Ford FE Build Tips
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- We show the tips on an original stroke, factory rods, 9.5:1 compression on 93 octane. Stock D2TE-A heads with CJ valves. Stock S code intake and a 750 Holley carb. Cam is a Comp 260H. Peak observed power was 357 at 5300 RPM and peak torque was 396 at 3900.
survivalmotorsp...
www.autorestom...
Street Performance 390
Barry has dynoed these engines to 375 HP 440Torque.
OEM iron block:
Early with two bolt motor mounts (1964 & prior)
Connecting rods:
OEM Reconditioned with ARP fasteners
Oil Pump
Melling
Oil Pump Drive Shaft
ARP
Pistons
Sealed Power Hypereutectic flat top +.030
Piston rings
Speed Pro chrome moly
RPM Range 1200-5200
Pushrods:
Comp Cams OE Replacement
Rocker Assemblies
OE cleaned/new shafts
Timing Set*: Replacement
Damper
OEM replacement (Scott Drake)
Cylinder heads:
Original - Reconditioned with all new hardware
Intake Manifold:
OE Four Barrel (S Code)
Carburetor
Holley 750 CFM Vacuum Secondary
Distributor:
Factory with Pertronix electronic conversion
Duraspark Distributor
Engine Rebuild Kit:
Bearings - cam
Bearings - main
Bearings - rod
Freeze & Galley Plug Set
Gaskets - Fel-Pro Complete Set
$700.00
Total Parts $4,189.30
Engine machining
Bore & Hone with torque plates $275.00
Deck head surfaces $170.00
Line hone mains $225.00
Install cam bearings$ 85.00
Intake manifold - mill to fit $85.00
Regrind & Polish Crankshaft $220.00
Assembly - Complete Engine $1,500.00
Dyno break in and testing - optional but recommended $1,000.00
Total Services $3,560.00
Total Parts and Services $7,749.30
___________________________
High Performance 445 Barry has dynoed these engines to 500 Horse 500 torque
OEM 390 iron block
*Scat cast crankshaft: 4.250 stroke
*Scat I beam connecting rods: 6.700 long
*Molnar Technology as a substitute
*Mahle Forged pistons - Compression 10.8:1
*Total Seal piston rings
*Federal-Mogul race bearings
Order from your favorite speed shop
*Balanced rotating assembly
Oil Pump & Prep
Melling
Oil Pump Drive
ARP
Oil Pan & Pickup
Moroso T type
Windage Tray
Canton
Damper
Dayco Powerbond
Cam & Lifter package - Hydraulic roller
Comp Cams (custom spec cam)
234/240 @50 .594 Lift 110 112 lobe sep.
or Bullet Cams
224/230 @50 .570 Lift 110 lobe sep.
Morel Roller Lifters
Pushrods
Manley custom length (not specified)
Roller Rocker Assembly
Harland Sharp
Timing Set
Ford Double Roller
(unspecified) Cloyes?
Survival Motorsports heads - complete:
Upgraded Stainless Valves, 4130 retainers
Springs, Keepers, Locators, Seals
Water Pump
Edelbrock
Intake Manifold
Edelbrock Performer RPM
Carburetor:
Holley 750CFM Double Pumper
Fuel Pump
Carter Street/Strip
Distributor
MSD Billet ready to run
Distributor Gear
Comp Cams Steel
Spark Plug Wires
MSD Ignition (Holley Brand)
Engine machining
Bore & Hone with torque plates, line hone
Parallel deck, Install cam bearings, etc.
Mill & port match Intake to fit as required
Total Parts…………………………………10,667.09
Cam bearings $32.95
Cam Thrust plate - OE $35.00
Carburetor Spacer $24.95
Carburetor Studs $6.95
Damper spacer - billet $71.50
Distributor Hold Down - Stainless $25.00
Dowel Pins - Cylinder Heads (4) $8.00
Fasteners - ARP - Heads, Stainless Dress Up $255.00
Freeze Plug Set $25.00
Gaskets
Fel-Pro Race
Assembly - Complete Engine…………….1,500.00
Dyno Testing……………………………….1,000.00
Cradle for Shipping - Refundable …………..65.00
Total Services……………………………….3,765.00
Total Parts and Services………………….14,432.09
The 390 is just simply a torque monster, even in stock trim..
Yes.
FE 427 is 100 more hp and 70 less lbs than a ch**y
@@duccanard9079 but sadly 3 times as expensive,. If,,. You can find one..
indeed
427 ft lbs of torque in stock 390 form. Not a torque monster in my book.
I'm new to the 390 , but will gain experience with it as I've just bought a 1975 F-350 with a steel 12' dump bed , and not even running that well , that 390 is still pretty stout. Lots of knowledge to build with my new , old girl.
Built a 390 for my F100, it turned out pretty good for being a home built mill. Standard 390 bottom end, c8ae-h heads, Holley street dominator intake, comp thumper cam, Holley 750, long tubes. She runs really strong. Probably twice the power of the original 360. Those FE engines can be really nice every day mills with minimal work.
Agreed.
Get a better cam. Like a lunati 268 or a Howard’s You’ll thank me
@@joumasepoes88 oh I agree, you're not wrong. But this comp thumper cam was free, it came in one of the blocks I bought so I ran it.
This engine was literally slapped together with used parts in my buddies garage to get me by until I build the other block right.
@@CadillacZachOffical they do sound quite nice.
Barry is awesome. I read the book he wrote when I was building my FE and too boot read many of his post on the various forums. Great wealth of information and always seems willing to share.
Couldn't agree more!
He gave me a few tips on the FE Facebook group while I was doing my build, also got a lot of advice from a guy named David Early who builds his own FE "grudge" motor.
Love the ford builds
Thanks for doing the FE. I've been listening to Barry for the past 10 years. Just a note of caution for folks building an FE: Don't let just any good engine builder build it. Make sure they know about FE in particular. Oil flow being the main issue.
I had to train my machinitist.I go to another one in a different city close by for my heads.hog block oil holes to7/16,360 pistons,390 std. crank good for7k revs,got forged too.d2 and c2ae heads(got 3 bumpsides).unidentified AL intake,no firing order,no C- numbers,ford stamp and small 1439 by thermostat.thinking low rise.
@@duccanard9079 I remember some High performance FE came with a factory AL intake. It was either an early T-Bird or later police intercepter. I remember it being low rise. Hey, 7K revs is fantastic out of an FE.
Good point!
Barry is the best out there. I love the FE, it is a strong light engine. Get the iron intake off and you are in small block Chevy territory in weight! Ford did an amazing job designing this engine decades ahead of its time! I have known Barry since 1999 and half of the 394 ci FE I am still beating on came from his company, TRW. It still has no oil consumption, blow by or noise. It runs really good and makes great power just from great parts, details in machining and my own two hands.
@@ltwig476 - You are referring to the police interceptor intake. It was identical to the cast iron (98 pound) 428CJ intake. I helped a buddy swap in this manifold on his stock ‘69 CJ Mach 1 back around 1974. The front end of the car sat about 3/4” higher after swapping in the AL manifold.
This is my favorite show on RUclips. You guys have helped me dramatically with my 1970 f250 explorer camper special. I love how you guys explain all the minor details and show the the mistakes you make so that we don't make them for ourselves. Keep up the great work. Much respect!
Simply the best engine I have ever built 👍
They are stone cold reliable if done correctly.
Rebuilding my first 390 fe this video was definitely very helpful
My first vehicle my grandfather gave me was a 68 LTD with a 390. I have a soft spot for the FE engines. I happen to know of the existence of a Jaguar XKE with a 390 tripower sticking out of the hood.
So they traded a British leaker for an American one. LOL JK
More FE focused stories is always a great thing! Mo better, as they say. I have built my share. Currently own an aluminum Pond 427 stroked to 482. Hyd Roller cam and ported Edlebrock heads with 2.25 and 1.75 valves. 605 hp. 605 torque. But that motor cost me over $15,000 and I did a lot of the work.
Changes to your build;
Forged pistons
Always balance an engine
aluminum heads are super reasonable now. Always take the heads apart and inspect them. Also Trick Flow makes great FE heads now.
Go with a Ford interceptor intake.
Holley and no less that 750cfm for FE motors.
Stock rebuild distributor with pertronix is the right direction.
Morel makes great lifters.
Nice!
Sweet! I'll come to you for a build when I get the money 😁
Morgan L, it is great that you are still in the FE fold. Do you still have the 66 Fairlane sleeper 428 in green? That is a neat car!
First time here! Barry and I have been friends 30+ maybe more he is FE Guru. I like you talk with energy just great. Watching now. Mike Caruso Chicago 71 years Tennessee 1 year and love everyone here I have met.
You are the man!
Thank you for the Awesome info folks !
Currently debating to continue fixing a 65 Galaxie w/390. It’s a project
Kind of fun to think about what I could do if I had a 67-68 Mustang and crazy money!
Or a '63 Galaxie....
There are basically three shops that build FE’s. Barry (Survival Motorsports), Brent Lykin’s (Lykins motorsports) he’s also a 351C builder and Blair Patrick (CaptCobraJet) who builds FE Race Engines. These are the top three builders I know of for FE’s. You will find there names all over the FE forums. Also Jay Brown (FE Power) has some really cool stuff he’s developing, including a really crazy custom head design that has made over 840hp I believe.
I was not aware of Jay. That sound wild. It is kinda like the grassroots flathead stuff. Part of me says "why?" while the inner child says "MORE PLEASE!!!!"
@@AutoRestoMod Blair Patrick is by far the best FE builder of those mentioned. Jay Brown excellent at making FE parts. Not at all impressed with Barry or Brent in my experiences with both of them.
@@Bbbbad724 I guess you had not heard. At some point Lance Smith took over Keith Crafts shop and renamed it Craft Performance Engines. Lance Smith proceeded to take down payments/deposits over a two year period from at least 30 customers and provided nothing in return. I believe we are talking about $400,000+ in deposits. I was one of those customers. He just closed up shop one day this last Aug-Sep 2022. He didn't inform any customers that had an outstanding build. Didn't tell anyone to come get their blocks/parts before he closed the door. He just left it up to the customer to run across his out of business sign posted on his web site. He wouldn't answer his phone. All of us are waiting to hear anything from his attorney regarding getting our money back. The Clark County Arkansas prosecutor's office does not feel that anything is criminal with that, and refuses to pursue any criminal charges. I am out a $2100 engine block, a $6000 deposit, $1500 in legal fees, and $1500 in travel expenses. It will be a cold day in hell before I do any business in Arkadelphia or Clark County AR again.
I had a set of ported 64 heads that had 2.19/1.65 valves that I ported real well. They just disappeared from the machine shop and I was just SOL. They were really good and quiet all the way to.800 lift, and they hit peak flow at .500 and were smooth as silk all the way to .800.
Thanks for the video. This validated my 390FE rebuild decisions, although I’m switching to EFI.
Check out Barry's channel on here: ruclips.net/user/Survival427FE He has a couple of FE's that are running the Sniper system.
I enjoyed this video. I have a 390 I’d like to bump up. This gave me more insight/information that I definitely needed. Thanks 👍🏽
Glad it was helpful!
I had a 360 in an f150 that thing was strong ran like a charm too.
If you decide to make it a 390 or 445, call Barry he will fix you up!
Keep building those FE s awesome
Barry is!
There are many other stroker combos possible with FE engines. 445 is the most common it seems. Stroker pistons for it are stock items. Also, if you are going to build one yourself, I highly recommend Barry's books on the subject. Helped me greatly in building my 445.
Barry is a wealth of knowledge for sure.
Outstanding Video...for me the top 3 for any non "Side-Oiler" FE are as follows, #1 Rework the oiling system #2 Rework the oiling system #3 Rework the oiling system
Graduated in '66 and was messing with Mercury's back in the day. S-55 390 4-speed cars. You hit the nail on the head, a few times. The oil pump drive shaft will break if it's OEM - guaranteed. Didn't have ARP back then, but we had Un-Breako brand allen wrenches and you could cut down a long reach one to work, no more broken drive shafts.
The FE will fill the valve covers with oil in a quarter mile at high RPM, so we ran 1 qt over so they would not starve. But that makes huge windage. So pay real attention to smoothing drain-back passages, do not run HV pumps (not needed) and go light on the oil viscosity so they flow back better. Truck heads work well. So do Interceptor Marine heads (if you can find them). The marine cams are not bad on the street. For a big HP motor, you have the better formula ... But they are fun, once you get them running right 😁
i have a 67 GT 390 FE big block for my 68 fastback that i pulled out of a wrecked 67 GT cougar this video will help thanks
My FE390 has been bored .050 over making it a 400ci, 531/540 lobe lift on Oregon Cam, RPM intake and heads, 1.76:1 ratio on HS Rocker Arms, 770CFM Holley Carb, 1" spacer. I make about 450HP and about the same on torque. It'll be mated with TKO500 with Hurst short throw shifter, aluminum driveshaft, 9" Eaton Detroit TruTrac center with 4.33 gear ratio and 31 spline axles. 2.5" FPA headers with Flowmaster 44s and Flowmaster dual tips. You can keep your Coyote :)
Lots of people Love these engines. Me included.
Stock stroke?
@@slick-px4pq yes
who knew stock iron intake flowed so well, everyone is so quick to ditch the iron intake when they can just be cleaned up..
Right?!
Just the video I was looking for. Thanks!! Got a 360 FE from a f100 I’m looking to build
Glad I could help
For carb sizing, CFM that equals approximately 2X the cubic inch displacement has always worked well for me on street performance engines. Double pumper with a stick, vacuum secondaries with an automatic.
Good idea
While the CFM rule works well there's no need for a double pumper in most applications. I'm running the intake that came on my car. C7ZX with the dual quad BJ/BK 600 CFM Holleys.
@@myname9337 Nice. I'm running BJ/BK Holleys on a Holman-Moody intake on the 428SCJ in my '70 Cougar. But in single 4 bbl applications, mechanical secondaries are easier to tune and provide slightly snappier performance on a stick shift car, at least in my experience. A vacuum secondary carb can be set up to work just fine as well though, so from that standpoint you are correct, there's no "need"for a double pumper.
Brings confirmation to the early 1961 401hp 390's ratings. Especially with the big solid lifter cam and 11:1 compression. Ford knew what it was going.
Agreed!
My very first ride had an X-Code 390 in her. 1967 Fairlane GTA. Golly I wish I still had that car!
Love it! Pre 1962 FE have the cheesy cam thrust buttons. Post 1963 FE is awesome. 1964 have one year only motor mount.
1957 - 1964 blocks are all 2 bolt, chassis are year specific.
Thanks for the info!
64and 65 heads with 11/32 inserts in the guides with 2.15/1.625 valves with a good blend and valve job are in the group of the best low buck heads Ford made.
Sweet! I used to have 68 Torino GT and it had a 390 with the 4speed manual. Damn I miss that car!😑
Sell you my 69 cobra drag pack 428 scj if you like.... sorry I'm kidding
I like the video keep up the good work
I appreciate you contributions. Your 67 build was very helpful when I reassembled my Shelby. You suggested use of the FT Duraspark. They will not work in the FE block. The distributor has larger oil pump shift (5/16 Vs. 1/4)
The distributor oil pump drive hole is larger for FT engines. However, if you have the mirror 105 block with the larger drive hole Precision Oil Pumps offeres the bushing so you can use the standard FE distributor.
FE Duraspark works great especially with a MSD box.
Yup. Wonder if you could hide it under a Transistorized Ignition cover on a Galaxie...
This was awesome man! I just pulled the 390 out of my 62 Thunderbird Convertible I'm trying to resurrect; looking to go the 445 route but dressed up as a mostly original 390.
That will be a cool ride!
Feel so blessed to have a 351c 4v, 4 speed in a 70 torino gt, a 390 c6 in a 75 F- 1 fitty and my baby 69 fairlane cobra with 428cj 4speed. All numbers matching. motors and trans
That's a really sweet little collection you have there!
Those are some sweet looking rods...
The budget one blew me away. Cam and compression was about all there was done to it.
The stock rods are 5140 forgings. They are amazing!
Nice job!
Hi Mike!
Im going with the 445 dressed as a stock 390 ....I want a sleeper Starliner!
or a FFGS 500!
I am thinking that for the Galaxie.
or an FE with a cleveland intake
@@duccanard9079 Not sure if serious.....
@@duccanard9079 Jay Brown has adapters to run them!
Love 390 ❤
A lot of video keep up the good work man
Ford power !!!!!
Yup!
Informative video, thanks.
Here in Australia I have a 1968 Mercury Marquis Coupe.
I know your thinking land yacht but more of a cruiser one day I hope.
Exchanged the white walls and hubcaps for 15 inch US mags and BFG T/As
and it looks like a totally different animal.
Factory 390 4v, C6 auto, 9 inch rear end and power front discs.
Great original condition for a 52 year old car.
Lots of documentation from the previous owner and done about
280000 miles, a fair few on LPG with 2 small spots of rust.
Has original C8AE-H heads, S code intake, rated at 315HP@4600rpm.
Motor still has good oil pressure and compression on all but #8 cylinder.
I'm hoping due to a long time running LPG the short block will have some life
left in her and a burnt valve or head gasket issue could be the cause.
A leak down test may tell me more?
If good, then reco heads, swap autolite for my 600cfm vac Holley, shorty headers to
replace factory logs and see how I go.
Only 3850? made there in 1968 and a very rare car in Australia.
The guy I bought it off also imported a 1967 a few years earlier, not as good condition
as mine but with the factory 410 Mercury FE.
I could be wrong but think these are the only 2 Marquis coupes in Australia.
When I finally get my act together she will stand out at the coffee and cars/shows from
all the Mustangs in more ways than one, thanks to her small numbers and large size! :-)
Anyway, apologies for waffling, thanks again for the vid.
Cheers from downunder
We have a 1969 Marquis as well!
I just bought a 68 monterey with a 390 and c6 and probably a 9 inch I hope
34k miles for 1600 dollars
1 year old might want to up date as intakes are hard to find. Cast iron CJ-SCJ is great if you can find one. And short tube headers just fine.
Really love the video though keep up the good work
You are welcome!
Cam info is 260/260 adv dur 212/212 dur at .050 .484/.484 lift lobe separation angle is 110°
My book didn't say if those lift numbers were for the non adjustable 1.73 rockers or the adjustable 1.76 ratio rockers. I assume those lifts are for the 1.73 rockers
I found the 212/212 info twenty minutes after the video was posted. I was looking at the cams (like you do) and found the specs on Jegs. We might do a deep dive at some point with Barry. I would Love to have one of his 445 FEs in my Galaxie.
@@AutoRestoMod i bet a 445 would be a torque a sorus! In my pickups is love a 428 or even better a 427, I've come to terms with the money I got, & what I want in my old truck, a 390 CI or overboard 390 will make all the power I need. I just want it as a driver. Dont get me wrong, I have a truck that is more radical to satisfy the race itch I have. I like to mud run but I run a 460 based 502 in that one.
Always do oiling mods to block and restrict oil to rocker arms and a Melling 57b pump(70 psi), plus a windage tray between pan and block
Sound ideas!
Stock pump is just fine for a street engine. Oil restrictors in the heads are a good idea. That and an extra quart of oil.
Headed to machine shop now. Of course building a 390 for one of my ‘66 trucks. I am now doing a FE experiment 390 just to see what I can do for very low rpm power along with MPG. Will soon see how that turns out. Machine work should be done in next couple weeks. Waiting on the custom cam and custom pistons.
FE & MPG usually not mentioned in same sentence! LOL! I do currently have a '66 F100 Ranger 352 that is bone stock and gets 22+ MPG but a very rare combination from factory. Per the Ranger Registry only 2 1966 trucks were so equipped.
You are a great wealth of knowledge dude, I would be curious to see what you'd spec for a 390.
@@AutoRestoMod 100% depends on application.
I just picked up a 71 F250 chassis that was still wired to run and drive with a rebuilt 1964 390 and C6. The difference between it and my 69 390 that's in my highboy are night and day. I don't know what cam the 1964 engine has but it has a performer 390 and C4ae-G heads. Bought for $750 and sold the trans for $400. It will be eventually going in my highboy.
Nice 👍🏽😎 very well done ✅
Thank you! Cheers!
Replace distributor gear drive pin from the one Ford used. Stock oil pan add 1 qt extra oil. No SA roller timing chain setups. Just me 2 cents.
great video
More from Survival Motorsports. I worked in the Phoenix division of Federal Mogul while he worked at the Southfield Michigan division. Barry handled all the high performance Questions until things got so busy that they decided to have people working until 6:00PM California time. I was given the later hours. Barry had all the blueprints for every item we made, and I had a limited amount of info available to me. So if I couldn’t answer a customers Questions I would take a message for Barry and have him call the customer back 8n the morning. After Federal Mogul closed that position Barry Opened his own FE engine shop. He has entered several Engine Masters competition, and he is THE MAN when it comes to FE engines. He’s a great guy to talk to and I can’t say enough about him. So, if your building an FE engine visit his website and call him for any questions along with the best parts available for your engine. So, more FE builds with Barry!
Molina also has stuff for AMC that no one else does. Check with them along with BullTear for some great AMC parts!
Glad to see this!
That is the truth! I got my parts for my 394 straight from the HP jobber working with Barry directly!
Barry is a good friend and if he can’t help you he doesn’t BS you. A great guy, I called him for a set of. E261 .060 over 390 for L2292Fs and a set of Spirolox for them they were at my door in two days.
You should check performance ignition distributor. It's an amazing piece of technology. I installed it in my fe 360, what a difference.
Sorry PROGRESSION IGNITION.
@@tylerbingham855 I have that on my 445. I love it!
I would highly recommend cutting your rod caps and re-sizing if you plan to use ARP's. Usually ARP bolts and studs apply a greater force at their torque spec which pully the big-end bore out of round.
Great tip thank you
A lot of good info. I have wanted a set of his aluminum heads for a while for the Torino engine.
Good stuff and a great guy to work with. Definitely a great product too.
Can also use a 361 FT block, its the same bore with a shorter throw crank. Their high performance pistons will work in a 300 cid inline 6 if you hot rod one of those. A sonic check of the earlier 390 blocks may give you one that can go out to 406 cid or with a 410 Mercury crank reach near the 428 CJ. As for the heads, once you do a valve job and put in hardened seats...check that price to aftermarket.
As for a budget build, if you have no core engine to begin with...consider a roller 351W from the junkyard with GT40P heads from an Explorer, or a 400M. Less weight in the nose (not a concern on a truck, but if you're doing a car...) so you're dealing with power-output-to-engine-weight. Or if a big block is the only star in your eyes, check out 460.com. You can make great towing power on gas pump compression levels simply due to a larger displacement
Thanks for the heads up!
@@AutoRestoMod i like to think of work done on the FE/FT engine line to be like those who work on Chevy's W engines...tho Ford had an MEL line of engines that had the same combustion chamber design of the W engine (ie, no combustion chamber in the head, its all in the dish of the piston so more work is done moving the piston than trying to lift the head-a great idea) and these engines deserve a closer look of their own.
Love the build sheet on the 390 FE, Gave the video a 👍 But not a fan of the FE unless it's the 390 in my 1972 Camper Special 😎
Also can you a Build Tips video on the 351 Windsor! Just loved all of the Windsor's I've built back in the day 😎 Including a 1971 351 Windsor Street Boss!
It's coming. We are working with the engine builder for that and a 385 series.
Great video
Thanks!
Love it got a 390 in my galaxy that I'm working on
Glad we could help.
FE = F#cking Expensive... IF you want more than a budget build. A 460 BBF if you want power, and want to change your plugs in less than an hour. whoo-hoo!!!
LOL, I like all of them for different reasons. I can't love one of my babies less than the other....
I like the 390 but I like the 428 Super Cobra Jet better and I have one in mind very rare
Barry bike my 445 FE. The only difference was a little milder .560 lift and 224/230 @.050. my numbers on the Dyno were 505/554. And you're about right on with the cost... FE= F***ING EXPENSIVE!
Power nation built a FE around 10k in parts and pushed 600hp
Yep.
I remember that one and it would run on 91-93 pump gas. I know that they weren’t even pushing the timing.
The street 390 sounds sweet. 375HP is nothing to sneeze at. So are you thinking of putting one in the F-100 or the Galaxy? The Galaxy with the 390 and the top loader would be a great combo... 😁
Galaxie might be the way we go. If I do anything in the truck it will be going to a 385 series.
@@AutoRestoMod A 460 would be cool in the truck...
A 460? They are so heavy without aluminum heads. They need a bigger cam too. The early ones 68-71 are pingers on pump gas. 72 avoid at all costs, but a 73 up with a decent cam are good. I still want a 410-445 though.
$7,000.00 For 360 h.p. , guess it depends on what you want, seems like big investment for small return.
But, it is a nice combo.
It does sound pricey and my small block chevy costs less and makes very similar tq/ hp. I love all cars and most trucks. I prefer Ford trucks.
The FE is in a group all its own.
Small return? Hardly. Mine I built in 1999, makes over 425 hp and had gone for over 30 years since plus the years before. I don’t know.
As a FYI, 428CJ & SCJ heads are exactly same, C8OE-N. Only real difference was the balance due to heavier SCJ rods(borrowed from NASCAR 427), oil cooler and cars were equipped with 3.91 or 4.30 rear gears(Drag Pack). About every 428CJ racer I've talked with said the heavy rods cost approx a tenth in quarter. Will the old Ass-O-Meter tell you difference on street? Didn't for me.
LOL Old Ass O-meter...I have one of those.
And the scj crank was actually the weak point of the motors. I'd take a cj over the scj.
In your mind , is the 390 the best motor to build for power and durability ? ❤
From a cost and availability perspective, sadly, the 351 Windsor is a better engine to build. Particularly the 95 to 97, which has a roller cam and the availability of overdrive transmissions. To directly answer your question I think that any of the fees can provide a good base. The advantage in the 390 is that you can overboard it more than you can say a 428.
My favorite FE was the 410
That was a Mercury only engine. Knew someone who had one in a 1965 Mercury station wagon.
Its cool and all but a 428 makes more sence.
MERC!
@@et76039 That guy must've dropped the 410 in that wagon. 410s came in 66 and 67 Mercury cars ONLY.
@@gierhead66 , good catch. The car is long gone, so I can't verify anything at this point. And you get the point for being on the ball.
I like Motorhead 👍
Me too!
Why am I watching this? I don't have a spare dime to my name to build an engine or to buy a car to put it into. lol
Cause you are a hero for helping us get dem views!
I have read nearly every reply in the comments, and it seems that one issue has not been commented on that prevents
any of these amazing 60-70 year old+ Ford FE engines from easily performing as the HP(High Performance) versions that
were produced for nearly every FE model cubic inch displacement that was manufactured by Ford. Those HP engines had 11, 11.5, 12 to 1 factory compression ratios. Todays gas pump cat urine fuel prevents some fairly easy perfomance gains from original iron components, and maybe requiring piston and rod upgrades to handle the extra horses depending on how hard it is run. I am having a 1964 427 FE stroker built with modern hard parts for the rotating assembly and premiumI am going to have to settle for on todays available pump gas. Makes me sad.
Agreed, gas aint what it used to be. Good luck with the 427 hope she runs like a scalded ape
Anyone ever try the non-Edelbrock aluminum single carb intake manifolds out there in the $350 price range? TSP seems to be one of the companies, if that helps.
I would like to see someone to build a twin turbo 390 or 428
The 66-67 fairlane was no match for the 389 3x2 gto of the same era. Sounds like this might have been the cure
bull!I was there, putting standard trans in GTA'sBut I had tricks,ever heard of drillpipe?
@@duccanard9079 saw several comparos in rod mags and on the street tooo. Out of the box stock
@@tombob671 all library no life?
ate 440 6 paks with 302;s,killed 383;s with351 windsors, built 402's and forgot fuel push rods, and you read?
@@duccanard9079 age 73, got life I remember stock no mods GT ran 15.9, GTO ran in the 14s. I am a Ford guy, but stock off the show room floor it was what it was. And I had a 68 390Cougar. The 390 is a torque monster.
Ahhhh the sweet sounds of car guys arguing. LOL
The Compcam H.E. 260 H: RPM Range 1200-5200 212/212 @0.050 LSA 110 deg. Lift:.484/.484 P/N: 33-222-3
Thanks!
I only use clevite 77 bearings.
There are lots of pros and cons on all fronts for parts. Some folks won't use cam A because they have had failure issues...I'm like that too. I don't use Edelbrock carbs, do they suck? No. But I don't know how to get a poor mans tune from one like I do an Holley.
@@AutoRestoMod yeah I can work on a Holley as well. But if you take the top off an Edlbrock carb. Springs and check ball go everywhere. Lol
Ford-Edsel
Yes.
I cant decide.....I am contemplating a final build....445ci fe with aluminum heads on fuel injection.....$15k or a summit 460/540ci on fuel injection..... $16-$17k for a 73 f250 on super duty axles....
These are ponderous decisions.
The 445 is a good engine. It can be a really torquey engine. If you have a 428 a 4.25 bore is a lot of fun too.
@@fenatic7484 i went with a stock bore aluminum heads. Full roller. Waiting on fuel injection.
Are the f e blocks all the same ?352,390 ….
352,360,390 are same block. 427 is different and 428 is again different from the others but the rotating assemblies interchange into all 3 blocks. 427 and 428 blocks are harder to find and usually more expensive.
AT 6000 RPM, CFM IS 677.08
Good info
FYI: I weighed a bare FE 4V cast iron intake at 75 pounds. Compared it to a brand new bare Edelbrock aluminum intake I had and it was 25 pounds. 1/3 the weight!!!!
I thought they were 98 pounds. Man, I need to start working out again.
Get help, or get a chiropractor.
I weighed a CJ and a 390 2V off of a 69 and they each weighed 84+ I think the later ones had more iron in them. The 69 2V I had was the premium fuel IP engine and it was a taller intake than other 2V s I have had. It was a bigger Venturi 2100 cab too. 1.33 I think it has been many years!
Just out of curiosity, why does Clegg Engine call their Scat stroker kit a 444 and here you call it a 445. I'm going with one of those kits for my 390. Believe me, I don't want to be the idiot calling my motor the wrong thing. I mean imagine if you had a big block Chevy 454 and called it a 453 or a 455. You see what I mean? I understand that cylinder head volume and deck height and piston dish/dome volume and head gasket thickness all go with bore and stroke to equal cubic inch displacement , but let's hear from all of you RUclips/ internet experts, seriously, what should I call it to meet YOUR approval? 444 or 445?
Will it worry you to know that a 351 is really a 350? I'd call it whatever the manufacturer calls it.
I got a 428 SCJ in a Cougar that over heats. The radiator is new. The engine was just rebuilt and runs perfect. Any idea why it over heats?
I might would look at the timing first. Then check your plugs to see what they are reading. You'll want to check a chart out on the internet that shows the different types of plug reads. If it is running too, lean the engine will start to get hot. Also, on the Fe engines, overboard can be a real problem for thinning out the cylinder near the water jacket. That can create hot spots. If the engine is over .40 over that could also be an issue. But work on the timing thing first.
You would have to be out of your mind to pay that kind of money for a rebuilt 390 with stock rockers and a small camshaft . I bet for $15000.00 I could come up with a big CUBE Fe and around 600 hp with the parts that you could buy off the shelf today .
$15,000 is not using stock rockers or a small camshaft. The engine that used that was more like $6900.30 and was the basic build.
@@AutoRestoMod Give me $3000.00 and a decent 390 and I will give you 400 hp engine with gobs of low end torque . I may even do the oil system for free .
Seems like the other commenters know their fe engine so I have a question. I got a 330hd in a truck with a 14k pound empty weight. How do I get more power at cruise rpm (like 2500)without using high test gas.
Canton Pan. Balancing is NOT 1900.00. I have used Barry in the past and never again. I was charged Big $ for things that were not done. One of the rods had shavings under cap when machined so it was way off, machine work sloppy at best. All I can say is I am glad I went thru and checked all his work. Not to mention when he gives a timeline it becomes tomorrow, next week . . for 14,400.00 one can run circles around that engine all day long with a much much better and more reliable engine that will make more HP. Better driveability too not to mention 3x better MPG.
I paid $190 to have mine balanced. Not 1900
Sorry you had that experience.
I love my FE in my 71 f100 short bed. The motor is a unknown mileage motor that was in it when I bought it. It is a remanufactured motor I was told and a 390 but not verified. My question is what do I need to do to install fuel injection on it. It has the tank in the cab still. I know I need a return line but not sure what all is involved. I’ve seen a return tank under the hood offered but don’t know anything about it. Thanks for any help on easiest way to do it.
That's a really big question lol.. What kind of fuel injection do you want? Do you want direct port injection? Do you want throttle body injection? The directions you can go with this are almost endless.
got fe 360 with .030 going put 268h compa cam what be best heads to run mine is c6ae-u
Medium riser/390 GT heads are good, 428 CJ are good too but pricy.
I know this is about 390 but what do you think about a 429 out of a f800 ..found one with a 5 speed trans I'm thinking of getting and putting into my 71 f350 I just bought..
I have had a truck 390 that im putting in my 71 mustang coup that i wasnt sure where to start,thanks
Glad we could help!
Truck 390,s used 410 pistons and there down in the hole low compression.
14k? You can get gen2 coyote with 6r80 for 6500... I was wanting to rebuild our motor cus its leaking oil but damn thats too much.
Yes, but that is also a high end rebuild. YOu can land somewhere in between. We'll be doing a video on the conversion cost of a Coyote here in the next couple of weeks.
You mentioned that the original intake flows pretty well. Is it about the same as the Edlebrock performer? How much horsepower increase could I expect from the performer RPM or blue thunder CJ?
The stock intake does flow well, it is just heavy at 97ish pounds. The Performer and Victor are good choices depending on what you are doing. I'd consult the engine builder or Edlebrock directly.
@@AutoRestoMod So it’s a stock engine S code 67 mustang. I’m trying to decide other than the weight if I should keep the stock manifold? Is there any benefit to upgrading it to the Performer RPM? I plan on keeping the Holley 4150 and original air cleaner. What would you do with a S code mustang?
390 has rail rockers [no sled fulcrums] it is not possible for the damper to come past the pulley on the fe engine ditch the stock intake way too heavy alum. intakes are plentyful on the used market i have bought 3 in the last 2 years [under 200 bucks] the edelbrock stuff is really good i have one 390 with that set-up never have seen the step you are speaking of ?
Have a 390 fe motor just got it back in new r&r now it’s mixing water with oil bent my push rod on one cylinder what happened what could it be
Sounds like a head gasket issue.
OK I'm a newbie, what's FE mean?
I have a 57 Ford that has a Fe and I have no idea what it is it's hooked up to a C6 automatic transmission but I know it's got the older engine in it because it's got the 64 and back mount how can I tell exactly what engine I do have
Are you looking for displacement info? We did a video on that: ruclips.net/video/cDm6-ieJWAk/видео.html
For the rest you'll have to go to the net and look up part number (cylinder heads, block, etc.)
Actually a Duraspark will run with a 4 pin GM module.
Did not know that!
Why a 260 HE?? 212@/050 is ridiculous for a 390 it is fine for a mild 289. Try a 270 Mag 224@.050 .530 lift, easy idle, plenty of vacuum. Do a gasket match port, clean the pockets, get a 3 angle valve job. add a Performer with a 1" spacer and a Holley 3310 (750) use the stock Ex manifolds but dual them with 2 1/2" pipes and viola.. 375 hp 450 ft lbs easily
Okee dokee!
Or go with the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam, 294 dur. and .572 lift with their heads which only have 209/166 valves and intake pkg which should give about 418 hp and 434 Torq. There are other brand heads out there comparatively priced that have 220/177 valves that have to flow even more air and probably make a few more hp. I agree with you, why waste $ under building, just do the research and build the whole package that will do what you want and you can afford.
@@davidkeeton6716 I like the edie heads but the cam and heads will set you back over $2000 and the duration will require a higher stall and will compromise vacuum. The comp 270 is a great boost but maintains rock steady idle/vacuum and the heads will cost you just some time and a 3> valve job. With about $500 more for larger valves and porting and a comp 280 magnum...still a good vacuum.. you are looking at 400 plus and 465 ft-lbs
Put a 270H in and put one of those rear installed turbo chargers under the cab and back up to a blow through bonnet and carb . Just a set of headers to a 2.5 2-1 cross over with a short pipe to the turbo and a 60 mm Wastegate and a 4 inch V band out under the bed . Mount it on the passenger side so your 4 inch open pipe does blow the constables window out. Good ring gap 410 at .020 over should make a nice daily driver with 625 hp , 10 lbs boost! Pulling the trailer up the mountains! 😂
@@fenatic7484 Ok, you said Constable so I am assuming you are one of those wacky Aussies? and, if so, with your people's love of strange hybrids, I am going to assume you meant TWO of the above combos, linked together with a common drive, one in the engine bay, one in the bed of the UTE ?? you are running away from the constable with;)
445 @6000RPM=772.56 CFM
His parts must be made out of gold
Or good.