Видео

Congratulations! That’s amazing. Happy for you.

Yes and not to hyper! Very chill and lovable.

Thank you !

Yes indeed. Huge paws!

It was a one day job so I’m out.

Thank you Jim!

Yes of course it is!

Welcome !

Thanks mojo!

It’s just plastic so you can use almost anything to cut it.

That’s weird. They output different types of light like daylight, cool blue and some others.

@@diywithcontractorken.6124 I ordered another. My son informed me that when I stepped out to shut off the breaker box, that he accidentally knocked the new light off the ladder. So maybe he damaged it.

@@tjsimmons02 yea maybe. If it’s the same light as the others then it should be the same brightness. Good luck.

Yes the hawk n trowel guys do really good work!

When you're done flush a few times and see if water is coming out from under the toilet. If no water comes out then you're good to go.

@@diywithcontractorken.6124 well the idea being before you start removing the tank, bowl and all, some food coloring (or similar safe colorant) is added to the tank water, flush a time or two, then look for where the water might be dripping, seeping from. Then start the removal & repair steps. Thank you

@@j.lietka9406 yes that’s a good idea. You can see where any fresh drips are coming from .

Sorry sir!! That would be a big, hearty NO!! Penalty of life in prison for adding that food coloring!!

Glad it helps. Thanks for wstching!

Awesome Ricardo! Good luck!

Yes you can do that but hot mud also fixes that. Also slap mesh tape on it the coat it and it will be fine.

All good knives but my main concern is stainless steel. It must be stainless steel. They last way longer!

Leaking from the ceiling below or leaking out from the bottom of the toilet?

I know they are supposed to last much longer than the old light bulbs but they don't. The company that makes these is kind of a scam.

Yea I could have used some plastic shims for that but it’s only 1/8” difference so it’s still going to be fine.

You are absolutely correct, more than half of that flange isn't screwed tight and flush to the flooring, it must may turn out that it isn't 'still going to be fine'...even IF the floor is only 1/8" thick which I doubt.

Yes you can get a 3" flange like this one and it will fit into a 4" drain pipe.

@@diywithcontractorken.6124 According to the specs I've seen the 4" push tite is supposed to fit the I.D. of a 4" pipe. "886-GP 886-GA Inside 4" One-Piece, PushTite with Extended Outlet". I figure once I cut the hub of the 4" 90° fitting there will be a little of the 4" pipe still inside.

This is not a concrete floor. If it was I would need to pre drill holes where the screws are going to go for the flange then vacuum the dust out and glue wood rods or toothpicks into that hole the I could screw down the flange.

So mark where the screws are going to go for the flange then drill holes in the concrete, vacuum the dust out, the put glue in the hole then put in a bunch of toothpicks or a wood dowel, let it dry then screw the flange down.

Thanks ...@@diywithcontractorken.6124

Thanks Justin . Messy but really fast.

So even just painting it same color as the wall looks so much better. To go a step further you can run your hand across the concrete and any little chunks sticking out can be smashed with a Hammer then skim, sand, texture with the rest of the wall and paint. Also If you get it flat with the hammer you could then glue sheetrock and finish it that way. Thanks for watching! Let me know how it goes.

Why do all that for just a utility knife? Just give a quick squirt of wd and keep on going.

Exactly! Those guys don’t test them before renting them out. Even if they did they don’t know what they’re doing. They have cost me half a days work many times.

Yes drywall finishing is work. Taping isn’t as bad as hanging. I guess bullnose is child friendly compared to the sharper square corners.

Yes you need to see the bullnose in person. I think it looks custom, modern and smooth.

@@diywithcontractorken.6124 a very impressive and nice job sir! And great to see a good guy on the internet! I think I would be a big fan, and I’m broke and by no means an architect but if I was going for something modern I think I’d only want sharp edges, but I think the bullnose looks really nice

@@diywithcontractorken.6124 I don’t know how I’ve never seen it before, but I went to Italy in the fall and saw a lot of smooth stuff like this but it was made of stucco, mortar, brick and marble, I started to appreciate stuff like this after going to Italy

@@josephragosta89 Yea some people love it some people don’t. It’s a personal preference thing. Some people need a little time to get use to it.

@@josephragosta89 Yea I was also there last summer. Everything is different over there. The houses are made of concrete!

Thank you! 😊

You got it done! Good job.

That sounds pretty cool. I’ll have to check it out.

Welcome. Glad it helped. Good luck!

What are you saying?

Yes it does !

No I've never heard of anyone shimming a toilet flange. It needs to be flat to the floor.

I see what your saying, but that minor angle (exaggerated by the camera 'fisheye') is more than adequately compensated for by the wax ring. The important thing is that the flange is adequately secured to the floor, which overall must be in good, solid condition, enabling the toilet to be held fast to the floor, with a wax ring preventing any moisture from between the mating surfaces

@@mechantics yes that’s right!

Yes but a very slight bow is good. I don't want it to be perfectly straight.

there should be a bow.......keeps the mud from sliding off...put the mud on the bow side

Sorry Paul. I showed the blade and how it works but did not video myself cutting it out. But its a pretty simple step to understand.

What's the name of the bit

@@lukeyancey980 not exactly sure but any plumbing supply shop will have it.

@@lukeyancey980 it’s called PVC inside pipe cutter,

You mean a Dremel ?

​@diywithcontractorken.6124 I think he's referring to an Oscillating Multi-tool; the various attachments are designed for, among other things, grout removal, scraping old paint/caulk, sanding (with the little

I appreciate the description of the circular blade on your drill; I have a few that came in an old Kennedy machinist tool chest I found on the curb🤯, thanks!

Right on Gerry!

The flange can sit on top of the floor and the top of it will be about 1/4" above the floor. Doesn't need to be recessed into the floor.

Hey John! So just carefully slide a butter knife or a screw driver in behind the the trim piece and pull down. Its all one piece.

Paul you will need to mark exactly where the screws are going to go then drill a hole in the concrete. A good size hole at least 1/4" tp 1/2" wide. Vacuum out the dust then glue a wood dowel rod or tooth picks into the hole. Now you have something to screw to!

just use s/s tapcons they come in flat head

@@butchs2337 never used them. I’ll have to check them out .