@@ellwoodwolf Nah, the +R mode is Honda engineers looking for that slight better lap time without getting new parts. They cranked up the damping to act like artificial springs as they're the same springs from the FK8. The excessive damping slows down the body roll in a turn so it's good for quick transitions, but packs up the damper in hits or long sweepers. Wish Honda just spent the extra $250 per car and just changed the spring to match what they're trying to do but the car was already expensive already. But as a Type R solution the Type S Integra uses the exact same hardware but is tuned differently, and can swap the suspension control module.
@@ellwoodwolf honestly hard suspension doesn't mean fast just like that. it needs to be soft enough to absorb the unevenness of the ground and hard enough to not give out under the loads when turning/breaking and accelerating, and translate the weight to the tires and utalize more of the available grip. having stiff suspension only impresses people who don't know anything about suspension.
As a FK8 owner, I heavily discourage you to get a FK8/FL5 to be your daily + weekend racer. The cooling issues Ben talked about, are not fixed by simple solutions like a different radiator. Be prepared to sink over $5,000 in mods and time into the platform, just to be able to go a few more laps. There are many owners, who get real with the issue and tell you not to get one, if you want to race them. The overheating issues are not due to a small radiator or something like that- the engine bays are simply too cramped for the turbocharged K20C1. Mind you, it's pushing 320+ HP from a 2 liter, so it's the turbo doing the heavy lifting. If you put that hot turbo AND CAT UNDER the intake charge pipes and IN BETWEEN the engine and the heat exchangers, you WILL get heat soak. A bigger radiator will only worsen this issue, because now you decreased the airflow to the engine bay to cool other components. Like I said, it's not an easy "slap some mods and call it a day" problem. This is a "this platform is silly" kind of problem. You need at least a engine hood with major cooling vents, at least one external oil cooler (2 is better...) another front mask with bigger opening for airflow, wrap on the intake charge pipe (no turbo or exhaust blanket- you need the airflow to cool it) and CAT delete to make a real difference. Guys, I'm not hating on the Type R- it is the best (stock) FWD sports car for the street. When I got mine, I was laughing in joy, all the way back home, carving through the country roads. But it is not for the track- as is. I don't consider a car, that can only do 5 laps, before it goes into limp mode a "track car". There are many cars, that you can slap a bigger radiator, oil cooler on and prop the hood in the rear and have fun all day. This ain't it.
What kind of air temps are you running in? I just did three sessions of 25’ each at a Pitt Race in a pretty stock FL5, just water wetter in the coolant. Never saw water temp over 195. But it was 60°F out…
It's consumers who did this. Slide my seat with effort? no motor. Raise my seat with effort? no motor. Turn on my own lights? No computer. Turn on my own wipers? No computer. Flip my own rear view mirror? No computer. Stay iny own lane ? No computer park my car by paying attention? No computer..... See where I'm going with this ...
The more and more EPA and safety regulations that are required, the more modules will be needed. And as the last person said as well, the more comfort functions that are wanted by consumers, the more engineers will have to add more modules to have everything communicate with each other because if you live your seat the airbag modules will have to know how much to deploy.
from an engineering perspective, compute power has gotten so insane now that it's actually quite difficult to implement only essentials. its way easier and cheaper to justify to the consumer rather than make a bespoke chip + board setup.
@@ellwoodwolf i agree with you but some things are def regulations. mostly for safety like all the airbags, driving aids, sos and stuff like that. its just annoying for someone like us who has to fix systems even if we don't use these systems like the abs wich in some cases people remove.
It's always incredible to me that a track focused car from the factory that a host of engineers designed still has parts on it that can be made better. But then I remember how much the automotive industry is focused on cost more than it is prefromance a lot of times. Super cool to see the ways these cars can be made better!
Of course they haven’t put the absolute best you can buy on as OEM equipment, no one would pay the 10s of thousands more the car would cost if Honda put the best they could on it. The current price is already a bit of a joke for a front wheel drive Honda.
Every vehicle has a compromise of some sort. It could come with all aluminum suspension components or have carbon hatch, roof, hood and such but the price would push this over 6 figures.
Well then pony up and get something better from the factory. No best of the best is gonna be 50 grand. And of course these companies focus more on cost, so they can pay their employees and manufacturing. People want "living wages" after all right? Do you know why I know this? Cuz I worked for a living bro.
17:36 - The poor guy needed goddamn iHDS to fix this issue. For the uninitiated, that's Honda's factory scan tool software. This is the stuff that scares me about modern cars because most independent shops are not going to go through that level of trouble. They will send you to the dealer, and I wouldn't blame them either. It means you're likely at the mercy of your local dealer if your car is plagued with warning lights. Hell, just changing the 12V battery on a 2024 Accord triggered a ridiculous amount of warning lights that I had to clear with iHDS.
I wonder how deep he had to go to fix the issue. If it was a true wiring or broken sensor issue or if it just was an incorrectly calibrated steering angle. Since on my $110 Launch scanner, I accidently reset the VSA steering calibration and basically steering, hill assist brake, cruise control, steering assist, ABS, TPMS and a few other faults came up. 😂 Reset the steering angle and it cleared itself but I was shocked at how many errors it pulled.
@GearsandGasoline should have brought it to my shop, my job is mainly to fix issues like these. We get customers from other hondas bringing them to us cause theirs can't figure it out
If you are going through the trouble to corner balance, you should do it with the driver sitting in the car (or use a weight ballast) so the cross weights are even with you in it. Otherwise, nice job!
everyone is saying battery, yes after a replacement you will get the safety lights but that will go away with driving around for literally 30s to a minute or letting your car sit outside in the open for a minute as well, if the battery replacement doesn’t get rid of the lights, check the CAMERA on the windshield, usually a faulty camera will set those lights on the dash, i work at ACURA, they’re all the same at end of the day
Yep. My Mk 7R requires a reset in the computer, so it adjusts charging current to match the new battery. It's also necessary to reprogram the battery manufacturer and type (AGM, flooded cell, etc), and the cranking amps.
Did you register the battery replacement? Some cars have ibs (intelligent battery sensors) on them and if you don't reset it it can sometimes throw codes or over charge the battery. So I'd check that if it's not that then just check the terminals make sure they're tight and clean of corrosion.
I am always hesitant using coilovers on cars with spring and shock setup because a lot of the times, the shock mounting points are not reinforced enough to take the weight of the vehicle.
Seems so far there's AST/Moton and Fortune Auto being the only ones going to a full coilover instead of the stock divorced setup in the rear. Hopefully they've done their testing but not too hopeful if Fortune Auto is selling the version 2 hat but are on version 3 of their top hat design likely due to a failure. Wonder what kind of spring rates they did install.
Just change the ADM module to the Integra S and save a ton of money. Plug and play and less than $300. Totally different car. No more hopping on track bumps. I changed it at 200 miles as I hated it. Just try it. Night and day. The car has no idea it’s in there other than suspension softer. All modes work as they should. No codes. I had a factory software fix that requires hot then cold loads. Car didn’t care. It is so good with the S module it’s hard to explain. Just change it and be done with it.
The “annoying offset bolts” is the superior way to adjust camber. Reason is that it maintains the same length of the arms on both sides of the car. If you only adjust those turn buckles, it will make the arms different lengths each side, which can lead to unpredictable differences in left vs right turn handling properties. Use the turn buckles for the “gross” adjustment, to get it in the ballpark of where you need the camber. But make sure they’re the same length on both sides. Then use the factory eccentric bolts to dial it in and equalize the camber on both sides of the car.
looks so good.... FL5 want stronger than ever before - 100% agreed dark grey/gunmetal wheels vs. the blue. It's coming along nicely. Great work guys! Enjoying the series
Literally just met you guys in the Walmart parking lot in Lenoir City, TN. Nice to meet you guys and talk shop for a minute!! Definitely gained a new viewer/subscriber!!
Dude I had a 1993 Alfa 164, I swear to god that think had a control module for the 6 cigarette lighters in it. 6 lighters and ashtrays in a car that seats 5, gotta love the Italians.
I had this glut of warnings happen on my 2017 Type R after it got incorrectly towed with 2 wheels down and it took about 50 miles of driving it before it learned nothing was wrong and the warnings dropped off. Gotta love new cars.
12:30 I just noticed you're using zipties. If you ever plan on taking this car to the track, replace them with hose clamps. First hand experience, too much heat will expand those zip ties and the module will become loose and eventually fall out.
Checking the tread wear, then talking in "half of 32nds..." what? My brain being from other part of the world cannot overcome it. I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D . But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done! Thanks for the content!
I always use a really long bar positioned under the subframe and over the lower arm to pull the balljoint lose. Works way safer and easier than any balljoint tool.
Dude, same. Except for me, I have the Veloster N. Shit rides harsh. Other owners have said it rides fine but I think that's just cope. Upgraded to KW V3s and I couldn't believe how much better they are along with a significantly better handling once you dial in everything else from alignment and tire pressures to the compression and rebound.
Did you guys consider trying the Integra Type-S damper control module? I swapped one into my own FL5 TypeR and it made the car slightly softer for street driving. It was inexpensive and easy to swap in.
😂 “beep beep beep” dead as fuck loved that he torqued to spec!! The Ben’s crack me up. Don’t forget the “Ugg a dugga” when putting the wheels back on! I love this channel keep up the great entertainment boys.
This time of the year is the best time of the year for viewers. We get to see companies pushing “no budget” builds…builds that 99.9% of people will never be able to achieve…to get ready to showcase at SEMA.
My (personal) opinion on ride height is simple: if you can't get your lift arms under the car, it's too low. If you can barely squeak it under by grabbing the fender and giving it some help, it's the perfect height.
I had the same issue with my civic with every light turning on the dash and I just hard reset the system and have had no issues. Common issue to have every light go on. Sometimes a Google search can save u lots of time.
Single radiator on a car is a no-no. Upgrade with a dual radiator fan system asap, helps with cooling in car jams and on highspeed or high pressure temperatures on the car...
My daily is a 2010 Toyota Rav4 with 189K. A Type R Civic would be driven as a treat and pampered with love. Also it would be driven hard at least a couple of times a month. 😊
@ShaiyanHossain I would love to daily a Type R. But, if I could afford that car it would be in the garage while I do a comment in a old beater. I daily drove a '97 Integra GSR and a 2009 Civic Si 4 door (HFP suspension). I wished I would have kept them both, especially the Si. So at my age, a Type R would be saved.
Probably in the minority here but the blue Advans look fantastic. Might be my boomer early to mid-aughts bias, but when the Magnesium TE/CE’s came out everyone freaked tf out, myself included. Either way, car looks fantastic! Was skeptical at first since it’s effectively the best factory-tuned FWD car of all time, but you guys did in fact improve it lol.
I would have gone with an adjustable KW V3 suspension which also retains the divorce setup at the rear. That way you can get a softer ride for the street and a firmer ride at the track with just dialing some clicks for bump and rebound. And you can also alter the ride height of course. If you like it a bit more hardcore there is also a "Clubsport" version of this suspension.
Ben, as a long-time fan, I've got to know; what made you transition out of Subarus? I've noticed myself making the change but a part of me doesn't want to. A part of me wants to move on as well. Any advice, reasonings, or suggestions? Gears and Gasoline is honestly the best RUclips channel out there. Thank you all for the best content!
You always need to recalibrate your sensors when rebuilding a newer vehicle even if the front bumper comes off, just for something small, needs recalibration.
tfw the dash says "see your dealer" but you own a racecar and can't afford drugs
Installing coilovers for a softer ride... what a world we live in...
He's getting soft.
@@ellwoodwolf Nah, the +R mode is Honda engineers looking for that slight better lap time without getting new parts. They cranked up the damping to act like artificial springs as they're the same springs from the FK8. The excessive damping slows down the body roll in a turn so it's good for quick transitions, but packs up the damper in hits or long sweepers. Wish Honda just spent the extra $250 per car and just changed the spring to match what they're trying to do but the car was already expensive already. But as a Type R solution the Type S Integra uses the exact same hardware but is tuned differently, and can swap the suspension control module.
I mean when you have professional drivers saying the suspension setup in +R mode is horrible, why wouldn’t you fix the problem?
^
@@ellwoodwolf honestly hard suspension doesn't mean fast just like that. it needs to be soft enough to absorb the unevenness of the ground and hard enough to not give out under the loads when turning/breaking and accelerating, and translate the weight to the tires and utalize more of the available grip. having stiff suspension only impresses people who don't know anything about suspension.
As a FK8 owner, I heavily discourage you to get a FK8/FL5 to be your daily + weekend racer.
The cooling issues Ben talked about, are not fixed by simple solutions like a different radiator. Be prepared to sink over $5,000 in mods and time into the platform, just to be able to go a few more laps.
There are many owners, who get real with the issue and tell you not to get one, if you want to race them.
The overheating issues are not due to a small radiator or something like that- the engine bays are simply too cramped for the turbocharged K20C1.
Mind you, it's pushing 320+ HP from a 2 liter, so it's the turbo doing the heavy lifting. If you put that hot turbo AND CAT UNDER the intake charge pipes and IN BETWEEN the engine and the heat exchangers, you WILL get heat soak.
A bigger radiator will only worsen this issue, because now you decreased the airflow to the engine bay to cool other components.
Like I said, it's not an easy "slap some mods and call it a day" problem. This is a "this platform is silly" kind of problem.
You need at least a engine hood with major cooling vents, at least one external oil cooler (2 is better...) another front mask with bigger opening for airflow, wrap on the intake charge pipe (no turbo or exhaust blanket- you need the airflow to cool it) and CAT delete to make a real difference.
Guys, I'm not hating on the Type R- it is the best (stock) FWD sports car for the street. When I got mine, I was laughing in joy, all the way back home, carving through the country roads. But it is not for the track- as is. I don't consider a car, that can only do 5 laps, before it goes into limp mode a "track car".
There are many cars, that you can slap a bigger radiator, oil cooler on and prop the hood in the rear and have fun all day. This ain't it.
Interesting
What kind of air temps are you running in? I just did three sessions of 25’ each at a Pitt Race in a pretty stock FL5, just water wetter in the coolant. Never saw water temp over 195. But it was 60°F out…
You said what I was having in mind. It's not a radiator issue, it's a fight against physics issue.
Damnn i guess i'll stick to my s2k
What are some other "cheap" sports cars that don't fundamentally have cooling issues?
I wonder how much cheaper modern cars would be if they only had the essential computers to make the car run.
Aka the regulators stayed out of it
It's consumers who did this. Slide my seat with effort? no motor. Raise my seat with effort? no motor. Turn on my own lights? No computer. Turn on my own wipers? No computer. Flip my own rear view mirror? No computer. Stay iny own lane ? No computer park my car by paying attention? No computer..... See where I'm going with this ...
The more and more EPA and safety regulations that are required, the more modules will be needed. And as the last person said as well, the more comfort functions that are wanted by consumers, the more engineers will have to add more modules to have everything communicate with each other because if you live your seat the airbag modules will have to know how much to deploy.
from an engineering perspective, compute power has gotten so insane now that it's actually quite difficult to implement only essentials. its way easier and cheaper to justify to the consumer rather than make a bespoke chip + board setup.
@@ellwoodwolf i agree with you but some things are def regulations. mostly for safety like all the airbags, driving aids, sos and stuff like that. its just annoying for someone like us who has to fix systems even if we don't use these systems like the abs wich in some cases people remove.
Bens got a new daily, you know what that means fellas - It'll be on Cars & Bids next week. 🤣
Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuup
Lets be real. Bens real daily is the F150 haha 😂
"half a 32nd" makes my eu brain hurt
He should have read it as 64ths at that point
I was just thinking, TF is a half a 32nd
Americans use anything but the metric system
Same, I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D .
But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done
It's always incredible to me that a track focused car from the factory that a host of engineers designed still has parts on it that can be made better. But then I remember how much the automotive industry is focused on cost more than it is prefromance a lot of times. Super cool to see the ways these cars can be made better!
Of course they haven’t put the absolute best you can buy on as OEM equipment, no one would pay the 10s of thousands more the car would cost if Honda put the best they could on it. The current price is already a bit of a joke for a front wheel drive Honda.
I mean people still find ways to make $250k porsches faster on track than factory- see Manthey Performance
Every vehicle has a compromise of some sort. It could come with all aluminum suspension components or have carbon hatch, roof, hood and such but the price would push this over 6 figures.
That can be said for many factory track focused cars. Porsche GT3RS comes to mind. Lots of aftermarket damper kits for that car.
Well then pony up and get something better from the factory. No best of the best is gonna be 50 grand. And of course these companies focus more on cost, so they can pay their employees and manufacturing. People want "living wages" after all right? Do you know why I know this? Cuz I worked for a living bro.
17:36 - The poor guy needed goddamn iHDS to fix this issue. For the uninitiated, that's Honda's factory scan tool software. This is the stuff that scares me about modern cars because most independent shops are not going to go through that level of trouble.
They will send you to the dealer, and I wouldn't blame them either. It means you're likely at the mercy of your local dealer if your car is plagued with warning lights. Hell, just changing the 12V battery on a 2024 Accord triggered a ridiculous amount of warning lights that I had to clear with iHDS.
This ^ currently a Honda technician
I wonder how deep he had to go to fix the issue. If it was a true wiring or broken sensor issue or if it just was an incorrectly calibrated steering angle. Since on my $110 Launch scanner, I accidently reset the VSA steering calibration and basically steering, hill assist brake, cruise control, steering assist, ABS, TPMS and a few other faults came up. 😂 Reset the steering angle and it cleared itself but I was shocked at how many errors it pulled.
We went to our local Honda dealership 3 times and they couldn’t figure it out. David is the real MVP here!
@@GearsandGasolineI might’ve skipped over it but what were the codes?
@GearsandGasoline should have brought it to my shop, my job is mainly to fix issues like these. We get customers from other hondas bringing them to us cause theirs can't figure it out
I love that Cam was named Camera from birth its like he was born to do this job
The Integra Type S module for the dampers is one of the popular ways to 'fix' the stuff ride in the type r.
Works like a charm!
This car gives flashbacks to the Sti.
Please don’t cut the roof off 🥺
It's crazy how good this turned out!
23:25 As a chiropractor I'll say your technique is flawless!
The Shift Knob hoodie is adorable
Looks like a beer koozie to me
I had one in Vegas on my FK8 lol.. It was a Deadpool one from amazon lol
Shift knob hoodies are great. Not only do you get a chill homie with you at all times, but when it's hot, your knob is not
If you are going through the trouble to corner balance, you should do it with the driver sitting in the car (or use a weight ballast) so the cross weights are even with you in it. Otherwise, nice job!
I still like the blue wheels
make it honda blue instead but if they just do a shade of grey it will not look as good.
Changing to generic greys will make it look so NPC
Nope. Matte bronze is the way to go for white cars.
@@DreamDestinations123 yeah that's fine, probably what I will do with my white car
Blue wheels is the furthest thing from cool
everyone is saying battery, yes after a replacement you will get the safety lights but that will go away with driving around for literally 30s to a minute or letting your car sit outside in the open for a minute as well, if the battery replacement doesn’t get rid of the lights, check the CAMERA on the windshield, usually a faulty camera will set those lights on the dash, i work at ACURA, they’re all the same at end of the day
Replace the Battery in my 2020 Honda Accord 1.5T. Now a bunch lights on dash! The battery!
Yep. My Mk 7R requires a reset in the computer, so it adjusts charging current to match the new battery.
It's also necessary to reprogram the battery manufacturer and type (AGM, flooded cell, etc), and the cranking amps.
Toyotas register the battery automatically. It's not hard for a company to do that but Honda is quickly becoming dealer only maintenance
You need a battery memory saver for new cars that's what I use on all the new vehicles when changing out the battery.
Did you register the battery replacement? Some cars have ibs (intelligent battery sensors) on them and if you don't reset it it can sometimes throw codes or over charge the battery. So I'd check that if it's not that then just check the terminals make sure they're tight and clean of corrosion.
Still rocking my 05 Evo VIII MR with only 278,000 miles
Niiice 👍👍
Rocking my 03 Evo 8 with 98k miles
Rocking my 08 Evo X with 29k miles
Evo 7, 5RS and 9 GT Wagon here 😂 And yes I have a problem 😂😂
Original engine with that 278K? That’s impressive!
You guys do realize this is a 25:40 commercial right?
oh hi Mark
I am always hesitant using coilovers on cars with spring and shock setup because a lot of the times, the shock mounting points are not reinforced enough to take the weight of the vehicle.
Make sure the the rear coilover contact points can support the load. Otherwise you’ll be dealing with some irreversible damage.
Seems so far there's AST/Moton and Fortune Auto being the only ones going to a full coilover instead of the stock divorced setup in the rear. Hopefully they've done their testing but not too hopeful if Fortune Auto is selling the version 2 hat but are on version 3 of their top hat design likely due to a failure. Wonder what kind of spring rates they did install.
This. I would change to the latter design. It might work just fine but not worth the risk 😊
Just change the ADM module to the Integra S and save a ton of money. Plug and play and less than $300. Totally different car. No more hopping on track bumps. I changed it at 200 miles as I hated it. Just try it. Night and day. The car has no idea it’s in there other than suspension softer. All modes work as they should. No codes. I had a factory software fix that requires hot then cold loads. Car didn’t care. It is so good with the S module it’s hard to explain. Just change it and be done with it.
Holy crap you don’t have to gut the hatch area to remove the rears? Sweet.
I just got my 25' CTR and It has been the dream coming from a MKV Supra. I'm excited for this build as I build mine.
The “annoying offset bolts” is the superior way to adjust camber. Reason is that it maintains the same length of the arms on both sides of the car. If you only adjust those turn buckles, it will make the arms different lengths each side, which can lead to unpredictable differences in left vs right turn handling properties. Use the turn buckles for the “gross” adjustment, to get it in the ballpark of where you need the camber. But make sure they’re the same length on both sides. Then use the factory eccentric bolts to dial it in and equalize the camber on both sides of the car.
Mark feels like the kid going back and forth between his divorced parents houses each weekend
Let’s go!!! Saturday morning cartoons!
The Type S damping module does wonders for ride quality especially in R+ mode.
I actually use +R mode now. Even around town.
looks so good.... FL5 want stronger than ever before - 100% agreed dark grey/gunmetal wheels vs. the blue. It's coming along nicely. Great work guys! Enjoying the series
Literally just met you guys in the Walmart parking lot in Lenoir City, TN. Nice to meet you guys and talk shop for a minute!! Definitely gained a new viewer/subscriber!!
"I drove it through hurricaine Helene" That was unecessarily tough.
I still think bronzed finish wheels would be super sick on a white Type R.
I highly recommend the Acuity rad hoses, it's a reverse flow to help with cooling! Also the coolant will crack so replace it ASAP!
“We got 14 computers in this car”
-laughs in Volkswagen.
Dude I had a 1993 Alfa 164, I swear to god that think had a control module for the 6 cigarette lighters in it. 6 lighters and ashtrays in a car that seats 5, gotta love the Italians.
@@enemyspotted2467 I drive an ‘18 Skoda superb and it’s the first euro I’ve had in years, the amount of modules these things have is insane.
I had this glut of warnings happen on my 2017 Type R after it got incorrectly towed with 2 wheels down and it took about 50 miles of driving it before it learned nothing was wrong and the warnings dropped off. Gotta love new cars.
@10:07 Raising the car w/ the trunk or hood still up gives me the EBBIJEEBIES!!!
camber doesnt wear tires fast its toe
I have the Sport 02s on my Civic Si, they are the bomb.
Also, my car is running on TSP tune. Really enjoy it.
Those opening shots reminded me of the fun I had with my MK 4 Golf VR5 driving it thorough the hills of Baden Württemberg
10:32 Source Engine jumpscare, my favourite unit conversion.
22:43 and the AV/install jumpscare
TwoStepPerformance 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Corey is the man!
Gun metal grey for the mags!! I love watching your videos guys! Keep it up! More power to you!
New Gears and Gasoline….means instant SMILE to my face.
12:30
I just noticed you're using zipties. If you ever plan on taking this car to the track, replace them with hose clamps. First hand experience, too much heat will expand those zip ties and the module will become loose and eventually fall out.
So chill, love the energy here!
BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT
I know you had doubts on the wheel color but it's spot on in my opinion
I like the blue wheels tho
Checking the tread wear, then talking in "half of 32nds..." what? My brain being from other part of the world cannot overcome it.
I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D .
But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done! Thanks for the content!
While doing the radiator you should have put in Acuity reverse flow coolant hoses and a low temp thermostat as well xd
Did you consider the integra Type S suspension control module? Ive heard it's pretty much plug and play, and really softens it up
Why not just use individual mode? +R everything except suspension, keep that in sport or comfort
Type S sport = Type R comfort
@@ka124as that would be a better compromise to me than spending $2k on coilvers that are always softer than comfort.
Works great. It’s an inexpensive mod that fixes all the issues. No sense spending on coilovers
You made that washing montage look like a music video, love it.
I always use a really long bar positioned under the subframe and over the lower arm to pull the balljoint lose. Works way safer and easier than any balljoint tool.
Honda couldn't ask for a better fanboy. This man makes me a fan.
Dude, same. Except for me, I have the Veloster N. Shit rides harsh. Other owners have said it rides fine but I think that's just cope. Upgraded to KW V3s and I couldn't believe how much better they are along with a significantly better handling once you dial in everything else from alignment and tire pressures to the compression and rebound.
Yup when replacing the srs unit, immobilizer or vsa module on a new honda you have to the key write or else you’ll get all those lights
Did you guys consider trying the Integra Type-S damper control module? I swapped one into my own FL5 TypeR and it made the car slightly softer for street driving. It was inexpensive and easy to swap in.
😂 “beep beep beep” dead as fuck loved that he torqued to spec!! The Ben’s crack me up. Don’t forget the “Ugg a dugga” when putting the wheels back on! I love this channel keep up the great entertainment boys.
Some Spoon SW388 Wheels would look epic on this
This time of the year is the best time of the year for viewers. We get to see companies pushing “no budget” builds…builds that 99.9% of people will never be able to achieve…to get ready to showcase at SEMA.
I am looking forward to Mark taking back his K-series engine. 😂
The only thing I look forward to every week is your videos❤
It's a pleasure to watch you. Your videos are always full of creativity and style.🎲😝🍎
That wash was pure torture..😨
I laughed out loud at the cut to Jackie and Alex hammering on the control arm, hahaha.
what a nice guy we all need our own mark
Mag blues are making a sick comeback
Type R content! I want to see Ben track this thang!
dude i actually love that dark blue with that white
Noo 😩 the blue wheels look so good
@12:12 that's why I love Honda. I can't remember how many times I had to fight with Ford's engineering when I worked on them.
I think the blue wheels look great
My (personal) opinion on ride height is simple: if you can't get your lift arms under the car, it's too low. If you can barely squeak it under by grabbing the fender and giving it some help, it's the perfect height.
I can't believe you're converting to rwd! So cool!
And it’s an easy mod.
I had the same issue with my civic with every light turning on the dash and I just hard reset the system and have had no issues. Common issue to have every light go on. Sometimes a Google search can save u lots of time.
Single radiator on a car is a no-no. Upgrade with a dual radiator fan system asap, helps with cooling in car jams and on highspeed or high pressure temperatures on the car...
My daily is a 2010 Toyota Rav4 with 189K. A Type R Civic would be driven as a treat and pampered with love. Also it would be driven hard at least a couple of times a month. 😊
@@9ZERO6 i drive mine 100 miles a day- one of the best daily drivers you could ask for provided you dont need awd
@ShaiyanHossain I would love to daily a Type R. But, if I could afford that car it would be in the garage while I do a comment in a old beater. I daily drove a '97 Integra GSR and a 2009 Civic Si 4 door (HFP suspension). I wished I would have kept them both, especially the Si. So at my age, a Type R would be saved.
The bootleg “Not like us” beat while installing the front coilovers was hilarious
It's time to drive it to Alaska!! 🎉
So happy you got rid of that horrendous windshield streamer 😄
Blue on the rims are perfect
We want another roadtrip please!!!
I had an SVX where they drilled a hole in the wheel well from the factory for you to change the back spark plug
I like the wheels no other color is gonna look better on white tbh
Probably in the minority here but the blue Advans look fantastic. Might be my boomer early to mid-aughts bias, but when the Magnesium TE/CE’s came out everyone freaked tf out, myself included. Either way, car looks fantastic! Was skeptical at first since it’s effectively the best factory-tuned FWD car of all time, but you guys did in fact improve it lol.
Im pretty sure Acuity makes parts to reverse flow of the coolant which helps with temps as well.
I would have gone with an adjustable KW V3 suspension which also retains the divorce setup at the rear. That way you can get a softer ride for the street and a firmer ride at the track with just dialing some clicks for bump and rebound. And you can also alter the ride height of course. If you like it a bit more hardcore there is also a "Clubsport" version of this suspension.
@@Fastvoice they're sponsored by Fortune Auto
ROAD trip. Civic TYPE R and Mitsubishi Talon oh please take Mark along too
Ben, as a long-time fan, I've got to know; what made you transition out of Subarus? I've noticed myself making the change but a part of me doesn't want to. A part of me wants to move on as well. Any advice, reasonings, or suggestions?
Gears and Gasoline is honestly the best RUclips channel out there. Thank you all for the best content!
Been waiting for this for a long time
A well made radiator will definitely help with the overheating issues. Dual oil coolers will completely fix any overheating at the track.
Have a 2017 si and hated that problem cant believe they still have the same problem
the fl5 taillights killed it for me
The Good ole HDS-I coming to the rescue 🤌🏽
You always need to recalibrate your sensors when rebuilding a newer vehicle even if the front bumper comes off, just for something small, needs recalibration.
This calls for a ROAD TRIP
the techies of the first Apollo missions would be having aneurismsif they had todesk with this😂
Road trip the type r!
nuclear fission... that killed me LOL