We make a fully custom ball bearing crankshaft
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2022
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In this episode we try creativity instead of destruction (but then nobody said you can't have both).
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The Germans used ball baring crankshafts in the V-12 Panzer and Tiger engines in WW2. The crankshafts where bolt together design. It took a incredible amount of design, machining and assembly to pull it off but they did. The tank engines ran on gasoline, 7 to 1 compression ratio and 16 litter displacement pumping out around 700hp.
I went and looked this up and that crankshaft from the Maybach HL230 is definitely a bolt up design! its nuts that the whole crank is circular in the entirety of its design
Used in vw also. Needle bearings
Interesting
I hadn't heard of VW crankshafts being built up, but a number of early Porsche cranks were. Especially in the higher-performance cars or race cars.
The typical way those were done was that each piece was bolted through the rod journal onto the next piece. You'd slide the one-piece connecting rod (no need to leave space for rod bolts!!) onto the journal, then bolt it onto the rest of the crank.
I was thinking the same thing with bolting it together .. . Doing like a gear design for the insert and cutout on the other to keep shape ... might have better luck with it holding together
Should have used split cage needle roller bearings. You could machine the crankshaft and conrod to suit and with a groove cut in the outer diameter you can still deliver oil to the wrist pin and cylinder walls.
As a mechanic I love your crazy Ideas ! Honda actually build 9000 RPM engines like this for their first cars . I don't know all the details, but you're experts!
All of this is wonderful, the interactions between gearheads and shade tree engineers. My opinion just to throw one out there is that a multiple crank is possible using a splined press fit. I think where they ran into trouble was in the balancing, vibration caused their welds to crack. Many large industrial machines use splined press fit parts without issue. As far as the bearings go, 2 piece caged needle bearings would work if the conrod and end caps were lipped to keep the needles in and both were harden.
I would have gone with either keyways/ an interference fit to lock the parts together, or using liquid nitrogen/helium to shrink and press the parts together with a really tight tolerance
Yes or spline
Fellow engineer here… It would be interesting one to solve thats for sure.
Keyways is a solid idea, maybe even brazed in place just to prevent any shock from the valve strikes.
Interference fitting is a cool solution too provided your materials can meet the condition range. Interference fittings of the same material can have questionable reliability when heated… This often works better with dissimilar metals, where the contracted piece has a lower expansion ratio than the receiving piece… In this way the fit remains super tight throughout the expected temperature range.
Note : Two different types of steel by example can have vastly different ratios.
Simple shank n slot would sufice
I was thinking same
Umm.... Press fit. What's so hard to figure out here? How bikes are...
16:51 So cool to watch people push this kind of backyard engineering this far, man this channel is great!
LOL Motorcycles have been using normal roller bearing and needle bearings for crankshaft in many many years, so this is not that unusual...
Those joints Should be Pressed together, and Not welded !!! ! !!! 🙂 🙂 🙂 Pwy 🙂
Motorcycles use a press-fit pin and then you can do the final alignment in a jig with a dial indicator. You might also use a pinned crank, where a hole is drilled and a pin or bolt is inserted to hold alignment rather than welding. On the rods, using a needle bearing would give you thinner bearings to work with, but you need a hard enough surface for them to roll on.
You fellows work well together in solving problems. Sticking with a problem until you solve it no matter how many failures is inspirational. Good work!
Many dirtbikes, ATVs, lawnmowers, etc use needle bearings for the crankshaft to rod rotary connection. Upon doing some research I found that the typical surface bearings used in vehicles need a consistently high oil pressure to prevent damage. This also means that engines that routinely get tipped over, shook, etc rarely use these bearings as the engine can be oriented such that the oil pump receives no oil (ie. dirtbike wrecked on it's side). The needle bearings can survive this as they operate off the oil mist in the crankcase and do not need a consistent oil pressure supply to prevent wear (the film stays on the bearing much longer). Vehicle engines do not ever undergo random losses of oil pressure so the need to have bearings that can survive without oil does not exist, thus they can use the far cheaper surface bearings.
Yes all multi-piece crankshafts use needle bearings on the big end of the rod. Surface bearings need a small layer of oil in between the two surfaces or they will quickly get damaged. That small film of oil is critical
When there is oil plain bearings can take more load
@@servicetrucker5564 Theoretically yes, however it mostly depends on the quality of metals used in the bearings.
Plane bearings also tend to last longer and can handle higher loads at a cost of increased friction.
In those conditions the design simply uses a dry sump design where the oil is scavenged away from the sump and pumped into a separate oil tank. A second pump then pumps the presurised oil from the tank to the crank shell bearings
Props to Sergei for thinking to put some 2 stroke oil in the fuel... That's kind of brilliant👍
Like a rotary!
Harley's have been using roller bottom ends forever, no need for 2 stroke oil in the fuel.
@@codyhatch4607 well, Harleys are designed for it. In this case they might have inadvertantly covered/blocked some oil passages. (PS I didn't know Harleys had roller bottom ends... That's cool)
@@colestowing8695 Not when rebuild time comes. Ya they have dry sumps as well.
In a 4stroke it will only lube the inlet, exhaust valves and piston crowns
First thing…. Awesome to see you guys! I think you did an awesome job fabricating a new off the bench (literally) crank shaft. I’ve always wanted to do the same thing. I figure machine the crank journals down the thickness of whatever needle bearings you find and then reassemble. That way the con rods and main caps don’t have to be thinner , or at least negligible machining on them. Thanks for sharing guys love your videos!
A very cool idea and it did work although temporarily. I have seen a roller bearing cam shaft something from the 60's I believe. It had a 2 peace bearing with some type of rollers inside and the halves were held together with a tiny spring like in a seal and allowed oil flow into the center of the bearing to lube the rollers. That's the only one I have ever seen and even a couple hot rod buddies never heard of such a thing. It was purchased in a whole bunch of old circle track car parts from the 50' to the 70's, sadly I don't know what it fits but I assume a Chevrolet. If anyone has ever heard of such a thing I would love to hear about it. But what I was getting at is, that would be the best way I can think of to make a ball bearing crank shaft and would it would definitely free up the crank shaft. Love your videos, you guys rock.
If they simply just fill the rod end and bearing caps with needle bearings to match the size of the original ones, they could have a “roller bearing” engine that revs like a motorbike, using an original crank and they would receive proper lubrication. Ball bearings will eventually seize without continuous lubrication.
Facts man I thought that while they making the crank. Not the needle bearing thing but there are no oil passages in that crank at all with no lubrication on the bearings it’s of course going to fail
Will not work the crank and rod are not hard enough for metal on metal
bearings race are way harder than the conrod
And you still need a cage for the roller bearings so you need a multi piece crank that is press fit and bike conrod are one piece normally
And motor like the gsxr1000 use normal half moon bearings just like the stock Lada engine use
@@legros731 they make split needle bearings. There’s two in my manual transmission.
@@suzysuzuki8865 Hear me out, now.
What if you took needle bearings...
and fused all the needles together to make one giant round piece
and made the outer race part of the conrods
and made the inner race part of the block and caps
and drilled holes to pump oil into it,
wouldn't that be cool?
1000% correct!!!
Don't forget to drill a hole in the bearing race and match it up with the oil feed in the main journals.
Have you ever “drilled” a hole in a bearing race?
Indeed, make sure to get it in the center of the race so oil gets fed directly to the anti-friction elements! That will ensure bearing longevity!
@@Highstranger951 yes, - center punch the area and start small with a good set of carbide drill bits. A drill press is highly recommended for depth. I also center the bearing cage so that I don't knick a B.B. I work for a transmission shop, and I also work with dirt bike engines, drilling a hole in the bearing can be very helpful in old 2 stroke motorcycle engine "if done properly and patiently".
Y’all are full of shit
Well, that’s the first time I’ve seen someone stick weld a crankshaft
I love you guys! There is no other channel that could be compared to yours. Not just mind blowing, and well implemented projects, but expert skills and scientific explanation behind it. Greetings from Hungary! ☺️
My 1981 H-D has needle bearings in the lower end and you can tell when they go bad also. I had 78,000 miles on it and it was shaking like Charo(Latin dancer) and knocking like a diesel.
Thanks for sharing the video post, best of luck 🍀to you, your crew and families ❤️
Cool story bro
5:97 "a bit of fine tuning with a hammer" I love Garage 54
I rebuild engine and multi piece crank shafts and a hammer is exactly whats required.
Usually a copper or bronze mallet.
IT IS WHAT YOU DO to true up cranks.
It works on single piece cranks too lol.
@@matthemberry2156 Yes that it does too, but I have only used a press and V-blocks for a single piece crank re work
I like how you guys tear apart the project afterwards to find the failures.
Absolute
And then explaining what's going on too
it's insane how talented these guys are
No!
It's a talent how insane they are!
@@Rob-fc9wg also true!
as you said ; both insane and talented ; in all the good ways ; now imagine how good the Buggatti engineers where and the fabricators 100years ago.
Yes Russians not to be under estimated. Also incredible electrical engineers also. Which took off doing similar tactics with electronics and motors "things that don't make sense/break laws of physics" and kept most of their discoveries secret.
Hondas in the 60’s when they first started making cars did this on everything, it needed no oil pressure
YOUR LADAS REMIND ME OF MY OLD 1965 FORD FALCON, 6 CYLINDER, IT MOVED BUT NOT MUCH ELSE. THANKS FOR THE NOSTALGIA GUYS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Drill almost right through each lobe of the crank shaft and insert roll pins all the way through, that should hold each section together. You could even tap the hole and cap it off with a set screw, use loctite thread locker for extra security and that way the pin has no chance of working it's way out.
Bolts.. roll pins twill shear..
Instead of a roll pin put a taper pin, then once it is held tight weld up nicely.
May be not make the holes perfect circles so the rotational stress is eliminated form the welds? I'm not a machinist so not sure how difficult would it be.
Also taper the to be weld surfaces so there is a cove to fill with weld? Again, not a welder but intuition says that would be a way stronger weld. May be they did it already
NO.. it needs square mating surfaces,& or woodroof keys..
These guys are really good fabricators. I absolutely love their experiments and the name of their channel. It's hard to give these guys good ideas. They've got the resources and know how to do almost anything. But it has to be cost sensible and produce a decent amount of content.
What you should do next is to make a crossplane i4 engine by cutting and welding the crank as well as the camshaft for the new timing of the engine. I would love to hear a car with such a unique engine.
there was a rally car that used a crossplane for their i4 because it yielded better results in the corners iirc
Dude a cross-plane I-4 woukd sounds so cool
There is a reason for plain bearings instead of ball/needle bearings. The contacting surface of a ball/needle bearing is a tiny spot. Meanwhile the contacting surface of a plain bearing is almost a 180° of the circle.
they should have used the "roller bearing"... (idk the name in english but you hopefully understand, instead of ball it's cylinders...)
Exactly what i thought as soon as he said ball bearing.
Though some 2-strokes have ball bearings. Must be something different there. I dunno. I'm just a body man.
@@UberLummox I guess it's because two strokes don't have pressurized oil circulating. Easier for the oil to move through a ball bearing I think
@@norrlandstruggles9798 Ok thanks!
2 strokes have been using roller bearings in the crank, rods and piston wrist pin forever. Of course it’s because they are oiled through the fuel so no oil pump or oil bath for the bearings.
2 strokes have twice the number of combustion cycles - but they're half as big. Bugatti, Ferrari, Lambo, Mercedes, Lotus, BRM, Honda (and more) have all tried roller bearing bottom ends and NEVER get it to work right in a 4 stroke.
@@GroovesAndLands Many motorbikes have roller bearing cranks. Not just 2 strokes, but for instance the original suzuki GS range of four strokes. Made them bullet proof
@@GroovesAndLands But many high performance motorcycle manufacturers have made it work very reliably.
@@gs425 I've been saying exactly the same thing as you have.
NTN has developed split roller bearings for automotive applications, including camshafts. These look like a great idea for reducing friction. Ball bearings are not good for lateral thrust applications whereas rollers are.
Great job getting this done! The belated oil circuit confusion was entertaining. Might have to introduce some oil jets to splash the bottom of the pistons? Perhaps cross-pins through the intersections of the crank might have helped? Maybach and others successfully built tunnel crankshaft engines but these require bearing internal diameters larger than the crank throw. Doubt there is enough room to modify the crankcase for that in a Lada.
Ever since owning a couple of Niva 4x4, I have always admired the simplicity and ruggedness of Russian vehicles. The Niva would often go places that vehicles costing 10x more could not. But they would have benefited from a 2 litre engine and maybe 300mm increase in overall length for road use. You could buy them new with a 2L Toyota diesel in New Zealand when Lada cars were taken in exchange for dairy products in the 1980s. A local company converted new Niva’s and they really were much improved by this engine.
Love this channel - subscribed! 👍🏻
I've always wanted to see this done in a 4 cycle motor... you guys really are the best.
Vlad has a great mechanical mind. Always enjoyable. Greetings from USA.
One day will you put a supercharger where the water pump goes and see if you can air cool a liquid cooled engine finally since we've asked a thousand times now???
It will work...
Until it doesn't.
Hi. Honestly, this is the first time I've ever seen anybody making this sort of suggestion.
Well I think more than a supercharger is needed. Maybe a couple air conditioning units could however
When you compress stuff, it gets hot. How much airflow would you need through those small spaces just to remove additional heat? I don't think that's possible for much longer than running it dry.
That's a really stupid idea, and why they never did it.
i love the madness, the planning and engineering and the work. very good fun. loving the content.
You are not mechanics. You are engineers and artists. Master craftsmen
Ball/roller bearing crank has crossed my mind many times thank you for satisfying my curiosity
I really want to know what Russian phrase translates to "guinea-piggery".
Which minute?😂
They release the videos in russian..
Животное для опытов.
Pretty sure their translator just makes sht up as he goes 😂
The built-up ball or needle bearing motorcycle cranks I've seen have been pressed together.
Hey well done on listening to your subscribers with getting merch 👌
We all love your whacky crazy car channel. I never miss an episode. Thanks for your contribution of awesome content for us all to watch for free 👍
I think if the pins for the bearings were splined to mate with the crank throws and press fit then welded if may be more durable but I think you guys did a fantastic job for your first attempt.
I'm so impressed that you do such advanced research with simple manual lathes and mills. It shows true genius that you solve complex problems with basic shop equipment.
Your statement made me laugh so hard........🤣
My 2 stroke boat engines use a roller Bearing on the cranks and mains. Slick set ups.
Great content! Needle bearing would have been a better option but it would loose a lot of oil pressure but overall it would be easier to assemble, there would be no needed to cut the crankshaft, but the bearings would have to be made from scratch for them to be split in 2 to replace the original bearings, this is a very good idea!
13:31
God damn, this man knows what he is doing. In this stupid idea, the amount of knowledge, theory and physics used shows how great mechanic he is right now, we will see where he will be in 10 years!
yup lol, figured since they were going to delete most of the crank oil splashing system he'd give it a chance with premix.
Agreed!
Yhea I was actually surprised he did that.
Sergei, always thinking 10 steps ahead.
Awesome job! If you try again, I would bore and counter sink some holes through the webbing and pins, then either pin them in place, or bolt. Or pin and weld. That way you have extra strength!
Man that 2 stroke oil trick reveal. I love that he solved for the issue he was fishing for already. Awesome work.
Finally With ur video my lunch is going to be perfect 👍🏼
And my dinner
Lawn boy mowers were very well known to have a needle bearings in the crankshaft end it was very rare for them to ever have problems and would last as many times as you could get away with rebuilding the engine
That's true, but it was also a 2 stroke with oil and gas being drawn through the crank area.
Needle bearings were also common in two stroke small ends
@@kleetus92 Ive got alot of 4 strokes that have ball bearing cranks with needle bearing rods. Idk why people keep talking like its a 2 stroke only thing.
@@jonpippen6998 I've seen a few hondas with ball bearing mains, but never saw anything with needle bearing rods in 4 stroke. What engine/application?
@@kleetus92 Look into gy6 150s Or CN250s or Linhai/vog 250/260/300s Just to name a few. Many many 4 stroke atv/bike motors are the same also. One piece cranks/rods (pressed together) with ball bearing mains and needle bearing big ends. No bearings on the small ends tho.
It is always entertaining and educational when watching Garage 54 videos. Thank you! Greetings from Ohio, USA.
It is really special to observe g54 undertaking versions of viewers comments.
Crankshaft rolling between triangulated ball bearings would be interesting to see if it helps diminish the flexing and imbalances
I have thought of this for some years now. The solution i came up with for connecting the journals to the crank arms was a light press fit with machined splines, keyway, or some sort of interference rotational wise fit. A flat spot in the circle of both meshing parts. Then secure it together with a decent sized bolt and a beefy washer. I’ve dreamed of designing and building a stackable single cylinder heavy duty industrial engine like this. Design each cylinder so it could be mated to other cylinders either on end or in a v configuration.
That's a very interesting idea 😃!
square mating surfaces, not round,,& woodroof keys.. or splined..this is why manufacturers dont do it..too much head fk & unreliable at 7000 revs..
Splined crankshaft with needle bearings was standard on Hirth aircraft engines in the -30s
Splined crankshaft with needle bearings was standard on Hirth aircraft engines in the -30s
On top of welding, maybe drilling and pinning each joint would strengthen it up.
Just wrote similar myself 😅😅😅
Omg 😆
This guy is great !
He actually is very knowledgeable and is doing a lot of RD which is something early engineers should have been faced with
Lots of motorcycles have roller bearing crankshafts on the conrod big ends, sometimes even on the little ends at the piston pin.
My old 1976 yamaha 650 had full roller bearings on both big and little ends, such a well designed engine. 👍
my 50-cc scooter has needle bearings on the crank and wrist pin.
the average rpm is around 6 to 10 grand. granted it is a single cylinder 4 stroke, but maybe using bearings on a small 4 banger might be viable.
bearings on the crank mains are quite common in motorcycles
Ball bearings won't last on crank, needle bearings will (lots more surface area). Balls will quickly get flat spots.
@@Rudy97 Roller bearings will last though, like used on a lot of motorbike engines.
I wonder how much Performanceyou can get from a Lada engine just from adding EFI, ECUs, the ball bearings shown here, or even a turbo., but without swapping rods, pistons, or cranks.
Every 2 stroke motorcycle has ball bearings for the crank and roller and needle bearings for the Rod, nothing strange, they work, rev very High and last long, Classic vespa engines last 100k km sometimes before rebuilt, and very powerful 125-250 bikes can last 50k with no problem, modern scooters are less reliable because cheap construction and the strain of the offcenter belt and CVT eats the crank bearings but they also can last
Ive thought about this forever its amazing to see it done.
The ingenuity and the fact that you were actually successful only limited was a great step forward. Perhaps one day someone will be able to perfect it and it will be revolutionary for future engines. Great Job!
Needed to be splined together. Some snow mobiles have roller bearing cranks and they use keyways and slines to mechanically connnect the peices.
Can you try to make a cross-plane crank? Like the YZF R1?
Love garage 54 these guys are epic
What a blast , funny as guys 👍obviously there are better solutions but to have a go with limited machinery! I think you did rather well . In an ideal world maybe spline and shrink fit the crank and have a one piece rod with needle roller bearings , this would then need hardened journals etc . There will always be an issue with crank flex and balance really . The other ideal solution would be to have roller bearings with split hardened shells with the joint at an angle so the rollers don’t hit a joint square . Nothings easy unless you have access to quality machinery. Love stuff like this , can’t wait till you decide to build an aircraft 😇🇬🇧👍👍👍
I've been thinking about how to create the crank shaft a little differently. Use a solid milled bar for the center and make keyway notches in it. The material for the counterweights, cut the ends in the appropriate place, drill and tap for bolts like the connecting rod caps. For the bearings, prepare the inside dimensions to fit the solid center rod, and press fit them into place. Balance the entire crank shaft. My idea means there will be weak points to break on the shaft like there were by welding individual sections with the bearings.
This has been done before by automotive companies. Even with today modern engines there's about 6% of fuel saving with roller bearings.
The problem is the assembly is rather expensive and noise and vibration harshness is a big issue with them
What Ford will do on their 1.0Ecoboost mild hybrid is to install a roller bearing on the first crankshaft bearing pulley side. So to cover for the bigger loads due to the high torque there because of the belt starter generator. Gives about 2% fuel saving too overall. But they have to go long ways to reduce NVH
I think that is a good idea for Ford, but as these engines become more expensive, who can afford them. They are not high-priced Mercedes models! Maybe they could make this special crankshaft and the motor block so tough, that it lasts for 2 or 3 cars. Then sell the first car and lease its motor, so they can get the used motor block back later on and put it into the next model ! Silly idea maybe?
I am having a Ford Tourneo 1.0 Eco boost, 95000km, frequent oil-changes ( twice per year) the engine is a little bit louder, than when new.
@@konradcomrade4845 no in 1972 VW thought about something different. The long term car. So after 10 or 15 years the dealer could swap you in a more modern drivetrain or update other stuff instead of buying a whole new car to protect the environment with less material and energy usage. Guess where that idea landed in the end
Wonder if you could spline the ends of the crankshaft sections and eliminate the need for welding. Might even be able to replace only the broke parts when it blew that way.🤔
Was thinking that myself.
I was thinking of splines with a retainer ring kind of thing
There is actually no need to go to the extra complication of macining splined components just a simple pressed together interference fit is all that is required to do the job reliably. That is how most of the commercially made built up crankshafts are assembled.
Back in the 1960s, several Top Fuel dragster teams experimented with roller bearings for their crankshafts. The results were that there was no performance increase over conventional mains. Upon thoughts about the result, it was concluded that the cranks floated on a thin film of oil as it was, thus eliminating drag, and so did the cranks when supported by roller bearings. At most, it was a wash, with the cost of converting to roller bearing mains not offsetting any minimal performance increase.
Is Sergei the son of Vlad? If so, it’s really neat to see them be able to work together. Even if not, they’ve got a great rapport and are a fun team to watch!
until sergei is drafted for putins crazy war
Let’s all drop a like for Garage 54’s top notch content.
Good to see you are still doing crazy projects in these crazy times… cheers from a friend in Denmark .
I think splined pins might have lasted a little longer then weld them where you can reach or use set screws so the bearings could be servicable. Great content, guys! I really enjoy your videos! You guys do the things I just get to think about.
many years ago a company called SPG made roller bearing crankshafts for VW and Porche... you need a modified oiling system as the roller bearing require a lot more volume
The Saab 96 had ball bearing crankshaft, some old Morris's did too.
@@Tore_Lund did not know that.... I just know that they (roller bearing crankshafts) are very expensive and engine blocks/cases have to be specially modified to use one if its not made that way from the factory
@@williamaittala7700 They also had to be overhauled every 50.000km, if I remember correctly, but that as 1950' tech basically, materials today might be better, The Saab was two stroke, so it was obvious to use roller bearings like in a moped engine when there was oil in the gasoline already.
Spray oiling. Grind notches in the bearing shell that would spray. Also would run a 30mm pump
I would love to see you build a rotary motor .
Rotary Lada engine?:)
That was a GREAT Effort . Yes , Torrington Roller conversion would be the way with a Cast Crank .
Alternatively , for a Built-Up , Multi piece Crank , it needs Machining to 120 Ton Press assembly tolerances . Needs doing in an Alignment Jig .
And the Other Version involves Fine Sliding fit , Keyed for Alignment and using High Tensile Bolt and Nut assembly through the Journals .
Ultra High precision Machining .
Inspiration would be found from '77 to '83 Japanese motorcycles with built up ball bearing cranks (heavy assembly fit of crank), ect. that stay together and straightened stock engines (with built up cranks) can handle many horsepower.
HEAVY ASSEMBLY FIT, straightened and welded can handle greater than 1000hp.
GS 1000 Suzuki and Z 1000 Kawasaki being just 2 examples where this works very reliably.
The concern I have is it appears that sealed bearings are being used. Would not bode well for lubrication
They will get lubricated, no issue there.
@@SeanBZA You don't think? Have you heard about the Porsche IMS bearing problem?? Don't used sealed bearings on engine internals.
i thought the engine sounded like it needs a higher rpm idle because the crank's rotating mass is a lot less, would need a heavier than stock flywheel to compensate
A lot of motorcycle crankshafts are press-fit with some being doweled and/or having keyways and use roller bearings on the ends and/or the middle as well. Cool approach to it though!
They used to use a multi pieced crankshaft in top fuel dragsters . They used splines to aline the pieces then a couple of tack welds to keep them from sliding out .
This was what I was thinking seeing them put this together, it would make it a bit stronger using splines, instead of only just welding it together.
The webs and pins should have been a press/interference fit, no need to weld. common practice on old multi-cylinder motorcycle engines revving to 10,000 rpm. Suzuki gs1000 to name one.
See also Kawasaki cranks, Allen Millyard must have a hundred videos showing his custom ones. Brilliant idea, and like you say, they can rev some. But are they ever a chore to fix!
@@creepingjesus5106 Pin-together cranks work fine on 2 strokes, where the combustion pulses are half as strong but come twice as often. 4 strokes? Not so much.
@@GroovesAndLands Wrong! There are loads of reliable high output 4 stroke motorcycle engines that run ball and roller bearing cranks without reliability issues.
I would have press-fit and pinned the crank together.
Bearings will soon overheat with no oil flow through them.
Take heart, your crankshaft was still stronger than a new Landrover crank.. similar lifespan too.
Rather than welding, just make the journals and crankpins a press fit. That makes it much easier to assemble and correct any misalignment.
You could also drill spit holes to cover the oiling problem.
V6 Range Rovers are notorious for breaking the crank.
@@howardosborne8647 Oops, I meant Range rover...
I would call that a success! It ran, drove. Ok it didn’t last too long because of the weld issue but with some refinement it may last much longer. Great work! I think a version 2.0 with needle roller bearings. Maybe the different sections of crank can be machined to thread together before welding for extra contact.
Cross plane 4 cylinder Crank should be next! Also, Pressed Interference fit the Crank and rod journals into the webbing / counter weights and then cross pin them. No chance of them moving..no warpage from welding either. Lots of 2 stroke multi cylinder motor bikes use press fit cranks with ball bearing journals..
Garage 54 has done so many wild and crazy things. I love to watch your videos.
I built a roller crank 400 Chevy back in 1980. Biggest problem was floating valves and rods that didn't want to "cooperate". But it was fun while it run.
Rod and main bearings drilled for pressurized oil ports and zero tolerance press fit splines instead of welded pins Should be youur next upgrade/build.. Your idea was AWESOME!!! Great video!
This is cool, I love to watch hou guys do all this. My concern with bearings on the crankshaft would be pitting from the constant pounding. Especially if pre-ignition occurs.
ball bearings are good and last forever on even rotational forces without major vibrations or temperature variations*. Crankshaft on the other hand have pretty hard rotational forces that depending the work* of the engine, shift dramatically. That's why they use oil pressure. Zero metal to metal contacts, minimum friction, runs cooler and the oil works as a dumping material to absorb any vibrations coming from the rods
Motorcycle cranks that use roller (not ball) bearings were built up either by straight forward press fitting of journals and webs, or in the case mainly of singles, the big end journal can have a tapered seat which can be drawn into the web with a threaded section and nut. Needle rollers I suspect will self destruct on the big ends and mains.
I haven't heard of any production cars with ball bearing crankshafts, but roller bearing cranks were definitely a think in the 50s and 60s. They are better than oil-fed plain bearings for high revs but loading them up at low revs will trash the bearings quickly. Roller bearings are much stronger and more durable for radial loads (which a crankshaft journal sees) but have very little side load capacity (which would be front-back loading in a crankshaft, and is unnecessary because thrust bearings take those loads). Another big difference is that roller bearing cranks always use open bearings, not grease-lubricated sealed bearings. The rollers and races need to be splashed with fresh oil. Grease and rubber seals will harden and break down over time. Oil will seep in and wash the grease away, but won't flow enough to properly lube the bearings. Also, debris in the oil will get trapped.
I've done this before, you need to make each part of the crankshaft mate using a square or keyed end that inserts into an equivalent recess on the other, this way, they "lock" into place, then you put a bolt through to tighten them. :)
This has been done decades ago. An entry into the INDY races, it proved to be less reliable than plain bearings. Rollers just don't tolerate oil contamination or debris. But their solution was a split type bearing, like a clam shell bearing so the crank is forged and not welded. It's very entertaining and interesting to see it done in this video.
Also balancing would remove the excess stress. I’m sure that had a lot to do with the failure. Hope you decide to keep working on it. I want to see it rev up and run!
Multiple pieces crankshafts are used in two stroke engines.
And they are not welded but are strongly press fit.
And they seem to be holding pretty well.
My 901cc snowmobile engine is all roller and needle bearings and 190 hp. and it starts every time lol.
@@heshtesh yeah, unfortunately that's not made for longevity
Really enjoy watching the shenanigans. Keep it up.
In the 1960's there was a car called the Inch Pincher that had roller bearings on the crankshaft ( main bearings and connector rod bearings ) it showed up at the drag strip every Sunday . It was a V.W. bug , went like stink ( for a V.W. ) PS you can buy split roller bearing so you don't have to take the crankshaft apart , we used them on the trim saws in the sawmill . Shaft was over forty feet long so stripping it down to replace a center bearing would have take all day . Bearing could be replaced during a coffee break or between shifts with the split roller bearing. They seemed to last a long , long time ( 1800 rpm , 16 hours a day ) The mill was a forty foot mill cutting hemlock
All this man needs is a budget and we can revolutionise everything, cars, cheese gratets whatever.
These guys can do it.
I looked into similar design. The crank journals on my design had splines like a drive shaft so instead of welding the journals they are thermally pressed in (journals are frozen in a freezer and the other material is heated. Then you slip the two in and they are joined just factor in the thermal expansion of the metal) there is a hack i do for balancing cranks but ita hard to explain in text. Ita just putting the crank on rollers and the heaver parts fall down. Kinda like balancing a bicycle wheel but more presice.
That should solve the issues. I honestly thought the bearings would fail before the crank. Now i know. Great job guys i love it
Love this guy also you are awesome one of the best channel ever been watching for over 2 years now and the way you love to customize and tinker with cars is awesome
Great videos
Always
Great mechanic /teacher
Good students
Nice to see t work
Fun fact my friend Steve who is between the age of 70 to 90 has made a ball bearing engine that want to go kart race back in like the 50s or 60s and the guy has multiple patents on electric heart pumps and things of that touch but to see you guys do this is awesome much appreciated put my friend Steve in mind
with ball bearing crank you can rev sooooo high if done right. you could make the shaft it self disassemble like a 4 rotor does with pins and counter threading and also woodruf keys!
I am genuinely amazed at your ability to weld a crankshaft back together and keep it balanced. What is your secret? I MUST KNOW.