I just wanted to comment that I've been a cylinder head guy for about 45 years and worked at 3 different shops. Man your pretty sharp and I've found your videos helpful. 5:17
A old school bit brace, yes like grandpa used to drill holes is really nice to drive taps in smoothly and straight.. plus it's set up for square drive and has a pad on top to hold it straight and keep pressure on it.
You made this look so easy. I’m wanting to start a 6.0 “build” (more like assemble) it’ll be my first and I got to admit the cam bearings is the most intimidating.
Nice work! Nice solid cam bearing installing tool, the universal adjusting ones don’t cut it. I used to have the Winona Van Norman cam bearing installer with about 30 different-size drivers.
Great video Gerald! I have noticed the front cam bearing to be the problem child on the LS platform. Sadly most of the automotive machine shops in my area have gone out of business and all the new ones have mega overhead cost which makes it unaffordable.
Had a come back ate #1 exhaust push rod can't see anything wrong makes me wonder if cam bearing might have spun,Thinking I need to inspect future ,very helpful 🤔
Good alternative to correcting the bores if it works in a bind. . We just index/bore/hone them all for the CHP-25R1 oversize bearings. We won’t machine a block without doing this as part of the process.
Hi, Great information about the cam bearings,, I bought a gen3 5.3 ls motor and tore it down and the middle cam bearing just came uot with the cam and I had to use my dremel to cut the bearing in half ,, the journal looks ok and figured the bearing hadn't spun but the cam looks like its been heated ,, not scored just discolored at the center cam bearing .. I watched your video and thought this would be good insurance for the rebuild but this motor has knock sensors and look like its impossible to do # 2 and 4 bearings ,, am I right ? and would it be ok to do this just do the center bearing and #1 and 5?
Great video , and great idea pining the cam bearings , there’s a lot of speculation out there why the Ls motor spins cam bearings but no solid reason why. I was just looking at a LS oiling system diagram, and I see the oil galley that feeds oil to the cam bearings runs along side the cam bearing journal and then to the mains ,, and not directly to the cam bearings like a Gen 1 sbc. say you have a high milage LS with loose main and rod bearings, it looks to me the oil would leak out the loose rods and mains and preventing it from building enough pressure to feed oil to the cam bearings ?? I could be wrong , what’s your opinion why they tear up cam bearings ??
Has you ever seen an issue with the metallurgy between the set screw/bolts and bearings? Is there a expansion range from heat that may distort anything or is it to small to worry about? This is a really good trick of the trade!
If you continue to use the same fixtures for locating and drilling the holes in the block the fixture itself will start to wear out. I'd suggest the use of a hardened drill bushing inserted into your fixture to maintain and protect the original location, available from tool and die supply houses such as McMaster-Carr or Carr Lane Mfg. Nice idea to mechanically hold the bearing in place.
My Engine has 300,000 miles. It's definitely do for some cam bearings. I wonder if it will make it another 300,000 without this trick? Hell I probably won't last another 300,000. I let the next guy worry about it 😁
Thank You Mr Brand love watching your Vids so helpful old school rocks.... Do you have any content on the building of Damon Merhants engine? Sure proves old school again is the way Conven BBC out there in first place you should be so proud we alll are... Thanks again...
@@BrandRacingEngines Thanks Mr Brand iam 60 yrs old and have owned a Automotive Repair shop for 37 yrs , i have a couple 64 Novas one pro street and the other is still stock chassis both have 434 SBC strokers and it blows me away back when i cruised out of high school a 400hp engine was the rage today if your not showing up with a 800 -1000 hp your not going very far... I have great respect for You and all the old school mentors i have been blessed to learn from , High school Auto shop and Machine shop were so much of what you put on your content which proves corp owned Race engine shops may not treat every engine like a person like you that said have been a fan of Damon since i learned he was running Matt's Big 9 set up combined with your skill set that BBC made 51 runs , Damon released a vid Thursday while pulling the engine hoping it did not Window the block or mess the crank up beyhond repair, would love to see you show the repairs or rebuild its to me so impressive that a small home town machine shop and engine builder has built a engine combo that is beating up on engines that cost 3-4 times a BBC . Again thank you for all the educational Vids on Engine machine processes. Sound like Damon will be sticking to replacing the Aluim Rods on a maint basis from now on..Fred
Mr Brand if you have the time, can you explain why LS engines have can bearing problems. I’m obviously not a machinist or engine builder. But the cam spins exactly half the speed of the crank with a lighter load. My experience with small block ford and chevy was you can rebuild the bottom end and not touch the cam bearings and everything will be fine. But I constantly hear about LS cam bearings. Thank you sir. I truly enjoy watching your channel.
Mr brand when a engine that comes back in that has this process done, do you just run the same tap in the existing hole on the front and rears? Couldn’t imagine you could go any bigger if the threads got buggered up on the block side. Nice info, keep’m coming!
So as far as I know all V8 engines small block Big Blocks LS is and so on all use a cam bearing. Hawaiian small-displacement engines like 4 cylinders in overhead cam engine like a 2JZ Toyota they don't run cam bearings. Now I know at times the cam cap and the head need to be line hone but that's pretty rare. Normally you can just drop a set of cams in torque it down and you're all good then you have a steel cam on an aluminum head or sometimes a Billet aluminum cam on aluminum head no bearings but absolutely no scoring
Have you tried Loctite 632? The green stuff, it’s made for press fit type situations. It’s worked good for me. I’ve never used it on cam bearings though. Seems like it’d be good for that, just don’t know if the oil and heat affect it.
When you drill into the center ones does it leave a rough spot or burr you have to smooth up? Or does the hole come out smooth and clean? Awesome video
Awesome 😎 if there is an existing problem,,,and way too solve and or prevent said problem...By all means do so.. Awesome stuff....the only way it should be done. thanks
Gerald, I've never heard of that being done, seems pretty straightforward too. Has there been problems with LS engines spinning cam bearings? With your procedure, that'll never happen. 👍👍
So let me be clear on this, You pre drill your holes and then install the bearings? Or do you drill the hole completely threw the bearing and then just use the washer to get the depth of the set screw so it doesn't go all the way threw? And where can I get one of these tools to align everything for the hole getting drilled threw the block? And the other tool for the end bearing??
When I put cam bearings in especially in a aluminum block I would get the bock up to 180 degrees in a washer and put the bearings in cold that way the block shrinks down on the bearings. Just saying
What needs to be explored is pinning the main bearings on the LS especially the 6.0L which tends to spin the #1 main. What’s your thoughts/experience with pinning the mains?
@@HeadFlowInc If the housing bore is right the bearing has enough crush to keep it from spinning. The bearing tangs are to locate the bearing. Alum. rod have a pin to locate the bearing not to keep it from spinning. If a bearing spins its the crank is getting against the bearing. Hope that helps.
Great how-to. I didn't even know there was an issue with LS cam bearings. (I'm just a hobbiest.) I'm about to tear into an aluminum 6.0L LFA, will definitely take a closer look at the cam bearings.
U didn’t show how u used the drill jig u made up for the middle bearings …. So why not drill it and tap it before bearings get installed and then install bearing and screw the set screw just putting pressure on the bearing vs like u did thru the bearing . Just wondering if that would work to ?
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you sir! Your the GOAT!
I just wanted to comment that I've been a cylinder head guy for about 45 years and worked at 3 different shops. Man your pretty sharp and I've found your videos helpful. 5:17
I’m loving seeing these old school simple fixes …
Definitely a LS game changer. Very smart Mr Brand.
Never owned an LS but Im glad I watched this just in case I ever do. Love the videos!
Love the videos! Always informative with all the little tricks people don't think about. Thanks so much.
Outstanding attention to detail..my ocd loves the series..👍
Gerald and Ruby y'all rock! Love all that you do for us to learn from! Peace
A old school bit brace, yes like grandpa used to drill holes is really nice to drive taps in smoothly and straight.. plus it's set up for square drive and has a pad on top to hold it straight and keep pressure on it.
I’ve seen avid where the cam brg moved side ways what sort of interferance r they std from fuctory ? Nice job man
Brother, this is great info. Thank you. This would save a lot of blocks if more shops would do this.
You made this look so easy. I’m wanting to start a 6.0 “build” (more like assemble) it’ll be my first and I got to admit the cam bearings is the most intimidating.
Just finishes making my jigs and first block, easy, once the jigs were made and a solid piece of mind. Thanks for the video.
🎉🎉 I DIDN'T KNOW THAT I COULD DO THIS 🎉🎉😊 THANKS MR BRAND.
Nice work!
Nice solid cam bearing installing tool, the universal adjusting ones don’t cut it. I used to have the Winona Van Norman cam bearing installer with about 30 different-size drivers.
Very good tip Gerald.
Thanks for sharing.
The only ones I have had spin was #3.
Usually the cam bore id still good.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks # 3 80 % of the time
Good job Mr Brand, you are the best in what you do, GOD BLESS YOU
I’ve never seen anything like this done. Thanks for sharing!
Clever, awesome tips. I can only imagine the tap breakers out there tho..,😳🤯😱
Great video Gerald! I have noticed the front cam bearing to be the problem child on the LS platform. Sadly most of the automotive machine shops in my area have gone out of business and all the new ones have mega overhead cost which makes it unaffordable.
Hey what part of the country u located at? In Philly lots of machines shop r out of business as well
Brilliant!!
I really hope that you are enjoying making content for your chanel Mr Brand, because you are a natural at it. Thank you.
Great tip and great builder for sharing his tips. Thanks
Love it. A simple solution to a common problem.
Very impressive repair. Always informative videos as always. Look forward too many more. Thank you for the time and instruction.
...that's just pure genious, right there - thanks Gerald !...
Glad to know someone figured it out thank you for the video
Nice fix. I have seen dozens of spun LS Cam bearings myself.
awesome tips and tricks Sir ty
Had a come back ate #1 exhaust push rod can't see anything wrong makes me wonder if cam bearing might have spun,Thinking I need to inspect future ,very helpful 🤔
Awesome! can you show us how you made your cam bearing installation tool?
Great Video!! That's a nice trick for the LS crowd
Thank you for posting every interesting videos. So glad to know small improvement makes big change !👍
are the hole in the oil valley already there ? or do you drill them yoursel? how do you know where to drill ?
Just found your channel, lots of cool insight, no nonsense.
Great topic for a video! I really wanted to do this to mine but no local shop were comfortable doing it!
It's not a big deal to do.
@@BrandRacingEnginesI think this sums up among other reasons why we watch. Thank you
Gerald & Ruby.... Thank you for this info, Love your content, Will be using this for sure.
Put a paint marker on your drill bit for proper depth .😊
It's like watching a magician!
Good alternative to correcting the bores if it works in a bind.
. We just index/bore/hone them all for the CHP-25R1 oversize bearings. We won’t machine a block without doing this as part of the process.
Why do these spin cam bearings? Especially the 6.0
@@warriorplutotrent3827 poor factory machining. They install semi finished bearings and size them in place, I’m told.
Did you drill thru the bearing before running the tap thru ? What did you use to deburr the bearing after tapping ?
Yes
🎉🎉JUST LITTLE THINGS THAT MAKE THE DIFFERENCE, BRAND TAKES PRIDE IN THE WORK AT HAND. (NICE) 🎉🎉😊. GOD BLESS ALL.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing
Awesome work as always Mr B
That intro is just fun.
Hi, Great information about the cam bearings,, I bought a gen3 5.3 ls motor and tore it down and the middle cam bearing just came uot with the cam and I had to use my dremel to cut the bearing in half ,, the journal looks ok and figured the bearing hadn't spun but the cam looks like its been heated ,, not scored just discolored at the center cam bearing .. I watched your video and thought this would be good insurance for the rebuild but this motor has knock sensors and look like its impossible to do # 2 and 4 bearings ,, am I right ? and would it be ok to do this just do the center bearing and #1 and 5?
Great video , and great idea pining the cam bearings , there’s a lot of speculation out there why the Ls motor spins cam bearings but no solid reason why. I was just looking at a LS oiling system diagram, and I see the oil galley that feeds oil to the cam bearings runs along side the cam bearing journal and then to the mains ,, and not directly to the cam bearings like a Gen 1 sbc. say you have a high milage LS with loose main and rod bearings, it looks to me the oil would leak out the loose rods and mains and preventing it from building enough pressure to feed oil to the cam bearings ?? I could be wrong , what’s your opinion why they tear up cam bearings ??
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
Your a good machinist/engine builder! Thanks for posting
I can't get enough of this channel. Have you got any videos or plan to make any working on a 385 series 460?
Has you ever seen an issue with the metallurgy between the set screw/bolts and bearings? Is there a expansion range from heat that may distort anything or is it to small to worry about? This is a really good trick of the trade!
No have had no problems with pining
If you continue to use the same fixtures for locating and drilling the holes in the block the fixture itself will start to wear out. I'd suggest the use of a hardened drill bushing inserted into your fixture to maintain and protect the original location, available from tool and die supply houses such as McMaster-Carr or Carr Lane Mfg. Nice idea to mechanically hold the bearing in place.
Thanks
if you have a chance on ur next video if u do another cam pin can u show us how you drilled the those for the middle 3 cam bearings
Looking good Gerald
Good job I'm not a ls guy but maybe one day
Neat! I didn’t know this was done .
Damn pretty simple solution!
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing
Loctite 620 retaining compound gets the same job done without all the hassle. Never had a cam bearing spin.
Have you checked the inside diameter of the bearings after the compound sets up?
it goes on the outside not the inside of the bearing @@aaronward3882
My Engine has 300,000 miles. It's definitely do for some cam bearings. I wonder if it will make it another 300,000 without this trick? Hell I probably won't last another 300,000. I let the next guy worry about it 😁
He is right loctite them in all my burnout engines are the same never spun a bearing
@@adammanuel4448are you talking about putting lock tight on the OD of the bearing itself. Because I have the same question
Dam mr Brand u a bad ass that’s a great tip
Knowledge is Power.
I will show a the drill jig installed on the block. Sorry I didn't get in that in the video.
ahhhh....so thats how you do thaaat....nice job geraldo
Just more voodoo
Nice work!
Thank You Mr Brand love watching your Vids so helpful old school rocks.... Do you have any content on the building of Damon Merhants engine? Sure proves old school again is the way Conven BBC out there in first place you should be so proud we alll are... Thanks again...
I have it in the shop. will post it
@@BrandRacingEngines Thanks Mr Brand iam 60 yrs old and have owned a Automotive Repair shop for 37 yrs , i have a couple 64 Novas one pro street and the other is still stock chassis both have 434 SBC strokers and it blows me away back when i cruised out of high school a 400hp engine was the rage today if your not showing up with a 800 -1000 hp your not going very far... I have great respect for You and all the old school mentors i have been blessed to learn from , High school Auto shop and Machine shop were so much of what you put on your content which proves corp owned Race engine shops may not treat every engine like a person like you that said have been a fan of Damon since i learned he was running Matt's Big 9 set up combined with your skill set that BBC made 51 runs , Damon released a vid Thursday while pulling the engine hoping it did not Window the block or mess the crank up beyhond repair, would love to see you show the repairs or rebuild its to me so impressive that a small home town machine shop and engine builder has built a engine combo that is beating up on engines that cost 3-4 times a BBC . Again thank you for all the educational Vids on Engine machine processes. Sound like Damon will be sticking to replacing the Aluim Rods on a maint basis from now on..Fred
... any experiences with Loctite, stud and bearing during install ?
Always love seeing your videos
What was the squirters drill jig that was used in the opening credits?
That was a drill jig I built to drill piston squirters.
Mr Brand if you have the time, can you explain why LS engines have can bearing problems. I’m obviously not a machinist or engine builder. But the cam spins exactly half the speed of the crank with a lighter load. My experience with small block ford and chevy was you can rebuild the bottom end and not touch the cam bearings and everything will be fine. But I constantly hear about LS cam bearings. Thank you sir. I truly enjoy watching your channel.
A split cam bearing
Always replace with a 1-piece cam bearing
Mr brand when a engine that comes back in that has this process done, do you just run the same tap in the existing hole on the front and rears? Couldn’t imagine you could go any bigger if the threads got buggered up on the block side. Nice info, keep’m coming!
Yes the same hole
So as far as I know all V8 engines small block Big Blocks LS is and so on all use a cam bearing. Hawaiian small-displacement engines like 4 cylinders in overhead cam engine like a 2JZ Toyota they don't run cam bearings. Now I know at times the cam cap and the head need to be line hone but that's pretty rare. Normally you can just drop a set of cams in torque it down and you're all good then you have a steel cam on an aluminum head or sometimes a Billet aluminum cam on aluminum head no bearings but absolutely no scoring
Have you tried Loctite 632? The green stuff, it’s made for press fit type situations. It’s worked good for me. I’ve never used it on cam bearings though. Seems like it’d be good for that, just don’t know if the oil and heat affect it.
Yes Didn't like the results
When you drill into the center ones does it leave a rough spot or burr you have to smooth up? Or does the hole come out smooth and clean? Awesome video
You have to remove the burr
@@BrandRacingEngines any tips or suggestion on removing the burr? I’m going to be doing this to my lq4 it’s a great idea
Nice trick
Mr. Brand I believe the way you tap the threads after helps to avoid burr introduction
THANKS
Awesome 😎 if there is an existing problem,,,and way too solve and or prevent said problem...By all means do so.. Awesome stuff....the only way it should be done. thanks
Nice work good thinking
Gerald, I've never heard of that being done, seems pretty straightforward too.
Has there been problems with LS engines spinning cam bearings? With your procedure, that'll never happen. 👍👍
No
Great channel all content is very helpful
Absolutely love this video how long of screws do you use going into the middle 3 ???
.750 to .875
That's BADASS Mr. Brand!
is there a problem with ls1 bearings spinning?
So let me be clear on this, You pre drill your holes and then install the bearings? Or do you drill the hole completely threw the bearing and then just use the washer to get the depth of the set screw so it doesn't go all the way threw? And where can I get one of these tools to align everything for the hole getting drilled threw the block? And the other tool for the end bearing??
Yes I would probably make one and sell it 300.00
@matthewhussey5357 Email me
would you pin bearings on stock rebuild, is sping bearing a problem on ls1
I'm mainly do it to eliminate. The aluminum blocks
Super useful👍
Another great information video
When I put cam bearings in especially in a aluminum block I would get the bock up to 180 degrees in a washer and put the bearings in cold that way the block shrinks down on the bearings. Just saying
Why in the 1st place does LS blocks have an issue with spinning cam bearings?. lack of oiling?
That part of it and lack of oil changes
good video thank you keep up the ls stuff
Great video Gerald! Super interesting!
What needs to be explored is pinning the main bearings on the LS especially the 6.0L which tends to spin the #1 main. What’s your thoughts/experience with pinning the mains?
Pining the main will not fix the problem. What running off the end of the crank.
@@BrandRacingEngines Can you explain why it wouldn’t fix the problem?
@@HeadFlowInc If the housing bore is right the bearing has enough crush to keep it from spinning. The bearing tangs are to locate the bearing. Alum. rod have a pin to locate the bearing not to keep it from spinning. If a bearing spins its the crank is getting against the bearing. Hope that helps.
I hear another tips and tricks video
He’s basically saying the crank is grabbing the bearing (clearances)
The jig you show is for gen 4 block right? What about a gen 3? How would you do gen 3 block?
By the way, love the video's and the info you share. Keep them coming.
Add spacer to the valley cover bolts so it sits on top of the knock sensor boss
Already at 12k subs badass man🤘🤘
Genious!!!
Great how-to. I didn't even know there was an issue with LS cam bearings. (I'm just a hobbiest.) I'm about to tear into an aluminum 6.0L LFA, will definitely take a closer look at the cam bearings.
Good tip 👍🏻🇦🇺
U should sell the tool to locate drill bit
any chance you would make and sell these drill fixtures?
Yes I would probably make one and sell it 300.00
U didn’t show how u used the drill jig u made up for the middle bearings …. So why not drill it and tap it before bearings get installed and then install bearing and screw the set screw just putting pressure on the bearing vs like u did thru the bearing . Just wondering if that would work to ?
Is this something we can also do on the GM lf4 twin turbo platform?
Nice work good sir!!