Fujifilm Dynamic Range Settings
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Dynamic range setting on Fujifilm XT2, XT3, and XT4 cameras for still photography and video. Dynamic range is a complex topic that involves ISO, camera processing, and RAW files. There's more to learn and future videos will explore the topic in additional detail.
Get notified of new videos! Subscribe here: pal2tech.com/s...
Instagram: / pal2tech
=============================
🎥 Gear Discussed in Video
=============================
XT4: geni.us/nJUB4
XT3: geni.us/7WnKBv
=============================
🧰 Discounts on Services and Tools
=============================
My Current Kit: kit.co/pal2tech
Gear shop: amazon.com/sho...
=============================
📺 See These Videos!
=============================
Fujifilm Camera Settings: • Fujifilm Camera Settings
Fujifilm Lens Reviews: • Lens Reviews
=============================
🎬 Production Notes
=============================
Producer and Host: Chris Lee
Music: / peyruis
=============================
❤️ Support this Channel:
=============================
If you wish to support the channel, there are two ways:
1. Join pal2tech Backstage here: pal2tech.com/b...
2. Use my PayPal here: www.paypal.me/...
This is very much appreciated. All donations go toward the funding of future videos for this channel.
=============================
👥 Contact Info:
=============================
Business inquiries: chris.lee@pal2tech.com
Instagram: / pal2tech
PRODUCT REVIEW OR TO SEND SOMETHING:
pal2tech
1227 North Peachtree Parkway 165
Peachtree City, GA 30269
United States
NOTE: Product reviews are entirely independent. Some of my links have an affiliate code. If you purchase gear with these links, I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you!
#fujifilm #xt4 #pal2tech 
Наука
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been a Fuji shooter for more than 5 years now and this is the first time someone is explaining this to me in a clear and concise way. Thank you.
Me, clicking on this video: Probably nothing to see here
Me, after watching: My entire life has been a lie
very true
By a clear mile, you’re my favorite Fujifilm related channel. Thanks for the amazing tips and videos.
Wow, thanks!
Same here. I come from an engineering background and like when the information is clear, concise, and - entertaining. Thanks pal2tech
@@equisetuminc Tell me something. Have you been overwhelmed by the menu of Fuji camera? I've never had problem figuring out an electronic device before this and it's been upsetting lol. If as an engineer you've struggled too, it would make me feel better about it lol I bought my XT4 like 2 weeks ago and I'm still figuring out the settings. I see endless opportunities where the menus could've been made much clearer. How is DR 100% and 200% just 1 stop apart. You'd think it doubles the range. That's just one example.
Just a mile, new Fuji user here and this guy seems like a god at this point 😂
I definitely turned DR 400% on after seeing the results. What I really like about this feature (at least in the firmware I have), it doesn't limit your ISO when you have 400% DR enabled, but instead will put an icon on screen to let you know that you're only getting 100% or 200%, so that way I can shoot below 640 if I need too without digging through the menus to disable it and missing the shot.
Dont affect Raw?
Exactly! No brainer feature to use.
The most underrated option and very understood, till pall2 tech clears it out for us mortals
Finally someone explains this clearly! Thank you!
I bought many paid tutorials of Fujifilm, NO ONE explained how Dynamic Range works!
Finally learnt form GOOD Teacher.
@Pal2tech I enjoy all of you R&D video about Fujifilm!!! THANK YOU !
You bought PAID tutorials?
I do not want to disappoint you, but bro, you was scammed. :(
Shoot progressive grayscale picture. Then compare to what you see on screen. Paying for that is dumb.
Wow, mind blowing. Thanks so much for the detailed explanation! I have never understood the raw file effects and I've shot at DR 100% for the past 6 years. I am just now realizing for almost all my applications, I should have been using DR 200 or 400. Fuji's xtrans filter does such a good job with noise that for almost everything except still landscapes, the noise tradeoff is negligible. This video should be a must see for any fujifilm owner
Me too!
Haha me too, I always thought it only affects JPEGs and also that DR100% means already more DR than "off". Thank you @pal2tech I've learned a lot today.
This is so helpful to understand and you do it so clearly in your videos! Really appreciate all the time you put into helping us understand various features and concepts with the Fuji system! Thank you!
Thanks for showing this off. What's also fun is to compare a properly exposed raw image with DR400 at ISO 640 to an image underexposed by two stops at ISO 160. If you take the ISO 160 and raise the exposure by two stops, you get the same image as the DR 400. And if you lower the exposure of the DR 400 by two stops you get the ISO 160 image.
That's because that's how DR works. It underexposes the image (to protect those highlights) and then saves that raw file with metadata that tells editing tools to boost the base exposure by two stops.
At least that was my experience when I used programming libraries to read and demosaic fuji files (thanks dcraw) with the DR setting.
I love the effort you put into your videos. Much appreciated. Thank you.
Superb. Living proof that being expressive really boosts teaching.
How the hell can people dislike this video? So incredibly useful.
And I really loved how you physically demonstrated the histogram highs and lows.
Laugh out loud funny.
As a Fujifilm user, I really love your videos. From your lens reviews to camera tech talks, your videos are very knowledgeable and helpful to me. Many thanks.
My goodness, thank you! I had no idea why my files act so weird in the editor. Such an informative video. And delivered in a digestible manner as well. Once again, thank you!
Subscribed. Awesome video. No nonsense. Just knowledge.
This should be required viewing for every Fuji X shooter. Very well explained, many thank's.
Yes!! Please do a video dynamic range demo. This lesson was very helpful. Thank you! Love the channel.
Great video.
Dynamic Range is a strange beast. If the Fuji is truly ISO invariant (as we're told it is) then you can replicate DR400 in bright scenes by simply shooting with a quarter normal exposure and then boosting the non-highlight areas by up to four times back on your home computer. Not that you'd want to, as it's an editing hassle.
If you take your Fuji and increase DR from 100 to 400 when you'd normally shoot at ISO125, it will indeed protect the highlights but also add a tiny bit of (ISO500 minimum) fuzz into the picture. The DR 400 will literally have reduced the light on your sensor down to a quarter, which is quite spooky when you think about it. (For example, a 500th/second F2.0 ISO125 shot at DR 100 becomes a 125th/second F2.0 ISO500 shot at DR 400). But, as long as you don't mind that tiny ISO500 fuzz, you've saved your highlights.
If you take your Fuji and increase DR from 100 to 400 in a gloomy scene where you'd be at ISO500+ anyway, your DR100 and DR400 shots will be the same.
It's an artistic etc decision whether you actually like blown-out areas in a photo and whether you care about accessing the best light quality (and least ISO fuzz) possible.
For me, although I hate giving up on finest ISO125 picture quality, I'm happy to pay the tax always of being at ISO500+ for the comfort of knowing two stops worth of highlights are protected. So I'm on DR400 for my street snapping and anywhere that risks blown-out highlights. And knowing that, in gloomier light (where I'd be at ISO500+ anyway), I've lost nothing anyway compared to DR100.
The above is based on my tests and research, but this is a slippery topic and I might find reasons to change.
(As an aside, DR400 can be impossible with mechanical shutter on bright says as it'll be too bright to run ISO500 on normal shutter speeds).
Thank you so much- you do all the hard work for us and then disseminate it in the easiest, and with the smores, the most tasty ways possible.
another eye-opener from pal2tech. Thanks for providing sound knowledge in an entertaining yet straightforward way.
Hi Chris! Was this video helpful? Definitely it was! It was especially helpful for understanding the process of camera creating the RAW file containing metadata that refer to the DR tool, something that one can't find in user manual! That is what I LOVE your videos for! You go beyond mere overviews or "filming a user guide", so to say. Do all photographers take interest in tech points?- not, of course, as modern cameras provide good shots in vast majority of shooting conditions automatically. But there always a room for improvements. And the better we know our tools, the better results we can achieve. You help it a lot by doing your videos and sharing your profound knowledge of tech aspects of photo gear with us! Many thanks, really!!
Because of you i boot a fuji xt4 my first camera .Thank you for your videos.
I've been so confused trying to figure this out but you explained it so well. Thanks!
Awesome review. All these years I’ve been using DR settings and D range tools and cursing Fuji for not giving me good range in the Raw files not realising I had to move the sliders in LR.
I usually just use the excellent JPEG’s from Fuji (They are amazing!) But for weddings I edit from Raw files to ensure details from the wedding dress. Now I know I need to use the LR sliders!
Thanks for explaining noise in the shadows when using DR; I was getting annoyed with weird quality of shadows. But now I understand this quirks I can edit in a whole new under. Thank you!
Excellent video. This is the best and most detailed explanation of dr setting I have seen.
Finally I understood what this setting means. After literary reading in three different manuals / books about it, it still wasn't clear to me. Thanks a lot!
Finally I get it! I read the manual and saw other RUclips explanations, some I sure did a decent job, but you turned the lights on. I will send good thought your way now that I understand what has been preventing me from accessing this function. As an old film shooter, the lower the ASA (ISO) the better. Shooting high key product shots for online auctions always resulted in tattle tale gray highlight (or fried) if my blacks were good, or great highlights and a bucket of mud in the shadows. My histograms looked good & I tried to compensate by exposing for the highlights or alternately shadows but high key still needed a lot of patching up in post & of course there was no real fix information I don’t have. Anyway, I’ll give this a shot and see if Dynamic range tools can improve my results. Thanks
WOW! Thank you so much for sharing this important info in regards to the dynamic range setting. That is a massive difference in terms of recovering the highlights. I had this setting off on my XT2 for the longest time because I didn't how it worked. I will definitely turn it on moving forward. 🙏 👍🏼
Every shot is really at ISO 160, but when setting ISO 640 and DR 400%, you only change the indicated ISO in the raw metadata to 640. This means the shot is underexposed 2 EV to keep the highlights, the black and shadows get pushed up 2 EV in the cameras raw converter because of the DR400. This is actually done post exposure. ISO exposure in camera (developer push/pull or ISO) is better known as brightness, and is literally no different than changing exposure slider in LR after the fact. Reason why you see this difference in LR in your example and think it is baked in to RAW is because of the raw metadata. If you compare the RAW files in application such as RAW digger, you will find that the RAW data (real exposure) is the same, except for RAW metadata. Capture One disregard DR and will show a DR400 file as underexposed as it really happens in camera.
Exactly! This was my conclusion as well! The video is wrong when it claims that any kind of separate processing of highlights and shadows happens before analog to digital conversion. While doing things that way might be theoretically possible, in practice it would require DR processing to be integrated into the sensor. The reason that the camera insists in you setting a higher ISO to enable DR is simply that underexposing and then digitally recovering the shows increases noise levels in the darker part of the image. The increase in noise (approximately) matches the increased noise that the higher ISO would show if the camera actually set the sensor to the selected ISO level instead of two stops below that. So by forcing you to select a higher ISO, the camera simply informs you about the increased noise.
@@phlo314 I had similar thoughts, having different iso levels on a pixel level doesn’t sound right. As far as i’m aware increasing iso just increases the voltage supplied to the entire sensor hence increasing the sensitivity/iso, not on a pixel level.
If this was the case it is a BIG deal and we should always turn it on because it means we can have optimal iso value across the entire image, increasing dynamic range and lowering noise. Fujifilm would have marketed this feature more, not keep it as a hidden setting.
Exactly, 6:17 is a wrong statement.
What would the best iOS to shoot?
@@1825OREO There no "universally" best ISO, it's always a compromise between noise (lower at low ISO) and motion blur (higher at low ISO because shutter speeds are slower)
Most important channel for Fuji guys like me
Your explanations and examples are so easy to understand. Thanks so much for this video.
Thank you so much!!!! 👍 🙏
Amazing mate, honestly I struggle so bad with this and have read , watched so much over the years and finally, finally you explain it bang on in 4 mins 😄. Top work , keep it up
Thank you so much for this! I shoot a lot of landscapes and this just changed the game
Thank you. Awesome explanation 👍
Great video! Great explanation! I am an experienced digital photographer, and I have never really understood what the DR setting really does. So I have always vacillated between Auto and Off. Now I know when/how I want to set up my Fuji's. This video might well be my all-time favorite!
A brilliant explanation of DR. Thanks
Thank You! You are making excellent content!
Thanks for the excellent explanation!
Just discovered this option on my camera! thanks for explaining what it does, can't wait to try it!
What a great video, thank you! I recently shot a video in f-log for the first time and could not understand why an ISO wouldn't go below 640. This video solved the issue and helped to understand the dynamic range function.
wow thats a really good explanation thank you this helped me a lot!
Thank you very much for this explanation!
DR400 is so important and the noise in 640iso not relevant.... thanks for this one. I had this turned on when I got my XT3s but now I entirely understand it. Well done!
I finally understand Dynamic Range. Thanks to your video. Well done. Hope the Marshmallows tasted good.
OK ... now you're really connecting with your audience. The comments are overwhelmingly positive and many specify they've gotten 'value'. I suspect you can carry the "What's this button/setting really do?" theme a long way. We normal folks are hungry for demystification. Too many experts seem faintly contemptuous of those less knowledgeable. Good work in avoiding that ego trap.
Ok, I give up, I’m subbing for that intro alone!
Incredibly well explained!! Thanks!
This tool will help me out during the summer mid day while photographing pure white snowy egrets.
As always, fantastic and very informative. Thanks.
Thanks Brian!!!!
This is really helpful, thank you!
In HDR 400 mode, the camera shoots two-stop under exposed images to suppress highlights and makes the dark fields lighter with ISO-640. It is a good image processing algorithym. However, in case you record outdoor videos under daylight, an ND filter will be inevitable to avoid too high shutter speeds. Thank you for the video, greetings from Turkey!
Incredibly well explained, and wow! impressive results!
Well said and demonstrated. AHA moments!
Wow. Fascinating and practical. Loved the return to the s’mores intro😊 maybe +400 good for scenes w snow 🤔 thanks 🙏
thank you for explaining this so well sir :) but you lost me when you whipped out that chocolate, at which point I was drooling on the floor and couldn't pay attention. I'll have to start this over once I have concluded my earthly cravings.
I just tried this on my xt2 shooting Raw. My base iso is 200, so I shot a DR100% image at 200 iso, then I changes my iso to 800 and shot a DR400% image. They where both metered at zero and the only difference was the change in iso and the corresponding change in shutter speed as result. My Raw files in Lightroom have the exact same amount of dynamic range. With the same setting applied the histograms are identical. The only differences is more noise in the 800 iso vs 200 iso image. I saw that you shot all of your images at 640 iso. This is the reason you ended up with a different amount of Dynamic range. I know that when you increased your iso you loose dynamic range so I think you handicapped the DR100% files since you were not shooting at base iso of 160. I repeated the test like you did shooting all images at 800 iso on my xt2 and just changing the DR setting and my results were the same as yours. If you shoot all images at 2 stops above base iso and just change your DR setting then you will get more dynamic range in the raw files just like you demonstrated. If you change your iso to the corresponding DR setting, 160 on your camera for DR100% and 640 for DR400% then you end up with the same dynamic range. So yes it is affecting the raw file but you are handicapping your images shooting above base iso if you do not need to. So I would say if you need the higher iso to increase your shutter speed then absolutely increase your DR setting in camera so you do not loose dynamic range by shooting above base iso. But if you are shooting a scene at base iso then the DR setting is not going to give you any increase in dynamic range. I have never scrutinized my image like this so thank you for making this video. I am still very interested in seeing the D Range priority feature, and exactly how this affects the raw files. Thank you again for the time you put into your videos. You are really helping to educate us to get the most out of our cameras.
Excellent feedback and testing Paul!! Awesome and thank you! 👍
Thanks a lot both of you.
OKAY CLEAR! THANK YOU!!
when I see your videos, beyond the very interesting contents, I notice how every little thing starting from the body language is effective to create interest and grow the channel.
an impressive job.
I think you missed the point. The DR200/DR400 setting simply underexposes and then the camera raises the shadows. You achieve the same with DR100 by underexposing in camera (with exposure compensation) to protect the highlights and then you raise shadows in capture one. In both cases you will find that shadows end up noisier. The question is does the camera fix the shadows better or does capture one/lightroom? DR is therefore useful for JPEGS because when you underxpose, JPEGS will have very black shadows and no way to recover them. But if you underexpose in RAW the information is there which you can bring up in post.
So an adequate comparison between the two RAW files has to be such that the DR100 shot needs to be underexposed by 1 stop when compared to DR200 and by 2 stops when compared to DR400. If you do that you will find that there is no significant difference.
VERY instructive! Many thanks. I love Fuji JPEGs. I use the H high and S shadow tweaks in Q menu. I don’t know if setting of 1 = 1 stop but I set mine -2 H and -1 S. I don’t really care about shadows because Fuji JPEGs hold a lot of detail in the shadow.
Can you make a tutorial and S and H settings in Q menu please.
Thank you for all your videos...I am subscribed and watch all the older and of course the newer videos. Thanks for being a Fujigenius, your videos have helped me immensely!!!
Awesome, thank you! 🙏 🙏 🙏 That means a lot to me Bobby!!!
I tried to set the DR as explained in this video, but both DR and D-range priority were grayed out. Read various forums. Tried adjusting the ISO, put ISO on auto. Put SS on auto. Put lens on auto. Restarted the camera. Nothing worked till I noticed the ring under the ISO dial was set to “HDR.” I switched it to “S” and all of the sudden both DR options were highlighted and I could adjust them. Seems to be some interaction between the HDR setting and the DR settings. Great video, BTW.
Lol WHAT?! Why has it taken me this long to see this video 😭. Thank you so much 🙏🏻
Soooo helpful, thank you!!!
Its such a pleasure to learn from your videos, greetings from Spain!
This video is excellent. I’ve never explored this setting and am now keen to see how I might use it in my photography. (I did wonder about the grocery store intro but the S’mores demo is gold.) Thanks.
This was one of the first things I tried with my new camera (x-h1).
At iso values below 800, the dynamic range is automatically reduced to 200 or 100.
In my experience, the image looks a bit flatter overall at high dynamic range.
That was an incredibly helpful demonstration, thanks! I shoot wildlife, frequently into the sunlight on the X-T4...now I know what the DR setting would do!
Thanks for explaining the DR function so clearly! Looking forward to your D Range video. And I‘m totally going to steal your marshmallow = highlights / chocolate = shadows analogy 😁
This was an excellent video and the usage of the food visual aid was 👏 brilliant. But I got hungry😂
Wow. That was a very important video for me. Switzerland is a “winter” country. Winter = snow = need of highlight protection to see the structure of the snow in landscape photos. That cases problem. I hope so that DR 400% at ISO 640 will help me a lot. I gonna try it during the weekend. :)
Will you please comeback and give us your experiences? I'm very curious how this will perform in shots with something like snow which will be in the majority of the frame. Thanks in advance - John
I have the same problem as I live in Canada.
Simply lower the highlights in your menu 1-2 points. This gives you better results than via DR 200 and certainly DR 400, because you can keep your ISO setting at the lowest setting. highlights cannot recover once they are burned out. Shadows can be brought back reasonably well if your ISO remains low, or your shadows would be so black that there is no more information in it.
I‘d rather stay at the lowest ISO (100 % DR) and shoot with exposure bracketing. Merge the images in Photoshop and you get a very wide dynamic range. I try to avoid noise as possible. Higher ISO means more noise. Btw, I live in Switzerland too and shot several winter landscape images recently as well 😉
@@WOLFTICKVIDEOS currently, I am in the field with the gears. I will come back with my experience and I will share it.
That intro is so goodd 😄
very good and clear! thanks lot!
Thank you for the insights on DR on RAW files.
great video, full of knowledge 💪
Thank you for this!!
Man iam so proud of you.
Thank you so much!
thought this is possible but never sure, its great to get a confirm explanation here. - even better to know that this works on RAW as well.
hope it still works on my XT1 for doing video as a minimum work around when it doesnt have F-Log.
but great to see the amazing results when shooting photo RAW.
looking forward to your following video.
Great videos! I have a photo editing channel but want to get out from behind the desk and into the field. I've spent the day consuming and absorbing your xt4 movie mode videos. Thanks so much for the great info. I'm a novice when it comes to cutting etc. but I know enough to appreciate the amount of work you're putting in to creating these videos! Thank you 🙏
Very informative, thanks a bunch!
You are most welcome!!
Excited about the F-log video 😍
Use only for daytime. Do not use on nigh time. Use HLG instead.
@@edbertcadavero14 Is flog really that bad at night? I bought the XT3 for making shorts, but with the corona it has delayed my projects. My concern with using Flog during the day and HLG during the night scenes, is matching them perfectly in post. What are your thoughts?
@@nehaanil2189 on FLOG some noises can be seen on the dark area when you start grading your footages unless you have a good lights but better avoid FLOG at night. if you value your time.
wow, what a video! glad i'm following this channel. couldn't yet be bothered to figure that whole DR thing in my X-H1 out. Now I know :)
I hit like before the intro XD effects and transitions are getting serious! Great info as always. Just a note: on the XT2 that applies to 400 and 800 ISO.
I literally thought for 10 years that DR400 works only for JPGs:)))) Thank you very much for that info
Am I correct in saying that if you want to use DR 400% it's actually better to go with iso 800 since 640 is actually noisier because of how fuji iso works?
Very useful, thanks a ton!
Excellent video, thank you! Why wouldn’t you always shoot at DR 400%? ISO 640 with modern sensors doesn’t seem to create excessive noise, and the trade off seems well worth it.
I’m understanding that by activating this function you’ll get a bit extra noise and a flatter image before processing but yeah, still seems like not a great inconvenience for the pros it delivers.
This was extremely helpful. I spoke to both a rental company AND Fujifilm today. Both told me that the Dynamic Range settings were useless in RAW. Glad I happened upon your video. Question: Is the amount of shadow noise appreciable from 100 - 400? (I have the GFX100s for a few days and will be shooting stage-lit subjects within an ISO range of 400 - 4000. Thanks for the critically-important info in this video!
Dude im new to Fuji world been asking about this that answer all the question .thanks help so much 🤜🏽🤛🏽
Again a great and very helpful tutorial! Thank you very much for your work!!!
thank you :) great video man
Thanks for the effort in your video, I appreciate your passion in general, so nothing personal, but unfortunately this information is not accurate and think it would benefit your viewers to correct it. You are absolutely correct in saying that there is a visible change to the RAW image when shooting with different DR settings, but there is no actual benefit to your RAW. What you have shown are images where you haven’t protected your highlights when shooting, and you’ve overexposed parts of the image. If you had shot both examples a stop or two under protecting your highlights, keeping detail in the shadows (wether by eye or histogram), all you would need to do in post is raise your shadows and a bit of exposure to get your shadows back, effectively creating the exact same DR setting without using it. Photographers should be using their trained eye or histogram to protect their highlights or shadows to create the type image they want, high or low key, not shooting in a DR settings and hoping in post all is ok. DR settings are designed for JPG shooting where little post work is done, not RAW. Don’t be fooled, raising your shadows by two stops with a DR setting in camera is no different to doing it in Lightroom. You should rather ask yourself why are you working to protect highlights when shooting. If you want total control with RAW images, turn DR (100) off and shoot protecting the part of the image you want for the look you want.
Hi John, I appreciate very much your feedback. I agree completely that histogram/trained eye is most important and should always be used as #1 to get proper exposure. In all the tests I ran I found that there were some differences in camera manipulating RAW in LR vs camera manipulating RAW in-camera via DR setting. I would argue that the RAW files being adjusted before sent to ADC can sometimes be more effective, but also depending on RAW converter in post the results can vary. Ideally it would also be good to test against C1 and iridient developer to see if any differences in how each translate the RAW data.
To what I think is your most important point, I certainly do NOT want the message to be taken that anyone can shoot in DR 400 and all will be ok in post. If that is the case than I can certainly revisit this topic in the future and heavily clarify that point. I’ve planed more videos on the DR topic in general and based on your excellent suggestions will also be more clear about how critical the histogram is and using the trained eye - over any magic fix such as DR 400, etc. Interestingly, there is such surprisingly little info from Fuji about this topic that I could find. I sometimes have been shooting on the dark with regard to my testing. (Pun sorta intended!)
@@pal2tech thanks for your reply, I appreciate it. When it comes to tests, between DR in camera and post software, you unfortunately can’t simply raise shadows in post to try imitate DR settings, because more then just shadows are being pushed by two stops in DR400 for example. It’s a combination of a few tonal areas being adjusted. If you give me a DR400 RAW and DR100 RAW file, shot or exposed correctly, I’ll get them to look identical, using a combination of sliders, not just shadows. The reason there is no info from Fujifilm on DR and RAW, is because it was designed for JPG in camera image processing, not RAW, it’s designed to effectively prepare the RAW capture to give you the Dynamic range in your JPG when processing, the kind that normally requires post software, but now all done in camera. To use DR settings with RAW only, is to fundamentally not understand RAW, and the way it’s meant to be shot. So for example, your images of the mash mellow and window. If you are showing images where the photographers intention is to protect highlights, then those images should have been shot at a lower exposure, 1 or 2 stops under. Then in post he or she, would raise the mid and shadows tones to suit their needs. You don’t want to be baking in an adjustment to the RAW file with a DR setting. To point out, I’m talking about RAW only shooting. If you a photographer who is predominately a jpg shooter, but copies a RAW to card incase, then by all means use the DR, because you are trying to create the best jpg with the most DR you possible can, if that’s the look you are after.
Thanks again, no intention to prove anyone wrong, just trying to push those looking to shoot RAW only in the right direction. DR settings is not the way to go.
@@JohnArmstrongPhotography I agree. made more or less the same point above before reading your comment, but I see that you spotted this as well :)
Really great comparison and explanation. Thanks.
Super helpful thank you. Subscribed!
Thank you!!! 🙏
Hi Chris, as always...a really great video. I have been looking into this setting for years because I wanted to use it properly. An extra tip for RAW shooters. There is a setting called Pic Preview in the menu. I have this assigned to a function button on my cameras ( XT2,EX3) so it switchable. When switched on it disables the Jpeg film simulation and gives a more neutral/natural balance to what is seen through the viewfinder. It is very useful because it also shows the effects of the film simulation on the histogram. Cheers Ian.
Great explantation! Canon has a similar function in their cameras called 'Highlight Tone Priority' but I have no idea if it works the same or not. I use it when shooting real estate as I'm frequently in very high dynamic range situations and also frequently bumping the ISO to "increase my flash power" anyways.
You always explain things so well! 👍🏼
Normally when shooting with higher ISO's means loss of dynamic range. With Fuji approach it is the other way around. Good news for using higher shutter speeds 😁
Unfortunately the 400% also increases the fuji "wormy" artifacts. The only thing that keeps the Fuji system for being perfect for me 🥳
Perhaps you’re over sharpening?
Brilliant.. incredibly educational.
So the only reason not to have this set at 400% at all times would be to have less ISO generated noise right?
Thanks for this