@@christianespinoza3822 According to the Guide Book, 18 ft-lbs. You really need a guidebook. I used... GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
Thanks you for taking the time out of your project to make these videos. I'm guessing it triples or more the amount of time it takes to do the actual task at hand. The videos are great quality and very well done and skipping the redundancy and meaningless chatter is much appreciated.
Thank you so much! I estimate that this process increases the effort about 3 to 4 times. The odd thing is.... I just plain enjoy it. I'm in no hurry. Thank you for taking the time to share your feedback. Your specific observations align and justify my current approach. Cheers to you! And have fun with your projects.
man thank you!!!! I'm sitting over here watching every last vid lol. I also have a 5.3 that I'm about to break down and put in my 86' Iroc. your videos are straight forward and have attention to detail. truthfully I woulnt have attempted the bottom end but now?? I might give it a shot lol. keep up the great work.
Just want to say after watching your series about the ls engine I finally decided to drop my engine off at the machine shop I finally got it back and I feel confident jumping into putting my engine back together. I got the main caps and bearings done. When I do my 6.0 I want to do that one myself.
Awesome!!!! Surround yourself with plenty of information like a rebuild guide. Most importantly take your time, relax, and have fun learning something new!!! Cheers... Mike!
i love this so much, first off its amazing to see how precise you are on building this engine. second these engines look easy and i look forward to rebuilding mine. Right now I currently have a 2004 chevy avalanche and I make youtube videos on the truck repairing anything and everything. seriously man i love this video...
Hey there, I"m really enjoying your videos on the 5.3 rebuild. I have a 5.3 that I need to rebuild. It's going into a 1968 Nova that i am restoring. I just wanted to share with you something I have read about the oil pan installation. What I have read is that the back of the oil pan has to be exactly flush with the back of the engine block. (just like the timing chain cover and the rear seal cover). I think the reason for this, is that it has to be flush with the block is so that the transmission will mate up flush with the oil pan and the engine block. I assume that the transmission bell housing or possibly the oil pan could be damaged if they were not flush when the transmission is torqued down. This may not be an issue on every install, I am willing to bet that you are possibly using an adapter to mate a Chrysler transmission to the LM7. What I am talking about may or may not be an issue for everyone. I just wanted to share some info that i have ran across, I hope that I am not incorrect on this topic. But it did seem like valid info, and I wanted to share it with you and others. Once again, thank you for your videos.
Still working on getting the engine running. I'm pretty sure I missed a step or I just didn't think it was critical enough to do. Think it's called " degreeing the camshaft to find TDC", I just made sure the dots were lined up and the #1 cylinder was in the up position.
Great to hear from you... My thoughts are the following.... When I researched "Degreeing a Cam", it became apparent to me that, all you are doing is verifying that the Cam that you have matches the Cam Specs and that it has the correct "Grind". There is no adjustment that you can make after following that process. I elected not to do it. I bought a production spec Cam. I guess I assume that it is correct. TDC... This term is from the old school of engines. With older engines, there was a need to know when the 1st cylinder was at TDC and you would adjust your distributor to, say 4 degree before TDC... Well guess what.... we do not have a distributor any more. "Spark" is managed by the Reluctor Wheel on the Crank shaft telling the PCM what position the Crank (piston position, TDC) is. The PCM manages the Spark ( old Distributor) and advances or retards the spark (old vacuum advance) based on tables, RPMS and TEMP. It's kind of a no brainer these days. I did see your latest video and the Timing marks do appear to be correct. The Timing Set marks are to make sure the CAM and CRANK are in synch (TIMED) with each other. Hope that helps a little. Mike
Thank you so much for getting back to me so soon. I thought the same thing about doing a cam degree and finding top dead center. It also seemed to me that all you're doing is verifying what's on the cam card that came with your camshaft. I just watched about 15 videos of 15 different guys doing degreeing the cam and all of them came out with exactly what the card said by just lining the dots up. I also read through the book a couple times and they pretty much say the same thing you're just verifying the numbers on the card. I don't want to sound lazy but I don't think I'm going to do this. At a minimum I think I'm going to go ahead and figure out top dead center again. Everybody that has done this has never said if the numbers are wrong what to do other then do it again. Thanks again.👽
When we rebuilt my 5.3 we were kinda winging it and the oil pan gaskets weren’t lined up, we didn’t realize it until the motor was in, been 2 years and hasn’t leaked yet! Haha!
Thank you very much. I believe Russ spends 2.5 hours per square Inch on Project Overkill. It is going to be perfect. I'm trying to balance Perfect and Good-Enough. Cheers and thanks for the nod!!!! Mike
Whats most important is that the seal is centered perfectly, not the pan rails. The gaskets and a little RTV will fix any issue in the rails, but an off center main seal is destined to leak.
I enjoyed the video by using the actual seal to help center the front & rear cover seals for centering. Knowing that not all engines are machine exactly the same, how did yours come out? No leaks? Just curious, no slam on you're chosen method, as I too and heading into this project. As a retired ASE Master Tech since the building had "Datsun" on the front of it, I am retired but have not worked on the "LS" type engines or this cast iron block truck engine. GM's eSI has some specs for deviation from flush, but they are using two $300 Kent-Moore tools in their instructions. Thanks for this fine innovative instructive video and hope all turned out well! How didd the "Melling" pump work out? Let me know, as I can no longer afford to physically do this again in the near future. Thanks, liked and subscribed!
The vehicle that this engine is being swapped into is still going through alterations and bodywork. The Melling Pumps are supposed to be a fantastic upgrade from the factory. Cheers! And thanks for watching.
Originally, I had never thought of "Centering" the Oil Pump. It was brought to my attention by my machinist. There is a process that uses multiple feeler gauges and I was prepared to do that. I was studying up on the exact procedure and ran across a Melling Video on there site that explained the process that I used. It was simple and I believe very effective. Cheers to you!!!!!
That would physically be another way... BUT! Just thinking logically, I would not use that approach. You could develop a leak on the surfaces where the covers and the pan touch. Here is why I think that. With the covers installed first, when you install the oil pan and torque it down, the surfaces at the pan and covers will get clamping pressure. If you were to install then in the opposite order, I do not believe you would be able to achieve that properly. That is already a trouble spot for leaks. Just my thoughts!
Thank you Sam! You have to love Russ' passion. He shares a wealth of information! While you guys are enjoying your finished 2nd gens, I will be starting my 1st gen!
Love the video very informative ... I'm not diggin the torque pattern on the front rear covers and the oil pan. My opinion never torque in a circle. Snug then top, bottom. Criss cross middle . May not make a difference just throwing it out there.
I just installed my cam and ordered new gaskets for everything . I’m about to install the timing cover & this is the video I was looking for. Straight forward and great detail . Thanks One question , is it necessary to add rtv after the gasket just to be extra safe for leaks? Or is this gasket enough
The new style gaskets DO NOT need RTV or any other sealer. The only place that you should apply sealer is at the four corners where the Front and Back covers meet the block. That is an area that is considered "Between" the gaskets. Cheers... and have fun with yours.... Mike!
Believe it or not, I am still working on Rowdy's bodywork and have not installed the engine yet. But I recall the research that I did on the Oil Pump and remember that while it is the Standard version, it pumps better than the EOM. It was not recommended to use the next higher performance oil pump unless you increased the oil pan capacity and plan to use the engine at higher rpms. The higher performance unit can suck you pan dry. The one that I used is supposed to be an excellent upgrade from stock. Cheers!!!!
I have not yet. At this point the Balancer is not fully installed on the shaft. I installed it just far enough to help with the alignment of that front cover. Not sure if I will need to remove it. I'll be able to finish it's installation after I attach the Flywheel. I have the Finish Bolt on the table in a particular place to remind me that it will need attention later! Thank Ron!
Nice work!! Well done! You missed the importance of lube on the front and rear seals before puting them on the balancer and the rear crank surface. The will fry in seconds if dry. I'm sure you lubed them but just never mentioned it. One suggestion: Let us know all the torque values you use. Your numbers obviously work and there is a lot of discrepancy on what value to use depending where we look. Two thumbs up! Professional video
Were did you by the DIY book you are going based on the videos are verry detailed and by far the best ones out there as far as quality and detailed information
Hey Mike, I have been following along with this series as part of my resources to rebuild my LS at the moment. Im currently up to this point and was just wondering how the front and rear seals held up without having the alignment tool. Did you experience any leaks around the seals or oil pan, or would you recommend this same method? Thanks for any help!
To be honest. I am still restoring the vehicle that this engine will be installed. But I will say that I would recommend this approach. There is no way that any tool would could get that alignment any closer than the method that I used. to the touch, it turned out flat like it was a single piece of metal. That particular area get a dab of sealant which just seals the deal anyhow. Have fun with your build. Sorry for the late reply. this message did not popup where I normally check for messages. Cheers! Mike
This is was beyond what any tech in a shop does. The alignment on the front cover is extreme overkill. I've never seen any tech be that meticulous and I've been turning wrenches since 2003 and became ase certified in 2006. I've never seen one leak due to an installation misalignment. Seen a few leak when they don't get seated properly, typically something between the block and cover that prevents it from seating properly. I'm not saying this way is incorrect by any means but it's definitely overkill on anything that's not an all out race car motor.
Actually Darren, the manual that I used for this build specifically states. "A thin film of oil applied to the engine cover surfaces will help the seals press into place ( this is talking about installing the seal into the front and rear cover). However, the seals themselves are designed to be installed dry - do not lubricate their inner rubber surface!". So I specifically did not lubricate them... You didn't miss it... I didn't do it!!!!
There are "Rebuild Kits" that include much of the hardware and components that are needed to d a rebuild. You just have to be careful where your particular build requires an adjusted size part due to some machining or other reason.
Hey sir I just watched your video, very detailed. I need to ask a question if you don't mind. I have a 2002 GMC yukon xl with a 5.3. I replaced spark plugs, wires, oil pressure sensor and valve cover gaskets. I started it up and it started misfiring. I got a code p0306. I swapped injector and coil, did compression check, and fuel pressure check. All good. I'm puzzled, on bank 1 I can disconnect the coil or injector and notice change in engine, bu or on bank 2, I can disconnect all coils or injector, no change. Plugs are firing, injectors has pulse. I sure hope someone reading this can offer some advice. Note, it was running fine before I put the new parts on it. I've scratched my head till I don't have to have a hair cut. Thanks to anyone that can help. One more thing, I swapped out 02 sensors, and disconnected exhaust manifold to cats still nothing. Have a great week.
Carlos Gutierrez Thank you Sir. I placed the old Flex plate back on the back side of the Crank and placed a bolt/nut through the flex plate and then used a clamp to not allow the flee plate to rotate. I believe I mentioned this in this or another video on this engine. Cheers. B
In Part of this series, I used a Bearing Separator and Puller Set that I had purchased for another project (Transmission Build). It worked perfectly. I believe you can Google for specific HB Pullers as well. For the Harmonic Balancer Installation Temporary Bolt, I used the following: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092). The 120mm length provides what you need to do it right. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the great video very easy to understand step by step thumbs up to you. Can you tell me what size bolt did you use for the install of the harmonic balancer thread ptch and size I would like to duplicate exactly what you have done thanks for the great video
Thank you for the kind words Nelson! The Temporary Bolt that I bought is: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092). I do think it is a good idea to use it because when I would place the Balancer on the Crank, the OLD bolt only threads on less than 1 turn. To try to use that bolt would damage the threads in the crank. Not worth the damage. Just so you know, I also purchased and used some Large Washers 3/4" x 2.00" (Fastenal # 1133018 for reference). During this video, I only installed the Balancer far enough to help me center the Timing cover. Now that that is done, I am thinking about removing the Balancer so that it is easier to paint the engine. Have fun with yours and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the kind words! For the Gen3 and Gen4 platform engines, they have a rear cover and the seal is mounted in the cover (as seen @ 11:34). It is a large diameter seal and I believe I used a flat board to help install it into the rear cover. Interestingly the manual stated to NOT pre-Lube the seal. It is to be installed dry. It is important that while tightening down the rear cover that you allow the seal to remain centered on the crank while aligning the lower two edges for the Oil Pan. This is all a complete redesign compared to the old 350 platform.
I did not buy the special tool! I am a bog believer that you need the right tool for each job, but sometimes you can get it done with what you have. I also do not like the thoughts of Special Tools!!!! My thoughts on this particular case. When you slide that cover and place the rubber seal over the crank.... it is going to "Self-Center". It naturally wants to rest where all of the pressures are equal. I just rotated it from the initial position until the bottom edges where flush with the bottom of the block and tightened it down. That was my approach.
Get yourself a good book! There are many out there. They will keep you heading in the right direction. In the "Show More" section under this video is a link to the one that I used. There are many others as well. They contain all the torque specs as well.
When installing most/all Double Roller Timing sets, (on any LS style engine), I believe you are required to install small spacers between the Oil Pump and the block. This provides the proper clearance due to the thicker size of the timing set. On top of those Spacers, you should be able to install any LS style Oil Pump. A word of caution on the High Volume Pump (you will need to decide). From my earlier research (may be inaccurate), I believe it was stated that the Standard Melling Oil Pump produces more flow than the stock GM Oil Pump. Therefore, just moving to the standard offering, you were doing an improvement. I was thinking that "more" was better and thought about installing the High Volume model. I was quickly warned that it is mostly used in race applications and that if you do not also increase the volume of your oil capacity, you could suck your sump (oil pan) empty. Again, I will let you do your own investigation on all of that. The over all answer to your question is Yes. Please make sure you understand the correct use of a High Volume Pump. Hope this helps!!!!
How do you keep the crankshaft from turning when tightening the harmonic balancer bolt? It seems that you would eventually start turning the crankshaft once the bolt starts to get deep in the crankshaft.
I used two thin coats of the VHT Engine Paint to finish it off. Was just looking to have it the same color as the engine. After I started putting it all together, I realize that I should have painted it Black! Don't tell anyone! Cheers
I will start with the fact that I am probably not the right person the give you that kind of advise... I do know that you either have an LM7 (mine) or L59 in your Yukon. This is the same engine as mine. The only difference in the L59 is that it has different Fuel injectors (Flex Fuel compatible). So here is where I will talk from an theory perspective..... If the list of items are things that you have already done, those sound like a great start. To dig deeper, you might consider a CAM (more Fuel and Air), Fuel Injectors (Especially if you have FF), and for Big $$$ different Heads (looking for higher compression). Now an idea on your "CHIP". A chip is trying to be a one-stop alteration to a standard engine configuration. If you make a bunch of other changes (Headers, Exhaust, CAM, anything AIR related... Does a standard "CHIP" make smart adjustments to a custom configuration? You might consider a Custom Tune, where someone uses your changes to make smart changes to the PCM. Just a thought!!!! Thank you for watching and the best of luck with your updates!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike did you paint it before or after you took it to machine shop for balancing? I'm curious if paint would throw off balance of rotating assembly
Fixing to rebuild my 5.3 lm7 putting a Brian Tooley racing stage 2 cam with all the goodies Milling oil pump Etc and I've noticed you don't give torque specs why is that !?
There are so many Torque specs used in this build. The Book that I followed had a section in the back that included all of the torque specs. You should really consider obtained a good written reference guide for those items. Otherwise: Laze, Liability, you would just have to write them down. The book of your choice can be had for a little as $25 or so. Cheers! Mike
buen trabajo, la que me espera a mi, suenan los botadores de mi astro 98 4.3 345/5000 when it changes the rings, it also replaces the part of the piston, my star makes noise like of punches, but I want to prepare for the worse it brings 4.3 vortex, that advises me, I have seen that if it can be repaired without disarming it all, I admire it, it makes a fantastic job, very detailed, happy new year from tijuana, mexico your server aldo francisco
I may have in the video. AS with all engines, you align the dots on the Crank Sprocket and the Cam Sprocket. In my case the Dots where very faintly painted on. Cheers!
Having issues with oil pump priming . It is not a new pump but it did pump good before head and cam swap. Put new o ring on pickup tube .4+ quarts of oil in motor on stand. Oil filter full . pulled plug out of left lower front of block to prime pump . Still no oil pressure on stand. Using 1/2 drill using balancer bolt heads on with no plugs in it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you have done everything required. Two things come to mind: 1) a dry pump gear will never draw a vaccum (I believe you have taken care of this) and 2) Did you install the correct O-Ring on the pickup tube? I believe there are at least two different styles of tube ends that require different size O-rings. A straw with a tiny hole will never draw liquid. Just a few thoughts!!!
I cannot remember if my kit came with a new gasket for the camshaft thrust plate. I do remember that it was relatively flat and believe I used a little silicone behind the gasket to help hold it in place and to space it out just a tad (technical term). I believe I will be in good shape there, but you point is excellent. Thanks
You know in hindsight to align that timing cover all you technically had to do was mach up oil pan leave the cover bolts loose on the front of the block... tighten the oil pan down to the block and the cover and that would have aligned everything ... then tighten the timing cover bolts. That would have put it dead on! Just my 2 cents.
I hear you and that is certainly another way to do it, but technically I believe the way that I did it is superior. The reason. I was able to tighten the front cover with the bottom edge flush. The oil pan then was tightened to that complete flush surface. All of my joints are tight. In your sensational, by tightening the oils pan down first you created a corner that the front cover had to be simultaneously pressed into the block and oil pan surface. That breaks all rules of logic in my head. If it works for you… go for it. I would not do it via your approach as I believe I would end up with a leak. Cheers. Mike!
Specifically for the front cover I also wanted to allow the balancer to self-center the front crank seal. My method allows for that. Your could slightly mover the cover up the block surface causing that seal to also be misaligned.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike ya your prob right the timing cover being squared up makes for more rigidity. You would need a truly leveled oil pan that isn't going to flex /bend. Timing cover material is likely built better then an oil pan making your way better .I agree after seeing your point
@@UCanDoIt2Mike What's the cost to do a mild cam and all parts rebuild even the block work. My brother is giving me his aluminum L33 5.3 from his 05 SILVERADO 4X4 I want to .30 over rebuild for my 02 s10 with a nicer cam
I'm guessing just pistons rings all new bearings and cam of choice and reuse the rods and crank ... Probably a nicer timing set and have the heads... redone What would you suggest? Are there any good necessary upgrades one ... should do with a 5.3 being a l33 block .
Hey Mike, You ever thought about having APB make a guest appearance on UCanDoit2 for episode of Rowdy Restoration? : ) Peace & Much Love... Keep Up Good Work!
Yea! I'm gonna get him out here someday and put him to work. He will have to work his way up. I'm gonna start him on handing me wrenches! Cheers Kenny!
Anyone else notice the double or triple clicking of the torque wrench everytime???? It’s a bad habit most people do but when it’s done it can actually cause the bolt to get over torqued
It's comical when keyboard mechanics manufacture technical theories. Double-clicking a torque wrench (1) does not rotate the fastener any further OR (2) damage the torque wrench. Certainly not worth having a lengthy conversation about!
UCanDoIt2 tats funny because mechanical engineers at Caterpillar in Lafayette, in show test PROVEN that it does effect the torque consistency. Sorry you’re too simple to understand.
I reused the original one, so I am not sure. Probably an easy search at Summit Racing or your favorite Auto Store. And it might be a little unique for your Engine configuration.
You are correct in that I DID NOT lubricate the inner seal per the instructions. The build guidebook that I followed stated the following: "However, the seals themselves are designed to be installed dry - do not lubricate their inner rubber surface!"
To what???? There was a lot of content covered in this video. Most books and manuals have pages of torque specs for all the fasteners. Not that they all need to be torqued.
I lost oil pressure and have a knocking sound thought it was in the top end after further investigation my lifters and rockers pushrods are ok I'm all about putting it back better then before what's your thought?
I have little experience with diagnosing a problem and tearing apart an engine to discover the cause. However, based on what I have learned and my limited experience, sounds like your Oil Pump went out and has possibly damaged one of the following: Cam lobes, Lifter, Push Rod, or Rocker. Just a thought.
That was our thought too it makes me nervous to tear it down or to have to pull it completely with out definitively knowing what the problem is or how severe
Love your videos, im about to dive into this project and will watch each video about 10 times. What books are you using for reference?
Thanks for the feedback! I used the following book. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
How much torque does the oil pump get?
@@christianespinoza3822 According to the Guide Book, 18 ft-lbs. You really need a guidebook. I used... GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
Still love your videos, after four years. Your attention to detail is still the standard for us shade tree mechanics. Thank you, sir.
It's all good stuff! I appreciate you following along!! Mike
Thanks you for taking the time out of your project to make these videos. I'm guessing it triples or more the amount of time it takes to do the actual task at hand. The videos are great quality and very well done and skipping the redundancy and meaningless chatter is much appreciated.
Thank you so much! I estimate that this process increases the effort about 3 to 4 times. The odd thing is.... I just plain enjoy it. I'm in no hurry. Thank you for taking the time to share your feedback. Your specific observations align and justify my current approach. Cheers to you! And have fun with your projects.
When I rebuild my lm7 your videos will help me. Thanks for posting this. One of the most useful vids on RUclips
Thank you for the kind words. Have fun with your build!
tx I finally understand why they say to put sealer on the corners of the oil pan gasket. thumbs up!!!!
Glad it helped. Good luck with your current or next project!!!!
man thank you!!!! I'm sitting over here watching every last vid lol. I also have a 5.3 that I'm about to break down and put in my 86' Iroc. your videos are straight forward and have attention to detail. truthfully I woulnt have attempted the bottom end but now?? I might give it a shot lol. keep up the great work.
Thank you for the feedback Rick. Get you a good book and just go for it! It's a great learning experience. Have fun!!!!
ill definetely keep you posted on my progress. thanks again!
Just want to say after watching your series about the ls engine I finally decided to drop my engine off at the machine shop I finally got it back and I feel confident jumping into putting my engine back together. I got the main caps and bearings done. When I do my 6.0 I want to do that one myself.
Awesome!!!! Surround yourself with plenty of information like a rebuild guide. Most importantly take your time, relax, and have fun learning something new!!! Cheers... Mike!
i love this so much, first off its amazing to see how precise you are on building this engine. second these engines look easy and i look forward to rebuilding mine. Right now I currently have a 2004 chevy avalanche and I make youtube videos on the truck repairing anything and everything. seriously man i love this video...
Thanks for the feedback! Cheers... Mike
Just Excelent...good job guys...peapole watching arround the planet
Hands down the best video series on RUclips. You are amazing! Thank you so much for these videos.
I greatly appreciate the feedback! That just plain makes me feel good! Glad you enjoyed and if you have a similar project, have fun with yours!!!!!!
doing every step on my new 5.3 right along with it thanks man!
Art Life Sweet!!! Have fun!
Thank you for putting the book you used in the description.
Call that boy "Blister"! Showed up after all the work was done!
He times his visits so that he can get an overview of what we accomplished.
Yes sir Russ does some great work. It's looking good. Keep at it. Cheers
Thank you Steve!
This is a great THIDI .thanks.
Nice build, I built a camed LM7 myself for my 99 WS6 went with flat top pistons sounds like a beast and eats tires.
Yours sound very cool! Love it! Now you just need to find a friend in the tire business to ease that pain. Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 Lol I know huh I usually just buy them cheap online and install them myself but im getting to old and fat lol
There is a sequence (side to side) to tightening the oil pan, even so... very nice attention to detail Sir
I think it mentions it on the bottom of the pan. What is the sequence?
Hey there, I"m really enjoying your videos on the 5.3 rebuild. I have a 5.3 that I need to rebuild. It's going into a 1968 Nova that i am restoring.
I just wanted to share with you something I have read about the oil pan installation. What I have read is that the back of the oil pan has to be exactly flush with the back of the engine block. (just like the timing chain cover and the rear seal cover).
I think the reason for this, is that it has to be flush with the block is so that the transmission will mate up flush with the oil pan and the engine block. I assume that the transmission bell housing or possibly the oil pan could be damaged if they were not flush when the transmission is torqued down.
This may not be an issue on every install, I am willing to bet that you are possibly using an adapter to mate a Chrysler transmission to the LM7. What I am talking about may or may not be an issue for everyone. I just wanted to share some info that i have ran across, I hope that I am not incorrect on this topic. But it did seem like valid info, and I wanted to share it with you and others.
Once again, thank you for your videos.
briankmizell thanks bro
Thank you for the video
Cheers to you Sir!
Esde mucha ayuda gracias por compartir los vídeos
feliz de que te hayan gustado los videos.
Still working on getting the engine running. I'm pretty sure I missed a step or I just didn't think it was critical enough to do. Think it's called " degreeing the camshaft to find TDC", I just made sure the dots were lined up and the #1 cylinder was in the up position.
Great to hear from you... My thoughts are the following.... When I researched "Degreeing a Cam", it became apparent to me that, all you are doing is verifying that the Cam that you have matches the Cam Specs and that it has the correct "Grind". There is no adjustment that you can make after following that process. I elected not to do it. I bought a production spec Cam. I guess I assume that it is correct. TDC... This term is from the old school of engines. With older engines, there was a need to know when the 1st cylinder was at TDC and you would adjust your distributor to, say 4 degree before TDC... Well guess what.... we do not have a distributor any more. "Spark" is managed by the Reluctor Wheel on the Crank shaft telling the PCM what position the Crank (piston position, TDC) is. The PCM manages the Spark ( old Distributor) and advances or retards the spark (old vacuum advance) based on tables, RPMS and TEMP. It's kind of a no brainer these days. I did see your latest video and the Timing marks do appear to be correct. The Timing Set marks are to make sure the CAM and CRANK are in synch (TIMED) with each other. Hope that helps a little. Mike
Thank you so much for getting back to me so soon. I thought the same thing about doing a cam degree and finding top dead center. It also seemed to me that all you're doing is verifying what's on the cam card that came with your camshaft. I just watched about 15 videos of 15 different guys doing degreeing the cam and all of them came out with exactly what the card said by just lining the dots up. I also read through the book a couple times and they pretty much say the same thing you're just verifying the numbers on the card. I don't want to sound lazy but I don't think I'm going to do this. At a minimum I think I'm going to go ahead and figure out top dead center again. Everybody that has done this has never said if the numbers are wrong what to do other then do it again. Thanks again.👽
great progress and Russ is a super guy
Thanks Drew! Yea, I like Russ' methodologies! Take care!
thank you for making these videos
Thank you for taking the time to leave your feedback! Makes me feel good! Cheers!
When we rebuilt my 5.3 we were kinda winging it and the oil pan gaskets weren’t lined up, we didn’t realize it until the motor was in, been 2 years and hasn’t leaked yet!
Haha!
That is good to know. It appears to be a little forgiving then. Cheers!
Damn bro, you got some fast hands!!! Lol
ilove your videos and rus' videos also project overkill camaro is amazing
Thank you very much. I believe Russ spends 2.5 hours per square Inch on Project Overkill. It is going to be perfect. I'm trying to balance Perfect and Good-Enough. Cheers and thanks for the nod!!!! Mike
Whats most important is that the seal is centered perfectly, not the pan rails. The gaskets and a little RTV will fix any issue in the rails, but an off center main seal is destined to leak.
So how do you get the seal perfectly centered. My rear main leaked slightly after I did the seal and plate.
I enjoyed the video by using the actual seal to help center the front & rear cover seals for centering. Knowing that not all engines are machine exactly the same, how did yours come out? No leaks? Just curious, no slam on you're chosen method, as I too and heading into this project. As a retired ASE Master Tech since the building had "Datsun" on the front of it, I am retired but have not worked on the "LS" type engines or this cast iron block truck engine. GM's eSI has some specs for deviation from flush, but they are using two $300 Kent-Moore tools in their instructions. Thanks for this fine innovative instructive video and hope all turned out well!
How didd the "Melling" pump work out? Let me know, as I can no longer afford to physically do this again in the near future. Thanks, liked and subscribed!
The vehicle that this engine is being swapped into is still going through alterations and bodywork. The Melling Pumps are supposed to be a fantastic upgrade from the factory. Cheers! And thanks for watching.
Nice Job Mike!
Thank you Ken! Cheers!
I really like this part, great idea @2:15
Originally, I had never thought of "Centering" the Oil Pump. It was brought to my attention by my machinist. There is a process that uses multiple feeler gauges and I was prepared to do that. I was studying up on the exact procedure and ran across a Melling Video on there site that explained the process that I used. It was simple and I believe very effective. Cheers to you!!!!!
I will definitely do this in my future builds!
Great build mike !!!!
Love the comment!!!!! Thanks for taking the time to leave your feedback!!! Tons of fun here! Mike
I’ve heard other people say to install the oil pan first and the front cover will sit on top of it to align
That would physically be another way... BUT! Just thinking logically, I would not use that approach. You could develop a leak on the surfaces where the covers and the pan touch.
Here is why I think that.
With the covers installed first, when you install the oil pan and torque it down, the surfaces at the pan and covers will get clamping pressure. If you were to install then in the opposite order, I do not believe you would be able to achieve that properly. That is already a trouble spot for leaks. Just my thoughts!
Engine is coming together. Hopeully you are leak free! Nice mail call for Russ.
Thank you Sam! You have to love Russ' passion. He shares a wealth of information! While you guys are enjoying your finished 2nd gens, I will be starting my 1st gen!
Mike, Thanks for the shout out, and kind words. The 5.3 looks great.
You are welcome! As I mentioned, I'm glued to your Project Overkill series. Thanks for all you do!
it's looking really cool Mike!
Starting to come together! Lifters and Heads are next!
Nice work!
Love the video very informative ... I'm not diggin the torque pattern on the front rear covers and the oil pan. My opinion never torque in a circle. Snug then top, bottom. Criss cross middle . May not make a difference just throwing it out there.
You should Definitely get the motor painted. For some added protection against the elements.
I just installed my cam and ordered new gaskets for everything . I’m about to install the timing cover & this is the video I was looking for. Straight forward and great detail . Thanks
One question , is it necessary to add rtv after the gasket just to be extra safe for leaks? Or is this gasket enough
The new style gaskets DO NOT need RTV or any other sealer. The only place that you should apply sealer is at the four corners where the Front and Back covers meet the block. That is an area that is considered "Between" the gaskets. Cheers... and have fun with yours.... Mike!
UCanDoIt2 ok. & is rtv brand ok to use on the 4 corners? Also, what size what the longer bolt you used to install the crank pulley
RTV should be fine for the corners. Harmonic Balancer Installation Temporary Bolt: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092).
UCanDoIt2 thank you sir
P.s. .... whats the Part number for that big 10 day wait bolt??? Thanks
How's the oil pressure on rowdy do you recommend the m295 oil pump you used on the video thanks
Believe it or not, I am still working on Rowdy's bodywork and have not installed the engine yet. But I recall the research that I did on the Oil Pump and remember that while it is the Standard version, it pumps better than the EOM. It was not recommended to use the next higher performance oil pump unless you increased the oil pan capacity and plan to use the engine at higher rpms. The higher performance unit can suck you pan dry. The one that I used is supposed to be an excellent upgrade from stock. Cheers!!!!
Nice video, Mike. DId you remove the special installation bolt and replace it with the proper bolt?
I have not yet. At this point the Balancer is not fully installed on the shaft. I installed it just far enough to help with the alignment of that front cover. Not sure if I will need to remove it. I'll be able to finish it's installation after I attach the Flywheel. I have the Finish Bolt on the table in a particular place to remind me that it will need attention later! Thank Ron!
Nice work!! Well done! You missed the importance of lube on the front and rear seals before puting them on the balancer and the rear crank surface. The will fry in seconds if dry. I'm sure you lubed them but just never mentioned it. One suggestion: Let us know all the torque values you use. Your numbers obviously work and there is a lot of discrepancy on what value to use depending where we look. Two thumbs up! Professional video
Not sure where you get your information, but the manual that I followed specifically mentioned to NOT Lube the round seals.
Were did you by the DIY book you are going based on the videos are verry detailed and by far the best ones out there as far as quality and detailed information
I bought mine on Amazon. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thank you so.much
Hey Mike, I have been following along with this series as part of my resources to rebuild my LS at the moment. Im currently up to this point and was just wondering how the front and rear seals held up without having the alignment tool. Did you experience any leaks around the seals or oil pan, or would you recommend this same method? Thanks for any help!
To be honest. I am still restoring the vehicle that this engine will be installed. But I will say that I would recommend this approach. There is no way that any tool would could get that alignment any closer than the method that I used. to the touch, it turned out flat like it was a single piece of metal. That particular area get a dab of sealant which just seals the deal anyhow. Have fun with your build. Sorry for the late reply. this message did not popup where I normally check for messages. Cheers! Mike
This is was beyond what any tech in a shop does. The alignment on the front cover is extreme overkill. I've never seen any tech be that meticulous and I've been turning wrenches since 2003 and became ase certified in 2006. I've never seen one leak due to an installation misalignment. Seen a few leak when they don't get seated properly, typically something between the block and cover that prevents it from seating properly. I'm not saying this way is incorrect by any means but it's definitely overkill on anything that's not an all out race car motor.
something you didn't touch on is the oil galley barbell, did it go in and did you use a stock one or aftermarket?
I thought I covered it. I installed a new barbell. It was a part of the kit that my machine shop created for me.
Did you reuse the original lower timing gear/oil pump drive or have to swap it when using the Melling?
I bought a new Timing Set. Which includes a new upper and lower gear and timing chain.
I'm sure you did this and I just didnt catch it, putting a smear of oil on the rear main and front crank seal. Another great video.
Actually Darren, the manual that I used for this build specifically states. "A thin film of oil applied to the engine cover surfaces will help the seals press into place ( this is talking about installing the seal into the front and rear cover). However, the seals themselves are designed to be installed dry - do not lubricate their inner rubber surface!". So I specifically did not lubricate them... You didn't miss it... I didn't do it!!!!
Outstanding, that's a good thing for an old mechanic to know!
I agree! Like you, half the reason I rebuilt this engine was to learn what the new stuff is all about! Cheers!
Can you buy all the hardware in a kit in case you lose some?
There are "Rebuild Kits" that include much of the hardware and components that are needed to d a rebuild. You just have to be careful where your particular build requires an adjusted size part due to some machining or other reason.
Hey sir I just watched your video, very detailed. I need to ask a question if you don't mind. I have a 2002 GMC yukon xl with a 5.3. I replaced spark plugs, wires, oil pressure sensor and valve cover gaskets. I started it up and it started misfiring. I got a code p0306. I swapped injector and coil, did compression check, and fuel pressure check. All good. I'm puzzled, on bank 1 I can disconnect the coil or injector and notice change in engine, bu or on bank 2, I can disconnect all coils or injector, no change. Plugs are firing, injectors has pulse. I sure hope someone reading this can offer some advice. Note, it was running fine before I put the new parts on it. I've scratched my head till I don't have to have a hair cut. Thanks to anyone that can help. One more thing, I swapped out 02 sensors, and disconnected exhaust manifold to cats still nothing. Have a great week.
How much did it cost to rebuild including the new parts
Parts List used on this build: Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
really like your videos, appreciate the time it took you to make them. How did you keep the crank from rotating when you put the H balancer on?
Carlos Gutierrez Thank you Sir. I placed the old Flex plate back on the back side of the Crank and placed a bolt/nut through the flex plate and then used a clamp to not allow the flee plate to rotate. I believe I mentioned this in this or another video on this engine. Cheers. B
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you very much. You sir a true gentleman.
Thank you. Great video. Would have been better with torque specs for the bolts. 🔩
Great videos thank you for posting. Do you have recommendation for a harmonic balancer puller? Also the bolt you used to install it?
In Part of this series, I used a Bearing Separator and Puller Set that I had purchased for another project (Transmission Build). It worked perfectly. I believe you can Google for specific HB Pullers as well. For the Harmonic Balancer Installation Temporary Bolt, I used the following: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092). The 120mm length provides what you need to do it right. Hope this helps!
UCanDoIt2 thank you
how come I do not see any freeze plugs on the side of that block?
Thanks for the great video very easy to understand step by step thumbs up to you. Can you tell me what size bolt did you use for the install of the harmonic balancer thread ptch and size I would like to duplicate exactly what you have done thanks for the great video
Thank you for the kind words Nelson! The Temporary Bolt that I bought is: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092). I do think it is a good idea to use it because when I would place the Balancer on the Crank, the OLD bolt only threads on less than 1 turn. To try to use that bolt would damage the threads in the crank. Not worth the damage. Just so you know, I also purchased and used some Large Washers 3/4" x 2.00" (Fastenal # 1133018 for reference). During this video, I only installed the Balancer far enough to help me center the Timing cover. Now that that is done, I am thinking about removing the Balancer so that it is easier to paint the engine. Have fun with yours and thanks for watching!
What head bolts did you use, great video series by the way!
All of the parts that were used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
Very very informative video! What is the process for installing the rear main seal??
Thanks for the kind words! For the Gen3 and Gen4 platform engines, they have a rear cover and the seal is mounted in the cover (as seen @ 11:34). It is a large diameter seal and I believe I used a flat board to help install it into the rear cover. Interestingly the manual stated to NOT pre-Lube the seal. It is to be installed dry. It is important that while tightening down the rear cover that you allow the seal to remain centered on the crank while aligning the lower two edges for the Oil Pan. This is all a complete redesign compared to the old 350 platform.
UCanDoIt2 did you use the special tool that they sell to keep the cover completely centered on the crank hub?
I did not buy the special tool! I am a bog believer that you need the right tool for each job, but sometimes you can get it done with what you have. I also do not like the thoughts of Special Tools!!!! My thoughts on this particular case. When you slide that cover and place the rubber seal over the crank.... it is going to "Self-Center". It naturally wants to rest where all of the pressures are equal. I just rotated it from the initial position until the bottom edges where flush with the bottom of the block and tightened it down. That was my approach.
UCanDoIt2 thank you for your help. Your videos are gonna help me finish my LC9 build
Get yourself a good book! There are many out there. They will keep you heading in the right direction. In the "Show More" section under this video is a link to the one that I used. There are many others as well. They contain all the torque specs as well.
Can I use a melling high volume unit with a double roller timing chain on my 5.3 LM7. Same as yours.
When installing most/all Double Roller Timing sets, (on any LS style engine), I believe you are required to install small spacers between the Oil Pump and the block. This provides the proper clearance due to the thicker size of the timing set. On top of those Spacers, you should be able to install any LS style Oil Pump. A word of caution on the High Volume Pump (you will need to decide). From my earlier research (may be inaccurate), I believe it was stated that the Standard Melling Oil Pump produces more flow than the stock GM Oil Pump. Therefore, just moving to the standard offering, you were doing an improvement. I was thinking that "more" was better and thought about installing the High Volume model. I was quickly warned that it is mostly used in race applications and that if you do not also increase the volume of your oil capacity, you could suck your sump (oil pan) empty. Again, I will let you do your own investigation on all of that. The over all answer to your question is Yes. Please make sure you understand the correct use of a High Volume Pump. Hope this helps!!!!
Where did u find the longer HB bolt at?
Harmonic Balancer Installation Temporary Bolt: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092).
How do you keep the crankshaft from turning when tightening the harmonic balancer bolt? It seems that you would eventually start turning the crankshaft once the bolt starts to get deep in the crankshaft.
Fantastic question! I answer this in Part 7. Check out Part 7 at this location... ruclips.net/video/UeYfDW8u6-c/видео.htmlm4s
Was your crank pulley painted or just media blasted? Looks great, makes me want to pull mine off and clean and paint it.
I used two thin coats of the VHT Engine Paint to finish it off. Was just looking to have it the same color as the engine. After I started putting it all together, I realize that I should have painted it Black! Don't tell anyone! Cheers
hey I have a 2002 gmc yukon slt with 5.3 looking to just add some good power outside exhaust headers chip and intake anything you suggest?
I will start with the fact that I am probably not the right person the give you that kind of advise... I do know that you either have an LM7 (mine) or L59 in your Yukon. This is the same engine as mine. The only difference in the L59 is that it has different Fuel injectors (Flex Fuel compatible). So here is where I will talk from an theory perspective..... If the list of items are things that you have already done, those sound like a great start. To dig deeper, you might consider a CAM (more Fuel and Air), Fuel Injectors (Especially if you have FF), and for Big $$$ different Heads (looking for higher compression). Now an idea on your "CHIP". A chip is trying to be a one-stop alteration to a standard engine configuration. If you make a bunch of other changes (Headers, Exhaust, CAM, anything AIR related... Does a standard "CHIP" make smart adjustments to a custom configuration? You might consider a Custom Tune, where someone uses your changes to make smart changes to the PCM. Just a thought!!!! Thank you for watching and the best of luck with your updates!
Did you paint your harmonic balancer?
I did. I taped off all of the thin rubber sections as I knew the paint would not stick very long to those areas.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike did you paint it before or after you took it to machine shop for balancing? I'm curious if paint would throw off balance of rotating assembly
After the machine shop work. I rotated it while painting to attempt to lay an even coat.
Fixing to rebuild my 5.3 lm7 putting a Brian Tooley racing stage 2 cam with all the goodies Milling oil pump Etc and I've noticed you don't give torque specs why is that !?
There are so many Torque specs used in this build. The Book that I followed had a section in the back that included all of the torque specs. You should really consider obtained a good written reference guide for those items.
Otherwise: Laze, Liability, you would just have to write them down. The book of your choice can be had for a little as $25 or so.
Cheers! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike absolutely thanks Mike ! I did a pain the spec sheet still enjoy watching your videos thank you very much brother
@@banette36 I appreciate the feedback. Glad you found some value in them and most importantly, have fun with your build! Mike
did you replace all your bolts? if so, what kit did you use?
Everything I used is listed here. bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
buen trabajo, la que me espera a mi, suenan los botadores de mi astro 98 4.3
345/5000
when it changes the rings, it also replaces the part of the piston, my star makes noise like of punches, but I want to prepare for the worse it brings 4.3 vortex, that advises me, I have seen that if it can be repaired without disarming it all, I admire it, it makes a fantastic job, very detailed, happy new year from tijuana, mexico your server aldo francisco
Muchas gracias! Good luck with the repairs on your 4.3 Astro engine.
No oil pan gasket rivets?
Did You skip the cam to crank timing
I may have in the video. AS with all engines, you align the dots on the Crank Sprocket and the Cam Sprocket. In my case the Dots where very faintly painted on. Cheers!
Also, what timing set is that?
S.A. Gear 73133
Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
Having issues with oil pump priming . It is not a new pump but it did pump good before head and cam swap. Put new o ring on pickup tube .4+ quarts of oil in motor on stand. Oil filter full . pulled plug out of left lower front of block to prime pump . Still no oil pressure on stand. Using 1/2 drill using balancer bolt heads on with no plugs in it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you have done everything required. Two things come to mind: 1) a dry pump gear will never draw a vaccum (I believe you have taken care of this) and 2) Did you install the correct O-Ring on the pickup tube? I believe there are at least two different styles of tube ends that require different size O-rings. A straw with a tiny hole will never draw liquid. Just a few thoughts!!!
I cannot remember if my kit came with a new gasket for the camshaft thrust plate. I do remember that it was relatively flat and believe I used a little silicone behind the gasket to help hold it in place and to space it out just a tad (technical term). I believe I will be in good shape there, but you point is excellent. Thanks
I definitely did not purchase a new Plate. But I do remember adding silicone behind the gasket. Thanks!
I thought there was a specific pattern to torqueing an oil pan too prevent it warping?
Could be... the torque setting is so light that I doubt you could inflict any damage here!
I believe in the past it was because of the oil pans thinness.
Thanks again for sharing.
apparently u don't think the timing cover/ crankshaft alignment shims r the way to do it
If you have those tools or want to buy them, go for it. My approach will result in the same outcome. Cheers.
How much to rebuild my 5.3 please
You'll need to find a good local resource. I am eyebrows deep in my own restoration. Cheers and best of luck!
Also what was the torque on the oil pickup tube bolt?
106 in-lbs.
you wouldn't happen to have been in the army were you ? lol you said (squared away)
Interesting.... No, just something that my Dad use to say and he wasn't from a military background either. Cheers!
You know in hindsight to align that timing cover all you technically had to do was mach up oil pan leave the cover bolts loose on the front of the block... tighten the oil pan down to the block and the cover and that would have aligned everything ... then tighten the timing cover bolts. That would have put it dead on!
Just my 2 cents.
I hear you and that is certainly another way to do it, but technically I believe the way that I did it is superior. The reason. I was able to tighten the front cover with the bottom edge flush. The oil pan then was tightened to that complete flush surface. All of my joints are tight. In your sensational, by tightening the oils pan down first you created a corner that the front cover had to be simultaneously pressed into the block and oil pan surface. That breaks all rules of logic in my head. If it works for you… go for it. I would not do it via your approach as I believe I would end up with a leak. Cheers. Mike!
Specifically for the front cover I also wanted to allow the balancer to self-center the front crank seal. My method allows for that. Your could slightly mover the cover up the block surface causing that seal to also be misaligned.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike ya your prob right the timing cover being squared up makes for more rigidity. You would need a truly leveled oil pan that isn't going to flex /bend. Timing cover material is likely built better then an oil pan making your way better .I agree after seeing your point
@@UCanDoIt2Mike
What's the cost to do a mild cam and all parts rebuild even the block work.
My brother is giving me his aluminum L33 5.3 from his 05 SILVERADO 4X4
I want to .30 over rebuild for my 02 s10 with a nicer cam
I'm guessing just pistons rings all new bearings and cam of choice and reuse the rods and crank ... Probably a nicer timing set and have the heads... redone
What would you suggest? Are there any good necessary upgrades one ... should do with a 5.3 being a l33 block .
What did you torque the oil pump bolts to?
18 ftlbs
Hey Mike, You ever thought about having APB make a guest appearance on UCanDoit2 for episode of Rowdy Restoration?
: )
Peace & Much Love... Keep Up Good Work!
Yea! I'm gonna get him out here someday and put him to work. He will have to work his way up. I'm gonna start him on handing me wrenches! Cheers Kenny!
Just last week, he sent me a photo form when we rebuilt the engine from his C10. I'm going to try to squeeze that photo in one of the upcoming videos.
What is used to clean mateing surface
For this section I was using Brake Clean as I was trying to remove a sticky film. This helped provide a good clean surface.
painting the block???????
Anyone else notice the double or triple clicking of the torque wrench everytime???? It’s a bad habit most people do but when it’s done it can actually cause the bolt to get over torqued
It's comical when keyboard mechanics manufacture technical theories. Double-clicking a torque wrench (1) does not rotate the fastener any further OR (2) damage the torque wrench. Certainly not worth having a lengthy conversation about!
UCanDoIt2 tats funny because mechanical engineers at Caterpillar in Lafayette, in show test PROVEN that it does effect the torque consistency. Sorry you’re too simple to understand.
Part number for harmonic balancer?
I reused the original one, so I am not sure. Probably an easy search at Summit Racing or your favorite Auto Store. And it might be a little unique for your Engine configuration.
I didn't see you lube that front balancer seal...?
You are correct in that I DID NOT lubricate the inner seal per the instructions. The build guidebook that I followed stated the following: "However, the seals themselves are designed to be installed dry - do not lubricate their inner rubber surface!"
? ....!
What are the torque specs
To what???? There was a lot of content covered in this video. Most books and manuals have pages of torque specs for all the fasteners. Not that they all need to be torqued.
I lost oil pressure and have a knocking sound thought it was in the top end after further investigation my lifters and rockers pushrods are ok I'm all about putting it back better then before what's your thought?
I have little experience with diagnosing a problem and tearing apart an engine to discover the cause. However, based on what I have learned and my limited experience, sounds like your Oil Pump went out and has possibly damaged one of the following: Cam lobes, Lifter, Push Rod, or Rocker. Just a thought.
That was our thought too it makes me nervous to tear it down or to have to pull it completely with out definitively knowing what the problem is or how severe
I cringed when he tapped the front cover with his torque wrench. Calibration won’t stay accurate for too long like that.