As a state licensed plumber with over 23yrs in the trade,i can tell you the easiest,CORRECT way to go about commode rough in/flange installation. When doing the rough-in on new construction use a 4 x 3 closet 90 and come up through the floor with 4 inch schedule 40 PVC. Your 4in commode Riser extending vertically from the 4 by 3 closet 90 should extend roughly of foot above where the Finish floor will be. Do not set the flange until the finished floor is complete at that point cut the 4-inch Riser flush with the finished floor using a Sawzall. Need a 4 x 3 closet flange and glue it inside of the 4-inch pipe. The key is to come up through the floor with 4 inch PVC and get the closet flange that glues tight inside of the 4-inch pipe in other words you're not gluing the flange over the pipe you're finding the 4 x 3 flange that fits inside of 4 inch. To repair a Flames that's already been installed too low they make individual PVC flange extension rings that using a long set of closet bolts you seal down to the original flange that's too low bring it above grade. The product advertised in this RUclips video chokes down the flange by using a type of spigot flange. Absolutely do not use this product as it will choke down your commode flange at least one pipe size causing things to get hung up
What you said works just fine. However, the plumbing code, where I live clearly states that drainage piping shall NEVER be down sized. ( I know that there are exceptions to every rule ) They now make 3" cheater flanges that fit inside the 3" ABS pipe. Yes ,I know this is against code as well, in most areas but it is the same idea as what you do and the WC only has a 2" trap so I don`t see it as a big deal. It`s quick, does a neat job and works just fine. There are more than just one way that works.
Steven L Emerson the 4x3closet 90 is the only fitting where this reduction in drain piping is allowed. In reality it's not much reduction ,just one way I was taught to rough in . Inspectors have always approved. Good luck to all.
Thanks for this info. I'm going to be renovating a house built in the 40s where they jammed a toilet into a 23" alcove & wet-vented the shower through the lavatory (and the lav was s-trapped)-- oh, and they have an ABS 90 elbow glued to PVC. Basically, it's a nightmare and I'm gutting it. The tip of putting the pipe up above the floor and cutting sounds like a very good idea. I plan to install vinyl sheet so there won't be much difference in height, but I can set the flange on top of it so if there are any leaks it will hopefully not go under the vinyl.
This comment above all others makes the most sense. You're cutting the pipe to fit anyway, leave extra until the work is done and you are absolutely sure what you're working with. Then trim to fit. Sure wish my contractor did that when replaced the subflooring in my place. After 6 months of use I found out yesterday the damned toilet has been leaking after spending $10K to replace subflooring and do bathroom rennovation. I mean w the absolute f man?
You exactly right the flange should be on top of the finish floor. I’m in the plumbing business for over 30 years, and we always install our flanges on top of the finish floor, our proven method is to stub up through the floor with 4” pvc , if the branch piping is 3” we use a 3 x 4 closet 90 to stub up 4” then we tell the GC to tile up to the 4” pipe. When we trim out the toilet we cut the 4” pvc flush with the finish floor and use a 3 x 4 pvc closet flange that glues into the 4” pipe and screw it down to the finish floor. I know most plumbers want to slap the closet collar down on the rough and be done with it but my method may take a bit longer on the trim but it’s worth the peace of mind we’re doing it right.
I make wood donuts out of pressure treated plywood. The O.D. of the donut is flush with the O.D. of the flange. As long as you know what the finish floor will be, you'll know what height the donut should be (plywood thickness). Literally, the piece of wood is cut the shape of a donut. Trace plywood with flange. Find the center of your traced circle. Use proper holes saw size so pipe side of flange fits through donut. Cut the outside traced circle with a circular saw, (if you're good), jig saw if you're not. Place flange on top of donut. Screw flange and donut to sub floor. Cement board and tile up to flange. Flange perfectly set at the rough stage.
not if you have a floating floor you cant...and most people today have those...waterproof pergo, laminate etc. its needs to be able to move...also, many times it will void the warranty on the floor
I've read through some of these comments so I would like to weigh in. The set right system is nice but I don't like the reduction of the 3" to less than a 2 1/2" either. It's a problem just like the offset flanges are a problem, especially on commercial toilets and air-tank flush units. So what to do? You can use their spacers and a 3" flange plate. Or you can be a skilled plumber and use an inside pipe cutter and a coupling to bring up the flange on where it needs to be. Some type of waterproofing on the subfloor is a good idea like an adhesive caulk like Phenoseal on second floor bathrooms. Using the rubber type flange seals is a better idea than the wax rings. They make removing the toilet again easier. Fluidmaster is a good one. Don't use wax rings with the plastic horn. The horn eventually gets cocked inside the flange and obstructs the waste being flushed. Caulking a toilet down is ok for appearance and a good finished look, just don't caulk around the back. Leave that open if there ever is a problem with a leak. Always level the toilet. Always check to make sure toilet doesn't wobble. Always proof your work.
On Toto's they say NEVER to use a wax ring with a plastic horn....it interferes with how they flush. As far as this Set-Rite system works, how are you supposed to drive in your hold-down bolts if they hit the metal flange underneath or an existing screw? I think it's a lot of bother when the best method is to use a purpose-built inside plastic cutter of the correct size and start over. It's UPC to seal the toilet to the floor for sanitation (males) reasons. However, you're allowed to leave the back uncaulked as you say for evidence of a future leak. I always roughed in with a cover pipe ....usually the next size. Put a test plug in the stub pipe for a water test. If the cover pipe was sized correctly, just remove, cut your stub internally, and glue on your flange. I think it's crazy stupid to set a flange on a subfloor.
I used this product on one tile job. Got called back because toilet kept clogging. The problem with this is that it reduced the pipe opening in a 3” pipe to under 2.5”. Clog city. I wouldn’t recommend stacking up a bunch of wax rings either. The best and easiest solution are the stackable pvc spacers at most big box stores. Just stack them until you are just above the floor level, add a Bead of silicone between spacers and flange and you’re good to go. No reduction in pipe size, no splash back, no leaks.
I hate products like these. Totally disregard code. If he can sell this shit I should be able to run 2" to a toilet. I can't so he shouldn't be able too either
I’m calling B S 😂 you did something wrong. I’ve used this product and others like it, hundreds of times. The reduced ID of the flange, will not impede the flow, if used correctly. If you are having a clogging problem, it was either installed wrong, or there is a blockage in the toilet or the line. The reduced ID is still bigger or the same size as the outlet in a toilet.
@@sativa2050 I myself would not call BS , the yellow insert is too small for some toilets , Mansfield would probably work but not so sure about American Standard Champion . Also some very old toilets can have a 3 inch Bombay
Important side note. Do not caulk around your toilet. If it leaks you want to know. Most times it will show under toilet or discolouration around linoleum, not so much on tile, but if flange was put on the flooring it would. Reason why you want to see it leak is to know when to change it. If not knowing it usually rots floor before showing up on ceiling below. Not always but mostly. Just 45 yrs of plumbing that I have experienced.
Down here in Florida you definitely want to caulk underneath or even grout if you want. Whatever color your toilet is-that’s the silicone caulk or grout color you’ll use. I’ve even mixed some latex caulk with white grout to make the grout more flexible when dry. You want to caulk/silicone/grout to hide shims if you ended up needing them. Plus you don’t want nasty water that overflowed toilet to get under there and rot. You don’t want your wax ring to eventually go bad and cockroaches come up from sewer and escape into house. Plus you’d be surprised how much guys miss or the backsplash gets on floor then the floor gets mopped and the urine on floor keeps getting swished under toilet. Most of the time if it’s grouted you can see discolored grout if it’s leaking underneath. Rotting under toilet does come from overflowing toilets too-not just from a bad wax ring. Even if caulked or grouted it can still get under there thru those or even thru grout on tile then it runs under tile. Once water is under there it takes forever for it to dry anyway. Even if a wax ring goes bad it’s easier to tell it’s bad if the toilet is sealed with caulk/grout. Why you ask? Because it makes an echo chamber. The water flushing will get loud and you’ll hear it gurgle it’s way down and echo under toilet. An experienced plumber can tell either way but for you DIYers, Homeowners or handymen-just flush the toilet and you can hear the flush being loud. If you’re a home owner and you’re noticing the flush is getting louder and louder then it’s a bad wax ring. Even if you don’t caulk or grout under toilet it doesn’t mean if you have a bad wax ring it will come out underneath right away. Water finds the lowest spot and this is where the toilet flange in floor is so the water will go there first and then go down around outside of sewer pipe, go underneath would or laminate floors and yes even go under tile floor and travel even feet away until it has a spot to come up that’s down hill from the toilet. Sorry for a long babbling comment so I’ll leave homeowners,DIYers and handymen a tip. Whenever using caulk/silicone get your self a can of Denatured alcohol and an empty spray bottle with mist spray. Denatured is just like rubbing alcohol but it doesn’t evaporate so fast & is weaker-it won’t hurt anything . You can do this trick on anything-around windows,toilets, baseboards,crown molding, trim, shower,tub, countertops ,bath/shower fixtures, anywhere. Apply your caulk with your caulk gun and then before using your finger mist the whole line of the caulk/silicone with the Denatured alcohol. Now run your finger to smooth it. The Denatured alcohol will prevent any caulk from sticking to either side of your caulk line & you-it’s almost like you put tape on the wall. It will leave you with a professional caulk line if you’re not good at caulking. I hope i just saved the world and many showers, windows, countertops from actually leaking from incorrect caulking.
@@Eejtalk Covering the front and leaving it open in the back means you will never notice the leak until it gets really bad. Better to just smack your boys upside the head until they stop peeing all over the floor.
well explained, i love the display showing the flange sitting either below or above the floor. In my case when I replaced the tile my flange now sat below the floor. I am going to check out your product line.
It would be a good ideas to put some sort of durable spacer in with closet flanges so when we install them we have a good option to install the flange before trim out. I bet that would sell. I’m a plumber and I’d buy it. I can already imagine a kettle flyer and demo on a plumbing supply counter. “Never have a sunken flange again!”
Thanks! I might need to use something like this . The old toilet was installed with an improvised extension (wood, with plastic/caulking; cemented to the old toilet). This looks to be a cleaner and better solution.
At 2:50, I think he meant to say "first thing you're gonna do is remove the screws that are currently holding the old closet flange to the subfloor." THEN put the gasket in...etc.
I'm a very green maintenance tech for an apartment complex. I'm happy to do learning and researching on my own and I'm finding that my supervisor doesn't know as much as he thinks. When teaching me about placement of the flange he said to make the top of it flush with the floor. I think im starting to see why so many of the buildings seem to have issues with leaking flanges if he's been putting them too low and not correcting that when we find them low. And the supervisor before him would just stack wax rings 3-4 high on top of a cracked flange instead of actually installing a new flange. So I think I have my work cut out for me, but atleast I know how to go about correcting and fixing the issues properly now
It sounds like the boss never thinks about the best quality repair; he just wants to get it done. Keep doing what you're doing, think it through, and do it right. I have a lot of issues with hiring people to repair my house because they too often do something fast and cheap that pisses me off. As the building super, you're not paid to rush!
This is well worth watching just to understand why the heck this toilet is crooked. Physically or mechanically I instantly get -- but how?/why?/who?/when ?? Timeline drama. Pathetic.
Overlooked one potential problem. Your Johnny bolts need to be set through the first flange or when you snug up the nuts a gap well form between the two flanges and possibly allow sewer gas to escape. Also that system reduces the inside diameter of the flange. Not good for really big poo poo. Instead ,clean the heck out of the existing flange apply a thick bead of glue/sealent to a traditional spacer ring screw down at 4 points. PS. Use extra long Johnny bolts and trim to proper hight after setting toilet. Silicone base of toilet last.
They want you to remove the old Johnny bolts. Place their spacer and flange on top. And screw their six screws through and down into the sub floor. These screws will prevent gapping. Then with the secured top, Johnny bolt from there up into toilet, with wax or other gasket. If you want to keep your old Johnny bolts for some reason. Then this kit would be a waste, as you’re buying a whole lot of parts for one spacer and a gasket. I’m writing this as I breath in raw sewage so some details might be grammatically awkward lol
You do know that all the piping in a toilet is less than 3” right? So matching the diameter of the toilet outlet with the flange, is not that big of a deal. If the clog is big enough to stop at the flange, it is big enough to stop inside the toilet. This reduced opening will not make a difference in clogging. I’ve installed hundreds of reduced flanges into cast iron waste pipes. Meaning the iron pipe is 4-6 inches and I installed an expansion flange with a 3” opening. I’ve never had an issue with increased clogging.
99% of the time when a toilet clogs, it is the toilet that is clogging, not waste in the waste line. Has nothing to do with the flange. Also, the system described in the video is fastened down with screws, so there will be no gaps between the spacers and their flange, especially if you silicone between them.
I want to thank you for your expertise your knowledge and your content what a great RUclips video certainly helped me immensely thank you and bless you
What do you do in most cases when there’s nothing to grab into...everything is lose...leak away....or if the sub floor is concrete..just wondering...can you use extended Johnny bolts to secure everything...seems to make more sense...
SALES PITCH WARNING!!! First off, anyone who uses the metal or plastic swivel flange is using inferior products. Second, never use the adjustable slots. Use the notches that are on the white plastic flange. They are stronger. Anyone who has spent any time doing new construction and service work Ought to know this. And third, anyone who does not know how to seal a toilet when the flange is screwed to the subfloor is not a plumber. The flange is made to be put in on the rough and screwed to the subfloor. It’s been that way since Plumbing began. And if your “Plumber“ doesn’t know how to set a toilet without it leaking, he is not a plumber. This is just a sales pitch for someone to sell a product that they came up with. Just one more thing to buy. I’m not saying it’s a bad or a good idea. But the floor depth and flange height are greatly exaggerated in this video. And to the commenters who say not to screw it to the subfloor and that it is not code, you don’t have a clue what you’re talking about.
We would cut either copper or cpvc spacers. And the GC always knew to tell the flooring guys or tile guys to remove the screws install the flooring under the lip of the flange. The come trim time we drilled our holes and secured the flange.
Every time I roughed in a toilet for a new house or job I would ask the tile guy or carpenter what is going to be the finished height of the floor is it going to be a 1/2" or 3/4" higher etc. And most qualified plumbers do that !! Anyone who screws a toilet flange down to the sub floor does not know what they're doing . With that said every now and then you come across some rubegolberg or do it yourselfers, that tried to save some money ..... I think this is a great fix for that .... Nice !, but your premise is wrong that plumbers screw the flange down to the subfloors it's not code .
If the new owner comes in and decides to change the floor for something different, they’re stuck with whatever thickness of flooring (or thicker) is down unless they want to shim the toilet. That’s why you put the flange on the slab. He’s trying to sell a product that can be overcome with an extra high wax ring.
flange needs installed at rough, back in my production days we would do 10 to 25 houses at a time they werent sold or if they were who cares you aind going to know the flooring. go ask a carpenter give me break he dont speak english any how. Ive literaly screwed hundreds of them dow to the plywood floor. So no your premise is wrong your talking custom homes and Im talking hundreds of homes. yea yea in a perfect world you find out finish floor.
Jeff Y .. paaalease ... really you don’t talk to the other contractors?.. I’ve done thousands maybe 1, or two there wasn’t anyone around .. in that case you know their going to put in a floor most likely tile, so you automatically rough it in a 1/4-1/2” anyway ... check your code Einstein..
The flange is between 1/4 and 3/8 for a pvc flange. I completely ignore metal flanges because they are junk. Anyone who has done service work knows this. I’ve been doing it for 30 years and my first 20 years I probably did 300 houses a year in new construction. A tile floor is approximately 1/2 to 5/8 inch thick. A regular wax ring is plenty to fill this gap. And if one is in doubt you can get an extra thick wax ring or double it. This video is just a sales pitch. That’s all it is. Trying to cause worry When there shouldn’t be any.
I am renovating two bathrooms on a 2nd floor townhouse where I had installed this product approx. six (6) years ago and when I removed the toilets today, I found the two-flange extender. I highly recommend this product as it worked perfectly for me. I never had any clogging or any flushing issues, if anything these two toilets have been the most reliable out off all my rental units.
We put ceramic tile in our bathrooms and had three different plumbers in and I don’t think any of them have done it right! I found your video by accident and I’m glad that I did!
So since I have to remove our broken flange and replace and have decided to install backerboard and tile I should install the new flange AFTER completing the floor tile?
Greetings all! What should the measurement be between the finished floor and the top of the flange? Or said differently, how high should the flange be above the floor? Thanks for your time!
Im having this low closet flange issue with a macerating up-flow toilet. The thing has a basin the poo goes into which has the flange built in it.. so for one i cant drill any screws into the flange because the tank must remaim sealed. However after the subfloor, leveler, backer board, tile i have almost 2 inches i need the flange to be at. Under the basin is a concrete floor.. the only thing i can think to do is to stack spacers in between with silly cones in between each pvc spacer then wax ring on top.. i still have to get some super long bolts that will work to go from that bottom flange all the way through the pooper.. thats like a 4” bolt at least..
I replaced my toilets a couple years ago and in the one bathroom they have the abs/pvc black flange just like this about 1/4 inch below floor. I did a bunch of research and professional plumbers were saying to double two wax rings. This year The toilet started clogging easy. I removed the toilet and found the kids had flushed a plastic flosser and it was in the outlet of the toilet. It had baby wipes also stuck on it and that is why I was having to plunge it recently. Well I think somehow when I used my heavy duty t-handle bazooka plunger I caused the wax seal to fail. Floor was wet and particle board on top of subfloor was soaked and expanded. So now it needs a new floor, new wood, new flange extender kit. If I had just installed this kit in the first place this damage and new floor would not be necessary most likely.
This is what I am curious about! Different plumbers say different things. Some say use spacers, some say double up the wax rings, so say don't just stack them but blend them, some say don't do that at all. UGH. What is the best way?
Im a plumber of 25 years and no not all flanges should be installed on top of floor....reason ? Some cheaper toilets and even a few quality toilets have very shallow bases and will sit on the flange causing it to rock..... there is no issue with installing the flange on sub floor.
Great video.Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material.
Call me a glutton for punishment, but every remodel I've done I cut the flange out and put a new one at the correct height. I also screw them down. So many people don't for whatever reason. Even on concrete slabs, I do it. Grout the toilet if on tile or concrete, caulk if on sheet vinyl or plywood. I'm not a plumber but I've been taught by two and I've changed out a bunch of toilets over the years. I don't like gimmicky wax rings either. Just your plain jane wax ring. I've tried others and regretted it. My two cents. If you're a pro, I'm open to criticism for my own learning. Thanks.
I took the first measurement at 3 o'clock and the second measurement at 9 o'clock. That's all well and good, but I think it's entirely unreasonable to have to wait 6 hours between measurements! This project took all day! 😉😏
Unless you have the toilet in your hands and you can physically see the bottom of the toilet. DO NOT set flange on top of finished surface. There are so many toilet makers now and zero regulations on how far the toilet waste discharge opening is set above the surface of the bottom of the toilet. Meaning, if you flip over new or old toilets. and put a straight edge from mounting bolt to bolt. The bottom of of the toilet that actually touches the floor and the bottom of the toilet that discharges waste can vary from 1/4" to 5/8" higher than the floor surface. So when you set your 3/8 thick pvc toilet flange on top of the tile surface and you bought a cheap toilet that the waste discharge is only 1/4" above the finished surface, your screwed to say the least. Now you get to be one of those people that have a toilet with 1/2" of caulk under it, sitting on a pile of shims. Thats also why toilets flanges are screwed to the subfloor.
You are absolutely right. I've installed American Standard and Kohler and both required that the flange be flush with the floor... or very close to flush. Below the finished floor might be a problem at times but flush works very well.
It does reduce the ID but it will not affect flow. The siphon tube in the toilet is the same size or smaller than the reduced flange ID. I’ve never had an issue with reduced flanges.
I'm having three new toilets installed (replacing old ones) and have hired a plumber to do it. I am an engineer and no doubt could do the "work" but because I know the value of industry/trade knowledge vs "DIY" knowledge, I feel better paying now and not 10x more later to fix my mistake. Even if I didn't make a mistake, I'd be watching it for years just knowing I did.
My 60 years of plumbing experience disagrees! You want the closet ring flush with the finish floor, so as to give expansion cushion to the wax! (Too thin, no flex]! You should always use a 110 [felt or neoprene lined wax ring, [for wall mount W.C.'s] When setting the bowl Ya wana feel the wax squish a bit!
The flange on the front left is not a lead bend, it is a brass flange ring which your wipe a lead bend to. I can see where a lead bend was cut off at some point. I have wiped the brass ring to lead in the past. Yes I've been a plumber for a long time. before we even had plastic pipe.....
Clogged toilet waiting to happen. This reduces the diameter of the hole. I've set hundreds of toilets on flanges below the finished floor without issue. Put in a wax ring w/horn, extra thick if needed, in the flange to have the wax around 3/4" above the finished floor so the bottom flange (hole) of the toilet fits in it and the 1/2" gap outside of that hole under the toilet pushes down on the wax to make the seal. They make wax rings w/o the horn so you can stack one on top of the first if needed, and smear the wax together to make it one taller wax ring to meet the toilet when setting it. Use 2 washers and nuts to secure the toilet bolts (3 & 9 o'clock) to the flange before setting. Add your wax ring(s) onto the flange. Slowly guide toilet over the two bolts and lower evenly with floor. You'll feel the toilet meet the wax ring and slowly smash the wax before the toilet's perimeter sets on the floor, then you know you have a seal. Shim toilet if floor or casting is uneven so no wobble. Snug toilet to bolts, fill and test. Those plastic wax rings they sell are junk, have followed homeowners installing them and had leaking problems. Why you would reduce the closet bend opening by a pipe size rather than add a wax ring is beyond me?
I'm currently in the process of dealing with a bad leak because another unlicensed "plumber" did exactly what you are describing, after having new tile installed. I saw the whole thing, asked questions, etc. He said he'd done "a bunch" this way, and "it'll be fine". It was, for about a year and a half. Lot's of damage; follow code.
You can use cement screw anchors with the stainless screws. I always use weather tight tapcons. Never had any corrosion issues with them. Much easier to place the flange, drill the holes and zip in some tapcons. Versus put the flange, mark holes, remove flange, drill over sized holes, put in anchors, put flange in, hope the holes line up, then screw in screws.
I hate this kit. the spacers aren't 7 inches in diameter like a standard flange would be there too big around, and the yellow flange with that tail piece cuts off volume flow (chokes it down). Every time our sales dept( LOWES) supplies this, i opt to just stack the standard stackable flange adapters that are white and are 7 inches standard in dia, i just smear wax rings in between the flanges and compress. Everybodys got to reinvent the wheel. My wheels been rolling for 30 years doing tile floors and remodeling. Flush this kit. go back to the white pvc flange stackers that have worked forever.
Great video. Can you state the actual purpose of the wax ring? Since the underside of the flange pipe isn’t pressurized, (open to atmosphere), if the wax seal leaks, is it leaking from between the toilet funnel and wax ring, or the bottom of the wax ring and top of the flange. I would think it’s between the toilet funnel itself, and the wax seal against that porcelain funnel, since this is the only pressure, although very small.
Also ..... Think about when the toilet gets blocked and the water is reversing direction. Wax rings , as proven as they are, are less friendly, especially on a floor with a flange that's not high enough to begin with. Whatever system you devise, you've got to think about the plunging situation and will the system hold in reverse ! 🤔
you can also look into using a closet flange support bracket. I've got a video on how to install it on my channel, it's really simple and prevents rotting floor and toilet wobbling.
Real plummer's do the job right, the problem is when people install tile the tile guy doesn't put a flange extender on, over time the toilet leaks and the plywood gets rotted and maybe a floor joist, then you're out of a bathroom and a lot of money.
I’ve done a lot of building maintenance in my life and never have I ever seen a toilet flange sitting 1/2” to 3/4” below the floor. every flange I’ve seen has been level with the floor once a friend asked me to look at a toilet in a bathroom being remodeled And his toilet did not touch the floor at all. I removed the toilet from the flange and found the flange was on top of the floor I told him to remove the flooring under the flange, remove the flange and install a new flange level with the floor his toilet now sits level on the floor and functions properly.
Any good plumber that is plumbing a new house will find out what the floor is made out of and install properly. If later on down the road someone changes the floor then you will require a riser of some sort.
I've done both plumbing construction and service work, and I had one Apt Complex that when rough-in they must of thought the floor would be higher, all done with copper DWV, and anytime I would pull or replace a toilet, I would fight a high closet flange, had to shim the toilets more then once, in this case I rather had the toilet flange below the finish floor ,
One thing I don't get it when he says to screw it on to the floor , I've seen others installing toilets videos and I don't see them screwing on the floor . They only only use the the fitting sleeves add glue on it ad the wax ring and then place down the toilet on it then they they secure the same toilet with the screws coming up from the underneath the flange....🇨🇦🇨🇦
I set my flange on top of the tile then wax ring but it's still leak from overflow. I've done a few toilet but never had any issues. What did I do wrong?
Do you have a version that doesn't so significantly restrict the inner diameter of the final pipe? Seems unnecessary to drop all the way down to 3". Could cause a clog at the flange location which would expose the flange to high pressures when plunged.
I put my flanges directly on top of the Hardi backer board. Once the tile is installed, you'll usually have an 1/8 above the floor with your flange which is perfectly fine. If you use a material like marble which is most of the time a little thicker than tile, just shim the flange by loosening the screws and thin setting under the flange. There is always a little room for adjustments. Might have to adjust a support in basement or crawl space. This is another reason why the best scenario is knowing all your materials you're using way ahead of time from beginning to end.
Hardie backer isn't waterproof. Having any type of subfloor exposed under the flange is not the best way. Stubbing up the pipe and capping it off on rough in is the best way to go.
This looks awesome. I like that there’s an actual gasket between the flange and the spacer. The other brand of spacers don’t have a gasket. But what if the flange is on a a concrete slab? Do you have anything for that? Thank you again, I truly cannot wait to try your product on the next job that requires a higher flange.
Previous owners had tiled the bathrooms themselves. I noticed cracks in the toilet and decided to replace it. Removed old toilet and the flange is flush with the tiles. I put the new toilet on and there is a 1/4 inch gao in the front of toilet. If i get this will it fix that problem
4" Abs fitting accepts 4" pipe which accepts 3" fitting which accepts 3" pipe. You get in a closet ring JAM build your way out by cutting different pieces from different fittings and pipe.
Finally! Someone tells people how a flange is supposed to be. 3/8" proud of the finished floor. There's a horn on a toilet. That horn must be inside the flange! I have been a plumber for 41 years and today is the last day. In that time I have never used a bowl wax with a plastic sleeve. I have never used 2 bowl waxes. If the inspector wants to see the flange on top out, fine. Cut pieces of soft copper the thickness of the finished floor and put your brass or stainless screws through those. It's not rocket science. Jesus wept. It's a certainty that the floor will be ruined if the flange is not at the proper height.
richard wysham it is a shame that most new plumbers today and tile setters don't understand how a toilet flange is to be installed. Whenever I meet a new contractor they laugh and say they never have seen a Flange mounted on top of the tile. So frustrating. And same here on my jobs I never use a deep wax and double wax is just stupid.
the flange is supposed to be level with the finished floor. ask the flooring guys what the dimension of the flooring material will be and then set the flange to that height. pretty simple
one problem these days is, if you have a floating floor in your bathroom, you can set the flange on the floor because you cant screw through the finished floor...it needs to expand and contract
Why wouldn't you install the 4in drain tall, cap it off till trim out and install the flange at the same time you install the toilet, which would be after the finished floor is done..
As a state licensed plumber with over 23yrs in the trade,i can tell you the easiest,CORRECT way to go about commode rough in/flange installation. When doing the rough-in on new construction use a 4 x 3 closet 90 and come up through the floor with 4 inch schedule 40 PVC. Your 4in commode Riser extending vertically from the 4 by 3 closet 90 should extend roughly of foot above where the Finish floor will be. Do not set the flange until the finished floor is complete at that point cut the 4-inch Riser flush with the finished floor using a Sawzall. Need a 4 x 3 closet flange and glue it inside of the 4-inch pipe. The key is to come up through the floor with 4 inch PVC and get the closet flange that glues tight inside of the 4-inch pipe in other words you're not gluing the flange over the pipe you're finding the 4 x 3 flange that fits inside of 4 inch. To repair a Flames that's already been installed too low they make individual PVC flange extension rings that using a long set of closet bolts you seal down to the original flange that's too low bring it above grade. The product advertised in this RUclips video chokes down the flange by using a type of spigot flange. Absolutely do not use this product as it will choke down your commode flange at least one pipe size causing things to get hung up
What you said works just fine. However, the plumbing code, where I live clearly states that drainage piping shall NEVER be down sized. ( I know that there are exceptions to every rule ) They now make 3" cheater flanges that fit inside the 3" ABS pipe. Yes ,I know this is against code as well, in most areas but it is the same idea as what you do and the WC only has a 2" trap so I don`t see it as a big deal. It`s quick, does a neat job and works just fine. There are more than just one way that works.
Steven L Emerson the 4x3closet 90 is the only fitting where this reduction in drain piping is allowed. In reality it's not much reduction ,just one way I was taught to rough in . Inspectors have always approved. Good luck to all.
bingo! You nailed it
Thanks for this info. I'm going to be renovating a house built in the 40s where they jammed a toilet into a 23" alcove & wet-vented the shower through the lavatory (and the lav was s-trapped)-- oh, and they have an ABS 90 elbow glued to PVC. Basically, it's a nightmare and I'm gutting it. The tip of putting the pipe up above the floor and cutting sounds like a very good idea. I plan to install vinyl sheet so there won't be much difference in height, but I can set the flange on top of it so if there are any leaks it will hopefully not go under the vinyl.
This comment above all others makes the most sense. You're cutting the pipe to fit anyway, leave extra until the work is done and you are absolutely sure what you're working with. Then trim to fit. Sure wish my contractor did that when replaced the subflooring in my place. After 6 months of use I found out yesterday the damned toilet has been leaking after spending $10K to replace subflooring and do bathroom rennovation. I mean w the absolute f man?
You exactly right the flange should be on top of the finish floor.
I’m in the plumbing business for over 30 years, and we always install our flanges on top of the finish floor, our proven method is to stub up through the floor with 4” pvc , if the branch piping is 3” we use a 3 x 4 closet 90 to stub up 4” then we tell the GC to tile up to the 4” pipe. When we trim out the toilet we cut the 4” pvc flush with the finish floor and use a 3 x 4 pvc closet flange that glues into the 4” pipe and screw it down to the finish floor. I know most plumbers want to slap the closet collar down on the rough and be done with it but my method may take a bit longer on the trim but it’s worth the peace of mind we’re doing it right.
What if the toilet doesn't sit flush with the floor do I get smaller flange? Or cut down into floor p.s I have no idea what I'm doing lol
Finally someone who knows what they’re talking about, I’m 44 years in the business
I make wood donuts out of pressure treated plywood. The O.D. of the donut is flush with the O.D. of the flange. As long as you know what the finish floor will be, you'll know what height the donut should be (plywood thickness). Literally, the piece of wood is cut the shape of a donut. Trace plywood with flange. Find the center of your traced circle. Use proper holes saw size so pipe side of flange fits through donut. Cut the outside traced circle with a circular saw, (if you're good), jig saw if you're not. Place flange on top of donut. Screw flange and donut to sub floor. Cement board and tile up to flange. Flange perfectly set at the rough stage.
not if you have a floating floor you cant...and most people today have those...waterproof pergo, laminate etc. its needs to be able to move...also, many times it will void the warranty on the floor
I’m doing this same technique with the excel of the 4x3 Closet 90.
I've read through some of these comments so I would like to weigh in. The set right system is nice but I don't like the reduction of the 3" to less than a 2 1/2" either. It's a problem just like the offset flanges are a problem, especially on commercial toilets and air-tank flush units. So what to do? You can use their spacers and a 3" flange plate. Or you can be a skilled plumber and use an inside pipe cutter and a coupling to bring up the flange on where it needs to be. Some type of waterproofing on the subfloor is a good idea like an adhesive caulk like Phenoseal on second floor bathrooms. Using the rubber type flange seals is a better idea than the wax rings. They make removing the toilet again easier. Fluidmaster is a good one. Don't use wax rings with the plastic horn. The horn eventually gets cocked inside the flange and obstructs the waste being flushed. Caulking a toilet down is ok for appearance and a good finished look, just don't caulk around the back. Leave that open if there ever is a problem with a leak. Always level the toilet. Always check to make sure toilet doesn't wobble. Always proof your work.
On Toto's they say NEVER to use a wax ring with a plastic horn....it interferes with how they flush. As far as this Set-Rite system works, how are you supposed to drive in your hold-down bolts if they hit the metal flange underneath or an existing screw? I think it's a lot of bother when the best method is to use a purpose-built inside plastic cutter of the correct size and start over. It's UPC to seal the toilet to the floor for sanitation (males) reasons. However, you're allowed to leave the back uncaulked as you say for evidence of a future leak. I always roughed in with a cover pipe ....usually the next size. Put a test plug in the stub pipe for a water test. If the cover pipe was sized correctly, just remove, cut your stub internally, and glue on your flange. I think it's crazy stupid to set a flange on a subfloor.
I used this product on one tile job. Got called back because toilet kept clogging. The problem with this is that it reduced the pipe opening in a 3” pipe to under 2.5”. Clog city. I wouldn’t recommend stacking up a bunch of wax rings either. The best and easiest solution are the stackable pvc spacers at most big box stores. Just stack them until you are just above the floor level, add a Bead of silicone between spacers and flange and you’re good to go. No reduction in pipe size, no splash back, no leaks.
I hate products like these. Totally disregard code. If he can sell this shit I should be able to run 2" to a toilet. I can't so he shouldn't be able too either
I see that being a problem. Can that gasket be trimmed on the inside to correct opening size?
"Good to go". LOL
I’m calling B S 😂 you did something wrong. I’ve used this product and others like it, hundreds of times. The reduced ID of the flange, will not impede the flow, if used correctly. If you are having a clogging problem, it was either installed wrong, or there is a blockage in the toilet or the line. The reduced ID is still bigger or the same size as the outlet in a toilet.
@@sativa2050 I myself would not call BS , the yellow insert is too small for some toilets , Mansfield would probably work but not so sure about American Standard Champion . Also some very old toilets can have a 3 inch Bombay
Important side note. Do not caulk around your toilet. If it leaks you want to know. Most times it will show under toilet or discolouration around linoleum, not so much on tile, but if flange was put on the flooring it would. Reason why you want to see it leak is to know when to change it. If not knowing it usually rots floor before showing up on ceiling below. Not always but mostly. Just 45 yrs of plumbing that I have experienced.
I'll caulk everything in front but then not the back for this reason, but keeps boys messes from going under.
Down here in Florida you definitely want to caulk underneath or even grout if you want. Whatever color your toilet is-that’s the silicone caulk or grout color you’ll use. I’ve even mixed some latex caulk with white grout to make the grout more flexible when dry.
You want to caulk/silicone/grout to hide shims if you ended up needing them. Plus you don’t want nasty water that overflowed toilet to get under there and rot. You don’t want your wax ring to eventually go bad and cockroaches come up from sewer and escape into house. Plus you’d be surprised how much guys miss or the backsplash gets on floor then the floor gets mopped and the urine on floor keeps getting swished under toilet. Most of the time if it’s grouted you can see discolored grout if it’s leaking underneath.
Rotting under toilet does come from overflowing toilets too-not just from a bad wax ring. Even if caulked or grouted it can still get under there thru those or even thru grout on tile then it runs under tile. Once water is under there it takes forever for it to dry anyway.
Even if a wax ring goes bad it’s easier to tell it’s bad if the toilet is sealed with caulk/grout. Why you ask? Because it makes an echo chamber. The water flushing will get loud and you’ll hear it gurgle it’s way down and echo under toilet. An experienced plumber can tell either way but for you DIYers, Homeowners or handymen-just flush the toilet and you can hear the flush being loud. If you’re a home owner and you’re noticing the flush is getting louder and louder then it’s a bad wax ring.
Even if you don’t caulk or grout under toilet it doesn’t mean if you have a bad wax ring it will come out underneath right away. Water finds the lowest spot and this is where the toilet flange in floor is so the water will go there first and then go down around outside of sewer pipe, go underneath would or laminate floors and yes even go under tile floor and travel even feet away until it has a spot to come up that’s down hill from the toilet.
Sorry for a long babbling comment so I’ll leave homeowners,DIYers and handymen a tip. Whenever using caulk/silicone get your self a can of Denatured alcohol and an empty spray bottle with mist spray. Denatured is just like rubbing alcohol but it doesn’t evaporate so fast & is weaker-it won’t hurt anything . You can do this trick on anything-around windows,toilets, baseboards,crown molding, trim, shower,tub, countertops ,bath/shower fixtures, anywhere. Apply your caulk with your caulk gun and then before using your finger mist the whole line of the caulk/silicone with the Denatured alcohol. Now run your finger to smooth it. The Denatured alcohol will prevent any caulk from sticking to either side of your caulk line & you-it’s almost like you put tape on the wall. It will leave you with a professional caulk line if you’re not good at caulking. I hope i just saved the world and many showers, windows, countertops from actually leaking from incorrect caulking.
@@Eejtalk Covering the front and leaving it open in the back means you will never notice the leak until it gets really bad. Better to just smack your boys upside the head until they stop peeing all over the floor.
@@Eejtalk Right a book next Time.
How about tile grout so the toilet does not rock ?
Water will pass through grout
well explained, i love the display showing the flange sitting either below or above the floor. In my case when I replaced the tile my flange now sat below the floor. I am going to check out your product line.
I'm installing this system today I just finished remodeling my bathroom. Great to see this video before I get started putting in the new toilet
It would be a good ideas to put some sort of durable spacer in with closet flanges so when we install them we have a good option to install the flange before trim out. I bet that would sell. I’m a plumber and I’d buy it. I can already imagine a kettle flyer and demo on a plumbing supply counter. “Never have a sunken flange again!”
Thanks! I might need to use something like this . The old toilet was installed with an improvised extension (wood, with plastic/caulking; cemented to the old toilet). This looks to be a cleaner and better solution.
At 2:50, I think he meant to say "first thing you're gonna do is remove the screws that are currently holding the old closet flange to the subfloor." THEN put the gasket in...etc.
Well done. Clear and easy to grasp. Thank you.
This is a great product. I have corrected two toilets in the house with the original flanges installed too low.
I'm a very green maintenance tech for an apartment complex. I'm happy to do learning and researching on my own and I'm finding that my supervisor doesn't know as much as he thinks. When teaching me about placement of the flange he said to make the top of it flush with the floor. I think im starting to see why so many of the buildings seem to have issues with leaking flanges if he's been putting them too low and not correcting that when we find them low. And the supervisor before him would just stack wax rings 3-4 high on top of a cracked flange instead of actually installing a new flange. So I think I have my work cut out for me, but atleast I know how to go about correcting and fixing the issues properly now
It sounds like the boss never thinks about the best quality repair; he just wants to get it done. Keep doing what you're doing, think it through, and do it right. I have a lot of issues with hiring people to repair my house because they too often do something fast and cheap that pisses me off. As the building super, you're not paid to rush!
Sounds like you should be the boss
@@Jason-un9ps he didn't like me questioning how he got stuff done, so I was fired. Go figure. It's OK I'll get more work and more training!
Congratulations all involved. Very good production value. The talent seemed to have flawless delivery. Well lit too.
This is well worth watching just to understand why the heck this toilet is crooked. Physically or mechanically I instantly get -- but how?/why?/who?/when ??
Timeline drama. Pathetic.
Finding this video was the highlight of my day. Guess I'm officially an adult. Time is a cruel mistress..
This comment is hilarious and so true!
Overlooked one potential problem.
Your Johnny bolts need to be set through the first flange or when you snug up the nuts a gap well form between the two flanges and possibly allow sewer gas to escape. Also that system reduces the inside diameter of the flange. Not good for really big poo poo.
Instead ,clean the heck out of the existing flange apply a thick bead of glue/sealent to a traditional spacer ring screw down at 4 points.
PS. Use extra long Johnny bolts and trim to proper hight after setting toilet. Silicone base of toilet last.
They want you to remove the old Johnny bolts. Place their spacer and flange on top. And screw their six screws through and down into the sub floor. These screws will prevent gapping. Then with the secured top, Johnny bolt from there up into toilet, with wax or other gasket.
If you want to keep your old Johnny bolts for some reason. Then this kit would be a waste, as you’re buying a whole lot of parts for one spacer and a gasket.
I’m writing this as I breath in raw sewage so some details might be grammatically awkward lol
Lucky Luke ;,4Runner a autumn a
You do know that all the piping in a toilet is less than 3” right? So matching the diameter of the toilet outlet with the flange, is not that big of a deal. If the clog is big enough to stop at the flange, it is big enough to stop inside the toilet. This reduced opening will not make a difference in clogging. I’ve installed hundreds of reduced flanges into cast iron waste pipes. Meaning the iron pipe is 4-6 inches and I installed an expansion flange with a 3” opening. I’ve never had an issue with increased clogging.
99% of the time when a toilet clogs, it is the toilet that is clogging, not waste in the waste line. Has nothing to do with the flange. Also, the system described in the video is fastened down with screws, so there will be no gaps between the spacers and their flange, especially if you silicone between them.
even my toto drake 1.6 only has a 2 3/8 outlet diameter which is smaller than this extender which is 2 5/8
I want to thank you for your expertise your knowledge and your content what a great RUclips video certainly helped me immensely thank you and bless you
What do you do in most cases when there’s nothing to grab into...everything is lose...leak away....or if the sub floor is concrete..just wondering...can you use extended Johnny bolts to secure everything...seems to make more sense...
its like play time in 3rd grade all over again. Even the bright colored toys too................NICE !!!
So informative. Thank you.
SALES PITCH WARNING!!!
First off, anyone who uses the metal or plastic swivel flange is using inferior products. Second, never use the adjustable slots. Use the notches that are on the white plastic flange. They are stronger. Anyone who has spent any time doing new construction and service work Ought to know this. And third, anyone who does not know how to seal a toilet when the flange is screwed to the subfloor is not a plumber. The flange is made to be put in on the rough and screwed to the subfloor. It’s been that way since Plumbing began. And if your “Plumber“ doesn’t know how to set a toilet without it leaking, he is not a plumber. This is just a sales pitch for someone to sell a product that they came up with. Just one more thing to buy. I’m not saying it’s a bad or a good idea. But the floor depth and flange height are greatly exaggerated in this video. And to the commenters who say not to screw it to the subfloor and that it is not code, you don’t have a clue what you’re talking about.
Great product! I used this in two bathrooms with great success.
So we went from using heavy gauge brass flanges to Chinese made plastic and thin easily corroded sheet metal. Insanity continues...
We would cut either copper or cpvc spacers. And the GC always knew to tell the flooring guys or tile guys to remove the screws install the flooring under the lip of the flange. The come trim time we drilled our holes and secured the flange.
Just installed this and it worked great! Gotta say I'm glad I watched the video because the included written instructions are terrible.
Great video, and a nice product.
Every time I roughed in a toilet for a new house or job I would ask the tile guy or carpenter what is going to be the finished height of the floor is it going to be a 1/2" or 3/4" higher etc. And most qualified plumbers do that !! Anyone who screws a toilet flange down to the sub floor does not know what they're doing . With that said every now and then you come across some rubegolberg or do it yourselfers, that tried to save some money ..... I think this is a great fix for that .... Nice !, but your premise is wrong that plumbers screw the flange down to the subfloors it's not code .
If the new owner comes in and decides to change the floor for something different, they’re stuck with whatever thickness of flooring (or thicker) is down unless they want to shim the toilet. That’s why you put the flange on the slab. He’s trying to sell a product that can be overcome with an extra high wax ring.
flange needs installed at rough, back in my production days we would do 10 to 25 houses at a time they werent sold or if they were who cares you aind going to know the flooring. go ask a carpenter give me break he dont speak english any how. Ive literaly screwed hundreds of them dow to the plywood floor. So no your premise is wrong your talking custom homes and Im talking hundreds of homes. yea yea in a perfect world you find out finish floor.
Jeff Y .. paaalease ... really you don’t talk to the other contractors?.. I’ve done thousands maybe 1, or two there wasn’t anyone around .. in that case you know their going to put in a floor most likely tile, so you automatically rough it in a 1/4-1/2” anyway ... check your code Einstein..
The flange is between 1/4 and 3/8 for a pvc flange. I completely ignore metal flanges because they are junk. Anyone who has done service work knows this. I’ve been doing it for 30 years and my first 20 years I probably did 300 houses a year in new construction. A tile floor is approximately 1/2 to 5/8 inch thick. A regular wax ring is plenty to fill this gap. And if one is in doubt you can get an extra thick wax ring or double it. This video is just a sales pitch. That’s all it is. Trying to cause worry When there shouldn’t be any.
I am renovating two bathrooms on a 2nd floor townhouse where I had installed this product approx. six (6) years ago and when I removed the toilets today, I found the two-flange extender. I highly recommend this product as it worked perfectly for me. I never had any clogging or any flushing issues, if anything these two toilets have been the most reliable out off all my rental units.
nice what is the life time of the product and is that USA plastics or Chinese? One thing I am not and that is a licensed contractor
We put ceramic tile in our bathrooms and had three different plumbers in and I don’t think any of them have done it right! I found your video by accident and I’m glad that I did!
Thanks for the info!!
So since I have to remove our broken flange and replace and have decided to install backerboard and tile I should install the new flange AFTER completing the floor tile?
Yes, after the tile is done.
Excellent video, great explanation! Thank you!
Greetings all! What should the measurement be between the finished floor and the top of the flange? Or said differently, how high should the flange be above the floor? Thanks for your time!
Easy cleanup , came as described fast. Great product
Im having this low closet flange issue with a macerating up-flow toilet. The thing has a basin the poo goes into which has the flange built in it.. so for one i cant drill any screws into the flange because the tank must remaim sealed. However after the subfloor, leveler, backer board, tile i have almost 2 inches i need the flange to be at. Under the basin is a concrete floor.. the only thing i can think to do is to stack spacers in between with silly cones in between each pvc spacer then wax ring on top.. i still have to get some super long bolts that will work to go from that bottom flange all the way through the pooper.. thats like a 4” bolt at least..
Great information. Simple yet educational. Love it when people know what they are taking about
I was waiting for little heads to pop up so he can hit then back down to win a prize.
lol!
😂😂😂
Wow...u make it look so easy. U are a great teacher.
I replaced my toilets a couple years ago and in the one bathroom they have the abs/pvc black flange just like this about 1/4 inch below floor. I did a bunch of research and professional plumbers were saying to double two wax rings. This year The toilet started clogging easy. I removed the toilet and found the kids had flushed a plastic flosser and it was in the outlet of the toilet.
It had baby wipes also stuck on it and that is why I was having to plunge it recently. Well I think somehow when I used my heavy duty t-handle bazooka plunger I caused the wax seal to fail. Floor was wet and particle board on top of subfloor was soaked and expanded. So now it needs a new floor, new wood, new flange extender kit. If I had just installed this kit in the first place this damage and new floor would not be necessary most likely.
I use to split the wax rings and use one wax ring and the split half to raise the height of the seal. Never had an issue and did it a million times.
This is what I am curious about! Different plumbers say different things. Some say use spacers, some say double up the wax rings, so say don't just stack them but blend them, some say don't do that at all. UGH. What is the best way?
If you did this a million times then they must all leak!
Im a plumber of 25 years and no not all flanges should be installed on top of floor....reason ? Some cheaper toilets and even a few quality toilets have very shallow bases and will sit on the flange causing it to rock..... there is no issue with installing the flange on sub floor.
Thank you very informative
Good content. Good information. Thank you.
Great product!
Great video.Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material.
Call me a glutton for punishment, but every remodel I've done I cut the flange out and put a new one at the correct height. I also screw them down. So many people don't for whatever reason. Even on concrete slabs, I do it. Grout the toilet if on tile or concrete, caulk if on sheet vinyl or plywood. I'm not a plumber but I've been taught by two and I've changed out a bunch of toilets over the years. I don't like gimmicky wax rings either. Just your plain jane wax ring. I've tried others and regretted it. My two cents. If you're a pro, I'm open to criticism for my own learning. Thanks.
If you grout or caulk your toilet down, you won't know if it's leaking.
@@k1RpKgwD Leave the back open. Caulk and/or grout the front 2/3rds.
What if you have cement foundation? Still screw right into the cement?
I took the first measurement at 3 o'clock and the second measurement at 9 o'clock. That's all well and good, but I think it's entirely unreasonable to have to wait 6 hours between measurements! This project took all day!
😉😏
It's like a plumber's version of "Three Card Monte"
Great questions....why are there no responses from the video host?
Unless you have the toilet in your hands and you can physically see the bottom of the toilet. DO NOT set flange on top of finished surface. There are so many toilet makers now and zero regulations on how far the toilet waste discharge opening is set above the surface of the bottom of the toilet. Meaning, if you flip over new or old toilets. and put a straight edge from mounting bolt to bolt. The bottom of of the toilet that actually touches the floor and the bottom of the toilet that discharges waste can vary from 1/4" to 5/8" higher than the floor surface. So when you set your 3/8 thick pvc toilet flange on top of the tile surface and you bought a cheap toilet that the waste discharge is only 1/4" above the finished surface, your screwed to say the least. Now you get to be one of those people that have a toilet with 1/2" of caulk under it, sitting on a pile of shims. Thats also why toilets flanges are screwed to the subfloor.
You are absolutely right. I've installed American Standard and Kohler and both required that the flange be flush with the floor... or very close to flush. Below the finished floor might be a problem at times but flush works very well.
Great comment, thanks!
Does the inside diameter shrink with this install and does that affect the flushing flow?
It does reduce the ID but it will not affect flow. The siphon tube in the toilet is the same size or smaller than the reduced flange ID. I’ve never had an issue with reduced flanges.
I'm having three new toilets installed (replacing old ones) and have hired a plumber to do it. I am an engineer and no doubt could do the "work" but because I know the value of industry/trade knowledge vs "DIY" knowledge, I feel better paying now and not 10x more later to fix my mistake. Even if I didn't make a mistake, I'd be watching it for years just knowing I did.
ha! plumbers.......because engineers need heros too
I'm no plumber or engineer and I replaced my three.....it's a wax ring dude, have a little confidence.
@@spatt833 exactly, because without confidence you might end up paying some money
"I'm an engineer" God help us all
Great way to explain to correct way to set a toilet flange!!!!
My 60 years of plumbing experience disagrees! You want the closet ring flush with the finish floor, so as to give expansion cushion to the wax! (Too thin, no flex]! You should always use a 110 [felt or neoprene lined wax ring, [for wall mount W.C.'s] When setting the bowl Ya wana feel the wax squish a bit!
Yes this was a big help thanks..Now...where can i buy your kit?
I bought one at Menards
What if you have a stock flange that sticks up a good 1/2" above floor n new toilets connection is flush with the base?
The Correct Height of a Toilet Flange is an elusive reality with every toilet I've had to work on.
If on concrete slab use tappcon screws
I just use cut nails
The flange on the front left is not a lead bend, it is a brass flange ring which your wipe a lead bend to. I can see where a lead bend was cut off at some point. I have wiped the brass ring to lead in the past. Yes I've been a plumber for a long time. before we even had plastic pipe.....
Thanks.
Clogged toilet waiting to happen. This reduces the diameter of the hole. I've set hundreds of toilets on flanges below the finished floor without issue. Put in a wax ring w/horn, extra thick if needed, in the flange to have the wax around 3/4" above the finished floor so the bottom flange (hole) of the toilet fits in it and the 1/2" gap outside of that hole under the toilet pushes down on the wax to make the seal. They make wax rings w/o the horn so you can stack one on top of the first if needed, and smear the wax together to make it one taller wax ring to meet the toilet when setting it.
Use 2 washers and nuts to secure the toilet bolts (3 & 9 o'clock) to the flange before setting. Add your wax ring(s) onto the flange. Slowly guide toilet over the two bolts and lower evenly with floor. You'll feel the toilet meet the wax ring and slowly smash the wax before the toilet's perimeter sets on the floor, then you know you have a seal. Shim toilet if floor or casting is uneven so no wobble. Snug toilet to bolts, fill and test. Those plastic wax rings they sell are junk, have followed homeowners installing them and had leaking problems. Why you would reduce the closet bend opening by a pipe size rather than add a wax ring is beyond me?
Well said
The code says on top of finished floor.
I'm currently in the process of dealing with a bad leak because another unlicensed "plumber" did exactly what you are describing, after having new tile installed. I saw the whole thing, asked questions, etc. He said he'd done "a bunch" this way, and "it'll be fine". It was, for about a year and a half. Lot's of damage; follow code.
I have always just added another wax gasket and never had a problem
@Kathern Pierro
I had no idea she had a boyfriend. Sorry you had to find out that way bro
Thank you !!
Finally!!!!! Thank you!
Very good video. I see so many people tile their bathroom floor and then can't figure out why their toilet is leaking.
What about offset, I can't seem to find a good repair kit for an offset flange
Most are set on subfloor so I just buy closet flange spacers from the box stores. They work great and it's quick and easy.
can i use ta wax ring with flange with this system or should i use one.without
Yes you should always use a wax ring with all toilets
Great design. 👍
Excellent video 👍
What about cement sub floors. I putting tile down and now I’m 1/4” to .3” to low. To use your spacer do I screw the stainless screw to the cement?
You can use cement screw anchors with the stainless screws. I always use weather tight tapcons. Never had any corrosion issues with them. Much easier to place the flange, drill the holes and zip in some tapcons. Versus put the flange, mark holes, remove flange, drill over sized holes, put in anchors, put flange in, hope the holes line up, then screw in screws.
Here is the video for mounting to concrete floors - ruclips.net/video/MyCKo7NE2Ik/видео.html
I hate this kit. the spacers aren't 7 inches in diameter like a standard flange would be there too big around, and the yellow flange with that tail piece cuts off volume flow (chokes it down). Every time our sales dept( LOWES) supplies this, i opt to just stack the standard stackable flange adapters that are white and are 7 inches standard in dia, i just smear wax rings in between the flanges and compress. Everybodys got to reinvent the wheel. My wheels been rolling for 30 years doing tile floors and remodeling. Flush this kit. go back to the white pvc flange stackers that have worked forever.
What can ye do if the pipe and flange is an inch or two above the vinyl flooring?
cagar sin toilet
@@jackeld9153 - Shit without toilet?
Great video. Can you state the actual purpose of the wax ring? Since the underside of the flange pipe isn’t pressurized, (open to atmosphere), if the wax seal leaks, is it leaking from between the toilet funnel and wax ring, or the bottom of the wax ring and top of the flange. I would think it’s between the toilet funnel itself, and the wax seal against that porcelain funnel, since this is the only pressure, although very small.
Also ..... Think about when the toilet gets blocked and the water is reversing direction. Wax rings , as proven as they are, are less friendly, especially on a floor with a flange that's not high enough to begin with.
Whatever system you devise, you've got to think about the plunging situation and will the system hold in reverse ! 🤔
you can also look into using a closet flange support bracket. I've got a video on how to install it on my channel, it's really simple and prevents rotting floor and toilet wobbling.
Great vid. Got floor rot.
Getting ready to cut plywood floor
Bought dewalt oscillating tool
Ready to copy. Thx.
Real plummer's do the job right, the problem is when people install tile the tile guy doesn't put a flange extender on, over time the toilet leaks and the plywood gets rotted and maybe a floor joist, then you're out of a bathroom and a lot of money.
I’ve done a lot of building maintenance in my life and never have I ever seen a toilet flange sitting 1/2” to 3/4” below the floor. every flange I’ve seen has been level with the floor
once a friend asked me to look at a toilet in a bathroom being remodeled And his toilet did not touch the floor at all. I removed the toilet from the flange and found the flange was on top of the floor
I told him to remove the flooring under the flange, remove the flange and install a new flange level with the floor his toilet now sits level on the floor and functions properly.
Any good plumber that is plumbing a new house will find out what the floor is made out of and install properly.
If later on down the road someone changes the floor then you will require a riser of some sort.
Unless the original floor was thicker & they decide to go thinner
I've done both plumbing construction and service work, and I had one Apt Complex that when rough-in they must of thought the floor would be higher, all done with copper DWV, and anytime I would pull or replace a toilet, I would fight a high closet flange, had to shim the toilets more then once, in this case I rather had the toilet flange below the finish floor ,
One thing I don't get it when he says to screw it on to the floor ,
I've seen others installing toilets videos and I don't see them screwing on the floor . They only only use the the fitting sleeves add glue on it ad the wax ring and then place down the toilet on it then they they secure the same toilet with the screws coming up from the underneath the flange....🇨🇦🇨🇦
Do you need screws to fix the a new flange on sub-wood floor? Thanks.
Definitely, he said it comes with stainless screws, otherwise nothing would hold your toilet down.
I set my flange on top of the tile then wax ring but it's still leak from overflow. I've done a few toilet but never had any issues. What did I do wrong?
I’m having the same issue. I believe the floor has some rotten I’ll need a thicker spacer.
Do you have a version that doesn't so significantly restrict the inner diameter of the final pipe? Seems unnecessary to drop all the way down to 3". Could cause a clog at the flange location which would expose the flange to high pressures when plunged.
celeronxl big box hardware stores sell them in 4 inch.
I put my flanges directly on top of the Hardi backer board. Once the tile is installed, you'll usually have an 1/8 above the floor with your flange which is perfectly fine. If you use a material like marble which is most of the time a little thicker than tile, just shim the flange by loosening the screws and thin setting under the flange. There is always a little room for adjustments. Might have to adjust a support in basement or crawl space. This is another reason why the best scenario is knowing all your materials you're using way ahead of time from beginning to end.
Hardie backer isn't waterproof. Having any type of subfloor exposed under the flange is not the best way. Stubbing up the pipe and capping it off on rough in is the best way to go.
Nice product.
What's the I'd opening of the yellow extender?
small enough to constantly clog
Too small
Being a master plumber this kit looks like a great problem solver.
Bad option. That add on flange on top of the spacer increases the chances of toilet colggs due to the decrease in size.
What size is the inner diameter of the toilet drain? If it’s the same as the toilet it shouldn’t cause problems.
This looks awesome. I like that there’s an actual gasket between the flange and the spacer. The other brand of spacers don’t have a gasket.
But what if the flange is on a a concrete slab? Do you have anything for that?
Thank you again, I truly cannot wait to try your product on the next job that requires a higher flange.
Previous owners had tiled the bathrooms themselves. I noticed cracks in the toilet and decided to replace it. Removed old toilet and the flange is flush with the tiles. I put the new toilet on and there is a 1/4 inch gao in the front of toilet. If i get this will it fix that problem
Do toilets have a large enough recess where the flange sits up inside with enough clearance for the wax ring as well? I guess I never took a look.
Yes, there's a recess on the base of the bowl. The horn is even with the base. So when you set a can, the horn goes inside the flange.
great video
4" Abs fitting accepts 4" pipe which accepts 3" fitting which accepts 3" pipe. You get in a closet ring JAM build your way out by cutting different pieces from different fittings and pipe.
Very cool!
Here is an idea, how about increasing the diameter of the toilet floor flange area so that it sits nicely on the base of the floor?
Finally! Someone tells people how a flange is supposed to be. 3/8" proud of the finished floor. There's a horn on a toilet. That horn must be inside the flange! I have been a plumber for 41 years and today is the last day. In that time I have never used a bowl wax with a plastic sleeve. I have never used 2 bowl waxes. If the inspector wants to see the flange on top out, fine. Cut pieces of soft copper the thickness of the finished floor and put your brass or stainless screws through those. It's not rocket science. Jesus wept. It's a certainty that the floor will be ruined if the flange is not at the proper height.
richard wysham m
richard wysham it is a shame that most new plumbers today and tile setters don't understand how a toilet flange is to be installed. Whenever I meet a new contractor they laugh and say they never have seen a Flange mounted on top of the tile. So frustrating. And same here on my jobs I never use a deep wax and double wax is just stupid.
the flange is supposed to be level with the finished floor. ask the flooring guys what the dimension of the flooring material will be and then set the flange to that height. pretty simple
Richard, God bless you for your 41 years protecting the health of the nation. I hope you back and knees are still in good shape after all those years.
So should it be 3/8 or 1/3 flush with floor?
one problem these days is, if you have a floating floor in your bathroom, you can set the flange on the floor because you cant screw through the finished floor...it needs to expand and contract
Why wouldn't you install the 4in drain tall, cap it off till trim out and install the flange at the same time you install the toilet, which would be after the finished floor is done..
Good stuff