This guy is great!! Very informative. I had a 2008 4.8 Silverado and loved that truck and engine. It took bolt ons really well. Extremely easy to work on. Sadly i sold it. But will buy another one, used of course. I posses enough tools and mechanical knowledge to rebuild an engine like this gentleman has. Bravo sir!
I have enjoyed EVERYTHING from start to now. It's like being in a mechanics class. Very detailed and informative. Thank God for guys like this. Who don't mind sharing they're experience to help others.
I've watched every episode up until now and I just can't get over how well this build and set of videos is put together/going. ! VERY professionally done. I am going to attempt a project like this with an '89 YJ one day; but for now, I'm just soaking this stuff in. After watching your videos I am getting amped up and can't wait for your finished product! I love how you are taking your time with every step and going out of your way to explain and show little tips and tricks. THANK YOU I was wondering if you could ever put up a "how to" vid on making one of these vids. what all goes in to it (the process). what equipment/ program is required. i would like to at least record myself rebuilding mine--
Love this comment Johnny!!!! I love this project as it is a great balance for me of: (1) Research, (2) Educating myself, (3) Execution, (4) Record what I am doing for the sake of remembering what I've done, (5) Editing all the work so that it is enjoyable and worthwhile to watch, (6) No Timeline (lately other items have taken precedence), and (7) thoroughly enjoying rewards of the work and great comments like yours. If there is enough interest, I would be willing to do a "Behind the Scenes" video showing what I do to produce these. I constantly wonder the same thing about channels that I subscribe to.... How do they do it!!!!Thanks for the kind words !!!!!
Thanks for making this series of videos. Extremely helpful. I was fairly confident that the engine block cover bolt holes were blind, but couldn't find confirmation if a thread sealer was needed. This is the added boost I needed to carry on!
Seen this series of videos a couple of times now I always use project rowdy as a go to ,so far u are the only person/ video that I've seen that has gone into depths about the torque that needs to be used and the clearance of anything internal [plasti gauges] everyone else skips these important details that I've been looking for ,congratulations can wait to get to the last video of this build again ,always rewarding when u do it urself
Love this comment!!!!! I appreciate that the details helped you out. As I mentioned in the Intro Video, I was going to try to include everything. Cheers to you Sir!!!! Mike
Thanks for the tips on masking off the water pump and holding the crank from rotating. Sometimes have to get creative when doing a 2 person job by yourself. My younger brother Robert just installed a built 6.0 in his 2001 transam over Christmas and got it running. I might post a video on it even though I didn't help any. Lol it was cool to see both engines go together.
I can't wait to see what "Rowdy" looks like and sounds like. I watch your Project Rowdy playlist in my garage while I'm working on my CJ7 project. Another great video and, as always, tons of information ... I've picked up some cool tips, keep up the great work.
Great videos been watching all of them so far. Good looking engine. I just have two things. You don't need to bounce the torque wrench and you shouldn't use an extension with a torque wrench when ever possible.
Glad you enjoyed the videos! I do however disagree with you on the use of a Torque Wrench. Somewhere in the comments in this series, I posted a lengthy discussion on it if you are interested. Both double clicking and use of extensions are a myth!! Anyway... Thanks for watching and enjoy your projects!!!
Just happen to stumble accross these videos. Very nice job and informative. Good to see you working with your sons teaching them. Wish my dad had taught me engine building or any hobby for that matter. But good job and keep them coming.
I've really enjoyed these videos. My old 2002 Avalanche has the same LS engine with 473,000 original miles. So far, I've replaced the alternator, water pump, knock sensors, and plugs (3 times). That's it. GM got it right when they designed that engine. I also have an almost stock 2004 Jeep TJ Wrangler. Hmmmm....
I know it is too late to mention this. Almost one year later! I have reviewed your entire series and I am impressed! But in this session you show installing the valley cover. I believe you have your "knock sensor to valley cover grommets" installed upside down. These are the grommets that are pressed into the bottom of the KS towers (not the ones on top that have the wires in them). When the valley cover is out, and laying on a flat surface with bottom facing upwards, the two knock sensor "towers" are then facing up. Install the grommets so that the "flat surface" of the grommet are facing up also. Yours are facing down. I rechecked the OEM GM manual, and it shows the the flat facing up. The book you have used to help take apart and reassemble this engine, does not explain this in detail. I know, I have one also. I also checked other sources, and the flat faces up. When you install the cover, it should slip down over the engine KS bosses, and stay put. In your video, because the grommets are reversed, the cover wants to pop up (look at your video and see this). When I saw your cover wanting to pop up, I knew something was wrong. Then I ran the video back slow, and noticed what was the problem. Hope this makes sense. If you want, I can email you a diagram as to what direction is the correct install. If you can find evidence that I am wrong, by all means let me know. I am going what my OEM GM manual shows in its diagram, and from sources of videos where folks are removing valley covers that are virgin - and all show I am correct. Please let me know what evidence you have uncovered if you can show me wrong. Then I will contact GM engineering and find out what is going on. The entire series is a top notch production!!
Joe, Thanks for the details. I do understand what you are talking about. I might have an opportunity to remove the intake soon and if I do, I will take a look at this. Thanks again for the kind correction to my mistake. Cheers!
great job! nice attention to detail! you can also put a long rope in cylinder via spark plug hole to prevent the engine to turn but you have to make shure to be in compression stroke before...
Having been an Auto Technician for 30 years I don’t really consider myself a fan of any certain brand of vehicles. They all have their weak points and engineering goof ups. Having said that, I personally think the LS engine platform is the best small block V8 ever mass produced in an American vehicle. They aren’t perfect but they are close.
That was pretty funny....in my mind this is what played out. Wife starts smelling an odd smell so she heads to the garage to investigate.....as she rounds the corner she spots the camera and hits reverse immediately. Engine is looking great man!
That is exactly what happened! She knows to approach with caution. While I was tightening that bolt, I was shaking my head. She finally saw me and kicked in her best "Back Stroke". I'm going to show her your comment and she is going to laugh!!!
That 6.0 will sit pretty sweet in the Skylark. I am beginning to think through my approach to the wiring and how I can go through it methodically. I am wanting to remove all unused wires and clean it up. My engine harness has a bunch of Automatic transmission wires that I will be removing. I know that the approach that I take will apply to yours, you will just have to "keep" is a few places where I "Pitched". Some of my approach is based on what I learned from your wiring video! What a fantastic platform to share information! Thank you!!!!!!
Great videos! Were you able to stretch the balancer bolt in one motion after the initial torque? Lot of info on the web is suggesting the final torque to be 240 lbs. It would be interesting to do an experiment: Do the initial torque at 37 lbs then put the degree wheel on and set your torque wrench at 240 lbs. Start the stretch and stop when you get tor the correct degree and if it click first just keep going tell you get to the correct degree. I have a friend the works at the dealer and does a lot of these, his advice to me was he uses blue locktite and hits it with his 1/2 inch impact gun.
It would be interesting to know the difference. I believe you can get a very accurate torque at the lower settings and then the angle provides the proper stretch. Some Engineer came up with this sucking down some coffee in the break room.... Cheers! Mike
Like the video series! I'm gonna start to build my 5.3 lm7 soon. Planing on stock crank,K1 rods, wiseco pistons, With an comp cam turbo crank shaft and ls6 heads with comp cam valve train upgrade kit and a holley sniper intake. Also slapping on 65 mm turbos.
WOW! That sounds like it will run like a scalded dog! That will include a lot of upgraded parts compared to mine, but what is cool is the process of your build should be similar. My original thought was to start with an L33 which comes with those LS6 Heads. Have fun with your project and let me know how it turned out. Happy New Year!
ya gonna have a th400, 9inch rear end and bmr suspension , gonna take about 2-3 year just due to cost of parts, but goal is get it all done run it na till i have for the turbo kit and suspension then put those in
I like the fact that you have a realistic 2 step plan. That will allow you to enjoy it while saving up for a second wave. Understanding up front that you are stepping into a long term endeavor is important to it's success. What will all this "Get up and Go" be install in?
moving along good painted and love the degree wheel works well thanks for the step by step videos awesome stuff happy new year also thanks for the great shout out
UCanDoIt2 Hello Sir how or what method did use to paint the harmonic balancer and not paint the rubber? I will say your explanation of building the engine and the steps are excellent. The information is easy to follow and use keep up the good work
Beau -- On the Harmonic Balancer, I cut thin strips of masking tape to mask off that little rubber area between the inner and outer hubs on both front and back. I also placed a tight wadded paper towel in the center hole to help avoid paint getting in the center hole. Also because this is part of the rotating assembly, be methodical and try to lay an even coat of paint on it. I was surprised how well it turned out and after all of the parts started coming together, I realized that I probably should have painted the Balancer BLACK to match all of the other rotating pulleys. Don't tell anybody, that will be our secret! Best of luck with your build and have fun with it!!!!!
Thanks 265! It's been a lot of fun so far. I've been watching your channel for a couple of months now! About when the T-Shirt crap started. But let's not bring that up! Cheers! The house repairs look nice!
Rkilling1 i had reset the gauge after the crank returned to the lockout position. It was ultimately tighten with the clamp at the top. Thanks for watching.
I noticed that a mistake was made with the coolant crossover / steam vent tube setup on this engine. You are running the later cheapened stock setup that can cause a piston to break apart from detonation in the rear cylinder (usually #7 instead of #8). For some reason under certain conditions the rear knock sensor will not detect the ping in the rear cylinder caused by hot spots from the lack of venting the steam pocket. My father had his 2006 cutaway Chevy Express 2500 with the 6.0L engine put a rod thru the side of the block because of this problem. Simply driving thru Bessemer, Alabama on a 80 degree afternoon and boom. Only had just under 240k highway miles on it at the time. The older crossover /steam vent tube was a H shaped one piece pipe that went under the intake manifold. There should be a way to convert your existing setup to this some how.
That is interesting!!!! Would not be hard to find a vent tube system that connects all four vent ports, I have seen and am familiar with the tube that you describe. A little odd that an engine with 240K miles in it with a potential back rear know sensor on it and you point to the vent tubes. I thought I have seen example of people with the 4 port tube, purposely block off the rears and go with what I have. Would love to hear form others on there opinion. That would be an easy change to make! THANK YOU for the idea.
I have a 2007 Suburban with a 5.3, (with Active Fuel Management if that maters) I'm finishing up an install of a remanufactured engine I bought from the Chevy dealer. My original engine had the vent tubes on the front and provisions on the back with caps/covers. The remanufactured engine has the back sealed/plugged permanently so you can't install a rear tube at all.
Another great episode! BTW you should wear a respirator, I've had an incredible headacke issue one day when I was doing a valve covers painting, since then I've never paint any things without a respirator. The funny thing is when I've watched this EP I was thinking of asking you about some wiring harness tutorial and then I'm scrolling down to the comments section and first thing I see is the same request that +MontanaLowGear has already wrote! :)) Waiting for your future videos, great job! P.S. - I'm working on LS-based 7,6L race engine swap now (into '99 e46 BMW) as well :)
I have a couple of Respirators and just forget to use them until I about half way through the job! And you are right, I have to start using them! Yep, I'm working out my approach on tackling the wiring harness which will be next.The LS in an E46 would be bad ass! We have a 2000 328 E46. Love that car, so easy to work on. It's old enough that it needs a lot of work, but it is so easy, and I find the parts are cheap. You should consider some videos of that swap. I'm in! Thanks!
I believe I used Simple Green and Mineral Spirits (separately) with a scrub brush. I have since heard people having good luck with Oven Cleaner. I did have to use a screw driver to break up the build-up inside the ports. Cheers!
Great job!!! You are one of the few people that are as picky as me when I do a build. I have just built Chevy 350's in the past. This was a lot of help. I'm looking to build a 6.0 for towing in a 2500. I do want to ask a question and it may show my ignorance. Is there a reason for not using the cordless drill for snugging all bolts before the torquing? Thanks again.
This engine has so many similarities to the older SBC, but they have moved some things around (ie oil pump and others). Regarding the cordless drill... In the manual that I followed, it made a great point as to why NOT TO USE a pneumatic impact driver on the engine. The gist of the point was that people press down on a bolt, then pull the trigger, when that bolt reaches the top and is still in a high pressures spinning action, you are damaging those first threads. I thought this was a good point. I am not anal about things like this and I know that you could get the bolt started and then let off the downward pressure.... BUT, I just thought I would do it by hand. Most of the time, we would use the old school wobble wrench and sometimes, we would grab a ratchet. I actually meant to mention some of this in the video and forgot. Bottom line, just a personal preference. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching good luck with your 6.0!
Could you tell me what the torque spec on the lifter valley cover is? I know this is an older series but I'm hoping you're still monitoring the comments. Thank you!
Hey what is the line called that your installing back on @ 10:35 in the video? And what torque does it get set at pls? I have to out my back on and im not sure what it is and what torque to set it at. Thanks GREAT and thorough videos. Much appreciated
Awesome! Thank you for your timely response. Man I've leaned on your videos heavily, and others, to do this job on my truck (DOD DELETE) due to a bad lifter. Thanks again.
Awesome! Thank you for your timely response. Man I've leaned on your videos heavily, and others, to do this job on my truck (DOD DELETE) due to a bad lifter. Thanks again.
Great vid, Mike. I'm trying to catch up. The engine sure looks great with the new paint. Dry seal? I thought that was weird too. I really like those intake gaskets.
I appreciate that Russ. I did ultimately like the Intake gaskets as well as they snapped into place and there was no real threat of them shifting when the intake went on. Thank you Sir!
Thank you John. The reference manual that I followed throughout this build included Torque Specs within the instructions as well as in a table in the back of the publication. Here is the book the I used: GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
Well the good news is it looks like it was painted yesterday... the bad news is that the engine has not been installed in my Jeep yet! Therefore we have not run it yet. That VHT is Heat resistant and should hold up extremely well.
Liked the video But at 12:17 you talked about the torque sequence I noticed you didn't to any of that with the other gaskets (etc) up until now Would that cause any issues in the future?
The book that I followed mentions torque sequences for some items and not for others. If you study the Torque Sequences, the statement that I made at 12:17, I feel is very accurate. It could be apply to every item that is installed. A Torque Sequence is very important for tightening items down evenly and reducing stress on the item near the fastener that is being tightened at the time. Things like: Main Crank Bearings, Heads, Intake, Valve Cover, and the Oil Pan are items that this would apply to the most. The only items that I can think of that I did not apply this was the Front and Rear Covers. I believe I went around in a circle on them, but I did do them in stages (Snug, half way, torqued). You are trying to avoid cracking thin items and warping others. Hope this helps. You are very observant and this was a great question. Cheers!
🇺🇲 I know this was 4 years ago but I have a question, I have a 05 GMC 1500 4wd 4 door with the 5.3 LM7. I was thinking of getting the Diablo tuner, it adds up to 30 hp or so im told, my question is do you think my stock 4L60E transmission can handle 30 more? It weighs roughly 5500lbs and its my daily driver. I really want to change my lazy shift points and if I can get away with it I'd like to add 20 or 30 hp and a little torque. Im real nice to it and I don't tow anything but my fat ass and my dirtbike. 🇺🇲
Hey there. Love your vids. I plan on using them in the near future as a guide to rebuild a 6.0 lq9/lq4 and put them in my ‘75 caprice. I have a few questions if you don’t mind. What engine stand are you using and would it be adequate for a 6.0 iron block? Would it be smart to buy a stripped block as I plan on touching every part as you have just to prevent future headaches? Or should I buy complete and replace as I go? Also are there any tips/tricks/advice you could recommend? This would absolutely be my first dive into motor repair. Thanks for any help.
Medium grade Harbor Freight Engine Stand. These engines are heavy Stripped Block - That would work well as you might plan to replace most of the items as I did. I typically learn a lot from the disassembly process. You need a repair manual to follow and learn from. I used. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
This build up has been great UCanDoIt2! Thanks for taking the time and showing all the little details. I am out of Atlanta , Ga and will be shopping for a 5.3 for a 66 c10 fairly soon. Where did you get yours and how much was it?
Jason, Thanks for the message! The kind words that you stated make it all worth the while. I purchased my 2001 LM7 5.3L from S&W in Lithonia, GA (East of Atlanta) for $600. I had a great experience with them. I worked with Gary McQuithy (Engine specialist) 770-482-9500. I called him first and he walked me through their process over the phone. Then when I went to look at his selection, he gave me a tour of the place. Very professional!!!!! Best of luck with your project and thanks for following along!!!!!
check out LKQ parts you pull they have several 40% off days every year. I picked up a LM7 on new years for 300 bucks out the door. also there are 2 locations in GA and they occasionally have some LM4s too.
The old Valley Pan Gasket (I assume you are talking about the round grommets at the Knock Sensors) are pinched between the Knock Sensors and the block. I removed my Knock Sensors before the Valley Pan and so they very easily separated. Torque Spec : 18 ft-lbs.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike awesome yeah I soaked them over night in penetrating oil and knocked them out with a piece of tube and a rubber mallet and they came out easy. I looked for videos on how to get the old grommets out and couldn't find anything showing the process but your video was the most helpful so thanks for posting it!
Thank you Sir!!!! The "Rebuild Kit" was put together by my Machinist for the parts that I needed. Not really one that you would find that has a "Kit" Part Number. They worked directly with their supplier to gather all the parts that I needed. Cheers!!!!!
If the 8th digit is a T, you have an LM7 5.3L. They where offered between 99-07. 285-295Hp, 325-335ftlb torque. The same engine as I have in this video series.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike ouch!! I order the LS3 HB 😞 but I did order that 2013 Camaro Water Pump tho. I’m going to be uploading my 5.3 set up like yours real soon. Can’t wait to shout you out for this ideal.
I listed it in the description of this video. From a computer, use the “SHOW MORE” to see the details. From a phone or tablet, use the drop down arrow below the video to expand and see the details.
Yes sir! I bought it online at Fastenal (SKU # 11127092 $6.62). In case you would like to locate it somewhere else, the specs are: M16-2.0 X 120mm. You are the second person to inquire, so I will be adding this reference to the Description are below that video to help others!! Best of luck with your project, Anthony!!!!!!
I also found that most places charge about $30 for the Replacement Harmonic Balancer Bolt ( the one that you will leave on permanently). I found it on Amazon for $12 (amzn.to/2stbxev).
Hey! I don't mean to keep bugging you but how many miles did this engine have on it when you got it? What range of mileage would you suggest for a project? Is there a certain mileage that would be considered too high?
My engine had about 180K on it. Wow... the next part is difficult to answer and I hope some more qualified people will chime in here. Here is my logical answer!!! An abused engine with 150K might have stress issues and a well maintained 250K engine may be the perfect candidate. An engine from a salvaged truck that was hit in the rear may be a good candidate as it was salvaged due to accident and possibly not engine issues. The Salvage yard that I purchased mine from had the engine already out of the truck. But they have a routine that they perform that identifies the best candidates. They also offer a warranty (only of you don't take it apart). It's a crap shoot! Most issues can be solved with installing new parts. The Block and Heads are the skeletal parts that you are hoping are issue free! Don't worry about asking questions.... This is part of your research and these are great questions. Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 thank you so much! I keep recommending your channel to my buddies! I just picked up a 2000 5.3 yesterday with 100k miles for $460! I'm so excited to start building it! I saw a comment on one of your other videos that the guy was only 19. I thought I'd let you know that I'm 20 and you inspired me to start this build! I'll have to keep you updated on it! Thanks again for the great info!
Please do keep me updated I saw a comment form you about the book that I followed and then that message disappeared. Did you find it or another resource? I think it is very important that you follow a written approach. The book I used offered a lot of additional information that was useful. It is listed in the description area below each video ("Show More"). Have fun and learn some really stuff!!!!! Mike.
UCanDoIt2 yes I did and then I saw someone else asked the same thing and I saw your answer. I felt bad because you already answered it! I bought that book and it's supposed to arrive today! I couldn't sleep last night because I was so excited to get to it!
I did not use an "Off the Shelf" Master Rebuild Kit. In working with my Machinist, they were able to customize with their supplier to create a Rebuild kit that matched the specs of what I needed. The complete list of item and part numbers of my kit is available for you to download in the "Show More" section below this video. Cheers!
Mike, I just subbed your channel tonight. I came over from Russ's channel at RR. You might want to check out "mrwhitels1" he has a wiring video about deleting the wires you don't need out of a factory harness with links to other videos on the same subject. He put ls engines in 2 square body chevy trucks. Love your channel I already watched all your engine rebuild videos, good job.
Very glad that you found me... I love following Russ' detailed work over at Double R. I had visited mrwhitels1 channel about 6 months ago (I recognize the channel name). I need to circle back and watch his videos again. I am working out the details of my wiring approach. Looking forward to starting that work next week. Many thanks for checking in with me and the reference to MrW1....
All of the Gen3 and Gen4 engines are of the same platform (design). One of the differences is the intake port design of the heads. When choosing an intake, you need to make sure that the intake port designs are the same (Cathedral vs Rectangular). My 2 cents.
No... It cleaned up fairly easily. I prayed it with a cleaner (Something likr Dimple Green or Purple Power) and then wiped it off. I did spend some time cleaning the 8 ports as they had carbon build up. I assume this was due tot he EGR system that recirculates exhaust gasses.
I did not. I believe the new gaskets throughout the Gen3 and Gen4 engines where designed to install dry. The only place that I used a little bit of sealer was in the 4 corners of the block where the oil pan mounts. That was due to the gap of the front and rear covers.
I’ve seen people use Copper spray sealant on head gaskets where they are re-using the original head gasket on a “junk yard” build. My thought is why reuse a head gasket if you have it torn down that far. Doesn’t make sense.
if you dont mind me asking about how much money do you have just in the rebuild for the engine? Im about to LS swap my '86 k10 about would like a ball park figure of a rebuild if i decide to go with a cheaper high millage engine.
In the Description section just below the video (use the "Show More" option), provides a link to the complete Parts List and costs associated with this build. PLEASE NOTE.... There are many option and things that you can change and eliminate. I have about $5k in this engine but that doesn't reflect a good figure if you where attempting to build this on a budget. I took options that were not necessarily required. The list provides a great place to start, with part numbers and prices. These LS Engines do offer a great standard platform where parts are almost interchangeable, but with that said please make sure that any part you purchase for yours, is compatible with your other options. Have fun with yours!!!!!
This engine received a new Comp Cam that is slightly more aggressive than stock. Part numbers listed in the parts list in the description of the video.
The Gen3 and Gen4 Heads have Steam Ports. Some of the engine configurations do not use the rear ports. These are plugs that cover the ports. They have a small o-ring that provides a seal.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks, I bought a LQ9 that is my first project 6.0 and I bought it all taken apart so I was confused since my gen 2 truck doesnt have those. Thanks again!!
UCanDoIt2 Cheers to you as well... Rebuilding my engine, transmission and transfer case will be my greatest auto challenge. I have never done it. I have my manual and have done basic stuff like throttle, water pump, alternator, thermostat, plugs n wires. I'm so nervous but I know I can do it...
You appear to have the applied skills. You will most likely find that you understand and a large percentage of what you will be doing and that the small percent that needs additional attention/research, that will all come easy. Very rewarding and a great way to learn something new. Take your time and enjoy your project!!!
UCanDoIt2 Very encouraging. It may be some months before I get to it just now I'm phsyching myself up...lol and getting prepared. I'll be sure to let you know how I did when I'm finished. I subbed 👍👍👍👍👍
Great job man ! I wanted to know where did you get the longer bolt for installing the harmonic balancer ? I need one for installing my harmonic balancer , but i only have the old and new bolt . Please let me know !
"Stock LS Intake" ? Not sure as this was not a part of my research, but the thing that you would need to be careful with is matching the Intake port types... Cathedral / Rectangular. There may be gaskets that transition to make them all interchangeable. Cheers!!!
Right now, a million dollars as I am still in the middle of restoring my vehicle. Down the road, when I have more time, it would be more reasonable. Cheers!
Well that's good news! It's a great engine platform. I had one in a 01 Tahoe and at 200K, it only showed signs of needing a new oil pump. Gunna be fun! Meow!
Heck yeah!!!!! Going to be fun! Looks just like mine when I started. If you have a Pull-A Part type salvage yard, you will want to source an Engine Harness and PCM. Cheers and have fun with it!!!!! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thanks man! You inspired me to start all of this! I actually got a full harness and computer from a buddy of mine! I'm going to use your harness videos here soon!
UCanDoIt2 I never knew I needed them and my 5.3 build is almost done haha! Just ordered some rear block off plates and front OEM tubes and figured out how to route them! Thank you so much!
MIKE, check out "lt1swap.com" they have a detailed printable chart that gives you the pin #s and locations on the blue and red plugs of the ecm. Very good site. Hope this helps can't wait for more jeep videos. David.
Yea, I'm all over that. Brendan has done a fantastic job with the information that he has collected. I plan to reference his site heavily. Tonight, I need to pop the hood of Rowdy and decide on the PCM location. That is going to determine one of two approaches that I take (Mod the Original OR Custom Layout). THANKS for thinking of me with the reference! I have the final part coming tonight and plan to wrap of the Physical Build tonight. Should be able to publish the next episode in the next day or two! Thanks for watching... this is some pretty cool stuff!
It's a lame theory that Keyboard Mechanics love to hold on to. Extensions and adapters have no effect on a torque wrench as long as you keep pivot of the torque wrench directly above the fastener (in-line). I do a pretty good job of doing that, so you should not have seen anything so offensive to promote your chirp! Might want to re-check your textbook.
Soooo, how’d your wife like the smell of that room as you were painting? I have a shop in the basement I do small parts, and I have an exhaust fan, and she still gives me shit!
First let me say that this process was a mess.... but it came out looking new!!!! I placed it into a larger tub and I alternated spraying it with Simple Green and Odorless Mineral Spirits. For tools, I founds several different size plastic bristle brushes. The inside of the runners were very dirty and I used a small chisel just to lightly scrape the carbon buildup off and then went back to the bristle brush. What you see in the video is just the cleaned Intake. I did not paint it. Hope that helps!!!!
I had not heard that. You maybe correct. The composite that the Intake is made of is rather thick (~3/16"). So I would think that you could use about anything as long as you neutralized it afterwards. I know the Simple Green would not be a problem, but it did an OK job cleaning. I might now question the Odorless Mineral Spirits a little bit, but it really did a fantastic job on the carbon deposits. The Intakes are subject to some harsh chemicals when people normally clean their engines. Just a thought. Cheers!
so detailed, perfect camera angles and explanations..best playlist on youtube for 5.3 building..
This guy is great!! Very informative. I had a 2008 4.8 Silverado and loved that truck and engine. It took bolt ons really well. Extremely easy to work on. Sadly i sold it. But will buy another one, used of course. I posses enough tools and mechanical knowledge to rebuild an engine like this gentleman has. Bravo sir!
Thank you Sir!!!!
I have enjoyed EVERYTHING from start to now. It's like being in a mechanics class. Very detailed and informative. Thank God for guys like this. Who don't mind sharing they're experience to help others.
WOW! What a fantastic compliment. Thank you very much. Glad you are enjoying the series. Cheers to you!
I've watched every episode up until now and I just can't get over how well this build and set of videos is put together/going. ! VERY professionally done. I am going to attempt a project like this with an '89 YJ one day; but for now, I'm just soaking this stuff in. After watching your videos I am getting amped up and can't wait for your finished product! I love how you are taking your time with every step and going out of your way to explain and show little tips and tricks. THANK YOU
I was wondering if you could ever put up a "how to" vid on making one of these vids. what all goes in to it (the process). what equipment/ program is required. i would like to at least record myself rebuilding mine--
Love this comment Johnny!!!! I love this project as it is a great balance for me of: (1) Research, (2) Educating myself, (3) Execution, (4) Record what I am doing for the sake of remembering what I've done, (5) Editing all the work so that it is enjoyable and worthwhile to watch, (6) No Timeline (lately other items have taken precedence), and (7) thoroughly enjoying rewards of the work and great comments like yours. If there is enough interest, I would be willing to do a "Behind the Scenes" video showing what I do to produce these. I constantly wonder the same thing about channels that I subscribe to.... How do they do it!!!!Thanks for the kind words !!!!!
Thanks for making this series of videos. Extremely helpful. I was fairly confident that the engine block cover bolt holes were blind, but couldn't find confirmation if a thread sealer was needed. This is the added boost I needed to carry on!
Stewart Chen Glad that you enjoyed the series. Have fun with your project.
Seen this series of videos a couple of times now I always use project rowdy as a go to ,so far u are the only person/ video that I've seen that has gone into depths about the torque that needs to be used and the clearance of anything internal [plasti gauges] everyone else skips these important details that I've been looking for ,congratulations can wait to get to the last video of this build again ,always rewarding when u do it urself
Love this comment!!!!! I appreciate that the details helped you out. As I mentioned in the Intro Video, I was going to try to include everything. Cheers to you Sir!!!! Mike
Thanks for the tips on masking off the water pump and holding the crank from rotating. Sometimes have to get creative when doing a 2 person job by yourself. My younger brother Robert just installed a built 6.0 in his 2001 transam over Christmas and got it running. I might post a video on it even though I didn't help any. Lol it was cool to see both engines go together.
I like to get creative! Would like to see the video on the 6.0L. I could use it like a carrot dangling in front of me!
I don't know how I did not find your channel sooner.Engine looks great.
Glad you found me and thank you for the kind words!
I can't wait to see what "Rowdy" looks like and sounds like. I watch your Project Rowdy playlist in my garage while I'm working on my CJ7 project.
Another great video and, as always, tons of information ... I've picked up some cool tips, keep up the great work.
This message makes me smile! Best of luck with your project and thanks for watching!
Great videos been watching all of them so far. Good looking engine. I just have two things. You don't need to bounce the torque wrench and you shouldn't use an extension with a torque wrench when ever possible.
Glad you enjoyed the videos! I do however disagree with you on the use of a Torque Wrench. Somewhere in the comments in this series, I posted a lengthy discussion on it if you are interested. Both double clicking and use of extensions are a myth!! Anyway... Thanks for watching and enjoy your projects!!!
Just happen to stumble accross these videos. Very nice job and informative. Good to see you working with your sons teaching them. Wish my dad had taught me engine building or any hobby for that matter. But good job and keep them coming.
Thank for watching and taking the time to provide your feedback! This was a great project and it was fun sharing with the boys! Thank you!!!!
I like when ppl make a step by step build. thanks alot for the video.
Thanks Joe!
I've really enjoyed these videos. My old 2002 Avalanche has the same LS engine with 473,000 original miles. So far, I've replaced the alternator, water pump, knock sensors, and plugs (3 times). That's it. GM got it right when they designed that engine.
I also have an almost stock 2004 Jeep TJ Wrangler. Hmmmm....
Dang.... that is a lot of miles!!!!! The TJ would be a really cool project.... just saying!!!!
very nice job on your 5.3 wiring harness the best ever seen, thank you
Thank you Ed. Cheers to you Sir!
Your videos are amazing and so invaluable to people like us that want to build stuff ourselves! Thank you!
MrMrdynes Thank you for the compliment. It is greatly appreciated. Cheers to you!!!!!
I know it is too late to mention this. Almost one year later! I have reviewed your entire series and I am impressed! But in this session you show installing the valley cover. I believe you have your "knock sensor to valley cover grommets" installed upside down. These are the grommets that are pressed into the bottom of the KS towers (not the ones on top that have the wires in them). When the valley cover is out, and laying on a flat surface with bottom facing upwards, the two knock sensor "towers" are then facing up. Install the grommets so that the "flat surface" of the grommet are facing up also. Yours are facing down. I rechecked the OEM GM manual, and it shows the the flat facing up. The book you have used to help take apart and reassemble this engine, does not explain this in detail. I know, I have one also. I also checked other sources, and the flat faces up. When you install the cover, it should slip down over the engine KS bosses, and stay put. In your video, because the grommets are reversed, the cover wants to pop up (look at your video and see this). When I saw your cover wanting to pop up, I knew something was wrong. Then I ran the video back slow, and noticed what was the problem. Hope this makes sense. If you want, I can email you a diagram as to what direction is the correct install. If you can find evidence that I am wrong, by all means let me know. I am going what my OEM GM manual shows in its diagram, and from sources of videos where folks are removing valley covers that are virgin - and all show I am correct. Please let me know what evidence you have uncovered if you can show me wrong. Then I will contact GM engineering and find out what is going on. The entire series is a top notch production!!
Joe, Thanks for the details. I do understand what you are talking about. I might have an opportunity to remove the intake soon and if I do, I will take a look at this. Thanks again for the kind correction to my mistake. Cheers!
great job! nice attention to detail! you can also put a long rope in cylinder via spark plug hole to prevent the engine to turn but you have to make shure to be in compression stroke before...
That is an interesting idea. Thanks for watching!
Having been an Auto Technician for 30 years I don’t really consider myself a fan of any certain brand of vehicles. They all have their weak points and engineering goof ups. Having said that, I personally think the LS engine platform is the best small block V8 ever mass produced in an American vehicle. They aren’t perfect but they are close.
That was pretty funny....in my mind this is what played out. Wife starts smelling an odd smell so she heads to the garage to investigate.....as she rounds the corner she spots the camera and hits reverse immediately. Engine is looking great man!
That is exactly what happened! She knows to approach with caution. While I was tightening that bolt, I was shaking my head. She finally saw me and kicked in her best "Back Stroke". I'm going to show her your comment and she is going to laugh!!!
looks great! really wanna drop one of these in my skylark Mike! I want the 6.0 though LQ4 or LQ9! I'll be very interested to see the wiring now!
That 6.0 will sit pretty sweet in the Skylark. I am beginning to think through my approach to the wiring and how I can go through it methodically. I am wanting to remove all unused wires and clean it up. My engine harness has a bunch of Automatic transmission wires that I will be removing. I know that the approach that I take will apply to yours, you will just have to "keep" is a few places where I "Pitched". Some of my approach is based on what I learned from your wiring video! What a fantastic platform to share information! Thank you!!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 you're very welcome! RUclips is just the greatest learning tool there is hands down!
Kool little home made angle gauge 👍🏻 Great educational videos
Thank you sir! Sometimes it's fun to get creative!! Cheers!
Great videos! Were you able to stretch the balancer bolt in one motion after the initial torque? Lot of info on the web is suggesting the final torque to be 240 lbs. It would be interesting to do an experiment: Do the initial torque at 37 lbs then put the degree wheel on and set your torque wrench at 240 lbs. Start the stretch and stop when you get tor the correct degree and if it click first just keep going tell you get to the correct degree. I have a friend the works at the dealer and does a lot of these, his advice to me was he uses blue locktite and hits it with his 1/2 inch impact gun.
It would be interesting to know the difference. I believe you can get a very accurate torque at the lower settings and then the angle provides the proper stretch. Some Engineer came up with this sucking down some coffee in the break room.... Cheers! Mike
Looking really good, Mike!
If you listen really carefully, you can hear it whimper... Just the preliminary sound heard just before a full fledge..... VAAAROOOOOOM!
Like the video series! I'm gonna start to build my 5.3 lm7 soon. Planing on stock crank,K1 rods, wiseco pistons, With an comp cam turbo crank shaft and ls6 heads with comp cam valve train upgrade kit and a holley sniper intake. Also slapping on 65 mm turbos.
WOW! That sounds like it will run like a scalded dog! That will include a lot of upgraded parts compared to mine, but what is cool is the process of your build should be similar. My original thought was to start with an L33 which comes with those LS6 Heads. Have fun with your project and let me know how it turned out. Happy New Year!
ya gonna have a th400, 9inch rear end and bmr suspension , gonna take about 2-3 year just due to cost of parts, but goal is get it all done run it na till i have for the turbo kit and suspension then put those in
I like the fact that you have a realistic 2 step plan. That will allow you to enjoy it while saving up for a second wave. Understanding up front that you are stepping into a long term endeavor is important to it's success. What will all this "Get up and Go" be install in?
moving along good painted and love the degree wheel works well
thanks for the step by step videos awesome stuff happy new year
also thanks for the great shout out
Yes Sir! My pleasure. Thanks for all of the support you provide all of these great channels. Stay warm!
UCanDoIt2
Hello Sir how or what method did use to paint the harmonic balancer and not paint the rubber? I will say your explanation of building the engine and the steps are excellent. The information is easy to follow and use keep up the good work
Beau -- On the Harmonic Balancer, I cut thin strips of masking tape to mask off that little rubber area between the inner and outer hubs on both front and back. I also placed a tight wadded paper towel in the center hole to help avoid paint getting in the center hole. Also because this is part of the rotating assembly, be methodical and try to lay an even coat of paint on it. I was surprised how well it turned out and after all of the parts started coming together, I realized that I probably should have painted the Balancer BLACK to match all of the other rotating pulleys. Don't tell anybody, that will be our secret! Best of luck with your build and have fun with it!!!!!
Slowly making my way through these so I can really pay attention. Great job! :D
I was hoping that your slow approach wasn't related to falling asleep! Cheers and Thanks Rob!
Hahaha of course not...just taking my time to absorb as much as I can since I will be doing the same thing one day (hopefully not too soon)!
Nice!! Looking great!!
very nice video i never did a ls motor will have to watch the series RR sent me over glad he did will be watching
Thanks 265! It's been a lot of fun so far. I've been watching your channel for a couple of months now! About when the T-Shirt crap started. But let's not bring that up! Cheers! The house repairs look nice!
flywheel/flex plate was moving as you tightened the harmonic balancer. e.g. the crank was spinning as you were angle torqueing the bolt.
Rkilling1 i had reset the gauge after the crank returned to the lockout position. It was ultimately tighten with the clamp at the top. Thanks for watching.
Good info thanks
Thank you.... Cheers!
I noticed that a mistake was made with the coolant crossover / steam vent tube setup on this engine. You are running the later cheapened stock setup that can cause a piston to break apart from detonation in the rear cylinder (usually #7 instead of #8). For some reason under certain conditions the rear knock sensor will not detect the ping in the rear cylinder caused by hot spots from the lack of venting the steam pocket. My father had his 2006 cutaway Chevy Express 2500 with the 6.0L engine put a rod thru the side of the block because of this problem. Simply driving thru Bessemer, Alabama on a 80 degree afternoon and boom. Only had just under 240k highway miles on it at the time.
The older crossover /steam vent tube was a H shaped one piece pipe that went under the intake manifold. There should be a way to convert your existing setup to this some how.
That is interesting!!!! Would not be hard to find a vent tube system that connects all four vent ports, I have seen and am familiar with the tube that you describe. A little odd that an engine with 240K miles in it with a potential back rear know sensor on it and you point to the vent tubes. I thought I have seen example of people with the 4 port tube, purposely block off the rears and go with what I have. Would love to hear form others on there opinion. That would be an easy change to make! THANK YOU for the idea.
I have a 2007 Suburban with a 5.3, (with Active Fuel Management if that maters) I'm finishing up an install of a remanufactured engine I bought from the Chevy dealer. My original engine had the vent tubes on the front and provisions on the back with caps/covers. The remanufactured engine has the back sealed/plugged permanently so you can't install a rear tube at all.
awesome video's love it thanks
I appreciate the feedback! Cheers to you Ben!
Looks great. Nice end clean. ...I learned a lot. .good tips.....
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback! Cheers!
looks great mike nice progress
Thank you Chris! A very cool project! Now just to get the vehicle prepared for the transplant!!!
Mike that looks super cool. 👍👍
Thank you Steve! I always appreciate when you chime in! Hope your staying warm up there in the big CA. It's been in the 70s (F) down here! Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 HAHA it's cold and I spent all day fixing a snowblower . Oh man I hate winter. LOL
Snow blower... What's that??? I don't even own a snow shovel. Seen one once... in a book!
UCanDoIt2 Hahahaha
Another great episode!
BTW you should wear a respirator, I've had an incredible headacke issue one day when I was doing a valve covers painting, since then I've never paint any things without a respirator.
The funny thing is when I've watched this EP I was thinking of asking you about some wiring harness tutorial and then I'm scrolling down to the comments section and first thing I see is the same request that +MontanaLowGear has already wrote! :))
Waiting for your future videos, great job!
P.S. - I'm working on LS-based 7,6L race engine swap now (into '99 e46 BMW) as well :)
I have a couple of Respirators and just forget to use them until I about half way through the job! And you are right, I have to start using them! Yep, I'm working out my approach on tackling the wiring harness which will be next.The LS in an E46 would be bad ass! We have a 2000 328 E46. Love that car, so easy to work on. It's old enough that it needs a lot of work, but it is so easy, and I find the parts are cheap. You should consider some videos of that swap. I'm in! Thanks!
Awesome video doing 6.0 in 86 square body How did you get intake so clean it looks new thx
I believe I used Simple Green and Mineral Spirits (separately) with a scrub brush. I have since heard people having good luck with Oven Cleaner. I did have to use a screw driver to break up the build-up inside the ports. Cheers!
Great videos I appreciate the detail.
Ben Dover Thank you Ben
Great job!!! You are one of the few people that are as picky as me when I do a build. I have just built Chevy 350's in the past. This was a lot of help. I'm looking to build a 6.0 for towing in a 2500. I do want to ask a question and it may show my ignorance. Is there a reason for not using the cordless drill for snugging all bolts before the torquing? Thanks again.
This engine has so many similarities to the older SBC, but they have moved some things around (ie oil pump and others). Regarding the cordless drill... In the manual that I followed, it made a great point as to why NOT TO USE a pneumatic impact driver on the engine. The gist of the point was that people press down on a bolt, then pull the trigger, when that bolt reaches the top and is still in a high pressures spinning action, you are damaging those first threads. I thought this was a good point. I am not anal about things like this and I know that you could get the bolt started and then let off the downward pressure.... BUT, I just thought I would do it by hand. Most of the time, we would use the old school wobble wrench and sometimes, we would grab a ratchet. I actually meant to mention some of this in the video and forgot. Bottom line, just a personal preference. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching good luck with your 6.0!
another great video.
Thanks for watching and the feedback !!!!!!
Thank you for the video
Could you tell me what the torque spec on the lifter valley cover is? I know this is an older series but I'm hoping you're still monitoring the comments. Thank you!
18 ft-lbs for the Valley Pan Cover. Cheers! Mike
Hey what is the line called that your installing back on @ 10:35 in the video? And what torque does it get set at pls? I have to out my back on and im not sure what it is and what torque to set it at. Thanks GREAT and thorough videos. Much appreciated
That is the Intake Steam Vent Tube. Use 106 In lbs.
Awesome! Thank you for your timely response. Man I've leaned on your videos heavily, and others, to do this job on my truck (DOD DELETE) due to a bad lifter. Thanks again.
Awesome! Thank you for your timely response. Man I've leaned on your videos heavily, and others, to do this job on my truck (DOD DELETE) due to a bad lifter. Thanks again.
You built and awesome and beautiful motor by the way👍👌
@@rhensel001 Thank you... I appreciate it. We had a lot of fun with our build. Hope you are enjoying yours!
Great vid, Mike. I'm trying to catch up. The engine sure looks great with the new paint. Dry seal? I thought that was weird too. I really like those intake gaskets.
I appreciate that Russ. I did ultimately like the Intake gaskets as well as they snapped into place and there was no real threat of them shifting when the intake went on. Thank you Sir!
Again,great work,I have a question where did you get all your torque specs???👍😁💰🤪🏁
Thank you John. The reference manual that I followed throughout this build included Torque Specs within the instructions as well as in a table in the back of the publication.
Here is the book the I used: GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
How did that paint hold up? I see this is a old video...just curious if it peeled over time
Well the good news is it looks like it was painted yesterday... the bad news is that the engine has not been installed in my Jeep yet! Therefore we have not run it yet. That VHT is Heat resistant and should hold up extremely well.
You are sooo fking smart always thinking ahead
Liked the video
But at 12:17 you talked about the torque sequence
I noticed you didn't to any of that with the other gaskets (etc) up until now
Would that cause any issues in the future?
The book that I followed mentions torque sequences for some items and not for others. If you study the Torque Sequences, the statement that I made at 12:17, I feel is very accurate. It could be apply to every item that is installed. A Torque Sequence is very important for tightening items down evenly and reducing stress on the item near the fastener that is being tightened at the time. Things like: Main Crank Bearings, Heads, Intake, Valve Cover, and the Oil Pan are items that this would apply to the most. The only items that I can think of that I did not apply this was the Front and Rear Covers. I believe I went around in a circle on them, but I did do them in stages (Snug, half way, torqued). You are trying to avoid cracking thin items and warping others. Hope this helps. You are very observant and this was a great question. Cheers!
🇺🇲 I know this was 4 years ago but I have a question, I have a 05 GMC 1500 4wd 4 door with the 5.3 LM7. I was thinking of getting the Diablo tuner, it adds up to 30 hp or so im told, my question is do you think my stock 4L60E transmission can handle 30 more? It weighs roughly 5500lbs and its my daily driver. I really want to change my lazy shift points and if I can get away with it I'd like to add 20 or 30 hp and a little torque. Im real nice to it and I don't tow anything but my fat ass and my dirtbike. 🇺🇲
There are people that turbocharge those engines, so I assume that 20-30 wouldn't even blip the radar. Go for it!
Sexy looking engine and great job on a very detailed video keep up the good work.
Thank you Arturo! Cheers!
What did you use to clean/sand the block? its got to be hard to use sand paper in all the crevasses.
All of the grime was removed at the Machine shop during the cleaning/dipping process. I did lightly hit it with a Scotch Bright pad prior to painting
ahh scotch bright pad, good idea, thanks!
Hey there. Love your vids. I plan on using them in the near future as a guide to rebuild a 6.0 lq9/lq4 and put them in my ‘75 caprice. I have a few questions if you don’t mind.
What engine stand are you using and would it be adequate for a 6.0 iron block?
Would it be smart to buy a stripped block as I plan on touching every part as you have just to prevent future headaches? Or should I buy complete and replace as I go?
Also are there any tips/tricks/advice you could recommend? This would absolutely be my first dive into motor repair.
Thanks for any help.
Medium grade Harbor Freight Engine Stand. These engines are heavy
Stripped Block - That would work well as you might plan to replace most of the items as I did. I typically learn a lot from the disassembly process.
You need a repair manual to follow and learn from. I used. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
UCanDoIt2 thanks for the heads up. You will probably hear from me in the future. I hope everything goes flawlessly
What instructions are you using I’d like a set I want to build my LM7
GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
This build up has been great UCanDoIt2! Thanks for taking the time and showing all the little details. I am out of Atlanta , Ga and will be shopping for a 5.3 for a 66 c10 fairly soon. Where did you get yours and how much was it?
Jason, Thanks for the message! The kind words that you stated make it all worth the while. I purchased my 2001 LM7 5.3L from S&W in Lithonia, GA (East of Atlanta) for $600. I had a great experience with them. I worked with Gary McQuithy (Engine specialist) 770-482-9500. I called him first and he walked me through their process over the phone. Then when I went to look at his selection, he gave me a tour of the place. Very professional!!!!! Best of luck with your project and thanks for following along!!!!!
Thanks for the info! That's not a bad price at all! Did you pull it yourself?
No! S&W had it sitting in a warehouse on a pallet along with others. This video kind of talks about it. ruclips.net/video/zHAZYIrEYGQ/видео.html
check out LKQ parts you pull they have several 40% off days every year. I picked up a LM7 on new years for 300 bucks out the door. also there are 2 locations in GA and they occasionally have some LM4s too.
How did you get the old valley pan grommets out? And what is the torque spec on the valley pan bolts? Thanks in advance
The old Valley Pan Gasket (I assume you are talking about the round grommets at the Knock Sensors) are pinched between the Knock Sensors and the block. I removed my Knock Sensors before the Valley Pan and so they very easily separated. Torque Spec : 18 ft-lbs.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike awesome yeah I soaked them over night in penetrating oil and knocked them out with a piece of tube and a rubber mallet and they came out easy. I looked for videos on how to get the old grommets out and couldn't find anything showing the process but your video was the most helpful so thanks for posting it!
Really like your videos! What rebuild kit are you using?
Thank you Sir!!!! The "Rebuild Kit" was put together by my Machinist for the parts that I needed. Not really one that you would find that has a "Kit" Part Number. They worked directly with their supplier to gather all the parts that I needed. Cheers!!!!!
What color paint is that? VHT aluminum? Looks really good!
Yes! VHT Engine Enamel - SP127 Universal Aluminum
Man real nice video and not sure anyone said it yet but you took the blue tape off the intake ports waaaayyy to early 😂😂😂
My truck has the 5.3 T motor which LS would it be it's a 2002 Silverado
If the 8th digit is a T, you have an LM7 5.3L. They where offered between 99-07. 285-295Hp, 325-335ftlb torque. The same engine as I have in this video series.
Hey I have a question after building the motor did u ever go back and retorque the heads after the first heat cycle
I did not.
What paint did you use for your valve covers? Really love that red want to paint mine the same color!
VHT Paint - SP731 Real Red
UCanDoIt2 sweet! Did you use their clear coat as well or just the paint.
Marcos Morales just the base color, no clear. I think it turned out fabulous. Enjoy yours!!!!
UCanDoIt2 much appreciated!
The tsb isn't too build a dam your supposed to seal the grommets to the valley pan and where the wire goes through the grommet.
How well has the VHT held up over the past few years?
Is that’s the truck Harmonic balancer or is it the Ls 3 harmonic balancer?
It is a Truck HB. It is the original that came with this engine. 2001 Chevy Silverado.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike ouch!! I order the LS3 HB 😞 but I did order that 2013 Camaro Water Pump tho. I’m going to be uploading my 5.3 set up like yours real soon. Can’t wait to shout you out for this ideal.
U mention a book do u mind if I ask what book it is you use
I listed it in the description of this video. From a computer, use the “SHOW MORE” to see the details. From a phone or tablet, use the drop down arrow below the video to expand and see the details.
just dropped by. Driveshaft Drew sent me.
I appreciate you checking in! Drew is awesome! Hope you find something interesting.
Mike - Would you happen to remember where you got the LONGER Harmonic Balancer Bolt? I'd like to order one ASAP! Thank you! Love your channel.
Yes sir! I bought it online at Fastenal (SKU # 11127092 $6.62). In case you would like to locate it somewhere else, the specs are: M16-2.0 X 120mm. You are the second person to inquire, so I will be adding this reference to the Description are below that video to help others!! Best of luck with your project, Anthony!!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 I really appreciate that! Thank you so much! It's coming along nice. Looking forward to seeing yours rumbling' soon!
I also found that most places charge about $30 for the Replacement Harmonic Balancer Bolt ( the one that you will leave on permanently). I found it on Amazon for $12 (amzn.to/2stbxev).
UCanDoIt2 Thank you very much for the information.
Hey! I don't mean to keep bugging you but how many miles did this engine have on it when you got it? What range of mileage would you suggest for a project? Is there a certain mileage that would be considered too high?
My engine had about 180K on it. Wow... the next part is difficult to answer and I hope some more qualified people will chime in here. Here is my logical answer!!! An abused engine with 150K might have stress issues and a well maintained 250K engine may be the perfect candidate. An engine from a salvaged truck that was hit in the rear may be a good candidate as it was salvaged due to accident and possibly not engine issues. The Salvage yard that I purchased mine from had the engine already out of the truck. But they have a routine that they perform that identifies the best candidates. They also offer a warranty (only of you don't take it apart). It's a crap shoot! Most issues can be solved with installing new parts. The Block and Heads are the skeletal parts that you are hoping are issue free! Don't worry about asking questions.... This is part of your research and these are great questions. Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 thank you so much! I keep recommending your channel to my buddies! I just picked up a 2000 5.3 yesterday with 100k miles for $460! I'm so excited to start building it! I saw a comment on one of your other videos that the guy was only 19. I thought I'd let you know that I'm 20 and you inspired me to start this build! I'll have to keep you updated on it! Thanks again for the great info!
Please do keep me updated I saw a comment form you about the book that I followed and then that message disappeared. Did you find it or another resource? I think it is very important that you follow a written approach. The book I used offered a lot of additional information that was useful. It is listed in the description area below each video ("Show More"). Have fun and learn some really stuff!!!!! Mike.
UCanDoIt2 yes I did and then I saw someone else asked the same thing and I saw your answer. I felt bad because you already answered it! I bought that book and it's supposed to arrive today! I couldn't sleep last night because I was so excited to get to it!
I understand our excitement!!!! Have fun!
Is that the stock truck harmonic balancer?
Yes, It is the original one to this motor. I taped up the rubber dampening sections and painted all of the metal.
did you use the old harmonic balancer?
Yes. I cleaned up and painted the old one and reused it. The bolt is new as it is a one time use bolt.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike im building my lq4 and im thinking of using the old harmonic balancer like you did.
you havent had any problems?
What master rebuild kit did you use?
I did not use an "Off the Shelf" Master Rebuild Kit. In working with my Machinist, they were able to customize with their supplier to create a Rebuild kit that matched the specs of what I needed. The complete list of item and part numbers of my kit is available for you to download in the "Show More" section below this video. Cheers!
Mike, I just subbed your channel tonight. I came over from Russ's channel at RR. You might want to check out "mrwhitels1" he has a wiring video about deleting the wires you don't need out of a factory harness with links to other videos on the same subject. He put ls engines in 2 square body chevy trucks. Love your channel I already watched all your engine rebuild videos, good job.
Very glad that you found me... I love following Russ' detailed work over at Double R. I had visited mrwhitels1 channel about 6 months ago (I recognize the channel name). I need to circle back and watch his videos again. I am working out the details of my wiring approach. Looking forward to starting that work next week. Many thanks for checking in with me and the reference to MrW1....
does the fast intake fit to? on the 5.3
All of the Gen3 and Gen4 engines are of the same platform (design). One of the differences is the intake port design of the heads. When choosing an intake, you need to make sure that the intake port designs are the same (Cathedral vs Rectangular). My 2 cents.
Did you painted that factory intake?
No... It cleaned up fairly easily. I prayed it with a cleaner (Something likr Dimple Green or Purple Power) and then wiped it off. I did spend some time cleaning the 8 ports as they had carbon build up. I assume this was due tot he EGR system that recirculates exhaust gasses.
Do you put any kind of sealer for the intake gaskets?
I did not. I believe the new gaskets throughout the Gen3 and Gen4 engines where designed to install dry. The only place that I used a little bit of sealer was in the 4 corners of the block where the oil pan mounts. That was due to the gap of the front and rear covers.
UCanDoIt2 thank you. Allot of people were trying ti tell me ti seal everything up
I’ve seen people use Copper spray sealant on head gaskets where they are re-using the original head gasket on a “junk yard” build. My thought is why reuse a head gasket if you have it torn down that far. Doesn’t make sense.
if you dont mind me asking about how much money do you have just in the rebuild for the engine? Im about to LS swap my '86 k10 about would like a ball park figure of a rebuild if i decide to go with a cheaper high millage engine.
In the Description section just below the video (use the "Show More" option), provides a link to the complete Parts List and costs associated with this build. PLEASE NOTE.... There are many option and things that you can change and eliminate. I have about $5k in this engine but that doesn't reflect a good figure if you where attempting to build this on a budget. I took options that were not necessarily required. The list provides a great place to start, with part numbers and prices. These LS Engines do offer a great standard platform where parts are almost interchangeable, but with that said please make sure that any part you purchase for yours, is compatible with your other options. Have fun with yours!!!!!
What book did you use?
GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks for your help, and your content
hi .this engine is stock or do you have a tube cam on it?
This engine received a new Comp Cam that is slightly more aggressive than stock. Part numbers listed in the parts list in the description of the video.
cam specs?
What is that that he put on at 11:00
The Gen3 and Gen4 Heads have Steam Ports. Some of the engine configurations do not use the rear ports. These are plugs that cover the ports. They have a small o-ring that provides a seal.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks, I bought a LQ9 that is my first project 6.0 and I bought it all taken apart so I was confused since my gen 2 truck doesnt have those. Thanks again!!
Soo is it a 4.8 or 5.3 vortec ls Engine ???
Isaac Carranza This is the LM7 5.3 Vortec engine from a 2001 Silverado.
Oh okay thanks man i was confused because the block was casted 4.8/5.3 and i was like which one could it be
Yep! The 4.8s and 5.3s share the same block. What makes them a different displacement is the Crankshaft and Piston Rod Lengths (for the most part).
Oh shit I did not know that learn something new everyday i have a 5.3 at my house gonna put it in a 52 3100 n gonna take a look at that
Did you bake the valve covers as well?
loveto livetruely Yes. Anything that I could fit in the oven, I baked on. I assume that it really helps cure the paint. Cheers!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 Cheers to you as well... Rebuilding my engine, transmission and transfer case will be my greatest auto challenge. I have never done it. I have my manual and have done basic stuff like throttle, water pump, alternator, thermostat, plugs n wires. I'm so nervous but I know I can do it...
You appear to have the applied skills. You will most likely find that you understand and a large percentage of what you will be doing and that the small percent that needs additional attention/research, that will all come easy. Very rewarding and a great way to learn something new. Take your time and enjoy your project!!!
UCanDoIt2 Very encouraging. It may be some months before I get to it just now I'm phsyching myself up...lol and getting prepared. I'll be sure to let you know how I did when I'm finished. I subbed 👍👍👍👍👍
Definitely keep me posted! Would love to hear of your progress!
Great job man ! I wanted to know where did you get the longer bolt for installing the harmonic balancer ? I need one for installing my harmonic balancer , but i only have the old and new bolt . Please let me know !
I purchased it online from Fastenal, SKU 11127092. M16-2.0 x 120mm. It was $6.62 plus shipping. Hope that helps.
Does the stock ls intake fits the lm7?
"Stock LS Intake" ? Not sure as this was not a part of my research, but the thing that you would need to be careful with is matching the Intake port types... Cathedral / Rectangular. There may be gaskets that transition to make them all interchangeable. Cheers!!!
how much would you charge for a motor rebuild
Right now, a million dollars as I am still in the middle of restoring my vehicle. Down the road, when I have more time, it would be more reasonable. Cheers!
i have one of these engines in my truck, has close to half a million km on it and it still purrs like i kitten.
Well that's good news! It's a great engine platform. I had one in a 01 Tahoe and at 200K, it only showed signs of needing a new oil pump. Gunna be fun! Meow!
mine would be about 300,000 miles, strong oil pressure, pulls real strong, love these engines., this coming from a ford guy. lmao
you mean 110 inch pounds right?
Which bolts are you inquiring about?
Hey Mike!!!! Go check out my latest video! You don't have to watch the whole thing but it's a surprise for ya!
Heck yeah!!!!! Going to be fun! Looks just like mine when I started. If you have a Pull-A Part type salvage yard, you will want to source an Engine Harness and PCM. Cheers and have fun with it!!!!! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thanks man! You inspired me to start all of this! I actually got a full harness and computer from a buddy of mine! I'm going to use your harness videos here soon!
Download my documents from the section below any of the Harness videos. And most importantly.... keep rockin' those bedroom slippers!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike will do! And of course! 😄😄
always silly cone those knock sensors
Not going back with knock sensors
I did go back with Knock Sensors. Are you saying you are not?
@@UCanDoIt2Mike yeah I’ve heard that if you’re changing piston’s cam and such that they aren’t calibrated to that engine anymore
@@UCanDoIt2Mike love your videos! We’re at dropping in the flattop Piston and rods!
Awesome! Have fun with it. Mike
At 10:33 what part is he installing?
Steam Vents. I went back with the original setup which has vents on the front two ports and caps on the rear two ports.
UCanDoIt2 thank you so much!!
UCanDoIt2 I never knew I needed them and my 5.3 build is almost done haha! Just ordered some rear block off plates and front OEM tubes and figured out how to route them! Thank you so much!
I dont care what the book says NEVER torque the balancer bolt to 240 ft. Lbs.
They really want you to put it in your oven at home
I tried to sell that idea to the wife.... but she said NO!
Awe ok so you put it under that heater and the Torque is for all valve covers for 5.3
MIKE, check out "lt1swap.com" they have a detailed printable chart that gives you the pin #s and locations on the blue and red plugs of the ecm. Very good site. Hope this helps can't wait for more jeep videos. David.
Yea, I'm all over that. Brendan has done a fantastic job with the information that he has collected. I plan to reference his site heavily. Tonight, I need to pop the hood of Rowdy and decide on the PCM location. That is going to determine one of two approaches that I take (Mod the Original OR Custom Layout). THANKS for thinking of me with the reference! I have the final part coming tonight and plan to wrap of the Physical Build tonight. Should be able to publish the next episode in the next day or two! Thanks for watching... this is some pretty cool stuff!
Stop using adapters and extensions when not necessary when using your torque wrench.
It's a lame theory that Keyboard Mechanics love to hold on to. Extensions and adapters have no effect on a torque wrench as long as you keep pivot of the torque wrench directly above the fastener (in-line). I do a pretty good job of doing that, so you should not have seen anything so offensive to promote your chirp! Might want to re-check your textbook.
great video but please ditch that same song that keeps playing over and over
It’s better to put the silicon on the actual rubber seals before putting them on
Soooo, how’d your wife like the smell of that room as you were painting? I have a shop in the basement I do small parts, and I have an exhaust fan, and she still gives me shit!
I get questioned politely, but I think it is just to remind me that she's not happy! Cheers
What method did you use to clean your plastic intake manifold?
First let me say that this process was a mess.... but it came out looking new!!!! I placed it into a larger tub and I alternated spraying it with Simple Green and Odorless Mineral Spirits. For tools, I founds several different size plastic bristle brushes. The inside of the runners were very dirty and I used a small chisel just to lightly scrape the carbon buildup off and then went back to the bristle brush. What you see in the video is just the cleaned Intake. I did not paint it. Hope that helps!!!!
Thanks for the info. I had heard that there were certain chemicals not to use on a plastic intake manifold?
I had not heard that. You maybe correct. The composite that the Intake is made of is rather thick (~3/16"). So I would think that you could use about anything as long as you neutralized it afterwards. I know the Simple Green would not be a problem, but it did an OK job cleaning. I might now question the Odorless Mineral Spirits a little bit, but it really did a fantastic job on the carbon deposits. The Intakes are subject to some harsh chemicals when people normally clean their engines. Just a thought. Cheers!