You seem to have lots of experience as machinist but maybe not a whole lot of experience as Ford engine builder the reason I said that is because I have seen a lot of mechanics installing the intake just like you did and have to take it out when they tried to put the distributor in something I learned the hard way is when you set you intake you install your distributor at the same time just to make sure it will go in other than that you are doing a wonderful work teaching us keep the good work
I just want to take a moment and thank you so very much on uploading this engine build series. I'm building my first FE right now and your expertise and experience have been more helpful than you can imagine. So, thank you, -Ryan Patrick
Could you please do a video on Cam timming on something like a sbc when you put the bottom cam gear on the crank with multiple notches for advancing or retarding your cam because there isnt really any videos on it
Loving this series. I dropped my 428 off to be built recently and we're stalled waiting on parts - being the other side of the pond, getting hold of FE parts takes time and patience, making building an FE even more time consuming (imagine waiting weeks between figuring out pushrod length and the rods turning up..). So this is as close as I can get to a finished engine for now ;)
I just wanted to say that YOU make VERY GOOD videos & You are a great Guy with LOTS of knowledge - I have a 1974 Ford F 250 with a 390 in it - Keep up your great videos & yes you sure know what you are doing !! Take Care - John - B.C. Canada
well i dont know if youll see this or not but i want to thank you very ,very much ive been a carpenter my whole life and during that time ive always worked on my own cars but i was in an accident a fw years back that disabled me so i had to stop doing what i loved ,,,but thanx to you i gained the confidence to go further ,,that said,,,i rebuilt a 99 vortec 5.7 and it runs great ,,,now im addicted i would love to see a video on a 4.6 single overhead cam ford ..but thanx again seriously ...your awesome,,,,,,,,wes
We will be looking for the cause of a rough running eng and will be starting the eng after removing the trans. I had no idea it would bend a FP to not have the torque converter on. You've saved me a flex plate! Thanks again for a great video.
Thanks for taking the time to share your incredible depth of knowledge on these Ford FE's! Can I apply everything on your 390 rebuild to the 428 FE I have in my 1966 Ford Thunderbird Q-Code ?
I am getting ready to do a 390 build. I have a 360 that I will be converting over to a 390. What internals, crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings do you recommend and the best place to source these parts? I've watched all your FE videos multiple times and you do an outstanding job. This will be my first FE build after building several windsors. Plans for the engine is to be installed in a '67 Mustang with a manual transmission. Looking at 9.5:1 compression, hydraulic roller, Edelbrock performer RPM heads/intake, long tube headers. Target is 400+HP at the flywheel.
I am building my 360 FE out of my 71 4x4 and have found you videos most helpful, just one question, I noticed you did not put the valley tray back in before you put the inlet manifold on, I may have missed it but is there a reason for this?
What I really want to see is your procedure for cam break-in. I have seen almost all of your videos, don't remember seeing that. If you've already done it, can you do it again? I'd like to see your procedure, I've done it once with a 460, but I'd like your take on it.
Good video on this , never been fan of the FE's but I've seen a few in action always liked the Clevelands r the 429/460s even though ford ran em in racing and had wins with em how the 351m coming.
I am doing a rebuilt on my FE 390. For the first time in my life. When you check valve to piston clearrence, previously you have checked the rocker geometry and the correct length of the pushrods? This affects the result with the dough? Instead of solid lifter, I can use checking springs ? Thanks. I like your videos. You always explain it well.
Hello. I'm building a mild 390 FE. Question if I may: I checked the intake manifold fitment because I had the block and heads surfaced. I fully torqued the manifold with my new FelPro blue gaskets. Can I use these gaskets for final assembly or should I buy another set? Just wonder if tightening to 35 ft-lbs flattened out the gaskets preventing them from sealing properly. Your thoughts?
Hey boss man I’m currently building a 489 bbc stroker I ordered a kit and one of the piston had a little defect in it so got with the company and they sent me a piston I gave them the weight of the other pistons witch was 518g but they sent me one that is 521g my question is in your opinion will the 3g make a difference thanks in advance.
Ok appreciate the advice so what would be best to mill my block down or my heads? Or would both be better? If you don’t mind me asking this build I’m doing will be a street strip deal and I’m looking at rotating assemblies from summit as of now in your opinion would it be better to go that route or would buying piece by piece be better? Sorry so many questions just would like someone like you who has built these engines in there sleep lol.
Quick question. When you measured combustion changer volume, it looks like mistake may have been made. Didn't the area of the tube between the plexiglass and valve also get measured? So it may have read larger than actual CC volume.
Hi Great Videos Looking for some info,i am putting a set of edelbrock performer heads on my 390 gt and would like to know if i can use the factory rocker assembly.
the baffle can not be used with roller lifters Comp cams and Edelbrock both told me not to worry about it it's in there to keep hot oil off the intake but the Aluminum intake dissipates heat so well it's a non issue
my 63 t bird 390 has adjusters on the rockers other then that it looks the same but it takes it's own bell housing bolt pattern not inter changeable with other 390's or the auto trans to the bell housing i had to build one could not get one even after market i got the motor for 75 bucks with about 4000 miles on rebuilt then i found out y but it was well worth it tri power 400 hp stock spec. not sure all what they did to motor but it runs hard i have a few 390's but a ton of 360's does the 360 have the same heads as a 390 both truck motors the 390 is a 73 /78 pu motor and the 360 is 67/72 motor this what i seem to get a lot of i want to put the t bird motor in a 67/69 mustang just waiting to find a good deal on one or trade for it but it can't have rust or it can have just a little one thing i hate about chevy's hard to get rust free but have a few only need one camero a 69 for my collection and now i'm starting to collect mustangs don't have any old one's yet but just one i use to have a shelby but sold it to buy my place i miss that car same with my 66 gto and 22 inch lifted 4x4 step side chevy
enioy all your videos ..and hope you can help me quick. brand new 347 stroker. Trick flow heads, RPM air gap manifold. You know the manifold ports don't 100% match the heads. Manifold has no back water port and no ports between ports 1 and 2 , 3 ad 4 like the trickflow heads (I assume they are water ports?) . I used Gasket cinch and Mr Gastket (that's what they recommend now and not felt pro) and black RTV around front water port and front and rear seal. Should I have also done so around the other water ports even though they are not used? The urgency is the engine goes in Saturday and if I have to redo it, have to do it today, Friday...Your help appreciated. If you think its good with the gasket cinch and the one port RTV, let me know..and thanks
i notice the intake gasket is over size at the bottom of the head intake port , ones the intake is on there will be a gap at the bottom of the port and the intake runner , is this not bad for flow and course the air to tumble and create turbulence? or for this Engine application not a big deal? :)
Hey boss have another question for you if you don’t mind me asking but just received my heads back from the shop and I have the 049 heads. I had the 2.19 and 1.88 installed and my question is if are the exhaust valves are they supposed to stick up a little higher than the intake valve? Bc mine do. And what’s a gd way to know if they truly did a 3 angle valve job?
Any risk of turning the motor after lubing and installing new flat tappet cam - will the assembly grease get wiped off lobes? Wanted to check how motor turns over with rocker arms installed but afraid of wiping grease off cam lobes. Your thoughts?
Wow, look at the huge amount of gasket space on the intake gaskets, is that how much difference there is between all the different port sizes, low, mid, high rise? The intake port openings look way smaller than the head ports.
That's not what I was meaning, just noticing how much bigger the ports on the high rise heads must be, did you say those heads you used were mid rise? and I was surprised at how much smaller the intake manifold ports looked compared to the head ports, especially being an Edelbrock. I have a a 67" 390 I'm going to build for my 69 High Boy but haven't disassembled yet.
you can get a manifold with the larger ports but you loose some low end TQ the smaller runner duel plane intake works much better on he street in a truck the bigger intake tends to make the engine sluggish on the low end
Have you done a video on setting the proper lash on hydraulic lifters in an engine where the lifters were taken out and put back in (wet vs. new dry), if not could you there is a lot of conflicting procedures out there and I believe you know what your talking about and would trust your opinion. Thanks for the videos, I always watch when you put them out and I either learn something new or remember something I forgot.
would the fe engines cool properly if both head gaskets were blocked at the rear, or if just one was? Reason I ask is that I just put on a head gasket onto a 1968 360. I did install it the way myvintageiron suggested with the front blocked. But here is where it gets strange the head gasket I bought had the word front on the open side and the back side was blocked. Also the blocked side had a metal area that would have fitted into the block side if installed correctly (which would have meant blocking one side on the front and one side on the back, both sides would have then been metal side into block). It was an enginetech head gasket in a complete gasket set part number F390A from rockauto.
@@Myvintageiron7512 awesome. Thanks, I wish I took a picture of it before i bolted head down. But I did do it the way you mentioned. It just makes sense when you look at the head passages and intake/thermostat housing location.
How does someone send you an email ? My wife just bought me a 1970 F250 with a 390 and I would love to do a budget refresh on it. I also saw you said reach out if you are looking for heads. Curious how much it would be for your to freshen up a set of heads and sell them. Thanks for the great videos and technical details.
I like your builds but FEs are a strange animal and require a few tricks here and there. What I didn't see you do is to insert the distributor and then start the bolts. It's very common to have the distributor hole in the intake off enough that you either can't insert it, rotate it or it leaks if you don't use it to assure alignment.
Quick question, the customer already ok'd the expense of a stroker crank so why not go for the 4.250 crank? From what I've seen they are the same price. Not being critical just wondering since I'll be building one of these also. I was planning on the 4.250 but is there a reason I shouldn't? It will be for a 65 f250. I guess it wasn't a quick question.
74cc head displacement, 30cc piston dish displacement, I'm guessing 2cc head gasket displacement witch is 106cc but no cylinder dimensions got to go back threw older videos just because I'm curious🤔😆
4.080 bore 4.125 stroke the piston is actually 20 cc I made a mistake there the beret was not filled to the top I re checked off camera because it did not seem right head gasket is .040 compressed deck Clearance is .006 my math says around 9.5 to 1
Great video. I did the same thing with my performer RPM intake with the black paint. I couldn't believe you didn't put roller lifters on this build but I guess there wasn't a need for it. Did you opt for the aftermarket hardened rocker shaft?
These engines run forever in stock form. There really wouldn't be much need for a hardened rocker shaft unless the customer just absolutely requested it.
Because a port and polish job is around $800.00 and the customer did not pay for that , more importantly Porting and polishing these factory heads is a complete waste of time, by the time you port and polish these heads you will have more money into them then just buying aftermarket Aluminum heads that will out flow your ported iron heads by a mile
I thought that was why it was left out! Just wanted to make sure, since the oil pick up tube was accidentally replaced with the short version. Thank you for clearing this up for me, I always thought that the valley pan was used no matter what, but I was mistaken. Like these vids, you do a jam up job. Keep them coming, especially the 302 - 429 fords, LOL.
I had a problem with a Crower Roller Cam on an early 352 they hit the pistons , hard .Someone sold me a car that didn't run because of bent valves and push rods .
Hey boss great videos have a question I’m building a stroker 489 bbc and I’m going with the 049 heads. I have them in the machine shop now getting bigger valves installed my question to you is how much can I have milled down without getting to crazy with it? I’m planning on using 18cc dome pistons and plan on trying to stick with 9.5 to 10 compression. Thanks in advance
that sounds about right you don't need to mill a ton off the heads with those pistons I am actually doing that exact same build right now however I am not doing a video series on it those pistons should put you at around 10 to 1
Another good video. I wonder if you could tell me what cam, crank and pistons you installed in this engine. I would like to build my 390 as close as yours since mine is going in an F250. I'm really not confident in choosing these myself. Forgive me if you have given this info in another video. Thanks.
I can do one better I will attach the Article that gave me the idea for this build complete with dyno resultswww.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/1410-how-to-build-a-390fe-stroker-500-pound-feet/
I wasn't thinking of them for power, I like them because they keep me from needing to add zinc to the oil and their overall durability - like any modern V8 made in the last two or three decades.
hello my name is Zane. I've been watching your channel a long time and really look up to your knowledge and opinions so I would like to ask you a question. I can't find your email so I'm going to ask you here. I am building a 98 ls1 (my first engine build). I want to build it to take a 100 shot of nitrous from time to time. what kind of piston rings do I need as far as materials?
No mention of lifter preload (what value do you use?)...didn't show pushrod checking tool being used to find pushrod length. Was looking forward to that. Color me disappointed.
with the factory non adjustable rocker shaft all you really need to do is find a push rod that puts you in the middle of your lifter plunger travel the way I did it was I measured the difference between the flat tappet lifter and the roller lifter than subtracted that much from the push rod length to a set of push rods it worked perfectly the push rods I bought were perfect right in the center of the hyd lifter plunger travel
@@Myvintageiron7512 A unique case. And works as long as there's no change in installed valve height. Seems amazing that the height didn't change after the valve grinding and new seats. I mention all this since I'm battling the valve train of an old Buick odd-fire V6 (valve job w/new hardened exhaust seats). At this point, I want to shoot the guy who thought of non-adjustable rocker shafts. Needs new pushrods, so I bought a length checker and have to settle on a lifter preload value for the new Sealed Power hyd flat-tappet lifters. Looking to go for 0.040" since everyone says 0.020" to 0.060", so I figured to aim for the middle. Sound plausible? Love the vids, BTW. Just would like to see more nitty-gritty tech details.
@@warrenzevonsangryghost6055 wait ! why are the valve stems at a different height? who did the valve job? any machine shop worth their salt knows that you half to measure the valve stem heights before you remove the valves and then re measure after the valve job so you can grind the stem tips to restore the height to original specs if you do a valve job and don't do this it turns into a nightmare I would say whoever did those heads should never be trusted to any type of machine work if you want to shoot someone it should be the guy that did the half ass job on those heads Good Luck
@@Myvintageiron7512 The shop here in KC has been around for many decades, and known for rebuilding and repairing (sometimes after horrific damage) some of the most expensive heads ever made (megabuck Brodix, Lamborghini, Ferrari, and of course, old fashioned plain-Jane Ford and Chevy V8's and such). Figured my lowly odd-fire Buick V6 heads would be no big deal for these guys. "measure the valve stem heights before you remove the valves and then re-measure after the valve job so you can grind the stem tips to restore the height to original specs " Yeah, well, it didn't happen that way. Heads were cleaned, milled a few thou, and hardened exhaust seats installed, as well as new Sealed Power springs, positive seals on the intake, and Viton umbrella seals on the exhaust. Picked the heads up, and before I installed, I noticed that the exhaust valves were visibly shorter than the intakes. Did some measuring (the best I could with only calipers) and the variance from tallest intake to shortest exhaust was around 0.040", and while certainly the new exhaust seats played a role in the short exhaust valves, I was still pissed considering what I spent at their shop. Does not appear that much (if any) attention was paid to the valve height they had when the heads were received, and no one could have even eyeballed the stem heights as the difference from exhaust to intake was obvious. I called the shop, and the owner was very apologetic and told me to bring the heads back ASAP, which I did. We spoke on the phone a few days later, and it seems that I was not likely the first to do a valve job on the old Buick, and in order to straighten out the mess, new exhaust valves were needed, which was done (at an additional parts cost to me, but no additional labor). As far as the screw-up, I was told that the spring pad at several locations were recessed from where they were supposed to be (casting error? can't check as my spring compressor seems to have wandered off), and of course the new seats played a role as well. Seemed a lame excuse, but I saw nothing to gain by pushing the issue. So I'm conflicted about the shop. Real nice bunch of guys, and I'm sure they know their chit, but I kinda feel like their approach was "here's a pair of old crusty Buick heads...let's get 'em done and get 'em out, we have more important things to work on that'll make us lots more money". Maybe that's unfair to 'em (they were certainly plenty contrite when I brought the heads back in anyway), but that's how I end up seeing the deal. Anyway, after too many $$ spent, the valve stem heights look good now, but I have little idea where the valve heights are as compared to where they were when I dropped the heads off. I indeed do need new pushrods, and have a length checker to tackle the situation. Once I get the heads on I''ll know more. Figuring on about 0.040" preload for the new Sealed Power lifters, as everything I read says 0.020" to 0.060" is the target, so I thought to aim for the middle. Sound plausible? (BTW, read all of this, you're not only an engine guru, but a saint as well. Rock on my friend!)
Like your video! I put Edelbrock heads on a 68 428 Ford Motor FE. Edelbrock head number is 60069. I then installed the 60069 stud kit assembly for rocker arm assembly. When I put the oil baffles pan under the rocker arm assembly it hits Edelbrock's head and won't lay flat. Can I leave the oil baffle pan out or should I try and modify it to fit the Edelbrock heads. Your video 390 Stroker Build Part 8 says it is important to have it in the motor. Is that because you used stock heads. Thank you, Brian Penney.
I notice that when ordering head gaskets for my 390 FE, they specify Bore measurement. 4.08 or 4.19 or 4.25 and 4.4. Which is the correct one to use and why would there be all these options. When I measure the inside of the cylinder bore, mine is 4.08. so which gasket bore can I use.
do not use silicone!!! use weather strip adhesive, Permatex aviation sealer, permatex #2 ! also torque in 3 or more steps flowing torque pattern do not torque to torque specs in one step! all so I prefer to use the china wall gaskets, but a lot do not do to the fact that the old time non silicone sealers I mentioned above are not as popular. the old sealers are like glue and set in 5-15min sum do not harden but set up ,others harden to a point keeps the gaskets from moving makes it idiot proof!! also on ford small blocks 302w-351w you need to use the intake gasket for the year head you are using as the ports sizing changed a LOT over time. all so on the 302w-351w use 4 studs 2 on each head second bolt hole from each end to line up the intake gaskets and intake. then with the intake on put the bolts on hand tight in the renaming bolt holes then remove the studs replace with bolts and torque to spec. all so use stranded no PERFORMANCE intake gaskets from felpro as thy have a steel core with raised bosses around ports for hi presser seal. PERFORMANCE gaskets from felpro do not have a stamped steel core and use a silicone boss around the ports instead of stamped steel. the standard blue ones are a lot cheaper as well!! all so NEVER reuse intake bolts as thy stretch. ues bolts from industrial suppler grade 8 with USS grade 8 washers!! bolts from industrial supplier or well stocked hardware stores are cheaper and better than a lot of OE or performance shops just bring your old bolts for sizing. have learned the hard way with ford intakes so those are my tips as well as phrasing Fords tips. well good luck with the fe thy are a STRONG engine. with little work a 390 can destroy a built c6!!!
Oh my everyone's going to want to be The Machinist now till they find out how many hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of equipment you have there and the countless hours to meticulously put something together properly hey I'm just shade tree even that takes countless hours and hundreds of dollars
I’ve watched the whole series and am on pins and needles to see it fired up!
You seem to have lots of experience as machinist but maybe not a whole lot of experience as Ford engine builder the reason I said that is because I have seen a lot of mechanics installing the intake just like you did and have to take it out when they tried to put the distributor in something I learned the hard way is when you set you intake you install your distributor at the same time just to make sure it will go in other than that you are doing a wonderful work teaching us keep the good work
I just want to take a moment and thank you so very much on uploading this engine build series. I'm building my first FE right now and your expertise and experience have been more helpful than you can imagine. So, thank you, -Ryan Patrick
Best coverage I have ever seen of the detail work necessary to make a proper job of this.
Like I said I am binge watching extremely excellent detailed presentation! !
Welcome aboard!
Sounds like your smoke detector needs a new battery.
Thanks for another great video.
Nothing get's past you
Could you please do a video on Cam timming on something like a sbc when you put the bottom cam gear on the crank with multiple notches for advancing or retarding your cam because there isnt really any videos on it
I checked my whole house, I thought it was mine. -_-
@@Thewarhorse47 lmao
“I know why da ceiling bird chirp”
Thats a nice intake. I just got one of these engines and when I went to pick up the stock 2bbl iron intake I was like man.....prolly gave me a hernia!
Loving this series. I dropped my 428 off to be built recently and we're stalled waiting on parts - being the other side of the pond, getting hold of FE parts takes time and patience, making building an FE even more time consuming (imagine waiting weeks between figuring out pushrod length and the rods turning up..). So this is as close as I can get to a finished engine for now ;)
Thanks for taking the time with these videos! Much appreciated!
I usually put the distributor in the hole before tightening the manifold. It can cause problems if it's not lined up correctly.
Super awesome build. Great job.
Thanks for another great video i appreciate your time, i learn alot !!👍👍👍
I just wanted to say that YOU make VERY GOOD videos & You are a great Guy with LOTS of knowledge - I have a 1974 Ford F 250 with a 390 in it - Keep up your great videos & yes you sure know what you are doing !! Take Care - John - B.C. Canada
Thanks looking forward to it running
Noticed you left the valley pan out, is that cause you're using an Edelbrock intake and there is no exhaust crossover?
well i dont know if youll see this or not but i want to thank you very ,very much ive been a carpenter my whole life and during that time ive always worked on my own cars but i was in an accident a fw years back that disabled me so i had to stop doing what i loved ,,,but thanx to you i gained the confidence to go further ,,that said,,,i rebuilt a 99 vortec 5.7 and it runs great ,,,now im addicted i would love to see a video on a 4.6 single overhead cam ford ..but thanx again seriously ...your awesome,,,,,,,,wes
Thanks
I thought that smoke detector beep was in my house; so did my dog!😂
that would shit me to tears, needs hitting with a hammer
Same here. It's driving me crazy
Dass da hallway cricket
We will be looking for the cause of a rough running eng and will be starting the eng after removing the trans. I had no idea it would bend a FP to not have the torque converter on. You've saved me a flex plate!
Thanks again for a great video.
Looks good !
One rocker bolt is different. It allows oil to flow upwardly to the rocker arm assemblies. This is important and not mentioned.
Love your channel! Ever build up a Ford 406? Would love an overview on these in so far as power potential etc
I binge-watched this FE rebuild this weekend. Please tell me there's a video of it running??? Left me with blue balls, man!!!
It's coming we haven't actually started it yet
Great tip about the head gasket orientation.
Thanks for taking the time to share your incredible depth of knowledge on these Ford FE's! Can I apply everything on your 390 rebuild to the 428 FE I have in my 1966 Ford Thunderbird Q-Code ?
yes most of it
Dude you make it look so easy....
I'm about to work on my 68 f250 390 motor hope everything goes well..
Do you ever put RTV on the head gasket in front where it blocks the water channel? (Like you do with the intake gasket?)..these are great videos.
where is part 9 video and dino test i would like to see and hear this engine running :)
I am getting ready to do a 390 build. I have a 360 that I will be converting over to a 390. What internals, crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings do you recommend and the best place to source these parts? I've watched all your FE videos multiple times and you do an outstanding job. This will be my first FE build after building several windsors. Plans for the engine is to be installed in a '67 Mustang with a manual transmission. Looking at 9.5:1 compression, hydraulic roller, Edelbrock performer RPM heads/intake, long tube headers. Target is 400+HP at the flywheel.
Right on
I am building my 360 FE out of my 71 4x4 and have found you videos most helpful, just one question, I noticed you did not put the valley tray back in before you put the inlet manifold on, I may have missed it but is there a reason for this?
What I really want to see is your procedure for cam break-in. I have seen almost all of your videos, don't remember seeing that. If you've already done it, can you do it again? I'd like to see your procedure, I've done it once with a 460, but I'd like your take on it.
This engine has a roller cam and does not require any cam break in but I will try and do that with my next flat tappet
Heh, duhh. Ok, thanks though. Great series of videos!
There is no cam break in on this engine it is a roller cam but I will probably do a video on that the next time I do a Flat tappet engine
ruclips.net/video/uoB8t6__210/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/lMYqdU_2GnE/видео.html
Good video on this , never been fan of the FE's but I've seen a few in action always liked the Clevelands r the 429/460s even though ford ran em in racing and had wins with em how the 351m coming.
I am doing a rebuilt on my FE 390.
For the first time in my life. When you check valve to piston clearrence, previously you have checked the rocker geometry and the correct length of the pushrods? This affects the result with the dough? Instead of solid lifter, I can use checking springs ? Thanks. I like your videos. You always explain it well.
thanks.....
Hello. I'm building a mild 390 FE. Question if I may: I checked the intake manifold fitment because I had the block and heads surfaced. I fully torqued the manifold with my new FelPro blue gaskets. Can I use these gaskets for final assembly or should I buy another set? Just wonder if tightening to 35 ft-lbs flattened out the gaskets preventing them from sealing properly. Your thoughts?
i didn't see you put the windage tray back in the lifter valley that you originally took out during the tear down.
Hey boss man I’m currently building a 489 bbc stroker I ordered a kit and one of the piston had a little defect in it so got with the company and they sent me a piston I gave them the weight of the other pistons witch was 518g but they sent me one that is 521g my question is in your opinion will the 3g make a difference thanks in advance.
Ok appreciate the advice so what would be best to mill my block down or my heads? Or would both be better? If you don’t mind me asking this build I’m doing will be a street strip deal and I’m looking at rotating assemblies from summit as of now in your opinion would it be better to go that route or would buying piece by piece be better? Sorry so many questions just would like someone like you who has built these engines in there sleep lol.
I would buy the Scat rotating assembly and have it balanced at a local machine shop buying it separately is more expensive
Quick question. When you measured combustion changer volume, it looks like mistake may have been made. Didn't the area of the tube between the plexiglass and valve also get measured? So it may have read larger than actual CC volume.
nope all the liquid was in the chamber
Hi Great Videos
Looking for some info,i am putting a set of edelbrock performer heads on my 390 gt and would like to know if i can use the factory rocker assembly.
That is a question for Edelbrock
No valley pan under the intake ?
Is that the thing that makes the car move?
Marvin I noticed no sheet metal baffel used under the intake manifold mine has one ! .
a
the baffle can not be used with roller lifters Comp cams and Edelbrock both told me not to worry about it it's in there to keep hot oil off the intake but the Aluminum intake dissipates heat so well it's a non issue
my 63 t bird 390 has adjusters on the rockers other then that it looks the same but it takes it's own bell housing bolt pattern not inter changeable with other 390's or the auto trans to the bell housing i had to build one could not get one even after market i got the motor for 75 bucks with about 4000 miles on rebuilt then i found out y but it was well worth it tri power 400 hp stock spec. not sure all what they did to motor but it runs hard i have a few 390's but a ton of 360's does the 360 have the same heads as a 390 both truck motors the 390 is a 73 /78 pu motor and the 360 is 67/72 motor this what i seem to get a lot of i want to put the t bird motor in a 67/69 mustang just waiting to find a good deal on one or trade for it but it can't have rust or it can have just a little one thing i hate about chevy's hard to get rust free but have a few only need one camero a 69 for my collection and now i'm starting to collect mustangs don't have any old one's yet but just one i use to have a shelby but sold it to buy my place i miss that car same with my 66 gto and 22 inch lifted 4x4 step side chevy
enioy all your videos ..and hope you can help me quick. brand new 347 stroker. Trick flow heads, RPM air gap manifold. You know the manifold ports don't 100% match the heads. Manifold has no back water port and no ports between ports 1 and 2 , 3 ad 4 like the trickflow heads (I assume they are water ports?) . I used Gasket cinch and Mr Gastket (that's what they recommend now and not felt pro) and black RTV around front water port and front and rear seal. Should I have also done so around the other water ports even though they are not used? The urgency is the engine goes in Saturday and if I have to redo it, have to do it today, Friday...Your help appreciated. If you think its good with the gasket cinch and the one port RTV, let me know..and thanks
I would RTV all water ports
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you ! Handled !
i notice the intake gasket is over size at the bottom of the head intake port , ones the intake is on there will be a gap at the bottom of the port and the intake runner , is this not bad for flow and course the air to tumble and create turbulence? or for this Engine application not a big deal? :)
this has been tested every way possible over the years on many dyno's the results show no difference when changing gaskets
Hey boss have another question for you if you don’t mind me asking but just received my heads back from the shop and I have the 049 heads. I had the 2.19 and 1.88 installed and my question is if are the exhaust valves are they supposed to stick up a little higher than the intake valve? Bc mine do. And what’s a gd way to know if they truly did a 3 angle valve job?
Yes they do protrude higher than the intakes
Any risk of turning the motor after lubing and installing new flat tappet cam - will the assembly grease get wiped off lobes? Wanted to check how motor turns over with rocker arms installed but afraid of wiping grease off cam lobes. Your thoughts?
it's fine you can rotate it
Wow, look at the huge amount of gasket space on the intake gaskets, is that how much difference there is between all
the different port sizes, low, mid, high rise? The intake port openings look way smaller than the head ports.
there is no performance change with a smaller gasket so we don't bother buying it any more Fel Pro has one of the best intake gaskets so we use em
That's not what I was meaning, just noticing how much bigger the ports on the high rise heads must be,
did you say those heads you used were mid rise? and I was surprised at how much smaller the intake
manifold ports looked compared to the head ports, especially being an Edelbrock. I have a a 67"
390 I'm going to build for my 69 High Boy but haven't disassembled yet.
you can get a manifold with the larger ports but you loose some low end TQ the smaller runner duel plane intake works much better on he street in a truck the bigger intake tends to make the engine sluggish on the low end
Have you done a video on setting the proper lash on hydraulic lifters in an engine where the lifters were taken out
and put back in (wet vs. new dry), if not could you there is a lot of conflicting procedures out there and I believe
you know what your talking about and would trust your opinion.
Thanks for the videos, I always watch when you put them out and I either learn something new or remember something I forgot.
would the fe engines cool properly if both head gaskets were blocked at the rear, or if just one was? Reason I ask is that I just put on a head gasket onto a 1968 360. I did install it the way myvintageiron suggested with the front blocked. But here is where it gets strange the head gasket I bought had the word front on the open side and the back side was blocked. Also the blocked side had a metal area that would have fitted into the block side if installed correctly (which would have meant blocking one side on the front and one side on the back, both sides would have then been metal side into block). It was an enginetech head gasket in a complete gasket set part number F390A from rockauto.
the open side of the gasket goes to the back always always no exceptions
@@Myvintageiron7512 awesome. Thanks, I wish I took a picture of it before i bolted head down. But I did do it the way you mentioned. It just makes sense when you look at the head passages and intake/thermostat housing location.
What is the part number for the arp oil drive?
How does someone send you an email ? My wife just bought me a 1970 F250 with a 390 and I would love to do a budget refresh on it. I also saw you said reach out if you are looking for heads. Curious how much it would be for your to freshen up a set of heads and sell them.
Thanks for the great videos and technical details.
No valley pan or whatever that plate is that sits underneath in the valley of the intake?
The valley pan does not fit with roller lifters the aluminum intake will dissipate the heat better so not needed
it does not fit with roller lifters you don't need it with aluminum intake anyway
I like your builds but FEs are a strange animal and require a few tricks here and there. What I didn't see you do is to insert the distributor and then start the bolts. It's very common to have the distributor hole in the intake off enough that you either can't insert it, rotate it or it leaks if you don't use it to assure alignment.
I have seen photos of using putty to measure valve to piston clearance, but never a video. Thanks.
Quick question, the customer already ok'd the expense of a stroker crank so why not go for the 4.250 crank? From what I've seen they are the same price. Not being critical just wondering since I'll be building one of these also. I was planning on the 4.250 but is there a reason I shouldn't? It will be for a 65 f250. I guess it wasn't a quick question.
I do not recommend that crankshaft it pulls the piston to far out of the bottom of the bore I've seen a couple of them come apart because of it
Myvintageiron7512
Oh I see. The wrist pin hole needs to be so high up on the Piston it pulls the skirt down too low. Good to know. Many thanks!
So do you not have to reinstall the valley pan?.. Also Did it run?..
It keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake and I believe it is important ,too.
Is it good to have a quench squish pad?
yes
That motor needs some boost with all that room for activity's.
74cc head displacement, 30cc piston dish displacement, I'm guessing 2cc head gasket displacement witch is 106cc but no cylinder dimensions got to go back threw older videos just because I'm curious🤔😆
4.080 bore 4.125 stroke the piston is actually 20 cc I made a mistake there the beret was not filled to the top I re checked off camera because it did not seem right head gasket is .040 compressed deck Clearance is .006 my math says around 9.5 to 1
@@Myvintageiron7512 i was trying to figure it all out as well.
Hello. Your thoughts about my below question?
Great video. I did the same thing with my performer RPM intake with the black paint. I couldn't believe you didn't put roller lifters on this build but I guess there wasn't a need for it. Did you opt for the aftermarket hardened rocker shaft?
These engines run forever in stock form. There really wouldn't be much need for a hardened rocker shaft unless the customer just absolutely requested it.
Actually it does have roller lifters and cam
roller rockers is what you meant I'm guessing roller rockers are way over rated they do absolutely nothing below 6000 RPM complete waste of money
Can you share the cost of a job like this?
Waa I missing something.. during all that work on them heads.. how come u didnt port an polish them?
Because a port and polish job is around $800.00 and the customer did not pay for that ,
more importantly Porting and polishing these factory heads is a complete waste of time,
by the time you port and polish these heads you will have more money into them then just buying aftermarket Aluminum heads that will out flow your ported iron heads by a mile
Thank u for responding. That makes total sense. I appreciate the information a great deal. Ive learned alot from ur videos. An will continue to watch.
When you removed the intake, I thought there was a Valley pan you removed. I didn't see you reinstalled, does it need to be there?
not with aluminum intake and roller rockers much less heat and friction
@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks for answering my question
What happened to the lifter valley pan that came out. Is it not necessary to put back in on these 390's???
the lifter valley pan does not fit with roller lifters
I thought that was why it was left out! Just wanted to make sure, since the oil pick up tube was accidentally replaced with the short version. Thank you for clearing this up for me, I always thought that the valley pan was used no matter what, but I was mistaken. Like these vids, you do a jam up job. Keep them coming, especially the 302 - 429 fords, LOL.
No 390 ever had valve to piston clearance issues when... Ever
I had a problem with a Crower Roller Cam on an early 352 they hit the pistons , hard .Someone sold me a car that didn't run because of bent valves and push rods .
Hey boss great videos have a question I’m building a stroker 489 bbc and I’m going with the 049 heads. I have them in the machine shop now getting bigger valves installed my question to you is how much can I have milled down without getting to crazy with it? I’m planning on using 18cc dome pistons and plan on trying to stick with 9.5 to 10 compression. Thanks in advance
that sounds about right you don't need to mill a ton off the heads with those pistons I am actually doing that exact same build right now however I am not doing a video series on it those pistons should put you at around 10 to 1
I noticed you didn't use the stock plate under the intake manifold is there a reason for that?
The roller lifters are too tall it won't fit
@@Myvintageiron7512 ah makes sense, thank you. Love your videos by the way
Another good video. I wonder if you could tell me what cam, crank and pistons you installed in this engine. I would like to build my 390 as close as yours since mine is going in an F250. I'm really not confident in choosing these myself. Forgive me if you have given this info in another video. Thanks.
I can do one better I will attach the Article that gave me the idea for this build complete with dyno resultswww.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/1410-how-to-build-a-390fe-stroker-500-pound-feet/
Thank you so much. That's just what I needed. You made my day!
no problem I'm happy to share
Any Ford 4.6 Modular engine builds?
Is there a mock head gasket kit tool that acts like a shim for measurements at torque bolt squash? Idk, just a fan...🤙🌪️
No doubt you are very theral but why did you leave out the intake Valley Pan.
You cannot use it with roller lifters it's not needed with aluminum intake anyway
Does the wife know you are using her good kitchen knife?
O heck no
If I remember correctly, you used a roller cam? If so, why not use new roller rockers as well?
roller rockers do absolutely nothing below 6000 RPM they are a waste of money
I wasn't thinking of them for power, I like them because they keep me from needing to add zinc to the oil and their overall durability - like any modern V8 made in the last two or three decades.
If your running a flat tappit camshaft you need oil with zinc. Roller rockers has nothing to do with that
hello my name is Zane. I've been watching your channel a long time and really look up to your knowledge and opinions so I would like to ask you a question. I can't find your email so I'm going to ask you here. I am building a 98 ls1 (my first engine build). I want to build it to take a 100 shot of nitrous from time to time. what kind of piston rings do I need as far as materials?
Call total seal and talk to keith he will want more info but he can sell you the right rings
(800-874-2753)
www.totalseal.com/
ok thank you. btw love the channel. I've learned a lot. keep up the good work
Can I ship you my block and have you build my motor?
What pistons did you use on this build?
stock
Why won't you finish a build series with your engines. Like the 502 build the last one was degreeing the cam then you quit
after the Cam degree video is was done it was only a short block
Whats the run down on the? And did you just rebuild the heads or did you do some port work
It's in the previous videos.
No mention of lifter preload (what value do you use?)...didn't show pushrod checking tool being used to find pushrod length. Was looking forward to that. Color me disappointed.
with the factory non adjustable rocker shaft all you really need to do is find a push rod that puts you in the middle of your lifter plunger travel the way I did it was I measured the difference between the flat tappet lifter and the roller lifter than subtracted that much from the push rod length to a set of push rods it worked perfectly the push rods I bought were perfect right in the center of the hyd lifter plunger travel
@@Myvintageiron7512 A unique case. And works as long as there's no change in installed valve height. Seems amazing that the height didn't change after the valve grinding and new seats.
I mention all this since I'm battling the valve train of an old Buick odd-fire V6 (valve job w/new hardened exhaust seats). At this point, I want to shoot the guy who thought of non-adjustable rocker shafts. Needs new pushrods, so I bought a length checker and have to settle on a lifter preload value for the new Sealed Power hyd flat-tappet lifters. Looking to go for 0.040" since everyone says 0.020" to 0.060", so I figured to aim for the middle. Sound plausible?
Love the vids, BTW. Just would like to see more nitty-gritty tech details.
@@warrenzevonsangryghost6055 wait ! why are the valve stems at a different height? who did the valve job? any machine shop worth their salt knows that you half to measure the valve stem heights before you remove the valves and then re measure after the valve job so you can grind the stem tips to restore the height to original specs if you do a valve job and don't do this it turns into a nightmare I would say whoever did those heads should never be trusted to any type of machine work if you want to shoot someone it should be the guy that did the half ass job on those heads Good Luck
@@Myvintageiron7512 The shop here in KC has been around for many decades, and known for rebuilding and repairing (sometimes after horrific damage) some of the most expensive heads ever made (megabuck Brodix, Lamborghini, Ferrari, and of course, old fashioned plain-Jane Ford and Chevy V8's and such). Figured my lowly odd-fire Buick V6 heads would be no big deal for these guys.
"measure the valve stem heights before you remove the valves and then re-measure after the valve job so you can grind the stem tips to restore the height to original specs "
Yeah, well, it didn't happen that way. Heads were cleaned, milled a few thou, and hardened exhaust seats installed, as well as new Sealed Power springs, positive seals on the intake, and Viton umbrella seals on the exhaust. Picked the heads up, and before I installed, I noticed that the exhaust valves were visibly shorter than the intakes. Did some measuring (the best I could with only calipers) and the variance from tallest intake to shortest exhaust was around 0.040", and while certainly the new exhaust seats played a role in the short exhaust valves, I was still pissed considering what I spent at their shop. Does not appear that much (if any) attention was paid to the valve height they had when the heads were received, and no one could have even eyeballed the stem heights as the difference from exhaust to intake was obvious. I called the shop, and the owner was very apologetic and told me to bring the heads back ASAP, which I did. We spoke on the phone a few days later, and it seems that I was not likely the first to do a valve job on the old Buick, and in order to straighten out the mess, new exhaust valves were needed, which was done (at an additional parts cost to me, but no additional labor). As far as the screw-up, I was told that the spring pad at several locations were recessed from where they were supposed to be (casting error? can't check as my spring compressor seems to have wandered off), and of course the new seats played a role as well. Seemed a lame excuse, but I saw nothing to gain by pushing the issue.
So I'm conflicted about the shop. Real nice bunch of guys, and I'm sure they know their chit, but I kinda feel like their approach was "here's a pair of old crusty Buick heads...let's get 'em done and get 'em out, we have more important things to work on that'll make us lots more money". Maybe that's unfair to 'em (they were certainly plenty contrite when I brought the heads back in anyway), but that's how I end up seeing the deal.
Anyway, after too many $$ spent, the valve stem heights look good now, but I have little idea where the valve heights are as compared to where they were when I dropped the heads off. I indeed do need new pushrods, and have a length checker to tackle the situation. Once I get the heads on I''ll know more. Figuring on about 0.040" preload for the new Sealed Power lifters, as everything I read says 0.020" to 0.060" is the target, so I thought to aim for the middle. Sound plausible?
(BTW, read all of this, you're not only an engine guru, but a saint as well. Rock on my friend!)
What bore and stroke??
4.080 / 4.125
do you have an email u can be reached at would like to ask some questions about some engine work
At some point will you do a small block Ford stroker build?
dude, lol, thats what hes doin rite now
Like your video! I put Edelbrock heads on a 68 428 Ford Motor FE. Edelbrock head number is 60069. I then installed the 60069 stud kit assembly for rocker arm assembly. When I put the oil baffles pan under the rocker arm assembly it hits Edelbrock's head and won't lay flat. Can I leave the oil baffle pan out or should I try and modify it to fit the Edelbrock heads. Your video 390 Stroker Build Part 8 says it is important to have it in the motor. Is that because you used stock heads. Thank you, Brian Penney.
no
I notice that when ordering head gaskets for my 390 FE, they specify Bore measurement. 4.08 or 4.19 or 4.25 and 4.4. Which is the correct one to use and why would there be all these options. When I measure the inside of the cylinder bore, mine is 4.08. so which gasket bore can I use.
With all the valve clearance why did you not move the cam 2 to 4 degrees advance?
Looks all to hard for me
do not use silicone!!! use weather strip adhesive, Permatex aviation sealer, permatex #2 ! also torque in 3 or more steps flowing torque pattern do not torque to torque specs in one step! all so I prefer to use the china wall gaskets, but a lot do not do to the fact that the old time non silicone sealers I mentioned above are not as popular. the old sealers are like glue and set in 5-15min sum do not harden but set up ,others harden to a point keeps the gaskets from moving makes it idiot proof!! also on ford small blocks 302w-351w you need to use the intake gasket for the year head you are using as the ports sizing changed a LOT over time. all so on the 302w-351w use 4 studs 2 on each head second bolt hole from each end to line up the intake gaskets and intake. then with the intake on put the bolts on hand tight in the renaming bolt holes then remove the studs replace with bolts and torque to spec. all so use stranded no PERFORMANCE intake gaskets from felpro as thy have a steel core with raised bosses around ports for hi presser seal. PERFORMANCE gaskets from felpro do not have a stamped steel core and use a silicone boss around the ports instead of stamped steel. the standard blue ones are a lot cheaper as well!! all so NEVER reuse intake bolts as thy stretch. ues bolts from industrial suppler grade 8 with USS grade 8 washers!! bolts from industrial supplier or well stocked hardware stores are cheaper and better than a lot of OE or performance shops just bring your old bolts for sizing. have learned the hard way with ford intakes so those are my tips as well as phrasing Fords tips. well good luck with the fe thy are a STRONG engine. with little work a 390 can destroy a built c6!!!
Oh my everyone's going to want to be The Machinist now till they find out how many hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of equipment you have there and the countless hours to meticulously put something together properly hey I'm just shade tree even that takes countless hours and hundreds of dollars
Bro...let me find out your calling Play-Doh clearance putty lmfao I don't even reuse that stuff it's so cheap....score