@@tylerdurden9364 hey mate. Thanks for watching. You got a point there. Personally for me the the electronic + mechanical is the most flexible one when it comes down to my style of shooting. I don’t need to worry about shutter speed limitation and can dial in up 1/32000 if needed but also got the capability of shooting flash in hss up 1/8000 with the mechanical. If I would decide to shoot with flash. Hope this answers your comment 👍
I use a bridge camera...Fujifilm 9400 with 50x optical zoom. I usually shoot shutter speed priority since I'm typically zooming in on moving animals. I also shoot continuous focus, 3 shots per second, jpg fine, shutter speed 800 or faster during sunny days with ISO 100-200.
Would it be easier to do minimal editing on raws, or set the film profiles in camera? I feel like there are so many options, perhaps just shooting raw and toggling through the film profiles in the post edit would be faster... but I'm not sure .. any thoughts?
Hey mate, my thought process is if you want the maximum data in your file because you planing on doing editing then raw files are probably the best option to give you the best flexibility when it comes down to editing. However sometimes using the jpegs and a film simulation will safe you the time editing and the files which come straight out of camera are fantastic. Keeping in mind tho that you need to get your exposure right to make the most of the jpegs. Of course you could shoot raw all the time and throw a lut onto and it will give you the same result as a jpeg. I’d say it’s purely down to your editing style and what is the easiest for you also if you got the storage Available for the raw files or not. Plenty of ways all depends on your style of working/editing I guess. But to simplify it yea you’re right with what you said. Personally I like the raw files, for the most flexibility when it comes down to editing however I do like the jpegs for the easiness and speed of usage Hope this helps a bit
@@FlorianFrickel thank you for the detailed response! Another follow up; do you think lightroom luts and precepts are similar to the fujifilm simulations; or is there something specific about them that is hard to replicate in lightroom?
Hey mate. I don’t use lightroom anymore I’m on capture one by now however the originals are always original colours if this make sense. Of course you can re-create them but that’s probably down to your own knowledge how close you get them. Luts is always an option and perhaps one of the easiest option to create a look. Of course you could also create your own luts and safe them and use them when ever you fancy
Hi, you said that if you use black and white film simulation like acros, you can’t turn it back to colour? But that’s not correct. The camera saves a colour version in Raf also, as well as the b&w.
That’s depending on your menu settings. You can choose between compressed or lose compressed. The main difference is the file size you will get out of it. You will loose a tiny bit of raw quality/ information with the compressed version which is barely noticeable. But if a smaller file size is important then you can do so
@@FlorianFrickel I will leave it on uncompressed then! How do you transfer your raw images to your phone/laptop? It seems like apple doesn't support Fuji's RAW uncompressed images
@@angelicalobaton9026 I usually didn’t transfer images (raw) to my phone only to laptop for editing and then usually send a copy to Dropbox or transferred via airdrop. If I did editing on the go I used an iPad 11 pro with a usb c card reader to transfer images
@@angelicalobaton9026 yes they did. It’s probably down to the age of your iPad if you got a newer iPad with usb-c connection and it’s a iPad Pro 11/12 you shouldn’t have problems importing them through the file app
Im often in Manual, but when i go to c1 ,c2,c3 or c4 on my new added film simulations ... and then go back to manual on the dail. The manual photo settings are now on my regular settings. I dont know if i made myself clear. I often shoot on classic neg on manual, and shift sometimes over to one of my programs on c1 to c4 and on them the highlight and shadows, clarity is often editet alot more. So when I switch over then to manual dial with my classic neg now my pictures or settings are changed/editet from my last programs. I dont want them to change when i go from programs to manual on the dial. Is that possible?
I think I get what you try to say. I’m my experience when I use my safed pre sets and jump back to Manuel mode my Manuel mode is set to the settings it had set before. So it shouldn’t change any settings except from settings you had set before hand if this makes sense
To be honest can’t tell you why right now, maybe reset the camera and see if the settings come back available. Didn’t have this problem yet myself so hard to say
Hope this little behind the settings been helpful and as you can see it’s easier then you think sometimes 📸👍
I wish you would've mentioned shutter type and why you choose to have yours as EF+ M+E
@@tylerdurden9364 hey mate. Thanks for watching. You got a point there. Personally for me the the electronic + mechanical is the most flexible one when it comes down to my style of shooting.
I don’t need to worry about shutter speed limitation and can dial in up 1/32000 if needed but also got the capability of shooting flash in hss up 1/8000 with the mechanical. If I would decide to shoot with flash.
Hope this answers your comment 👍
Thank you! Just bought a like new XT2. I plan on setting it up with a focus on JPEGS. Your insight is priceless! Best!
i got a X-T3
finally i found someone who explain me things about my camera!!! thanks
Glad the video was helpful to you
Definitely needed video thanks for sharing
You’re welcome. Glad you like the video and it was helpful to you
Thanks FF. Love the Fuji X system.
Thanks for watching mate
I use a bridge camera...Fujifilm 9400 with 50x optical zoom. I usually shoot shutter speed priority since I'm typically zooming in on moving animals. I also shoot continuous focus, 3 shots per second, jpg fine, shutter speed 800 or faster during sunny days with ISO 100-200.
Thanks you man ❤you’re so useful
Glad the video was helpful to you, thanks for watching
@@FlorianFrickel hey mate, i just started using my camera again, i got a Fujifilm Finepix S, can you please make a video?
Por favor un vídeo con la configuración de diales par f, ss e ISO? Muchas gracias
Would it be easier to do minimal editing on raws, or set the film profiles in camera? I feel like there are so many options, perhaps just shooting raw and toggling through the film profiles in the post edit would be faster... but I'm not sure .. any thoughts?
Hey mate, my thought process is if you want the maximum data in your file because you planing on doing editing then raw files are probably the best option to give you the best flexibility when it comes down to editing. However sometimes using the jpegs and a film simulation will safe you the time editing and the files which come straight out of camera are fantastic. Keeping in mind tho that you need to get your exposure right to make the most of the jpegs.
Of course you could shoot raw all the time and throw a lut onto and it will give you the same result as a jpeg.
I’d say it’s purely down to your editing style and what is the easiest for you also if you got the storage Available for the raw files or not. Plenty of ways all depends on your style of working/editing I guess. But to simplify it yea you’re right with what you said.
Personally I like the raw files, for the most flexibility when it comes down to editing however I do like the jpegs for the easiness and speed of usage
Hope this helps a bit
@@FlorianFrickel thank you for the detailed response! Another follow up; do you think lightroom luts and precepts are similar to the fujifilm simulations; or is there something specific about them that is hard to replicate in lightroom?
Hey mate. I don’t use lightroom anymore I’m on capture one by now however the originals are always original colours if this make sense. Of course you can re-create them but that’s probably down to your own knowledge how close you get them. Luts is always an option and perhaps one of the easiest option to create a look. Of course you could also create your own luts and safe them and use them when ever you fancy
Sehr gut gemacht.! 👍 Gerne auch einen Beitrag über eine sinnvolle Belegung der Costums-Tasten...
Danke dir Heinz. Sinnvoll liegt im Auge des Betrachters. Aber das video Kriegen hin fur die custom buttons
Hallo sir..thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching, you’re welcome
How do you get white balance in the menu? I don’t see it on my camera.
If you mean the quick menu you need to set it up beforehand in your settings to have it available in q menu
nice settings but they kind of seem more practical for video not photography. Fellow fuji shooter here btw.
Thanks for watching mate
What's the name of the recipe that you used for the pictures @3:44 ?
Kodak portra
ruclips.net/video/l0N67fzlgwI/видео.htmlsi=6o6UJesXuMTyabxz
This video will go into detail about it and how to set it up etc
@@FlorianFrickel Thanks for the quick reply. Keep up the great work!
How did you get to the settings with the photos with all of the icons on the screens
What minute in the video is it ? What you want to know? So I can have a look
Press on the q button just above your focus lever
Hi, you said that if you use black and white film simulation like acros, you can’t turn it back to colour? But that’s not correct. The camera saves a colour version in Raf also, as well as the b&w.
Are all Fujifilm RAW images uncompressed?
That’s depending on your menu settings. You can choose between compressed or lose compressed. The main difference is the file size you will get out of it. You will loose a tiny bit of raw quality/ information with the compressed version which is barely noticeable. But if a smaller file size is important then you can do so
@@FlorianFrickel I will leave it on uncompressed then!
How do you transfer your raw images to your phone/laptop?
It seems like apple doesn't support Fuji's RAW uncompressed images
@@angelicalobaton9026 I usually didn’t transfer images (raw) to my phone only to laptop for editing and then usually send a copy to Dropbox or transferred via airdrop.
If I did editing on the go I used an iPad 11 pro with a usb c card reader to transfer images
@@FlorianFrickel did the raw images show on the iPad?
@@angelicalobaton9026 yes they did. It’s probably down to the age of your iPad if you got a newer iPad with usb-c connection and it’s a iPad Pro 11/12 you shouldn’t have problems importing them through the file app
Im often in Manual, but when i go to c1 ,c2,c3 or c4 on my new added film simulations ... and then go back to manual on the dail. The manual photo settings are now on my regular settings. I dont know if i made myself clear. I often shoot on classic neg on manual, and shift sometimes over to one of my programs on c1 to c4 and on them the highlight and shadows, clarity is often editet alot more. So when I switch over then to manual dial with my classic neg now my pictures or settings are changed/editet from my last programs. I dont want them to change when i go from programs to manual on the dial. Is that possible?
I think I get what you try to say. I’m my experience when I use my safed pre sets and jump back to Manuel mode my Manuel mode is set to the settings it had set before. So it shouldn’t change any settings except from settings you had set before hand if this makes sense
I just got my Fujifilm Xs10 and using 85mm f1.8....I cnt able to change focus points,its showing only 117 Focus points...can you advise?
To be honest can’t tell you why right now, maybe reset the camera and see if the settings come back available. Didn’t have this problem yet myself so hard to say
Hi. My details in my photos shows only 2megapixel instead of 24. Any idea why this is happening? Thanks in advance
I’m afraid. No idea first time hearing about this
thank you
Thanks for watching