My CJ had two different year heads by the time I got it. Drivers side had the four bolt exhaust manifold and passenger just had the two. They had been cut a lot and port matched to the Ford factory aluminum cobra jet intake that I had on it. TRW 12.5 forged pistons with head shaved and running solid tappet cam from Kuntz and Kraft, Harlan Sharp roller rockers and aluminum spacers with the heavier shafts, made 675hp/710torque at the flywheel.
Ill give you a tip. When you give displacement you first state the original displacement of the engine and then the stroked and bored displacement of the engine. This allows people to understand what is going on. Example. 390FE bored and stroked to 428 CID. This makes a big difference because not all blocks are created equal. A 360 stroked out to a 428 is much superior to the 390 stroked to a 428 because the 360 truck block has reinforced webbing. Just a tip. Good to see the old mill getting love.
The 360/390 blocks are the same... Same bore and went in the same trucks. The blocks you speak of are the later 105 mirror blocks. They had the extra webbing. 73-78 the MCC blocks were cast. 73-76 in light dutys and ran to late 78 in FT medium dutys.
How would this engine run out with a Ford OEM cam, lifters, rockers and push rods as used on the 427 of the middle sixties? I had a 67 390 Mustang which I installed these parts (and the higher rocker covers!) in, and while the idle was really "lumpy" it ran like a beast! I have no idea what the HP was. Carb was the stock Holley with two accelerator pumps.
If you don't use spiro locks you are asking for a wrist pin to come out when you rev over 5000 rpm's and I have a thing about those SCJ cranks being the weak link because they snap right in the middle where the hatchet is . I never saw the regular CJ snap like that . Internal balance may cost more but it's worth the cost of welding Mallory weight into the crank for proper balance .
Nice build! I'm not fond of the factory two piece spring retainers but I'm sure they will work fine for your spring pressures. Not a fan of the composite timing gear either but then again I'm sure it will service you fine. I prefer the cam bearing in the 5 o'clock position as opposed to the 7 o'clock position as well. I'm not certain that the dist adapter bushing has relevance on oil pressure but is necessary for using the FT block with a FE distributor. This was a great video and FE BUILD! Thumbs up!
Your correct. With the size of the cam and spring pressures, the 2 pc retainers will be just fine. Leaving the dist shaft sleeve out will not make you loose oil pressure to zero but its a bigger leak than you need if you don't put the sleeve in. The cam bearings were actually put in at the 5 o'clock position. If you turn the video upside down, you'll see them at 5 o'clock. My mistake when editing the video, it must have been late that night!. Putting them in at 5 means that the oil is fed to the cam journal just before the load area at 6 o'clock and allows maximum surface area of bearing to take the load of 16 valve springs pushing down on it. Thanks for the review.
@@ford-speed No one runs the nylon gear timing chain. They come apart and the nylon parts often wind up getting hung up in the gerotor of the oil pump, it twist up the oil pump drive and you're done. The double roller is reliable all day long and is about 50.00 U.S.
Interesting that your FT block doesn't have the bosses for mains side bolts used by the 427's. I have an old 1963 FE block that has them (though not drilled) and figured all of them did.
Motor is in 66 Thunderbird. Dynoed at about 500 kms and torque is almost staight line to 160 kms.....dyno shop impessed with the torque curve (me too) HP almost 350 after carb update and slight recurving of dissy. Runs nice, pulls like a train - just what you need with a 2.5 tonne convertible....I'd do it again!
Hello Peter. Did we have fun installing that engine. Went well. Even though you wanted the rushed start. The look on your face after we had done our due diligence and it started and run.
if you raise bottom of intake and exhaust ports we braze them get your cc,s back by raising top of port the same amount standard they flow 270 cfm intake and 50% of that out of exhaust they are constipated with port raising they flow 357 cfm intake and 82% exhaust results are 710 hp at 7450 peak torque at 6000 3200 lbs 66 sedan fairlane 910x 148 mph 427x2 fours
No one brazes ports to raise them. JB Weld or other similar materials. He would have been better off going with the edelbrock heads. However, with the stump puller no performance cam it would all be wasted.
hey mate great video. mate im building a 428 fe aswel. luckily im in australia. i need to speak to you to get some advice mate . you video has answered a lot of my questions. best one ive found online so far. great job. if you are will to help please send me you email or something so i can email you or give you a ring. thank you for your video once again.
@@ford-speed I am putting a freshly built 428 FE in a 67 mustang. Dont have the factory exhaust manifolds. What would you recommend to use? There isn't much room between the cylinder heads and the shock tower. Thank you. Adam from Canada
Adam Wilson Sorry no or factory cast exhaust currently. There are at least 2 manufacturers of tube headers for the FE into 67-70 mustang. As for interference or 4into1 that might depend on your budget or horsepower level. I quick google search will bring up some headers. One make is called Sanderson I believe.
I have seen several of those SCJ cranks snap where the middle hatchet weight is . The 1 U B is a much stronger crank and Le mans Rods don't really make much difference . The NASCAR RODS really do .
That nylon cam gear should have been left out and a good quality double roller timing set used instead. And that dual plane intake would be great on a pickup truck hauling trash by the ton. A Streetmaster intake is far better as far as HP and Torque are concerned.
Agreed. This thing is going to be a total dog and all done by about 4200. The cam is ridiculous and less than a stock 390. You don't need a bunch more torque with a square bore and stroke. A 428 in passenger car trim puts out about 440lbs of torque.
So much wrong with this build. Shortcuts, non-performace/upgraded parts. Why would you go to the trouble of the 428 route and put in a cam that is lower performing than a 390 GT cam or a 428 CJ cam? The reason you needed the hatchet weight is because you used the wrong damper for a 428. That is a low performance truck damper.
Everything you did should really slow the engine down .I can't believe you are doing it ? That carb is junk ! You can't change jets with that a stupid jet plate in the rear . A center pivot float carb would be far better . If you use those wrist pin locks you could ruin an engine because they seem to fall out . Be smart and put the spairo locks in for safety sake ?
He doesn't need a center-hung Holley. I have the factory dual Holley 600 vacuum secondary carburetors and I changed the rear plates to units that allow the use of standard Holley jets. They're 53.00 each.
Only a complete idiot would think that smaller bores would give you a higher pressure or flow through you intake/head ports. Buy after market heads and do the build right,
My CJ had two different year heads by the time I got it. Drivers side had the four bolt exhaust manifold and passenger just had the two. They had been cut a lot and port matched to the Ford factory aluminum cobra jet intake that I had on it. TRW 12.5 forged pistons with head shaved and running solid tappet cam from Kuntz and Kraft, Harlan Sharp roller rockers and aluminum spacers with the heavier shafts, made 675hp/710torque at the flywheel.
Who would have known. I had the pleasure of installing this engine that was built by you in to Peter's 66 Thunderbird.
Hi Aaron. Thanks. i need to get in touch in the next little while. DRew
Ill give you a tip. When you give displacement you first state the original displacement of the engine and then the stroked and bored displacement of the engine. This allows people to understand what is going on. Example. 390FE bored and stroked to 428 CID. This makes a big difference because not all blocks are created equal. A 360 stroked out to a 428 is much superior to the 390 stroked to a 428 because the 360 truck block has reinforced webbing. Just a tip. Good to see the old mill getting love.
The 360/390 blocks are the same...
Same bore and went in the same trucks. The blocks you speak of are the later 105 mirror blocks. They had the extra webbing. 73-78 the MCC blocks were cast. 73-76 in light dutys and ran to late 78 in FT medium dutys.
This video is better when muted
Enjoyed the video. Nice work. Hopefully next video you might slow it down some. Look forward to the next one
How would this engine run out with a Ford OEM cam, lifters, rockers and push rods as used on the 427 of the middle sixties? I had a 67 390 Mustang which I installed these parts (and the higher rocker covers!) in, and while the idle was really "lumpy" it ran like a beast! I have no idea what the HP was. Carb was the stock Holley with two accelerator pumps.
Beautiful engine nice job
Great Video! I am looking to make some changes to my 428SCJ, What brand of push rods, rocker arm/shaft setup did you use in this?
If you don't use spiro locks you are asking for a wrist pin to come out when you rev over 5000 rpm's and I have a thing about those SCJ cranks being the weak link because they snap right in the middle where the hatchet is . I never saw the regular CJ snap like that . Internal balance may cost more but it's worth the cost of welding Mallory weight into the crank for proper balance .
Nice build! I'm not fond of the factory two piece spring retainers but I'm sure they will work fine for your spring pressures. Not a fan of the composite timing gear either but then again I'm sure it will service you fine. I prefer the cam bearing in the 5 o'clock position as opposed to the 7 o'clock position as well. I'm not certain that the dist adapter bushing has relevance on oil pressure but is necessary for using the FT block with a FE distributor. This was a great video and FE BUILD! Thumbs up!
Your correct. With the size of the cam and spring pressures, the 2 pc retainers will be just fine. Leaving the dist shaft sleeve out will not make you loose oil pressure to zero but its a bigger leak than you need if you don't put the sleeve in. The cam bearings were actually put in at the 5 o'clock position. If you turn the video upside down, you'll see them at 5 o'clock. My mistake when editing the video, it must have been late that night!. Putting them in at 5 means that the oil is fed to the cam journal just before the load area at 6 o'clock and allows maximum surface area of bearing to take the load of 16 valve springs pushing down on it. Thanks for the review.
scott vincent I'm sure he don't give a fuck what you don't care for!
@@ford-speed No one runs the nylon gear timing chain. They come apart and the nylon parts often wind up getting hung up in the gerotor of the oil pump, it twist up the oil pump drive and you're done. The double roller is reliable all day long and is about 50.00 U.S.
Great job do you remember what the od was on sleeves and the thickness to get back to standard bore
Observation here but are not the ignition coil to face to the front of the engine ?
i got fe 390 it been bored .030 with trw piston would i get more compression with new piston or reuse one i got its a budget build
That's a beautiful engine!
Interesting that your FT block doesn't have the bosses for mains side bolts used by the 427's. I have an old 1963 FE block that has them (though not drilled) and figured all of them did.
The only block common with "Norbs" for cross bolts was 63-64 some early 65 390 blocks.
Motor is in 66 Thunderbird. Dynoed at about 500 kms and torque is almost staight line to 160 kms.....dyno shop impessed with the torque curve (me too) HP almost 350 after carb update and slight recurving of dissy. Runs nice, pulls like a train - just what you need with a 2.5 tonne convertible....I'd do it again!
Hi Peter, good to hear the project got on the road. Happy to hear the outcome was finally a decent one.
Hello Peter. Did we have fun installing that engine. Went well. Even though you wanted the rushed start. The look on your face after we had done our due diligence and it started and run.
Im guessing the 1UB is a 428 crankshaft stock?
if you raise bottom of intake and exhaust ports we braze them get your cc,s back by raising top of port the same amount standard they flow 270 cfm intake and 50% of that out of exhaust they are constipated with port raising they flow 357 cfm intake and 82% exhaust results are 710 hp at 7450 peak torque at 6000 3200 lbs 66 sedan fairlane 910x 148 mph 427x2 fours
No one brazes ports to raise them. JB Weld or other similar materials. He would have been better off going with the edelbrock heads. However, with the stump puller no performance cam it would all be wasted.
Can you bore a 390 to a 428
Nice drew plenty good mods there to the 428.
The hatch weight is to be used with 427 lemans rods.
Could have used a little port and polish work on the heads to match the gaskets a little better
hey mate great video. mate im building a 428 fe aswel. luckily im in australia. i need to speak to you to get some advice mate . you video has answered a lot of my questions. best one ive found online so far. great job. if you are will to help please send me you email or something so i can email you or give you a ring. thank you for your video once again.
Email me - maingirdles@gmail.com. Happy to chat
@@ford-speed I am putting a freshly built 428 FE in a 67 mustang. Dont have the factory exhaust manifolds. What would you recommend to use? There isn't much room between the cylinder heads and the shock tower. Thank you. Adam from Canada
Adam Wilson Sorry no or factory cast exhaust currently.
There are at least 2 manufacturers of tube headers for the FE into 67-70 mustang. As for interference or 4into1 that might depend on your budget or horsepower level.
I quick google search will bring up some headers. One make is called Sanderson I believe.
use holly carb jets to restrict oil to heads tap light with hammer put in oil hole under head gasket
We used to use a piece of 5/16 screw and grind 2 sides drop it in the oil hole under the rocker stand . Worked great. Use a magnet for removal .
Holley jets should be 70 minimum. They slide in, no need to touch them with a hammer.
You really should slow down wording so people can read it
Yes it's a factory 428 CJ crankshaft
I have seen several of those SCJ cranks snap where the middle hatchet weight is . The 1 U B is a much stronger crank and Le mans Rods don't really make much difference . The NASCAR RODS really do .
Can you bore a 390 to a 428
That nylon cam gear should have been left out and a good quality double roller timing set used instead. And that dual plane intake would be great on a pickup truck hauling trash by the ton. A Streetmaster intake is far better as far as HP and Torque are concerned.
There a two different ford blue,dark ford blue and light ford blue.
Would have been a nice video with out the crap music
Those 352 heads are a very poor choice for a performance engine small ports and valves make them rob horse power .
Yes but if your using it in an 250 4x4 69 in makes alot of tork bilt 2 it works.
CJ heads would give you both torque and horse power .
Agreed. This thing is going to be a total dog and all done by about 4200. The cam is ridiculous and less than a stock 390. You don't need a bunch more torque with a square bore and stroke. A 428 in passenger car trim puts out about 440lbs of torque.
I had to mute. It was killing my will to live. I cant believe he /she put that timing set in it.
So much wrong with this build. Shortcuts, non-performace/upgraded parts. Why would you go to the trouble of the 428 route and put in a cam that is lower performing than a 390 GT cam or a 428 CJ cam? The reason you needed the hatchet weight is because you used the wrong damper for a 428. That is a low performance truck damper.
Everything you did should really slow the engine down .I can't believe you are doing it ? That carb is junk ! You can't change jets with that a stupid jet plate in the rear . A center pivot float carb would be far better . If you use those wrist pin locks you could ruin an engine because they seem to fall out . Be smart and put the spairo locks in for safety sake ?
He doesn't need a center-hung Holley. I have the factory dual Holley 600 vacuum secondary carburetors and I changed the rear plates to units that allow the use of standard Holley jets. They're 53.00 each.
6:00 am, Wednesday, October 5, 2023. Slow down the vid, can't read your script.
Only a complete idiot would think that smaller bores would give you a higher pressure or flow through you intake/head ports. Buy after market heads and do the build right,
All that nice work until you went with a plastic timing gear......