I suggest a Part 2, where you build 2 complete engines, identical except for the bore finish. Then put them on a DYNO to test power, compression, oil consumption, etc.
It wont work that easy... Tolerances matters. One will be done in minimum, second will be little bit looser but still in toleration and whole test would lie... :) But it's an intresting concept. I guess mirror finish will be better if You have some really hard shell like nicasil in BMW, otherwise honing will be better, living longer with same preformance.
@@KenjiDev There is a reason why cylinders have been honed for the past 100 years. Mirror finish gives the oil a hard time to stick and lubricate the pistons.
@@KenjiDev You could actually prepare bores with identical TOLERANCES, but different finishes. Different rings require different "RA" numbers. This determines the grit of the finishing stones. Achieving a "mirror" finish would entail using something much finer and smoother. But the final bore sizes could theoretically be made identical.
I want to see another tear down after 20 000 km. of daily driving. It appears 1000 km largely motorway driving wasn't enough to show the very small difference.
Back in the 80s, I rebuilt an engine in the parking lot. I hand honed my cylinders not knowing what I was doing. When I first started driving after the "rebuild", the engine was really down on power. It took about 1000 miles for the piston rings to seat and the further I drove, the power slowly increased.
Rings and especially diy honing tools have come a long way. Now a days a flex hone can give you a killer finish if you go roughly the right speed up and down, and make sure you clean them real good. Rings now a days don’t have any problem sealing
The problem there was that the bores don’t wear round, they wear into a tapered egg shape. Rings can’t follow those cylinder walls. Out of curiosity, was it a Chevy 350? They used soft cast iron like the Ford Windsors did, but had a taller deck height and longer stroke in the 389 and 302, so they don’t wear as much as the Chevy. The 351W’s were not as plentiful so I don’t have much experience with them. Maybe one a year would come into the shop.
I ran 5hp. Briggs and Stratton engines on a race kart. I would rebuild several with hyperotective pistons with zero gap rings and use them at my home and shop for a year to break in the rings. then tear them down come spring and put the billet rod,loose fit by .005 over stock. long poly oil flipper, tuff ride crank. It was amazing the difference then just honing, build, race…..
The homing effectively creates Labyrinth seals allowing oil retention that creeps back onto the aspirites where the reduced area metal to metal contact occurs between rings and cylinder. The unanswered question is how many km before all the bores present the same compression and what would the comparative ovality of bore look like? Higher compression would reasonably wear faster but might suffer increased ovality over the lower loaded cylinders in my estimation. Carbon build up would also lead to higher compression and reduce the equilibrium wear indication needed so maybe then do a decoke and check again would satisfy the conjecture nicely.....
When i was young i used to hear guys talk about ' chrome plated rings ' taking a long time to ' break in '. I thought that sounded like it had to wear through the chrome plating and sounded dumb like it defeated the whole purpose of the chrome. I then had a 350 chevy short block to rebuild and miked it all out. It had mirror finish cylinders with almost zero wear so i thought i would try something. I installed chrome plated rings without touching the cylinder finish. When i had 7 pistons in i could still turn it over by hand on the crank weights. I didnt need a wrench until i had all 8 installed. I put it all together and it ran clean and fine right from the start. It ran well and at about 20,000 miles i drove it across country getting terrific gas mileage.
@@sp33drr it meant a lot to me. I used to watch friends rebuild short blocks and be lucky if it worked at all. For mostly backyard engine building I went on my own knowledge of engines plus a few ideas of my own and I drove my engine across country towing things. Sorry if I didn't have proper flow charts and proper records. I did mic everything and made sure all my rod caps were as ' round ' as possible. I was 21
Which is why engines need constant(ish) oil changes. Because the oil thickens over time. (There's ten replies about viscosity, go read those before replying.)
no matter what you have, though, without the crosshatch, there's no way for the oil to get up to the rings. And it rotates the rings to keep the wear even.
@@jwalster9412depends on the oil. I’ve seen thermal breakdown where the oil gets too thin to hold pressure in the pump. I’ve also seen some cars turn it to sludge. Toss up?
the honed cylinders had less deposits on the valve than the polished cylinders. i was aware that you want to hone cylinders before installing new rings for best results, but it's nice to see it confirmed.
@@solarsynapse There is way more to that, than simple ringed or not. ABC linears are chrome plated or made of chromium. Chrome is very hard and have low friction. They run on premix so lubricating oil comes from both sides. They run on high revs so blowby isn't big problem. Most important, they don't last very long.
The two angle cross hatch pattern has two purposes. The first is to provide lubrication to the rings. And the steeper angle causes the rings to rotate to keep the cylinder wearing evenly preventing premature wear.
@@WhatsIncluded With an offset, gasses do not have a direct straight line to flow past the gaps, they do all spin a little, they don't spin the same amount, so after some time they would probably fix themselves at least a little, but it does help.
My understanding is that the honing serves 2 major purposes: 1) it traps oil against the cylinder walls for lubrication. The oil also helps the rings seal. 2) it helps the rings wear in when the engine is new (or fresh rebuild) and helps them seal better. A mirror finish would be better with a soft o-ring because the texture of the honing will shred the o-ring.
@@NotAnonymousNo80014 We need cars like this in the US. Our auto industry has let us down in a major way by putting their efforts into making cars that are needlessly expensive, difficult to repair, and that have features that are unnecessary, such as complicated audio systems.
@@NotAnonymousNo80014 Lada engines are built on very old porsche tech and Russians are quite experienced with metal casting. Lada's problems stem from poor fit and finish which are quite easily corrected if one has any idea how cars work. The other downside is they are quite uncomfortable to drive since everything is made simple as possible, no sophisticated undercarriage. Plus side is Lada's are pretty much bulletproof, you will always get from A to B.
As an engineer, trust me you need honing on the cylinder wall because of the lubrication, polished cylinders cause increased engine wear because the oil is not staying on the wall and lubricating it. That also worsens the thermals.
You talk about Teflon in a pan? Your ideal finish is probably sandpaper. Air presses past the rings through the drainage groves and pushed the oil onto the pan.
And what are you talking about, one time drag race ? Maybe for the extreme performance but if you want longetivity of the engine you need good lubrication and cooling effect.
@@patrickday4206 I learned that the lowest piston ring is there to remove oil from the walls. I guess that you could have a 4-stroke with a single piston ring and no lubrication problems. It would just drink a little more oil. Race engines have less rings because they get fresh oil before every race anyway.
I swear these guys can read minds... I was wondering exactly this yesterday while thinking about sleeveless alloy engines (like Briggs and Stratton Koolbore) requiring a mirror finish in order to not eat themselves to death. I think it's a 2 stroke trait though, whereas a 4 stroke requires the honing to hold oil on the walls.
Your guys do a fantastic job working on the engines you direct them to modify, I really like you and the channel, I wish there were as many old Ladas here in the USA, they seem to be really dependable reliable.
@@Skaadi89 Not if you're a professional lol. They use surface profilometers to measure the actual microscopic peaks and get the finish exactly how they want it. You don't want to have to break in a race engine cause now it's lost a bit more of it's already short life. You fire it up, check the tune, maybe check a two-step if you're drag racing, then you quickly shut it off. You want to run it as little as possible unless its actually racing.
I'M A MECHANIC HERE, and I know of a problem that Audi suffered by making the cylinders with a mirror finish, the lack of honed caused excessive oil burning in the engine of the Audi A4 sedan, a friend of mine who worked at Audi spent almost a year reworking these engines, dismantling and grunting and assembling these cars, and the results match the video demonstration, so it's decided that honed is necessary
@@midgetrace My dad's car with 250k miles still has it's cylinders honed in a cross pattern. Definitely went not away within breakin period, as they shouldn't
My Chevy 350 had 266k miles on it and when I took it to the shop they swore that there was no way it had more than 150k miles on it. Seven of the eight cylinders had the factory crosshatch and perfect compression. Only one was smooth on one side, where the head cracked and dumped coolant in the cylinder, thus the rebuild. All I did was regular oil changes with a good quality filter and high rated cheep oil every 3k.
I really like the off the wall ideas being put to test from this group!! Seem some stuff that you'd never think would work actually work! I bet this group can actually fix anything that thrown at them.
This was an interesting test. I suspect that the greatest advantages of crosshatch honing are: 1) Increased oil-film adhesion resulting in reduced cylinder corrosion during long periods of storage. 2) Increased oil-film adhesion resulting in reduced cylinder scuffing during startup, after long periods of storage. 3) Reduced piston-ring friction resulting in greater power and fuel efficiency. Reduced friction is partly due to oil adhesion, and partly due to reduced contact area and normal force. 4) Reduced piston-ring friction resulting in reduced coolant temperatures.
I guess it does matter on what type of rings you're using . But the 22 degrees (roughly) is important for proper oiling . But a standard nodular quick seater ring will have a hard time getting a seat on a polished wall texture, where as a chrome ring will be more at home with a polished surface . I figured 1 and three would have a better time with oil control . I built a lot of engines over the years though . Good work guys . :)
You are lucky, your dream car is easily achievable. For me it was the opposite because they only built 400 of my dream car. and it cost me waay more than its worth to get it here I even had to ship it from another country/continent. If I can do it so can you.
@@rsemrad2 basically the smooth creates more carbon in the heads from the piston rings removing hundredths or thousandths of metal from the cylinder walls and themselves through contact. A smooth bore would allow equal distribution of pressure around the cylinders but momentum would mean the pistons have just enough wiggle room to touch the cylinder walls where as with a honed bore, you would have those pockets of unequal pressure filled with fluid and fluid is dynamic which means the pressure would force the oil into the low pressure pockets, thus creating a smaller area for pressure to build up and equalizing the pressure. In the smooth bore that pressure only sits in one area and is dispersed on the 3rd stroke instead of every stroke in the process. It means your rings will wear out faster and if there's blow by, then it's just as hard and as fast going the other direction as it is going in the intended direction
@@doopiej yes and as the brother explained, when your cylinders get hot enough, they’ll burn deposits away, which means those rings have a higher chance of failing in those cylinders
I knew the extention one because we did it at tech school. We put 16ft of extentions on a torque wrench and it was exactly where it should be. On the other hand, I did not know about the anti-seize. That's really good to know.
I was watching the hydraulic press channel, where they were showing some huge bearings. It would be cool to see you guys fit those to a Lada to make some kind of wheel for it.
Back in the early 90s, I did a ring job on a 4 cylinder engine that had stuck rings on one cylinder and a cracked piston in another I honed the cylinders and after a week of regular driving, I took it for a 350 mile round trip that took about 6 hours. That engine never used any oil after that. It used half a quart during break in and that was all it ever used during the time we had that car.
Depends on the ring package more than anything else. For best performance (and will use some oil): Typical cylinder bore finish readings of Pro Stock or Comp Eliminator, or NASCAR engines are as follows: Rpk 4 to 6; Rk 18 to 22; Rvk 18 to 32
The way ive been told about honong - you can only get so good of a machined finish. So adding in the cross hatching (in addition to letting it retain some oil during break in) allows the rings to essentially machine themselves to the cylinder - implying a mirror finish is what you're going for, but you'll never really achieve if you need specific tolerance
The honing holds a small amount of oil in the crosshatching. Compression is maintained with this. As in when loss of compression due to worn rings adding oil increases compression.
I think the differences have occured between the pistons because the honing and polishing was done by hand rather than on a machine. those slight variences are then multiplied by the thermo-cycling of the engine giving rise to those differences seen in the engine.
The polished cylinders will probably need around 10,000Km before rings seat properly. Honed cylinders will bed in rings faster plus, the 'scratches' allow an oil film to lubricate rings.
There was a Fascinating video the other day on daves auto Centre RUclips channel where they had a guy on discussing this exact topic. He's a specialist in the field and scan the bore after honing to see how many troughs it has for oil!
Honing is about durability not compression. It's main purpose is to create a film of oil under the piston rings in the valleys trapped.oil in Shiny cylinders will get wiped right away by piston rings.
It really depends on the ring type as to what the best finish is for new ones on a good engine. Lake Speed Jr. of Total Seal has a few videos on this over on their YT channel.
Dont support sexual changes, support ppl accepting how they were born. Thats what gender affirmation should be, not the inverted and harmful meaning deceptive ones use.
I've twice deglazed/honed motorcycle engines by hand with sandpaper. 100 grit perhaps. Quick to break in and never had any oil blowby. Just worked it at that same 40/45 deg angle. FWIW.
The fuel used is a big factor when it comes to the carbon buildup as well. The carburetor maybe running rich as well. Put 5km on the engine then recheck for the compression, oil consumption, and carbon buildup. Also check for even heating and cooling in the block. You may have cold spots or hot spots in the head and block
@@Dannysoutherner GM jumped the shark with that aluminum 140 cubic inch engine in the Vega. In 1976, they finally worked out the bugs and called it the Dura-Built 140 but, the car's reputation was toast at that point.
@@BlackPill-pu4vi I had a 77 Vega when I was a teen. It moved under its own power and price was right so it was a great car to me. Blew a head gasket, my fault. Fixed that and learned a lot along the way. My mom borrowed it one night and piled it up. Todays rolling iPhones I have no use for. Give me pre 90s any day.
@@JeffKopis Yes. The 2.0 Cosworth engine that did get put in the Vega has massive tuning potential. It was choked by the smog equipment of the time. Some car magazine (don't remember) desmogged a Cosworth Vega and that engine really woke up. New non-smog camshaft, fuel, timing, that engine's power really came out.
Carbon deposits don't necessarily come from burning oil. Gasoline is a hyroCARBON fuel. Incomplete combustion can leave carbon deposits. Too little air can make the engine smoke, right? Love the video!
Wellll, hone finish depends on the ring material. In the 1960s chrome plated rings were common. These required a fairly coarse cylinder wall finish to enable the rings to wear into the cylinder walls. On initial startup the friction was high and it may take 30.000km for the engine to break in. Then we progressed to a molybdenum infill in the top ring face. This required a smoother cylinder finish applied using finer grit stones. Now cylinder walls are initially honed with diamond stones of about 400 grit to about 0.0003" from final size. Then 800 grit stones are installed and 5 or 6 strokes are made to knock the high spots off the cylinder walls. The rings and piston skirts ride on the flat surfaces left while the deeper scratches hold oil to lube the skirts and rings.
Honed is good for break in as it's rough and allows for a custom piston ring fit and better compression faster thus isolating wear to the rings, you also use break in oil to do this for a small amount of miles. After you switch to normal oil. Polished I can see less resistance overall and a break in oil could still be used and logically speaking it may take longer but once the rings break in and you switch oils it should allow for a smoother run engine with minimal drag, but the difference would be very minimal as either engine with wear a pattern into the cylinder walls but on honed the rings will be formed faster but have more overall wear... Engine wise break in is the most crucial time and reducing the time spent in it is ideal(just like warm ups daily). I've rebuilt my race engine a few times and I think break in oil is a scam, just like I feel 8f warm up times being shorter us the goal, a moderate throttle run warms up the engine faster than a low load warm up and thus you get into efficiency faster. Honed vs mirror, I'd say mirror would be best if you drive a longer break in period while honed you drive much less and change oil. Either should be the same once you change oil to a good synthetic with plenty of zddp.
Honing and new rings that can bed into the cylinder would be the better option in my guesswork, on top of properly seating valves as well, cos they can lose compression if they're not seating cleanly... :)
I would say somewhere in between. the striations will hold oil in them giving them more lubrication and a honed cylinder won't hold oil as much but the friction between parts will be less anyways so honestly I think it might just be dependent on the kinds of loads you'll have on the car. For a torque motor honed might be the way to go for when you have to load up the engine and for higher rpm speed and racing applications it might also help to just have less friction in general and at that rpm you're def getting oil so really just might be on a case by case basis. With no extreme benefit one way or another without extensive testing with at least 20,000mi on each test.
What a cool test! 😃👍 About the pistons and the Russian winter: piston 3 was the warmest and the cleanest. About the cylinder head: unfortunately there was a problem in the translation. Did cylinder 1 and 3 have the cleaner exhaust valves? Or 2 and 4? There are 2 cylinders with clearly visible cleaner exhaust valves. I don't know if they had the polished or the ground finish. 🤷♂️ A longterm-test would be interesting! How will the compression develop in each of the finish-types? 😉
Interesting video. Thank you. As I understand it, the valves with the honed cylinders were dirtier. Assuming I understand this correctly, the test suggests that the honing is working to do a better job of keeping the cylinder wall lubricated, but the tradeoff is that a little more oil is burned. Again assuming I understood the results, the honing vs. polishing question is about whether the slight increase in oil consumption in the honed cylinder is justified because the engine will run longer because of better lubrication.
@@Dronohthrow that Lucas crap in the bin and just use fully synthetic oil. Modern cars don't like that thick goopy crap in their veins especially with the vvt engines and small bearing tolerances that Lucas stabilizer is just too thick. Might help an old ( pre 2000s) engine but keep that crap out of a modern engine.
Less friction? Back in the day, some of my MX/Dirtbikes, 3 wheelers came with chrome cylinders (nikasil) when they went bad I would have an iron liner installed .... thx for your videos
I know when I used to race the flathead Briggs & Stratton engines in go-kart racing We done a mirror finish..They would use oil but it didn't matter because it got changed after hot laps and then after the main race.. those guys claimed the engines would spin up quicker and turn more RPM.. and to help the compression seal they would drill gas ports in the top of the piston.. seem to work well..
I always honed then cleaned with dawn dish soap with red scotch bright pad lightly just knock the edge off of the hone. I would bet the honed cylinders wore the rings more than the polished cylinders. All my engine rebuilds ran and lasted very long some of my tractor over hauls have over 25 years on them.
Honning is better only by the means that since in the tiny groves is always some residue of oil, it is much harder to seize the engine in extreme situations (like oil pump failure, overheating or so).
I love your videos 👌so entertaining, i have a a challenge for you, cause I curious if it will work, can you make 2 inline 6 into a v 12? I will love to see that😬😁
The hone marks or scratches hold small amounts of oil for lubrication and also help wear the new rings to exactly match the shape of the cylinder. A new engine would come with its cylinders finish honed, if that was a bad thing to do, the engine manufacturers would not do it. Keep in mind there are different grit honing stones, a less course stone is preferred for finish honing.
Do a compression check. That is the best way to see if polished or honing is better.The way you guys polished the cylinders doesn`t mean they are round though. You can machine to a mirror finish if you have the right toolbit and the proper speed of the cutter.Honed cylinders keep a thin film of oil on the walls and this might keep the engine to last longer.
The honed cylinders allow for oil to remain in the very small grooves protecting the tv walls and rings. That’s it’s primary function. The mirror cylinder would be theoretically capable of a better seal but the friction would increase wear and shorten the life of the parts.
It all depends for what you use the engine,for racing and high performance engines they use mirror finish,for every day and for long lasting they use honed cylinders
hone them, then mirror polish just the very surface, so that the crosshatch is still very much there, but the contact surface is smooth. also mirror polish the rings too lol
Honed cylinder keeps oil on the wall helping with compression and smooth running of the engine mercedes benz amg v8 bi-turbo has the problem with glazed cylinders/ a Mirror finish causing oil burning on throttle inputs if you hit the throttle and blue smoke comes out it's glazed/ a Mirror finish cylinders and the engine needs a full rebild at that point the cylinder will get scratched if the rings are frozen in place from lack of oil lubrication from no cross hatching and also bad maintenance but if the rings are free to move then it In theory it will work no matter if it's glazed or not you will just burn some oil so like about 1.4 qt or 1 lt in around 2000 mi vs .05 qt with out a Mirror finish.
Vacuum leak causes the shake in the engine, yes I do believe the compression test, less friction, less cutting by the rings on the polished cylinders, but they will allow oil to pass by the rings on the highly polished cylinders. Increased compression because of less ring groves cut into the rings and cylinders.
I suggest a Part 2, where you build 2 complete engines, identical except for the bore finish. Then put them on a DYNO to test power, compression, oil consumption, etc.
It wont work that easy... Tolerances matters. One will be done in minimum, second will be little bit looser but still in toleration and whole test would lie... :)
But it's an intresting concept. I guess mirror finish will be better if You have some really hard shell like nicasil in BMW, otherwise honing will be better, living longer with same preformance.
@@KenjiDev There is a reason why cylinders have been honed for the past 100 years. Mirror finish gives the oil a hard time to stick and lubricate the pistons.
@@Chris-yy7qc Correct. I just want Vlad and the boys to demonstrate that fact, with real numbers.
@@KenjiDev You could actually prepare bores with identical TOLERANCES, but different finishes. Different rings require different "RA" numbers. This determines the grit of the finishing stones. Achieving a "mirror" finish would entail using something much finer and smoother. But the final bore sizes could theoretically be made identical.
I want to see another tear down after 20 000 km. of daily driving. It appears 1000 km largely motorway driving wasn't enough to show the very small difference.
Back in the 80s, I rebuilt an engine in the parking lot. I hand honed my cylinders not knowing what I was doing. When I first started driving after the "rebuild", the engine was really down on power. It took about 1000 miles for the piston rings to seat and the further I drove, the power slowly increased.
Have the engine also consumed tons of oil at the beginning?
Rings and especially diy honing tools have come a long way. Now a days a flex hone can give you a killer finish if you go roughly the right speed up and down, and make sure you clean them real good. Rings now a days don’t have any problem sealing
The problem there was that the bores don’t wear round, they wear into a tapered egg shape. Rings can’t follow those cylinder walls. Out of curiosity, was it a Chevy 350? They used soft cast iron like the Ford Windsors did, but had a taller deck height and longer stroke in the 389 and 302, so they don’t wear as much as the Chevy. The 351W’s were not as plentiful so I don’t have much experience with them. Maybe one a year would come into the shop.
I ran 5hp. Briggs and Stratton engines on a race kart. I would rebuild several with hyperotective pistons with zero gap rings and use them at my home and shop for a year to break in the rings. then tear them down come spring and put the billet rod,loose fit by .005 over stock. long poly oil flipper, tuff ride crank.
It was amazing the difference then just honing, build, race…..
Did it go back to spec?
Well what i can remember from my engineering courses, honing provides tiny pockets for oil to sit, reducing wear and blow by.
The homing effectively creates Labyrinth seals allowing oil retention that creeps back onto the aspirites where the reduced area metal to metal contact occurs between rings and cylinder. The unanswered question is how many km before all the bores present the same compression and what would the comparative ovality of bore look like? Higher compression would reasonably wear faster but might suffer increased ovality over the lower loaded cylinders in my estimation. Carbon build up would also lead to higher compression and reduce the equilibrium wear indication needed so maybe then do a decoke and check again would satisfy the conjecture nicely.....
If the compression gets an little higher they'll have to start using racing fuel or add some type of additive to the regular gasoline .
They have discovered now days that cross hatching makes them seal better n the RA n RK n RPk of what rings you use also.
"Oil Retention Finish"
Some things don't change
EXACTLY 100%
What I loved most was the guy driving circles in the middle of the track
Same😂
Zing zing zing zing!
Honed of course. The term deglaze the cylinders isn't around because shiny is better.
When i was young i used to hear guys talk about ' chrome plated rings ' taking a long time to
' break in '. I thought that sounded like it had to wear through the
chrome plating and sounded dumb like it defeated the whole purpose of the chrome.
I then had a 350 chevy short block to rebuild and miked it all out. It had mirror finish cylinders with almost zero wear so i thought i would try something. I installed chrome plated rings without touching the cylinder finish.
When i had 7 pistons in i could still turn it over by hand on the crank weights. I didnt need a wrench until i had all 8 installed.
I put it all together and it ran clean and fine right from the start.
It ran well and at about 20,000 miles i drove it across country getting terrific gas mileage.
@@sp33drr it meant a lot to me. I used to watch friends rebuild short blocks and be lucky if it worked at all.
For mostly backyard engine building I went on my own knowledge of engines plus a few ideas of my own and I drove my engine across country towing things.
Sorry if I didn't have proper flow charts and proper records. I did mic everything and made sure all my rod caps were as
' round ' as possible. I was 21
Generally speaking for minimizing friction, thick oil likes rough surfaces. And thin oil likes smooth surfaces.
the thicker the oil, the more surface area it needs to adhere
So it depends on what oil ye using
Which is why engines need constant(ish) oil changes. Because the oil thickens over time.
(There's ten replies about viscosity, go read those before replying.)
no matter what you have, though, without the crosshatch, there's no way for the oil to get up to the rings. And it rotates the rings to keep the wear even.
@@jwalster9412depends on the oil.
I’ve seen thermal breakdown where the oil gets too thin to hold pressure in the pump.
I’ve also seen some cars turn it to sludge.
Toss up?
the honed cylinders had less deposits on the valve than the polished cylinders. i was aware that you want to hone cylinders before installing new rings for best results, but it's nice to see it confirmed.
It's the other way around actually.
Ofc I do trust honing is better for various reasons but 2 and 4 are polished and those are the clean ones
Honed cylenders are for holding oil in the scratches. Smooth cylenders are for o rings.
Model engines that are ABC don't have rings and are mirror finished piston and cylinders. Ringed engines are honed.
@@solarsynapse There is way more to that, than simple ringed or not.
ABC linears are chrome plated or made of chromium. Chrome is very hard and have low friction. They run on premix so lubricating oil comes from both sides.
They run on high revs so blowby isn't big problem.
Most important, they don't last very long.
The two angle cross hatch pattern has two purposes. The first is to provide lubrication to the rings. And the steeper angle causes the rings to rotate to keep the cylinder wearing evenly preventing premature wear.
Why do people offset the rings when installing just for first start on that engine? Asking because you mentioned the rings moving while running.
@@WhatsIncluded With an offset, gasses do not have a direct straight line to flow past the gaps, they do all spin a little, they don't spin the same amount, so after some time they would probably fix themselves at least a little, but it does help.
@@mikahandony7797 okay so it's not the end of the world if you don't because they will do it eventually.
If only we can test that theory I mean if I mark the position of the rings they better be in a different position then where I put em
The rings do not rotate when the engine is running.
My understanding is that the honing serves 2 major purposes:
1) it traps oil against the cylinder walls for lubrication. The oil also helps the rings seal.
2) it helps the rings wear in when the engine is new (or fresh rebuild) and helps them seal better.
A mirror finish would be better with a soft o-ring because the texture of the honing will shred the o-ring.
Remove cylinder glazing, to add crosshatch, so rings can seat to the walls. Proven time and again.
Lada has to love Garage 54, the way they show what Lada's cars are capable of.
Capable of being abundant and cheap.
@@NotAnonymousNo80014 We need cars like this in the US. Our auto industry has let us down in a major way by putting their efforts into making cars that are needlessly expensive, difficult to repair, and that have features that are unnecessary, such as complicated audio systems.
@@NotAnonymousNo80014 Lada engines are built on very old porsche tech and Russians are quite experienced with metal casting. Lada's problems stem from poor fit and finish which are quite easily corrected if one has any idea how cars work. The other downside is they are quite uncomfortable to drive since everything is made simple as possible, no sophisticated undercarriage. Plus side is Lada's are pretty much bulletproof, you will always get from A to B.
Your videos keep getting better and better. Thanks for your interesting ideas.
I never heard of a person wanting a mirror finish on cylinder walls. Usually when I see mirror finishe on cylinder wall the engines is worn out.
Oh yeah? What about Nikasil Chromium Bores? All of this work has been studied (in depth) by most Car & Motorcycle Manufacturers.
@@peterduxbury927 Still never heard of it
@@peterduxbury927 That's mostly a 2-stroke thing. I have never seen a 4-stroke with hard plating in the cylinder. (not saying they dont exist)
@@markchapman2585 Motorcycle engines. Ultra-high RPM.
@@peterduxbury927 nikasil bores are still honed for proper cross hatching.
As an engineer, trust me you need honing on the cylinder wall because of the lubrication, polished cylinders cause increased engine wear because the oil is not staying on the wall and lubricating it. That also worsens the thermals.
You talk about Teflon in a pan? Your ideal finish is probably sandpaper. Air presses past the rings through the drainage groves and pushed the oil onto the pan.
And what are you talking about, one time drag race ? Maybe for the extreme performance but if you want longetivity of the engine you need good lubrication and cooling effect.
I know an engineer, but a train related one.
Not on a 2 cycle though just add some motor oil to your gas
@@patrickday4206 I learned that the lowest piston ring is there to remove oil from the walls. I guess that you could have a 4-stroke with a single piston ring and no lubrication problems. It would just drink a little more oil. Race engines have less rings because they get fresh oil before every race anyway.
where did Vlad get that Ecto1 T-Shirt? its GREAT
Honed of course. The rings will seat and seal much better in a honed cylinder.
it seats less better but the oil remains on the walls so its always lubricated with a film of oil and makes the sealing better
This was actually a topic of heated debate but it was quite a while ago in internal combustion engine history.
the oil have to stay on the cilynder, so honed
@@retrocompaq5212 This.
Polished could be good for race engines that get rebuilt every race or run. But other than that honed is best for seat and break in.😎
The reason for the rough finish is to fit the rings to the cylinder. The rings will then polish the cylinders to a smooth finish.
I swear these guys can read minds... I was wondering exactly this yesterday while thinking about sleeveless alloy engines (like Briggs and Stratton Koolbore) requiring a mirror finish in order to not eat themselves to death. I think it's a 2 stroke trait though, whereas a 4 stroke requires the honing to hold oil on the walls.
A 2 stroke need an honed cylinder to hold oil just like a 4 stroke
@@pietrodiani6368 no they chrome plate most 2 cycle weedeaters smooth when the plating wears out it is toast
@@patrickday4206 that is not chrome plating. I think it's Nikasil on aluminum bloc. When the plating wears out, the block is not serviceable anymore.
That would make sense because you put oil in the mix for two stroke engines.
great videos. just founds your channel, watched a couple videos. I like your style. Thorough, but not repetitive. great balance. nice work.
Your guys do a fantastic job working on the engines you direct them to modify, I really like you and the channel, I wish there were as many old Ladas here in the USA, they seem to be really dependable reliable.
Honed and then smooth out the peaks always worked the best for me
Microscopic peaks?
Lol that's what break in is for
@@Skaadi89 Not if you're a professional lol. They use surface profilometers to measure the actual microscopic peaks and get the finish exactly how they want it. You don't want to have to break in a race engine cause now it's lost a bit more of it's already short life. You fire it up, check the tune, maybe check a two-step if you're drag racing, then you quickly shut it off. You want to run it as little as possible unless its actually racing.
works only on aluminium
@@FuckGoogle502I've never did a break in on any engine, new or my race engine, I guess just what u feel like, nothing better then brand new
I'M A MECHANIC HERE, and I know of a problem that Audi suffered by making the cylinders with a mirror finish, the lack of honed caused excessive oil burning in the engine of the Audi A4 sedan, a friend of mine who worked at Audi spent almost a year reworking these engines, dismantling and grunting and assembling these cars,
and the results match the video demonstration, so it's decided that honed is necessary
The crosshatch eventually wears to a smooth surface mating the rings to match the smooth surface, That is when it is broken in.
@@midgetrace My dad's car with 250k miles still has it's cylinders honed in a cross pattern. Definitely went not away within breakin period, as they shouldn't
My Chevy 350 had 266k miles on it and when I took it to the shop they swore that there was no way it had more than 150k miles on it. Seven of the eight cylinders had the factory crosshatch and perfect compression. Only one was smooth on one side, where the head cracked and dumped coolant in the cylinder, thus the rebuild. All I did was regular oil changes with a good quality filter and high rated cheep oil every 3k.
I really like the off the wall ideas being put to test from this group!!
Seem some stuff that you'd never think would work actually work!
I bet this group can actually fix anything that thrown at them.
I'm convinced these guys have got to be burnt out from working on Ladas
This was an interesting test. I suspect that the greatest advantages of crosshatch honing are:
1) Increased oil-film adhesion resulting in reduced cylinder corrosion during long periods of storage.
2) Increased oil-film adhesion resulting in reduced cylinder scuffing during startup, after long periods of storage.
3) Reduced piston-ring friction resulting in greater power and fuel efficiency. Reduced friction is partly due to oil adhesion, and partly due to reduced contact area and normal force.
4) Reduced piston-ring friction resulting in reduced coolant temperatures.
I guess it does matter on what type of rings you're using . But the 22 degrees (roughly) is important for proper oiling . But a standard nodular quick seater ring will have a hard time getting a seat on a polished wall texture, where as a chrome ring will be more at home with a polished surface . I figured 1 and three would have a better time with oil control . I built a lot of engines over the years though . Good work guys . :)
That white Lada wagon is my dream car.
You are lucky, your dream car is easily achievable. For me it was the opposite because they only built 400 of my dream car. and it cost me waay more than its worth to get it here I even had to ship it from another country/continent. If I can do it so can you.
You need better dreams.
@@davidgalea6113 what was you dream car
The look of those valves at the end of the video tell you everything you need to know.
Yeah I was gonna say, the only real results are in the heads
Enlighten us. What do we need to know?
@@rsemrad2 basically the smooth creates more carbon in the heads from the piston rings removing hundredths or thousandths of metal from the cylinder walls and themselves through contact. A smooth bore would allow equal distribution of pressure around the cylinders but momentum would mean the pistons have just enough wiggle room to touch the cylinder walls where as with a honed bore, you would have those pockets of unequal pressure filled with fluid and fluid is dynamic which means the pressure would force the oil into the low pressure pockets, thus creating a smaller area for pressure to build up and equalizing the pressure. In the smooth bore that pressure only sits in one area and is dispersed on the 3rd stroke instead of every stroke in the process. It means your rings will wear out faster and if there's blow by, then it's just as hard and as fast going the other direction as it is going in the intended direction
@@Unfoundrumorsas I understand it 2 and 4 are polished and those are the cleanest. 1 and 3 are honed and those are dirty
@@doopiej yes and as the brother explained, when your cylinders get hot enough, they’ll burn deposits away, which means those rings have a higher chance of failing in those cylinders
I knew the extention one because we did it at tech school. We put 16ft of extentions on a torque wrench and it was exactly where it should be.
On the other hand, I did not know about the anti-seize. That's really good to know.
This is what I am talking about. Best channel for anything you can think of.
Honed creates micro pockets of oil held in the cylinder wall which is important for rings to obtain the most effective seal
Love your videos, quite entertaining while challenging my intellect. Keep them coming. Blessings from America
I was watching the hydraulic press channel, where they were showing some huge bearings. It would be cool to see you guys fit those to a Lada to make some kind of wheel for it.
Back in the early 90s, I did a ring job on a 4 cylinder engine that had stuck rings on one cylinder and a cracked piston in another I honed the cylinders and after a week of regular driving, I took it for a 350 mile round trip that took about 6 hours. That engine never used any oil after that. It used half a quart during break in and that was all it ever used during the time we had that car.
I have a subconscious desire to buy Rolf products......
I had the same feeling.
Why?
@@paulhealey2984 not sure......
Depends on the ring package more than anything else. For best performance (and will use some oil): Typical cylinder bore finish readings of Pro Stock or Comp Eliminator, or NASCAR engines are as follows: Rpk 4 to 6; Rk 18 to 22; Rvk 18 to 32
The way ive been told about honong - you can only get so good of a machined finish. So adding in the cross hatching (in addition to letting it retain some oil during break in) allows the rings to essentially machine themselves to the cylinder - implying a mirror finish is what you're going for, but you'll never really achieve if you need specific tolerance
What you want to look at is the piston rings.
Some claim that the mirror finish will make the oil scraped of. But the honed finish will make it stick.
The honing holds a small amount of oil in the crosshatching.
Compression is maintained with this.
As in when loss of compression due to worn rings adding oil increases compression.
This is a great learning experience. I always understood the swirls were to help hold oil. I am very curious what you come up with
I think the differences have occured between the pistons because the honing and polishing was done by hand rather than on a machine. those slight variences are then multiplied by the thermo-cycling of the engine giving rise to those differences seen in the engine.
The polished cylinders will probably need around 10,000Km before rings seat properly.
Honed cylinders will bed in rings faster plus, the 'scratches' allow an oil film to lubricate rings.
There was a Fascinating video the other day on daves auto Centre RUclips channel where they had a guy on discussing this exact topic. He's a specialist in the field and scan the bore after honing to see how many troughs it has for oil!
Honing is about durability not compression. It's main purpose is to create a film of oil under the piston rings in the valleys trapped.oil in Shiny cylinders will get wiped right away by piston rings.
It really depends on the ring type as to what the best finish is for new ones on a good engine. Lake Speed Jr. of Total Seal has a few videos on this over on their YT channel.
I believe that the angles created by the honing helps turn the rings so they don't get stuck over time.
You should keep this one going as a long term test, im curiours to see how it fares over the long haul.
Dont support sexual changes, support ppl accepting how they were born. Thats what gender affirmation should be, not the inverted and harmful meaning deceptive ones use.
At least 10000km to get a conclusive result
Nobody asked you, and if they did they're likely also extremely ill.
..avatar pic..
Leave the kids alone!
@@carwashadamcooper1538uh oh grandpa found the computer again
@@carwashadamcooper1538 Nobody asked for that negativity either but here we are.
Can you make a rotary valve head the fits a standard lada engine block?
How about blow by? Maybe more on the smooth cylinders.
mirror means you need more pressure to the piston rings and chrome rings, thin oil with Additives, my favorite hBn
Then this engine will run great
I've twice deglazed/honed motorcycle engines by hand with sandpaper. 100 grit perhaps.
Quick to break in and never had any oil blowby. Just worked it at that same 40/45 deg angle. FWIW.
The fuel used is a big factor when it comes to the carbon buildup as well. The carburetor maybe running rich as well. Put 5km on the engine then recheck for the compression, oil consumption, and carbon buildup. Also check for even heating and cooling in the block. You may have cold spots or hot spots in the head and block
I'mma tell it straight... the thumbnail made me wince so hard it felt like tears might be next.
Aside from the Ford Pinto 2300, America never built a 4 banger as tough and reliable as a 50 year old Lada.
Yeah that 2.3 Ford is bulletproof. Chevy version not so much. Vega should have used the Ford 2.3 under license.
@@Dannysoutherner GM jumped the shark with that aluminum 140 cubic inch engine in the Vega. In 1976, they finally worked out the bugs and called it the Dura-Built 140 but, the car's reputation was toast at that point.
@@BlackPill-pu4vi I had a 77 Vega when I was a teen. It moved under its own power and price was right so it was a great car to me. Blew a head gasket, my fault. Fixed that and learned a lot along the way. My mom borrowed it one night and piled it up. Todays rolling iPhones I have no use for. Give me pre 90s any day.
@@BlackPill-pu4vi If they had put the Cosworth motor in ALL of them, they woulda had something.
@@JeffKopis Yes. The 2.0 Cosworth engine that did get put in the Vega has massive tuning potential. It was choked by the smog equipment of the time. Some car magazine (don't remember) desmogged a Cosworth Vega and that engine really woke up. New non-smog camshaft, fuel, timing, that engine's power really came out.
Carbon deposits don't necessarily come from burning oil. Gasoline is a hyroCARBON fuel. Incomplete combustion can leave carbon deposits. Too little air can make the engine smoke, right? Love the video!
Great video I just finish a hone b18b1 engine this its a awsome video
Wellll, hone finish depends on the ring material. In the 1960s chrome plated rings were common. These required a fairly coarse cylinder wall finish to enable the rings to wear into the cylinder walls. On initial startup the friction was high and it may take 30.000km for the engine to break in. Then we progressed to a molybdenum infill in the top ring face. This required a smoother cylinder finish applied using finer grit stones. Now cylinder walls are initially honed with diamond stones of about 400 grit to about 0.0003" from final size. Then 800 grit stones are installed and 5 or 6 strokes are made to knock the high spots off the cylinder walls. The rings and piston skirts ride on the flat surfaces left while the deeper scratches hold oil to lube the skirts and rings.
Honed is good for break in as it's rough and allows for a custom piston ring fit and better compression faster thus isolating wear to the rings, you also use break in oil to do this for a small amount of miles. After you switch to normal oil.
Polished I can see less resistance overall and a break in oil could still be used and logically speaking it may take longer but once the rings break in and you switch oils it should allow for a smoother run engine with minimal drag, but the difference would be very minimal as either engine with wear a pattern into the cylinder walls but on honed the rings will be formed faster but have more overall wear... Engine wise break in is the most crucial time and reducing the time spent in it is ideal(just like warm ups daily).
I've rebuilt my race engine a few times and I think break in oil is a scam, just like I feel 8f warm up times being shorter us the goal, a moderate throttle run warms up the engine faster than a low load warm up and thus you get into efficiency faster.
Honed vs mirror, I'd say mirror would be best if you drive a longer break in period while honed you drive much less and change oil.
Either should be the same once you change oil to a good synthetic with plenty of zddp.
You should do "squish grooves" on the flat part of the head where is combustion chamber
Now they do some acid erosion crosspattern stuff, but acid etched is also very good.
It looks nice
Honing and new rings that can bed into the cylinder would be the better option in my guesswork, on top of properly seating valves as well, cos they can lose compression if they're not seating cleanly... :)
I would say somewhere in between. the striations will hold oil in them giving them more lubrication and a honed cylinder won't hold oil as much but the friction between parts will be less anyways so honestly I think it might just be dependent on the kinds of loads you'll have on the car. For a torque motor honed might be the way to go for when you have to load up the engine and for higher rpm speed and racing applications it might also help to just have less friction in general and at that rpm you're def getting oil so really just might be on a case by case basis. With no extreme benefit one way or another without extensive testing with at least 20,000mi on each test.
I really enjoyed this episode , the little more real life and character development will make it even more enjoyble.
What a cool test! 😃👍
About the pistons and the Russian winter: piston 3 was the warmest and the cleanest.
About the cylinder head: unfortunately there was a problem in the translation. Did cylinder 1 and 3 have the cleaner exhaust valves? Or 2 and 4? There are 2 cylinders with clearly visible cleaner exhaust valves. I don't know if they had the polished or the ground finish. 🤷♂️
A longterm-test would be interesting! How will the compression develop in each of the finish-types? 😉
Interesting video. Thank you. As I understand it, the valves with the honed cylinders were dirtier. Assuming I understand this correctly, the test suggests that the honing is working to do a better job of keeping the cylinder wall lubricated, but the tradeoff is that a little more oil is burned.
Again assuming I understood the results, the honing vs. polishing question is about whether the slight increase in oil consumption in the honed cylinder is justified because the engine will run longer because of better lubrication.
ROLF engine oil is just Castrol GTX with a different name, Buy Rolf and keep your engine running good 👍🏻
Rotella t6 with 10% Lucas stabilizer
@@Dronohthrow that Lucas crap in the bin and just use fully synthetic oil. Modern cars don't like that thick goopy crap in their veins especially with the vvt engines and small bearing tolerances that Lucas stabilizer is just too thick. Might help an old ( pre 2000s) engine but keep that crap out of a modern engine.
Son of a shappard
Less friction? Back in the day, some of my MX/Dirtbikes, 3 wheelers came with chrome cylinders (nikasil) when they went bad I would have an iron liner installed .... thx for your videos
Ladas love them tough cars 👍Work on a lot of them in the day .
shame theres none left in the UK and RHD
@@petelattimer6808 The Fiat 125 or the polska were the same in fact the Lada was base on them in Spain it was the saet.
Good comparision...cool car too.
I know when I used to race the flathead Briggs & Stratton engines in go-kart racing We done a mirror finish..They would use oil but it didn't matter because it got changed after hot laps and then after the main race.. those guys claimed the engines would spin up quicker and turn more RPM.. and to help the compression seal they would drill gas ports in the top of the piston.. seem to work well..
Hi, can you please explain a bit more about drilling gas ports in the top of the pistons and how it helps compression seal?
I always honed then cleaned with dawn dish soap with red scotch bright pad lightly just knock the edge off of the hone. I would bet the honed cylinders wore the rings more than the polished cylinders. All my engine rebuilds ran and lasted very long some of my tractor over hauls have over 25 years on them.
Mirror finish for chrome rings. Everything else for cast iron.
Honing also added benefit to allow oil to dwell in aid of lubrication not just about sealing rings.
Honning is better only by the means that since in the tiny groves is always some residue of oil, it is much harder to seize the engine in extreme situations (like oil pump failure, overheating or so).
you could do a test with all cylinders coarse finish, measure blow by, 0-60 times or dyno then same thing after mirror finishing all of them
I'm amazed the paint markings are still on the valves after 500 Km.
Would like to see you guys make a boxer8 or v8 with 2 lada engines.. all the way from South Africa
Cylinders with higher compression will run leaner and hotter so hence the cleaner exhaust valve.
Did you notice that they measured compression pressure and it didn't match with the burn deposit on the exhaust valve?
Pretty sure I know the answer, but I’d love to see what happens either way. Keep up the good work boys!
I love your videos 👌so entertaining, i have a a challenge for you, cause I curious if it will work, can you make 2 inline 6 into a v 12? I will love to see that😬😁
The hone marks or scratches hold small amounts of oil for lubrication and also help wear the new rings to exactly match the shape of the cylinder. A new engine would come with its cylinders finish honed, if that was a bad thing to do, the engine manufacturers would not do it. Keep in mind there are different grit honing stones, a less course stone is preferred for finish honing.
Thank you!!!
Really good translation!
Do a compression check. That is the best way to see if polished or honing is better.The way you guys polished the cylinders doesn`t mean they are round though. You can machine to a mirror finish if you have the right toolbit and the proper speed of the cutter.Honed cylinders keep a thin film of oil on the walls and this might keep the engine to last longer.
The honed cylinders allow for oil to remain in the very small grooves protecting the tv walls and rings. That’s it’s primary function. The mirror cylinder would be theoretically capable of a better seal but the friction would increase wear and shorten the life of the parts.
Edit out the “tv”…. Don’t know how that got in there.
Great videos. Love you guys.
Vlad, -we brought the car to a racetrack! 🤣🤣🤣 Love and greeting from USA!
Love the ECTO-1 T-shirt. 👍🏼
I absolutely love the ecto 1 shirt
It all depends for what you use the engine,for racing and high performance engines they use mirror finish,for every day and for long lasting they use honed cylinders
hone them, then mirror polish just the very surface, so that the crosshatch is still very much there, but the contact surface is smooth. also mirror polish the rings too lol
So much to unravel here. There's a ton of different rings as well. Certain rings like certain finishes. Very good video though!
Never mirror. But roughness depends on ring material
Honed cylinder keeps oil on the wall helping with compression and smooth running of the engine mercedes benz amg v8 bi-turbo has the problem with glazed cylinders/ a Mirror finish causing oil burning on throttle inputs if you hit the throttle and blue smoke comes out it's glazed/ a Mirror finish cylinders and the engine needs a full rebild at that point the cylinder will get scratched if the rings are frozen in place from lack of oil lubrication from no cross hatching and also bad maintenance but if the rings are free to move then it In theory it will work no matter if it's glazed or not you will just burn some oil so like about 1.4 qt or 1 lt in around 2000 mi vs .05 qt with out a Mirror finish.
I honed my Honda 3.5 j series but only to get rid of some minor scratches/scarring,
Smoothbore for race engine.
Honed for normal cars.
And use correct oil too.
500km is like to my house:):)
Vacuum leak causes the shake in the engine, yes I do believe the compression test, less friction, less cutting by the rings on the polished cylinders, but they will allow oil to pass by the rings on the highly polished cylinders. Increased compression because of less ring groves cut into the rings and cylinders.
Love the speedo on that old car!