Great tips all around and I really appreciate your informative videos; However, as far as I know the Center-Weighted metering mode ignores the focus point (always evaluates the center of an image, regardless of the focus point) as that is exclusive to the Spot-Metering mode, according to the manual/online info I could gather and test myself. Would love to hear your thoughts on this one.
True, there even is an additional setting for changing the latter, called „Interlock spot AE & Focus Area“ - although I think you would usually want to leave this on
@@snapsbyfox Yes, indeed what Emir DG said, but that's why using SPOT on a Fuji is really great. And, with the latest firmware upgrades of the X100V you can even set a dedicated 'toggle' button to switch between e.g. Multi (let's say that this is your default) and spot for these special moments. I'm using the front Fn2 button for "Spot metering lock" to achieve this.
Also, spot metering is only tied to the AF point when: a) interlock spot AE & Focus Area = enabled and b) you're using single point AF. really I only use multi + spot
OMG - the Holy Guide to photography. Auto ISO, Apertures, Exposure Compensation, Photometry and Auto Exposure Lock CLEARLY explained. We amatures need to focus on these items to achieve a full enjoyment of the process. Don't under estimate of the value your videos have provided to us, the silent photographer!
I use AEL very often, but have it locked (click once to turn on, again to turn off) instead of needing to hold it manually like you showed in the video. That way I can expose once lock the exposure and take multiple images having the exact same exposure, thus creating photos that are more of a series
Hi! How do you do that? When I choose "AE Lock Only" as the setting for the AEL button it still requires me to hold it until the picture is taken. Am I maybe missing something?
@@garciaon Hey, I figured it out. you also have to go into SETUP->Button/Dial Setting->pg 2/2 AE/AF-LOCK MODE has to be set to 'on/off switch' That way when you assign a Fn Button to AE Lock Only, it does it.
@@HaiTomVlog Sorry, missed your question 🙈However, my settings are indeed having the AE/AF-LOCK MODE to on/off switch. And besides that, the AELAFL button to AE LOCK ONLY and the Rear Command Dial (pressing that wheel on the back) to AF LOCK ONLY. → This way you can always lock/fixate your exposure with a press of the AEL button, or your focus with pressing the wheel, separately! 👏 And, if you appoint a button (e.g. Fn2: I'm using that little button on the front for this) to SPOT METERING LOCK, you can easily move into a different metering mode; Spot metering. This allows for very precise targeting where to calculate exposure on. Together with AE LOCK, you can then toggle this SPOT METERING to be able to "aim" where you want to lock your exposure on, based on specific things in your frame. So then, the way of working would be: 1) Enable SPOT METERING 2) Aim for where to lock the exposure on to 3) Lock with AE LOCK
Good idea. That also will then allow you to use Back button auto focus since you can't hold down 2 buttons at the same time with your thumb if it wasn't set to be a toggle instead of having to keep it pressed down. I think it deepens on the camera model to see if that is possible to make it a toggle or not though....
Thank You Roman. First channel I have seen to explain the metering modes, and more importantly, When, to consider making a change. That is my learning for today, Cheers !!
I’m a big fan of aperture propriety, especially when shooting fast paced scenes like kids, dogs, and weddings. The exposure lock is going to help so much! Thank you, Roman.
Once I finally got my Tamron 2.8, I always felt that I had to shoot portraits or single items on 2.8...but sometimes the images were too soft. I now have the confidence to shoot them on 4, and the images are lovely! Another great lesson on my photography journey! Thank you so much! From a very grateful 60+ year old lady. I have subscribed x
When you think about it, you kinda' buy a f2.8 so f4 is in optimum range, because if you bought an f4 it would be wide open and not at an optimum aperture... f8 would 5.6 or better would be.
This is literally the most helpful video that I have watched in last couple of years. Thank you so much for helping us that don't have all the knowledge yet. Keep up with great job!
AE-L is HUGE shooting outdoor candids at weddings. Because everything is fast moving AND you're usually using flash, expose for the sky and lock it, then recompose the people and TTL flash. The sky will be nice and blue, clouds will show up nicely, and the people will POP!
Everything summed up perfectly and easy to understand. Thanks for another terrific tutorial. I think I am finally getting my camera tweaked to where it needs to be, and understanding exactly why.
Another great video Roman. So clear and easy to understand. Should be mandatory watching for all starting out with this little black box. RUclips videos by good guys like you turned me into a born again photographer. Thanks so much.
Glad you mentioned A(uto) E(xposure) L(ock) as it's crucial to using Aperture Priority correctly. If AEL isn't engaged when establishing focus the exposure won't be locked in so if you recompose, the camera's meter will go with the reading that it takes from wherever your camera ends up pointing before you take the shot. Aperture Priority is fantastic. I love it.
The oracle. Love your videos, Roman. You make us what to take photos and strive for better. We’re sitting on a plethora of customisation and you help us navigate these options. Without your videos, my XT cameras would be used to about 25% of their potential. Cheers man. Keep doing your stuff.
This was a very helpful video and it got me re-thinking my approaches. For me, the ‘Photometry’ penny dropped some time ago when I realised it was just Fujifilm’s way of saying “Photometering” aka Light Metering. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so clever and so stupid at the same time… Thanks to this video I’m going to start using that AEL button more often!
One of the best videos of its kind I've seen. That goes for many of your videos, Roman, I have to say(!), but this was outstanding. Having used a Lumix FZ2500 (bridge) camera for a couple of years, very happily, I have for several reasons acquired a Fujifilm X-T5. A big part of that decision was based on your discussion of the custom modes that you can set on the X-T5, which weren't available on the Lumix. A bit of background goss: I discovered your channel in 2022, a couple of weeks after I discovered James Popsys. I then discovered that you're mates, and have been following both of you ever since. Many thanks!
Thank you for the great video! At 12:46, you mention the Center Weighted setting and say something like, "the center point is where the focus is," but that's not quite accurate. According to the manual, "The camera meters the entire frame but assigns the greatest weight to the area at the center." I checked it out, and I agree with the manual-it doesn't depend on your focus point. Only in Spot mode does the camera meter exposure based on the focus point.
Great video The only thing I don't agree on is that lenses are the sharpest between f8 and f11 or midrange through their aparture value. This is not true anymore at the high resolution sensors of today's camera as diffraction appears earlier and making the picture soft again. Sharpest nowadays should be roughly around F5.6
Very useful tutorial thank you. I’m a street photographer with a Fuji XT5. My first outing with it, Notting Hill Carnival !) , was a cloudy day yet many of my shots were under exposed. Poor use of the exposure compensation control. My second outing, (Brick Lane), was a sunny day yet no less challenging. The custom control on this dial is very useful for on the fly adjustments. Yet I still over did it. Your comment about small adjustments was very helpful.Thanks again.
Thank you for the excellent primer/refresher course on using the camera to your advantage. I happen to photograph with a Fuji and have enjoyed making photographs for about the last 50 years. We learn something new everyday! Thanks again and good luck to you in your endeavors
Phenomenal video. I’ve been shooting in Manual since my first film camera in the early 2000’s. The last year I’ve started exploring aperture priority, this video is what I needed to see about 20 years ago 😂. Understanding the exposure triangle is great, but I’ve spent so much time fumbling with my settings instead of getting the shot. Thank you.
If you have /good/ stabilisation you'll find you can run and gun a standard to wide lens at 1/60 and if you can hold the thing still then down to 1/30 or less. But this does not freeze subject motion blur. Birds commonly want at least 1/500, they move suddenly and fast. Shutter speed is chosen for the photo, not just to get the exposure right. I have yet to find a camera that chooses the best shutter speed in A mode out of the box, the settings need fiddling with. Due to the way the NR works, a camera's optimum ISO is probably twice its base ISO. That Extended-Low ISO throws data away. At base ISO some of the signal is 'still in the noise', it will be clean but some of the data is lost. As the gain goes up further so the signal is pulled further up out of the noise and over the 'noise threshold'. As the gain (ISO) goes up further still so the noise creeps over the threshold. They all start to see some noise above 3200 but they should all shoot ISO3200 without batting an eyelid. The NR on a camera is usually pretty conservative and too aggressive, we can usually adjust it in several places.
Great video duder! I didn't think I'd learn anything new since I'm super comfortable with aperture priority but man was I wrong. I especially liked the bits on the photometry modes and the practical use of the AEL function. I already knew what they did but having examples of *when* to use them is super helpful.
Just found this video, not waffle at all. Super useful in fact. Especially photometry section beacuse you give example of when to use the different options. Thank you
Awesome tip! Love using aperture priority for street photography but struggle near sunset as all my photos come out blurry. Never knew I could set a base ISO and min shutter speed!!
On Fuji cameras this is a bit tricky. Even if you set minimum to 1/200 but other settings will not allow to take good photo (in camera opinion) camera will lower shutter speed. It won’t be a problem if you set max iso to 12800 - if there will be not enough light camera will just rise iso, but if you set max iso to for ex. 1600 in low light camera will overwrite min shutter speed set in auto iso settings. The only way to keep shutter not change is use shutter dial, but this way it’s not changing even when it’s needed;) it will just under or over expose. It’s a very useful tool I’m using but you have to be careful;) I have 3 modes: Auto 1: - Normal use / moving objects / people but not too fast min s - 1/160 Max iso 3200 Auto 2: - Night photography with IBIS and mostly not moving objects. This gives in low light really long times but still sharp image on still objects. Min s: auto Max iso: 12800 Auto 3: - Fast moving objects but not sports :) this needs much faster shutter speed like 1/500-1000 or more. Min s: 1/250 Max iso: 12800 All of this depends on lens of course and if you have IBIS / OIS or not. On wide lens it's much easier to make sharp photo not moving objects. For Fuji xf 23mm it's not a big problem to handhold sharp image on 1/60. For XF 18 even 1/40 (without IBIS / OIS).
@@zenstoodi You are correct. Fuji even mention it in the X-T4 owners manual: 'The camera may select shutter speeds slower than MIN. SHUTTER SPEED if pictures would still be underexposed at the value selected for MAX. SENSITIVITY.' It's a shame the camera doesn't at least alert you to this.
Very well structured information, definitely cleared things up for me as a newbie photographer! Thanks, I followed you everywhere! Кeep up the good work Roman!
Kudos to you man! I spent the evening binge watching your videos because they are so good! You're able to teach a lot of useful things in a very clear, understanble way. Needless to say I'm subscribed now.
Great video again. My photo outings may be in a temporary decline as I have more videos to watch, but then again that could be a long winter project. Re AEL & AFL , I have them set as " on/off switches" so I do not have to keep my finger on the button, especially in a case where I may have to have a glove on. A retired senior in the Niagara Falls region of Canada.
Right, Wilf S, that's exactly what I wanted to say. I also use the button the way you do so I don't need to keep my finger on it and risk to accidentally take it off and have to do it again.
Great video: teach me - and I'm a old Fuji X-pro1 user - to don't be afraid about Aperture Priority, Exposure Compensation and AEL lock... very instructive!!!
Thanks Roman- one of those rare, wonderfully complete videos that is about more than just the settings in the camera, but also tips for photography, composition, lighting conditions, etc. I’ve done so much manual that I need to practice this, especially for street. Three questions, one what setting(s) is EV changing with aperture priority? ISO? Shutter? Two, I assume if you hit a scene that your parameters (min/max) for ISO and shutter just wont work, that you switch to fully manual? Correct? Three, how do you lock AEL on Fuji X cameras like Roger in the comments? Thanks for you art and your patience! Geoff
There a ton of videos on YT about how one ought to use Aperture mode and the results of using the mode. But, they neglect to review the tips you went over in this video. Thanks for video - it improved my photography in tangible ways.
Hi Roman, what is the sense of setting the min ISO to 500? If it is too dark for shooting at 1/200 the camera would increase the ISO anyway. Also, are you sure that centre weighted metering follows the focus square? I know that spot metering does work like this but I'm not sure about centre weighted metering. Metering is overrated anyway. With mirrorless you get WYSIWYG, just look through your EVF or at your LCD and adjust exposure to your liking.
Great video 👍 I use the exposure compensation dial particularly for when I’m exposing for the sky in the background when shooting a portrait then I’ll use a flash to light up my subject in the foreground!! So I use the dial to a minus setting of around 2-3 stops of light
I agree with most things here - but regarding the exposure compensation - I do use it creatively. Changing the photometry settings is just not quick enough for me - especially these days when you have an EVF showing you the effect of your changes in real-time (including a histogram). For me training my brain to do different things in different metering modes just does not work. It's just a lot easier to be dynamic using exposure comp... e.g. I see someone and I decide that I want to make them a silhouette - I just roll my thumb on the exposure comp dial and they are immediately dark. Saves me going into having to think "what photometry setting do I want" and then "where shall I grab my meter my light from" and then missing the decisive moment. I guess it's my lizard brain "make thing darker"... "make thing lighter", These days I am trying to change my shooting style to shoot in Manual but with auto ISO.... I think these days because most people shoot in Aperture Priority we have got to a point where intentional movement in images is becoming rarer and therefore more interesting. I am struggling a little to train myself though.... you do have to think about how you want to achieve the exposure more.... Would love a tips video on shooting like that if you are looking for a video topic.
On my Sony a7 I use sunny 16 in manual mode for street photography. However, I have few custom buttons configured for other purposes, one of them to shoot in aperture mode when I hold it pressed. And this is not taking into account two additional custom modes on the dial.
Facts I shoot f4-f5 this creates layers and separates people occasionally I’ll open up the lens a bit more if I want to have more DOF however it makes the photo flat.
Great refresher on why to use Aperture Priority, I found it nice to revisit reasons for using it. The AEL button is (in my set-up) not easy to use as I prefer back-button focusing which I use predominantly for wildlife. Thanks for your informative videos... always a pleasure to watch and learn from!
Really nice video and well explained. My opinion on Center-weighted metering is that it exposes for the center of the frame regardless of where the focus square is located. I tested this numerous times with same result.
hmmm well I just move the square to any part of the image that I want to expose for. Pretty sure there is a setting somewhere that lets you toggle this
I've been taking photos for 3 years now, always working with M - mode. Jayzus.... your tutorials, Sir, are awesome! Passing knowledge and skills in a brilliant manner. All the best, cheers!
I use a Fuji X100V. I generally use 1/250th, f5.6 & let Auo iso rock up to 6400. Since I tend to shoot Monochrome with added grain it doesn't matter to me about high iso noise because my images are very (deliberately) grainy anyway. It's very freeing knowing that the camera is good to go at any time and I don't need to think about anything except the moment.
Great Video Roman, it made understanding Auto ISO a little easier! One question, of all 3 auto iso settings, which one would you use for indoor events such as a wedding reception, where the light could be low and there could also be a lot of movement (Dancing, etc) ? Thanks, Bob
Thank you for this video! One question. I have ‘interlock spot ae & focus area’ ON. This imo means that the metering is based on where I put the square (when using single point). This is easier than AEL but gives same result? Especially with B/W metering for whites or blacks.
Great tips all around and I really appreciate your informative videos;
However, as far as I know the Center-Weighted metering mode ignores the focus point (always evaluates the center of an image, regardless of the focus point) as that is exclusive to the Spot-Metering mode, according to the manual/online info I could gather and test myself. Would love to hear your thoughts on this one.
You are right. I got muddled up. Cheers for bringing it up!
True, there even is an additional setting for changing the latter, called „Interlock spot AE & Focus Area“ - although I think you would usually want to leave this on
@@snapsbyfox Yes, indeed what Emir DG said, but that's why using SPOT on a Fuji is really great. And, with the latest firmware upgrades of the X100V you can even set a dedicated 'toggle' button to switch between e.g. Multi (let's say that this is your default) and spot for these special moments. I'm using the front Fn2 button for "Spot metering lock" to achieve this.
Depends on the camera but yes usually that is correct
Also, spot metering is only tied to the AF point when: a) interlock spot AE & Focus Area = enabled and b) you're using single point AF. really I only use multi + spot
OMG - the Holy Guide to photography. Auto ISO, Apertures, Exposure Compensation, Photometry and Auto Exposure Lock CLEARLY explained. We amatures need to focus on these items to achieve a full enjoyment of the process. Don't under estimate of the value your videos have provided to us, the silent photographer!
This was extreamly helpful, especially the section on metering settings. I think for the first time, I understand that. Thanks!
I use AEL very often, but have it locked (click once to turn on, again to turn off) instead of needing to hold it manually like you showed in the video. That way I can expose once lock the exposure and take multiple images having the exact same exposure, thus creating photos that are more of a series
Hi! How do you do that? When I choose "AE Lock Only" as the setting for the AEL button it still requires me to hold it until the picture is taken. Am I maybe missing something?
@@garciaon Hey, I figured it out. you also have to go into SETUP->Button/Dial Setting->pg 2/2 AE/AF-LOCK MODE has to be set to 'on/off switch' That way when you assign a Fn Button to AE Lock Only, it does it.
@@liquidsn Dude thank you! I had been trying to find out how to do this for a while! 🤙🏼
@@HaiTomVlog Sorry, missed your question 🙈However, my settings are indeed having the AE/AF-LOCK MODE to on/off switch. And besides that, the AELAFL button to AE LOCK ONLY and the Rear Command Dial (pressing that wheel on the back) to AF LOCK ONLY. → This way you can always lock/fixate your exposure with a press of the AEL button, or your focus with pressing the wheel, separately! 👏
And, if you appoint a button (e.g. Fn2: I'm using that little button on the front for this) to SPOT METERING LOCK, you can easily move into a different metering mode; Spot metering. This allows for very precise targeting where to calculate exposure on. Together with AE LOCK, you can then toggle this SPOT METERING to be able to "aim" where you want to lock your exposure on, based on specific things in your frame. So then, the way of working would be:
1) Enable SPOT METERING
2) Aim for where to lock the exposure on to
3) Lock with AE LOCK
Good idea. That also will then allow you to use Back button auto focus since you can't hold down 2 buttons at the same time with your thumb if it wasn't set to be a toggle instead of having to keep it pressed down. I think it deepens on the camera model to see if that is possible to make it a toggle or not though....
Thank You Roman.
First channel I have seen to explain the metering modes, and more importantly, When, to consider making a change.
That is my learning for today,
Cheers !!
Nice one! Glad I could help
@@snapsbyfox
Now I have to put these bits and pieces together and Practice 😎
Probably the best video I've watched on the topic. Really well explained. It covers all the basics. Sample photos. Really usefull man, keep going.
I’m a big fan of aperture propriety, especially when shooting fast paced scenes like kids, dogs, and weddings. The exposure lock is going to help so much! Thank you, Roman.
Once I finally got my Tamron 2.8, I always felt that I had to shoot portraits or single items on 2.8...but sometimes the images were too soft. I now have the confidence to shoot them on 4, and the images are lovely! Another great lesson on my photography journey! Thank you so much! From a very grateful 60+ year old lady. I have subscribed x
When you think about it, you kinda' buy a f2.8 so f4 is in optimum range, because if you bought an f4 it would be wide open and not at an optimum aperture... f8 would 5.6 or better would be.
This is literally the most helpful video that I have watched in last couple of years. Thank you so much for helping us that don't have all the knowledge yet. Keep up with great job!
AE-L is HUGE shooting outdoor candids at weddings. Because everything is fast moving AND you're usually using flash, expose for the sky and lock it, then recompose the people and TTL flash. The sky will be nice and blue, clouds will show up nicely, and the people will POP!
Great tip!
Everything summed up perfectly and easy to understand. Thanks for another terrific tutorial. I think I am finally getting my camera tweaked to where it needs to be, and understanding exactly why.
Another great video Roman. So clear and easy to understand. Should be mandatory watching for all starting out with this little black box. RUclips videos by good guys like you turned me into a born again photographer. Thanks so much.
Glad you mentioned A(uto) E(xposure) L(ock) as it's crucial to using Aperture Priority correctly. If AEL isn't engaged when establishing focus the exposure won't be locked in so if you recompose, the camera's meter will go with the reading that it takes from wherever your camera ends up pointing before you take the shot. Aperture Priority is fantastic. I love it.
The oracle. Love your videos, Roman. You make us what to take photos and strive for better. We’re sitting on a plethora of customisation and you help us navigate these options. Without your videos, my XT cameras would be used to about 25% of their potential. Cheers man. Keep doing your stuff.
This was a very helpful video and it got me re-thinking my approaches.
For me, the ‘Photometry’ penny dropped some time ago when I realised it was just Fujifilm’s way of saying “Photometering” aka Light Metering. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so clever and so stupid at the same time…
Thanks to this video I’m going to start using that AEL button more often!
One of the best videos of its kind I've seen. That goes for many of your videos, Roman, I have to say(!), but this was outstanding. Having used a Lumix FZ2500 (bridge) camera for a couple of years, very happily, I have for several reasons acquired a Fujifilm X-T5. A big part of that decision was based on your discussion of the custom modes that you can set on the X-T5, which weren't available on the Lumix. A bit of background goss: I discovered your channel in 2022, a couple of weeks after I discovered James Popsys. I then discovered that you're mates, and have been following both of you ever since. Many thanks!
Thank you for the great video! At 12:46, you mention the Center Weighted setting and say something like, "the center point is where the focus is," but that's not quite accurate. According to the manual, "The camera meters the entire frame but assigns the greatest weight to the area at the center." I checked it out, and I agree with the manual-it doesn't depend on your focus point. Only in Spot mode does the camera meter exposure based on the focus point.
Oh, sorry. I should have checked the comments, but there are 310 of them. There is one that is relevant to the topic.
Great video
The only thing I don't agree on is that lenses are the sharpest between f8 and f11 or midrange through their aparture value. This is not true anymore at the high resolution sensors of today's camera as diffraction appears earlier and making the picture soft again. Sharpest nowadays should be roughly around F5.6
Very useful tutorial thank you. I’m a street photographer with a Fuji XT5. My first outing with it, Notting Hill Carnival !) , was a cloudy day yet many of my shots were under exposed. Poor use of the exposure compensation control. My second outing, (Brick Lane), was a sunny day yet no less challenging. The custom control on this dial is very useful for on the fly adjustments. Yet I still over did it. Your comment about small adjustments was very helpful.Thanks again.
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
Crazy how much valuable content you publish on a regular basis (for free)... Nice video as always with good information
Greetings from Germany 👍
Thank you for the excellent primer/refresher course on using the camera to your advantage. I happen to photograph with a Fuji and have enjoyed making photographs for about the last 50 years. We learn something new everyday! Thanks again and good luck to you in your endeavors
Cheers!
Thanks
Helped me get my head around a few things, great content. Least I can do is get you a ☕️
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
Phenomenal video. I’ve been shooting in Manual since my first film camera in the early 2000’s. The last year I’ve started exploring aperture priority, this video is what I needed to see about 20 years ago 😂. Understanding the exposure triangle is great, but I’ve spent so much time fumbling with my settings instead of getting the shot. Thank you.
If you have /good/ stabilisation you'll find you can run and gun a standard to wide lens at 1/60 and if you can hold the thing still then down to 1/30 or less. But this does not freeze subject motion blur. Birds commonly want at least 1/500, they move suddenly and fast. Shutter speed is chosen for the photo, not just to get the exposure right. I have yet to find a camera that chooses the best shutter speed in A mode out of the box, the settings need fiddling with.
Due to the way the NR works, a camera's optimum ISO is probably twice its base ISO. That Extended-Low ISO throws data away. At base ISO some of the signal is 'still in the noise', it will be clean but some of the data is lost. As the gain goes up further so the signal is pulled further up out of the noise and over the 'noise threshold'. As the gain (ISO) goes up further still so the noise creeps over the threshold. They all start to see some noise above 3200 but they should all shoot ISO3200 without batting an eyelid. The NR on a camera is usually pretty conservative and too aggressive, we can usually adjust it in several places.
Great tips! Exposure comp in Fuji doesn't work when fully manual. It only works when in auto or priority a/s modes, as I've recently learned.
Great video duder! I didn't think I'd learn anything new since I'm super comfortable with aperture priority but man was I wrong. I especially liked the bits on the photometry modes and the practical use of the AEL function. I already knew what they did but having examples of *when* to use them is super helpful.
Thanks for the tip re Spot Metering, that works a treat for street in the winter sun. Metering Mode is a thing I've neglected over the years.
I am new to photography and videography and have watched tons of videos but this by far simplified everything I been struggling with thanks a bunch
Just bought my Fuji xt-30II, can't thank you enough for your advices. Keep them coming
Just getting a bit more into photography and the last two settings explanation was really useful, that's what i was missing.
Just found this video, not waffle at all. Super useful in fact. Especially photometry section beacuse you give example of when to use the different options. Thank you
Best of Aperture Priority Videos I’ve seen so far. Great advice. Thx for sharing.
Excellent summary/review of a modern camera basic settings and menu presets - especially Fuji Film.
Awesome tip! Love using aperture priority for street photography but struggle near sunset as all my photos come out blurry. Never knew I could set a base ISO and min shutter speed!!
yeah, that's why it was blurry, change that and you should hopefully see an improvement :)
On Fuji cameras this is a bit tricky. Even if you set minimum to 1/200 but other settings will not allow to take good photo (in camera opinion) camera will lower shutter speed. It won’t be a problem if you set max iso to 12800 - if there will be not enough light camera will just rise iso, but if you set max iso to for ex. 1600 in low light camera will overwrite min shutter speed set in auto iso settings. The only way to keep shutter not change is use shutter dial, but this way it’s not changing even when it’s needed;) it will just under or over expose. It’s a very useful tool I’m using but you have to be careful;)
I have 3 modes:
Auto 1: - Normal use / moving objects / people but not too fast
min s - 1/160
Max iso 3200
Auto 2: - Night photography with IBIS and mostly not moving objects. This gives in low light really long times but still sharp image on still objects.
Min s: auto
Max iso: 12800
Auto 3: - Fast moving objects but not sports :) this needs much faster shutter speed like 1/500-1000 or more.
Min s: 1/250
Max iso: 12800
All of this depends on lens of course and if you have IBIS / OIS or not. On wide lens it's much easier to make sharp photo not moving objects.
For Fuji xf 23mm it's not a big problem to handhold sharp image on 1/60. For XF 18 even 1/40 (without IBIS / OIS).
@@zenstoodi You are correct. Fuji even mention it in the X-T4 owners manual:
'The camera may select shutter speeds slower than MIN. SHUTTER SPEED if pictures would still be underexposed at the value selected for MAX. SENSITIVITY.'
It's a shame the camera doesn't at least alert you to this.
many thanks for explaining Apeture setting so well and without being annoying like many other people!!
Very well structured information, definitely cleared things up for me as a newbie photographer! Thanks, I followed you everywhere! Кeep up the good work Roman!
I will try the metering settings. Thanks man great video!
Kudos to you man! I spent the evening binge watching your videos because they are so good! You're able to teach a lot of useful things in a very clear, understanble way. Needless to say I'm subscribed now.
You taught me in 18 minutes more than my math teacher, god and my grandma together in all my life. Thank you
Mate, Love It, it's like a quick workshop on practical issue and easy, easy to understand
Thank you for this. Gives me some motivation and tips of what I need to do. My next lesson at the camera club is aperture priority mode so thank you
Great precise and no bull s**t information.
subscribed!!
thank you for that very explosive explanation of many elements on the Fuji Film camera, awesome ...
This is the best how-to primer I have ever seen. Thanks so much for sharing.
Great video again. My photo outings may be in a temporary decline as I have more videos to watch, but then again that could be a long winter project. Re AEL & AFL , I have them set as " on/off switches" so I do not have to keep my finger on the button, especially in a case where I may have to have a glove on. A retired senior in the Niagara Falls region of Canada.
Right, Wilf S, that's exactly what I wanted to say. I also use the button the way you do so I don't need to keep my finger on it and risk to accidentally take it off and have to do it again.
PS. Roman: Great vídeos, loving it all. Thank you so much.
Thanks! The last two tips are excellent. Only thing left to do is remember to practise them while out shooting. Probably best to take some notes...
Dude, your photos look absolutely amazing! Great tips & very clear explanation too. Cheers.
top tips i have just sorted out my X-T5 & X-T2 bless you!
Great video: teach me - and I'm a old Fuji X-pro1 user - to don't be afraid about Aperture Priority, Exposure Compensation and AEL lock... very instructive!!!
Thanks Roman- one of those rare, wonderfully complete videos that is about more than just the settings in the camera, but also tips for photography, composition, lighting conditions, etc. I’ve done so much manual that I need to practice this, especially for street. Three questions, one what setting(s) is EV changing with aperture priority? ISO? Shutter? Two, I assume if you hit a scene that your parameters (min/max) for ISO and shutter just wont work, that you switch to fully manual? Correct? Three, how do you lock AEL on Fuji X cameras like Roger in the comments? Thanks for you art and your patience! Geoff
Your sample photos look awesome. Thanks for the tutorial.
There a ton of videos on YT about how one ought to use Aperture mode and the results of using the mode. But, they neglect to review the tips you went over in this video. Thanks for video - it improved my photography in tangible ways.
Thanks, I am still a bit vague on how to use the photometry and AEL functions, but I will study it. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Auto ISO settings are spot on Roman...a great help for the day to day photography.
Hi Roman, what is the sense of setting the min ISO to 500? If it is too dark for shooting at 1/200 the camera would increase the ISO anyway.
Also, are you sure that centre weighted metering follows the focus square? I know that spot metering does work like this but I'm not sure about centre weighted metering.
Metering is overrated anyway. With mirrorless you get WYSIWYG, just look through your EVF or at your LCD and adjust exposure to your liking.
Great video 👍 I use the exposure compensation dial particularly for when I’m exposing for the sky in the background when shooting a portrait then I’ll use a flash to light up my subject in the foreground!! So I use the dial to a minus setting of around 2-3 stops of light
I agree with most things here - but regarding the exposure compensation - I do use it creatively. Changing the photometry settings is just not quick enough for me - especially these days when you have an EVF showing you the effect of your changes in real-time (including a histogram). For me training my brain to do different things in different metering modes just does not work. It's just a lot easier to be dynamic using exposure comp... e.g. I see someone and I decide that I want to make them a silhouette - I just roll my thumb on the exposure comp dial and they are immediately dark. Saves me going into having to think "what photometry setting do I want" and then "where shall I grab my meter my light from" and then missing the decisive moment. I guess it's my lizard brain "make thing darker"... "make thing lighter", These days I am trying to change my shooting style to shoot in Manual but with auto ISO.... I think these days because most people shoot in Aperture Priority we have got to a point where intentional movement in images is becoming rarer and therefore more interesting. I am struggling a little to train myself though.... you do have to think about how you want to achieve the exposure more.... Would love a tips video on shooting like that if you are looking for a video topic.
I use AEL and hold on my Nikon D700, and love it, so easy.
I've learned more about fine tuning my XT4 in 18:02 than I have in the last six months on my own. Thank you Roman!
Dude this is literally the most helpful video I've found in the past 4 years. Thank you!
Really great video, as I try to navigate the Fujifilm Xs10
All great explained. It helped me a lot to understand some features of my camera. I’ll put them into practice!
On my Sony a7 I use sunny 16 in manual mode for street photography. However, I have few custom buttons configured for other purposes, one of them to shoot in aperture mode when I hold it pressed. And this is not taking into account two additional custom modes on the dial.
Thank you Roman, for your clear explanation in this video.
I’ll surely take better images now.
Facts I shoot f4-f5 this creates layers and separates people occasionally I’ll open up the lens a bit more if I want to have more DOF however it makes the photo flat.
I was always avoiding using ael button, so thank you so much!
Hi, I am just getting into photography, and I love your content a lot, it just resonates with me.
Thank You for the great tips and your insight Roman.
Absolutely fantastic, thank you sooo much!
The photometry and AEL portion of this video was very helpful to me as an "A" priority shooter! Thanks Roman!
Great refresher on why to use Aperture Priority, I found it nice to revisit reasons for using it. The AEL button is (in my set-up) not easy to use as I prefer back-button focusing which I use predominantly for wildlife. Thanks for your informative videos... always a pleasure to watch and learn from!
Tips are great!!!! Extremely informative!! I watch a ton of these and you're breakdowns are spot on!! Definitely hitting the bell!! ty
Your tutorials are unvaluable. Tks
Fabulous video, very clear and precise, and very informative. Well done! look forward to seeing more.
Just wanna say you are awesome. Thanks for these videos I learn a lot
You are a great teacher. Thank you for making this video for us.
Hi Roman. Great video (like your other ones I have watched). The suggested aperture values apply to APSC or full frame cameras? Regards, Krzysztof
Have been starting to play with spot metering and AEL. Such a practical vid! Thanks, Roman
Hi from Paris. Thank you so much for these settings and explanations. Very useful. As always, very good content. Thx Roman!
I have multi metering and also whole screen average. Which one is better for street photography?
Thanks Roman. There was a lot of helpful information in such a short amount of time. I am taking notes.
Madness you have shots of my home town on here, deal pier!
This is a great video. Thank you for this. The auto iso setting are so clutch.
It’s more important to freeze action via shutter speed than aperture mode which might give you a slow shutter speed.
Really nice video and well explained. My opinion on Center-weighted metering is that it exposes for the center of the frame regardless of where the focus square is located. I tested this numerous times with same result.
hmmm well I just move the square to any part of the image that I want to expose for. Pretty sure there is a setting somewhere that lets you toggle this
I've been taking photos for 3 years now, always working with M - mode. Jayzus.... your tutorials, Sir, are awesome! Passing knowledge and skills in a brilliant manner. All the best, cheers!
I use a Fuji X100V. I generally use 1/250th, f5.6 & let Auo iso rock up to 6400. Since I tend to shoot Monochrome with added grain it doesn't matter to me about high iso noise because my images are very (deliberately) grainy anyway.
It's very freeing knowing that the camera is good to go at any time and I don't need to think about anything except the moment.
Very nice explanation, thanks, helped me a lot to understand those things.
nice information, but why my Sony Alfa 7 II is not allowing to tune shutter limit 1/200 to set in aperture modeas you said. please reply.
Great Video Roman, it made understanding Auto ISO a little easier! One question, of all 3 auto iso settings, which one would you use for indoor events such as a wedding reception, where the light could be low and there could also be a lot of movement (Dancing, etc) ? Thanks, Bob
Bob
Thank you for this video! One question. I have ‘interlock spot ae & focus area’ ON. This imo means that the metering is based on where I put the square (when using single point). This is easier than AEL but gives same result? Especially with B/W metering for whites or blacks.
Wow I learned a lot just from this video, nice work! Really appreciate the tips you gave us :)
Very informative video that is clear and easy to understand. Love your accent, are you from South Africa?
Roman, great video. Thank you for the information!
Thanks for sharing.. great video & comments explaining settings for optimal results... cheers 😀
Watched the whole things and learned so much from this thank you so much! ❤
Great recommendations on auto setting support A priority.
Can’t wait to try all this out! I didn’t know what half of these things did.
Thanks for the great metering explanation. Gotta try and get to grips with those in practice now.