Outstanding Video... Anybody thats ever done this prepwork to their "FE" engine when they go to sleep at night wonders how their 428 ever lived past 5500 rpm before.
This was one of your best videos to date. Stuff beginners, as well as guys with some builds under their belts can benefit from. Details make the difference between a long lasting build, and something that will need refreshed in a couple years. A lot of old time tricks shared this time. Building a house on a solid foundation. On another note, the Molnar connecting rods I ordered through You arrived today, in great condition. VERY nice pieces! Thank You again for getting them for me, a good price, and great service. Thanks again from Woodys Garage.
Thanks for all the information I broke a drill or 2 doing oil mods on the FEs did my 1st 390 in 1975. Found a receipt form Anderson auto parts in Greenville SC yesterday looking thru an old ford engine book receipt dated 2/14-1978 for MS 863p-10 $38.47 and CB 760p-10 $25 68. I googled those part numbers and summit still carries those but are a little more expensive. Been a FE man since high school 1973 got my 67 GT mustang 390 car no engine or trans cause that's all I could afford built my 1st drag car from it. Love your detail reminds me of someone I know. No way the boat anchor applies
Great video Brent. I learned the hard way, why you have to clean a block again , even after machine shop had cleaned it. This was 35 years ago, and the oil drain backs got clogged up with crap. Since then I always clean all oil galleys and everything else really well, even if machine shop cleaned it too.
Fantastic video, thanks for the quote on Rotating assembly here in the UK, I will need every single part supplying so looking to pull a kit together from you of all I need.
You should try Cerakote air dry for the paint. Also Cerakote makes a series called Microslick for pistons and engine internal parts that mitigates carbon buildup.
Brent I would definitely buy a DVD of your block prep that is the kind of thing that makes a difference, me being on the West Coast I could show a engine builder the DVD
this was one of the Best videos about how to prepare a block I have ever seen. I remembered I saw a video about a guy with a Dart small block chevy, who tapped the oil return in the lifter valley, then the valley flooded and the oil went in the intake port. In this case with the FE block, Will this not happend because the restrictor in lifter galery? or is because the oil drain in the End of the block in FE are better Than the SBC?
Not to tell u ur business if course but I started years ago using aluminum recessed square drive pipe plugs for race car engines in the frist plug holes on 302 Fords. Dick Trickle told me way back when that it stiffened up the block walls in his 351C motors. Yes I'm 63 yrs old and been around to long vut it has never let me down even with the inevitable times when things get a little warmer than they should and pressures get a bit high in the cooling system. I was a Senior Master ASE for many years and tried to live by the idea that every day is a school day and appreciate u sharing your aquired knowledge with me as well. Thank u!
Great video! I've got a 390 from a 66 T-bird in the floor of my shop that I hope to one day make a 445 out of. I have a 65 F100 that it would go in. I have two 66 F100's with the 352 V8's. One of them has 31k original miles and the other is worn out with mix matched heads. Love the FE's and really enjoy your channel!
Really liked this video it answered several questions I had on block prep one question would be what do you use to wash the block, we are ready to start assembling our 445 Thanks
I'm pretty sure I did all these mods and a few more not mentioned here. Involving a 7/16 drill bit 24 inches long. I have a 1970 thick block from a truck 360. I sonic tested the block and mapped it for core shift observation. It's a nice block. I had 7 I went through till I found this one I selected. I hope everyone finds all those hidden ponies in their FE!
Blocks are subject to core shift, even in oil galleries. I do not open up any of them at all. In addition, you can open up the galleries, but you can't do anything at all to the choke points, where the oil has to turn 90° multiple times deep in the block.
A great video 100%. I will be doing exactly this process to my D3TE block. Explaining in detail the minimalist approach to oil modifications is very helpful. #oilmods Is there any benefit to doing all of this prior to the machine shop boring and decking the block? Or just deburr everything afterwards?
Good episode. Been fooling with motors including FE's since these were brand new production pieces. Agree with all you have shown. But wonder why brass freeze plugs and steel block drain plug ... I'd use brass wherever water touches metal. Also the front main gallery plug, I'd use brass because I'd drill it 0.045" as an oil squirter onto the timing chain/sprocket. Your enhanced valley drains will help. But, because most blocks are inclined back toward the firewall on installation, there may not be enough oil to keep that chain wet ... A wet chain is a happy chain and it will extend the life of the chain greatly and allow it to not "stretch" over time, keeping the timing more consistent for much longer 😊
Chain gets a ton of splash. I’ve never used anything that puts more oil on the chain. Never an issue. Parts are better quality than they were decades ago. As for steel plug, the plug is easily removed and changed. Freeze plugs are not. In addition, the fastener kits that come for these engines with original style fasteners all have steel plugs to look period correct.
Brent what size drill do you use for a hydraulic flat tap cam in the 1/8 NPT pipe plug in off shoots for cam I also have bronze lifter bore guides 390 block . I am also going to put the hose end and plug the drain backs like you did really enjoy your FE builds . You did a 390 for a friend of mine in Massachusetts for a wagon totally impressed by the performance of that motor !
Can you explain how you weight match rods and pistons to balance everything without grinding on anything? All of the videos I’ve seen say to find the lightest piston and remove material from the others to match. Then do the same on the small side of the rods. Then do the same on the large side of the rods. If you have another video to link to that would be great too.
Seen you on Drag Boss Garage like Ford content I've had alot of Ford Engines in my life time, good tips on block preparation been thinking about rebuilding my 428 CJ FE lately the question I have is have you ever Drilled the Oil hole out to a Bigger diameter from filter to pump ?? I seen it in an article years back for more oil flow wondered if you ever done anything like that ?? Keep up the good work
Brett, I have a question when it comes to building a clevor. I'm using an aluminum cleveland head on a f4te block and have a question on the coolant passage modification to the block
You know Walmart sells Gun barrel flash light which are outstanding for using for all those tight oil galley holes and tight window spots, there in the shotgun and shell area 😊
Great information and share. What are your thoughts on restricting oil flow to the heads by restricting the oil galleries in the block instead of the heads?
I'd rather restrict in a spot where it's easy to get to. If you ever change setups or decide you need more/less oil, you have to pull the heads if you do it in the block.
Some good insight here. Got a little problem I'm hoping somebody can help me with. During a move I misplaced my crank bearing caps. Ive torn everything apart 3 times trying to find them after the move. What do I do now?
Would love to see fe pulling engine builds im setting up to try to figure ou my frist ever build its 1969 f250 with 390fe 4 speed dully rear end its an old wrecker
Interesting that block has a repair. The 390 block we used for my dads 445 stroker came from a 1 owner untouched 68 LTD (we had the car) and we found the lower rear gallery plug on the back of the block had been repaired in that manner also. Looks like it either had a casting defect or it broke the bottom portion of the block/threads when they tightened the plug down the first time.
I see it quite often, even on aftermarket blocks. You can't just scrap an entire block because of a little defect, so it's usually repaired right there on the spot.
Many years ago when working on FE blocks most drag drag racers would modify the main bearing caps by relieving about 1/2 inch, of the bearings 0.010 to 0.015 inch to stop the "pinching" of the bearings on the crankshaft when they bolted down the main caps. Do they still do this ???
I have question about oil drain back. In the front of the block there is a larger hole that would allow oil to drain back in the timing cover but only on one side becouse the dist is on the other side. But that one larger hole is alil high. Do u see a problem with drilling another hole through the front of the block just under & alil bit to the side of the larger hole? So it is level with the valley in the lifter valley. To allow oil to drain back easier? So the lifter valley would not hold as much oil. I saw someone do this & I did this to my last 390 & I haven't had any negative effects so far? Still running strong. The reason I ask is becouse I never see anyone else doing this? Yes it is useless under hard throttle but it would help drain oil when slowing down?
@@lykinsmotorsports hmm 🤔. Must be the final grit stone. 20 years as a machine shop owner, I retired. I used a CV-616, finished with a JHU-623, plateau finish nylon bristles brush (cv type), then pressure jet wash , brush out oil galleys and rinse, WD40 coat and wipe clean. Ready for assembly. Done! OBTW nice videos. Takes a lot of time editing. Thanks!
Great information!! I’m now more educated on the FE engines😁 What’s your opinion on stainless freeze plugs?? I seen a sheet metal tunnel ram near the Dyno mule!! That also for an FE??
Outstanding Video... Anybody thats ever done this prepwork to their "FE" engine when they go to sleep at night wonders how their 428 ever lived past 5500 rpm before.
This was one of your best videos to date. Stuff beginners, as well as guys with some builds under their belts can benefit from. Details make the difference between a long lasting build, and something that will need refreshed in a couple years. A lot of old time tricks shared this time. Building a house on a solid foundation.
On another note, the Molnar connecting rods I ordered through You arrived today, in great condition. VERY nice pieces! Thank You again for getting them for me, a good price, and great service. Thanks again from Woodys Garage.
Thanks for all the information I broke a drill or 2 doing oil mods on the FEs did my 1st 390 in 1975. Found a receipt form Anderson auto parts in Greenville SC yesterday looking thru an old ford engine book receipt dated 2/14-1978
for MS 863p-10 $38.47 and CB 760p-10 $25 68. I googled those part numbers and summit still carries those but are a little more expensive. Been a FE man since high school 1973 got my 67 GT mustang 390 car no engine or trans cause that's all I could afford built my 1st drag car from it. Love your detail reminds me of someone I know. No way the boat anchor applies
Can't thank you enough for these videos. Super helpful!
You are too kind, thank you very much.
well done Brent
Great video Brent. I learned the hard way, why you have to clean a block again , even after machine shop had cleaned it. This was 35 years ago, and the oil drain backs got clogged up with crap. Since then I always clean all oil galleys and everything else really well, even if machine shop cleaned it too.
Great video, your attention to detail is second to none. The wealth of knowledge you are sharing with us is amazing, thanks.
Nice job Shaky. Lol. Darn phones make everyday simple things tough.
Throughly enjoyed this video Brent!
This was sone great prep info !!
All excellent, thorough information from a professional. Thank you.
Really enjoyed this video. I even shared with a friend building a Chevy. Love your approach, knowledge, and skill. Zen Master!
Great "TIPS" video Brent, and great video with you on Drag Boss' channel.
Excellent content!
Fantastic video, thanks for the quote on Rotating assembly here in the UK, I will need every single part supplying so looking to pull a kit together from you of all I need.
Great video. Wish I had seen this 2yrs ago before I had rebuilt my 390.
Great details on the FE Would love to see all the tricks you are willing to share.😁👍
You should try Cerakote air dry for the paint. Also Cerakote makes a series called Microslick for pistons and engine internal parts that mitigates carbon buildup.
Brent I would definitely buy a DVD of your block prep that is the kind of thing that makes a difference, me being on the West Coast I could show a engine builder the DVD
this was one of the Best videos about how to prepare a block I have ever seen. I remembered I saw a video about a guy with a Dart small block chevy, who tapped the oil return in the lifter valley, then the valley flooded and the oil went in the intake port. In this case with the FE block, Will this not happend because the restrictor in lifter galery? or is because the oil drain in the End of the block in FE are better Than the SBC?
Not to tell u ur business if course but I started years ago using aluminum recessed square drive pipe plugs for race car engines in the frist plug holes on 302 Fords. Dick Trickle told me way back when that it stiffened up the block walls in his 351C motors. Yes I'm 63 yrs old and been around to long vut it has never let me down even with the inevitable times when things get a little warmer than they should and pressures get a bit high in the cooling system. I was a Senior Master ASE for many years and tried to live by the idea that every day is a school day and appreciate u sharing your aquired knowledge with me as well. Thank u!
Great video! I've got a 390 from a 66 T-bird in the floor of my shop that I hope to one day make a 445 out of. I have a 65 F100 that it would go in. I have two 66 F100's with the 352 V8's. One of them has 31k original miles and the other is worn out with mix matched heads. Love the FE's and really enjoy your channel!
Really liked this video it answered several questions I had on block prep one question would be what do you use to wash the block, we are ready to start assembling our 445 Thanks
I'm pretty sure I did all these mods and a few more not mentioned here. Involving a 7/16 drill bit 24 inches long. I have a 1970 thick block from a truck 360. I sonic tested the block and mapped it for core shift observation. It's a nice block. I had 7 I went through till I found this one I selected. I hope everyone finds all those hidden ponies in their FE!
Blocks are subject to core shift, even in oil galleries. I do not open up any of them at all. In addition, you can open up the galleries, but you can't do anything at all to the choke points, where the oil has to turn 90° multiple times deep in the block.
enjoy the videos thanks
A great video 100%. I will be doing exactly this process to my D3TE block. Explaining in detail the minimalist approach to oil modifications is very helpful. #oilmods Is there any benefit to doing all of this prior to the machine shop boring and decking the block? Or just deburr everything afterwards?
We had a brand new C8 sideoiler lasted lasted 4 passes was one of the dreaded C8 soft blocks.
The center drain holes in the lifter valley is for oil to get to your cam and rod bearings cuz that is the way Ford designed it
There is absolutely no way that oil that’s in the lifter valley can get to the rod bearings.
Good episode. Been fooling with motors including FE's since these were brand new production pieces. Agree with all you have shown. But wonder why brass freeze plugs and steel block drain plug ... I'd use brass wherever water touches metal. Also the front main gallery plug, I'd use brass because I'd drill it 0.045" as an oil squirter onto the timing chain/sprocket. Your enhanced valley drains will help. But, because most blocks are inclined back toward the firewall on installation, there may not be enough oil to keep that chain wet ... A wet chain is a happy chain and it will extend the life of the chain greatly and allow it to not "stretch" over time, keeping the timing more consistent for much longer 😊
Chain gets a ton of splash. I’ve never used anything that puts more oil on the chain. Never an issue. Parts are better quality than they were decades ago.
As for steel plug, the plug is easily removed and changed. Freeze plugs are not. In addition, the fastener kits that come for these engines with original style fasteners all have steel plugs to look period correct.
Nice video, do you happen to have one that includes the installation of the cam plug?
Good job Brent, you need four more things to do!
Brent, as an FE novice I really appreciate the info. Would the upper end (lifter gallery) restrictors also apply to a retro-fit hydraulic roller?
1A+ Thank you!
Brent what size drill do you use for a hydraulic flat tap cam in the 1/8 NPT pipe plug in off shoots for cam I also have bronze lifter bore guides 390 block . I am also going to put the hose end and plug the drain backs like you did really enjoy your FE builds . You did a 390 for a friend of mine in Massachusetts for a wagon totally impressed by the performance of that motor !
You do not restrict for hydraulic cams. Solid cams only.
We use 3 parts acetone and 1 part trans fluid to swab out cylinders till white towel comes out clean.
Can you explain how you weight match rods and pistons to balance everything without grinding on anything? All of the videos I’ve seen say to find the lightest piston and remove material from the others to match. Then do the same on the small side of the rods. Then do the same on the large side of the rods. If you have another video to link to that would be great too.
Seen you on Drag Boss Garage like Ford content I've had alot of Ford Engines in my life time, good tips on block preparation been thinking about rebuilding my 428 CJ FE lately the question I have is have you ever Drilled the Oil hole out to a Bigger diameter from filter to pump ?? I seen it in an article years back for more oil flow wondered if you ever done anything like that ?? Keep up the good work
Not necessary. The factory hole is big enough.
Put a little assembly grease on the end of that allen wrench and the pipe plugs will stay on until you get them screwed in.
Brent, do you recommend the oil valley vent tubes in a windsor block?
Brett, I have a question when it comes to building a clevor. I'm using an aluminum cleveland head on a f4te block and have a question on the coolant passage modification to the block
Looks great 👍
You know Walmart sells Gun barrel flash light which are outstanding for using for all those tight oil galley holes and tight window spots, there in the shotgun and shell area 😊
Great information and share. What are your thoughts on restricting oil flow to the heads by restricting the oil galleries in the block instead of the heads?
I'd rather restrict in a spot where it's easy to get to. If you ever change setups or decide you need more/less oil, you have to pull the heads if you do it in the block.
@@lykinsmotorsports Yep, Have had to change my current set up myself. Great advice.
Try Shaving Cream in those bores it should lift those particles out and it may surprise you .
What type of sealent do you use on the oil galley plugs and the normal freeze plugs, oh cam plug?
Some good insight here.
Got a little problem I'm hoping somebody can help me with. During a move I misplaced my crank bearing caps. Ive torn everything apart 3 times trying to find them after the move.
What do I do now?
Would love to see fe pulling engine builds im setting up to try to figure ou my frist ever build its 1969 f250 with 390fe 4 speed dully rear end its an old wrecker
Interesting that block has a repair. The 390 block we used for my dads 445 stroker came from a 1 owner untouched 68 LTD (we had the car) and we found the lower rear gallery plug on the back of the block had been repaired in that manner also. Looks like it either had a casting defect or it broke the bottom portion of the block/threads when they tightened the plug down the first time.
I see it quite often, even on aftermarket blocks. You can't just scrap an entire block because of a little defect, so it's usually repaired right there on the spot.
Brent, what do you clean the outside of the block with so the paint will stick?
Well, the blocks are jet washed after machine work, then I usually pump lacquer thinner through the block and over the outside of it before painting.
Brent, do you use any sealant on the oil gallery plugs?
Just on external ones.
Many years ago when working on FE blocks most drag drag racers would modify the main bearing caps by relieving about 1/2 inch, of the bearings 0.010 to 0.015 inch to stop the "pinching" of the bearings on the crankshaft when they bolted down the main caps. Do they still do this ???
No sir.
I have question about oil drain back. In the front of the block there is a larger hole that would allow oil to drain back in the timing cover but only on one side becouse the dist is on the other side. But that one larger hole is alil high. Do u see a problem with drilling another hole through the front of the block just under & alil bit to the side of the larger hole? So it is level with the valley in the lifter valley. To allow oil to drain back easier? So the lifter valley would not hold as much oil. I saw someone do this & I did this to my last 390 & I haven't had any negative effects so far? Still running strong. The reason I ask is becouse I never see anyone else doing this? Yes it is useless under hard throttle but it would help drain oil when slowing down?
I've never done that. No issues.
If you have the machine shop “plateau finish” the cylinder walls, after the hone, you get NO black grit.
This is incorrect. We plateau hone every block and you always get stuff left over.
@@lykinsmotorsports hmm 🤔. Must be the final grit stone. 20 years as a machine shop owner, I retired. I used a CV-616, finished with a JHU-623, plateau finish nylon bristles brush (cv type), then pressure jet wash , brush out oil galleys and rinse, WD40 coat and wipe clean. Ready for assembly. Done! OBTW nice videos. Takes a lot of time editing. Thanks!
i dont know why i cant hear you,looks like a good video
How do you verify cam and lifter bore location?
Great information!! I’m now more educated on the FE engines😁
What’s your opinion on stainless freeze plugs??
I seen a sheet metal tunnel ram near the Dyno mule!! That also for an FE??
what do you think about D.S.S PISTONS
hear
I wish you were my auto shop teacher would have been more interesting 😕
cant here you