Thank you for taking the time to share what you've done. Your time is definitely appreciated and the knowledge will be put to good use. Couple questions. What book did you use, and would you recommend it?
Under each of the videos ("Show More") in this series is a link to the book that I used : GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD. My recommendation to anyone (not a heads down mechanic) that wants to rebuild an LS engine.... to surround yourself with resources!!!! 1) a Book or two, 2) Video Series such as this and there are many other overviews, 3) some local guy or friend that has some knowledge (sanity checks), and 4) a Machinist with a recommendation. I loved Chris Werner's book. The steps are very clear. There is a lot of sidebar knowledge sharing (nice to know stuff). Large sections on Architecture, Preparation, Disassembly, Machining, Re-Assembly, and I believe break in. It is definitely a great resource.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike you misskpoke at 5:20 the clearance is .0014 not .0016...if the line is bigger than .0015 then the clearance would be less because its squishing the plastigaige more . Great video man! I love your series i watch it everyday while im building my.lq4 just to make sure i dont miss anything.
I think you need to take another look at the Plastigauge scale! A smaller clearance would be represented by the plastic being squished more (wider result). My width is smaller than the 0.015 and wider than 0.020... so it is somewhere between the two. Closer to the 0.015, so I am estimating it to be 0.016. By the way in this picture, I placed the squished plastic next to the 0.015 (slightly blue colored), below the plastic is a reflection from the light. Whatcha think???
@@UCanDoIt2Mike your right im stupid! I dont know why but when i watched the video it looked like the plastigauge was larger than the .0015 I stand corrected..
Hey... I am not always correct. You had me second guessing myself. I had to go look at it again to make sure that I was interpreting it correctly... Cheers and have fun with your build!!!!! Mike
I have watched this video series about 3 times in whole prior to rebuilding my LM7 and have referred back to it a couple times during assembly. Honestly can not thank you enough for taking the time to put this together. So far I've reassembled my short block and it has gone smoothly and reasonably quickly thanks to you. Again, thank you so much!
This message slipped through the cracks. Just seeing it. Glad you found the series useful and congrats on what should be your finished engine. Cheers!!!! Mike.
Doing my first engine build with a 5.3 LS4. Between your videos and the LS master Build Book, I’m sailing through spotlessly. Always been a visual learner. Thanks for the great series!
For those wondering... because I know I was.... Crank main bearing tolerance: Production: -0.020-0.052mm 0.0008-0.0021in Service: 0.020-0.065mm 0.0008-0.0025in Connecting Rod: 0.023-0.076mm 0.0009-0.003in Thanks for the vid! really helped me out!
I got a 05 GMC 5.3 Vortec LM7, the truck is old but i love it, its a SLT so its loaded and I love that body style and that 5.3 in a nice little 295 horse. id like to wake up just a little to mabey 325, 320. Don't wanna fry my 4L60E
They are no more simple or complicated than any other engine I've ever seen, and they tend to be much more expensive (3 times the price in just about any parts you buy) then other engines!!
@@Anarchy-Is-Liberty talking about when it comes to working on the engine as someone who went into the mechanic world and new absolutely nothing the LS motor is one of THEE easiest to work/learn on not talking about money😭😭😭🤣🤪
It's just good info for anyone from young to old. We all forget things as years go past. Nice video for a refresher or to teach someone looking to build their first. Thanks. I pushed my old late 60's small blocks and my old cadi 472/500's to the back of the garage and realized the LS is the way to go. I hope my son eventually finds something to do with my old engines. Seems like a waste building the old stuff anymore. Only took them 35 years to come out with an engine that finally made the old sbc obsolete.its about time. Hard to get kids into fast cars when they have to rely on parts built in the late 60's and early 70's. Now the junk yards are full of LS engines just waiting for a kid that wants a fast car on fast food wages.hell of a dry spell but it's finally over.
Awesome Rick! In addition, we are at that point where there are many LSs in junk yards ready to be repurposed. The aftermarket manufacturers are now seeing a good initial wave of rebuilding of these engines and appear to be overly "proud" of their parts. It's all good stuff. A fun build and I enjoyed learning the new configuration and methods. Have a great day!
wow, this series just gave me the confidence to build my motor, and pass on buying a crate. I have a 5.3 block bored to 3.903, cleaned up and ready to go. All I needed for my first build was this series...thank you thank you thank you.
You just made my day!!!! I decided a while back to start recording some of the things that I am working on and was taking the approach to show enough details so that viewers could decide if they felt comfortable to DO IT 2. Thanks for the feedback, and have fun with yours!!!!! Cheers!
my first rebuild was1975 us army craft shop.paid 50 dollars 1965 w283.hot rodding ever since.just started watching videos on nondistributor engines.yours was great ,im process guy also.that machine shop part was great ,l know most machine shop stuff but your video taught me a few things .thanks .
There are many videos on the you tubes that are nowhere near this thorough! I want to personally thank you! Not only did you explain what you were doing you showed it. Spot on sir your technique, attention to detail and cleanliness are all things I look for when learning new things and that’s exactly what I gained here. Thank you again
I used to work for Hasting Manufacturing (I saw your ring box). I actually built a 350 small block .30 over using rings I made at work. Was kinda cool to know I made a part of a hot rod that I built. Molybdenum top rings were my choice as I actually made the molly rings. BTW- a ring spreader tool is cheap and a much better idea than sliding the rings down over the piston and scratching & making shavings that can get into the engine.
I bet it's cool to see people use parts that you once were an integral part of making. I agree partially on the ring spreader. If you are carful, it can be done by hand and avoid the issues that you mentioned. Using a spreader incorrectly can also cause the issues. People just need to use their head and slow down a little bit. My 2 cents... Cheers!
Hey I just wanted to thank you for these videos. I always wanted to build an engine but I was always afraid to do so. I have been watching your videos to get a feel and you have gave me inspiration to follow through. Being 19 I have found out that shops like to take advantage of that (one being break lines). I also always wanted to be able to say "I built that", watching your videos as a guide I have the build nearly complete. Although it may not seem like much, what you've given me I am extremely grateful for, I love your videos! Have a wonderful day!
That is Freaking Awesome!!!!!!!! People like you are the inspiration of my channel. I want to learn things, share, and unfold what I am doing to allow others to get a feeling if it is something they would like to tackle. I am very proud of you at your age to follow through. Once done, you will really enjoy sharing your accomplishments and smile every time you start that engine. You're also learning a "Fix it" methodology that can be applied to many things. THANK YOU for sharing your story and best of luck with your project!!!!!
I've been planning to build an LM7 for my little old bimmer that died. Thank goodness i found this. I would add LS1 and LM7 to the keywords to help people find it
Glad you found me as well. Is that an E36 in your photo. A 5.3L would be sweet in that thing!!!!! Those keywords have been there, it just takes a while for people to use them and raise the rankings. I believe "Likes" also play a key part in a higher ranking. Thank you sir!
I've enjoyed watching your videos. Informative and easy to follow. I really appreciate that you don't curse in your videos. So many engine how to videos are full of foul language.
Thank you for that compliment! My intent was to document what we are doing (right or wrong) and let people see what it takes to do something like this. It might encourage others to try it, if so inclined. Kind of the basis of my channel. This time it is a project that is on my "Honey Do" list! And I agree, the use of foul language is not required. I'm not looking for acceptance based on shock and drama. Thanks for watching and for the great feedback!!!!
Thank you for the kind words. It is a great project to share with your son. Something that he will remember forever! Cheers and enjoy your time together! Mike
To clarify for new builders, when the “plastigauge” is wider this means the clearance is “Less” not more. So when the smash is slightly wider than the .0015” indicator strip, it’s has less clearance +- .0014” depending how much wider. 👍
Thank you for the information. I have a '13 sierra with the LC9 that will be pulled and overhauled before the end of this year. These videos have been extremely helpful.
He's very detail oriented. I like his work. Kroil stinks really bad. Hard to clean off your hands. It's really a release agent. We use to use it to release stuck bolts in aluminum. About 25 years ago I tried brake fluid and heat (a very old mechanic's trick) and let it sit overnight. Stuck bolts come right out. Professional shooters use Kroil and Hoppe's 50/50 to clean the copper out of their barrels.
Got my build done about 3weeks ago and this video was great help and made my build a success so thanks for that. One thing I wanna ad is for people to make sure once they get that short block back from the machine shop is to make sure all plugs are in the motor. I was not building any oil pressure and it ended up being the diverter valve that plugs in behind the rear cover. Machine shop did not put back in or it came out during the cleaning process. Was a headache to figure out but I learned quite a bit on this build. Thanks again for the great videos
Sounds awesome Fernando! Yea my machinist did all my plugs except for the dumbbell plug for which I installed a new one from the kit. Good stuff ehhh!!!
Awesome, thanks. I begin my assembly next week, new block and all my forged internals are waiting for me. I'm being taught by an LS guru builder but its my first time ever doing one. So thanks............
@@UCanDoIt2Mike ....Mike....quick question about a very mixed up topic, engine break in. I've been watching a lot of video's on how to break in my engine, probably in about 2 weeks when its back in the car. As you know, its an iron LY6 (LS). Since I have roller lifters do I need to do this 25-30 minutes at 2,000-2,500 rpm for cam break in? Or do I only need to worry about breaking in the rings properly? It'll be first started and broken in on a dyno-jet chassis dyno. This engine has top ring at .026 gap and 2nd ring is at .024 gap and it'll be getting a turbo kit installed in a couple months at 18psi or so. ----- Whats my best break in process? Thanks.
Thank you so much for sharing this information! I recently purchased a 5.3 from my local junkyard with a 4l60E. I was also lucky to get another 5.3 from my boss at work due to him scrapping his pickup truck (bad frame). One has the 706 heads and one has 862 heads. I have been watching your videos and I have done everything exactly as you have. I’ll soon be taking my engine with the 862 heads to the machine shop. Thank you again for sharing I subscribed as well.
Happy that you have enjoyed the videos. It is awesome that you have a couple to rebuild. While the videos show all of the steps, it would be worth your while to pickup a rebuild book. It contains the steps and torque specs and so much more information. It really completes the experience. Cheers and have fun with your.... Mike!
Rowdy will appreciate the precision build! Well done with verifying tolerances and although it can be dull, it is absolutely essential. I would only improve by using lint free cloth and gloves. A wide open block can be a catch all and you can never be too careful. Keep up the great videos!
I completely agree with you on keeping things clean. Each night we covered the assembly with some plastic to help keep out some of the crud!!!! Thanks for the feedback!
I have 2 5.3 engines. One has 140k the other 109. I'm gonna slap in the lower milage motor and rebuild the higher with some hop ups. Can't wait to go back to your videos to get tips. 🤜🤛👏
i am rebuilding the exact same motor for my sierra ... these videos along with all the other shout outs are really gonna help .... thank you , thank you , thank you ..
Thank you for making this video. I stumbled across it and I'm glad I did. You did a great job filming and talking through all of it. I'm attempting my first 6.0 build soon and you've been a big help.
@@fluffinater Checkout the top of page 93 of the book. For Stock to Moderate build the Crank Main Bearing clearance should be between 0.00080-0.00210. So you should be good!
Very informative videos on the 5.3 Rebuild! It has good tips on how to tear apart and rebuild while keeping track of all the necessary parts with the 5.3L V8. This video has some tricks that I am definitely going to be using when I finally end up rebuilding the engine in my 2006 Silverado!
Ok Like I said before great videos and a job well done and a thumbs up. I have built many engine and I again just have one minor concern that may help those out there doing the same. I have a great machinist and I also do some minor machining, that said never trust your machinist to have cleaned the block. All ways tap all the thread holes with a bottoming tap. All ways use a good liquid detergent like Dawn to thoroughly clean the block of any machining particles or machining oils. All ways blow air through all the ports. Thanks and do keep the videos going.
You’re a savior for these videos lol, but I was laughing my ass off at work because I thought the cat meowing was you straining when tightening the cam timing gear 😂😂😂 awesome video.
That cat will not stop until you recognize her. Pretty crazy. She does it all the time when I am at the computer doing my editing. Cheers and have a great day! Mike
I found your video very interesting and helpful as I’m thinking about putting a 5.3 or 6.0 in my 69 LeMans. Only think I had a ? on was lve always been told not to hammer on gear or dampener onto crank.
Thanks for watching and glad you found it interesting. Sometimes we are all told things that are opinions and when you think about them, they are insignificant. A part of every service manual for about every engine type and manufacturer, there is a procedure for “setting” the crank thrust bearing. You literally pound the crank forward and backward to seat the thrust bearing. So in my opinion and based on directions from manuals, I don’t see any significant issues. I hope you have fun with your build. Enjoy the process.
Great video.... enjoyed it... and you're correct you have to be methodical during the rebuild process... and it is also imperative to tag Everything during tear down... make life so much easier later. Thanks again for the video.
Awesome!! I originally was planning and excited to go the L33 route, but for this first build, the price of the LM7 was the deciding factor.... $600. Have fun with your project!!!!! Mike
There is a formula for calculating the gap. then there are adjustments that can be applied to that depending on the use of the engine (example: Boosted). Page 106 and 107 of the book that I followed has a discussion and illustrates the formula. I however, used the recommendation of my Machinist as he was aware of what I was building. Cheers! Mike
UCanDoIt2 thanks!!! I definitely need it! I have an old BMW, 1990 325i and I'm wanting to do an LS swap because parts are cheaper and easy to get, unlike BMW parts where you basically have to get a loan just to get basic things replaced!
That's interesting to know on the cost of parts for the 90s BMWs. I have a 01 E39, 00 E46, and 07 E92 and find that taking it to a mechanic it very expensive, but if I buy the parts myself and have the boys (car's drivers) help with the work, it is extremely reasonable. I have a playlist for the E46 and am about to upload some E92 vids. Your swap sounds fun. I have heard that others have done it. Are there any companies that produce any specific adapters (motor mounts and such)? The cool thing is that you will have solve many of the same solutions that I will even though they are different vehicles. You will just have to solve yours a little differently. Cheers!
Sylvester Sledge II The wood was against the ends of the crank shaft. That was used to set (straighten/align) the thrust bearing (#3). After that, the end play can be properly measured.
Been enjoying the series well done. One thing you are torquing with an adapter and an extension. Both of those effect the actual torque on the fastener.
Thanks for the feedback! I have heard stories about the use of extensions and torque wrenches in the past and just Do Not believe it! As long as you keep the rotational axis of the torque wrench the same as the axis of the bolt (Concentric rotational axes) you are tightening, there is no ill affect. There would be a problem when using an extension, if you allow the two axes (this is the proper plural of Axis, I looked it up) to become non-centric. Which could happen due the extra joints introduced by the extension. Now I would agree with you to Never use a Universal Joint when torqueing a fastener as that does promote un-aligned Axes. Cool topic though... THANKS!!!!!
17:07 I honestly thought you were having trouble torquing the bolts and was thinking I know cam bolts can’t be torqued that high lol, turns out it was the cat meowing
My cat will walk into the room and if you don't address her... she will meow until you do. Just a simple "Hey!" will appease her and she walks away. She does the same thing when I'm editing. Cheers!
Romain Scheibert very cool Romain! That was the purpose of the series, to show all the steps the I took so that others could see what it takes. Cheers!!!!!!
COLOR ME GREEN... WITH ENVY !!! AWESOME SERIES, AWESOME CONTENT AND GOOD NARRATION. YOU ARE DOING WHAT I DREAM ABOUT EVERY DAY ! TAKE AN LS AND REBUILD IT WITH SOME SPICE...I WOULD PUT A NICE MEDIUM SMALL TURBO ON THOUGH NOT NEEDED. SO COOL ! YOU HAVE A GOOD VOICE FOR NARRATION, SO LOOSE THE MUSIC OVER AND PUT IN YOUR VOICE, IT WILL REALLY COMPLIMENT YOUR CONTENT. IF YOU WATCH THE REALLY SUCCESSFUL CHANNELS THERE IS LITTLE TO NO MUSIC OVER !!! YOU HAVE ALL THE MAKINGS OF AN OUTSTANDING CHANNEL...PERIOD ! THANK YOU FOR YOU EFFORTS... I CAN JUST IMAGINE HOW MUCH WORK AND TIME GOES INTO A VIDEO. CHEERS !
Thank you for the comment and feedback. There seems to be two camps when it comes to background music. Some like, some don't. Personally, I like it behind sections that are sped up. Many of the successful channels that I follow do the same. Anyway... Cheers and heave fun with your future projects!!!!
Hey man very cool build! And well done! That is exactly how i would have assembled this motor. It always pays to check the bearing clearances because once its in the car i prefer to not pull it back out for a very long time.. haha. Very nice tho loved the video!
noticed when you were using the torque wrench at 16:20 etc. you are turning the wrench until it 'clicks' which tells you it is torqued to the right setting. You should stop there (at one click). But you continue to click it 3-5 more times on each bolt. This will change the torque setting. Should only turn until it clicks one time. No more turning/torquing/clicking should be done after that.
I'm no engineer so I am going off of prior experience. I worked at a shock absorber manufacturer. When we were assembling shocks we had to tighten down a nut that secured the valve shims & piston. We used a torque wrench to tighten down this nut. Once fully assembled the shock would be run on a dyno & an electronic curve produced. All shocks had to pass a dyno test (set curve). We found that the curve varied on a batch of freshly assembled shocks. It was later determined that was because some assemblers were adding an extra click or two. So the hydraulic action changed with slight variances on this torqued down nut. Once all assemblers followed the one-click rule the shocks had a more consistent dyno reading!
This is a friendly response.... (don't read any of this as negative). I am an engineer, but will completely remove any credit of that toward this answer. When a Torque Wrench clicks... you have broken through the resistance of the torque value that you have set. Once you reach the desired torque, the action will break (Click). You could do that 10 times (properly) and it will continue to break at the established setting without any further rotation of the fastener*. In order for the fastener to rotate any further, the fastener would have to break the friction tension again to then begin any further rotation. Blah blah blah. HERE IS WHAT I THINK IS THE ISSUE. Non-thinking people are handed a Torque Wrench and believe it is a fool proof tool. I believe these yahoos... Set the Wrench, take the fastener to full torque, achieve the "Click" AND THEN BEYOND THE CLICK CONTINUE TO ROTATE! That is where additional rotation could occur and cause issues. It is a fantastic topic that so many "Keyboard Mechanics" love to harp on and it is just mostly non-sense. I enjoyed your statements that included your prior experience.. and I believe it also supports my thinking! Google proves and disproves both theories. It's just a ridiculous topic. I could be wrong! But there are MANY people building engines that don't own a Torque Wrench. I think we should go pick on them!!! Cheers.... Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks Mike. The extra clicking make me cringe only because of the past experience. It's like nails on the chalk board when I see & hear it! haha Love your videos & the fact that you are working with your kids! You are a much cooler dad than most! js
@@SilverZepp Interchanging parts is the perfect reason to do the Plastigauge step. There should be some nonstandard bearings that can bring you back to the proper tolerance.
I used the original Cam plate which is shown starting @ 15:49. At 16:28 I am installing a New Timing Set which includes Cam Sprocket, Crank Sprocket and Chain.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I wondered the same thing. It was recommended on any cam swap to replace the retainer plate. The printed gasket gets smashed flat and looses some of its ability to seal. Since it controls oil flow to the lifters, it's a critical part to me. I just finished my cam swap this evening and replaced mine because it was only $18 delivered. Great Videos that are super informative. Thanks for documenting your build! I watched some of your videos in my research before rebuilding the heads last year.
Something to point out and someone may or may not have said this I have not read all 274 comment thus far. I'm not an expert and someone can correct me if I'm wrong but you don't handle bearings with bare hands or touch the bearing surfaces. The acid in the oils from your fingers can actually etch at the bearing. I've always handled them with a gloved hand or handle them by the edges and traded it just like you would a halogen bulb. However (I'm not sure so this is where I could be wrong) today's modern bearings may have a coating on them to help prevent this and also assisted brake in. Also I noticed you prelubed the cylinders with 30 weight and installed the Piston is dry. in high school I work in a machine shop for a few months and my mentor always dipped his pistons in oil before putting them in. He told me it helped in breaking and the ring seating correctly so that's how I've always done it. Did your instructions mention this? Most of my experience is with older engine 70s and not with modern engines so I'm just curious. Great video and I'm enjoying your series.
Good stuff, following along. Hope that oil is break in oil. Recently build a race motorcycle and a Mercruiser marine engine. Will be rebuilding my LM7 5.3L Tahoe engine next. We should chat about the heads.
Yes the first batch of Oil will be used for break in. It is a non-detergent Oil so that it does not breakdown the assembly lube. Cheers and have fun with yours!!!!!!
Can you elabourate on a couple of points please? @ 7:30 min, just a bit of lube for under the flanges of the bolt heads but not the threads, however the side bolts got lube on the threads. How do you know when to use the lube or not? 8:00 min, I think you were “setting” the cam. Centering it? Or were you pushing it to one end for a total end play measurement? 1705-1710 I thought for a moment you had a “meowing” torque wrench LOL!!
Thanks for the feedback. Tried to cover everything while shortening the repetitive parts. Sounds like you enjoyed the series. Hope you have fun with your projects. Cheers! Mike
You would have thought that they would have stamped them down one side. They must have stamped them when unassembled. It is correct that #5 installs facing the opposite direction of the other 4 BTW. Cheers and have fun with your build!!!
everything up do is so well thought out. I try to mimic that in my own projects lately. it's a work in progress. lol great job Mike! lol the cat: meow. you: hey hahaha
Michael, You do a great job is what you are saying. It comes so easy to you. I think of what I'm to say that then try to say it. Man does it come out differently!! As far as the Cat... If I did not say "Hi" to her, she would have kept on chirping for an hour. Just a simple acknowledgement shuts her up! Too funny! My wife heard the cat when I was editing and she asked me where is the cat? She laughed as well. Cheers!
That sounds like a fun project. Are others putting LM7s in 240s? The reason that I ask is that a Truck based LS has accessory brackets that create a narrow but tall engine. While Car based LS engines are overall wider and shorter. Again your configuration is outside of my research, but maybe others are using an LM7 (truck LS) and then swapping out the Intake for a shorter style. I guess the point is, would you be better off starting with a Car based LS over a Truck based LS just from the standpoint of overall fitment. Cool project... keep me posted!
there are a few guys putting LQ4s in and you see this mostly done because a car based LS is more expensive then the truck based motors, $500-1000 for an LM7 with wiring and computer versus $2-3 for a lot of the car based LS's. The big thing is changing out the oil pan to clear the cross member and some guys will change the intake for hood clearance or opt to just cut to hood to make it fit. And a truck based LS makes more sense for my build because of the requirement for good low end and mid range torque.
Dont use ARP moly lube on factory fasteners! It changes the torque readings and youll end up over torquing them. ARP gives the torque spec for THEIR fasteners using that lube. If you install a factory fastener, install it per their directions.
Little trick.. These motors are known for the o-ring going bad in the oil pump pickup tube. When you replace it, smear some silicone around the joint after you clean it, or if you want it better, smear some JB weld around it. Just know it is permanent if you do, but better.
Thank you for taking the time to share what you've done. Your time is definitely appreciated and the knowledge will be put to good use. Couple questions. What book did you use, and would you recommend it?
Under each of the videos ("Show More") in this series is a link to the book that I used : GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD. My recommendation to anyone (not a heads down mechanic) that wants to rebuild an LS engine.... to surround yourself with resources!!!! 1) a Book or two, 2) Video Series such as this and there are many other overviews, 3) some local guy or friend that has some knowledge (sanity checks), and 4) a Machinist with a recommendation. I loved Chris Werner's book. The steps are very clear. There is a lot of sidebar knowledge sharing (nice to know stuff). Large sections on Architecture, Preparation, Disassembly, Machining, Re-Assembly, and I believe break in. It is definitely a great resource.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike you misskpoke at 5:20 the clearance is .0014 not .0016...if the line is bigger than .0015 then the clearance would be less because its squishing the plastigaige more . Great video man! I love your series i watch it everyday while im building my.lq4 just to make sure i dont miss anything.
I think you need to take another look at the Plastigauge scale! A smaller clearance would be represented by the plastic being squished more (wider result). My width is smaller than the 0.015 and wider than 0.020... so it is somewhere between the two. Closer to the 0.015, so I am estimating it to be 0.016. By the way in this picture, I placed the squished plastic next to the 0.015 (slightly blue colored), below the plastic is a reflection from the light. Whatcha think???
@@UCanDoIt2Mike your right im stupid! I dont know why but when i watched the video it looked like the plastigauge was larger than the .0015 I stand corrected..
Hey... I am not always correct. You had me second guessing myself. I had to go look at it again to make sure that I was interpreting it correctly... Cheers and have fun with your build!!!!! Mike
I have watched this video series about 3 times in whole prior to rebuilding my LM7 and have referred back to it a couple times during assembly. Honestly can not thank you enough for taking the time to put this together. So far I've reassembled my short block and it has gone smoothly and reasonably quickly thanks to you. Again, thank you so much!
This message slipped through the cracks. Just seeing it. Glad you found the series useful and congrats on what should be your finished engine. Cheers!!!! Mike.
Doing my first engine build with a 5.3 LS4. Between your videos and the LS master Build Book, I’m sailing through spotlessly. Always been a visual learner. Thanks for the great series!
Sweet! Glad you found the series useful to include in your reference materials. Cool stuff! Cheers and have a great time with your build! Mike
For those wondering... because I know I was....
Crank main bearing tolerance:
Production: -0.020-0.052mm
0.0008-0.0021in
Service: 0.020-0.065mm
0.0008-0.0025in
Connecting Rod:
0.023-0.076mm
0.0009-0.003in
Thanks for the vid! really helped me out!
So what color would I need green
I got a 5.3L in my 05 suburban that I wanna rebuild. You gave me the incentive to do get up and do it. Thanks bro. Each one teach one.
Awesome! Have fun... Mike!
I got a 05 GMC 5.3 Vortec LM7, the truck is old but i love it, its a SLT so its loaded and I love that body style and that 5.3 in a nice little 295 horse. id like to wake up just a little to mabey 325, 320. Don't wanna fry my 4L60E
You are legendary for doing this. The fact you take so much effort to help others, says a lot about you. Thanks so much!
I want to thank you for this comment. Just made my day! Thank you for taking the time for this feedback. Cheers! Mike
Def. Agree!
Always gotta love the 5.3 and 6.0L LS engines so simple
They are no more simple or complicated than any other engine I've ever seen, and they tend to be much more expensive (3 times the price in just about any parts you buy) then other engines!!
@@Anarchy-Is-Liberty talking about when it comes to working on the engine as someone who went into the mechanic world and new absolutely nothing the LS motor is one of THEE easiest to work/learn on not talking about money😭😭😭🤣🤪
Watched your videos when they first came out and now I literally just finished tearing down my LM7. Taking it to the machine shop tomorrow!
That is very cool! I appreciate hearing from you. Have fun with yours!!!!
Do you take the block only or whate other part you have to machine.
It's just good info for anyone from young to old. We all forget things as years go past. Nice video for a refresher or to teach someone looking to build their first. Thanks. I pushed my old late 60's small blocks and my old cadi 472/500's to the back of the garage and realized the LS is the way to go. I hope my son eventually finds something to do with my old engines. Seems like a waste building the old stuff anymore. Only took them 35 years to come out with an engine that finally made the old sbc obsolete.its about time. Hard to get kids into fast cars when they have to rely on parts built in the late 60's and early 70's. Now the junk yards are full of LS engines just waiting for a kid that wants a fast car on fast food wages.hell of a dry spell but it's finally over.
Awesome Rick! In addition, we are at that point where there are many LSs in junk yards ready to be repurposed. The aftermarket manufacturers are now seeing a good initial wave of rebuilding of these engines and appear to be overly "proud" of their parts. It's all good stuff. A fun build and I enjoyed learning the new configuration and methods. Have a great day!
I'll take the caddy 500 if you don't want it. Those things make a boatload of torque
@@GreatLakesLogger naw they are bearing throwers
ROFLMFAO!!! Ok, whatever you say!!
wow, this series just gave me the confidence to build my motor, and pass on buying a crate. I have a 5.3 block bored to 3.903, cleaned up and ready to go. All I needed for my first build was this series...thank you thank you thank you.
You just made my day!!!! I decided a while back to start recording some of the things that I am working on and was taking the approach to show enough details so that viewers could decide if they felt comfortable to DO IT 2. Thanks for the feedback, and have fun with yours!!!!! Cheers!
This is a very well done instructional series. If i ever get to build an LS motor. This will be my go-to video guide, during the build.
Thank you !!!! Hope you decide to do it!!! Cheers!
I feel the same way!
Well produced, full of incorrect or bad information and/or practices.
Don’t waste your time they’re not worth it
my first rebuild was1975 us army craft shop.paid 50 dollars 1965 w283.hot rodding ever since.just started watching videos on nondistributor engines.yours was great ,im process guy also.that machine shop part was great ,l know most machine shop stuff but your video taught me a few things .thanks .
Good stuff on the machine shop. Cheers!
There are many videos on the you tubes that are nowhere near this thorough! I want to personally thank you! Not only did you explain what you were doing you showed it. Spot on sir your technique, attention to detail and cleanliness are all things I look for when learning new things and that’s exactly what I gained here. Thank you again
Alex Amys Glad you enjoyed the series and thank you very much for the incredible compliment. We really enjoyed the build! Mike.
I used to work for Hasting Manufacturing (I saw your ring box). I actually built a 350 small block .30 over using rings I made at work. Was kinda cool to know I made a part of a hot rod that I built. Molybdenum top rings were my choice as I actually made the molly rings. BTW- a ring spreader tool is cheap and a much better idea than sliding the rings down over the piston and scratching & making shavings that can get into the engine.
I bet it's cool to see people use parts that you once were an integral part of making. I agree partially on the ring spreader. If you are carful, it can be done by hand and avoid the issues that you mentioned. Using a spreader incorrectly can also cause the issues. People just need to use their head and slow down a little bit. My 2 cents... Cheers!
There are good mechanics, and there are good mechanics with good hands. Hes got good hands.
Hey I just wanted to thank you for these videos. I always wanted to build an engine but I was always afraid to do so. I have been watching your videos to get a feel and you have gave me inspiration to follow through. Being 19 I have found out that shops like to take advantage of that (one being break lines). I also always wanted to be able to say "I built that", watching your videos as a guide I have the build nearly complete. Although it may not seem like much, what you've given me I am extremely grateful for, I love your videos! Have a wonderful day!
That is Freaking Awesome!!!!!!!! People like you are the inspiration of my channel. I want to learn things, share, and unfold what I am doing to allow others to get a feeling if it is something they would like to tackle. I am very proud of you at your age to follow through. Once done, you will really enjoy sharing your accomplishments and smile every time you start that engine. You're also learning a "Fix it" methodology that can be applied to many things. THANK YOU for sharing your story and best of luck with your project!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 I will be sure to post a video as soon as I get her fired up! Once again thank you!
I've been planning to build an LM7 for my little old bimmer that died.
Thank goodness i found this.
I would add LS1 and LM7 to the keywords to help people find it
Glad you found me as well. Is that an E36 in your photo. A 5.3L would be sweet in that thing!!!!! Those keywords have been there, it just takes a while for people to use them and raise the rankings. I believe "Likes" also play a key part in a higher ranking. Thank you sir!
UCanDoIt2 Its an e30. and thats the car the engine is going into.
i gave a like for all videos in the series. Lots of great info here
I greatly appreciate the Likes!!!! That should help others find the videos.... We have an E46, E92 and E38. Fantastic cars!!!! Thank you Sir!
I've enjoyed watching your videos. Informative and easy to follow. I really appreciate that you don't curse in your videos. So many engine how to videos are full of foul language.
Thank you for that compliment! My intent was to document what we are doing (right or wrong) and let people see what it takes to do something like this. It might encourage others to try it, if so inclined. Kind of the basis of my channel. This time it is a project that is on my "Honey Do" list! And I agree, the use of foul language is not required. I'm not looking for acceptance based on shock and drama. Thanks for watching and for the great feedback!!!!
I’m building an LM7 with my son and your videos are so helpful. I really appreciate you for making and sharing them. Absolutely great work.
Thank you for the kind words. It is a great project to share with your son. Something that he will remember forever! Cheers and enjoy your time together! Mike
To clarify for new builders, when the “plastigauge” is wider this means the clearance is “Less” not more. So when the smash is slightly wider than the .0015” indicator strip, it’s has less clearance +- .0014” depending how much wider. 👍
Fact!
Yea it would've helped alot if he will explain alot of what's going on for us new builders 🥴
Thanks again for all your help with my research project this week so please don't stop there you have to give me the confidence build my own
Excellent! Glad you enjoyed the series. Best of luck with your projects! Mike
Sir I’am a certified mechanic,built many oh engines,you r doing a fantastic job!!!👍great work👍🏁
Thank you John! Always great to hear positive comments from someone more qualified. Thanks!!!!!!
This is why I have two vehicles that aren't safe to drive. Certified mechanics know so little about mechanics that they think this is a great job.
Thank you for the information. I have a '13 sierra with the LC9 that will be pulled and overhauled before the end of this year. These videos have been extremely helpful.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the series. Hope it provided a good look at what takes place during a rebuild! Cheers!
He's very detail oriented. I like his work. Kroil stinks really bad. Hard to clean off your hands. It's really a release agent. We use to use it to release stuck bolts in aluminum. About 25 years ago I tried brake fluid and heat (a very old mechanic's trick) and let it sit overnight. Stuck bolts come right out. Professional shooters use Kroil and Hoppe's 50/50 to clean the copper out of their barrels.
Thanks for the feedback. Never thought to use it to clean guns.... Good stuff!
By far the best video on this topic on RUclips. Thanks!
Thank you Keith! I appreciate the kind words!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike You're welcome!
Great information on the build. Great steps to ensure it run correctly. Good job hope it runs forever
Thanks for the feedback Robert! Cheers to you Sir! Mike
Well done mate, from Australia, definitely gonna help me build my 6.0L V8
Thank you! Glad we are reaching you on the other side. Cheers!
Got my build done about 3weeks ago and this video was great help and made my build a success so thanks for that. One thing I wanna ad is for people to make sure once they get that short block back from the machine shop is to make sure all plugs are in the motor. I was not building any oil pressure and it ended up being the diverter valve that plugs in behind the rear cover. Machine shop did not put back in or it came out during the cleaning process. Was a headache to figure out but I learned quite a bit on this build. Thanks again for the great videos
Sounds awesome Fernando! Yea my machinist did all my plugs except for the dumbbell plug for which I installed a new one from the kit. Good stuff ehhh!!!
Awesome, thanks. I begin my assembly next week, new block and all my forged internals are waiting for me. I'm being taught by an LS guru builder but its my first time ever doing one. So thanks............
Awesome! Enjoy the process. It is very rewarding when you hear it fire up for the first time! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike ....Mike....quick question about a very mixed up topic, engine break in. I've been watching a lot of video's on how to break in my engine, probably in about 2 weeks when its back in the car. As you know, its an iron LY6 (LS). Since I have roller lifters do I need to do this 25-30 minutes at 2,000-2,500 rpm for cam break in? Or do I only need to worry about breaking in the rings properly? It'll be first started and broken in on a dyno-jet chassis dyno. This engine has top ring at .026 gap and 2nd ring is at .024 gap and it'll be getting a turbo kit installed in a couple months at 18psi or so. ----- Whats my best break in process? Thanks.
Thank you so much for sharing this information! I recently purchased a 5.3 from my local junkyard with a 4l60E. I was also lucky to get another 5.3 from my boss at work due to him scrapping his pickup truck (bad frame). One has the 706 heads and one has 862 heads. I have been watching your videos and I have done everything exactly as you have. I’ll soon be taking my engine with the 862 heads to the machine shop. Thank you again for sharing I subscribed as well.
Happy that you have enjoyed the videos. It is awesome that you have a couple to rebuild. While the videos show all of the steps, it would be worth your while to pickup a rebuild book. It contains the steps and torque specs and so much more information. It really completes the experience. Cheers and have fun with your.... Mike!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you I will most definitely grab some books!
Excellent, clear, informative. Really appreciate your work. Liked cat’s comments too!
Thanks for the feedback. That project was a lot of fun!!!! Mike
Rowdy will appreciate the precision build! Well done with verifying tolerances and although it can be dull, it is absolutely essential. I would only improve by using lint free cloth and gloves. A wide open block can be a catch all and you can never be too careful. Keep up the great videos!
I completely agree with you on keeping things clean. Each night we covered the assembly with some plastic to help keep out some of the crud!!!! Thanks for the feedback!
I usually don't say this ..... i've watched all your videos, and you've done a fantastic job so far, keep up the great work buddy
Thank you.... Thank you!!!!! Now it's time to get working on the Jeep that this engine will be pushing around. Cheers!
I have 2 5.3 engines. One has 140k the other 109. I'm gonna slap in the lower milage motor and rebuild the higher with some hop ups. Can't wait to go back to your videos to get tips. 🤜🤛👏
Went to go correct your main cap but ended up watching your whole video. Good stuff.
Fun to watch people who know what they are doing! ! Good inspiration !.Thank you 👍🏼
Cheers to you sir!!! This was a very fun project. The best to all of your future projects!!!!
i am rebuilding the exact same motor for my sierra ... these videos along with all the other shout outs are really gonna help .... thank you , thank you , thank you ..
Awesome! Have fun with yours!!!! Mike
Man I could watch this all day. I wanna be able to break a motor down and build it back up. Hell yeahh 🤘
Just a great excuse to gather your tools and purchase a new bottle of GoJo!!!!
Has helped me put together several motors together and haven’t had a issue yet. Thank you!!😀
Love it! Thanks for the feedback. Cheers to you Sir!!!!
Always enjoy your vids no matter how many times I watch the same one. Good quality all around, thank you.
Thank you Sir! It was a really fun project!!!! Cheers and have fun with your next project.
UCanDoIt2 Thanks, working on it right now actually. May have some videos of my own if my videos will actually load.
Thank you for making this video. I stumbled across it and I'm glad I did. You did a great job filming and talking through all of it. I'm attempting my first 6.0 build soon and you've been a big help.
Glad you enjoyed the series. Best of luck and have fun with your project! Mike
this is very informatable one of the best tear down and rebuild videos yet ....thank you soooo much Rowdy ... :)
Glad you enjoyed the series. Cheers!
I enjoyed the Video. I rebuilt the top end of my camaro and a cam swap. Its always great when its all done and rolling
Thank you for the great video. You gave lots of attention to details and this is what professionalism is.
Many thanks... It was a very fun build!!!
Great job I am a student myself and this is a very well explained and detailed video!
xtranger High Glad you enjoyed it. Always fun to learn new things. Have fun with your studies. Cheers..... Mike!!!
I bought that book I like the way you do it the
Book makes it a lot harder then it needs to be thanks for the info.
Thanks for the feedback and have fun with your build. Mike
I just measured my mains I got .0015 on all of them do you think that’s ok? I get so many mixed opinions everywhere I look.
@@fluffinater Checkout the top of page 93 of the book. For Stock to Moderate build the Crank Main Bearing clearance should be between 0.00080-0.00210. So you should be good!
Very nice video, learned a lot. Thank you very much, have a blessed day.
Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers!
This is an awesome video someone doing it all by the book I see to many idiots just slapping stuff together great job so far I'm still watching
Thank you Paul! It was a cool project!!!!!
Very informative videos on the 5.3 Rebuild! It has good tips on how to tear apart and rebuild while keeping track of all the necessary parts with the 5.3L V8. This video has some tricks that I am definitely going to be using when I finally end up rebuilding the engine in my 2006 Silverado!
Steven Agee Awesome! Glad you found the series informative. Best of luck and have fun with yours when you decide to rebuild it.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! Just tore into a 5.3 for the first time!
Have fun with yours! Mike
Ok Like I said before great videos and a job well done and a thumbs up. I have built many engine and I again just have one minor concern that may help those out there doing the same. I have a great machinist and I also do some minor machining, that said never trust your machinist to have cleaned the block. All ways tap all the thread holes with a bottoming tap. All ways use a good liquid detergent like Dawn to thoroughly clean the block of any machining particles or machining oils. All ways blow air through all the ports. Thanks and do keep the videos going.
good work,ive built a few engines in my younger days of drag racing.nothing has changed much.you did a beautiful job,i enjoyed the video!!!
Thank you Rickie! Much of the same stuff just in different locations. Good stuff overall! Cheers.
Looking to rebuilding a 5.3. So thanks for having these videos up.
jvh22a Glade you found and enjoyed them. Have fun with yours!!!!!
You’re a savior for these videos lol, but I was laughing my ass off at work because I thought the cat meowing was you straining when tightening the cam timing gear 😂😂😂 awesome video.
That cat will not stop until you recognize her. Pretty crazy. She does it all the time when I am at the computer doing my editing. Cheers and have a great day! Mike
Wow, so much info in these videos. I have dreams of rebuilding my 346 one day and if if ever happens these will help immensely!
Tarvisse Thanks for the feedback. It's a lot of fun. Thank you!
I found your video very interesting and helpful as I’m thinking about putting a 5.3 or 6.0 in my 69 LeMans. Only think I had a ? on was lve always been told not to hammer on gear or dampener onto crank.
Thanks for watching and glad you found it interesting. Sometimes we are all told things that are opinions and when you think about them, they are insignificant. A part of every service manual for about every engine type and manufacturer, there is a procedure for “setting” the crank thrust bearing. You literally pound the crank forward and backward to seat the thrust bearing. So in my opinion and based on directions from manuals, I don’t see any significant issues. I hope you have fun with your build. Enjoy the process.
Great video.... enjoyed it... and you're correct you have to be methodical during the rebuild process... and it is also imperative to tag Everything during tear down... make life so much easier later.
Thanks again for the video.
Great video! I'm building a L33 with gen 4 internals and a stage 4 truck cam with milled 243 heads
Awesome!! I originally was planning and excited to go the L33 route, but for this first build, the price of the LM7 was the deciding factor.... $600. Have fun with your project!!!!! Mike
How’s the stage 4 cam
This video is great! Soon I will be building an Ls for the first time!
Get you a good book for detailed references and enjoy the process!!!!!
Just good plain engine building i enjoyed it very much
I appreciated the feedback. We had a blast with the rebuild. Thank you Sir!
Great video I couldn't find ring gaps anywhere
There is a formula for calculating the gap. then there are adjustments that can be applied to that depending on the use of the engine (example: Boosted). Page 106 and 107 of the book that I followed has a discussion and illustrates the formula. I however, used the recommendation of my Machinist as he was aware of what I was building. Cheers! Mike
Good job!! I'm about to do a 5.3 rebuild and 383 stroker rebuild myself. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the feedback. Have fun with your build!!!!
I really appreciate this series. Very informative and definitely something I (and so many others) have been waiting for
Glad you have enjoyed the series! I have really enjoyed the process. Best of luck with your projects!
UCanDoIt2 thanks!!! I definitely need it! I have an old BMW, 1990 325i and I'm wanting to do an LS swap because parts are cheaper and easy to get, unlike BMW parts where you basically have to get a loan just to get basic things replaced!
That's interesting to know on the cost of parts for the 90s BMWs. I have a 01 E39, 00 E46, and 07 E92 and find that taking it to a mechanic it very expensive, but if I buy the parts myself and have the boys (car's drivers) help with the work, it is extremely reasonable. I have a playlist for the E46 and am about to upload some E92 vids. Your swap sounds fun. I have heard that others have done it. Are there any companies that produce any specific adapters (motor mounts and such)? The cool thing is that you will have solve many of the same solutions that I will even though they are different vehicles. You will just have to solve yours a little differently. Cheers!
I didn't watch all of this .. ran out of time. But good job and good video.. I will watch the rest later !
What if you don't like the last half of the video? You may have to recant the previous statement! Cheers and thanks for watching.
Nice! I enjoy the detailed videos of "how you did it". That was a lot of work!
I didn't expect it to take all day, but didn't mind the thought of getting it right.
Awesome video, I'll be watching this when I go to assemble my Lq4. Subscribed, thanks!
Sounds like a great plan. Hope you enjoy building yours!!!! Mike
Nice video...Great Camera work. Nice clear instructions...Learned alot...!!! Thank you
Thank you Sylvester! Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 I am building a 388 stroker and you cleared up my concern all in one video...Lol your awesome bro!!!!
UCanDoIt2 Question....Where you hitting the crank ends or the caps with piece of wood and why..
Sylvester Sledge II The wood was against the ends of the crank shaft. That was used to set (straighten/align) the thrust bearing (#3). After that, the end play can be properly measured.
Been enjoying the series well done. One thing you are torquing with an adapter and an extension. Both of those effect the actual torque on the fastener.
Thanks for the feedback! I have heard stories about the use of extensions and torque wrenches in the past and just Do Not believe it! As long as you keep the rotational axis of the torque wrench the same as the axis of the bolt (Concentric rotational axes) you are tightening, there is no ill affect. There would be a problem when using an extension, if you allow the two axes (this is the proper plural of Axis, I looked it up) to become non-centric. Which could happen due the extra joints introduced by the extension. Now I would agree with you to Never use a Universal Joint when torqueing a fastener as that does promote un-aligned Axes. Cool topic though... THANKS!!!!!
17:07 I honestly thought you were having trouble torquing the bolts and was thinking I know cam bolts can’t be torqued that high lol, turns out it was the cat meowing
My cat will walk into the room and if you don't address her... she will meow until you do. Just a simple "Hey!" will appease her and she walks away. She does the same thing when I'm editing. Cheers!
You Sir, are Super Awesome! Wow what an Amazing video.... Thank You...... From San Jose, Ca
Cheers to you Felipe! Thank you for the great comment.
Thanks you.
It definitely helps newbies like me to see how it's before doing it.
Romain Scheibert very cool Romain! That was the purpose of the series, to show all the steps the I took so that others could see what it takes. Cheers!!!!!!
Meticulous and clean work, nice video
Thank you Sir! Cheers... Mike
Nice trick with the protractor. Way easier than using one of those god awful angle gauges from the parts stores. They never work.
It was such a simple tool to created and worked perfectly for what I needed. Cheers! Mike.
COLOR ME GREEN... WITH ENVY !!! AWESOME SERIES, AWESOME CONTENT AND GOOD NARRATION. YOU ARE DOING WHAT I DREAM ABOUT EVERY DAY ! TAKE AN LS AND REBUILD IT WITH SOME SPICE...I WOULD PUT A NICE MEDIUM SMALL TURBO ON THOUGH NOT NEEDED. SO COOL !
YOU HAVE A GOOD VOICE FOR NARRATION, SO LOOSE THE MUSIC OVER AND PUT IN YOUR VOICE, IT WILL REALLY COMPLIMENT YOUR CONTENT. IF YOU WATCH THE REALLY SUCCESSFUL CHANNELS THERE IS LITTLE TO NO MUSIC OVER !!! YOU HAVE ALL THE MAKINGS OF AN OUTSTANDING CHANNEL...PERIOD !
THANK YOU FOR YOU EFFORTS... I CAN JUST IMAGINE HOW MUCH WORK AND TIME GOES INTO A VIDEO.
CHEERS !
Thank you for the comment and feedback. There seems to be two camps when it comes to background music. Some like, some don't. Personally, I like it behind sections that are sped up. Many of the successful channels that I follow do the same. Anyway... Cheers and heave fun with your future projects!!!!
I think you should be using sealant on the lateral bolts. The mains have oil ports.
Man i wished i new where i left off on my 5.3, kinda wanna go back and re start again
I'm really enjoying this series. Great work and I look forward to your future projects.
Thank you for taking the time to leave this comment! I greatly appreciate your kind words!
Hey man very cool build! And well done! That is exactly how i would have assembled this motor. It always pays to check the bearing clearances because once its in the car i prefer to not pull it back out for a very long time.. haha. Very nice tho loved the video!
Very cool! Thanks for the feedback. A lot of upgrades that were not HP related. Most people can't understand that. Cheers to you!!!!
noticed when you were using the torque wrench at 16:20 etc. you are turning the wrench until it 'clicks' which tells you it is torqued to the right setting. You should stop there (at one click). But you continue to click it 3-5 more times on each bolt. This will change the torque setting. Should only turn until it clicks one time. No more turning/torquing/clicking should be done after that.
Hatchet Harry You need to do a little more research.
I'm no engineer so I am going off of prior experience. I worked at a shock absorber manufacturer. When we were assembling shocks we had to tighten down a nut that secured the valve shims & piston. We used a torque wrench to tighten down this nut. Once fully assembled the shock would be run on a dyno & an electronic curve produced. All shocks had to pass a dyno test (set curve). We found that the curve varied on a batch of freshly assembled shocks. It was later determined that was because some assemblers were adding an extra click or two. So the hydraulic action changed with slight variances on this torqued down nut. Once all assemblers followed the one-click rule the shocks had a more consistent dyno reading!
This is a friendly response.... (don't read any of this as negative). I am an engineer, but will completely remove any credit of that toward this answer. When a Torque Wrench clicks... you have broken through the resistance of the torque value that you have set. Once you reach the desired torque, the action will break (Click). You could do that 10 times (properly) and it will continue to break at the established setting without any further rotation of the fastener*. In order for the fastener to rotate any further, the fastener would have to break the friction tension again to then begin any further rotation. Blah blah blah.
HERE IS WHAT I THINK IS THE ISSUE. Non-thinking people are handed a Torque Wrench and believe it is a fool proof tool. I believe these yahoos... Set the Wrench, take the fastener to full torque, achieve the "Click" AND THEN BEYOND THE CLICK CONTINUE TO ROTATE! That is where additional rotation could occur and cause issues.
It is a fantastic topic that so many "Keyboard Mechanics" love to harp on and it is just mostly non-sense.
I enjoyed your statements that included your prior experience.. and I believe it also supports my thinking!
Google proves and disproves both theories. It's just a ridiculous topic.
I could be wrong! But there are MANY people building engines that don't own a Torque Wrench. I think we should go pick on them!!! Cheers.... Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks Mike. The extra clicking make me cringe only because of the past experience. It's like nails on the chalk board when I see & hear it! haha Love your videos & the fact that you are working with your kids! You are a much cooler dad than most! js
Fully understand!!!! Cheers to you Sir! Mike
This is the video I’ve been looking for. Very detailed. Thank you sir!! Wish me luck
Glad you found it! Have fun with your project... Best of luck!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike just plastigauged twice all 5 read .001 what’s the best course of action?
Non standard bearings or some crank machining.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike everything was cleaned torqued correct and the crank was cleaned and polished. It’s an gen 4 internals into a gen 3 LQ block
@@SilverZepp Interchanging parts is the perfect reason to do the Plastigauge step. There should be some nonstandard bearings that can bring you back to the proper tolerance.
Did you replace that cam plate @ 16:28..is that a new plate?
I used the original Cam plate which is shown starting @ 15:49. At 16:28 I am installing a New Timing Set which includes Cam Sprocket, Crank Sprocket and Chain.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I wondered the same thing. It was recommended on any cam swap to replace the retainer plate. The printed gasket gets smashed flat and looses some of its ability to seal. Since it controls oil flow to the lifters, it's a critical part to me. I just finished my cam swap this evening and replaced mine because it was only $18 delivered. Great Videos that are super informative. Thanks for documenting your build! I watched some of your videos in my research before rebuilding the heads last year.
@@Mattvardaman I did lift the gasket off the plate and applied a thin layer of gasket maker in the grove that it sat in.
Would’ve great if you showed more about piston rings positions and how they go one by one.
Im really enjoying your videos on this engine. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Dylan!!!
UCanDoIt2 Yes sir. Thank you!
Sounds like bacon frying while your were installing rings...lol maybe I'm just hungry
Great job, i enjoyed watching.. Go Dawgs. Number 1 Dawgs Fan in NJ
First of all... Always Go Dawgs!!!! Thank you for the compliment. You are alright in my book. Cheers!!!!
Something to point out and someone may or may not have said this I have not read all 274 comment thus far. I'm not an expert and someone can correct me if I'm wrong but you don't handle bearings with bare hands or touch the bearing surfaces. The acid in the oils from your fingers can actually etch at the bearing. I've always handled them with a gloved hand or handle them by the edges and traded it just like you would a halogen bulb. However (I'm not sure so this is where I could be wrong) today's modern bearings may have a coating on them to help prevent this and also assisted brake in. Also I noticed you prelubed the cylinders with 30 weight and installed the Piston is dry. in high school I work in a machine shop for a few months and my mentor always dipped his pistons in oil before putting them in. He told me it helped in breaking and the ring seating correctly so that's how I've always done it. Did your instructions mention this? Most of my experience is with older engine 70s and not with modern engines so I'm just curious. Great video and I'm enjoying your series.
Good stuff, following along. Hope that oil is break in oil. Recently build a race motorcycle and a Mercruiser marine engine. Will be rebuilding my LM7 5.3L Tahoe engine next. We should chat about the heads.
Yes the first batch of Oil will be used for break in. It is a non-detergent Oil so that it does not breakdown the assembly lube. Cheers and have fun with yours!!!!!!
16:00 Cam retainer plate looks used. I'd replace unless the seal looks very good/has very low miles on it.
Thee plate should be fine. The kit that my machinist put together included a new gasket for this.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I didn't know they made a replacement gasket. Thanks!
At 17:06 I thought your tq wrench had a cat sound for about 3 seconds.. lol..
@@kevin43324332 We still own that cat. She’s 18 years old now. Loves to check out my progress.
Can you elabourate on a couple of points please?
@ 7:30 min, just a bit of lube for under the flanges of the bolt heads but not the threads, however the side bolts got lube on the threads. How do you know when to use the lube or not?
8:00 min, I think you were “setting” the cam. Centering it? Or were you pushing it to one end for a total end play measurement?
1705-1710 I thought for a moment you had a “meowing” torque wrench LOL!!
Good stuff man great video and straight to the point action! Thank you sir!
Thanks for the feedback. Tried to cover everything while shortening the repetitive parts. Sounds like you enjoyed the series. Hope you have fun with your projects. Cheers! Mike
My #5 main cap is on the opposite side also.
You would have thought that they would have stamped them down one side. They must have stamped them when unassembled. It is correct that #5 installs facing the opposite direction of the other 4 BTW. Cheers and have fun with your build!!!
Thanks.
Very nice, spotless clean job. Two thumbs up👍👍
Thank you Steve! Feeling great about how all the clearances turns out. We'll be smoken' some tires soon!
Excellent video man!!!
Good stuff... Cheers!
sorry i see you corrected it at end of video, looks great
everything up do is so well thought out. I try to mimic that in my own projects lately. it's a work in progress. lol great job Mike!
lol
the cat: meow.
you: hey hahaha
Michael, You do a great job is what you are saying. It comes so easy to you. I think of what I'm to say that then try to say it. Man does it come out differently!! As far as the Cat... If I did not say "Hi" to her, she would have kept on chirping for an hour. Just a simple acknowledgement shuts her up! Too funny! My wife heard the cat when I was editing and she asked me where is the cat? She laughed as well. Cheers!
Loving the videos so far and this fits really nicely because I'm going to throw an LM7 into my 240. I'll keep you posted Kay?
That sounds like a fun project. Are others putting LM7s in 240s? The reason that I ask is that a Truck based LS has accessory brackets that create a narrow but tall engine. While Car based LS engines are overall wider and shorter. Again your configuration is outside of my research, but maybe others are using an LM7 (truck LS) and then swapping out the Intake for a shorter style. I guess the point is, would you be better off starting with a Car based LS over a Truck based LS just from the standpoint of overall fitment. Cool project... keep me posted!
there are a few guys putting LQ4s in and you see this mostly done because a car based LS is more expensive then the truck based motors, $500-1000 for an LM7 with wiring and computer versus $2-3 for a lot of the car based LS's. The big thing is changing out the oil pan to clear the cross member and some guys will change the intake for hood clearance or opt to just cut to hood to make it fit. And a truck based LS makes more sense for my build because of the requirement for good low end and mid range torque.
Very cool! Looks like you are on top of all that. Have fun with your build...
Dont use ARP moly lube on factory fasteners! It changes the torque readings and youll end up over torquing them. ARP gives the torque spec for THEIR fasteners using that lube. If you install a factory fastener, install it per their directions.
Little trick.. These motors are known for the o-ring going bad in the oil pump pickup tube. When you replace it, smear some silicone around the joint after you clean it, or if you want it better, smear some JB weld around it. Just know it is permanent if you do, but better.
About to do one very soon
Hope you enjoy the process as much as I did. Very neat to put it all together! Enjoy! Mike