Thanks for the videos. I own a fleet of 8 trucks. Once I get my big shop built I hope to start rebuilding my own cat engines. I learn a lot from your videos. Keep them coming please.
I have used Lubriplate 105 for reassembly for more than 50 years. Dissolves almost instantly in warm oil. My roll in/out tools are short bolts with the heads ground down.
Great when an engine is this traditional configuration. More engines seem to have split blocks now that incorporate lower main bearings in the casing, thus screwing any in-frame bearing replacement. MAN & Kubota to name a couple. Thanks for the great video, love the use of the air brake diaphragms.
Fun fact. I used to work for Atlas-Copco in the industrial tools division. One of the multiple nut runners we made was a 32 spindle for Caterpillar heads (I don't remember what engine). I asked the engineers how they handled the toque sequence and to my surprise they didn't deal with it at all. Whichever bolt got tight first got tight first and so on. Not that you should ignore torque sequence but I don't think it's a critical as the manufacturers want you to believe. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
16:30 is also called "torque to yield " or TTY and your division of the hexagon into 60 degree increments is ingenious. Very true and seemingly obvious once stated. Your solution is excellent if an angle gauge won't fit or is unavailable. Cool. I will remember this seemingly simple yet profound technique.
I knew an older fella back in early 80s who had old dodge truck with 6 cylinder. About every 6 moths he would pull oil pan and shim bearings with really thin piece of leather type material. He ran it for many years hauling junk around the county but drove slow and easy all time .
I just had this done on my C15 Accert. They rolled in the rod and main bearings. I had an oil filter gasket fail and I lost 8 gallons of oil in a very short amount of time. No critical oil pressure warnings but I wanted to be sure. The bearings were very close to spinning according to the CAT folks when they pulled the #2 and #5 caps. I'm glad we didn't just fill her back up based on the lack of critical oil pressure warnings.
My bearing procedure is almost identical to yours. I use a long brass drift to push the bearings in instead of the screwdriver. Used to torque turn with an impact but we acquired a raptor pneumatic torque multiplier at work. That thing is awesome! Especially with the new Detroits that have to be angled 90 degreesX2 and Cummins head bolts that are 300 ft lbs + 90 degrees. Prior to the raptor we had to use a 1” impact gun when angling the ISX head bolts. I can’t say enough about the raptor, it’s a great piece of equipment!
Inframed dozens of Cummins 855's in the 60's and 70's...all the mains then were torqued to 300 ft lbs then lock plate tabs folded over. I used a 1/4 inch clevice pin to extrate the tuff ones instead of a heel bar. Usually dropped all caps except #2 and #6 ...rolled in 1-3-4-5-7 then after that #2 and #7 and the thrusts were on the #7 ...you need to experience torquing a full set of mains laying on a creeper to 300 ft lbs. Lol
I found dropping and replacing 1 through 4 main bearings as a group, then installing those main caps, and then dropping and replacing 5 through 7 allowed very easy installation of the upper main bearings.
My old man used to drive a cabover kenworth with a detroit. Coolant ate his mains and he did this job one and only time on the road in the cold cold north country of NY State.
I'm doing an inframe on a Cummins 8.3. Wasn't planning on replacing the mains, but after seeing your video, I see how easy it is. Just hope I don't have to torque up to 200-300 ft-lbs as all my 3/4 stuff is sockets, a rachet, and 3ft breaker bar. No impact larger than 1/2.
I and multiple people that I work with have discussed torque turns with a impact and we are all to scared to do it. It does show that actually in the Cummins manual but we just haven’t seen it done in front of us. The engines that we mainly work on are German and they use the bolts u hate most, but actually inverted torques have more surface area for the socket and the load side so I see their purpose doesn’t mean I disagree because I hate them as well. Anyway I could go on and on about torque turns and why the factory has us do them and why I was scared to use the impact but I won’t I’m just going to do it. Seriously thanks for showing us, this saves our backs shoulders and hell my ezy red 3/4 bar which I saw u have as well in the tool box video. Merry Christmas
I actually just gave that EZ Red away to an apprentice as a kind of gift since I got a replacement 3/4" snap on head and bar. I've done a lot of torque turns with impact wrenches, on main bolts, rod bolts and head bolts. No problems and I've seen lots of other guys do the same on Cats, but German engines are a whole different animal. You look at them wrong and it'll through a check engine light.
@@AdeptApe I have that snap on 3/4 bar and drive too but in the marine world we don’t have much room a lot of times ,and taking the different size bars on and off is a pain even if I put a pipe on the shortest one it just feels unstable. I love that extendable ezy red for that reason although I have slipped the gears a few times and hit myself in the mouth. Our heads are inverted torx e22 150ftlbs then 3 90 degree turns and our mains are 250ftlbs and 1 90 degree turn. The mains are conventional head bolt 27mm head and I’m going to try your trick on those and maybe work my way up to the heads.
Josh great advice on holding the bolts and cap. My friend was rebuilding a 400 big cam. He thought he had the main bolt threaded enough. It fell out and landed right on his mouth. Needs to say your front teeth are not stronger than the bolt. It was a bad deal.
Sorry to hear that. It’s tough learning on my own so that’s why I watch as many videos as I can. I used to be a armchair mechanic but now I’m actually doing it and love it.
Ok, I haven’t replaced any bearings for many years, but I have been told I’ve lost my bearings, and then there’s the issue now that I’m older of the wrench in my back. 😊. Josh, I hope you and your family have had a wonderful Christmas and can look forward to a happy and healthy new year.
I hope that this helps guys. degree of rotation = (360 / n) * m In this case, n = 6 (the number of sides of the bolt) and m = 2 (the number of sides rotated). Substituting these values in the formula, we get: degree of rotation = (360 / 6) * 2 degree of rotation = 60 * 2 degree of rotation = 120 So the bolt was rotated by 120 degrees when two flats of its six-sided structure were rotated.
Thanks for the nice, long, detailed video. And, often dust particles look more pronounced when being recorded using a light. In other words, it always looks worse than it really is.. Your quality is impressive! Merry Christmas sir!
i liked your video. i was told by an old mechanic to oil the back side of bearings as it promotes heat transfer. i have been working on 2 cycle Detroit for 40 years and cat only 20 and still learning.
Whether you oil it or not, oil will find its way in there all by itself. There is no O-rings stopping it. I've never taken a bearing off a cap that wasn't saturated with oil on the backside.
I use an old main bearing, that I bent an inch into one side as a handle, and use it to push the bearing out. But I'll have to try that oil gally trick on my next in-frame
Unlike a lot of people here I see little if any problem using an impact to angle torque. All that is required is to get the bolt to turn a certain distance and how that happens doesn't really mater. When removing and installing upper bearings under the vehicle I would slightly loosen all of the mains just enough to give a few thou more room. Along with the bearing removal tool this seemed to help quite a bit especially on installation but I had to be sure the bearings where properly located before pulling the crank back up.
@@AdeptApe only if you like doing front and rear main seals, but to each there own. you might get away with it on new seals but holding the crank up by the seals is asking for it
Excellent video tutorial. I take it you wash down engine downward after pulling sleeves then once more from bottom prior to bearing installs. Nice camera footage. Merry Christmas
@@AdeptApe I started using lint-free cloths last week when I was doing valve-cover gaskets on my 1999 Toyota Solara. It could be paranoia, but I just want to be super careful not to have leaks. I purchased them from advance Auto Parts which is an auto parts chain here around the Chicago area. They do carry some truck parts like headlight bulbs and I've used them for just that.
PRODIGY Adept Ape My teacher Adept Ape Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 🤶 Adept Ape Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. God has bless you thank you PRODIGY Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Josh great advice on holding the bolts and cap. My friend was rebuilding a 400 big cam. He thought he had the main bolt threaded enough. It fell out and landed right on his mouth. Needless to say your front teeth are not stronger than the bolt. It was a bad deal.
My 4X4 mainly off-road use hunting/fishing vehicles in Appalachian Mts where our off road hills get way over 16%. It will without a optional 100% full external oil pressured system run your oil sump dry on steep inclines. I drop many oil pan once my oil pressure start droping below 25 psi or below cold & replace main & rod bearings back with Std. Bearings without pulling the engine. Just be careful because a lots times them 4X4 frames will leave you the room to do it with. I did my 79 Bronco that way this fall in less than 4 hour job. It Increase oil pressure right back to normal. Our main problem is over our steep inclines is oil starvation. I never seen that in maintenance manuals but if you careful know what you doing it works. Of course inspect your journals for wear.
@AdeptApe I'll try it when I get an opportunity and I'll get back to you on that. I'd imagine probably have to push on the middle to keep it from bending while you push the bearing out
Jw if theres no issues with the crank or rods but had issues with the liners do i need to measure the bearing clearnces or do i just throw in standard bearings ?
I saw were a mechanic took all the main bearing caps down at the same time! Engine had the old rubber front seal, rolled main bearings in, and when he started it was running rough! I said you took them all down with none for support the crank just slightly? The crankshaft gear had dropped down far enough to jump a tooth! Engine cam and fuel system were out of time! They had to pull the front cover to re-time the engine! It was an early 3406A engine! True story!
What about placing gasket maker in the groove under the rear oil seal; is it necessary to prevent leaks past the seal and can it cause a problem with fit?
Im a mechanic and sometimes the upper main get really stiff when trying to push them in! any advice on how to roll them in easier? the only way I have done is using a flat screwdriver and a hammer and hit the bearing with it but i dont wanna keep doing this as it might damage the bearings and even the cramkshaft :/
Do you have a video on why a caterpillar motor at startup sounds ok,then sounds like it dies out but comes back? I got 2005 c15 accert, had injectors rebuild, new wire harness, but it was doing it before I had that work done.
I've taken a small bolt and ground most of the head off when I didn't have the tool, works on most engines but not all. As a side note, I worked with a guy that only put the bottom bearing in. I shuddered every time he did it.
@@AdeptApe left the top bearing in and replaced the bottom. He said the crank was being pushed away from the top bearing. My thought was that you can't buy just the bottom so you might as well change the tops too. I did one that he had done a few years earlier and there were fissures in the babbitt with some pieces of babbitt missing, it had about 200,000 on it since he'd done bearings.
We have a pressure washer bay, but it's well below freezing right now so it isn't getting used. The customer never washes their truck, not my fault and with all that said, I didn't start the job. I was given it after the oil pan and valve covers were already removed.
I have one question. Is there gonna be a noticeable difference regarding engine smoothness while running after the bearings replacement? Or an increase on something? Great video, very detailed and full of knowledge. I know it's such a noob question I'm just finding a more appealing reason to do the same work but on a sports bike other than just maintenance.
Hey I am going to medium/ heavy duty diesel school and I was curious what would be better for me to work for a company hourly or flat rate ? Plz any advise is appreciated!
They don't look that bad , what was the milage ? Also what miles or hours of run time would you recommend the big end bearings and thrust washers to be replaced , on a 2003 / 4 C15 ? I was thinking to change mine at the 2 million mark when is come , it's at 1.5 million now, I have good oil pressure so best leave it alone if it's not a issue .
I agree but if I were you I'd start doing oil sample analysis with each oil change so that you can catch a bearing that's starting to wear before it gets too bad and spins
I have an MXS with just over 1.3 million miles on it, never been apart, do you think I should roll the bearings in it for good measure or just keep running it until it's time for a platinum kit ? It sure runs good still.
i my self have never ran head,main or rod bolts up with an impact. i’ve allways used hand tools an a 1/2”or 3/4” torque wrench to finish up. an yes i am old school !
using the impact is just to make it easier to run the bolt in!!! that is what I do with most things because impacting parts on a vehicle may not always be a ggd idea.
Great video. Thanx a lot for these kind of videos. I have one question. I thought that the tab prevents rotating the bearing inside the cap. But if the crush prevent that, i need to know the purpose of that tab on the bearings ?
@@AdeptApe @AdeptApe Thank you very much sir for your reply. These videos are very much helpful to us and we always thankful to you. " whish you a Merry Christmas "
What recording did you take your intro music from? Of course it is the opening of the 4th movement of Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. But, many orchestras play this much slower. So, I’m asking about the details of this recording.
Thanks for the videos. I own a fleet of 8 trucks. Once I get my big shop built I hope to start rebuilding my own cat engines. I learn a lot from your videos. Keep them coming please.
I am also planning the same. can we so it together. where are u located. if u r interested. Reply
I have used Lubriplate 105 for reassembly for more than 50 years. Dissolves almost instantly in warm oil. My roll in/out tools are short bolts with the heads ground down.
Great when an engine is this traditional configuration. More engines seem to have split blocks now that incorporate lower main bearings in the casing, thus screwing any in-frame bearing replacement. MAN & Kubota to name a couple. Thanks for the great video, love the use of the air brake diaphragms.
Iveco Cursor too((((
It’s purposeful, as it’s functionally much stronger to use a split block/bed-plate design.
Kubota has a modular crank That is inserted into the Block in the round mains
Slid more than few sets of bearing in . Y'all done good
From an old wrencher
Fun fact. I used to work for Atlas-Copco in the industrial tools division. One of the multiple nut runners we made was a 32 spindle for Caterpillar heads (I don't remember what engine). I asked the engineers how they handled the toque sequence and to my surprise they didn't deal with it at all. Whichever bolt got tight first got tight first and so on. Not that you should ignore torque sequence but I don't think it's a critical as the manufacturers want you to believe. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
Atlas 🥰💗💗
And guys like this are why engine blocks warp!
So tolerances for bearing sizes matter but not torque sequences or values? Hmm 😅
A new guy that asked a guy that said a guy knew everything. Nobody could tell him what to do.
16:30 is also called "torque to yield " or TTY and your division of the hexagon into 60 degree increments is ingenious. Very true and seemingly obvious once stated. Your solution is excellent if an angle gauge won't fit or is unavailable. Cool. I will remember this seemingly simple yet profound technique.
I knew an older fella back in early 80s who had old dodge truck with 6 cylinder. About every 6 moths he would pull oil pan and shim bearings with really thin piece of leather type material. He ran it for many years hauling junk around the county but drove slow and easy all time .
Awesome
Lol shouldn't need to do this every 6 months there was something wring if they needed adjusting lmao
@@digger_jon2778the leather would break down and he would need to reshim the bearings. You're skull is thicc boi
I just had this done on my C15 Accert. They rolled in the rod and main bearings. I had an oil filter gasket fail and I lost 8 gallons of oil in a very short amount of time. No critical oil pressure warnings but I wanted to be sure. The bearings were very close to spinning according to the CAT folks when they pulled the #2 and #5 caps. I'm glad we didn't just fill her back up based on the lack of critical oil pressure warnings.
My bearing procedure is almost identical to yours. I use a long brass drift to push the bearings in instead of the screwdriver. Used to torque turn with an impact but we acquired a raptor pneumatic torque multiplier at work. That thing is awesome! Especially with the new Detroits that have to be angled 90 degreesX2 and Cummins head bolts that are 300 ft lbs + 90 degrees. Prior to the raptor we had to use a 1” impact gun when angling the ISX head bolts. I can’t say enough about the raptor, it’s a great piece of equipment!
Inframed dozens of Cummins 855's in the 60's and 70's...all the mains then were torqued to 300 ft lbs then lock plate tabs folded over. I used a 1/4 inch clevice pin to extrate the tuff ones instead of a heel bar. Usually dropped all caps except #2 and #6 ...rolled in 1-3-4-5-7 then after that #2 and #7 and the thrusts were on the #7 ...you need to experience torquing a full set of mains laying on a creeper to 300 ft lbs. Lol
I found dropping and replacing 1 through 4 main bearings as a group, then installing those main caps, and then dropping and replacing 5 through 7 allowed very easy installation of the upper main bearings.
I'm working on a 1980 300 big cam right now, not alot of fun
i’ve done several cummins my self an i used a brass rivet on tha hard ones,put it n tha oil hole n tha crank an bar it around
idk but this video was oddly relaxing to have play in the background while i looked at my main bearings
My old man used to drive a cabover kenworth with a detroit. Coolant ate his mains and he did this job one and only time on the road in the cold cold north country of NY State.
I'm balls deep in rebuilding my c15 and was debating if the main bolts should be done by hand or with a gun , I'm now sold on using the gun
I'm doing an inframe on a Cummins 8.3. Wasn't planning on replacing the mains, but after seeing your video, I see how easy it is. Just hope I don't have to torque up to 200-300 ft-lbs as all my 3/4 stuff is sockets, a rachet, and 3ft breaker bar. No impact larger than 1/2.
I and multiple people that I work with have discussed torque turns with a impact and we are all to scared to do it. It does show that actually in the Cummins manual but we just haven’t seen it done in front of us. The engines that we mainly work on are German and they use the bolts u hate most, but actually inverted torques have more surface area for the socket and the load side so I see their purpose doesn’t mean I disagree because I hate them as well. Anyway I could go on and on about torque turns and why the factory has us do them and why I was scared to use the impact but I won’t I’m just going to do it. Seriously thanks for showing us, this saves our backs shoulders and hell my ezy red 3/4 bar which I saw u have as well in the tool box video. Merry Christmas
I actually just gave that EZ Red away to an apprentice as a kind of gift since I got a replacement 3/4" snap on head and bar. I've done a lot of torque turns with impact wrenches, on main bolts, rod bolts and head bolts. No problems and I've seen lots of other guys do the same on Cats, but German engines are a whole different animal. You look at them wrong and it'll through a check engine light.
@@AdeptApe I have that snap on 3/4 bar and drive too but in the marine world we don’t have much room a lot of times ,and taking the different size bars on and off is a pain even if I put a pipe on the shortest one it just feels unstable. I love that extendable ezy red for that reason although I have slipped the gears a few times and hit myself in the mouth. Our heads are inverted torx e22 150ftlbs then 3 90 degree turns and our mains are 250ftlbs and 1 90 degree turn. The mains are conventional head bolt 27mm head and I’m going to try your trick on those and maybe work my way up to the heads.
Merry Christmas! This video is nominated for “Joshua’s Best Video” of 2022.
After a year diesel School in Vo-Tech, swapping main and rod bearings of an in frame engine rebuild was one of my more fond memories
Josh great advice on holding the bolts and cap. My friend was rebuilding a 400 big cam. He thought he had the main bolt threaded enough. It fell out and landed right on his mouth. Needs to say your front teeth are not stronger than the bolt. It was a bad deal.
Sorry to hear that. It’s tough learning on my own so that’s why I watch as many videos as I can. I used to be a armchair mechanic but now I’m actually doing it and love it.
Oh man
Jĺlppp00p0p0
Including the cam shaft inspection was icing on the cake 👌
I use that roll out trick on John Deere’s, end up just grinding a small bolt down it works great
Thank you Josh. I keep learning from you .
Ok, I haven’t replaced any bearings for many years, but I have been told I’ve lost my bearings, and then there’s the issue now that I’m older of the wrench in my back. 😊. Josh, I hope you and your family have had a wonderful Christmas and can look forward to a happy and healthy new year.
Hi Larry. Merry Christmas to you abd yours as well.
I hope that this helps guys.
degree of rotation = (360 / n) * m
In this case, n = 6 (the number of sides of the bolt) and m = 2 (the number of sides rotated). Substituting these values in the formula, we get:
degree of rotation = (360 / 6) * 2 degree of rotation = 60 * 2 degree of rotation = 120
So the bolt was rotated by 120 degrees when two flats of its six-sided structure were rotated.
Thanks for the nice, long, detailed video. And, often dust particles look more pronounced when being recorded using a light. In other words, it always looks worse than it really is.. Your quality is impressive! Merry Christmas sir!
i liked your video. i was told by an old mechanic to oil the back side of bearings as it promotes heat transfer. i have been working on 2 cycle Detroit for 40 years and cat only 20 and still learning.
Changes clearance
Whether you oil it or not, oil will find its way in there all by itself. There is no O-rings stopping it. I've never taken a bearing off a cap that wasn't saturated with oil on the backside.
@@wally7856true.
I use an old main bearing, that I bent an inch into one side as a handle, and use it to push the bearing out. But I'll have to try that oil gally trick on my next in-frame
I was always taught that the bearing tab kept them from spinning. Guess ya learn more than you thought you would with Adept Ape :)
Unlike a lot of people here I see little if any problem using an impact to angle torque. All that is required is to get the bolt to turn a certain distance and how that happens doesn't really mater. When removing and installing upper bearings under the vehicle I would slightly loosen all of the mains just enough to give a few thou more room. Along with the bearing removal tool this seemed to help quite a bit especially on installation but I had to be sure the bearings where properly located before pulling the crank back up.
I agree, do the torque with a torque wrench and then the bolt doesn't care how it makes the turn.
I'm sure the uppers would be a lot easier if all the caps were loose.
@@AdeptApe only if you like doing front and rear main seals, but to each there own. you might get away with it on new seals but holding the crank up by the seals is asking for it
@@AdeptApe Seen fan belts to tight making the front upper bearing had to R & I. Especially on a 3208 that has several belts.
Excellent video tutorial. I take it you wash down engine downward after pulling sleeves then once more from bottom prior to bearing installs. Nice camera footage.
Merry Christmas
I'll brake clean the liner bores and the bearing journals before installation of anything.
@@AdeptApe
I started using lint-free cloths last week when I was doing valve-cover gaskets on my 1999 Toyota Solara. It could be paranoia, but I just want to be super careful not to have leaks.
I purchased them from advance Auto Parts which is an auto parts chain here around the Chicago area. They do carry some truck parts like headlight bulbs and I've used them for just that.
Excellent video, well explained step by step and great visual
Hi. What's the name of the pin that you use to remove the bearing? Is not showed on the list of tools
Great video. I didn't know how to change bearings on an assembled motor. This makes it look easy. Merry Christmas.
I have used a cotter pin bent in a "L" shape to bearings while overhauling an engine in chassis.
PRODIGY Adept Ape
My teacher Adept Ape
Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 🤶 Adept Ape
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. God has bless you thank you
PRODIGY Adept Ape
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thank you Nick.
Thank you!!! I love how concise this video is!
Merry Christmas and thanks for the great tips, always a pleasure to learn from a master.
SOLID video........ I believe I can do it! Perhaps good rule of thumb to simply use the same size, good bearings?
Thank you for post! Most appreciated! Have a great Christmas!
Josh great advice on holding the bolts and cap. My friend was rebuilding a 400 big cam. He thought he had the main bolt threaded enough. It fell out and landed right on his mouth. Needless to say your front teeth are not stronger than the bolt. It was a bad deal.
My 4X4 mainly off-road use hunting/fishing vehicles in Appalachian Mts where our off road hills get way over 16%. It will without a optional 100% full external oil pressured system run your oil sump dry on steep inclines. I drop many oil pan once my oil pressure start droping below 25 psi or below cold & replace main & rod bearings back with Std. Bearings without pulling the engine. Just be careful because a lots times them 4X4 frames will leave you the room to do it with. I did my 79 Bronco that way this fall in less than 4 hour job. It Increase oil pressure right back to normal. Our main problem is over our steep inclines is oil starvation. I never seen that in maintenance manuals but if you careful know what you doing it works. Of course inspect your journals for wear.
I've heard using a butter knife with the blade bent in a curve works pretty well. Haven't had an opportunity to try it yet though
That seems like it wouldn't be strong enough for a Diesel Engine.
@AdeptApe I'll try it when I get an opportunity and I'll get back to you on that. I'd imagine probably have to push on the middle to keep it from bending while you push the bearing out
WITH THIS TRICK , WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER?
Jw if theres no issues with the crank or rods but had issues with the liners do i need to measure the bearing clearnces or do i just throw in standard bearings ?
Awesome work awesome teacher
Mains I’m coming for you
Show em who's boss
Merry Christmas to you and your family Josh. Stay safe and healthy.
Thank you Badger. Merry Christmas to you.
I saw were a mechanic took all the main bearing caps down at the same time! Engine had the old rubber front seal, rolled main bearings in, and when he started it was running rough! I said you took them all down with none for support the crank just slightly? The crankshaft gear had dropped down far enough to jump a tooth! Engine cam and fuel system were out of time! They had to pull the front cover to re-time the engine! It was an early 3406A engine! True story!
That's a really cool story. Not for him though. I always have left at least 2 mains in no matter what.
Do you have a link for the tool you put in the oil hole to roll the bearing in?
Was hoping to get this for myself as well
Thank u for this video, now I think I can remove my pan from continental 4 in my mf 50 tractor, and try replacing them
Thanks for all the great videos.
Merry Christmas too you and your family. Let’s have great new year!!!
I have a 3126B apart that only has 55,000 miles on it. Do I need to use new bolts on the head, main caps and rod caps? Thanks for all the videos.
Props for not throwing away good oil 👍
Thanks! I’m just about to do this to my Cummins N14
Congrats on 200k! Merry Christmas!
Thank you RJ.
Awesome video, thank you so much for all of your content.
What about placing gasket maker in the groove under the rear oil seal; is it necessary to prevent leaks past the seal and can it cause a problem with fit?
18:30... all that dust, is why I prefer face shields over glasses/goggles when working underneath.
Im a mechanic and sometimes the upper main get really stiff when trying to push them in! any advice on how to roll them in easier? the only way I have done is using a flat screwdriver and a hammer and hit the bearing with it but i dont wanna keep doing this as it might damage the bearings and even the cramkshaft :/
That 5EK looks pretty good
Very Clean explanation thanks
Do you have a video on why a caterpillar motor at startup sounds ok,then sounds like it dies out but comes back? I got 2005 c15 accert, had injectors rebuild, new wire harness, but it was doing it before I had that work done.
Merry Christmas. How would you know when this operation is needed?
Question, could you use a torque multiplier on the two flat tighten spec?
do you torque before you do all? or have you already done all the bearings at this point?
THANKS BROSKI. MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄
I've taken a small bolt and ground most of the head off when I didn't have the tool, works on most engines but not all. As a side note, I worked with a guy that only put the bottom bearing in. I shuddered every time he did it.
The other guy left the top bearing out or he only replaced the bottom bearing?
@@AdeptApe left the top bearing in and replaced the bottom. He said the crank was being pushed away from the top bearing. My thought was that you can't buy just the bottom so you might as well change the tops too. I did one that he had done a few years earlier and there were fissures in the babbitt with some pieces of babbitt missing, it had about 200,000 on it since he'd done bearings.
1.2M on a KCB C13. consistent oil pressure. When should I do mine? 22k hours. No idle.
why didn't u steam genie under the hood before beginning work to get rid of the loose dirt?
We have a pressure washer bay, but it's well below freezing right now so it isn't getting used. The customer never washes their truck, not my fault and with all that said, I didn't start the job. I was given it after the oil pan and valve covers were already removed.
Thank you have a great holiday
question. If the bearing is warped or in rough shape, would that mean i'll need to get new pistons also?
I have one question. Is there gonna be a noticeable difference regarding engine smoothness while running after the bearings replacement? Or an increase on something?
Great video, very detailed and full of knowledge.
I know it's such a noob question I'm just finding a more appealing reason to do the same work but on a sports bike other than just maintenance.
Great video...Cat for life 😊
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Josh always very interesting
Only one thing, normally, you need to measure the bolts, if you exceed the specification, you need to change them, if not, just reuse them.
Just a question why do you not use lucas in your engines
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸
congratulations on 200k
Thanks for noticing, thinking of doing a live stream about it, not sure yet.
Hey I am going to medium/ heavy duty diesel school and I was curious what would be better for me to work for a company hourly or flat rate ? Plz any advise is appreciated!
How do i know if i should order standard size or .10 over size bearings?
top notch as usual happy christmas
They don't look that bad , what was the milage ? Also what miles or hours of run time would you recommend the big end bearings and thrust washers to be replaced , on a 2003 / 4 C15 ?
I was thinking to change mine at the 2 million mark when is come , it's at 1.5 million now, I have good oil pressure so best leave it alone if it's not a issue .
I agree but if I were you I'd start doing oil sample analysis with each oil change so that you can catch a bearing that's starting to wear before it gets too bad and spins
Have you ever done overhead valve adjustment
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
Always good to learn.. ty Merry Christmas
Thank you for the video
I have an MXS with just over 1.3 million miles on it, never been apart, do you think I should roll the bearings in it for good measure or just keep running it until it's time for a platinum kit ? It sure runs good still.
Oil pressure and oil samples are good? I'd save your money for a repair when you need it.
4:12 I had a rod cap from a Suzuki Samurai hit me in the face that that was upsetting enough, and it didn't weigh anywhere near 10 pounds.
13:13 Not a mechanic but I was wondering if you could use a plastic trim tool to roll the bearing in rather than a screwdriver?
Thats what i was thinking
i my self have never ran head,main or rod bolts up with an impact. i’ve allways used hand tools an a 1/2”or 3/4” torque wrench to finish up. an yes i am old school !
Maybe switch to elec rattle gun to reduce air flinging around dust?
using the impact is just to make it easier to run the bolt in!!! that is what I do with most things because impacting parts on a vehicle may not always be a ggd idea.
My Cat oil samples keep coming back 'no action required' so I think I'm ok on bearings for now. 1.5M on my 6NZ and still runs awesome
Km or miles?
I'd replace the mains and rods anyways because the slow wear might not be picked up by oil analysis.
@@kodykj2112 Miles
@@Eastahtata the oil samples go to Cat Analytical Services in PA and they don't miss a thing
@@Eastahtatacan’t (and shouldn’t ) rebuild everything
great video.
What marking pens do you use? The ones we get here seem to wash off easy
Good video thanks
Harrison Slough from I-90 sure is beautiful.
You work from the inside to out with the mains or it doesn't matter?
I liked this before watching .. :-)
We’re do u get the tool to push out the bearing???
Great video. Thanx a lot for these kind of videos. I have one question. I thought that the tab prevents rotating the bearing inside the cap. But if the crush prevent that, i need to know the purpose of that tab on the bearings ?
The tab is for aligning the bearing in the journal bore during installation.
@@AdeptApe @AdeptApe Thank you very much sir for your reply. These videos are very much helpful to us and we always thankful to you. " whish you a Merry Christmas "
What are the symptoms of these bearings being worn?
What recording did you take your intro music from? Of course it is the opening of the 4th movement of Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. But, many orchestras play this much slower. So, I’m asking about the details of this recording.
I believe I sped up the music recording to make it faster by 2% or so in my video editing software.
@@AdeptApe
Petsonally-I miss the old time spinning yin and yan black and white spirals which would give me vertigo before watching your videos. 🙃