Outstanding tutorial! Do it right the 1st time and never go back. My Dad's wise advice over 60 years ago. The homeowner before me simply put a wax ring down on a concrete/tile floor and then siliconed the toilet to the tile on a $600k house!!!! How frustrating on at least three levels!
As a 36 year residential repair plumber, it's obvious that most of the comments made are folks that have absolutely no clue about plumbing. Yes, prime, glue 100% of the time, replace flange instead of using lags or repair flanges, and GLOVES. Good job on the video!
How long did it take to drill those six holes. I just did a danco flange and could only drill 2 holes in a hour. I could not get through the concrete on the other 2 holes no matter what I did. It became a total mess.
The secret is to only show the footage of when everything goes perfect. Some of the people uploading videos like these do things wrong, then fix them off camera and are either too stupid, too lazy or too embarrassed to film themselves fixing it, so they show you the wrong way, but fix it and you will never get what they are doing to work unless you noticed they fixed it. When watching videos by DIYers, you have to know enough to be able to tell if the guy making the video knows what he is talking about or is a complete idiot. More often than not, they are complete idiots.
With Camera close up made it very easy to understand all the steps. I also liked how you removed the old flange, and put spacer. This is an excellent video. I like it when people like you make effort to explain every detail. I gave this video a rating of 100 out of 10. Yes exceptional, attention to detail, right camera angle.
@Steve Lopez true i usually dont wear gloves unless im tighting/loosing something next to concrete and have already nicked myself, but this is someones washroom and under there toilet at that
I,like the plumbing work you jut done, very clean flash to the floor well secured will stay in good 11conddition for long time to come. you are the man!!
Since this video is 3 yrs old, I'm curious to know how this flange replacement has held up since you sat the flange on top of that grout. I thought the flange might leak sitting on the grout like that. I appreciate you taking time to make the video.
Always wonder why installers glue the flange to the pipe. Water doesn't flow uphill, and the fit is already nice and tight. If you ever need to replace the flange you made a bigger job of getting it free.
Obviously you haven’t had to plunge a backed up toilet that had either a leaking wax ring or cracked flange. You glue it because it needs to be sealed to prevent any leaks at any point in the future. Not just because someone says so.
@@bobwills4420" brass" tank bolts that rot in 2 years . I'll pull a toilet with "Stainless steel " ring years later find rust all over it . Don't know if it's quality control or metals aren't what they say they are .
Then that wasn't stainless steel...and look at the bolts. If they have a green tinted that ain't brass...look for it to have a yellow tint. That's brass. Some are just brass coated...
IIRC it was 1/4” tap cons. 2 1/2” long. Bit size was 3/16”. When you buy the tap cons the package will say what size drill bit. Might even include the bit
Any cordless drill should be fine. The difference is the drill bit. You need a masonry drill bit. Home Depot will sell come concrete screws and the matching drill bit with it.
what is that brown colored compound you used on the cement over the cement ... on which the flange sits? Can i use that to cover up rotted wood? if not what would you suggest? Its hard to get in there and replace the wood so i am thinking of using a cement compoud that will allow me to drill holes and fix the flange on... Thoughts?
It's important to note that one should put some toilet paper down and just inside the waste opening to block it. Not just for blocking the sewer gases but also to prevent the pieces being cut off the old flange from falling into the eternal abyss, never to be recovered!
Great point. I actually had a grocery bag stuffed with several other grocery bags stuffed down into the pipe. As you mention it’s dual purpose. To keep gases from coming up. And to not loose pieces down the pipe as you cut away the old flange.
I got in a hurry once and forgot to pull the grocery store handle sack that had a couple of sheets of newspaper in it I remembered after about the third flush there was another toilet in the next stall and the one in the men's room the line opened up to six inch in the concrete floor i flushed all those toilets many times and urinals and had the vanity faucets wide open the bag made it out of the drain also the dish machine was in the other side of the wall I rant that as well as the pots and pans sink faucets it all happened in a restaurant before it opened for the day I was sweating it for sure
My plastic flange is a little warped, but not broken. I used a steel ring to reinforce it, but it was never screwed down. The flange rests on a tiled surface. How do I drill tile to screw the flange to the floor? Concrete under tile. I am concerned about breaking the tile by drilling and/or driving the screws.
The spacer is the old flange it goes over existing flange if main drain got broke during trying to break old flange loose you would have to bust up your tile and your concrete floor$$$ your either living right or a very lucky man not breaking your main drain line. If it works it works
Yes it is designed so it can go on top. I didn’t like having a join with the spacer on top to the flange. So I modified it and used it as a spacer to go under. Toilet now sits on the flange with the flange resting on floor height.
My old flange is not level. Off by mm . Would this work if I used more cement on the one side that is lower to make the flange sit even and not tilted.
I don’t think so. If the pipe in the floor is not level you won’t be able to glue on a flange without it not being level too. If it’s only off by a mm I’d use a neoprene ring instead of a wax ring.
It’s a solid surface for the flange to sit on as I glued it in. If I only filled with the sanded grout I could have inadvertently pushed the real flange too deep
Good job, no gloves would have been classic if he would have slipped in some shots of sandwich 🥪 gradually being eaten away laying in various positions on the floor as the work progressed🎉🎉❤❤😂
Man that one don't look healthy😂 I had to change 13 of these things in a hotel one time. Oh boy you can only imagine what it looked like under there. Yikes.
If the problem with the toilet is the flange is broken and the toilet moves but doesn't leak. Can I Tapcon the toilet to the floor rather than replace the flange?
Good question. I never really thought about it. If it were threaded, it may be difficult to remove still as in most cases you can’t get a hold on what’s below the floor. Could be finished basement or crawl space.
You should have used a heat gun , after making your first cut !!! The pipe glue will soften after you heat the flange and you can peel the old flange out .
Just watched your vid. Quite good info. Although you must have already tested positive for hep C. No plumber would work on a toilet flange with out latex gloves. PPE!
i do not know what glue you used but it took forever to set up, it looked like CPVC glue and not the clear or gray PVC cement and no primer, if you used the clear cxement with primer on 4" PVC pipe would not be moving in a couple of minutes for sure
I didn’t use it because I didn’t have any. And the pipe is in cement. It’s not moving. And the flange is also screwed down. It’s not moving. Also there are some studies that show no significant added strength when primer is used. Check the conclusion on this study www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
I actually like the idea of having the finished floor NOT underneath the flange so later if you want to remove it it's a piece of cake. Also some floors are FLOATING as well. The spacer idea is great.
Mine can't be glued- it's CAST IRON- and I used a screw in flange with rubber around it-- and it will NOT go flat- flush to the floor.. GUess I need to cut it out.. I can't drill into concrete.. NOT able to.. Barely was able to do the tank.. etc.. when I installed a bidet later.
I have a 3 inch abs and that flange looks too big. They sell one that fits inside but it wont sit flush because the 3 inch abs is flush with floor and the flange has extra thickness of about 1/8 inch right there and when i test fit toilet it is 1/8 from sitting flush to floor.
The flange is supposed to sit on the finished surface. This rarely happens because plumbers do the rough in plumbing before the floors are finished/tiled. Because of this, they make regular and thicker wax rings. Though lately I’ve used synthetic neoprene rings with great success.
Howdy CS444, ... Thanks Great instructional VIDEO my psuedo Son-In-Law is getting ready to Tackle a similar JOB & This might be a great PREPARATORY Video to see the OPTIONS ... I especially the SPACER used to bring the TOILET up to floor Level COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...
You could have just drilled some lag bolts and set the stool without all the trouble they even have closet flange that will attach the top of that one but I guess if you have the time and nothing else to do
that is why plubers get over $100 per hour, gfloves really only work just so good, wait till you work on stuff that is up to your elbow like a lift station i just did for the company i work for, i had to use a shovel to scoop off the crap on top before reaching in and i get paid less than $20 per hour, it is not a desk job or for wimps hahahaha
All good till wax johnny doughnut goes on. So archaic. All the glove freaks will have to handle tools, materials, themselves, the room, and then take the gloves off without getting something on their pretty hands. Use a wet vac and clean up everything first with disinfectant. The inside of the pipe and the sanding job wasn't clean.
The flange should sit on the finished floor. Rarely happens because the finished floor is never installed when plumbers do the rough in. Hence thicker wax rings.
I didn’t use it because I didn’t have any. And the pipe is in cement. It’s not moving. And the flange is also screwed down. It’s not moving. Also there are some studies that show no significant added strength when primer is used. Check the conclusion on this study www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
@@69-MinuteFix my understanding is this is a how to video. Maybe you should mention that you didn’t have primer, so that viewers could determine whether to spend the time and money to use it. I my experience a plumbing inspector doesn’t care that you didn’t have primer. You would fail inspection without it. See as a licensed master plumber I have to follow plumbing standards and codes. Nice job otherwise
@@69-MinuteFix thanks. I here from customers all the time “ I saw it on RUclips and they didn’t tell me to do that “. I firmly believe that RUclips viewers shut have to take an aptitude test. There would be a lot of “ here’s your sign “ moments. LOL
that angle stop you have on there is the biggest piece of junk ever made, i hope you change it out soon. the same one cause thousands of dollars in damage to my home.
Outstanding tutorial! Do it right the 1st time and never go back. My Dad's wise advice over 60 years ago. The homeowner before me simply put a wax ring down on a concrete/tile floor and then siliconed the toilet to the tile on a $600k house!!!! How frustrating on at least three levels!
Your dad was right . Go the extra mile first,and you won't get any leaks or call backs!
As a 36 year residential repair plumber, it's obvious that most of the comments made are folks that have absolutely no clue about plumbing. Yes, prime, glue 100% of the time, replace flange instead of using lags or repair flanges, and GLOVES. Good job on the video!
Thanks!
Do it nice or do it twice :)
How long did it take to drill those six holes. I just did a danco flange and could only drill 2 holes in a hour. I could not get through the concrete on the other 2 holes no matter what I did. It became a total mess.
Just used a masonry drill bit on a cordless drill. Wasn’t even a hammer drill. Each hole took less than a min im sure.
Amazing how easy you make this look! Great work. When I try crap like this all hell breaks loose. Your video gives me hope tho! Thanks
Thanks for the kind words!
maybe two pairs...
The secret is to only show the footage of when everything goes perfect.
Some of the people uploading videos like these do things wrong, then fix them off camera and are either too stupid, too lazy or too embarrassed to film themselves fixing it, so they show you the wrong way, but fix it and you will never get what they are doing to work unless you noticed they fixed it.
When watching videos by DIYers, you have to know enough to be able to tell if the guy making the video knows what he is talking about or is a complete idiot. More often than not, they are complete idiots.
With Camera close up made it very easy to understand all the steps. I also liked how you removed the old flange, and put spacer.
This is an excellent video. I like it when people like you make effort to explain every detail.
I gave this video a rating of 100 out of 10. Yes exceptional, attention to detail, right camera angle.
Thanks for the complements!
This video is top notch , thanks for detailed removal and replacement ! Hope I won’t need to use it 😂👍
Thanks!!!
👍🏼Nice! Got the job done. That’s all that matters.
Some helpful tips for the next one-
Gloves
Internal pipe cutter.
Use primer before glue
Let's all chip in and get this guy some gloves
Please don't be mean
Nah, a few nicks and callouses never hurt anybody. Lol.
Gloves = puss
@Steve Lopez true i usually dont wear gloves unless im tighting/loosing something next to concrete and have already nicked myself, but this is someones washroom and under there toilet at that
He's probably going right to the fridge next. Man put on some gloves!!
Thanks for the video. Working on this job now and needed a good idea.
I,like the plumbing work you jut done, very clean flash to the floor well secured will stay in good 11conddition for long time to come. you are the man!!
Since this video is 3 yrs old, I'm curious to know how this flange replacement has held up since you sat the flange on top of that grout. I thought the flange might leak sitting on the grout like that. I appreciate you taking time to make the video.
Rock solid. Cement floor so there’s no flex and no cracking grout. The flange sits on the spacer which is in the sanded grout.
Beautiful! This is exactly the help I needed.
This is the second one for the basement bat. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Always wonder why installers glue the flange to the pipe. Water doesn't flow uphill, and the fit is already nice and tight. If you ever need to replace the flange you made a bigger job of getting it free.
Obviously you haven’t had to plunge a backed up toilet that had either a leaking wax ring or cracked flange. You glue it because it needs to be sealed to prevent any leaks at any point in the future. Not just because someone says so.
Correct. Water potentially could be backed up and come back the other way.
Metal rings corrode sooooo fast that's why I don't use them but I always wished they made a spacer for underneath the new flange . Great Idea
That’s a valid point. But I’d think it would take a long time.
I use stainless steel. Code requires stainless no painted rings. Also stainless wood screws
@@bobwills4420" brass" tank bolts that rot in 2 years . I'll pull a toilet with "Stainless steel " ring years later find rust all over it . Don't know if it's quality control or metals aren't what they say they are .
@@torotheplumber3788 hey check out the bolts. I want them are steel with brass coating
Then that wasn't stainless steel...and look at the bolts. If they have a green tinted that ain't brass...look for it to have a yellow tint. That's brass. Some are just brass coated...
What SIZES ARE THE DRILL BIT & TAPCONS ?? You make it look easier than I'm finding it ?
IIRC it was 1/4” tap cons. 2 1/2” long.
Bit size was 3/16”.
When you buy the tap cons the package will say what size drill bit. Might even include the bit
Great video, what kind of light are you using? I can see it propped up on the side.
It’s an led work light from harbor freight
www.harborfreight.com/500-lumen-led-rechargeable-magnetic-handheld-foldable-slim-bar-work-light-59536.html
What kind of drill did you use? Can I use a regular cordless drill? That's all I have.
Any cordless drill should be fine. The difference is the drill bit. You need a masonry drill bit. Home Depot will sell come concrete screws and the matching drill bit with it.
Great job on the flange replacement why didn’t you use a primer before gluing the flange ?
No primer. It's going to leak.
If I had it I would have used it.
Lol dude 🤦🏻♂️
Plumber here from Canada. I've never seen yellow pvc glue, is that a thing? Yellow here is usually abs glue or cpvc.
@@fortunatedad7695 it’s all purpose Oatey.
www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-32-oz-Medium-Milky-All-Purpose-ABS-CPVC-PVC-Cement-30847/100345900
Finally, a plumber with a shop vac!!!
Yeah I use my bare hands when taking out an old flange too! 😳😂 Nice work though...
what is that brown colored compound you used on the cement over the cement ... on which the flange sits? Can i use that to cover up rotted wood? if not what would you suggest?
Its hard to get in there and replace the wood so i am thinking of using a cement compoud that will allow me to drill holes and fix the flange on... Thoughts?
It’s sanded grout. I don’t think it would make a good filler. Dries like cement and would crack on a wood floor I bet.
I needed this video a year ago,, better late than never!!!
Good job keep clean
Which glue you used?
Universal type good for PVC
Don't forget to wash your hands before you pick your nose or eat french fries.
For sure!
Lol I was thinking that the whole time… GLOVES
4 rules of plumbing:
1. Hot’s on the left.
2. Cold’s on the right.
3. Shit won’t run uphill.
4. Don’t bite your nails.
Nice work!
It's important to note that one should put some toilet paper down and just inside the waste opening to block it. Not just for blocking the sewer gases but also to prevent the pieces being cut off the old flange from falling into the eternal abyss, never to be recovered!
Great point.
I actually had a grocery bag stuffed with several other grocery bags stuffed down into the pipe. As you mention it’s dual purpose. To keep gases from coming up. And to not loose pieces down the pipe as you cut away the old flange.
I got in a hurry once and forgot to pull the grocery store handle sack that had a couple of sheets of newspaper in it I remembered after about the third flush there was another toilet in the next stall and the one in the men's room the line opened up to six inch in the concrete floor i flushed all those toilets many times and urinals and had the vanity faucets wide open the bag made it out of the drain also the dish machine was in the other side of the wall I rant that as well as the pots and pans sink faucets it all happened in a restaurant before it opened for the day I was sweating it for sure
My plastic flange is a little warped, but not broken. I used a steel ring to reinforce it, but it was never screwed down. The flange rests on a tiled surface. How do I drill tile to screw the flange to the floor? Concrete under tile. I am concerned about breaking the tile by drilling and/or driving the screws.
With a masonry drill bit it will work fine. Don’t need a hammer drill. Take your time. It won’t crack.
@@69-MinuteFix
What the video host replied is 100% correct.
Take your time when drilling through your tiles, a few drops of water helps too.
The spacer is the old flange it goes over existing flange if main drain got broke during trying to break old flange loose you would have to bust up your tile and your concrete floor$$$ your either living right or a very lucky man not breaking your main drain line. If it works it works
LOL...
The new flange will not fit down into the old one. It has to come out. So the old flange cannot be the spacer.
Why does it seem like that spacer is made to be installed on the top of the new flange? Is that wrong for me to think that?
Yes it is designed so it can go on top. I didn’t like having a join with the spacer on top to the flange. So I modified it and used it as a spacer to go under. Toilet now sits on the flange with the flange resting on floor height.
My old flange is not level. Off by mm . Would this work if I used more cement on the one side that is lower to make the flange sit even and not tilted.
I don’t think so. If the pipe in the floor is not level you won’t be able to glue on a flange without it not being level too.
If it’s only off by a mm I’d use a neoprene ring instead of a wax ring.
I just used JB Weld. It worked like a charm.
Good video! Thank you…
why put the plastic spacer in there rather than just filling with the brown stuff?
It’s a solid surface for the flange to sit on as I glued it in. If I only filled with the sanded grout I could have inadvertently pushed the real flange too deep
Did you change that outdated gate valve angle stop and rubber supply line too?
I did! Went with a 1/4 turn valve and a braided line.
Stuff and old Tshirt rag down hole,first,no clogged pipes,smaller cut segments,easier removal,hit with file on high spots,check fit!!!
Yes I had some grocery bags in the pipe to prevent things from going down.
Good job, no gloves would have been classic if he would have slipped in some shots of sandwich 🥪 gradually being eaten away laying in various positions on the floor as the work progressed🎉🎉❤❤😂
😂😂
A few days later he is wondering how he got pink eye.
Thanks for ur video useful information what type of cement do u put under the spacer ?
It’s sanded floor grout.
Good job my Friend
Man that one don't look healthy😂 I had to change 13 of these things in a hotel one time. Oh boy you can only imagine what it looked like under there. Yikes.
What's the name of the grout you used?....
It’s just sanded grout. Lowes or Home Depot will have it in many colors. It was left over from a tile repair.
@@69-MinuteFix Can you give me a link for the sanded grout you used?....
If the problem with the toilet is the flange is broken and the toilet moves but doesn't leak. Can I Tapcon the toilet to the floor rather than replace the flange?
That could buy you some time. But a correct repair would be to replace the flange.
Might finally have that project I gotta give in and buy the sawzall
Very good job.... What kind of putty, glue or cement type substance was that you put on before the flange?
He said it was floor grout to sink the closet flange spacer in.
Yup. Sanded tile grout.
Yes but do you do when you have a rotten steel flange and an iron pipe in concrete
They make repair rings that go right on the broken flange,if you don't want to replace the the old one.
Why are flanges glued vs threaded?
Good question. I never really thought about it.
If it were threaded, it may be difficult to remove still as in most cases you can’t get a hold on what’s below the floor. Could be finished basement or crawl space.
All purpose glue , not recommended . Thank you for vid 👍
You should have used a heat gun , after making your first cut !!! The pipe glue will soften after you heat the flange and you can peel the old flange out .
Good tip! Could potentially help someone who’s watching.
Thank you, sir.
Nice job
Good job..
why did you use primer before glue?
Are we supposed to glue it in????
Just watched your vid. Quite good info. Although you must have already tested positive for hep C. No plumber would work on a toilet flange with out latex gloves. PPE!
Just wash your hands.
And it was my house :)
All that you really needed was a spanner flange to repair it. Other than that,nice job.
i do not know what glue you used but it took forever to set up, it looked like CPVC glue and not the clear or gray PVC cement and no primer, if you used the clear cxement with primer on 4" PVC pipe would not be moving in a couple of minutes for sure
What size drill bit ?
5/32 I believe.
When you buy the tapcon screws the package will tell you what size bit is needed.
@@69-MinuteFix thanks so much!
No need to prime the PVC connections before gluing?
People will say it’s because it’s a dwv and there’s no pressure, but I always think sand prime and then glue
I didn’t use it because I didn’t have any.
And the pipe is in cement. It’s not moving.
And the flange is also screwed down. It’s not moving.
Also there are some studies that show no significant added strength when primer is used.
Check the conclusion on this study www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
amazing
Please tell me what is the purple material you add on the cement floor?
I guess it kinda does look a little purple. But it’s brown sanded tile floor grout
@@69-MinuteFix why grout instead of fast dry cement?
@@annalim3050 that would work too. I had grout left over so used that.
Do you have to glue it in if it slides into the pipe
Glue is a must.
It’s a chemical bond between the pipes and seal.
I actually like the idea of having the finished floor NOT underneath the flange so later if you want to remove it it's a piece of cake. Also some floors are FLOATING as well. The spacer idea is great.
Mine can't be glued- it's CAST IRON- and I used a screw in flange with rubber around it-- and it will NOT go flat- flush to the floor.. GUess I need to cut it out.. I can't drill into concrete.. NOT able to.. Barely was able to do the tank.. etc.. when I installed a bidet later.
Sometimes the pipe can break but not usually whe glued inside 4inch
I have a 3 inch abs and that flange looks too big. They sell one that fits inside but it wont sit flush because the 3 inch abs is flush with floor and the flange has extra thickness of about 1/8 inch right there and when i test fit toilet it is 1/8 from sitting flush to floor.
You could use a die grinder or dremel type tool to cut the 3” pipe down a little bit so your flange will sit lower.
Great job my man😀
Next time use a 3 inch hole saw with a drill
Good job
I was told that the flange could not go above the floor because the the wax could not go down. Your does not seem to have problem.
The flange is supposed to sit on the finished surface. This rarely happens because plumbers do the rough in plumbing before the floors are finished/tiled.
Because of this, they make regular and thicker wax rings.
Though lately I’ve used synthetic neoprene rings with great success.
I know a plumber who would double the wax rings when the flange height was flush with floor 😂 never leaked tho lol
no primer?
Thank You
Howdy CS444, ...
Thanks
Great instructional VIDEO
my psuedo Son-In-Law is getting ready to Tackle a similar JOB
&
This might be a great PREPARATORY Video to see the OPTIONS ...
I especially the SPACER used to bring the TOILET up to floor Level
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Thank you!
You could have just drilled some lag bolts and set the stool without all the trouble they even have closet flange that will attach the top of that one but I guess if you have the time and nothing else to do
He could have hired you to do it....
Closet flang is what I use and I am a carpenter it works great
You could of had that out in a few minutes if you used a ram bit
Next time for sure! I never knew what a ram bit was until I googled it just now.
Previous owner of my house did not remove the old flange. He/she put the new over the old the tould it 3/4 of an inch off the floor.
My plumber has set up ptrap here is it correct elbove would be better
DO NOT used Tapcons. They rust and or break. Use stainless hardware!
Let this guy get his own gloves he should know better he must not be a real plumber NASTY
Correct. I am not a plumber. Not that it’s any different but it was my house/toilet. There’s nothing caustic… just washed my hands after.
Cuanto se cobra x este trabajo
ty!
Looks good but man idk how you didn’t use gloves and touched everything 😅
that is why plubers get over $100 per hour, gfloves really only work just so good, wait till you work on stuff that is up to your elbow like a lift station i just did for the company i work for, i had to use a shovel to scoop off the crap on top before reaching in and i get paid less than $20 per hour, it is not a desk job or for wimps hahahaha
You did not secure inside the pipe .what if your tools fall down the pipe
I had rags in a plastic bag stuffed in it.
You guys make it harder than it really is,
All of you "Do It Yourself Video Guys" should wear gloves. Other than that, Nice Repair.
Just flush-cut out the broken flange and put a screw in the new flange. Don't need to chip the old flange out to break the main pipe.
How with out drive l cutting into tile
The new flange would not fit in if I didn’t remove the old flange.
LOL...
I would’ve used a multi tool
All good till wax johnny doughnut goes on. So archaic. All the glove freaks will have to handle tools, materials, themselves, the room, and then take the gloves off without getting something on their pretty hands. Use a wet vac and clean up everything first with disinfectant. The inside of the pipe and the sanding job wasn't clean.
so the bottom surface of flange flush with finished floor? top surface of flange above finished floor?
The flange should sit on the finished floor.
Rarely happens because the finished floor is never installed when plumbers do the rough in. Hence thicker wax rings.
Put a towel in the hole to catch the plastic pieces
Also requires primer
No it does not..
I didn’t use it because I didn’t have any.
And the pipe is in cement. It’s not moving.
And the flange is also screwed down. It’s not moving.
Also there are some studies that show no significant added strength when primer is used.
Check the conclusion on this study www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
@@69-MinuteFix my understanding is this is a how to video. Maybe you should mention that you didn’t have primer, so that viewers could determine whether to spend the time and money to use it. I my experience a plumbing inspector doesn’t care that you didn’t have primer. You would fail inspection without it. See as a licensed master plumber I have to follow plumbing standards and codes. Nice job otherwise
It’s more of a “how I did it” video. But your right.
@@69-MinuteFix thanks. I here from customers all the time “ I saw it on RUclips and they didn’t tell me to do that “. I firmly believe that RUclips viewers shut have to take an aptitude test. There would be a lot of “ here’s your sign “ moments. LOL
Very easy
I think I would redo that floor first . . .
No gloves to remove the flange!!!🙄🙄
that angle stop you have on there is the biggest piece of junk ever made, i hope you change it out soon. the same one cause thousands of dollars in damage to my home.
My landlord wants to renovict me so I just used a bunch of rubber glue 4 or 5 months lasting.
Why grout?
Just some added security for the spacer to stay in place
Are you a real plumber??
I am not
That's why you shouldn't use that cheap plastic vinyl in your bathroom floor
This floor is actually ceramic tile. Looks like wood.
Common sense is to wear any type of gloves when , working around any toilet
Including Parts . Wash your Hands after worth's !!!
what is 69 minute repairs I looked it up online I couldn't find anything