This week I applied the added strap and carabiner you suggest and was pleasantly surprised how much more efficiently we were able to use the Port - a-wrap while removing a large spar. Many Thanks
Enjoyed the video. I use the Stein RC2000. A great design by Reg Coates. Stein has a couple other excellent Friction lowering devices. But, if you already have a regular portawrap this video is right on. Thanks.
Thanks Patrick. I had assembled the pieces to make my own when I saw this and realized it would work better with the 'biner loop on the top strap. I was not aware then that anyone was making a top strap for the P-A-W and they are not readily available in the USA, as far as I can find. It's always good to see that someone who knows what they are doing thinks it's a good idea, before you start making stuff. Works great. Great work, as ever.
Thx! This was a useful tip as i just purchased a portawrap medium. Note that one inch straps with metal cam buckles with say 5m length of nylon tape can be found on eBay for a lot less than the Stein device but you have fashion your own method of connecting a carabiner to the strap, but pretty easy to do.
My Son and I have been in the tree business for 15 years now. We started with the porta wrap and used it for a few years. I’ve made a device similar to the porta wrap but fastens to the tree by a ratchet strap. It is 100 times easier to use than a porta wrap and it has some features on it that makes it our go to device when we do tree work. We haven’t used a porta wrap in years. It makes it so much easier to take the slack out of the rope. Also since we made the device we hardly use a GRC.
You just cranking out the slack? Some sort of crank device... I love a porta wrap, easy to move when you use some old rope.. we usually have a decent crew for big jobs, so having a few guys pull out the slack isnt a problem.. But this is a problem i might need to solve now that im the climber.. thanks for sharing
@@Vscustomprinting this is so much easier to use that a porta wrap I will never go back to the PW. It’s a sturdy device because it’s ratcheted to the tree. One man can take the slack easily. It’s not a crank device
Excellent work Brother. Thanks for this. I had pondered this awhile back and your info here cements my thoughts. Top strap it is.... why not, it malek perfect sense. 👌
As a newbie, I thought the PW would be floppy, so I bought a Stein that is designed to be used with a top strap. I really like the finish on the PW though. Not sure if its nickel plated or stainless steel, but coming from an aerospace background, I appreciate those materials. The Stein appears to be cad plated & alodined to protect from rusting but may be a similar but different coating.
If you weld an extra pin at the end of the porta wrap for the rope to sit in between 2 pins it stops any bind up,better if you can make your own from scratch that way the whole bollard can be a bit longer to make up for the 2nd pin making it a bit shorter
My thinking is that the porty dropping negates the risk of the rope fouling. With the porty stationary, you risk that loop of rope causing problems. I agree on the fixed bollard for big rigging.
And its way easier for new groundies to load it when its oriented like that. Looks great. How many times you see people struggling to orient it, im a one man owner / climber with lots of different groundies , ( we have other jobs) this wouldnt be an issue for big companies with dedicated groundies most likely.*
Good video but first of all I don’t think that will do anything for the slack in your line hang the Portawrap low to the ground, crank as much slack out as possible. I think what you were doing will not add the problem, although I do tend to redirect, lowering line out of the swing/drop zone like a fishing pole at times.
I have always used Stein lowering bollards, they come with an eye for mounting with a top strap. I dial in the height of my bollard with the top strap then lock it off with a timber hitch. I don't know why all you N.A climbers use the portawrap. It's just very poorly designed.
I dig, I’ll be adding this to my daily usage. Thanks for freely offering your knowledge to help better others in the trade ✊🏽
Appreciate it. - Patrick
That never occurred to me. Going forward I will be utilizing a top strap! Thank s so much for the tip.
I always considered the porta wrap marginal engineering at best. Stein has taken it up a notch for sure.
This week I applied the added strap and carabiner you suggest and was pleasantly surprised how much more efficiently we were able to use the Port - a-wrap while removing a large spar. Many Thanks
I always send my groundies to your videos - you have a good calm discussion every time and it’s always easily understood . Thanks again
Yes!
I was gonna but a fancy new stein, but this is the way for the poor workin man
Thanks for all you do for the community
Enjoyed the video. I use the Stein RC2000. A great design by Reg Coates. Stein has a couple other excellent Friction lowering devices. But, if you already have a regular portawrap this video is right on. Thanks.
Thanks Patrick. I had assembled the pieces to make my own when I saw this and realized it would work better with the 'biner loop on the top strap. I was not aware then that anyone was making a top strap for the P-A-W and they are not readily available in the USA, as far as I can find. It's always good to see that someone who knows what they are doing thinks it's a good idea, before you start making stuff. Works great. Great work, as ever.
Patrick, beautiful, succinct no nonsense demonstration and explanation, superb tip, will definitely try this system out, greetings from Ireland !
You Did a really good job Explaining that Patrick. Nice job
Thx! This was a useful tip as i just purchased a portawrap medium. Note that one inch straps with metal cam buckles with say 5m length of nylon tape can be found on eBay for a lot less than the Stein device but you have fashion your own method of connecting a carabiner to the strap, but pretty easy to do.
My Son and I have been in the tree business for 15 years now. We started with the porta wrap and used it for a few years. I’ve made a device similar to the porta wrap but fastens to the tree by a ratchet strap. It is 100 times easier to use than a porta wrap and it has some features on it that makes it our go to device when we do tree work. We haven’t used a porta wrap in years. It makes it so much easier to take the slack out of the rope. Also since we made the device we hardly use a GRC.
You just cranking out the slack? Some sort of crank device... I love a porta wrap, easy to move when you use some old rope.. we usually have a decent crew for big jobs, so having a few guys pull out the slack isnt a problem..
But this is a problem i might need to solve now that im the climber.. thanks for sharing
@@Vscustomprinting this is so much easier to use that a porta wrap I will never go back to the PW. It’s a sturdy device because it’s ratcheted to the tree. One man can take the slack easily. It’s not a crank device
We used to use something called a Bollard. It is essentially a ten inch pipe on a bracket that is fastened to the tree by a heavy winch strap.
@@roybatty5028 yes it’s similar to what your talking about but it has a feature on it that no other lowering device has
Right on, do you have a video?
Great advice. Something I never even thought about before. Thanks You are GREAT!
Suupergood idea, makes total sense! Thanx!
Great explanation, and it's a good thing to know. I will use this tomorrow .
I just started helping my brother rig and that porta wrap is a curse. Thank you for giving us another option!
Excellent work Brother. Thanks for this. I had pondered this awhile back and your info here cements my thoughts. Top strap it is.... why not, it malek perfect sense. 👌
Love it. What a valuable piece of advice! Thanks alot. Will be tested out in the coming felling season
excellent explanation
As a newbie, I thought the PW would be floppy, so I bought a Stein that is designed to be used with a top strap.
I really like the finish on the PW though. Not sure if its nickel plated or stainless steel, but coming from an aerospace background, I appreciate those materials.
The Stein appears to be cad plated & alodined to protect from rusting but may be a similar but different coating.
Great tutorial !
Also useful for decreasing damage to thin bark trees
Nice tech insight
Yes, good point Will, thanks
My stein 1000 came with one and I’ve always used it.
Good stuff as usual!
Thanks again
nice job
GREAT video.......
Good stuff.
Thanks Patrick! Where can you buy the stein strap?
If you weld an extra pin at the end of the porta wrap for the rope to sit in between 2 pins it stops any bind up,better if you can make your own from scratch that way the whole bollard can be a bit longer to make up for the 2nd pin making it a bit shorter
My thinking is that the porty dropping negates the risk of the rope fouling. With the porty stationary, you risk that loop of rope causing problems. I agree on the fixed bollard for big rigging.
Interesting
And its way easier for new groundies to load it when its oriented like that. Looks great. How many times you see people struggling to orient it, im a one man owner / climber with lots of different groundies , ( we have other jobs) this wouldnt be an issue for big companies with dedicated groundies most likely.*
Thank you very much for the video, I will be able to work better.
Solid advice Patrick👍 thank you.
On order from sappy supplies 👍
I will definitely be using this method. Does anyone do negative rigging lower than false crotch?
eccellente 👏👏👏
Any thoughts on the "jail break" lowering device?
I would like to try it, looks promising
Question - What size and type of rope would you suggest using with the Port-a-wrap. (the medium size unit?)
I would only use 1/2 or 9/16 with the medium porty
❤️👍👍
Should have done that today big red oaks .was sloppy with outt it..
The true classic Port A Wrap is a small wheel rim strapped to the tree 😉
Good video but first of all I don’t think that will do anything for the slack in your line hang the Portawrap low to the ground, crank as much slack out as possible. I think what you were doing will not add the problem, although I do tend to redirect, lowering line out of the swing/drop zone like a fishing pole at times.
Sedikit menjadi lebih paham , cara menggunakan tali,
Tadinya saya sehari hari menebang pohon tanpa tali pengaman
I just chain together bungie cords.
I have always used Stein lowering bollards, they come with an eye for mounting with a top strap. I dial in the height of my bollard with the top strap then lock it off with a timber hitch. I don't know why all you N.A climbers use the portawrap. It's just very poorly designed.