What's up Professor. You taught me how to clock motors at UTI. Now I'm a Supervisor at a feedstuff mill pm'ing Diesel equipment and train shuttle cars. You were my best teacher, respect. Keep doing ur thing, God bless. David Hansen
Hey man. Thanks for the video. I went to NTI awhile back and I miss all this. You are a good teacher. Thanks for the refresher course as I am building my own FE. 👍 you’re the man. Subscribed.
If you think this is difficult, just think about the guy that started with a couple blocks of raw material and figured out how to create this marvel to begin with. If I ponder it to long I may wind up having a meltdown. Thanks for the vid, I'll be learning more about this.
I was cheering when you talked about "bored out" and "having a cam"! I like it when they say "three quarter cam" or "full race cam" too... Thanks, man..
That's from the old days way back in the 1950's cam makers like Duntov had cams for race or street, if anyone under age 70 uses the terminology it is due to having their Grandpa or elder say it.
Copy and pasted from www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/cam-valvetrain/tech-quickie-what-is-a-34-race-camshaft/ The term 3/4 race originated in the ‘50s as the burgeoning hot-rod industry was modifying Ford Flatheads to drag race on airport runways and attempt top-speed runs on dry lake beds. The legendary Ed Winfield was one the early pioneers in grinding camshafts with more aggressive lobe profiles, and the cams were often labeled as full race for promotional purposes. “And then some guys wanted a milder cam that could also be used on the street, so they called it a three-quarter race cam because it didn’t have as much duration and lift,” explains John MacKichan of the Speedway Motors Museum of American Speed in Lincoln, Nebraska. Occasionally the term “¾ race cam” pops up in conversation, usually with veteran hot rodders or nostalgia groups. Sometimes you’ll see it in print ads and online product listings. From a purely technical viewpoint it means little in the way of explaining a camshaft’s performance potential. It’s just one of those glorious reminders of the early days when camshaft grinders had furious rivalries on the track and in the media. It’s also a significant milestone in a developing enterprise that snowballed into what we now recognize as the street-performance market.
Just want to say thank you so much for your videos. After more than a year and much money I have most of my parts in, still waiting for a custom cam then I can start building. I have read Barry's books and watched YT videos but yours have been the most help. As I build, my laptop will be with me and your videos will be on the screen.
It was great to have a quick refresher on this, it was 8 years ago that I went through Hot Rod at the Avendale UTI. Window shopping for cams for my FE just got easy again. Thanks!
"Well yeah that's cause you don't have 80% cylinder leakage anymore" Gave me a chuckle. Also your stereotypical "guy who's excited about his new motor" voice is bang on.
Thanks for all the great information! I have an old 3/4 ton Dodge 4x4 with a roller cam LA 360. I would like to put a 4 inch stroker crank in it. I have several friends that have been building race/hot rod engines for decades. And as they help me spec out this engine on paper, I have to keep reminding them that setting up this engine is almost the polar opposite as to what they normally do. LOL. I want torque over H.P. I am more concerned with velocity than flow in the heads, I don't need 10.5 :1 compression. Etc. This engine normally operates between 1200 and 3600 rpm. They are used to building 4500-6500+ rpm powerband engines. We have a few laughs when they get into some "excited" conversations about cams, pistons, porting, etc. And I have to remind them this set up is opposite of what they normally build. LOL. 👍😁
well I gotta say, it is nice to find someone with a real understanding of cams / cam timing on tube... Been doing this for a living since the 70's and some of the engine videos I have seen? well I think you know... Another thing.. "when cam timing is checked" I have always done this right after installing the crank.. it is such a pain in the ass to deal with pistons, rings and I have even seen guys install heads and pushrods first.. ughh... Gotta guess you have a few motors under your belt.. :) Guys would do well to pay attention to this method..
Honestly bud! Your series of videos are utterly brilliant! You guid us through ALL the issues ever to come across in engine building! Your attention (being as understandable as possible) to detail is again brilliant. A true comprehensive attention to detail build series of videos for Ford builds! I’m building my very first v8 a Ford 400 from a 72 LTD 2 door hard top! I know a bit about the motor thanks to watching you and a couple of other guys! But your a dedicated Ford guy that has had the most information on the Ford family! I k ow the heads are 2V as is the intake! Yes I’m going to start with better pistons! But I’d love to get over 500hp from this motor! To see you build one would be awesome! Hey! Beggars can’t be choosers! As I know what needs to be done! Thank you again for your excellent help and information in these videos!!!
So glad you're a detail "nut", I wish to bring my '62 Ford Galaxie 500 XL 352 to you...please; it will become a Mayberry Sheriff's patrol cruiser replica. I promised Don Knotts years ago, so, I have to see it through, I've waited long enough. A short leisurely drive from SoCal., right? Can you squeeze me in?
Love ya vids.me brother in law been building engine's for over 50 years he taught me true tdc is a few degrees back from tdc.i ask him why he said because your timing the engine in overlap not ture tdc.thats how I do it everyone different.
Whoa whoa were's part 4? I agree about the right cam for a truck. My 76 F250 has a very nice RV style cam. Instant throttle response. It's pretty much done at about 3500 rpm though. Just more noise and less gas.
You can buy cams now that have a nasty lopey idle to them, but are actually fairly tame grinds. I forget the name of them, but I think speedway motors sells them.
Yeah, It's like when you see a car with a 14/71 blower at a car show with a huge cam that hardly runs, and you know it isn't going to see any road miles. The trouble with fitting bigger cams is , you get to a certain limit where the cam does not generate enough vacuum to work the vacuum brake booster. A workaround is to fit a vacuum pump off of a light truck (stay away from the alternators with built in pumps , as they are usually 24 volt) I like the unit from the ford econoline 7.3 , they are a small self contained unit and are easy to make brackets for. Nobody ever said there was such thing as a perfect compromise.
@@vortecsmmdang6794 the video may exist. From the get-go of the FE engine Series this engine is for a customer who is named in the first few videos. He even has banter back and forth in the comment section. Go look him up
You could put a big choppy cam in a 4x4 with 35s but you'd NEED a high stall torque converter with a good trans cooler. Wouldn't be the best daily street driver or have good street manners (i.e. 3000rpm+ stall under load, so it always sound like you're trying to race lol.) Performance wise, it'd be exactly what they'd probably want. Just got to be aware of the pros and cons is all
Thank You, for this video. You mentioned compression Ratio, the majority of the time people I speak with are talking about static compression, I have not talk to many people including other professional mechanics that know what dynamic compression is and what it's importance is when building an engine. Is this something you would be willing to discuss in a video? What should dynamic compression be for pump gas? As a side note I recently installed 3 different Lunati cams in 3 different engines and all 3 cams were retarded 4 degrees from straight up and I adjusted them by changing the position of the crank gear which put them at +or- .5 to 1 degree of straight up.The cams were all VooDoo hyd. flat tappet, but the engines were 2 BB fords and a SB dodge. How weird is that? lol. Thanks again, I really enjoy your video's.
Check out this vid from Pete's garage. Lot of theory but might help answer your questions. ruclips.net/video/FzKOx3lZM0Y/видео.html&list=PLadDQnvFIb-m6WB3XfMiETYdGMlnHJXy2&index=6
I am also building a 390 and I have a question. So before the timing chain and gear is installed, there is a plate that is installed with 2 philliips head bolts. (the same ones you used the torch on to heat and remove them.) Well what do I touqre them to when intalling them, and do I use a phillpis bit attached to a tourqe wrench to tighten them? Thanks a bunch! Cheers from Kansas!
Hey @Myvintageiron7512 I have a f100 with a 360FE and it seems like I have oil coming out the exhaust. I have been told numerous times it could be the timing. It has been cammed and has a 4 barrel intake/carb including headers. What could be causing this? Motor runs great and isn't down on power or anything. Thanks in advance
Hey there!! Love your videos. I have a 69 f250 4x4 w/360. Can I put a top end kit(intake, carb, heads) without rebuilding the whole motor? Also what cam would you suggest for that set up? Or should I just leave the stock cam ?
Hey, I have a similar question. A 79 f250 4x4 w/ a 390 I want to build for performance towing, not performance racing. Want a Sniper set up instead of carb but do not know where to start with cam or stroker etc. I,m ignorant but not incapable of learning.
Hey man, I love your videos.i have vortec roller cam motor that I have broken in and driven about 250 miles. When I change the oil, can I use synthetic or do you recommend another oil.
What you failed to ask the guy with the truck who wanted the cam was, what gear ratio is he running in his drive train. If the guy had a 2500 stall speed converter and 456 or 488 gears in his rear differentials then yes he could run a higher duration cam. Trucks with big tires have more than just one or two factors that need to be looked at. With big tires, gear ratio is as important as engine specs. like I said if this guy is going to be operating above 3500 RPM most of the time, he could run more duration.
i came across your channel while researching how to rebuild my 390 fe motor out of my classic car i'm doing a restore on a 1966 ford thunderbird ... i want to rebuild it but give it a little more low end torque ( it s a HEAVY car) and sound nice .... NO im not hot rodding it lol what kind of cam would u suggest summit racing suggested the following 519 lift 224 duration 110 lobe set compcam 92616 valve springs 421.99 whats your thoughts on it
The one thing I wanted to know is how you bushed the cam gear for the 1 °. Advance. And that part you kept out of the video. Every thing else I know. But thanks for the vid
Great vids, I know this is off topic BUT !! If someone touches your new main bearings on the critical surface, can you clean them with alcohol or something then oil them ? Or are they junk.
Cam timing (0, 2, 4 degrees BTDC) is set by the installer. You make it seem like cam timing set by the cam manufacturer. Manufacturers only give recommendation. You need to make a correction to the viewers. This “wrong cam right cam” based on cam timing makes no sense. Maybe you wanted to say duration and lift. That can be measured and compared to the specs. Next time get a three key adjustable crank sprocket. You can make multiple adjustments to cam timing that way. 😉
hey my friend iam building a 351w turbo stock bottom end with all new bearings and rings, what is the weak spot on this block, 93 engine out of a truck, can I go 500hp 500tq with out breaking??????????? what is a safe power limit. thank you so much love your work.
Measured lobe lift was .300 thou, but advertised lift was .525 thou.... using 1:71 rocker arms? What if you used 1:6 arms? Wouldnt you get less lift than the advertised lift? So You would need to use the right rocker with the cam to get the advertised lift?
theravedaddy, just multiply the lobe lift by the rocker ratio and you'll get the valve lift. If they advertise the valve lift with using a 1.7:1 rocker and you are going to use 1.6, you'll have less than advertises lift. You have to use the same rocker ratio they used to get the advertised lift.
So my bracket racing truck weights 3300 lbs with a 3800 stall and 426 cu in fe engine and I'm leaving off the line on a foot brake with a c6 tranny. I run quarter mile and 1/8th mile so what cam would you recommend? I am using mildly ported truck heads with 2.09 intake valves and 1.70 exhaust valves. Cranking compression was measured at 195 psi if that helps.
Whatever cam specs were used in the 1967 AC Cobra 427 side oiler motor,. My Uncle back in the 70's had a Cobra when I went to live with him from age 15-18, he was an actor and 2 of his buddies also had Cobras, My Uncle showed it to me the 1st time and I thought it was a big block Chevy in an MG, I was amazed to hear it was a Ford motor cause I went to the Winternationals in Pomona every year since I was a child, my buddies uncle was Bob Banfield inland empire newsman for ABC he gave us free tickets for the tower side and pit passes etc, anyways Fords were not really fast, the few that were were rare, but that Cobra actually had me kissing the ground when I got out of it! As it idled in the driveway you could see puffs of air blowing dust around 10 feet away from the side pipes, the engine was a monster!
I have a question for you vintageiron. It’s unrelated to this video but since it’s your recent one I’m hoping you’ll see it. I have an engine that was built out of a block that started life as a 4 bolt main 350 crate engine from Mexico from around the time of the last target master badge or early Goodwrench badge. The block has the provision for the dipstick on both sides, the oil pan installed currently deletes the passenger side dipstick entry (no bump out). So I’m forced to use the drivers side entry; here’s the issue, when I got a dipstick for the drivers side (labeled as “all small blocks 55-79”) the tube OD to press in measures .430”. The drilled hole in the block to accept the tube is .375”ish. Is there a oddball dipstick that was produced for this? I have seen something about a truck 2 piece dipstick that had a tube that inserted internally down to almost the bottom of the oil pan, wondering is that what might be creating this. Any help you could be is appreciated. I’m at a loss with this as to getting a dipstick to work.
I think it does take the longer dipstick tube the earlier set up was a two piece unit that had a lower tube inserted into the block and a shorter upper tube they changed to a one piece that was much longer
After watching this video I started thinking about weighing each rod and piston, balancing the crank, align bore the mains and cylinder bores, parallel deck the block, port match the intake and exhaust and then I thought about the factory pumping out engines all day and how some motors luckily get better parts as far as close to blueprint spec and the assembly etc explaining how some motors just have more power than their contemporaries that are stock as well. its a trip.
I'm an airplane mechanic by trade and would like to learn working on and building car engines, what kind of engine would be good for a beginner like me? I can rebuild and sign off on Lycoming, Continental airplane engines all day and twice on Sunday but watching most if not all of your videos looks like a lot of fun today. I'm pretty handy with angle iron and a welder so fabricating an engine run stand would be not a problem for me
Agreed its so simple with a sbc or even the bbc but cost a bit more but far cheaper than the others...not to knock'em but chevy is the place to start to learn!
Hey man I’m building a 360 for a 1979 F150. I’m not gonna make it too crazy just a good reliable engine. I’m looking at a 268H cam kit from Comp Cams is this cam a good choice for a truck that is going to be lifted and have big tires?
Seth Lester when i built my FE , I threw in a 390 crank & plain old cast pistons. The changes bumped compression up to almost 10:1 which all greatly improved torque.
BustedWalletGarage I want to change it over to a 390 but don’t really have the money right now I’m planning on it in the future tho. Just want something to play around with for right now. This is gonna be my first motor rebuild so don’t want to sink too much money into it.
Seth Lester I picked the crank and rods out of a motor that was sitting on the ground next to a f-150 and paid $100. Had to buy the pistons anyway because it bored 0.040 to get round cylinder walls. Bought those from J.C. Whitney. Added 30+ cubic inches and about 2 full points of compression for literally $150.
hey man I have a question, I tore a head off a freinds 1990 Chevy pickup with a 350... Its a throttle body injected engine....well I thought these engines were hydraulic lifter engines... my buddy says they are solid...I can't tell the difference, all I'm certain of is that they are flat tappet and not rollers cuz there's no tray in the valley that hold roller lifters in place.... my question is that if it is indeed solid lifter how do I set the valve lash? I'm pretty sure that I know how to set the lash/ preload on a hydraulic lifter say in a vortec engine by rotating the crank and cam until you get to the base of each can lobe and then tighten the rocker until I achieve no play in the pushrod (zero lash) and then an extra 180° for the preload... some info I've read calls for an extra 360° preload after zero lash.... can you help me by explaining how to tell if it's solid or hydraulic without pulling lifters (I've already got the head and intake and everything except the rocker cover back on) and if it is indeed solid how do I set the lash? my buddy wants to just run em down and fire it up and then tighten them down while it's running until they stop making noise.... I'm not keen on that... not only will that be a mess but couldn't it potentially bend a pushrod if they aren't tight enough to begin with and ya start the engine? I need help to do the job correctly lol not only that but he pulled the distributor before I could mark the base of it and the intake for a reference...lol. grrrr....
Myvintageiron7512 thank you for responding man, I know for certain your the man to ask about these things.... so can I turn the engine over until I'm at tdc compression for each cylinder then run the nuts down on both rockers until I'm at zero lash plus 180° for preload and be pretty close to good? thank you again for responding, I really appreciate it.
you are correct never adjust them with the engine running it will damage the cam if it were a solid cam it has to have lash and it will be noisy even when adjusted correctly I am just wondering why he thought it is a solid cam that really makes no sense solid cams are high performance parts that should only be used in higher RPM performance engines you would be hard pressed to fine one that would work with a TBI computer
Myvintageiron7512 I dunno man... someone has definitely been in that engine before though... inside is super clean, and the whole reason for pulling the head off was the number seven hole had zero compression... come to find out that intake valve looked different from the rest, not only was it cracked but it was kinda concave on the bottom as the rest were flat and he said that when him and his other buddy that did the valves they pulled it out and it was ever so slightly taller than the others as well.... head gaskets is as far as I've ever been into a SBC , I've never went as far as pulling lifters for anything so I really wouldn't know , all I know is the preload adjustment I've done in the past for hydraulic ones to be in the middle ,I'm not sure what exactly made him think they are solid other than the anomalies cluing us in to someone else being in it before us,but as it stands with my limited experience I figured best I could do was ask around and try to find some material on it, the job kinda turned into a debacle honestly, and the engine is in an old beat up pickup truck so I figure I'll just move finish it up the way I know as if they are hydraulic (which with the info you've just given me I'm sure they are) and if the valves his buddy put in in don't leak, it'll have to be alot better than a completely dead cylinder... and less than 150 in two of the remaining three on that bank. but now I'm second guessing myself.... since the engine has been sitting for almost a week now are the lifters completely collapsed? and if so how would that affect my preload adjustment? see man... it's done turned into a debacle...lol
I'm guessing but to get 400hp you would spend $3500 or little more. 500hp $8000 or more. Depends if your block needs work and other variables that quickly add up. That's if you do the install yourself.
Hello buddy...hello folks..i am from italy ,so please be patience with my english. I have a simple question...your answer will be a huge help for sure... I am going to rebuild my fe360. I ve just opened it n waiting for a comolete check...if the check will give a good response i would like to rebuild with new parts..(this is my first rebuilding experience) The quest is: could you be so kind to suggest to me a configuration for the fe 360? I want it to become an fe390!! I need to know what to buy...what brands.....i would like a good dailydriver truck with a lot of power... ( how much power could i obtain from it?) Thank you so much ...i really need help
That is not a simple question to answer the power output can very quite a bit depending on how you build it heads,cam, type of intake and exhaust, piston top configuration I would need to know all of this information to give an accurate HP est. Generally speaking the 360's were pretty weak, my best advise is to step up to a 390 rotating assembly and add a good performer intake, cam and set of long tube headers this will really wake it up the 390's were a pretty potent combination
Myvintageiron7512 you ve been so kind replying me. So, what i would like to do, is to spend some money..on this engine..i was thinking to replace the heads and all the rotating parts...what do u think? I always heard about edelbrock heads...i already have an edelbroke performer 390 intake ...so if you think is a good thing, i would need to know what heads, camshaft, roller cam, pistons,u know ..all the necessary!! If you need to know something about my block please let me know.. I just want to tell you i will understand if you cant answer in a detailed manner...i am asking u a lot of thing... I do love your vid.....i m watching them a lot of time in order to learn as much as i can.. Have a Great day!!!
That stuff is very hard to find I just had a customer go through 3 blocks looking for the same thing you are all three blocks are cracked GT heads are pretty tough as well I may have one head I'll take a look
Dude you added 62 plus 153. It wasnt 62 it was 58.making it 105.5.. you added 2 to the 60 mark instead of subtracting the 2 giving you 58. You read the wheel wrong my man.
there's no way most guys building engines do all this stuff. they don't have the tools or the know how. and most people are lazy and don't pay attention to detail. yet i don't see engines blowing up all the time either. it seems like 80% of these steps are doable with formal training and the rest no way because unless you have someone to guide you, a book or video isn't going to cut it. like I don't have a degree wheel and had never even heard of it. am i supposed to buy that? am I supposed to trust a machine shop? it gets super confusing. love the videos, but wow. i might as well build a space ship.
What's up Professor. You taught me how to clock motors at UTI. Now I'm a Supervisor at a feedstuff mill pm'ing Diesel equipment and train shuttle cars. You were my best teacher, respect. Keep doing ur thing, God bless. David Hansen
It was 8 years ago for me, learned a lot from the hot rod classes.
Hey man. Thanks for the video. I went to NTI awhile back and I miss all this. You are a good teacher. Thanks for the refresher course as I am building my own FE. 👍 you’re the man. Subscribed.
If you think this is difficult, just think about the guy that started with a couple blocks of raw material and figured out how to create this marvel to begin with. If I ponder it to long I may wind up having a meltdown. Thanks for the vid, I'll be learning more about this.
I was cheering when you talked about "bored out" and "having a cam"! I like it when they say "three quarter cam" or "full race cam" too... Thanks, man..
That's from the old days way back in the 1950's cam makers like Duntov had cams for race or street, if anyone under age 70 uses the terminology it is due to having their Grandpa or elder say it.
No I’m 65, And I remember clearly using that term, 3/4 race or full race, from back in the 60s
I always asked those 3/4 cam people where the other 1/4 is at?
Copy and pasted from
www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/cam-valvetrain/tech-quickie-what-is-a-34-race-camshaft/
The term 3/4 race originated in the ‘50s as the burgeoning hot-rod industry was modifying Ford Flatheads to drag race on airport runways and attempt top-speed runs on dry lake beds. The legendary Ed Winfield was one the early pioneers in grinding camshafts with more aggressive lobe profiles, and the cams were often labeled as full race for promotional purposes.
“And then some guys wanted a milder cam that could also be used on the street, so they called it a three-quarter race cam because it didn’t have as much duration and lift,” explains John MacKichan of the Speedway Motors Museum of American Speed in Lincoln, Nebraska.
Occasionally the term “¾ race cam” pops up in conversation, usually with veteran hot rodders or nostalgia groups. Sometimes you’ll see it in print ads and online product listings. From a purely technical viewpoint it means little in the way of explaining a camshaft’s performance potential. It’s just one of those glorious reminders of the early days when camshaft grinders had furious rivalries on the track and in the media. It’s also a significant milestone in a developing enterprise that snowballed into what we now recognize as the street-performance market.
Just want to say thank you so much for your videos. After more than a year and much money I have most of my parts in, still waiting for a custom cam then I can start building. I have read Barry's books and watched YT videos but yours have been the most help. As I build, my laptop will be with me and your videos will be on the screen.
It was great to have a quick refresher on this, it was 8 years ago that I went through Hot Rod at the Avendale UTI. Window shopping for cams for my FE just got easy again. Thanks!
"Well yeah that's cause you don't have 80% cylinder leakage anymore"
Gave me a chuckle. Also your stereotypical "guy who's excited about his new motor" voice is bang on.
I could watch stuff like this all day long. thank you
Excellent ,excellent job ! Just started tearing down my 390 today. Following.......
Thanks for all the great information!
I have an old 3/4 ton Dodge 4x4 with a roller cam LA 360. I would like to put a 4 inch stroker crank in it.
I have several friends that have been building race/hot rod engines for decades.
And as they help me spec out this engine on paper, I have to keep reminding them that setting up this engine is almost the polar opposite as to what they normally do. LOL.
I want torque over H.P.
I am more concerned with velocity than flow in the heads,
I don't need 10.5 :1 compression. Etc.
This engine normally operates between 1200 and 3600 rpm.
They are used to building 4500-6500+ rpm powerband engines.
We have a few laughs when they get into some "excited" conversations about cams, pistons, porting, etc. And I have to remind them this set up is opposite of what they normally build.
LOL.
👍😁
Your awesome !! You make it easy to follow what your putting down. Thanks for taking the time to teach us. 👍👍
Your welcome
well I gotta say, it is nice to find someone with a real understanding of cams / cam timing on tube... Been doing this for a living since the 70's and some of the engine videos I have seen? well I think you know... Another thing.. "when cam timing is checked" I have always done this right after installing the crank.. it is such a pain in the ass to deal with pistons, rings and I have even seen guys install heads and pushrods first.. ughh... Gotta guess you have a few motors under your belt.. :) Guys would do well to pay attention to this method..
Honestly bud! Your series of videos are utterly brilliant! You guid us through ALL the issues ever to come across in engine building! Your attention (being as understandable as possible) to detail is again brilliant. A true comprehensive attention to detail build series of videos for Ford builds!
I’m building my very first v8 a Ford 400 from a 72 LTD 2 door hard top!
I know a bit about the motor thanks to watching you and a couple of other guys! But your a dedicated Ford guy that has had the most information on the Ford family! I k ow the heads are 2V as is the intake! Yes I’m going to start with better pistons! But I’d love to get over 500hp from this motor!
To see you build one would be awesome! Hey! Beggars can’t be choosers! As I know what needs to be done!
Thank you again for your excellent help and information in these videos!!!
Such a great explanation of TDC! Thank you!
You are a genius with engines
You sir, are a fantastic, A1 teacher.
Hmm, Auto shop^__^ Great course or refresher! THNX!
I really appreciate your time I learned alot
So glad you're a detail "nut", I wish to bring my '62 Ford Galaxie 500 XL 352 to you...please; it will become a Mayberry Sheriff's patrol cruiser replica. I promised Don Knotts years ago, so, I have to see it through, I've waited long enough. A short leisurely drive from SoCal., right? Can you squeeze me in?
I enjoy your videos.
I have done a few cam timing on motorcycles, it is not the easiest job, but well worth it!
Love your vids👍👍👍
I can tell that you've had to deal with a lot of the same kind if people I have. 👍😉
Love ya vids.me brother in law been building engine's for over 50 years he taught me true tdc is a few degrees back from tdc.i ask him why he said because your timing the engine in overlap not ture tdc.thats how I do it everyone different.
Good video keep them coming 👍
Love the impersonation voices lol
🤣
Highly informative. Thanks!
Great show
Whoa whoa were's part 4?
I agree about the right cam for a truck. My 76 F250 has a very nice RV style cam. Instant throttle response. It's pretty much done at about 3500 rpm though. Just more noise and less gas.
ruclips.net/video/9x5-T2TJp1Y/видео.html
Part 4
Very cool!
great video
Great video.... TY
Firstimer. Great info. Just hope you know you have given the coulda woulda shoulda's enough to be really dangerous.
Great tutorial
Glad you think so!
I just like rattling off cam specs and watch the people get confused
You can buy cams now that have a nasty lopey idle to them, but are actually fairly tame grinds. I forget the name of them, but I think speedway motors sells them.
comp cams has one called the mutha thumper the down side is they are really poor performers they are basically show car cams
Yeah, It's like when you see a car with a 14/71 blower at a car show with a huge cam that hardly runs, and you know it isn't going to see any road miles. The trouble with fitting bigger cams is , you get to a certain limit where the cam does not generate enough vacuum to work the vacuum brake booster. A workaround is to fit a vacuum pump off of a light truck (stay away from the alternators with built in pumps , as they are usually 24 volt) I like the unit from the ford econoline 7.3 , they are a small self contained unit and are easy to make brackets for. Nobody ever said there was such thing as a perfect compromise.
Would like to see this engine run some day
@@vortecsmmdang6794 the video may exist. From the get-go of the FE engine Series this engine is for a customer who is named in the first few videos. He even has banter back and forth in the comment section. Go look him up
You could put a big choppy cam in a 4x4 with 35s but you'd NEED a high stall torque converter with a good trans cooler. Wouldn't be the best daily street driver or have good street manners (i.e. 3000rpm+ stall under load, so it always sound like you're trying to race lol.) Performance wise, it'd be exactly what they'd probably want. Just got to be aware of the pros and cons is all
Thank You, for this video. You mentioned compression Ratio, the majority of the time people I speak with are talking
about static compression, I have not talk to many people including other professional mechanics that know what
dynamic compression is and what it's importance is when building an engine. Is this something you would be willing
to discuss in a video? What should dynamic compression be for pump gas?
As a side note I recently installed 3 different Lunati cams in 3 different engines and all 3 cams were retarded 4
degrees from straight up and I adjusted them by changing the position of the crank gear which put them at +or- .5 to 1
degree of straight up.The cams were all VooDoo hyd. flat tappet, but the engines were 2 BB fords and a SB dodge.
How weird is that? lol. Thanks again, I really enjoy your video's.
Check out this vid from Pete's garage. Lot of theory but might help answer your questions. ruclips.net/video/FzKOx3lZM0Y/видео.html&list=PLadDQnvFIb-m6WB3XfMiETYdGMlnHJXy2&index=6
What bushing did you use to degree the fe camshaft. Really enjoyed your vieo.
I am also building a 390 and I have a question. So before the timing chain and gear is installed, there is a plate that is installed with 2 philliips head bolts. (the same ones you used the torch on to heat and remove them.) Well what do I touqre them to when intalling them, and do I use a phillpis bit attached to a tourqe wrench to tighten them? Thanks a bunch! Cheers from Kansas!
Hey @Myvintageiron7512 I have a f100 with a 360FE and it seems like I have oil coming out the exhaust. I have been told numerous times it could be the timing. It has been cammed and has a 4 barrel intake/carb including headers. What could be causing this? Motor runs great and isn't down on power or anything. Thanks in advance
Hey there!! Love your videos. I have a 69 f250 4x4 w/360. Can I put a top end kit(intake, carb, heads) without rebuilding the whole motor? Also what cam would you suggest for that set up? Or should I just leave the stock cam ?
Hey, I have a similar question. A 79 f250 4x4 w/ a 390 I want to build for performance towing, not performance racing. Want a Sniper set up instead of carb but do not know where to start with cam or stroker etc. I,m ignorant but not incapable of learning.
I once had a guy tell me he had a race cam in his CR250 Two Stroke dirt bike i was like OK lol! 🤔
🤦♂️
Thanks man
Hey man, I love your videos.i have vortec roller cam motor that I have broken in and driven about 250 miles. When I change the oil, can I use synthetic or do you recommend another oil.
it depends on your oil clearances but you should be able to
What you failed to ask the guy with the truck who wanted the cam was, what gear ratio is he running in his drive train. If the guy had a 2500 stall speed converter and 456 or 488 gears in his rear differentials then yes he could run a higher duration cam. Trucks with big tires have more than just one or two factors that need to be looked at. With big tires, gear ratio is as important as engine specs.
like I said if this guy is going to be operating above 3500 RPM most of the time, he could run more duration.
i came across your channel while researching how to rebuild my 390 fe motor out of my classic car i'm doing a restore on a 1966 ford thunderbird ... i want to rebuild it but give it a little more low end torque ( it s a HEAVY car) and sound nice .... NO im not hot rodding it lol what kind of cam would u suggest summit racing suggested the following 519 lift 224 duration 110 lobe set
compcam 92616 valve springs 421.99 whats your thoughts on it
The one thing I wanted to know is how you bushed the cam gear for the 1 °. Advance. And that part you kept out of the video. Every thing else I know. But thanks for the vid
Great vids, I know this is off topic BUT !! If someone touches your new main bearings on the critical surface, can you clean them with alcohol or something then oil them ? Or are they junk.
yeah I use rubbing Alcohol and a clean lint free rag they will be fine after that
How much for a 390 engine rebuilt by this guy
Are the 1976 105 fe blocks good blocks for racing applications
What is the best plugs to run in a 383 stroker
Cam timing (0, 2, 4 degrees BTDC) is set by the installer. You make it seem like cam timing set by the cam manufacturer. Manufacturers only give recommendation. You need to make a correction to the viewers. This “wrong cam right cam” based on cam timing makes no sense. Maybe you wanted to say duration and lift. That can be measured and compared to the specs.
Next time get a three key adjustable crank sprocket. You can make multiple adjustments to cam timing that way. 😉
Hey, Great info! Im rebuilding a 76' F100, RWD. I just bought a cam for the truck from Comp Cams "K33-600-5".. is this a decent choice for this build?
HOW did he do the fine tuning of the cam when it was out too much?
pull the chain and move either lower or upper sprocket one tooth over?
Once your timing chain stretches a bit the cam timing is off anyway!
Awesome videos. Please keep up the good work. When do you plan to get back into the LS project?
SOON
hey my friend iam building a 351w turbo stock bottom end with all new bearings and rings, what is the weak spot on this block, 93 engine out of a truck, can I go 500hp 500tq with out breaking??????????? what is a safe power limit. thank you so much love your work.
No the stock bottom end won't hold up to that kind of power you need forged pistons/Crank and rods also ARP main studs and a girdle
so the block will hold up, just not the internals.
If you are building for torque but still want some small lope at idle, can you just get a cam with small duration but a narrower LSA?
well yes and no, you can but remember tight lobe sep IE increased overlap moves the power band higher in the RPM range and diminishes torque
So what did you do to time the cam? did you move the timing chain clockwise or counterclockwise and how many teeth did you move it ?
i got a fe 390 in my galaxie bottom haft is stock im building street car what size cam do i need make it thump
Measured lobe lift was .300 thou, but advertised lift was .525 thou.... using 1:71 rocker arms? What if you used 1:6 arms? Wouldnt you get less lift than the advertised lift? So You would need to use the right rocker with the cam to get the advertised lift?
theravedaddy, just multiply the lobe lift by the rocker ratio and you'll get the valve lift. If they advertise the valve lift with using a 1.7:1 rocker and you are going to use 1.6, you'll have less than advertises lift. You have to use the same rocker ratio they used to get the advertised lift.
yes true but Comp cams always gives the valve lift based the factory RAR for whatever engine your building
Bummed that you didn't show finding true TDC. The methods I have using a dial gauge seem to be a PITA. Would have liked to see a pro do it.
I have a couple other videos showing that
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'll dig to see if I can find it. Thanks!
So my bracket racing truck weights 3300 lbs with a 3800 stall and 426 cu in fe engine and I'm leaving off the line on a foot brake with a c6 tranny. I run quarter mile and 1/8th mile so what cam would you recommend? I am using mildly ported truck heads with 2.09 intake valves and 1.70 exhaust valves. Cranking compression was measured at 195 psi if that helps.
Whatever cam specs were used in the 1967 AC Cobra 427 side oiler motor,.
My Uncle back in the 70's had a Cobra when I went to live with him from age 15-18, he was an actor and 2 of his buddies also had Cobras, My Uncle showed it to me the 1st time and I thought it was a big block Chevy in an MG, I was amazed to hear it was a Ford motor cause I went to the Winternationals in Pomona every year since I was a child, my buddies uncle was Bob Banfield inland empire newsman for ABC he gave us free tickets for the tower side and pit passes etc, anyways Fords were not really fast, the few that were were rare, but that Cobra actually had me kissing the ground when I got out of it!
As it idled in the driveway you could see puffs of air blowing dust around 10 feet away from the side pipes, the engine was a monster!
You should call a reputable Cam Manufacturers tech line and ask them!
can you help me what is a low compression test for a ford 351m is 115 good or bad I say bad but I don't know ford like I know chevy
anything over 100 is ok you should not have more than a 15% difference between cylinders
So what cam did you use in your 390?
I have a question for you vintageiron. It’s unrelated to this video but since it’s your recent one I’m hoping you’ll see it. I have an engine that was built out of a block that started life as a 4 bolt main 350 crate engine from Mexico from around the time of the last target master badge or early Goodwrench badge. The block has the provision for the dipstick on both sides, the oil pan installed currently deletes the passenger side dipstick entry (no bump out). So I’m forced to use the drivers side entry; here’s the issue, when I got a dipstick for the drivers side (labeled as “all small blocks 55-79”) the tube OD to press in measures .430”. The drilled hole in the block to accept the tube is .375”ish. Is there a oddball dipstick that was produced for this? I have seen something about a truck 2 piece dipstick that had a tube that inserted internally down to almost the bottom of the oil pan, wondering is that what might be creating this. Any help you could be is appreciated. I’m at a loss with this as to getting a dipstick to work.
I think it does take the longer dipstick tube the earlier set up was a two piece unit that had a lower tube inserted into the block and a shorter upper tube they changed to a one piece that was much longer
Myvintageiron7512 it was some home brewed piece that was broke off in the hole. Removed it and got the dipstick installed. Thank you!
Love that everything you do is done right. Awesome video's. Are we going to be able to hear this fe beast run ?
After watching this video I started thinking about weighing each rod and piston, balancing the crank, align bore the mains and cylinder bores, parallel deck the block, port match the intake and exhaust and then I thought about the factory pumping out engines all day and how some motors luckily get better parts as far as close to blueprint spec and the assembly etc explaining how some motors just have more power than their contemporaries that are stock as well. its a trip.
Word that comes to mind is lemon.
I'm an airplane mechanic by trade and would like to learn working on and building car engines, what kind of engine would be good for a beginner like me? I can rebuild and sign off on Lycoming, Continental airplane engines all day and twice on Sunday but watching most if not all of your videos looks like a lot of fun today. I'm pretty handy with angle iron and a welder so fabricating an engine run stand would be not a problem for me
get yourself a 350 small block Chevy they are cheap and easy
350 is cheapest and best bang for buck
Agreed its so simple with a sbc or even the bbc but cost a bit more but far cheaper than the others...not to knock'em but chevy is the place to start to learn!
Anyone else out there ever heard of installing the timing set on the exhaust stroke on Mopar? Doesn't make sense to me.
RARRRRR.
Hey man I’m building a 360 for a 1979 F150. I’m not gonna make it too crazy just a good reliable engine. I’m looking at a 268H cam kit from Comp Cams is this cam a good choice for a truck that is going to be lifted and have big tires?
Seth Lester when i built my FE , I threw in a 390 crank & plain old cast pistons. The changes bumped compression up to almost 10:1 which all greatly improved torque.
BustedWalletGarage I want to change it over to a 390 but don’t really have the money right now I’m planning on it in the future tho. Just want something to play around with for right now. This is gonna be my first motor rebuild so don’t want to sink too much money into it.
Seth Lester I picked the crank and rods out of a motor that was sitting on the ground next to a f-150 and paid $100. Had to buy the pistons anyway because it bored 0.040 to get round cylinder walls. Bought those from J.C. Whitney. Added 30+ cubic inches and about 2 full points of compression for literally $150.
Must have been a realy quick cam timing adjustment, only 1 minute passed on the time of your phone
good catch loll, it looked like it was right the first time...
indeed, he read 62 instead of 58 the first time
Do you have a way to contact you to see about rebuilding my ls-1?
How much would it cost to rebuild a 350 just a stock rebuild and maybe bored .30 over
1250
Any chance of ever building a Diesel engine on the channel
hey man I have a question, I tore a head off a freinds 1990 Chevy pickup with a 350... Its a throttle body injected engine....well I thought these engines were hydraulic lifter engines... my buddy says they are solid...I can't tell the difference, all I'm certain of is that they are flat tappet and not rollers cuz there's no tray in the valley that hold roller lifters in place.... my question is that if it is indeed solid lifter how do I set the valve lash? I'm pretty sure that I know how to set the lash/ preload on a hydraulic lifter say in a vortec engine by rotating the crank and cam until you get to the base of each can lobe and then tighten the rocker until I achieve no play in the pushrod (zero lash) and then an extra 180° for the preload... some info I've read calls for an extra 360° preload after zero lash.... can you help me by explaining how to tell if it's solid or hydraulic without pulling lifters (I've already got the head and intake and everything except the rocker cover back on) and if it is indeed solid how do I set the lash? my buddy wants to just run em down and fire it up and then tighten them down while it's running until they stop making noise.... I'm not keen on that... not only will that be a mess but couldn't it potentially bend a pushrod if they aren't tight enough to begin with and ya start the engine? I need help to do the job correctly lol not only that but he pulled the distributor before I could mark the base of it and the intake for a reference...lol. grrrr....
They are not solid unless someone installed a solid roller aftermarket cam the factory cams were all hyd
Myvintageiron7512 thank you for responding man, I know for certain your the man to ask about these things.... so can I turn the engine over until I'm at tdc compression for each cylinder then run the nuts down on both rockers until I'm at zero lash plus 180° for preload and be pretty close to good? thank you again for responding, I really appreciate it.
you are correct never adjust them with the engine running it will damage the cam if it were a solid cam it has to have lash and it will be noisy even when adjusted correctly I am just wondering why he thought it is a solid cam that really makes no sense solid cams are high performance parts that should only be used in higher RPM performance engines you would be hard pressed to fine one that would work with a TBI computer
Myvintageiron7512 I dunno man... someone has definitely been in that engine before though... inside is super clean, and the whole reason for pulling the head off was the number seven hole had zero compression... come to find out that intake valve looked different from the rest, not only was it cracked but it was kinda concave on the bottom as the rest were flat and he said that when him and his other buddy that did the valves they pulled it out and it was ever so slightly taller than the others as well.... head gaskets is as far as I've ever been into a SBC , I've never went as far as pulling lifters for anything so I really wouldn't know , all I know is the preload adjustment I've done in the past for hydraulic ones to be in the middle ,I'm not sure what exactly made him think they are solid other than the anomalies cluing us in to someone else being in it before us,but as it stands with my limited experience I figured best I could do was ask around and try to find some material on it, the job kinda turned into a debacle honestly, and the engine is in an old beat up pickup truck so I figure I'll just move finish it up the way I know as if they are hydraulic (which with the info you've just given me I'm sure they are) and if the valves his buddy put in in don't leak, it'll have to be alot better than a completely dead cylinder... and less than 150 in two of the remaining three on that bank. but now I'm second guessing myself.... since the engine has been sitting for almost a week now are the lifters completely collapsed? and if so how would that affect my preload adjustment? see man... it's done turned into a debacle...lol
not collapsed but depressurized is what I should've said
If you don't mind me saying, this guy looks and sounds like Jesse Ventura.
How much horsepower can you get out of a 390 not spending a lot of money on one end and spending a lot of money on the other end of that question
I'm guessing but to get 400hp you would spend $3500 or little more. 500hp $8000 or more. Depends if your block needs work and other variables that quickly add up. That's if you do the install yourself.
But you did it off camera on what you did to change it so I'm lost how to do all that
Are you still doing youtube videos?
Hello buddy...hello folks..i am from italy ,so please be patience with my english.
I have a simple question...your answer will be a huge help for sure...
I am going to rebuild my fe360.
I ve just opened it n waiting for a comolete check...if the check will give a good response i would like to rebuild with new parts..(this is my first rebuilding experience)
The quest is: could you be so kind to suggest to me a configuration for the fe 360? I want it to become an fe390!! I need to know what to buy...what brands.....i would like a good dailydriver truck with a lot of power... ( how much power could i obtain from it?) Thank you so much ...i really need help
That is not a simple question to answer the power output can very quite a bit depending on how you build it heads,cam, type of intake and exhaust, piston top configuration I would need to know all of this information to give an accurate HP est. Generally speaking the 360's were pretty weak, my best advise is to step up to a 390 rotating assembly and add a good performer intake, cam and set of long tube headers this will really wake it up the 390's were a pretty potent combination
Myvintageiron7512 you ve been so kind replying me.
So, what i would like to do, is to spend some money..on this engine..i was thinking to replace the heads and all the rotating parts...what do u think? I always heard about edelbrock heads...i already have an edelbroke performer 390 intake ...so if you think is a good thing, i would need to know what heads, camshaft, roller cam, pistons,u know ..all the necessary!! If you need to know something about my block please let me know..
I just want to tell you i will understand if you cant answer in a detailed manner...i am asking u a lot of thing...
I do love your vid.....i m watching them a lot of time in order to learn as much as i can..
Have a Great day!!!
Have you seen the two stroke v8 video?🤗, I like duration cams and surfing 🏄 deserts 🏜️🌪️🌵, these vacuum videos are awesome bro 🤙, just a fan🏆🏆🏆...
Yes low end torque builds here...🎑
I would like to email you some questions if at all possible. I'm sure you've given your email before, but I can remember.
I need 390 GT block crankshaft and heads date correct for 67 s code fastback.could not find your email.
That stuff is very hard to find I just had a customer go through 3 blocks looking for the same thing you are all three blocks are cracked GT heads are pretty tough as well I may have one head I'll take a look
Are you still doing you tube videos?
yes
Bored out with a 3/4 cam dropped down in it.
1st
I want to see a 434 sbc build
Dude you added 62 plus 153. It wasnt 62 it was 58.making it 105.5.. you added 2 to the 60 mark instead of subtracting the 2 giving you 58. You read the wheel wrong my man.
Camless motor? lololol.
there's no way most guys building engines do all this stuff. they don't have the tools or the know how. and most people are lazy and don't pay attention to detail. yet i don't see engines blowing up all the time either.
it seems like 80% of these steps are doable with formal training and the rest no way because unless you have someone to guide you, a book or video isn't going to cut it. like I don't have a degree wheel and had never even heard of it. am i supposed to buy that? am I supposed to trust a machine shop? it gets super confusing. love the videos, but wow. i might as well build a space ship.
Great video. Thanks for the effort