Ford 390 Engine Rebuild - Part 2 - Budget 10:1 Build
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- Опубликовано: 15 дек 2019
- Walk through of the assembly procedure, parts, machining details, and costs associated with building a Ford 390 FE. Budget friendly OEM Ford parts to build a 10:1 compression ratio for big block.
Products used:
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nice rebuild, appreciate the attention to detail. I worked in Ford shops for 20 yrs . Love everything about the FE´s. ALWAYS used no hardening sealer on freeze plugs.Enjoyed watching your assembly, took me back to the seventies.
222²²²2²⅔2
Would you like to come to Atlanta and work on one?
Looking good. If you build an other FE, make sure you put the crank sleeve on first, then tighten the timing chain cover. The sleeve centers up the seal on the crank. Helps with premature wear on the front seat. Keep up the good work.
You beat me to it.
i had my heads done - cut seats , new s/s swirl polished valves , new high rev springs , bronze guides and viton seals , and surface , studs and special head gaskets ! ? THOUSANDS ! - but well worth it . did a bigger oil pump alloy sump with windage tray and sump baffels and upgraded pick-up !
Using those pistons from the 360 without a dish is worth about half a point of compression over the stock piston . Too many people think that Right Stuff is the answer for everything and I have seen too many engines that failed because some genius over did it and the screen was plugged with silicone . Cork and rubber type gaskets only work if you use them properly . Cement them to the block put a little oil on them so they expand after you use a little goop on each corner . Valve cover gaskets can be used over and over without leaks if you glue the gasket to the cover and not the head after coating the head side with a little oil . Everybody has their own way to do things and I know what works for me .
The 360 pistons are original 390 pistons. The 360 piston is simply the high compression pistons used in high compresion 390's.
Really informative video. Once again, you are doing an awesome job. Thanks for posting. I have been following this build from the beginning and I just want to say I appreciate you taking the time to show us and bring us along on your progress! I'm a big fan.
Excellent video and probably the best quality video on the tube out there! Love the calm and methodical voice of yours. I am doing a middle-way restoration of my F-250-73 with a 200 000 miles old 360 in it. Working on the assembly here these days. Seen so many videos of engine rebuilds and your´s really made me happy :) Mine was leaking about everywhere, only thing I done different is the intake manifold seal. Using black RTV only on the seal, cork seems to be a failure for the most ppl doing this....at least after some time. Well done my good sir :) Greetings from Norway!
Copper head gaskets . I love the old Ford Edsel Engines. Skirted block design. Nice video
This is an awesome build video. I really appreciate how you acutually showed each step. Thank you!
Great video dude, this build is awesome, I've been following it all. Keep up the good work bro
Nice vid...we built one about like this in 1980 for my ‘ 69 F100. Never could get enough traction!!
how much hp did it make ?
Great job mate,& you instructions are very clear,love to learn from your,Thanks
I'm really enjoying these videos, keep em coming!
Love the video, I am doing a 428 right now and the camshaft bearing part of the vid was super helpful. Keep up the cool stuff!!
How did it go?
great video. i love the look of the blue on the old FE engines. gonna do mine the same!
Hell ya
great cam selection!
I think I would put old school points distributor back in it. I just like the look of the smaller cap. And when you got that round coil can off to side just gives that old nostalgic hot rod look. Lol. But any way looks like it's coming together nicely.
$2300 for what you got is a great deal my friend. That was a hell of truck when it was new. I had over 300,000 miles on mine when I sold it and it still looked and ran great! I wish I had it back...
300K would be pretty crazy to see on one of these old trucks!
@@330_garage3 I was a traveling salesman for a tool company it didn't take too many years to rack up that kind of mileage. That 390 is almost bulletproof. The secret is to keep that engine wet. Regular maintenance on everything that uses fluids. Good luck with your truck. She's a winner!
Great video for us Ford guys 👍🏻🦅🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Excellent video!
Hi..iv been watching and I must say you have done a very Conscientious and thoughtful job...when you get used to it and are looking for a little more a alloy long runner intake will really help very very much..good luck
A little info for you ,the PVC valve actually goes in the top of the filler cap for the oil it uses a filler cap on both sides and the PVC goes in the one toward the rear of the engine leaving the one in the front to fill with you shouldn’t have to use that RTV to cover those slots meant for the filler cap hope this info was helpful on your great build enjoyed watching you work looks really good
Excellent! Thank you for sharing!
Your the best ,u keep it simple
I had the same issues that your having back in 80’s. I bought a 4 barrel intake to replace the two barrel one. I had to get a riser for the carb, rework the throttle linkage and I replaced the factory air filter with a chrome one. I had such bad luck with it all I ended up putting the two barrel setup back on it. I never really got a noticeable power boost out of that 4 barrel anyway.
West Texan yup your right the 390 2 barrels come on the ford thunderbird
And the four barrel come on the Ford Mustang gt 390 the intake ports don’t line up everyone thinks it’s interchangeable
You're alive! Nice job. Can't wait to see that thing shiny and new in the engine bay! I watched a pro engine builder say that you should always replace the stock oil pump driveshaft with a new one from ARP. The stock shafts he says are notorious for breaking on the FEs.
That video took me forever to edit. I read similar posts... guys talking about the ARP oil pump rod.. I didn't go with a high volume pump.. so I figured the original one lasted 50k.. it was proven well enough.
330_Garage yeah most likely fine. That’s all that thing had on it 50k!?. I was happy to see you included the cost break down. I was very interested to see how much it was going to set you back. I’ve got pretty much the same truck, same year, same color and I’ve got the 360 - a bit underwhelming as you know. I’m trying to decide if I should tackle the project as you did or get a turn-key 390 online.
PVC valve mounts into a PVC twist in holder for the valve cover. You had one at the back of the valve cover on the passenger side when you worked on the engine in the field. I remember seeing it with the hose going to the nipple at back of the original carb. That new rubber grommet is made to fit the hole in the PVC rocker cover screw in cap. They are available in chrome if you want some shine. Don,t install the grommet in the valve cover with gasket sealer that,s a Bubba move.
Awesome videos. There isn’t to many good videos on the old FE stuff.
FYI when using those multi layer steel gaskets your deck and head surface has to be finished extremely smooth almost polished otherwise they can fail. Look into it. If you have issues in the future throw a felpro composite one on there.
i think its amazing you were able to get used pistons.
You did great job on engine it’s really nice
Thank you! I was really pleased with how it turned out for the money
Love this build man! Engine looks great!
I agree with Zachpeterson the block should have been decked to get a good seal.
Awesome vid brotha
Rob the engine looks amazing! Wow!
Buy the correct oil fill cap you can get them with the hole on top and they are only a few bucks
the four hundred you spent on the heads is the best money you spent
I had the same issues building a 445 FE stroker with the middle cam bearing. Wound up getting it stuck and the cam jumped out and busted a lobe off the new cam, despite TWO people holding onto it trying to prevent that. Lesson learned there. The bearings were sealed power bearings. Spent a couple hours trying to make that bearing fit, wasn't going to work, way too tight.Wound up using a set of Durabond which is a 1 piece bearing vs the sealed power has a seam. Those fit PERFECT.
wow! sounds like it was really jammed in there!
@@330_garage3 Yeah, it spun in the third bearing easily about half way then got mega stuck. At least I have a Comp cams 294S to make a lamp out of now. LOL!
You can replace the Phillips head cam retainer plate bolts with socket head cap screws that feature an internal hex. These are much easier to torque & later remove. Also, in case you miss it when getting the engine running, the part to fit the PCV valve into the valve cover is on the end of the hose attached to the original carb spacer plate (1:02:30mark in the video). The new grommet & newer type PCV valve should fit into the top of the breather housing so that you can use regular 3/8" fuel hose to connect it to the carb base plate.
You need the original cap for that valve cover...the pcv grommet attaches to it and then install the pcv valve. Original cap has a twist lock.
I had the same issues with the middle cam bearing building a 445 FE. Mine got stuck and once I finally got it unstuck it jumped and chipped a lobe. With two people hanging onto it trying to prevent that. I used sealed power bearings the first time. Used Durabond bearings the second time and those were much higher quality and fit perfect. Seems to be a common problem with the cheaper bearings. I now have a brand new camshaft to make a lamp out of at least...LOL
hahah ouch! thats an expensive lamp with a brand new cam. Talking to the guys at the machine shop they say that cam bore alignment is a super common issue with the FEs. They recommended that I line hone it.. but I saw the old cam come out, and it was spinning just fine. Turns out maybe I should have done that...
@ 28:30 save the old cam shaft . If this occurs grab a file and file cut a notch on the old cam . Use it to ream out the tight cam bearing .
The hole that you are using for pcv is the oil fill you will have to make a different hole for the pcv grommet
Nice job friend. Got your spacer for raising the carb. I suppose.
I wish you good luck to fix the engine.
Never never use the cork seals! Big bead of Right Stuff!
You need a bayonet fit PCV cap for that PCV. get one of those and the PCV will push into that and it will be sealed properly.
How did you learn all of this it’s killer. I scored a F250 68 to fix up with my son. Thanks for the content.
Got 3 of them.2 69 s,1 71.Fathers 69 Ranger,special order,power nothing,360,3rd timing chain,436K,Working with grandson on it.69 Ranger,Custom cab,camper special.Getting AOD,404(file not found)390,roller/roller.71,un-rebuilt 390,electronic ignition,headers,500 holley.winch and a hoist.
But my daily driver is a 62 Ranchero with a 200,weber,headers,t5,8" and NOS.Yes,I'm in my 60's and slowing down some.
hahah that doesn't sound like slowing down!
Always have. Number one on topdead compression when you put in distributor set time at 2 degree advanced on non stock cam at timing gear.another carb spacer
There is a proper grommet that goes into those twist-turn oil cap holes for a PCV valve. They are reproduced, kinda tough to find. I have one i can take a picture of if you want. Pertronix Mr Ignitor in a stock style rebuilt distributor would not only look better, take up less space, and function just as good if not better. Normally I drop in the distributor before putting the front cover on so i can check drive shaft engagement. Also to ensure that there is at least .040 up and down freeplay when drive shaft is into the distributor when using a non-stock distributor or shaft or oil pump has been changed. Make sure you secure that copper line in many places. Copper is fine but constant vibration will cause it to weaken in spots, causing cracks or failure. Why its highly recommended to use mild steel(aluminized) or stainless steel for hard line. Also like you, I use Permatex #2 on all my soft plugs, definitely cheap insurance. I don't used RTV on anything. Rather 3M Super Weatherstrip is my #1 choice on gaskets. Stuff is fantastic. Otherwise, awesome job! You obviously take your time and are very thorough. I cringed when i saw you were using the steel shim head gaskets. Usually you gotta douse them in adhesive spray and even then, that's never a guarantee they wont leak. But anyways, can't wait to hear it run! Great job!
Excellent suggestions. I just looked and it looks like they do make a 390 specific grommet. Scott Drake Valve Cover Grommets C7AZ-6892. I was enticed by the low cost of the HEI distributor, seems like it maybe a little more of a pain for the low price, so I may go back with a pertronix in the stock setup. That HEI also requires HEI specific plug wires. The next video I am working on... you will see those aluminum gaskets leaked like crazy, which I didn't figure out until I got the motor back in the truck and went to put coolant in it.
@@330_garage3 bingo! Yep that's the grommet. They are unique. As for the head gasket, the std. Felpro might only cause a loss of .25-.5 of Compression, still more than enough for the 270 cam. I'd you had a 280 or larger then it would be of concern. The 270 doesn't have a ton of overlap so you might have avoided an issue with detonation on pump gas anyways. There's a guy, Wes Adams I believe, that is a wizard at recurving the stock Ford distributors to run like a dream with aftermarket cams. He also rebuilds them too. Does fantastic work. But really, they are not too difficult to figure out yourself if you wanted to fool with them. I run stock ones with Pertronix units on everything. They work great and look great. Also usually step up to a higher voltage coil with them, no problem. Only thing I do add is an adjustable vacuum advance unit Std Ign p/n VC-31. Typically the stock rebuilt/reman distributors advance too far and are not adjustable.
Nice setup.. I’m just started taking apart my 390 thinking about doing something Similar to yours mabe same cam setup..just wondering how did that build hold up..any tips or pointers would really help thanks
54:37 on the cork gasket in the front there is a hole in it. Did you grind down the plug on the engine that goes in that hole?
Whenever they put new guides in any head they have to put new seats in to keep them concentric. What is that red stuff in your chambers??? Is that a heat coating???
i check stroke on my fe top of piston to top of block is 3 3/4 in is it 390 bds
if i put 390 crank and rod in 360 do i have to stroke bore block
Check the little oil tally plug in the distributor hole ?
I need some help bad I need to replace my cam because a lobe wore down and a lifter fell through
how can I pull the center crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt to pull the timing cover and timing chain with the engine in the car? Seriously thank you
Have you published a complete parts list?
First off, love watching the channel. I’m currently rebuilding a f100 as well and always refer back to your videos. Question is how did that pcv work out for you? Thinking of doing mine the same way but with the Scott Drake grommet. Also, what did you do on your driver side valve cover? Mine has another pcv piped into the air cleaner
Thanks! Glad this is helping you guys out. My driver side valve cover only had the oil fill hole in it. But I believe from the factory it had the same oil bath cleaner/oil-fill piped to the air cleaner, in that hole, and someone just put a oil fill cap in there. Some other people in the comments section had mentioned that Scott Drake grommet for that Ford FE valve cover hole. Should be this one here:
amzn.to/2J6htar
I would use that grommet next time with the same PCV valve, I had great luck with that PCV valve.
Really good videos but I need help to find the timing chain cover bolt’s if you can help me we’re to find it I will appreciate
RTV under cork, NO! The cork will often slip on that sealer. Cork is best with weatherstrip adhesive or other hardening adhesive, or nothing. Even better is to use the RTV only and don’t burn engine for 24 hours to let the thicker RTV bead cure.
If you watch closely.. thats exactly what happened! Cork slid right out. Weatherstrip adhesive is actually a really good idea
I always used non hardening sealant on All gaskets on corvair engines Never had a leak
I see a constant debate on this, some guys say non hardening is the way to go, other guys say they have problems
I'm surprised you didn't use that oil fill cap. There's a grommet in there where your pcv valve slips in. It would be a really good idea to have that extra area in the cap to reduce oil passage. Everything else looks great! Make sure to use anti-seize on the upper exhaust manifold/header bolts. Ask me how I know? I still need to pull mine out of the engine bay because when the exhaust manifold gaskets started leaking, I broke 4 of the 8 upper bolts trying to get them out! I was in too much of a hurry to get it running way back in 1993 and didn't use anti-seize.
An after thought. Does that cam have advance built in? Some do.
1. You should have measured the distance between block outer edge to the oil pick up screen drop to ensure its not flat on the bottom of oil pan. The oil pick up tube could get bent or from the factory or by shipping or getting moved around during rebuild . Have experience poor oil pressure on start up. PS hook up an oil pressure gauge on start.
2. I would never install the intake manifold before the push rods, if somethings happens and you put in a rod and lift it and the hydraulic lifter gets stuck on the falls in the valley , you would have to remove manifold. Secondly whether you have individual of a rocker arm assembly. You should always install push rods and have cylinder on compress stoke, and its easier to see lifter down in a recess position so you can against rocker arm. I see you have a rocker assembly ,buts its good to follow that procedure , first push rod , then manifold.
The pushrods go thru the intake on the 390 FE so maybe for a test fit just to check the pushrod lengths are correct but in the end you will have to put them in after the intake
I always cut the nipples off the end of the front and back intake gaskets.... just a good amount of silicone in the corners and there's NO oil leakage from the intake...
Anyone know what lift that cam is? .514?? Also would it be smart to put adjustable rockers and different push rods? I am doing a similar build and that’s what the machine shop said I would have to do
.519.519 lift on the 270h.
Factory rockers and pushrods will work fine.
Should have used Right Stuff on the water ports and a dial torque wrench.
Are you repainting the truck and if so what color could we expect? Videos are very informative and have enjoyed watching.
I was planning to keep the original patina color, but clean it up with CLR and a scotch-brite, the clear coat the whole truck to prevent and more rust. I will definitely make a video when I attempt that.
Man.. FE and "budget" are two words that dont go together! I spent waaay too much on mine!
No joke!, guys say FE stands for "freaking expensive" after this project I see why
You're always better off with a new manifold. like one from Summit.
Do the rods assembly lock to cap or opposite?
Were the block's cam and main jornals line honed? If not that is your issue. Remember ford didnt care so much in the casting process and these engines were mass produced. My 300 6 had so many poor casting flaws that need corrected before putting it back together. That cam journal is probably slightly egg shaped which caused the bearing take the same shape.
No the journals were not honed... I figured it ran for 50K miles it was ok. Looks like Ford just cranked these things out and let the cam do the clearance work on the bearings and hope for the best....
When converting a 360 to 390 is it common to get away with not having to bore the cylinders? Obviously if there's scoring it would be required...but I'm just wondering about a ridge being formed where the 360 stroke had stopped compared to where the 390 stroke will land. I know you said your engine was low mileage (50k), but can anyone else comment too...is it typical for the cylinder walls to be fine to stroke without some form of correction?
Any machine shop would have told you to bore that block I used. There was a small lip at the top and the cylinders were slightly out of round. I put new rings in it and ran it. You can see they dyno video i posted and driving the truck. It ran strong and didn't smoke. Your best bet is to have a machine shop measure your bores and make a decision
There's an engine stand!
Wondering how that comp cam has held up over the years; I've heard bad things about those.
I'm keeping my 360 in my 69' F100... I only found two vacuum ports. Do you know if there is more than two? Any web site or location to help me find the vacuum port options.
No, I had to add a vacuum tree to my intake manifold. Like this one from Classic Industries:
www.classicindustries.com/product/g7180.html
You can google Ford vacuum tree and find quite a few options.
Greetings! Can I ask you a question regarding a 1969 Ford Mustang with a 390 engine? We are repairing such an engine and cannot find the dimensions of the crankshaft and piston liners.
La primera parte?
did you use 390 pistons an rods
That is not a PCV hole, that is for the oil cap. Now some Ford's had a oil cap that has a provision for the PCV in the top. It looks like a breather cap with a hole in the top.
correct.. I did pull a breather out of that hole, but it was full of some mesh stuff that seemed to be falling into the oil pan.
What fuel pump did you use
Did you have any issues with clearance for the headers? I've heard some conflicting information. Some say it's easy some say you have to alter the motor mount on passenger side and that you'd have to remove header to replace starter etc. My motor is set to go into the machine shop and I'm shopping for headers.
No issues at all, those headers had great clearance, I was very happy with them. I can't remember if there was an issue with the starter, I think I only ran 2 of the 3 bolts for the starter, and it was fine. I would highly recommend those Headman headers, and also recommend using that Eastwood ceramic header paint. I was very impressed with both of those products.
@@330_garage3 awesome, do you happen to have a part number? I'd like to take a look at them.
U put a chevy grind cam in a FORD?
You didn't check the rocker arm length? I am rebuilding a 390 now and I am stuck at the non adjustable rocker arm measurement. I noticed you didn't do that. No block decking or head shaving I guess?
Yeah they decked the heads .010 just to square them up. Did not deck the block. Unless you are running some monster cam, or running a really high compression flat top piston with .0001 deck clearance, the stock valve train will perform just fine without interference. The 360 V4 pistons I used had a valve relief as well. If I were you I would use some playdoh stuck to the top of the piston. Install the head without a head gasket (loosely snug the bolts) and assemble the valve train for 1 cylinder. Roll the engine over. Remove the head and check your valve to piston clearance. Keep in mind that you will also add in the compressed head gasket thickness to this clearance number with final assembly.
I'm rebuilding my 390 as well. How is yours holding up? What brand bearings did you use? I wound up with Clevite bearings and sealed power rings.
Nice, I used the same stuff. I actually finished the engine, took it to the dyno, etc. I took it out and sold it, but its in another F100 and still running well!
@@330_garage3 nice!!! We finished up ours and put it back in my 75 f100. She's running great with 75
PSI oil pressure cold and never drops below 25 when hot (HV pump)
did you plasti gauge the rod bearings?
How do you know that's 10:1 compression
Hi Buddy and greetings from the UK. Can you tell me what distributor you used and how is it holding up. Thanks.
Sure - here's a link to the distributor I bought. Best value I could find.
amzn.to/3h5FfhN
Seems to be holding up great, and throws out a really hot spark. Cold starts, and throttle response was never an issue.
@@330_garage3 Hi. Many thanks for the reply. I have a Sniper system on the 390 in my 75 F-250 and the "Hall Effect" sensor in the distributor has failed, not great considering it's only two years old. I'm contemplating on going back to a Carb setup. Thanks for the info and the great content. Keep up the good work.
Did you use a break in lube on the cam and lifters during assembly - or just engine oil?
I used COMP cams cam break in oil additive. I actually always use a bottle when I change the oil in the truck to add zinc back to the oil
@@330_garage3 what pushrods did you use...the factory ones?
@@330_garage3 im asking because im building the same setup with the same camshaft
wanting change cam in my fe 390 want go bigger but want to use stock valve train with flat tapp lifter what size you recommend
I would seriously look at that Comp 270H cam that I used in this video. You will have to change springs, but it would be a good idea to change valve seals anyway. Its not a ton of work to change springs, and it works great with the stock valve train. That cam had a good bumpy idle, and great low end power for a street cruiser
@@330_garage3 did you have do anything to the heads to change springs
@@brianfrancis2862 I did have the machine shop check the valve stem height based on the cam specs. To ensure the higher lift cam wouldn't crash the rocker arms into the valve seals. With the lower profile COMP retainers, and COMP springs they didn't need to make any adjustment.
@@330_garage3 what size springs
@@brianfrancis2862 I used the COMP Cams kit: www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k33-226-4?rrec=true.
The kit came with a dual spring setup, but I don't remember the part number.
really nice build, not too criticize, there were a couple of MINOR things that stood out to me.
that PCV grommet was way too small.
the distributor you got seems way too high, with a shorter one you would not have the air cleaner issues.
Nice..but...never build a Oil Slinger with Double Roller Cam..won´t fit most Timing covers
Installing the cam bearings at 9 o’clock will allow too much oil bleed off!! The cam bearings should always be installed at 6 o’clock or the down position!! Remember!!! The crank gets oil after the cam bearings, so you don’t want the cam bearings to bleed off oil before the oil gets to the mains and rods!!
The cam bearings work well at 3 0clock. But in the casting of the block there is a groove under the bearing so no matter how you clock the bearing everything will still get oiled. The 6 0clock is how the factory dus it, but that's not the best way of doing it.
What octane did u run with this setup?
I just ran it on 93 and it ran great. No issues with detonation or anything. There are other videos on my channel of driving it around, taking it to the dyno etc.
ruclips.net/video/vctq3PhITMI/видео.html
Why such a longed shaft distributor.
Dennis Elder the FE engines have a tall intake above the top face of block where intake manifold sets. The distributor is taller from sealing/mount face to clear that. It is not as long as several v8s from housing to bottom.
I see your oil can is made by ford, nice
Thats an old Ford Model T oil can I got from my grandfather. The Model T used to have one of those mounted under the hood.
So cool! I will be looking for one myself.
Did you use the 360 heads on the 390 block
Yeah because they are flat top, higher compression
Sorry I misread your comment, I’m pretty sure he used 360 pistons
He used C8AE heads witch were originally used on 360's & 390's.
What headers are those?
Hedman Street Headers 89100
what machine shop did you go to ?
www.blainesmotorsupply.com Have used them before and had fantastic work with a quick turn around time
So what are you shooting for 335 hp ?
If it clears 300 wheel HP.. I will be super happy
@@330_garage3 You built a 68 Mustang GT engine. Bullitt would be proud.