Appreciate you making the time to finish my motor. The reason the oil pan is in such good shape is because it is not a chrome aftermarket pan. I had the stock one chromed, back in the day when I thought shinny was better (chuckle). Look forward to the fire up. Waiting patiently.
I absolutely love your presentations. You are definitely a person with integrity and you have the knowledge of what works best and that is what you use. And when building a new engine you do need to build it with the correct equipment and parts that are meant for the application that the engine is going to be used for. I am a ford guy at heart however i lots of other brands also. And again thank you for your awesome presentations.
I can’t wait until you start building an LS. I know there is plenty of videos of people building them. They just don’t explain stuff and show stuff like you do. Your series on the 383 build is the best on you tube.
I wouldn't hold the pickup tube to torque the bolts. Good idea to put some thick cardboard or shop rags around the pump, and lightly jaw-it-up in your bench vice. Then tighten the pickup tube bolts.
One of the best things you can do when building one of these Fe Motors is to spend the extra to get a larger capacity oil pan in front sump style. That is if you are revving it for extended periods especially in racing the oil can be pulled to the back or to the sides and you can run out of oil.
I've watched many of your videos and they bring back memories. Although I haven't done much engine work in many years, I still have the interest. Maybe one day...Oh, just to mention, although my language can be colorful at times, I appreciate your absence of profanity. I watch my mouth around the kids and I'm not concerned when I have you on with them around. It became really clear when I had another guy on rebuilding a motor and although he seemed knowledgeable, I found his constant F bombs distracting to the point I turned him off. Thank you.
5:20 I have heard that you should always replace your original oil pump driveshaft with a better one, no matter what kind of engine you are building. If there is no better oil pump driveshaft, replacing it with an equal quality a new one is still a must because the old one probably has metal fatigue.
Ha Ha Ha That tab/collar/clip on top of the oil pump drive shaft is there so it doesn't pop up out of the oil pump when you pull the distributor!!!! Ask me how I know thats why I was laughing.
Always enjoy your videos wish I lived closer to you I’d have you rebuild my 97 5.7 Vortech which still runs great but just for the hell of it also one small idea maybe in some video he could have the client start back over after the engine is installed and we could see how it runs maybe get them to do a little burn out or take a test drive
thanks for all your help i got my fe tore down i found a date casting date c2ae but it has a 2t crankshaft in it with .030 piston don t know if 360 or 390 but have get crank
Your videos are some of the most thorough, informative and fun to watch on RUclips. I'm literally watching this with popcorn. Can't wait until you find your Jeep 4.0 replacement head so I can watch you finish that build, so I can finally rebuild my 4.2! in my wrangler ;) Very tough to get parts here in the Cayman Islands tho. So everything is Rockauto.com and Seaboard shipping and takes forever. If you have links to any recommended sites of good quality products and ship overseas would be great! Look forward to the next vid.
I have heard that Summit Racing and Jegs ship overseas. I live in the USA and they serve me well. However, I don't know what it is like to buy their parts outside the USA.
Glad you're going ok. There are worse things than being busy. I've been so busy with work lately that I haven't had time to wrench on ANYTHING :( which probably isn't going to change till about mid way through the summer.
I know it's a old video, but I wanted to share, that the star washer on the pump drive is very important. I left one off and having to re-pull the distributor to reclock it, lifted the pump drive out and it fell in the bottom of the pan. So I had to trace the no oil pressure problem down on a new built engine. And obviously pull the pan to reinstall the drive.
Thanks for all the great videos that you post. I'm putting together a 408W stroker engine, for my 84 Lincoln Town Car, and I have a question about thrust bearing clearance. I have a 78 351W block, and an Eagle cast steel crankshaft. When I tried setting the Crankshaft in, it was a very tight fit, with clearance on the the thrust bearing. 0 thrust clearance. Can I clearance the thrust bearing, with some fine sandpaper, or should I get a different set of main bearings?
I always liked working on the FE engines. They are boat anchors but they are tough as hell and run forever through a lot of abuse. The flat sealing surface for the oil pan is a nice feature of the deep skirt block, and they hardly ever leak. The rear main seal is a pain but it works OK in my limited experience. Those multi-piece gasket sets for SBF and SBC oil pans are a pain. Thanks for the nice detailed build videos...a trip down memory lane for me in some ways.
Anything man made can be defective. Take it from a 45 year partsman. I'm sure you looked inside the oil pump and found nothing out of place, and it spun freely. One of those things.
@@davidkeeton6716 Yes sir you are correct, the pump was fine. Got a new shaft, had it magnefluxed, installed it and it worked fine. That pump is still in the engine 30 years later.
Hey...Shawn here. Ive learned a lot from your videos.! Question....I have a 350 small block in a 55 chevy rebuilt In 2010 ...bone stock. Not driven a lot!. So recently I wanted to beef it up. So I got a set of Heads (what I thought were vortex heads but from your video I found out they were really TBI heads). I purchased a summit cam kit sum-k1106...488/488 lift Holly Carb. So...when its cold it hits a good lick...but as it warms up the cam lope goes away and almost sounds stock Can you tell me what is going on? Thank you so much!
Question...does the extra 40 cu in make a big difference for a pickup truck engine? Seems like an expensive way to go when a solid 390 with good heads and a well-specified cam would be a great motor with a pile of torque, but I’m interested in your thoughts. Maybe you needed a crank and pistons anyway so it was marginally more expensive that a straightforward 390 rebuild?
I had a 390 built for me and when I went to break it in, I had a problem with the timing was off a tooth on the distributor so I ran my 25mins with the headers very very hot! Not sure if that was were I went wrong but after that I took it out to try and seat the rings and it was smoking quite a bit and either my pcv was sucking raw oil or I have so much blow by that it is condensing in the intake because I have oil in the cylinders pooled up against the pistons! And my plugs are fouled and I've tried to remedy it but it sounds like my rings didn't seat! Could you spare some advise? Recommendations?
Whenever I've dealt with the timing cover on a FE in the past there are usually two bolts have a larger shank used for locating the timing cover correctly. I'm curious if maybe this is only on later models or something like that, or is it just better to use regular bolts and use the sleeve to center the cover?
I can't believe you didn't do or talk about rotating the assembly 360° each time you install another piston and rings, and torque it down. This is so if something is wrong, you will know which cylinder the problem is in.
Was wondering about the status of this build :) ... I've got a '67 F100 ... with it's original 352. Still running and driving. But would love to go through it and rebuild it. This 390 series has been educational. Wish I knew of a place around here that knew FE's inside and out. Thanks!
Considered repl with a 390. Or even a Coyote swap. Previous owner rebuilt it several years ago, upgrading the cam. Has a nice sound to it, runs pretty strong. But is burning oil now. - xnitro.com/67_f100.jpg
Yes That is in the next video you will need to hold the crankshaft by installing bolts into the back flange and using a pry bar the crank bolt tq is quite high it's 90 Ft Lbs
Can u please help me out I am a young wipper snapper and I changed my exhauste seal and I don't no the torque ratio please please help a going guy out I cleaned them really good put it all together and now I don't know how tight to make them 390 ford 1964 galaxy 500
unrelated to the stroker build but I was wondering if I was going to make my own exhaust where or how would I go about making or where would I be able to buy a flange and by flange I mean the part you bolt to the head. sorry if I used the wrong term, Thanks
Myvintageiron7512 thanks for the reply, what company's are those, and what if I would want to put a turbo on, I know some company's sell headers for that to, would I just buy something like that to save my time rather than make it from scatch
Thanks again, Buddy, for caring and sharing it is always appreciated. 🇺🇸👍
Appreciate you making the time to finish my motor. The reason the oil pan is in such good shape is because it is not a chrome aftermarket pan. I had the stock one chromed, back in the day when I thought shinny was better (chuckle). Look forward to the fire up. Waiting patiently.
interesting, that explains allot, I was thinking , wow someone actually made a decant chrome pan one of the first good ones I've seen
If I remember correctly, I did the dip stick tube as well.
390 stroker, so what crank did you use to stroke it and what to cid does it make it now???
What's your view on old Mopar engines?
I absolutely love your presentations. You are definitely a person with integrity and you have the knowledge of what works best and that is what you use. And when building a new engine you do need to build it with the correct equipment and parts that are meant for the application that the engine is going to be used for. I am a ford guy at heart however i lots of other brands also.
And again thank you for your awesome presentations.
You are so welcome
Great video series, THANKS! I'm getting ready to build the 390 for my old Mustang now and I like your detailed instructions.
Glad to help
I can’t wait until you start building an LS. I know there is plenty of videos of people building them. They just don’t explain stuff and show stuff like you do. Your series on the 383 build is the best on you tube.
I wouldn't hold the pickup tube to torque the bolts. Good idea to put some thick cardboard or shop rags around the pump, and lightly jaw-it-up in your bench vice. Then tighten the pickup tube bolts.
Glad to see you're back, and all in one piece. Looking forward to the next video.
Great job....Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all your vids..
Alright!
Always like seeing your videos being posted up!
I understand being busy. Thanks for making time to make these videos.
One of the best things you can do when building one of these Fe Motors is to spend the extra to get a larger capacity oil pan in front sump style. That is if you are revving it for extended periods especially in racing the oil can be pulled to the back or to the sides and you can run out of oil.
Thought you gave up on you tube video s glad your bk love your work
that 2ton stand is for big diesel engines for sure
Holy shit, HE LIVES! Lol good to see ya.
I've watched many of your videos and they bring back memories. Although I haven't done much engine work in many years, I still have the interest. Maybe one day...Oh, just to mention, although my language can be colorful at times, I appreciate your absence of profanity. I watch my mouth around the kids and I'm not concerned when I have you on with them around. It became really clear when I had another guy on rebuilding a motor and although he seemed knowledgeable, I found his constant F bombs distracting to the point I turned him off. Thank you.
5:20 I have heard that you should always replace your original oil pump driveshaft with a better one, no matter what kind of engine you are building. If there is no better oil pump driveshaft, replacing it with an equal quality a new one is still a must because the old one probably has metal fatigue.
Good to see a video. Looks great so far!
Been missing videos from you good to see you back
Good to see you sir!
Good to see you back. Your videos are great!
THX
Ha Ha Ha That tab/collar/clip on top of the oil pump drive shaft is there so it doesn't pop up out of the oil pump when you pull the distributor!!!! Ask me how I know thats why I was laughing.
Good show. Thanks.
I wait for a long time.! Great
It’s funny because by the angle and lighting, when I first started watching, it looked like the engine was sitting on a bed 🤣
This is gold, thankyou.
Always enjoy your videos wish I lived closer to you I’d have you rebuild my 97 5.7 Vortech which still runs great but just for the hell of it also one small idea maybe in some video he could have the client start back over after the engine is installed and we could see how it runs maybe get them to do a little burn out or take a test drive
Total Soy? 😃 It's spreading! I love these videos, subscribed forever. So informative, so many questions answered.
Hello sir great work
Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
great stuff...thanks
thanks for all your help i got my fe tore down i found a date casting date c2ae but it has a 2t crankshaft in it with .030 piston don t know if 360 or 390 but have get crank
Your videos are some of the most thorough, informative and fun to watch on RUclips. I'm literally watching this with popcorn. Can't wait until you find your Jeep 4.0 replacement head so I can watch you finish that build, so I can finally rebuild my 4.2! in my wrangler ;) Very tough to get parts here in the Cayman Islands tho. So everything is Rockauto.com and Seaboard shipping and takes forever. If you have links to any recommended sites of good quality products and ship overseas would be great! Look forward to the next vid.
Already got another jeep head just need to film and edit the rest of it thanks
I have heard that Summit Racing and Jegs ship overseas. I live in the USA and they serve me well. However, I don't know what it is like to buy their parts outside the USA.
Skyline Fever thanks skyline, I will definitely check them out!
Good vid, Thanks man
Glad you're going ok. There are worse things than being busy. I've been so busy with work lately that I haven't had time to wrench on ANYTHING :( which probably isn't going to change till about mid way through the summer.
I know it's a old video, but I wanted to share, that the star washer on the pump drive is very important. I left one off and having to re-pull the distributor to reclock it, lifted the pump drive out and it fell in the bottom of the pan. So I had to trace the no oil pressure problem down on a new built engine. And obviously pull the pan to reinstall the drive.
Thanks for all the great videos that you post.
I'm putting together a 408W stroker engine, for my 84 Lincoln Town Car, and I have a question about thrust bearing clearance.
I have a 78 351W block, and an Eagle cast steel crankshaft. When I tried setting the Crankshaft in, it was a very tight fit, with clearance on the the thrust bearing. 0 thrust clearance. Can I clearance the thrust bearing, with some fine sandpaper, or should I get a different set of main bearings?
I'm thrilled to see you back! Quality video has returned to RUclips!! What's cooking with the Pontiac 6?
Curious why the dampener key on the crank has to be replaced even if it looks perfectly fine and squared up?
I always liked working on the FE engines. They are boat anchors but they are tough as hell and run forever through a lot of abuse. The flat sealing surface for the oil pan is a nice feature of the deep skirt block, and they hardly ever leak. The rear main seal is a pain but it works OK in my limited experience. Those multi-piece gasket sets for SBF and SBC oil pans are a pain. Thanks for the nice detailed build videos...a trip down memory lane for me in some ways.
Got worried we lost u nice to see you back how's the 351m build coming along.
You might want to torque that balancer to spec so it don't become a ufo when you start it.
I came here to post that. Surely he did.
FYI, I had a Moroso hardened oil pump drive shaft snap on a 302. Brand new engine, one week old 😰
Anything man made can be defective. Take it from a 45 year partsman. I'm sure you looked inside the oil pump and found nothing out of place, and it spun freely. One of those things.
@@davidkeeton6716 Yes sir you are correct, the pump was fine. Got a new shaft, had it magnefluxed, installed it and it worked fine. That pump is still in the engine 30 years later.
Would love to see you build an idi diesel
That engine stand is a money maker. You can finally take on some Honda work. Tough to justify a stand just to contain VTEC.
Hey...Shawn here. Ive learned a lot from your videos.! Question....I have a 350 small block in a 55 chevy rebuilt In 2010 ...bone stock. Not driven a lot!. So recently I wanted to beef it up. So I got a set of Heads (what I thought were vortex heads but from your video I found out they were really TBI heads). I purchased a summit cam kit sum-k1106...488/488 lift Holly Carb. So...when its cold it hits a good lick...but as it warms up the cam lope goes away and almost sounds stock Can you tell me what is going on? Thank you so much!
Question...does the extra 40 cu in make a big difference for a pickup truck engine? Seems like an expensive way to go when a solid 390 with good heads and a well-specified cam would be a great motor with a pile of torque, but I’m interested in your thoughts. Maybe you needed a crank and pistons anyway so it was marginally more expensive that a straightforward 390 rebuild?
it doesn't leak oil. it sweats power
I had a 390 built for me and when I went to break it in, I had a problem with the timing was off a tooth on the distributor so I ran my 25mins with the headers very very hot! Not sure if that was were I went wrong but after that I took it out to try and seat the rings and it was smoking quite a bit and either my pcv was sucking raw oil or I have so much blow by that it is condensing in the intake because I have oil in the cylinders pooled up against the pistons! And my plugs are fouled and I've tried to remedy it but it sounds like my rings didn't seat! Could you spare some advise? Recommendations?
Whenever I've dealt with the timing cover on a FE in the past there are usually two bolts have a larger shank used for locating the timing cover correctly. I'm curious if maybe this is only on later models or something like that, or is it just better to use regular bolts and use the sleeve to center the cover?
Great video......i thought FE 390 was a long block?
liked your video, did you use any gasket sealer on the pan gasket or just put it on dry? thanks, keep them coming.
I use a thin layer of sealer both on the block and the pan be conservative here you do not want any sealer to get into the crankcase
I can't believe you didn't do or talk about rotating the assembly 360° each time you install another piston and rings, and torque it down. This is so if something is wrong, you will know which cylinder the problem is in.
Was wondering about the status of this build :) ... I've got a '67 F100 ... with it's original 352. Still running and driving. But would love to go through it and rebuild it. This 390 series has been educational. Wish I knew of a place around here that knew FE's inside and out. Thanks!
You can turn that 352 into a 390 bore it .050 over and install a 390 crank/rods/ and pistons and you have a standard 390
Considered repl with a 390. Or even a Coyote swap. Previous owner rebuilt it several years ago, upgrading the cam. Has a nice sound to it, runs pretty strong. But is burning oil now. - xnitro.com/67_f100.jpg
So what do you do when you don't have enough clearance how do you take care of that issue
These are great videos. Do you have a retail source for these parts, or do you just get everything through a wholesale supplier? Thanks
summit racing
looking good!!! what was that chevy motor in the background? ha ha
327
👍👍👍
DO you have a particular brand of gasket that you prefer to use?
That HD engine stand is bad-ASS!! It looks like it's all one piece. Does it break down?
Where can I find one of those oil shields? My engine didn't have one and I can't locate one anywhere.
Do you recommend the Melling M57HV high volume oil pump on a stock Ford 390 or the M57 standard volume pump? Thanks, and great videos!!
No HV for 390 they put too much oil up top
@@Myvintageiron7512 thank you!
Do you torque the crank . harmonic balancer bolt ?To what value ?
Thanks , :-)
Wyr
God bless
Yes That is in the next video you will need to hold the crankshaft by installing bolts into the back flange and using a pry bar the crank bolt tq is quite high it's 90 Ft Lbs
Can u please help me out I am a young wipper snapper and I changed my exhauste seal and I don't no the torque ratio please please help a going guy out I cleaned them really good put it all together and now I don't know how tight to make them 390 ford 1964 galaxy 500
Just wondering why you didn't use a windage tray on this motor since it's somewhat hot rodded with a stroker crank and aftermarket rods?
it won't see enough RPM to need one
unrelated to the stroker build but I was wondering if I was going to make my own exhaust where or how would I go about making or where would I be able to buy a flange and by flange I mean the part you bolt to the head. sorry if I used the wrong term, Thanks
there are company's that sell all the pieces to weld up your own headers
Myvintageiron7512 thanks for the reply, what company's are those, and what if I would want to put a turbo on, I know some company's sell headers for that to, would I just buy something like that to save my time rather than make it from scatch
My 1970 f250 with a 360 fe gets 7.5 miles per gallon. Any way to improve that?
Get rid of the holly carb,and put a auto lite on it. We do your distributor. Retime it, use some valve and combustion cleaner, like berrysman..
wherr are yall located and do yall sell heads and / or rework heads..we ve got a dozen old ranch suburbans that need new engines
Phoenix AZ I do ship em
I don't remember you ever putting oil in a SBC oil pump. Is there a difference between pumps?
I do I just don't think I talked about it I put oil in every pump
It won't hurt anything if you don't right? I just stabbed a 350 in my two door handyman. First time I ever built a motor. Rookie mistake?
What is the story with patreon? I would like to contribute!
I know lm a little late w/ this comment, but did I see you install the harm balancer backwards?
Nope, the pulley bolt pattern was facing out.
How was the holiday ? )) Hows the pontiac 6 ))
both are good
You said that was a short block I like long block better. They make more power. The longer the better.
ooookay
What you talking about?
I was joking were is your sense of humor.
Even better than a long block is a long block with a camshaft🤪
David Mason I’ve actually argued with people trying to explain a long block and a short block are the same length.
What do you think of king brg.?
I like king bearings I use them often
first like
What brand is the oil pump and pickup?
Melling
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you
Where are you located
Kerry, food for thought on the 302 , www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-1004-high-rpm-302-engine-build/
Does anyone know how to contact Craig Timmons myvintageiron fellow ?. Hello Craig 🙌🔔🔔🔔.
you can send me a message on facebook at myvintageiron7512
their no casting number on block just date code 1962
Where the hell you been pal? 😲
LOL.... I've been exactly where you see me in the video, I had a bunch of stuff to do that I didn't film
Myvintageiron7512 I literally was thinking of you the other day man I hope he isn't dead or something lol
Me too
facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1028684599092&set=a.1028684239083.2005552.1284658213&type=3&size=604%2C453. This is the car!
That's not the right oil pick up tub I hope you see it before you git the oil pan on.