How to Replace a Broken PVC Toilet Flange (Start to Finish)
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- Опубликовано: 14 апр 2020
- How to Replace a Toilet Flange. In this video you will learn the step by step process to repair or replace a broken PVC toilet flange. This toilet flange project was done in a home with a wood sub floor and a tile bathroom floor. Whether your flange is an outside fit or inside pipe fit... the process will be similar. After watching this video you should be able to remove your toilet, replace or repair the PVC toilet flange, install a new wax ring and reset the toilet.
I used a power saw to remove the old broken flange... but a hand saw will work just as well.
*If this video was a help to you give it a "thumbs up". If you have not already done so, please consider subscribing to this channel.
Disclaimer:
Although I have been following these procedures for many years; I assume no liability for any damage that may occur to any person or property as a result of the information provided in this video. I take necessary precautions (that I am aware of) when working on these projects but that in no way implies or creates any ex pressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any kind or particular result. Any injury, damage or loss of any kind to anyone or their property or anything related to information in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helping U online (this video). 
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"Helps to have a spotter". That is a detail that no other video shows. They all just say "place the toilet" and I fail to align it the first 5 times and now the wax ring is deformed. Another website suggested putting drinking straws to extend the bolts and make it more obvious - so there's that. Big Thanks!!!
Take the tank off the bowl and the toilet seat if on, then you can see the bolts thru the seat holes. Just have to move your head a little left and right to align. Then put the tank and seat on. Better than screwing up wax ring and starting over!
I've watched about a dozen videos on replacing a flange and yours was by far the most helpful. Thank you!!!
Glad it helped
Thank you Joe. I have to do this in my spare bathroom. Excellent instructions!
Thanks bunches for going from the "floor/flange" up..I am about to tackle my first "toilet base leak" and am not sure if I will have to replace the flange or just the seal....but this will help me know more about how to tackle the job..small or larger..& the tools I will need to get it done...wish me well !!(LOL) Thanks again VERY good & clear video !!!
Thanks so much! This was a great instructional. I didn’t know the flange had an outer fitting onto the PVC pipe coming out of the floor. I thought it was on the inside. Many thanks again.
Glad it helped! Many fit inside and some outside... depends on how your house was plumed.
WoW! You started right and the only one I've seen that has! Thank you, your video is the only liked one thanks for the refresher brother GOD bless
Wow. This video helped me a lot...even tho I'm going to have a pro do the installation I wanted to understand what needed to be done so I could communicate correctly to my plumber (I was debating changing the flanges since the house is near 30 years old).
Thanks a lot. I have to fix my toilet when I get off work today. I thought I was going to have to replace the drain pipe and everything. Awesome advice.
Glad I could help. Hope your project goes well!
Same here I said oh man I think I might need a new pipe. Hoping I can fix mine today
You Sir are a HANDY man. You have my respect. Great video.
Great video and info, short and to the point! Thank you.
4:11 Easier said than done. Very helpful video.
Exactly what I needed. Love the fact that you gave every detail. Perfect!
Glad it was helpful!
The only thing missing is the slow close lid. Most people expect them now and they just drop the "old" style (how hard is it to check before letting go, I know, but some are idiots). Great video, thank you for helping me....now I must try.
I've been told, 'The jobs not done tell the paperwork is finished.' Not true, you may have a place to do the job, but the job and paperwork is only the beginning if completion becomes a mess. Thank you for a very helpful video. More to toilets than I thought I needed to know. So much more.
Great job. As a side note the bolts are blended with nickel which makes them brittle enough to break them off with a pair of pliers at the groove you cut them. Best way to do that is to use vice grips on the nut to prevent bolt from breaking the new pvc flange
Thank you for sharing taught me something sir 🙏
My pleasure... and God bless you and lead you in your project!
Excellent video 👍
He doesn’t need shims between the flange and the floor. The flange is supposed to be screwed down to the subfloor. Then build up the space between the flange and the toilet with wax rings.
Thank you for your video. I have never replaced flange before, but I did replace wax. I did super glue the flange seven years ago. It is still working good.
Procedure was good but the reason your flange broke was the cavity under it and those home made “shims”. The proper way to do this is to fill in that cavity with something solid. Wood or cement.
Good job....! I work at home depot and I will be able to give good advise now and know what to sell....! Thanks. Al Sautner
Glad to help... thanks for your feedback
Getthe flange off! lol
When my flange broke I put 2 , 2x4’s under subfloor screwed on to floor joists then put new flange in put new wax ring on seated toilet then put two 2.5 inch lag bolts in to hold toilet on. It’s good to go now.
That's a great idea! My flange broke, and I found the stupid thing was only held down by one single wood screw, because whoever installed it originally (the house was built in 1952) cut the dang hole in the subfloor too big! Aaaaarrrgh!
Thanks for the video, good tip.
You bet
Thank you👍
Helps to have a spotter, She comes in wearing a hazmat suit lol!
Nice job. Good video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much!!!
Glad it helped!
Great job!
Thanks!
Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad it helped
You must enjoy fixing that flange because you’re gonna have to fix it again sooner or later having it sitting on 4 little pegs lol
thanks for the tip of using 1/2" cooper as slims. I didn't even think about that
I can't take credit for that... the original plumber did that... but the copper is resistant to water and my other toilet was done the same way and has had no problems for almost 20 years now. I have moved the toilet paper holder and I think this will be good for decades to come also.
I wouldn't use those shims - that's probably why the plastic broke in the first place. The flange needs to sit flush on wood or tile to be supported all the way around. Instead of the shims I would have cleaned up the surrounding thinset and cut a plywood spacer ring to support the flange around the entire diameter. A little construction adhesive and run the screws all the way through to the subfloor and the plastic won't flex and break again.
Thank you
Great Job with your video. I agree, it is the best one I have found. One Question, are you concerned about the next time you have to replace that Flange since you primed and cemented it to the pipe? Are you going to have to cut the pipe?
Shouldn't be a problem as the first one was glued as well. You just have to make sure that you're only cutting relief cuts into the flange and not into the pipe, with those relief cuts; it's easier to break the bonds of the glue so that you can put a new one on. Any half-decent plumber should be able to replace a fitting without replacing the pipe so long as you have enough clearance to work with for cutting especially with today's new oscillating tools
Jericho Joe are you talkin about a vibrating multi-tool?
Good job thank you
No problem
You need to level the floor gap around the soil pipe and make it flush to the floor. Cut a ring out of plywood to do this. Those 4 shims are why the original toilet flanged cracked in the first place.
Oooo he knows it all
@@nicholasgordon2572 he's definitely correct just think about it. You'd then have contact all the way around the flange. Not just in four small areas.
In many cases the PVC flange bolt slots on the sides crack and sever because the novice before you over tightened the nuts at the base of the toilet which was what I discovered after removing the toilet from the floor.
So the flange needs to be flush with the floor?
@@NSDaishi, no
I also found it interesting how (in a sense) easy it was to remove the old flange from the pvc pipe. I would have thought the old glue job had fused the pipe and the flange as one. Then it would have been next to impossible to remove.
It wasn't done right the first time or he never would have gotten them separated.
I damaged the pipe the flange is connected too. Sawzall cut into it. Am I screwed?
PVC Glue and cleaner/primer only create a glue joint. It doesn’t create a solvent weld.
@@robinganzel1082 wrong. Primer and glue together melt the top layer of plastic.. It was never glued properly or it would have never came off without damaging the pipe.
@@billybranum1852 This has been my understanding too. Am surprised he got the off like he did.
I always thought primer and glue basically welded the pvc joints.
I've emptied the bottom of the bowl with a siphon tube. A little bit tricky b/c you probably don't want to suck on the far end to get it going...but it can be done. i filled up the tube with forced water at the sink, put my thumbs over each end get one end down in the toilet securely, then of course get the other end into the bathtube at a lower level than the bottom of the toilet bowl.
Good video. I wish there was a better and faster way to cut off the bolts, I hate that part of the job.
Great Vid
Thanks
Double nut closet bolts eliminate the wobble and stress on the plastic flange.
I'v always love to see a woman who isn't afraid to get her hands dirty, way to go, outstanding.
So cold😂😂😂 wth
Part of this fix might be to tear out the toilet paper holder, drywall up the hole and purchase a free-standing TP holder, thus preventing another broken flange?
That is exactly what was done and no problems with the flange since....
Did anyone notice the chisel he used? Dude, that looked like a Stanley 750. Take care of those quality made antiques, worth $75 each.
Why not use the metal repair ring for extra support...?
I dont understand why you used those spacers under the flange since the flange should be screwed tight to the finished floor anyway . Seems like it would hold it up too high and the toilet would rock above the floor if the flange is too high😮
thank you
You're welcome
Awesome video, but I think they make replacement flanges that install right over top of the busted flange. I'm gonna have to check that sh*t out tomorrow, as I busted my flange while installing my new commode at midnight! Aaaaarrrgh!
What's your opinion of reinforced wax ring with horn/funnel vs standard ring? Seems to be lots of pros and cons for both. I've heard several plumbers say they discovered the plastic funnels can cause splash-back due to the smaller resulting diameter to move stuff down into the drain pipe. But then most toilets only have 2" or 2-1/8" trapway anyway. I've also heard that the plastic funnels can break down over a relatively short period of time. ???
I just used a rubber ring, no problems and less mess !
Good video but 3:41 in, you bypass showing how you cut the groove in the pipe - which turned out to be biggest challenge.
Wish you would have shown that because the rest of video is excelent.
see 4:10 and you will see how I did it
For getting the residual water out, use a hand pump for filling a kerosene heater or a turkey baster.
Great job but use an oscillating tool instead of a sawzall , it’s much easier .
Since most people have a drill, I'd saw a hole saw would be much more economical.
@@pellergin maybe but hole saws aren't cheap especially in the 3-inch to 4-inch range and not often used in that size range except for specific jobs. So buying one for a one-time fix wouldn't exactly be economical and it's hard to find one that's the exact outer diameter of a pipe anyway. If you go too large you can't get the fitting on, you go too small the glue won't hold. Might be more economical TimeWise as referring to getting the flange off, but in the long run you're better off cutting the relief cuts, separating the glue, cleaning it up, and regluing. A lot of times trying to do things the supposed fast and easy way aka ECONOMICALLY can get us into trouble. People spend more time and effort trying not to do something than just to do it. Little elbow grease never hurt anyone.
Tile should go under your toilet flange. Might be stronger if you secured some tile pieces under the shoe with thinset.
This is my issue. Guess I will need another person to lift off and on great video
I think maybe them copper pipe shims just cut into the flooring and that’s why the flange cracked in the first place. Perhaps washers would create a more solid foundation for the flange thus eliminating the need to repeat this job in the future.
I was thinking the same, that new flange is going to break also. I am willing to bet on it. The pressure at the shims will crack it. Should have used the spacer rings.
Thank you very nicely presented very useful.
Glad it was helpful!
I bust out laughing when I heard him explain how that flange broke 😂
How did it?
Flange didnt look too high looked flush
"burst"
I burst out laughing
@@practicalintuition4030 no bust and burst mean the same thing and bust actually has the word burst as a definition
"Thankfully the installer didn't use primer" "I'm going to put primer on the new one"
This an excellent video but I use a siphon pump remove the excess water.
I always like the guys who don't wear gloves
HOW DID YOU SAND IT?! lol that's what I'm needing to see. I'm currently doing this and having trouble coming up with ideas for sanding the outside of the pipe to get the new flange on. Your video cut away right then.
I used the chisel to chip off the few pieces of pvc that were left on the pipe and did very little sanding... just enough to smooth it out a little. I folded the paper in half which made it stiff enough to go around the pipe a few times and do what I could.
Does the flange needs to be flush with the floor or being slightly lower or higher okay?
The height of this flange works great (flange collar set on top of finished floor)... having said that there are different thickness of wax rings you can purchase to compensate. You don't want it too high though.
Is it this easy with concrete floor?
Is this still viable if I'm in a condo unit on the third floor? Just bought, and found out the main toilet has this issue.
should be... not sure of the type of construction there... concrete floors or wood frame?... also you have the challenge of a neighbor below. In your case you may want to consider hiring a plumber to avoid the possibility of straining a relationship with a neighbor?.
check for leaks before you cut the bolts in case you have to pull the toilet again !, they now have longer screw on caps so you dont even have to cut the bolts !
I'm in the process of doing this. Not looking forward to replacing the flange.
Shop vac comes in handy, if you have one.
Most videos I have seen the flange goes on the inside of the PVC drain. I’ll have to check mine and see which it is.
There separate types of flanges.
Some glue into a 90 that comes up and some will glue into the actual pipe making the closet space alittle smaller.
As a plumber I prefer this method; and if you do have either of the other ones it’s the same thing you just cut inside instead of out
My floor flange goes on the inside. I have to replace it because the plastic slot is broken where the left T-bolt goes in. The floor is tile on cement with electric in-floor heating so this ups the ante. Proper cement screws were not present either. The little job that grew!
Not as bad as i thought it would be.
Why not use a set-back closet flange. Although it looks like the tank is 1" or less from the wall?
In my case the two bolts securing the toilet were installed in the horse - shoe like opening of the flange instead of the designated slots, and the flange itself was not oriented correctly. No leaks, no wobble I wonder how it held together for years and years with the bolts in the wrong holes of the flange?
The flange has multiple mounting options in this case either will work
I've cracked the porcelain after eating too much Taco Bell. Lol
Barefoot and those shorts - Is this the Flintstones' house?
This probably works fine in a lot of situations but be carefully not to bust up, crack your pipe below
Great video, but what if the floor is a concrete slab 😢? I think the only choice is the metal ring.
You have to screw metal ring down to floor too. On concrete you use concrete screws.
Fun fact: it is actually BETTER to have the flange flush with the floor. As you can see by shimming his he caused wobble even after installation was done.
Lol no. That’s a big piece of misinformation right there
U never want the flange flush with floor the toilet won’t seat right n it can leak
@@chadbrown7648 subflloor or finished floor ?
Theory why not use threaded flanges instead of glued do they even make threaded flanges?
Better to go with a new flange instead of a repair kit. Do it right once so you dont have to tear it apart again.
Nice video....I have same issue except my kids seem to think shittin and dancing go hand in hand 🙄
What about using a universal metal flange when the PVC one breaks ?
I believe that toilet flange broke because of the inconvenient location of the toilet roll. In the other bathroom the flange has not been any trouble for 20 years and it is the same as the one I replaced. I considered a metal flange repair ring, as mentioned in the video but I have seen those rust and rot. So long story short I don't think the problem was the PVC but the location of the toilet paper roll causing people to put undue stress on the flange.
You should not wiggle it left and right because you are using a wax ring if you push down one side more than the other side the low side will not go back up then you might have a gab between the toilet and the wax there for you should drop your toilet on the wax ring and push down evenly on both sides with out wiggling you can do so only with rubber ring because the rubber gos back to its shape
Have you heard of a period? Use them.
What did you use for spacers???
I just replaced what the plumber used from the original install... 1/2" Copper water line cut to length.
Did you move the position of the toilet paper so it doesn’t happen again?
Yes... right away and no problems since to this date
Better to use to use a hole saw on a drill, in this video which uses a female flange, a 4" hole saw to be exact, to remove the ring. Helpful video though.
maybe shim back of tank also,mine broke do to someone pushing back on toilet or bumping it
Just so everyone knows the flange does not break off the spigot that easily it's damn near impossible, especially if your pipe sits below the floor. I'm screwed.
Where can I buy those shims you are using
The plumber cut those from half inch copper water pipe
Would have been much easier to cut the 3” 90 out underneath and replace it all. Plus never use a pvc closet flange get the ones with the steel ring. I have only done this 1000 times before
Shop vacuum 😊
trying to replace my falnge...that is in concrete, and it's just like yours is in teh subfloor, with the flange on the outside of the tube...and they poured the foundation around it :(
Try using the repair kit he mentions in the video
Just have to silicone the base and your done.
I was told not to silicone around a toilet base. That will seal in any water leak from a worn wax ring etc preventing you from early detection allowing the problem to get worse and rot.
@@BoomerActual Just leave a small portion uncaulked. 👌🏼
Now move the toilet paper holder
I was under the impression that the top of the flange needed to be flush with the floor not above it... it seemed like you were saying that the entire outer portion of the flange needed to be its thickness above floor level. that seems too high.
I use my shop wet dry vac
Brave man ! BAREFOOT YUK!, let alone chancing BROKEN TOES!
No need to use glue here. It’s just making extra work when you have to replace it again.
Buy a squeze bulb from Amazon and it will suck out the water with very little left to leak from the tank?
Should have said it was for a sub floor. I have cement to deal with.
If you have rusted bolts and can’t unbolted, just cut them off and don’t try to move the toilet, you may break the flange. That’s what happened to me I end up cut it off a pieces
Also, have you or anyone tried the latest toilet seal (in place of the wax ring ??If so, please let me know opinions on how they work in comparison...Thanks again ~
What happens when that flange breaks? The twisting hasn't changed
I relocated the toilet paper roll and so the excessive twisting has changed. So far it's holding up like a champ. The toilet in the other bathroom what was installed exactly the same has not had any trouble since I built the house 20 years ago and the only difference is the poor location of the toilet roll in the one that broke.