@@ellwoodwolf Nah, the +R mode is Honda engineers looking for that slight better lap time without getting new parts. They cranked up the damping to act like artificial springs as they're the same springs from the FK8. The excessive damping slows down the body roll in a turn so it's good for quick transitions, but packs up the damper in hits or long sweepers. Wish Honda just spent the extra $250 per car and just changed the spring to match what they're trying to do but the car was already expensive already. But as a Type R solution the Type S Integra uses the exact same hardware but is tuned differently, and can swap the suspension control module.
@@ellwoodwolf honestly hard suspension doesn't mean fast just like that. it needs to be soft enough to absorb the unevenness of the ground and hard enough to not give out under the loads when turning/breaking and accelerating, and translate the weight to the tires and utalize more of the available grip. having stiff suspension only impresses people who don't know anything about suspension.
As a FK8 owner, I heavily discourage you to get a FK8/FL5 to be your daily + weekend racer. The cooling issues Ben talked about, are not fixed by simple solutions like a different radiator. Be prepared to sink over $5,000 in mods and time into the platform, just to be able to go a few more laps. There are many owners, who get real with the issue and tell you not to get one, if you want to race them. The overheating issues are not due to a small radiator or something like that- the engine bays are simply too cramped for the turbocharged K20C1. Mind you, it's pushing 320+ HP from a 2 liter, so it's the turbo doing the heavy lifting. If you put that hot turbo AND CAT UNDER the intake charge pipes and IN BETWEEN the engine and the heat exchangers, you WILL get heat soak. A bigger radiator will only worsen this issue, because now you decreased the airflow to the engine bay to cool other components. Like I said, it's not an easy "slap some mods and call it a day" problem. This is a "this platform is silly" kind of problem. You need at least a engine hood with major cooling vents, at least one external oil cooler (2 is better...) another front mask with bigger opening for airflow, wrap on the intake charge pipe (no turbo or exhaust blanket- you need the airflow to cool it) and CAT delete to make a real difference. Guys, I'm not hating on the Type R- it is the best (stock) FWD sports car for the street. When I got mine, I was laughing in joy, all the way back home, carving through the country roads. But it is not for the track- as is. I don't consider a car, that can only do 5 laps, before it goes into limp mode a "track car". There are many cars, that you can slap a bigger radiator, oil cooler on and prop the hood in the rear and have fun all day. This ain't it.
What kind of air temps are you running in? I just did three sessions of 25’ each at a Pitt Race in a pretty stock FL5, just water wetter in the coolant. Never saw water temp over 195. But it was 60°F out…
It's consumers who did this. Slide my seat with effort? no motor. Raise my seat with effort? no motor. Turn on my own lights? No computer. Turn on my own wipers? No computer. Flip my own rear view mirror? No computer. Stay iny own lane ? No computer park my car by paying attention? No computer..... See where I'm going with this ...
The more and more EPA and safety regulations that are required, the more modules will be needed. And as the last person said as well, the more comfort functions that are wanted by consumers, the more engineers will have to add more modules to have everything communicate with each other because if you live your seat the airbag modules will have to know how much to deploy.
from an engineering perspective, compute power has gotten so insane now that it's actually quite difficult to implement only essentials. its way easier and cheaper to justify to the consumer rather than make a bespoke chip + board setup.
@@ellwoodwolf i agree with you but some things are def regulations. mostly for safety like all the airbags, driving aids, sos and stuff like that. its just annoying for someone like us who has to fix systems even if we don't use these systems like the abs wich in some cases people remove.
It's always incredible to me that a track focused car from the factory that a host of engineers designed still has parts on it that can be made better. But then I remember how much the automotive industry is focused on cost more than it is prefromance a lot of times. Super cool to see the ways these cars can be made better!
Of course they haven’t put the absolute best you can buy on as OEM equipment, no one would pay the 10s of thousands more the car would cost if Honda put the best they could on it. The current price is already a bit of a joke for a front wheel drive Honda.
Every vehicle has a compromise of some sort. It could come with all aluminum suspension components or have carbon hatch, roof, hood and such but the price would push this over 6 figures.
Well then pony up and get something better from the factory. No best of the best is gonna be 50 grand. And of course these companies focus more on cost, so they can pay their employees and manufacturing. People want "living wages" after all right? Do you know why I know this? Cuz I worked for a living bro.
everyone is saying battery, yes after a replacement you will get the safety lights but that will go away with driving around for literally 30s to a minute or letting your car sit outside in the open for a minute as well, if the battery replacement doesn’t get rid of the lights, check the CAMERA on the windshield, usually a faulty camera will set those lights on the dash, i work at ACURA, they’re all the same at end of the day
17:36 - The poor guy needed goddamn iHDS to fix this issue. For the uninitiated, that's Honda's factory scan tool software. This is the stuff that scares me about modern cars because most independent shops are not going to go through that level of trouble. They will send you to the dealer, and I wouldn't blame them either. It means you're likely at the mercy of your local dealer if your car is plagued with warning lights. Hell, just changing the 12V battery on a 2024 Accord triggered a ridiculous amount of warning lights that I had to clear with iHDS.
I wonder how deep he had to go to fix the issue. If it was a true wiring or broken sensor issue or if it just was an incorrectly calibrated steering angle. Since on my $110 Launch scanner, I accidently reset the VSA steering calibration and basically steering, hill assist brake, cruise control, steering assist, ABS, TPMS and a few other faults came up. 😂 Reset the steering angle and it cleared itself but I was shocked at how many errors it pulled.
@GearsandGasoline should have brought it to my shop, my job is mainly to fix issues like these. We get customers from other hondas bringing them to us cause theirs can't figure it out
Yep. My Mk 7R requires a reset in the computer, so it adjusts charging current to match the new battery. It's also necessary to reprogram the battery manufacturer and type (AGM, flooded cell, etc), and the cranking amps.
Did you register the battery replacement? Some cars have ibs (intelligent battery sensors) on them and if you don't reset it it can sometimes throw codes or over charge the battery. So I'd check that if it's not that then just check the terminals make sure they're tight and clean of corrosion.
If you are going through the trouble to corner balance, you should do it with the driver sitting in the car (or use a weight ballast) so the cross weights are even with you in it. Otherwise, nice job!
@@caffeinefix2751it’s far more compliant. Really no need to change to coilovers. If you are on the fence, do the module first then decide. The module is not expensive.
Dude I had a 1993 Alfa 164, I swear to god that think had a control module for the 6 cigarette lighters in it. 6 lighters and ashtrays in a car that seats 5, gotta love the Italians.
I had this glut of warnings happen on my 2017 Type R after it got incorrectly towed with 2 wheels down and it took about 50 miles of driving it before it learned nothing was wrong and the warnings dropped off. Gotta love new cars.
Seems so far there's AST/Moton and Fortune Auto being the only ones going to a full coilover instead of the stock divorced setup in the rear. Hopefully they've done their testing but not too hopeful if Fortune Auto is selling the version 2 hat but are on version 3 of their top hat design likely due to a failure. Wonder what kind of spring rates they did install.
Hi Ben, many of the oscillation that happen in civic is due to misaligned subframe. with spoon rigid collars, it will reduce/eliminate springing effect from the chassis. currently running stock setup daily in R+ without harshness. it will pair great with the coilovers. congrats!!
The “annoying offset bolts” is the superior way to adjust camber. Reason is that it maintains the same length of the arms on both sides of the car. If you only adjust those turn buckles, it will make the arms different lengths each side, which can lead to unpredictable differences in left vs right turn handling properties. Use the turn buckles for the “gross” adjustment, to get it in the ballpark of where you need the camber. But make sure they’re the same length on both sides. Then use the factory eccentric bolts to dial it in and equalize the camber on both sides of the car.
Literally just met you guys in the Walmart parking lot in Lenoir City, TN. Nice to meet you guys and talk shop for a minute!! Definitely gained a new viewer/subscriber!!
Checking the tread wear, then talking in "half of 32nds..." what? My brain being from other part of the world cannot overcome it. I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D . But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done! Thanks for the content!
looks so good.... FL5 want stronger than ever before - 100% agreed dark grey/gunmetal wheels vs. the blue. It's coming along nicely. Great work guys! Enjoying the series
I am always hesitant using coilovers on cars with spring and shock setup because a lot of the times, the shock mounting points are not reinforced enough to take the weight of the vehicle.
Most every car comes with a spring and shock setup though. Almost anyone who adds coilovers to their car is replacing the basic spring and shock setup and its fine.
I must say I am very impressed with this video thank you..I plan on getting one of these and lots of info I’m glad I seen and things you did as well as parts so thank you..very entertaining keep it up and I wish you continued success in your videos and channel as you have gained another sub 🙌🏽💪🏽🙏🏽
😂 “beep beep beep” dead as fuck loved that he torqued to spec!! The Ben’s crack me up. Don’t forget the “Ugg a dugga” when putting the wheels back on! I love this channel keep up the great entertainment boys.
This time of the year is the best time of the year for viewers. We get to see companies pushing “no budget” builds…builds that 99.9% of people will never be able to achieve…to get ready to showcase at SEMA.
Did you guys consider trying the Integra Type-S damper control module? I swapped one into my own FL5 TypeR and it made the car slightly softer for street driving. It was inexpensive and easy to swap in.
I always use a really long bar positioned under the subframe and over the lower arm to pull the balljoint lose. Works way safer and easier than any balljoint tool.
I put a new intake on my ‘18 SI I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor and got every dash light too. Even for unrelated stuff like traction control parking brake etc. gotta love modern Honda computers
12:30 I just noticed you're using zipties. If you ever plan on taking this car to the track, replace them with hose clamps. First hand experience, too much heat will expand those zip ties and the module will become loose and eventually fall out.
Please watch a few videos on corner balance. Another solution to the shock simulator is to get a module out of a non electronic shock car. So same year civic non r. Got a little of that tissim in the shop there.
Ben, Bud, you could've just swapped the CTR suspension module to an ITS module and got the ITS' softer suspension on your ctr-- provided you didn't already do this and I'm behind on this build.
Nah, they didn't change the ADS module. One of their main sponsors is Fortune Auto and why that's the only coilovers they put in their cars. I'm not convinced though going to a true coilover in the rear is the best idea especially seeing their still messing with the top hat design to spread even more load so it doesn't punch out the body. And part of it is they wanted to lower the car anyway.
@@Vermonstered That's fair, I know they're pals with Fortune Auto-- who are a great coilover company-- so that makes sense. Still wish they'd make coils for my car though. :T
@@thegirthquake8574 FA is good in the sense you can rebuild them and always get support but they use off the self Chineseium parts. Most of the European suspension companies products will likely be better in terms of damping geared toward ride quality if available. Otherwise a simple Koni yellow with their adjustable spring collars might have enough height and damping adjustment for you with a quality strut.
Dude, same. Except for me, I have the Veloster N. Shit rides harsh. Other owners have said it rides fine but I think that's just cope. Upgraded to KW V3s and I couldn't believe how much better they are along with a significantly better handling once you dial in everything else from alignment and tire pressures to the compression and rebound.
I had the same issue with my civic with every light turning on the dash and I just hard reset the system and have had no issues. Common issue to have every light go on. Sometimes a Google search can save u lots of time.
3:25 One of those tools trashed a good ball joint for me, it was seized in and the pressure managed to bend the threaded section, wouldn't thread back on, and the ball joint was cast into the arm, so an expensive mistake for a cheap tool. I just use a prybar and hammer ever since.
My (personal) opinion on ride height is simple: if you can't get your lift arms under the car, it's too low. If you can barely squeak it under by grabbing the fender and giving it some help, it's the perfect height.
The adjustability of the stock suspension is brilliant. Honda did an amazing job of balancing performance with comfort IMO -- I definitely don't find it too stiff. Also seems like sacrilege to replace something Honda spent thousands of hours and probably millions developing.
Personally, I would have gone with Koni Yellows and either H&R or Tein for softer springs. I am surprised that you aren't running Advan tires to match the wheels, and that you haven't touched the exhaust... yet.
I would have gone with an adjustable KW V3 suspension which also retains the divorce setup at the rear. That way you can get a softer ride for the street and a firmer ride at the track with just dialing some clicks for bump and rebound. And you can also alter the ride height of course. If you like it a bit more hardcore there is also a "Clubsport" version of this suspension.
you can just install the acura type s dynamic damper controller (plug and play) and the dynamic damper settings are worlds better for track use and daily use. the fk8 was the same way with the le vs standard damper controller
You always need to recalibrate your sensors when rebuilding a newer vehicle even if the front bumper comes off, just for something small, needs recalibration.
Single radiator on a car is a no-no. Upgrade with a dual radiator fan system asap, helps with cooling in car jams and on highspeed or high pressure temperatures on the car...
I wonder how my driving compares to yours. I've tracked my FL5 MANY times and never had an overheating issue. And mine's stock. Outside of track pads, brake fluid, and track wheels, it's stock
Pretty sure its the oil temp thats the main problem on the fl5? Probably coolant too but i remember seeing multiple nurburgring laps of them hitting 150c oil temp within a lap
i'm wondering why you didn't just go the (i think better) route and just swap out the type r adaptive suspension module for the one from the integra type s? still handles just as great as the type r but it's much more compliant on the street so you don't break your back on every bump.
So what was the fix for all the lights? Re programming the key? Ride height is too low. For a more street car, did you look into the Integra Type S suspension module? Obviously the coil overs are better for track driving...
More camber in the rear and less in the front, how is that going to improve turn in? I find you can run more camber in the front, you just need to make sure you have zero toe. Increasing caster also helps a lot with turn in and steering feel. Seems a shame to buy such an expensive car and then have to do so many modifications, I though the whole point of buying a car like this is because it is so good as is? I mean you could modify many cars and modify them for better track performance so...
Installing coilovers for a softer ride... what a world we live in...
He's getting soft.
@@ellwoodwolf Nah, the +R mode is Honda engineers looking for that slight better lap time without getting new parts. They cranked up the damping to act like artificial springs as they're the same springs from the FK8. The excessive damping slows down the body roll in a turn so it's good for quick transitions, but packs up the damper in hits or long sweepers. Wish Honda just spent the extra $250 per car and just changed the spring to match what they're trying to do but the car was already expensive already. But as a Type R solution the Type S Integra uses the exact same hardware but is tuned differently, and can swap the suspension control module.
I mean when you have professional drivers saying the suspension setup in +R mode is horrible, why wouldn’t you fix the problem?
^
@@ellwoodwolf honestly hard suspension doesn't mean fast just like that. it needs to be soft enough to absorb the unevenness of the ground and hard enough to not give out under the loads when turning/breaking and accelerating, and translate the weight to the tires and utalize more of the available grip. having stiff suspension only impresses people who don't know anything about suspension.
tfw the dash says "see your dealer" but you own a racecar and can't afford drugs
😂
A CTR is not a race car.
there isnt a message that says see your dealer. a car needing repairs isnt the cause for someone needing drugs. dumbass post
poop shit huyndai bull shit ads shit junk as hole huyndai shit
The R stands for racing? Why is it not?
As a FK8 owner, I heavily discourage you to get a FK8/FL5 to be your daily + weekend racer.
The cooling issues Ben talked about, are not fixed by simple solutions like a different radiator. Be prepared to sink over $5,000 in mods and time into the platform, just to be able to go a few more laps.
There are many owners, who get real with the issue and tell you not to get one, if you want to race them.
The overheating issues are not due to a small radiator or something like that- the engine bays are simply too cramped for the turbocharged K20C1.
Mind you, it's pushing 320+ HP from a 2 liter, so it's the turbo doing the heavy lifting. If you put that hot turbo AND CAT UNDER the intake charge pipes and IN BETWEEN the engine and the heat exchangers, you WILL get heat soak.
A bigger radiator will only worsen this issue, because now you decreased the airflow to the engine bay to cool other components.
Like I said, it's not an easy "slap some mods and call it a day" problem. This is a "this platform is silly" kind of problem.
You need at least a engine hood with major cooling vents, at least one external oil cooler (2 is better...) another front mask with bigger opening for airflow, wrap on the intake charge pipe (no turbo or exhaust blanket- you need the airflow to cool it) and CAT delete to make a real difference.
Guys, I'm not hating on the Type R- it is the best (stock) FWD sports car for the street. When I got mine, I was laughing in joy, all the way back home, carving through the country roads. But it is not for the track- as is. I don't consider a car, that can only do 5 laps, before it goes into limp mode a "track car".
There are many cars, that you can slap a bigger radiator, oil cooler on and prop the hood in the rear and have fun all day. This ain't it.
Interesting
What kind of air temps are you running in? I just did three sessions of 25’ each at a Pitt Race in a pretty stock FL5, just water wetter in the coolant. Never saw water temp over 195. But it was 60°F out…
You said what I was having in mind. It's not a radiator issue, it's a fight against physics issue.
Damnn i guess i'll stick to my s2k
What are some other "cheap" sports cars that don't fundamentally have cooling issues?
I wonder how much cheaper modern cars would be if they only had the essential computers to make the car run.
Aka the regulators stayed out of it
It's consumers who did this. Slide my seat with effort? no motor. Raise my seat with effort? no motor. Turn on my own lights? No computer. Turn on my own wipers? No computer. Flip my own rear view mirror? No computer. Stay iny own lane ? No computer park my car by paying attention? No computer..... See where I'm going with this ...
The more and more EPA and safety regulations that are required, the more modules will be needed. And as the last person said as well, the more comfort functions that are wanted by consumers, the more engineers will have to add more modules to have everything communicate with each other because if you live your seat the airbag modules will have to know how much to deploy.
from an engineering perspective, compute power has gotten so insane now that it's actually quite difficult to implement only essentials. its way easier and cheaper to justify to the consumer rather than make a bespoke chip + board setup.
@@ellwoodwolf i agree with you but some things are def regulations. mostly for safety like all the airbags, driving aids, sos and stuff like that. its just annoying for someone like us who has to fix systems even if we don't use these systems like the abs wich in some cases people remove.
It's always incredible to me that a track focused car from the factory that a host of engineers designed still has parts on it that can be made better. But then I remember how much the automotive industry is focused on cost more than it is prefromance a lot of times. Super cool to see the ways these cars can be made better!
Of course they haven’t put the absolute best you can buy on as OEM equipment, no one would pay the 10s of thousands more the car would cost if Honda put the best they could on it. The current price is already a bit of a joke for a front wheel drive Honda.
I mean people still find ways to make $250k porsches faster on track than factory- see Manthey Performance
Every vehicle has a compromise of some sort. It could come with all aluminum suspension components or have carbon hatch, roof, hood and such but the price would push this over 6 figures.
That can be said for many factory track focused cars. Porsche GT3RS comes to mind. Lots of aftermarket damper kits for that car.
Well then pony up and get something better from the factory. No best of the best is gonna be 50 grand. And of course these companies focus more on cost, so they can pay their employees and manufacturing. People want "living wages" after all right? Do you know why I know this? Cuz I worked for a living bro.
"half a 32nd" makes my eu brain hurt
He should have read it as 64ths at that point
I was just thinking, TF is a half a 32nd
Americans use anything but the metric system
Same, I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D .
But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done
The imperial system is stupid
Bens got a new daily, you know what that means fellas - It'll be on Cars & Bids next week. 🤣
Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuup
Lets be real. Bens real daily is the F150 haha 😂
I love that Cam was named Camera from birth its like he was born to do this job
everyone is saying battery, yes after a replacement you will get the safety lights but that will go away with driving around for literally 30s to a minute or letting your car sit outside in the open for a minute as well, if the battery replacement doesn’t get rid of the lights, check the CAMERA on the windshield, usually a faulty camera will set those lights on the dash, i work at ACURA, they’re all the same at end of the day
17:36 - The poor guy needed goddamn iHDS to fix this issue. For the uninitiated, that's Honda's factory scan tool software. This is the stuff that scares me about modern cars because most independent shops are not going to go through that level of trouble.
They will send you to the dealer, and I wouldn't blame them either. It means you're likely at the mercy of your local dealer if your car is plagued with warning lights. Hell, just changing the 12V battery on a 2024 Accord triggered a ridiculous amount of warning lights that I had to clear with iHDS.
This ^ currently a Honda technician
I wonder how deep he had to go to fix the issue. If it was a true wiring or broken sensor issue or if it just was an incorrectly calibrated steering angle. Since on my $110 Launch scanner, I accidently reset the VSA steering calibration and basically steering, hill assist brake, cruise control, steering assist, ABS, TPMS and a few other faults came up. 😂 Reset the steering angle and it cleared itself but I was shocked at how many errors it pulled.
We went to our local Honda dealership 3 times and they couldn’t figure it out. David is the real MVP here!
@@GearsandGasolineI might’ve skipped over it but what were the codes?
@GearsandGasoline should have brought it to my shop, my job is mainly to fix issues like these. We get customers from other hondas bringing them to us cause theirs can't figure it out
The Shift Knob hoodie is adorable
Looks like a beer koozie to me
I had one in Vegas on my FK8 lol.. It was a Deadpool one from amazon lol
Shift knob hoodies are great. Not only do you get a chill homie with you at all times, but when it's hot, your knob is not
It's crazy how good this turned out!
23:25 As a chiropractor I'll say your technique is flawless!
Mark feels like the kid going back and forth between his divorced parents houses each weekend
I audibly laughed while reading this. Thank you.
This car gives flashbacks to the Sti.
Please don’t cut the roof off 🥺
Replace the Battery in my 2020 Honda Accord 1.5T. Now a bunch lights on dash! The battery!
Yep. My Mk 7R requires a reset in the computer, so it adjusts charging current to match the new battery.
It's also necessary to reprogram the battery manufacturer and type (AGM, flooded cell, etc), and the cranking amps.
Toyotas register the battery automatically. It's not hard for a company to do that but Honda is quickly becoming dealer only maintenance
You need a battery memory saver for new cars that's what I use on all the new vehicles when changing out the battery.
Did you register the battery replacement? Some cars have ibs (intelligent battery sensors) on them and if you don't reset it it can sometimes throw codes or over charge the battery. So I'd check that if it's not that then just check the terminals make sure they're tight and clean of corrosion.
If you are going through the trouble to corner balance, you should do it with the driver sitting in the car (or use a weight ballast) so the cross weights are even with you in it. Otherwise, nice job!
I highly recommend the Acuity rad hoses, it's a reverse flow to help with cooling! Also the coolant will crack so replace it ASAP!
The Type S damping module does wonders for ride quality especially in R+ mode.
I actually use +R mode now. Even around town.
Is it a drastic difference like a coil over?
@@caffeinefix2751 I would say so. It's more compliant and bearable around town with the Type S module.
@@caffeinefix2751it’s far more compliant. Really no need to change to coilovers. If you are on the fence, do the module first then decide. The module is not expensive.
Those opening shots reminded me of the fun I had with my MK 4 Golf VR5 driving it thorough the hills of Baden Württemberg
Looks awesome, man. Lowered, blue wheels, white...basically how I'd do it. Love it!
“We got 14 computers in this car”
-laughs in Volkswagen.
Dude I had a 1993 Alfa 164, I swear to god that think had a control module for the 6 cigarette lighters in it. 6 lighters and ashtrays in a car that seats 5, gotta love the Italians.
@@enemyspotted2467 I drive an ‘18 Skoda superb and it’s the first euro I’ve had in years, the amount of modules these things have is insane.
I had this glut of warnings happen on my 2017 Type R after it got incorrectly towed with 2 wheels down and it took about 50 miles of driving it before it learned nothing was wrong and the warnings dropped off. Gotta love new cars.
I still think bronzed finish wheels would be super sick on a white Type R.
I just got my 25' CTR and It has been the dream coming from a MKV Supra. I'm excited for this build as I build mine.
you sold your supra?
Awesome video as always Mark and Ben T.
I still like the blue wheels
make it honda blue instead but if they just do a shade of grey it will not look as good.
Changing to generic greys will make it look so NPC
Nope. Matte bronze is the way to go for white cars.
@@DreamDestinations123 yeah that's fine, probably what I will do with my white car
Blue wheels is the furthest thing from cool
Make sure the the rear coilover contact points can support the load. Otherwise you’ll be dealing with some irreversible damage.
Seems so far there's AST/Moton and Fortune Auto being the only ones going to a full coilover instead of the stock divorced setup in the rear. Hopefully they've done their testing but not too hopeful if Fortune Auto is selling the version 2 hat but are on version 3 of their top hat design likely due to a failure. Wonder what kind of spring rates they did install.
This. I would change to the latter design. It might work just fine but not worth the risk 😊
Still rocking my 05 Evo VIII MR with only 278,000 miles
Niiice 👍👍
Rocking my 03 Evo 8 with 98k miles
Rocking my 08 Evo X with 29k miles
Evo 7, 5RS and 9 GT Wagon here 😂 And yes I have a problem 😂😂
Original engine with that 278K? That’s impressive!
New Gears and Gasoline….means instant SMILE to my face.
Hi Ben, many of the oscillation that happen in civic is due to misaligned subframe. with spoon rigid collars, it will reduce/eliminate springing effect from the chassis. currently running stock setup daily in R+ without harshness. it will pair great with the coilovers. congrats!!
The “annoying offset bolts” is the superior way to adjust camber. Reason is that it maintains the same length of the arms on both sides of the car. If you only adjust those turn buckles, it will make the arms different lengths each side, which can lead to unpredictable differences in left vs right turn handling properties. Use the turn buckles for the “gross” adjustment, to get it in the ballpark of where you need the camber. But make sure they’re the same length on both sides. Then use the factory eccentric bolts to dial it in and equalize the camber on both sides of the car.
"I drove it through hurricaine Helene" That was unecessarily tough.
Literally just met you guys in the Walmart parking lot in Lenoir City, TN. Nice to meet you guys and talk shop for a minute!! Definitely gained a new viewer/subscriber!!
I have the Sport 02s on my Civic Si, they are the bomb.
Also, my car is running on TSP tune. Really enjoy it.
The Integra Type S module for the dampers is one of the popular ways to 'fix' the stuff ride in the type r.
Works like a charm!
I was wondering why this wasn't done first!
@@AirMaximus1 💯 easy peezy
How effective is it vs coil overs?
@@caffeinefix2751it’s really good.
Let’s go!!! Saturday morning cartoons!
Checking the tread wear, then talking in "half of 32nds..." what? My brain being from other part of the world cannot overcome it.
I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D .
But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done! Thanks for the content!
looks so good.... FL5 want stronger than ever before - 100% agreed dark grey/gunmetal wheels vs. the blue. It's coming along nicely. Great work guys! Enjoying the series
I am always hesitant using coilovers on cars with spring and shock setup because a lot of the times, the shock mounting points are not reinforced enough to take the weight of the vehicle.
especially, on japanese cars
Most every car comes with a spring and shock setup though. Almost anyone who adds coilovers to their car is replacing the basic spring and shock setup and its fine.
@ yes they do however if you are not using factory mounting points designed for the setup, you can damage the chassis.
So chill, love the energy here!
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@10:07 Raising the car w/ the trunk or hood still up gives me the EBBIJEEBIES!!!
I must say I am very impressed with this video thank you..I plan on getting one of these and lots of info I’m glad I seen and things you did as well as parts so thank you..very entertaining keep it up and I wish you continued success in your videos and channel as you have gained another sub 🙌🏽💪🏽🙏🏽
As a TV broadcasting guy, I laughed at the radiators' measurement in "rack units."
Did you consider the integra Type S suspension control module? Ive heard it's pretty much plug and play, and really softens it up
Why not just use individual mode? +R everything except suspension, keep that in sport or comfort
Type S sport = Type R comfort
@@a124as that would be a better compromise to me than spending $2k on coilvers that are always softer than comfort.
Works great. It’s an inexpensive mod that fixes all the issues. No sense spending on coilovers
😂 “beep beep beep” dead as fuck loved that he torqued to spec!! The Ben’s crack me up. Don’t forget the “Ugg a dugga” when putting the wheels back on! I love this channel keep up the great entertainment boys.
Yup when replacing the srs unit, immobilizer or vsa module on a new honda you have to the key write or else you’ll get all those lights
This time of the year is the best time of the year for viewers. We get to see companies pushing “no budget” builds…builds that 99.9% of people will never be able to achieve…to get ready to showcase at SEMA.
While doing the radiator you should have put in Acuity reverse flow coolant hoses and a low temp thermostat as well xd
Gun metal grey for the mags!! I love watching your videos guys! Keep it up! More power to you!
10:32 Source Engine jumpscare, my favourite unit conversion.
22:43 and the AV/install jumpscare
10:33 giving the swaybar measurements in Hammer Units is such a video game nerd joke. I love it.
Did you guys consider trying the Integra Type-S damper control module? I swapped one into my own FL5 TypeR and it made the car slightly softer for street driving. It was inexpensive and easy to swap in.
I always use a really long bar positioned under the subframe and over the lower arm to pull the balljoint lose. Works way safer and easier than any balljoint tool.
TwoStepPerformance 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Corey is the man!
I put a new intake on my ‘18 SI I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor and got every dash light too. Even for unrelated stuff like traction control parking brake etc. gotta love modern Honda computers
12:30
I just noticed you're using zipties. If you ever plan on taking this car to the track, replace them with hose clamps. First hand experience, too much heat will expand those zip ties and the module will become loose and eventually fall out.
That,
But even if that doesn't happen, They do get harder over time until they eventually just fall apart.
That would also suck.
Please watch a few videos on corner balance. Another solution to the shock simulator is to get a module out of a non electronic shock car. So same year civic non r. Got a little of that tissim in the shop there.
I had an SVX where they drilled a hole in the wheel well from the factory for you to change the back spark plug
Holy crap you don’t have to gut the hatch area to remove the rears? Sweet.
Honda couldn't ask for a better fanboy. This man makes me a fan.
I laughed out loud at the cut to Jackie and Alex hammering on the control arm, hahaha.
Ben, Bud, you could've just swapped the CTR suspension module to an ITS module and got the ITS' softer suspension on your ctr-- provided you didn't already do this and I'm behind on this build.
Nah, they didn't change the ADS module. One of their main sponsors is Fortune Auto and why that's the only coilovers they put in their cars. I'm not convinced though going to a true coilover in the rear is the best idea especially seeing their still messing with the top hat design to spread even more load so it doesn't punch out the body. And part of it is they wanted to lower the car anyway.
@@Vermonstered That's fair, I know they're pals with Fortune Auto-- who are a great coilover company-- so that makes sense. Still wish they'd make coils for my car though. :T
@@thegirthquake8574 FA is good in the sense you can rebuild them and always get support but they use off the self Chineseium parts. Most of the European suspension companies products will likely be better in terms of damping geared toward ride quality if available. Otherwise a simple Koni yellow with their adjustable spring collars might have enough height and damping adjustment for you with a quality strut.
I know you had doubts on the wheel color but it's spot on in my opinion
Dude, same. Except for me, I have the Veloster N. Shit rides harsh. Other owners have said it rides fine but I think that's just cope. Upgraded to KW V3s and I couldn't believe how much better they are along with a significantly better handling once you dial in everything else from alignment and tire pressures to the compression and rebound.
Im pretty sure Acuity makes parts to reverse flow of the coolant which helps with temps as well.
I had the same issue with my civic with every light turning on the dash and I just hard reset the system and have had no issues. Common issue to have every light go on. Sometimes a Google search can save u lots of time.
oh hi Mark
I am looking forward to Mark taking back his K-series engine. 😂
I like the blue wheels tho
I love the blue wheels. Looks unique
3:25 One of those tools trashed a good ball joint for me, it was seized in and the pressure managed to bend the threaded section, wouldn't thread back on, and the ball joint was cast into the arm, so an expensive mistake for a cheap tool.
I just use a prybar and hammer ever since.
My (personal) opinion on ride height is simple: if you can't get your lift arms under the car, it's too low. If you can barely squeak it under by grabbing the fender and giving it some help, it's the perfect height.
From just seeing the screen of the iHDS screen, VSA modulator had to be written into the sysyem
Yep! ECU key rewrite for the new SRS unit. Honda wanted to replace the VSA.
You could use some stripes on this ride. Lots of blank canvas to work with on the sides
The only thing I look forward to every week is your videos❤
Youre going to need to do more for the cooling unfortunately. I have the same rad, prl intercooler and oil coolers and it still gets spicy on track
If you’re looking for a softer ride, why then go to Lower arms with heim joints which will most definitely increase NVH??
The adjustability of the stock suspension is brilliant. Honda did an amazing job of balancing performance with comfort IMO -- I definitely don't find it too stiff. Also seems like sacrilege to replace something Honda spent thousands of hours and probably millions developing.
Personally, I would have gone with Koni Yellows and either H&R or Tein for softer springs. I am surprised that you aren't running Advan tires to match the wheels, and that you haven't touched the exhaust... yet.
I would love to get one. Wish they made a version to buy with 5 seats
I would have gone with an adjustable KW V3 suspension which also retains the divorce setup at the rear. That way you can get a softer ride for the street and a firmer ride at the track with just dialing some clicks for bump and rebound. And you can also alter the ride height of course. If you like it a bit more hardcore there is also a "Clubsport" version of this suspension.
@@Fastvoice they're sponsored by Fortune Auto
You made that washing montage look like a music video, love it.
I busted out laughing w/the human torque wrench! 🤣
you can just install the acura type s dynamic damper controller (plug and play) and the dynamic damper settings are worlds better for track use and daily use. the fk8 was the same way with the le vs standard damper controller
You always need to recalibrate your sensors when rebuilding a newer vehicle even if the front bumper comes off, just for something small, needs recalibration.
Can you go over the process for titling a rebuilt car and insurance etc for VA? I'd love to know!
Single radiator on a car is a no-no. Upgrade with a dual radiator fan system asap, helps with cooling in car jams and on highspeed or high pressure temperatures on the car...
I wonder how my driving compares to yours. I've tracked my FL5 MANY times and never had an overheating issue. And mine's stock. Outside of track pads, brake fluid, and track wheels, it's stock
This is why I'm not buying new cars anymore. Just bought something from 2002 and that's more up my alley.
Noo 😩 the blue wheels look so good
Pretty sure its the oil temp thats the main problem on the fl5? Probably coolant too but i remember seeing multiple nurburgring laps of them hitting 150c oil temp within a lap
i'm wondering why you didn't just go the (i think better) route and just swap out the type r adaptive suspension module for the one from the integra type s? still handles just as great as the type r but it's much more compliant on the street so you don't break your back on every bump.
At 18:34 “Steal Ben’s K-Series” 😂😂
That smol hoodie was cute!
I think you should switch the front brake dics, put the left one on the right and viceversa. Seems like they rotate in the wrong direction
The bootleg “Not like us” beat while installing the front coilovers was hilarious
So what was the fix for all the lights? Re programming the key? Ride height is too low. For a more street car, did you look into the Integra Type S suspension module? Obviously the coil overs are better for track driving...
More camber in the rear and less in the front, how is that going to improve turn in? I find you can run more camber in the front, you just need to make sure you have zero toe. Increasing caster also helps a lot with turn in and steering feel. Seems a shame to buy such an expensive car and then have to do so many modifications, I though the whole point of buying a car like this is because it is so good as is? I mean you could modify many cars and modify them for better track performance so...
Why not add the IT Type S suspension module instead of the coilover set up?