These videos are just fantastic. I've never torn into an FE motor, but I've done hours of research on them preparing for an upcoming overhaul...and these videos are one of the most comprehensive resources available. Great supplementation to a good shop manual, and browsing internet forums. Thank you for taking the time to put these together.
You’re doing a service to the community of builders in the hobby. I was on the FE forum website from the beginning until the forum was hijacked, I miss teaching people how to do things on the FE. They are a fun engine and they are very versatile.
Awesome!!! Your attention to the rear main sealing is great!!! I'd rather spend TWO DAYS on a rear seal than try to deal with a leak. Almost a swiss watch situation. Great technique, but anyplace you're using rtv would be much better served using anaerobic gasket maker (Primary brand, or others) in this application. I've seen rtv cause way too many problems.
Great videos! I know just the basics of internal combustion engines, but now I feel like I know a lot more. I really like the details on the oil system mods that you did. Keep up the good work!
good quality on your videos and good tips on checking for oil clearance. Your method is better than mostly all the ones I was taught. Like your channell!
I really appreciate these video's, even though I've been a mechanic for 30+ years I always learn something new or that I forgot. I was a little disappointed that you didn't show degreeing the cam after you mentioned you were going to, I've done it several times over the years, but always enjoy watching others explain how they do it. Thanks
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. While not too many 360 or 390's, I rebuilt many 361's & 391's in the early & mid 70's. (Worked for our local School system in the Bus Garage.
Just Recently Started Watching your videos and just in awe!! of such professional performance tear down and rebuild of engine’s knowledge and know how is Quality top notch!! Thanks for sharing
Great video! very thorough, especially all those very helpful points regarding the rear main bearing seal. That conical ring compressor is a real time saver, also prevents broken rings. Ring filing- I had to do it with a small rectangular India oil stone. Yes, it worked!
I only build sbc engines but I love watching all these build videos. Gotta admit your videos are the only ones that'll keep me interested enough to give a Ford build the time of day haha keep it up brother glad to be a long time sub here
Hi, I put that same 445 scat kit except the pistons were 10.5 to 1 flat top, in my .30over 390 last year and it really made a huge performance difference. The wrist pin locks were challenging at first, but once I figured it out they were a breeze, also they gave me a packet of molly lube for the rod bolts, thanks
I used to just love it when asked if they wanted their block align honed, the answer would be 'the crank turned fine when we tore it down'. I would certainly hope it had self clearanced with 100k+ miles on it!
GREAT JOB! Very clear communication skills. THANK YOU! I super glue on the main seal is a new trick for me. That has always been a problem. AGAIN, great job and thanks for the vidya!
This is fun, I've always wanted to build my own engine, but I've always been afraid to do it. keep the videos coming, I love this! Btw, I might be receiving a 390 engine soon. would love to build a ground pounder with it, it's time to send these Bowtie boys crying home to mama! lololol!
Awesome videos!! I am currently rebuilding a FE 360 engine, I got the truck for free from a buddy, 1976 f150 4x4, the truck sat under a tree in Oregon for 9 years, motor was full of water, bad stuff! Anyway, I have been working the truck and am currently at the engine build stage, so I been watching videos to assist with that build, found your videos and truly appreciate your meticulous nature..anyway, I had the block bored .030, bought some sealed power pistons and rings, did not turn the crank or rods..(did I mention this was supposed to be a budget build?).. one cylinder needed a sleeve, so $450.00 later, I started to assemble, crank is in, pistons and rods are in, oil galley plugs in, just waiting for my cam shaft and lifters..(Howards are taking their time with that..) anyway, love the videos, so thank you!!
This looks great. I have three pickups all with this engine and they behave like total garbage. I really can't justify the cost of tearing down and going through them but this gives me pretty fair insight on what I'll have installed if I ever get around to doing one. The teardown will most likely look nothing like this.
Heay, nice build buddy. I have a 390 FE sitting on my engine stand. I starting building it since high school. Never got it running it .40 over in pristine condition ready install. But never did all the work you went through. How much you that engine if worth? I took it out of a 68 ford ranchero.
One thing you might see if you can edit this to add that when tapping in the piston and rod assy, it's been my experience to have that crank throw rotated so that it is farthest away from the bore you are putting the piston in, that way you have room to get your hand in there to guide the rod bolts over the crank carefully. Sorry for the run on sentence. I love the detail you go into. I kinda wish you hadn't glossed over the oil galley plugs and the cam plate but it's pretty straight forward except the bit about a bolt and one of the plugs interfering. I'll figure it out. Also they talk about oil restrictors so the bottom end doesn't get pumped dry. I need to look into that. Big block Chevy restrictors are so easy, just replace the 2 plugs on either side of the cam at the rear with the restrictors.
I know you are building a Ford 400 of 351M. They finally made a Forged (4.250" stroke) includes a 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft, Forged "H" beam rods, oversize Forged Pistons, King rod and main bearings, a premium ring set, and a billet timing chain set. For $2300 and they all so make intake Adapter Plates for the Cleveland intakes. www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/02/Ford400/index2.php is the site. Thanks for the great video!
I put the block on its butt to install the cam. The rear cam plug can be installed before doing this. Using this method lefts you drop the cam straight in with less chance of nicking a bearing.
yea easy on the sealant on the rear main.. the gap is almost non existent but there.. I use enough to be able to see it is about all.. proof of amount is when you bolt the cap down.. some "squeeze" will come out.. The super-glue? awesome idea...
What brand of gauges and mics do you use? I love all your detail. And do it right the first time approach. I'd rather have the quality and correct measurements without doubt. I see them for 80 to 100 bucks. I believe the ones you have are about 4 to 600. I am really looking for guidance. I don't build for others but don't want crap tools that give false readings. I've always done bolt together pre built stuff and want to try myself to see if I am capable. Have a 5.3 from my 99 Silverado. 260k and want to rebuild it. Again thanks for everything you do for us stay at home tube junkies. I will def start giving to ur Chan on patreon.
i got a question for you my friend,buy the way love your vids and the vids on best heads was great,back to my question,on a 350 sbc what is the absolute max you would go on bore size for street and hauling use? i had a shop attempt to bore my block 0.20 over,they mic it and said they would all cleanup,put the block on jig and did all cylinders 20 over,problem is before #7 had a rust ring 1/2 down cylinder wall from blown gasket ,they took the block off jig ,didnt call me to tell me needed to open up more,got to machine shop seen what went on ,and asked why they didnt call me,no answer from them at all,so i told them to go ahead and clean them all up to equal bores,they said no problem,only they had to charge me for another bore cost,,so long story short 20 over didnt do it and im sure 40 would clean them all up,but i need to buy pistons and dont want same type crap to happen again,,so was thinking 60 over but did that in past ran fine,but didnt like long hauls and triple digit heat from travel,so what would you do at this point?also how can i get in touch with you for maybe some work for you if you do this anymore,seen your a instructer and really like your care and pride you put into your work,keep on with the vids great work
What torque wrench do you have? I had a shop fire a couple months back and lost everything including my snap on tw i had for years. Never made the switch to digital because i want the click not the beep and i see you have both. keep up the great work.
I am new to this but I thought on the roller cam you had to use a thrust bearing on the cam. I believe Com Cams has this. Is this not required. Again I am new to this. Great videos by the way
For me i do not lose interest at all. I think im going to try to build my first motor which is a FE 390, i wouldnt mind more detail. Not stroking it cause it has a factory forged crank in from what the numbers referance on the crank. Keep them coming thanks
Ok... About filing rings. You said we'd see the way to file the rings to the proper end gap with the ring filer tool, but while we did see the tool, we didn't see the process. With the filer on the other side of the shop, do you take each ring back several times to measure the gap in the bore, then walk again to file some more if necessary? And how do you measure the gap properly? Next shot was of a loaded piston in the ring compressor...
bigmac965 there is a technique on filing the rings using the regular filer, but as Myvintageiron7512 said is a long process. In short, put the filer in vice and start filing the edge of the ring going single direction towards the bace of the circle of the ring; that way you don't burr the ring. Also, very important to do it slowly with care and check your ring end gap with filler gauge using the factory specs.
I know this is an older video but I really need your help with this one. I'm running a 390 .60 over with a 428 crank and the cam is .609 until .629 exh lift on a lsa of 108 solid lift cam and mildly ported c8 heads. Would I do better with a .524 lift cam with these heads? I have watched many of your videos over and over and what I take from this video is that if I go more than .50 lift I'm actually loosing power. I am using 2.09 intake valves and 1.76 exhaust tapered valves and 1.55 dual springs. Any help on picking a better cam would be helpful. It's a drag truck at 3300lbs and it's got a 1.76 60 foot time. I can't help after watching you flow the stock heads flow numbers thinking i would do better with less lift..by the way I'm using a 3800 stall and a 3.89 gear with a spool if that helps. I leave at 2500 on the foot brake.
I have seen this mistake on fe engines I have rebuild for other people where they install the rear cam shaft freeze plug in backwards and the timing set won't match up and people have ran the engine this way..true story..maybe you could touch on that and the cam retaining plate in the front will bolt on two ways. Maybe you could tell us which way that bolts on..groove facing out or in.
Great videos. Thank you for being so thorough. I have a bit of a dilemma on my 390 build. I'm starting to assemble the short block after getting the parts back from the machine shop. When installing the new timing chain set (Comp Cams Double Roller), I noticed an unusual amount of chain deflection (slack). I can deflect the chain 1/4" on each side. The machine shop conducted the align hone twice: the first time the crank was too snug, the second time the crank spun free as it should. I asked the machinist how much material they removed from the main caps and they confirmed the bare minimum (about .002" to .003"). Do I need a shorter timing chain set? Cloyes offers a minus .005" and a minus .010". How do I know which one to get? Another engine builder said I can solve the issue by throwing away the Comp Cams timing set and getting a Cloyes standard size timing set. Apparently, Comp Cams chains are made oversees and can be on the far end of the specification. I appreciate any advice you can give.
Please help - I broke in the engine/camshaft this weekend (Joe Gibbs break in oil, prelubed with drill, motor started right away, 2200 RPM for 25 minutes). Drained engine oil and cut open oil filter and found quite a bit of gold and silver glitter/very small flakes that came out of the oil filter (nothing from the oil that came out of the pan). Is this normal? Oil pressure is 55 PSI cold and 20 PSI hot. Motor runs good. I'm nervous.
@@elibrock5199 are you sure all the oil galleries were cleaned out before you assembled the engine ? The problem with FE's is no valve adjustment. What was observed lifter preload? I always stick a ruler across the valve stems to see if they are straight. Gold flakes can come from the rod bushings. How did the piston pins feel ? You should not have metal in the filter. I put small magnets in each corner of the head near the drain back holes. Any metal in the filter went through your pump. Not good.
Older video, but I have a question. I’ve seen people put the timing chain on after pistons and some put it on before. When doing it after pistons, they need to find TDC on #1 to then align the chain. Any reason to put the chain on before or after pistons?
I have a 1959 FE 352 I'm building. I the cam does not have the retaining clip and the block has two small frost plugs where it would bolt up. I just have a small spring which rests against the timing cover and pushes against the fuel pump eccentric. Is it worth it to upgrade? I've got a Cloyes double roller setup like the one you have in the video.
So I may have missed it, but you didn't mention anything in this video about having to clearance the block for the 4.250 stroke crank and rod assy for this 390 to 445 build. I have watched several of your videos on this build, but I may have missed that one. I was going to do a 351W to 427 stroker and that engine you definitely had to clearance the block.
I had the experience to build a 352 and found that that rod numbers were the same as a 390 . Needles to say we replaced the pistons and crank and made a stroker out of the 352.
yeah that's all ford did as well the 352 is short stroke long rod 4" bore the 360 is same crank and rods as 352 with a .050 larger bore the 390 is longer stroke crank shorter beefier rod and same bore as the 360 the blocks are all the same
Hello I am putting together an old 360 fe (68). Great videos thanks for the great detail and insight. I have a question about the rear main seals and piston direction. Should the rear main seals be soaked in or rubbed with oil prior to install? (i guess the glue trick wouldn't work if the side seals were oiled up, but how about the round seal? Also when I took my pistons out i know which cylinders they go back in but I cannot tell which direction they go back in. I believe they are stock pistons as they have no markings on them. They have valve dish cutouts but no std .10 .20.30 etc. although there is a little notch that forms an arrow (sort of) on each piston between 2 of the valve cutouts on the lip of the piston. Thanks again great videos I love your unbiased way of building engines weather it be ford chev dodge or import. I am a mopar guy but I had this old ford f250 given to me and I can appreciate any old vehicle. I guess I have matured ;) PS engine ran good when I took it out so I just wanted to change gaskets as it was a mess, and in the process I discovered a valve that had just started to dhow signs of burning on 2 sides. some of the bearings were starting to show a little copper but no more than 25% Thanks again
I'm chasing a oil leak on a 445 stroker survival kit with a crank girdle set up and a top-loader,, I swear from what im seeing when prying tin shield between bell housing and block, away from block,, while running,,, looks like a sleeve turning slowly between the block and the crank flange like some kind of spacer, wondering if you have seen anything like that, Im not a Ford person and will try to make a video and post it here, thanx,
OK, after better cleaning and using a pry bar instead of a screwdriver to see better, The motor is chunking and spitting out rear main seal that catches a oil film ride around the the crank that made it look like it was under a strobe light.
Hi sir I’m trying to rebuild my 390 Ford engine and my intake/exhaust valves needs reconditioning but it’s more expensive doing that than buying a brand new stock valves. Do you think it’s a good a idea if I just replace them all with brand new ones? But how about the valve guides, stem, seat etc..? I would appreciate your reply
The guides and seats need to be checked out and repaired if necessary pairing new valves with worn seats and guides is like putting new wipers on a broken windsheild
Question if I may: On my stock 2-barrel FE 390 intake manifold, what is the purpose of the sheet metal cover that is riveted to the underside. Looks like there is a lot of hard carbon behind it. Can it be removed to clean out the carbon?
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks for the reply. Can the shield be removed to clean out all the crusty carbon deposits behind it? Grind off the rivets, tap and install bolts? Sorry to ask so many questions: never rebuilt a domestic V8 before and you are the most credible and thorough source on YT that I can find.
@@elibrock5199 yes absolutely take the shield off and clean all carbon off the intake it is also advisable to magnaflux the intake after cleaning if you take a sharp punch and work the rivet around counterclockwise it will screw out it has threads and yes you can tap the holes and use a bolt in it I also always do, also use loc tight on the threads when installing the shield back on
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks. I ended up grinding off the bolt heads, drilling and tapping to 3/8-24. Will use grade 8 flanged bolts with red Loctite. Will clean up and send to local machine shop for magnaflux. Getting closer to finalizing assembly. Will watch for new videos.
Hello, I am currently placing my 430 Buick engine from 1968. Unfortunately I have a damaged piston and I am looking for a used and original piston with STD dimension in good condition. Unfortunately, I can not find one anywhere, and without him I can not finish the engine assembly. I thought that the Lord doing so many engine repairs could have one. If I'm willing to buy him back so much. It would be a great help for me. Thank you in advance for your answer. Regards
I agree. It's a pitfall of making an instructional video. Sometimes it's hard to get everything right while trying to explain everything. The rear bearing cap was installed with a dry shell. Hope the bearing didn't spin.
Eagerly anticipating part 5. On a related note. What's the feasibility of boring a 352 to 4.050 and converting to a "stock" 390, assuming sufficient cylinder wall thickness.
Did you check bearing clearance with plastigage? Did I miss it? You have PMR, with all that time and work why wouldn’t you have gone with forged rods. That ruined it for me.
you should never check bearing clearance with Plastigage it is far to inaccurate use precision measuring tools so no you will never see me use it bit you will see the proper way to check clearences
I have always been told to never ever spin a crank in the bearings until all the mains have been torked because the bearing is not round until its been torked. I keep seeing you spinning that crank in those bearings without the caps even present yet. Why do you do that?
These videos are just fantastic. I've never torn into an FE motor, but I've done hours of research on them preparing for an upcoming overhaul...and these videos are one of the most comprehensive resources available. Great supplementation to a good shop manual, and browsing internet forums. Thank you for taking the time to put these together.
Glad to help!
You’re doing a service to the community of builders in the hobby. I was on the FE forum website from the beginning until the forum was hijacked, I miss teaching people how to do things on the FE. They are a fun engine and they are very versatile.
Just want to say thanks for taking the extra time on this build to show and explain in detail the procedure involved in building a 390.
your welcome
This was excellent. Thank you. Getting ready to rebuild the 390 in my 64 Tbird.
Great to watch all of this.
Awesome!!! Your attention to the rear main sealing is great!!! I'd rather spend TWO DAYS on a rear seal than try to deal with a leak. Almost a swiss watch situation. Great technique, but anyplace you're using rtv would be much better served using anaerobic gasket maker (Primary brand, or others) in this application. I've seen rtv cause way too many problems.
Great videos! I know just the basics of internal combustion engines, but now I feel like I know a lot more. I really like the details on the oil system mods that you did.
Keep up the good work!
good quality on your videos and good tips on checking for oil clearance. Your method is better than mostly all the ones I was taught. Like your channell!
I really appreciate these video's, even though I've been a mechanic for 30+ years I always learn something new
or that I forgot. I was a little disappointed that you didn't show degreeing the cam after you mentioned you were going to,
I've done it several times over the years, but always enjoy watching others explain how they do it. Thanks
Appreciate your detailed videos of 390 build, I'm just about to start a 390 build. Thanks a bunch!
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. While not too many 360 or 390's, I rebuilt many 361's & 391's in the early & mid 70's. (Worked for our local School system in the Bus Garage.
Your videos warm my heart.
All of ur video are incredible!!! Never to long for the guy who is serious..
These FE videos are really great! Thanks so much!
Just Recently Started Watching your videos and just in awe!! of such professional performance tear down and rebuild of engine’s knowledge and know how is Quality top notch!! Thanks for sharing
Great video. Thank you i have been watching ur channel for a few years now. Im in louisville ky. Keep doin what you have been doin
Great video. Always entertaining, interesting and informative. Thanks for putting them up.
Thank you sir. Great stuff to watch my engine going back together with such expertise.
Great video! very thorough, especially all those very helpful points regarding the rear main bearing seal. That conical ring compressor is a real time saver, also prevents broken rings. Ring filing- I had to do it with a small rectangular India oil stone. Yes, it worked!
Thanks for this FE series.
Makes me want to pull out my motor and go to town on it.
I only build sbc engines but I love watching all these build videos. Gotta admit your videos are the only ones that'll keep me interested enough to give a Ford build the time of day haha keep it up brother glad to be a long time sub here
Some people like to build good engines .not boat anchors
Hi, I put that same 445 scat kit except the pistons were 10.5 to 1 flat top, in my .30over 390 last year and it really made a huge performance difference. The wrist pin locks were challenging at first, but once I figured it out they were a breeze, also they gave me a packet of molly lube for the rod bolts, thanks
I used to just love it when asked if they wanted their block align honed, the answer would be 'the crank turned fine when we tore it down'. I would certainly hope it had self clearanced with 100k+ miles on it!
thanks for doing this. I have a 66 tbird with FE and it needs rebuilt.
Soap and water with pressure washer does a great job too. 3000# PS really cleans out all orifices. Leaf blower is a good idea also.
GREAT JOB! Very clear communication skills. THANK YOU! I super glue on the main seal is a new trick for me. That has always been a problem. AGAIN, great job and thanks for the vidya!
Thank you for your thorough videos, so helpful
Great stuff to attend to! It is all in details!
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
I enjou your videos on the FE engines I ran the FEs for years
Great vis, thank you!
Best fe videos around
This is fun, I've always wanted to build my own engine, but I've always been afraid to do it. keep the videos coming, I love this! Btw, I might be receiving a 390 engine soon. would love to build a ground pounder with it, it's time to send these Bowtie boys crying home to mama! lololol!
390 is not a good engine to start with.
Great videos as usual.
Awesome videos!! I am currently rebuilding a FE 360 engine, I got the truck for free from a buddy, 1976 f150 4x4, the truck sat under a tree in Oregon for 9 years, motor was full of water, bad stuff! Anyway, I have been working the truck and am currently at the engine build stage, so I been watching videos to assist with that build, found your videos and truly appreciate your meticulous nature..anyway, I had the block bored .030, bought some sealed power pistons and rings, did not turn the crank or rods..(did I mention this was supposed to be a budget build?).. one cylinder needed a sleeve, so $450.00 later, I started to assemble, crank is in, pistons and rods are in, oil galley plugs in, just waiting for my cam shaft and lifters..(Howards are taking their time with that..) anyway, love the videos, so thank you!!
Nice!
37:30 (people are losing interest if videos are longer). Who are those people? This is not enough video. Really great series on FE. Thank you.
The Junoes I don't think so. Building an engine with this old school type engine needs lots of detail because it's not a well known popular engine
I am admire your work nice
i love this super fe video in depth greatness videos be blessed in Jesus name man
Love the vids ty
Yeah buddy. Made my night
i use stp on the bearings ect, rings, cam.. works good!
This looks great. I have three pickups all with this engine and they behave like total garbage. I really can't justify the cost of tearing down and going through them but this gives me pretty fair insight on what I'll have installed if I ever get around to doing one. The teardown will most likely look nothing like this.
Heay, nice build buddy. I have a 390 FE sitting on my engine stand. I starting building it since high school. Never got it running it .40 over in pristine condition ready install. But never did all the work you went through. How much you that engine if worth? I took it out of a 68 ford ranchero.
One thing you might see if you can edit this to add that when tapping in the piston and rod assy, it's been my experience to have that crank throw rotated so that it is farthest away from the bore you are putting the piston in, that way you have room to get your hand in there to guide the rod bolts over the crank carefully. Sorry for the run on sentence. I love the detail you go into. I kinda wish you hadn't glossed over the oil galley plugs and the cam plate but it's pretty straight forward except the bit about a bolt and one of the plugs interfering. I'll figure it out. Also they talk about oil restrictors so the bottom end doesn't get pumped dry. I need to look into that. Big block Chevy restrictors are so easy, just replace the 2 plugs on either side of the cam at the rear with the restrictors.
the rear seal on that engine looks a little complicated, glad your doing it! ha ha
Thanks for the video
GREAT video ! thanks...............
I would definitely have you build my engine
I know you are building a Ford 400 of 351M. They finally made a Forged (4.250" stroke) includes a 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft, Forged "H" beam rods, oversize Forged Pistons, King rod and main bearings, a premium ring set, and a billet timing chain set. For $2300 and they all so make intake Adapter Plates for the Cleveland intakes. www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2007/02/Ford400/index2.php is the site. Thanks for the great video!
Great work
LS 7 sounds good
Nice rear main seal install trick
I put the block on its butt to install the cam. The rear cam plug can be installed before doing this. Using this method lefts you drop the cam straight in with less chance of nicking a bearing.
On the rear main I've seen guys just slightly bend the pointed tip on the pin to prevent it from going into the seals when installing.
yea easy on the sealant on the rear main.. the gap is almost non existent but there.. I use enough to be able to see it is about all.. proof of amount is when you bolt the cap down.. some "squeeze" will come out.. The super-glue? awesome idea...
Good video on this build when you gap the rings how far down the cylinder do you have to go.
What brand of gauges and mics do you use? I love all your detail. And do it right the first time approach. I'd rather have the quality and correct measurements without doubt. I see them for 80 to 100 bucks. I believe the ones you have are about 4 to 600. I am really looking for guidance. I don't build for others but don't want crap tools that give false readings. I've always done bolt together pre built stuff and want to try myself to see if I am capable. Have a 5.3 from my 99 Silverado. 260k and want to rebuild it. Again thanks for everything you do for us stay at home tube junkies. I will def start giving to ur Chan on patreon.
The tools are Mitutoyo and Starrett
i got a question for you my friend,buy the way love your vids and the vids on best heads was great,back to my question,on a 350 sbc what is the absolute max you would go on bore size for street and hauling use? i had a shop attempt to bore my block 0.20 over,they mic it and said they would all cleanup,put the block on jig and did all cylinders 20 over,problem is before #7 had a rust ring 1/2 down cylinder wall from blown gasket ,they took the block off jig ,didnt call me to tell me needed to open up more,got to machine shop seen what went on ,and asked why they didnt call me,no answer from them at all,so i told them to go ahead and clean them all up to equal bores,they said no problem,only they had to charge me for another bore cost,,so long story short 20 over didnt do it and im sure 40 would clean them all up,but i need to buy pistons and dont want same type crap to happen again,,so was thinking 60 over but did that in past ran fine,but didnt like long hauls and triple digit heat from travel,so what would you do at this point?also how can i get in touch with you for maybe some work for you if you do this anymore,seen your a instructer and really like your care and pride you put into your work,keep on with the vids great work
What torque wrench do you have? I had a shop fire a couple months back and lost everything including my snap on tw i had for years. Never made the switch to digital because i want the click not the beep and i see you have both. keep up the great work.
Its a snapon
I am new to this but I thought on the roller cam you had to use a thrust bearing on the cam. I believe Com Cams has this. Is this not required. Again I am new to this. Great videos by the way
For me i do not lose interest at all. I think im going to try to build my first motor which is a FE 390, i wouldnt mind more detail. Not stroking it cause it has a factory forged crank in from what the numbers referance on the crank. Keep them coming thanks
what do you clean the journals with before final assembly in case of finger prints acid ect ?
Ok... About filing rings. You said we'd see the way to file the rings to the proper end gap with the ring filer tool, but while we did see the tool, we didn't see the process. With the filer on the other side of the shop, do you take each ring back several times to measure the gap in the bore, then walk again to file some more if necessary? And how do you measure the gap properly? Next shot was of a loaded piston in the ring compressor...
yes you got it exactly right that's how it's done
bigmac965 there is a technique on filing the rings using the regular filer, but as Myvintageiron7512 said is a long process. In short, put the filer in vice and start filing the edge of the ring going single direction towards the bace of the circle of the ring; that way you don't burr the ring. Also, very important to do it slowly with care and check your ring end gap with filler gauge using the factory specs.
I know this is an older video but I really need your help with this one. I'm running a 390 .60 over with a 428 crank and the cam is .609 until .629 exh lift on a lsa of 108 solid lift cam and mildly ported c8 heads. Would I do better with a .524 lift cam with these heads? I have watched many of your videos over and over and what I take from this video is that if I go more than .50 lift I'm actually loosing power. I am using 2.09 intake valves and 1.76 exhaust tapered valves and 1.55 dual springs. Any help on picking a better cam would be helpful. It's a drag truck at 3300lbs and it's got a 1.76 60 foot time. I can't help after watching you flow the stock heads flow numbers thinking i would do better with less lift..by the way I'm using a 3800 stall and a 3.89 gear with a spool if that helps. I leave at 2500 on the foot brake.
Most important remember the oil restrictor plug in the block. Or you'll have 4 lbs of oil pressure
Thanks for the lessons . I have a ford 390 block. Do you have a rebuild 390 motor
I have seen this mistake on fe engines I have rebuild for other people where they install the rear cam shaft freeze plug in backwards and the timing set won't match up and people have ran the engine this way..true story..maybe you could touch on that and the cam retaining plate in the front will bolt on two ways. Maybe you could tell us which way that bolts on..groove facing out or in.
Hi sir what would be a good cam for my stock 390. I would like for it to have a nice idle also. Thanks for your time.
Great videos. Thank you for being so thorough. I have a bit of a dilemma on my 390 build. I'm starting to assemble the short block after getting the parts back from the machine shop. When installing the new timing chain set (Comp Cams Double Roller), I noticed an unusual amount of chain deflection (slack). I can deflect the chain 1/4" on each side. The machine shop conducted the align hone twice: the first time the crank was too snug, the second time the crank spun free as it should. I asked the machinist how much material they removed from the main caps and they confirmed the bare minimum (about .002" to .003"). Do I need a shorter timing chain set? Cloyes offers a minus .005" and a minus .010". How do I know which one to get? Another engine builder said I can solve the issue by throwing away the Comp Cams timing set and getting a Cloyes standard size timing set. Apparently, Comp Cams chains are made oversees and can be on the far end of the specification. I appreciate any advice you can give.
Please help - I broke in the engine/camshaft this weekend (Joe Gibbs break in oil, prelubed with drill, motor started right away, 2200 RPM for 25 minutes). Drained engine oil and cut open oil filter and found quite a bit of gold and silver glitter/very small flakes that came out of the oil filter (nothing from the oil that came out of the pan). Is this normal? Oil pressure is 55 PSI cold and 20 PSI hot. Motor runs good. I'm nervous.
@@elibrock5199 are you sure all the oil galleries were cleaned out before you assembled the engine ? The problem with FE's is no valve adjustment. What was observed lifter preload? I always stick a ruler across the valve stems to see if they are straight.
Gold flakes can come from the rod bushings. How did the piston pins feel ?
You should not have metal in the filter.
I put small magnets in each corner of the head near the drain back holes. Any metal in the filter went through your pump. Not good.
I have rebuilt over 400 engines. Cam break- in is a bullshit myth. I have never had a cam lobe go flat.
Older video, but I have a question. I’ve seen people put the timing chain on after pistons and some put it on before. When doing it after pistons, they need to find TDC on #1 to then align the chain. Any reason to put the chain on before or after pistons?
I have a 1959 FE 352 I'm building. I the cam does not have the retaining clip and the block has two small frost plugs where it would bolt up. I just have a small spring which rests against the timing cover and pushes against the fuel pump eccentric. Is it worth it to upgrade? I've got a Cloyes double roller setup like the one you have in the video.
I’m rebuilding my 390 with original rods. Can you tell me the correct way to install them? Iv heard so many mixed opinions. Thanks!
So I may have missed it, but you didn't mention anything in this video about having to clearance the block for the 4.250 stroke crank and rod assy for this 390 to 445 build. I have watched several of your videos on this build, but I may have missed that one. I was going to do a 351W to 427 stroker and that engine you definitely had to clearance the block.
No need, they usually fit without clearancing. Have two in the shop right now, both kits dropped right in.
I had the experience to build a 352 and found that that rod numbers were the same as a 390 . Needles to say we replaced the pistons and crank and made a stroker out of the 352.
yeah that's all ford did as well the 352 is short stroke long rod 4" bore the 360 is same crank and rods as 352 with a .050 larger bore the 390 is longer stroke crank shorter beefier rod and same bore as the 360 the blocks are all the same
Hello I am putting together an old 360 fe (68). Great videos thanks for the great detail and insight. I have a question about the rear main seals and piston direction.
Should the rear main seals be soaked in or rubbed with oil prior to install? (i guess the glue trick wouldn't work if the side seals were oiled up, but how about the round seal?
Also when I took my pistons out i know which cylinders they go back in but I cannot tell which direction they go back in.
I believe they are stock pistons as they have no markings on them. They have valve dish cutouts but no std .10 .20.30 etc. although there is a little notch that forms an arrow (sort of) on each piston between 2 of the valve cutouts on the lip of the piston.
Thanks again great videos I love your unbiased way of building engines weather it be ford chev dodge or import.
I am a mopar guy but I had this old ford f250 given to me and I can appreciate any old vehicle. I guess I have matured ;)
PS engine ran good when I took it out so I just wanted to change gaskets as it was a mess, and in the process I discovered a valve that had just started to dhow signs of burning on 2 sides. some of the bearings were starting to show a little copper but no more than 25%
Thanks again
What about how to actually install the rings onto the pistons? How you actually get them into the ring grooves and how you orient the gaps??
Use a piston ring installer. Snap On make a good one!
Check out his other videos. He's already covered ring orientation and more detail on the piston installation.
Where during the build did you install the cam bearings, I couldn't find it. Thanks
How much power will i get with a edelbrock performer intake ..performer heads ..a thumper cam and MSD ignition system ?? On a fe360
Did you put the Crank in Dry ? I did not notice you lube the Crank Bearings before dropping the Crank in.
Garry Harris if u go to 13 min 19 seconds on the vidio u can see him lube the crank bearings
what is the nose size on a new standard crankshaft where the balancer goes in?
I'm chasing a oil leak on a 445 stroker survival kit with a crank girdle set up and a top-loader,, I swear from what im seeing when prying tin shield between bell housing and block, away from block,, while running,,, looks like a sleeve turning slowly between the block and the crank flange like some kind of spacer, wondering if you have seen anything like that, Im not a Ford person and will try to make a video and post it here, thanx,
OK, after better cleaning and using a pry bar instead of a screwdriver to see better, The motor is chunking and spitting out rear main seal that catches a oil film ride around the the crank that made it look like it was under a strobe light.
Thoughts on plasti gage for checking clearances?
Hi sir I’m trying to rebuild my 390 Ford engine and my intake/exhaust valves needs reconditioning but it’s more expensive doing that than buying a brand new stock valves. Do you think it’s a good a idea if I just replace them all with brand new ones? But how about the valve guides, stem, seat etc..? I would appreciate your reply
The guides and seats need to be checked out and repaired if necessary pairing new valves with worn seats and guides is like putting new wipers on a broken windsheild
I seen them relaped an did well if ya have the money new is always better
That free standing cam at the beginning was making me NERVOUS!
On a Chevy block with a two piece seal for the crank. Should these seals be off set like this too?
many builders do yes
When installing the timing set, I noticed a 352 cast into the block. Was this originally a 352 bored out to 390 or does it mean nothing?
SMOBY44 it means nothing to be concerned about, most but not all fe’s have that on them
Thanks, good to know. My Ford experience is limited and the 352, 360, and 390 are the only FE's Iv'e ever dealt with. So that 352 caught my attention.
Question if I may: On my stock 2-barrel FE 390 intake manifold, what is the purpose of the sheet metal cover that is riveted to the underside. Looks like there is a lot of hard carbon behind it. Can it be removed to clean out the carbon?
it's a heat shield to keep hot oil off the intake
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks for the reply. Can the shield be removed to clean out all the crusty carbon deposits behind it? Grind off the rivets, tap and install bolts? Sorry to ask so many questions: never rebuilt a domestic V8 before and you are the most credible and thorough source on YT that I can find.
@@elibrock5199 yes absolutely take the shield off and clean all carbon off the intake it is also advisable to magnaflux the intake after cleaning if you take a sharp punch and work the rivet around counterclockwise it will screw out it has threads and yes you can tap the holes and use a bolt in it I also always do, also use loc tight on the threads when installing the shield back on
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks. I ended up grinding off the bolt heads, drilling and tapping to 3/8-24. Will use grade 8 flanged bolts with red Loctite. Will clean up and send to local machine shop for magnaflux. Getting closer to finalizing assembly. Will watch for new videos.
Do you use Lubricant on the Main and rod bolts?
Hello, I am currently placing my 430 Buick engine from 1968. Unfortunately I have a damaged piston and I am looking for a used and original piston with STD dimension in good condition. Unfortunately, I can not find one anywhere, and without him I can not finish the engine assembly. I thought that the Lord doing so many engine repairs could have one. If I'm willing to buy him back so much. It would be a great help for me. Thank you in advance for your answer. Regards
You don’t like to use a engine stand?
I think he forgot to put some oil or assembly lube on the rear bearing before installing it.
I agree. It's a pitfall of making an instructional video. Sometimes it's hard to get everything right while trying to explain everything. The rear bearing cap was installed with a dry shell. Hope the bearing didn't spin.
Have you ever rebuilt a rotary, sounds like it would take you years.
What if there is too much crankshaft end play? How do you correct that? Can that crank a flexplate?
you either have a bad crank or wiped out thrust bearing or both you need to take it apart and inspect it
Did you have to get a new set of main bearings after it was aligned honed?
I didn't half to but I did
Eagerly anticipating part 5. On a related note. What's the feasibility of boring a 352 to 4.050 and converting to a "stock" 390, assuming sufficient cylinder wall thickness.
Hi, I did not see you index the rings on the piston. do you still do that?
Oh yeah always stagger the gaps
@8:41 you say the cam is really nice and turns by hand but you haven't turned it?
Do you torque the caps in a sequence or does it not matter?
Start in the middel and work your way to the outside honestly it does not really matter with individual caps but middel out is a good idea
Se pueden montar los sellos sin sacar el motor
Check this out i like to use deburing the ring gap cutter a diamond file in stead of a file 😁
No Lube or anti-seize on the main bolts???
Did you check bearing clearance with plastigage? Did I miss it?
You have PMR, with all that time and work why wouldn’t you have gone with forged rods. That ruined it for me.
you should never check bearing clearance with Plastigage it is far to inaccurate use precision measuring tools so no you will never see me use it bit you will see the proper way to check clearences
I saw him he did not but he use a mic tool ck them out
Those are forged rods from Scat
I have always been told to never ever spin a crank in the bearings until all the mains have been torked because the bearing is not round until its been torked. I keep seeing you spinning that crank in those bearings without the caps even present yet. Why do you do that?
Why didnt you use assembly lube on the cam lobe?
Captain Howdy because roller cam
It's a roller cam there is no need I will add some to the lifters
because he is an amateur he not even use plastic gage to check clearances
He does not use plastigage because he uses micrometers to check bearing clearance. Which is the proper way to do it!
is the only way to see the real clearance