Had a customer take his Lexus to the dealer and they did a engine flush and on his way home spun a bearing on the way home.when you flush a engine all that junk goes through the oil pump and the bearings.not a good idea.
@frankwaddle3991 I'm gonna respond to this because I don't think you or others understand how the lubrication system operates. If there's preexisting damage, it's irreparable. Sludge is superficial, and there are safety mechanisms in place. Such as a strainer, pump to pulverize and filter to filtrate. The oil filter does a great job doing it's job. These cases you guys bring up are case by case situations and are circumstantial on individual bases and should be treated as such, but yall stories are interesting either for or against this procedure. I provide evidence in my case with the lack thereof on your and others behalf. I can back up my claim while yall can't. I'm simply not gonna allow you to instill fear with this process due to it meeting the necessary criteria for this. To add, I don't put the dealer on a pedestal because they're human that make mistakes just like me, thing is they have more heads than my 1. Stick around for the update, despite my proof not being persuasive, this case doesn't live up to your claim and others of failing. When done properly you can achieve best case on a bad situation. This is a TREATMENT not a SOLUTION
Amazing how many "experts" are here commenting. They didn't even listen to what you said. You did the best you could under the circumstances (lame owner). Well done, sir!
@@partsshootercustomers always want to cheap out, I’m pushing 60 and had to quit doing vehicles. People love their motorcycles a lot more lol so I stick to them now. Great job brother PS 1/2 the idiots giving advice on here have never held a wrench and that’s obvious. 🐾✌️🇺🇸
@@Christopherbever I once flushed a Toyota Echo engine using 50/50 oil/kerosene, idled it for 2 hours and drove it around a bit at low speeds/rpms, It cleared up piston ring/oil return holes and reduced the oil consumption by at least half.
This is why i change my oil and filter every 5-6k, my 2001 car has been in the family since a year old and the results from a recent leak down test were very good, long may it continue!
do oil analysis next time use a good synthetic and i think you’ll be surprised that your oil would last longer. IF the motor is in good shape. i have a number of cars they all get 1 yr change..never had an issue. i keep my cars a long time. i use a bypass filter on my f250 7.3 that’s what over the road truckers use.
@fyrcapnstuff7545 I second this. If the car is well taken care of, 7500-mile intervals are fine. 10,000 miles is the absolute limit. Past that you're actively damaging the engine.
@@joeblow8206 I've seen oil lab analysis on several vehicles, and it doesn't make much difference until 7500. At that point, the oil filter needs to be changed anyways. Modern oil outlasts the filters nowadays. I'm sure you've taken great care of your Toyota, but I doubt that changing fluids is the only contributing factor.
Owner of a 1.8T VW here(621,000 miles, original engine and turbo even) I wont even chance 5 or 6k. 3k max, even with full synth 5w40. Doesn't matter if you use FS or a blend, they'll both be equally as filthy at 3k. Try it, drain it at 3, guarantee you your oil is disgusting.
ATF a couple quarts added to clean oil . let engine idle up to temp . Run 20 minutes at temp drain . ATF is so highly detergent will wash internal parts . A company used Jetta instead of diesel . The engine I had to heat pan up so oil would drain . Solid oil . ATF is so highly detergent can wash hands in it . Use some Rotella T engine oil . U will be suprized how clean internal parts will get . Only a suggestion that filter will be full or crap in a couple hundred miles change filter add. Quart n do again . The oil is for hard working engines different weights non synthetic in rotella T4 and what ever weight u want . Been doing this since 1960, then was non detergent oil . So sludge was a constant problem . Too old to do the work any longer . Just passin on what worked real well . Have a good one !
@@john2ndnameHe started by clean oil and bring it up to temps, so I take it drain the old oil, replace one of the new oil quarts for transmission fluid. So if your engine takes 5qts of oil, during cleaning use 4 and 1 of Automatic transmission fluid. I have done this same steps on VW, Honda, Toyota engines, does work. Just don't leave the trans fluid in, warm up, drive a little and bring it back to drain it out, for new only fresh oil.
@@john2ndnamedepends on oil capacity probably don't want to use more than 25 to40 percent tran fluid to capacity only run at ideal fore ten to 15 minutes at operating temperature (turn heater off completely so engine gets hotter and stays hotter) with fresh oil and tran fluid with new filter and drain rather quickly before oil cools off u might consider changing oil after replacing oil and filter after say 100 to 500 miles of driving. make sure it is wise to flush engine; some manufacturers say don't! do it. ps there are professional flushing machines that auto technician use in a shop u might want to go that route instead especially if it's bad and u value ur cars engine
You can use diesel and transmission fluid as cleaber but you’ll have to mix it with heavier engine oil like 10w40 or 15w40 so you’re not running too thin of an mixture that will wipe out bearings
That diesel and tranny fluid was probably lubricating better than what was in there before. Should use some Seafoam in that engine for a few oil changes. That stuff works wonders.
I wouldn't even touch that thing. I'd send it on and tell the customer, I'm sorry, but its too much of a liability. If I was to work on it, I would need them to sign several waivers.
I work at a dealership and one of the ladies in the office owns a 2017 Infiniti QX60, same engine as this one. She didn't change the oil for 30k miles. The sludge i encountered was just as bad as what you saw on this video. Surprised it still ran decent. I just did the oil change, then 2 drain and fills. Then another oil change 1 week later. It definitely cleaned up the inside of the engine. She swore up and down that she's changed her oil on it many times since i worked there. I've been working there for 3 years and not once seen her bring her car in. And proved that she hasn't changed it cuz her oil sticker said it was due at 36k miles and her car had 58k miles.
@RicardoPCGamer thanks for that story. I would've love to have seen the difference yours made. Good thing in our situation the sludge isn't baked on as some can look like coal chunks.
Let the car run for 30 minutes just on diesel and one quarter of transmission oil is very wrong and can damage the main and rod bearings you should have to do 50% diesel and clean oil and let it ideal for no more then 10 minutes and then do the oil change at 1000 miles or less and flush again and do oil change at 1000 miles again and repeat this process until engine get clean. On you comment you said at 3000 miles car had oil light flashing that is because slug debris stuck in oil pump and lubrication Channels and blocking the oil transferring holes so that's why you have to do oil change at 500 and max 1000 miles to get rid of the debris .
If he came to my shop and told me I did the last oil change when clearly I did not, his car would be another shop's problem. I'll never lie to my customers and I expect the same back.
@howardwoodruff4087 I totally understand you. I'm my case though, the tone wasn't aggressive more of doubt sounding, "I think you did the oil change last". I did change their otger vehicles oil but made it clear it wasn't this one. 😎 I been servicing their cars for years, he's cool
Please please look after your hands/skin, use gloves / barrier cream / wash & moisturize. I've been involved in engineering and mechanics since the 70's, regret not having done these things myself, initially, but started in the 90's. That saved me a lot of damage later on. Guys who I know never did this and have wrecked their hands/arms from old oil, grease and coolants. Then vigorous scrubbing afterwards to clean up only exacerbated the issue. Remember the song 'SunScreen'. That says it all. Do it and thank me in 20 years! Good content, nice to see someone prepared to be a little 'old school' about cleaning up the inside of the engine before just changing the oil & filter.
Great advice, my Father didn't use gloves ever and died prematurely of brain cancer. Solvents enter your body through the skin and cause all kinds of serious issues.
I agree that this does work... I have done it and this was shown to me by my dad.... as you said every case is different. I did have one engine fail afterwards.... Ithe first sludge removal loosened and removed a lot of the sludge but not long after sludge clogged up the screen on the pickup tube and the engine spun a rod bearing. Now I wouldn't do this just once.... I would repeat the sludge removal until the drained fluid is much clearer then clean cheap oil for a couple hours than another oil change. I would strongly recommend that people watching this video have this process done by a reputable mechanic. My dad also warned me not to rev the engine while the cleaning solution is in the engine... he said THAT results in spun or damaged bearings. Maybe less likely with modern engines designed for low viscosity oils... We were doing this on engines made prior to 1980. The engine you are working on here... I would bet that cheap oil was used by whoever changed it.... no detergent action. I only use high quality synthetic oil now.
Back in the 70's, we did diesel flushes and the end result almost always was a blown motor. Seems the loosened sludge would plug up the intake or the pump after a few hundred miles. Had much better luck with high detergent diesel oil and very frequent oil changes. Even then engine failure happened. The key is to not let them get that bad.
YOU REALLY CAN CLEAN SLUDGE WITH DIESEL. WHILE I WAS DOING THE HEAD GASKET ON MY 92 COROLLA, I POURED DIESEL INTO THE CYLINDERS AND MOVED THE CYLINDERS UP AND DOWN. REPEATED OVER A WEEK. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND NOTICED VERY MINIMAL OIL BURNING AND MORE COMPRESSION NOW.
What I used to do was a 5-minute flush with 1 quart of engine flush. From what I understand, back in the old days, they would put in a quart of kerosene (it was inexpensive back then), but diesel is pretty close to kerosene. When I got a really really bad one, like that one, I would just use engine oil, and change it at about 500 miles, then one more time at 500 miles, and then I would encourage a couple more early oil changes... before going to once every 3,000 miles. I wouldn't flush an engine that bad; I'd keep changing the oil early until it was reasonably clean before I would use an engine flush.
My dads friend back in the 80s flush his engine with diesel due to a ticking valve that may have sludge. It work after that he was so a mechanic in the army thats where he learn the trade.
I never run diesel through modern engines. If you want to get rid of sludge in an engine that was severely neglected, I'd get the BG cleaner package. As an alternative, you could get engine oil with a higher calcium content (calcium indicates higher content of detergents) and run two or three consecutive oil changes with 500 mile intervals. Filling in 4 quarts of diesel and one quart of ATF poses a significant risk of bearing damage, even at idle.
@@aurorayoru5333 with "modern", I refer to anything within the last 30-40 years 😉 I mean engines that rely heavily on modern oil properties due to being constructed with more complicated technology like 4-valve, double overhead cams, variable valve timing, reduced bearing material and whatnot.
I DRAINED MY DIESEL FILLED TO TOP OF FILLER CAP LEFT IT A DAY DRAINED TO NORMAL LEVEL DROVE 250 MILES LIGHT USE. DRAINED IT OUT REFILLED WITH DIESEL TO NORMAL LEVEL DROVE 200 MMILES LIGHT USE. ROCKERS ALL NICE AND SHINY ENGINE QUIET AND SMOOTH. DRAINED AND PUT AGRICASTROL OIL.
I diesel flushed my beater when I bought it. It had 20000 miles without oil change. I just used 0.5 liter diesel and new oil and ran it on high idle for 20 min. Changed oil again. Now it runs like a dream and the previous valve ticking is gone
Used to clean my engine with a liter of diesel. Before oilchange I would top the oil up with the diesel let it circulate, leave it over night than warm up the engine with driving around the block with not so high rpm and then change the oil and filter. Was a high milage VW Golf 1.6 Mk1. Worked fine. But I don't know if I would do it with modern diesel...
3:38 I did that the other day on a car I was working on. Dropped a socket and had to use an endoscope to fish around and find it. Thought I'd never get it out but I finally did.
I've never seen this done personally but my brother talked about this when I ws a teenager in the 1960's. It isn't an attempt to fix anything. It is an attempt remove the sludge in order to allow the engine to last as long as possible.There were a number of approaches. The approach as I remember was to use regular oil with the diesel and flush 3 to 4 times replacing the filter each time. In some cases the engine would be filled completely with diesel and allowed to soak a day or two without running the motor then drained off prior to filling and running ther engine a few times. One needs to remember that modern filter systems do not filter all the oil that is circulating. Once the oil pressure reaches a certain point the spring in the filter is compressed and the oil will bypass the filtration membrane...this makes it important to lower the idle rpms as much as possible which in the old days was fairly easy to do but not so much with electronically controlled modern systems.
Filled it on top with gas. Just pure gas. Let it soke for 24 to 48 hours. Then drain the gas out and fill it up with diesel and let it run for a little. 5 mins max. Then change it with the oil and drive about 50 km then. Change the oil again. Then it will be much much cleaner.
I have used the trick of draining 3/4 of my oil, then topping up with diesel, and running the car for 10-20 miles. Then draining the thinner oil when hot, before filling up with 100% oil. This helps drain more old oil out of the engine, and clean up the parts a bit.
I've been doing my own oil changes since 1974. With a few exceptions (4000-mile intervals with a '68 and three month intervals with an '86), I've stuck to the 5000 mile rule of thumb. The way I see it, if the oil has turned black, you've waited too long. My '88 Jeep Cherokee lasted 35 years.
When I was young the old guys would say dump a quart of kerosene in the old oil, engine heated up, run it, then change the oil. I once had a fuel pump seal (mechanical) leak in to the block on a several hundred miles trip. That engine was leaking from every gasket when I got home. Must have been a gallon of gas in the oil. But that engine was clean as a whistle!
@constitutionalUSA nowadays when high pressure fuel pump leaks gas into engine, we get rich codes and misfire! Gas is more volatile from an ignition standpoint and just won't do in this situation. Diesel overall clean better while lubricating. Gas will evaporate and dissipate unlike diesel when free standing
You only need to add 500ml of diesel to normal engine oil and run it for 30 miles or so, then fresh filter and normal oil. Do another flush after 500 miles with 500ml 9f disel again and it should be good. Dropping the sump and cleaning it out will help alot as well.
Rather than do an engine flush with some fancy expensive oil additive 'potion', I'd just drain off the oil, put some cheap oil in, change the filter, run it like you stole it for 500 miles or so, then swap out the oil for the better stuff. Oil has cleaning detergents built in, it naturally flushes the engine and helps to reduce carbon and sludge build up. Better still just do more regular oil and filter changes, I change mine every 5k miles, even though the service interval is closer to 20k miles⚠😲😳
If you have a slugged up motor, the only thing that you should flush it with is ATF. ATF is formulated with detergents to keep a tranny clean and additives that help seals to remain pliable. If I have a dirty engine, I will often add a quart of ATF 100 miles before the next oil change. Give it a try, it can't hurt. (But diesel sure can!)
I recommend using kerosene . I usually use 1/2 quart of kerosene to 4 1/2 quarts of oil 10w 40 and 20w 50 for 8 cylinder engines I used kerosene the first time when I removed the head from a 2012 nissan altima removing the the lifter cap 2 were stuck and I put kerosene on them it dissolved the baked oil instantly and from there I been using it in engines as well a on the oily engines as degreaser and it cleans engines perfectly letting them drip dry
I dont know how many miles i put on my truck but every 3-4 months i change the oil and twice a year i change the air filter. My truck has 270k miles on it and i would drive it from coast to coast if needed
The whole point of a remote filter mount is to give yourself the ability to mount a sufficient size filter in the proper orientation. Not to make it MORE inconvenient. Like mid 90's GM, solved the hard to reach filter with the impossible to remove filter (behind the headlight, in front of the battery). Then they "fixed" the location, but now it was sideways.
Chemist here, diesel is a good choice for doing what was done, maybe a little less so the bearings don't get a hard time/ add some ATF. However, you need to pull the sump and clean the sludge out of the sump as it will block the pickup and starve the engine of oil. You might get not away with 3000ml before it happens.....
I do not recommend flushing an engine with kerosene/diesel. When I was 14, I bought a 1976 Ford Elite that had a 351M engine that seemed to run perfectly. When my dad and I changed the oil, the oil had clumps in it. He got the idea to flush it out with some diesel. So, we put the diesel in it and ran it for a little bit, then drained it and filled it with fresh oil and filter. Shortly after, a rod started knocking and the oil light stayed on at idle. We pulled the engine in my brother's father-in-law's garage and tore the engine down. The bearings were all wiped. Since I was only 14 and knew nothing about rebuilding engines and my dad didn't know much more than I did, we ended up scrapping the car.
Whoever sold it to you had a rod knock, put some damn super thick gear oil in to hide the rod knock, then you guys flushed it & back cones uncle Rodney…… the diesel had nothing to do w the rod knock, I’ve done this several times w several different cars. Never had a problem
We got an old kubota 3 cylinder. did something similar except we removed probably 3 quarts of oil that was ready to be changed. and put in 3 quarts of diesel with one quart of old oil. ran the tractor at idle for probably an hour. the oils been way cleaner every oil change since.
If you want to flush your engine just fill it to the btim with diesel and leave it for a full day dont crank or start the engine just fill it and leave it You drain that diesel the following day and add new oil You want to remove the oil sludge thats clinging to the inside of the engine as most of the moving parts don't sludge up
Or pull spark plugs, disable fuel injection and crank to circulate then let it sit. This man was brave to run an hour, but that engine was borderline about to be a core. A few or days of driving there would have been nothing to salvage.
We are seeing this a lot now, sadly it’s basically down to the engine grade @2.00 minutes, the oil decal ( sticker) states 0w20, (if that was in JLR a Gas (petrol) vehicle, that would be ACEA grade of C5-6) however it’s in a diesel engine it’s most likely it will be a ACEA grade of C2. The root cause is that it’s an euro 6 engine ( meaning it also uses AdBlue which causing other problems to the running of the engine. This grade of oil doesn’t like short trips, I.e. stop/start running, the school run, the shopping run of less than a mile, this is very common on Land Rover/ Range Rovers and Jaguar’s. How to get around this problem by regularly changing the oil, in my case JLR states servicing 15000 miles on the 2.0 engines that we say to our customers is to carry out the main service and then carry out a micro service then replace oil filter and engine oil every 5,000 miles and we haven’t seen one sludge up since. The Gas (petrol) engines are worse the service interval these engines are 24000 miles /24 months which is ridiculous.
Too late for that, less expensive is changing the oil when needed. Some people should have a boat horn or siren installed to alert them for oil changes.
It takes time to build up, it takes time to remove. I would be using the cheapest crappiest oil in spec and change it every 1000 until it starts coming out clean, throw in your favorite snake oil if it makes you feel better (seafoam mmo etc).
Hi! I do like that: 1. Add petroleum cleaner (about 300mL) in to old oil. 2. Run motor about 15? (about) minutes. 3. Flush everything. 4. Add fake motor oil and run 30 minutes (no oil filter change). 5. Flush everything. 6. Add diesel about 3 Liters. 7. Shake car hevely/ relax, shake it again/ relax, end sometimes again. 8. Leave it 24 hours. 9. Shake last time. 10. Flush everything. 11. Change oil filter and use Synthetic motor oil of your choice. Be happy! 🍻 P.S. Change motor oil after 15 000 km :).
As much as cars cost, and as nice a car this was, I'm shocked that the maintenance wasn't kept up on it. It's a horrible waste to let a car like this one go without basic oil changes. I've put 300,000 miles on my cars, sold them, and I still see them cruising around. If anything, I over maintained them, and it paid off.
Best way to remove sludge safely is to add 2 to 3 quarts of transmission fluid inside engine and drive it for 20 minutes it will clean it completely out. Transmission fluid is safer than diesel and will do better job.
I would maybe have just changed the oil every 3000 miles for a few times until the dipstick stayed clean. 🤷🏻♂️ I really hope the engine isn’t ruined now.
I use a 1 litre of mineral turps when I flush my V8 Mercedes it's an 01 ML 500 and it works good,fast idle ten minutes and drain for a few hrs,oil is clean..
I will never go to one of those chain company shops. So many horror stories about the work done there. I always either go to a independent mechanic, or just me and a few friends doing simple stuff ourselves.
A Diesel rated Oil like Rotella , Delo , Delvac will Clean a Gas engine They have a Higher Detergent Package then Regular Gas SN rated oils have , Look up the Data Spec for Restore & Protect and you see its Nothing Special on the Detergent Package !!
@DanWright-w7x I agree 100% on the detergent qualities of diesel oil. I think for a gas engine, my first go-to would be the Valvoline product. Lake Speed The oil geek guy has a good video at the Valvoline lab about the restore product.
For me, im gonna open that head cover and the oil pan first, and scrape it how much i can get, after then pour 100% COOKING palm oil!! Run it for 15-30 minutes, and drain it Check head cover and oil pan again, and also clean oil filter inside the pan, Fill it with diesel oil engine (summer time reccomended), mixed with 10-20% palm cooking oil, From there you can do interval change from 300, 600, 900, 1200, 1500, etc Of course with mixed palm cooking oil
Cooking oil are you serious it's film strength is so weak you would trash your bearings within 5 minutes you'd put regular oil in it with its adjective packages to support the Egypt and create the proper oil film and then drain that cooking oil my God
I'm not shure about palm oil-never used it in this application. But thinking about vegetable oil, and only as mixture with engine oil. How's about that ?
if that sticker was the last oil change it went 22,399 miles on that oil and filter. Not that far off the new 20,000 miles some new synthetic oils say they are good for. Food for thought
Have you tried ATS 505CRO? I've never used it with that much sludge, but I've had great results with moderate buildup. It definitely costs more than what you used, but your results may be better. great video 👍
Thnx for the informative video. The diesel/trans oil mix doesn't damage the engine? I'm thinking about trying it in a GMC Sierra pickup with a stuck lifter
The owner has KILLED the engine! ......Next comes rod knocking...the end!!! By introducing non-standard fluids, do you think you open yourself up to a liability claim when the rod knocking starts?
Did something like this nearly 40 years ago with transmission fluid, engine soon started rod knocking, my advice ,DON'T. Do a series of low milage oil and filter changes instead of trick fluids and cleaners ,a lot safer.
Wow that's way too much diesel bro. For that level of soft sludge it be 2 qrts regular engine oil, 2 qrts automatic transmission fluid a d 2 qrts diesel and let that car idle for 30 mins. You could ad a slide rev not exceeding 1500 rpm. Only experience mechanics to attempt these kinds of repairs. It removes the sludge because the sludge was soft. Diesel cannot remove hard sludge or burnt oil in this manner
Its amazing it hadn't seized with that amount of sludge, & the fact it was run so low. There's no way it had an oil change 2 years/20k ago, thats done at least double that. I`ve seen women & elderly people ripped off like this so many times. I dread to think what the bearings/oil pump & finer oilways are like now. Was worth a try with the diesel/trans fluid mix, I`d have been tempted to do another flush with actual oil flush immediately after, with another filter, & I`d have refilled it with diesel oil the third time, probably a 5/40 or so, as diesel oil has more detergents to deal with sludge & soot. It`ll make the exhaust smell a bit funny, & can cause a degree of blocking of the catalyst, but at this stage, the owners really not got much to lose..
Running the engine on diesel might be the cause for the oil problem you're experiencing now. If diesel, soaking in for 24h and not running it (or only for few! seconds after soaking) would possibly have been better. To be safe, just change oil once and then again 100 miles later. That way you'll also get different revs for the cleaning. Yes, diesel is cheap - but this is a car.
I would personally not service that car too much liability. The fact that they try to tell you you were the last one to change the oil they are looking to pin the fault on you. Soon after if this engine fails your pretty much left to pick up the tab by being the last one to touch it.
We used to do this here in Romania in the Communist period and in the early ‘90s because we had very low quality engine oils. Of course we had high tolerance engines in our Dacia 1300s (Renault 12). Old oil out, diesel in, run the engine for five minutes, let it soak for a couple of hours, drain the diesel out, new oil, run in for a day or two and then new oil change. I wouldn’t try it on modern engines though, clearly not on turbos.
Cool - but the engine will crap out shortly afterwards. "Cleaning" it leads to big chunks breaking free & circulating. Them chunks block oilways, engine die.... I know, I get to rebuild them.
Tell me please, are there any temperatures or operating conditions when some of the oil from the pump can bypass the oil filter? Also, when the filter gets loaded with crap, there is a relief valve in the oil filter right, and the oil goes around the clogged paper element?
I just tried to drain my 76 Jeep j10s 360 after only 1500 miles. I bought it a year ago and have been restoring its body and evrrything.. obviously changed the oil when i got it. It was jist black.. but nothing out of ordinary. 1500 miles later.. i pulled the plug as i noticed the dipstick was black... and nothing came out.. lol i had to put a screwdrive in there it had soooo much sludge and black thick oil come out. I was shocked... so in 1500 miles the fresh oil degunked the engine.. i had no idea it was even sludged.. insanity how people never change oil. I should pull the oil pan. But i just refilled it. Ima take a valve cover off though as im curious how bad it looks on the top end now
How does a sludge build up, although am not expert but have had cars for long time, sludge build from escape of gases onto the chambers from failed piston rings and valve seals. For such extensive build up I'd do engine rebuild after cleaning.
Drain old oil and replace filter, add some cheap engine oil add the engine flush to the engine, then take the car for a spin upto operating temperature. Drain oil and replace filter, top up with your normal top quality oil. Job done the oil will be as clear as honey thecengine has been deep cleaned.
Diesel isn't a bad bulk cleaner but frankly gasoline does a much faster job and you also don't want to use thin oil like that ATF you're better off using cheap 10w-40 or 20w-50 which can take the dilution and not become dangerously thin and cause a bearing to spin and throw a rod. Honda's 1.5T engines almost never sludge. Want to know why? It's because of the high fuel dilution, all that gasoline in the oil is acting like a constant engine cleaner.
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Had a customer take his Lexus to the dealer and they did a engine flush and on his way home spun a bearing on the way home.when you flush a engine all that junk goes through the oil pump and the bearings.not a good idea.
@frankwaddle3991 I'm gonna respond to this because I don't think you or others understand how the lubrication system operates.
If there's preexisting damage, it's irreparable. Sludge is superficial, and there are safety mechanisms in place. Such as a strainer, pump to pulverize and filter to filtrate. The oil filter does a great job doing it's job.
These cases you guys bring up are case by case situations and are circumstantial on individual bases and should be treated as such, but yall stories are interesting either for or against this procedure.
I provide evidence in my case with the lack thereof on your and others behalf. I can back up my claim while yall can't. I'm simply not gonna allow you to instill fear with this process due to it meeting the necessary criteria for this.
To add, I don't put the dealer on a pedestal because they're human that make mistakes just like me, thing is they have more heads than my 1.
Stick around for the update, despite my proof not being persuasive, this case doesn't live up to your claim and others of failing. When done properly you can achieve best case on a bad situation. This is a TREATMENT not a SOLUTION
Isn't that what the oil filter is for?
A dealer did a flush?😮
I would say it was a coincidence the flush wouldn't hurt the motor..
So customer neglected car, now blames dealer.
I remember watching my grandfather do that 35 years ago. His Toyota had 600,000 miles when he died, truck was still running.
Amazing how many "experts" are here commenting. They didn't even listen to what you said. You did the best you could under the circumstances (lame owner). Well done, sir!
@@WilliamMeans-u5v lol... 98 percent of people on my channel don't listen 😆
@@partsshooter Its a CellPhone BRAIN DEAD society we are in. Cant hear anything whatsoever.
@@partsshootercustomers always want to cheap out, I’m pushing 60 and had to quit doing vehicles. People love their motorcycles a lot more lol so I stick to them now. Great job brother PS 1/2 the idiots giving advice on here have never held a wrench and that’s obvious. 🐾✌️🇺🇸
@@partsshooterHuh, what did you say? lol
@@partsshooterI do listen….. Most of them comment on something they don’t know. You keep on WRENCHING BUD
I de-sludged my (somewhat "neglected") GM V6 with a couple of kerosene flushes.
Worked BRILLIANTLY.
How much kerosene?
Bingo!
@@Christopherbeveradd quart to old oil, warmed up. Run 10 mins and change oil.
@@constitutionalUSA thanks! I read the ingredients on off the shelf flushes and it’s basically kerosene diesel and some other stuff
@@Christopherbever I once flushed a Toyota Echo engine using 50/50 oil/kerosene,
idled it for 2 hours and drove it around a bit at low speeds/rpms,
It cleared up piston ring/oil return holes and reduced the oil consumption by at least half.
This is why i change my oil and filter every 5-6k, my 2001 car has been in the family since a year old and the results from a recent leak down test were very good, long may it continue!
do oil analysis next time use a good synthetic and i think you’ll be surprised that your oil would last longer. IF the motor is in good shape. i have a number of cars they all get 1 yr change..never had an issue. i keep my cars a long time. i use a bypass filter on my f250 7.3 that’s what over the road truckers use.
@fyrcapnstuff7545 I second this. If the car is well taken care of, 7500-mile intervals are fine. 10,000 miles is the absolute limit. Past that you're actively damaging the engine.
3k mis oil change on my Toyota. Full synthetic, Toyota filter. It has 1.2 million miles, original motor and trans. Your oil is dirty at 3k trust me
@@joeblow8206 I've seen oil lab analysis on several vehicles, and it doesn't make much difference until 7500. At that point, the oil filter needs to be changed anyways. Modern oil outlasts the filters nowadays. I'm sure you've taken great care of your Toyota, but I doubt that changing fluids is the only contributing factor.
Owner of a 1.8T VW here(621,000 miles, original engine and turbo even) I wont even chance 5 or 6k. 3k max, even with full synth 5w40. Doesn't matter if you use FS or a blend, they'll both be equally as filthy at 3k. Try it, drain it at 3, guarantee you your oil is disgusting.
ATF a couple quarts added to clean oil . let engine idle up to temp . Run 20 minutes at temp drain . ATF is so highly detergent will wash internal parts . A company used Jetta instead of diesel . The engine I had to heat pan up so oil would drain . Solid oil . ATF is so highly detergent can wash hands in it . Use some Rotella T engine oil . U will be suprized how clean internal parts will get . Only a suggestion that filter will be full or crap in a couple hundred miles change filter add. Quart n do again . The oil is for hard working engines different weights non synthetic in rotella T4 and what ever weight u want . Been doing this since 1960, then was non detergent oil . So sludge was a constant problem . Too old to do the work any longer . Just passin on what worked real well . Have a good one !
Does really mixing ATF gear oil and cheap oil can flush engine well ? How many times in this car case will it clean like brand new ?
Charles when you say a couple of quarts to oil!.. what size engine are you refering!..I have 4 cylinder motor.
@@john2ndnameHe started by clean oil and bring it up to temps, so I take it drain the old oil, replace one of the new oil quarts for transmission fluid.
So if your engine takes 5qts of oil, during cleaning use 4 and 1 of Automatic transmission fluid. I have done this same steps on VW, Honda, Toyota engines, does work. Just don't leave the trans fluid in, warm up, drive a little and bring it back to drain it out, for new only fresh oil.
@@john2ndnamedepends on oil capacity probably don't want to use more than 25 to40 percent tran fluid to capacity only run at ideal fore ten to 15 minutes at operating temperature (turn heater off completely so engine gets hotter and stays hotter) with fresh oil and tran fluid with new filter and drain rather quickly before oil cools off u might consider changing oil after replacing oil and filter after say 100 to 500 miles of driving. make sure it is wise to flush engine; some manufacturers say don't! do it. ps there are professional flushing machines that auto technician use in a shop u might want to go that route instead especially if it's bad and u value ur cars engine
ATF I can confirm works best I would drain a quart or 2 and add the same to the engine. Do that a few times till you have clean oil come out.
You can use diesel and transmission fluid as cleaber but you’ll have to mix it with heavier engine oil like 10w40 or 15w40 so you’re not running too thin of an mixture that will wipe out bearings
That diesel and tranny fluid was probably lubricating better than what was in there before. Should use some Seafoam in that engine for a few oil changes. That stuff works wonders.
@@johnarnold893 Seafoam is mostly diesel fuel
Transmission is sae30. Wouldnt load the engine but idling ok
It'll do the thing, just don't load the engine. AC and everything else off and just idle.
I wouldn't even touch that thing. I'd send it on and tell the customer, I'm sorry, but its too much of a liability. If I was to work on it, I would need them to sign several waivers.
Wrong... You should donate a brand new engine to the customer
@@GOLTURBO555 Slide your mechanic’s number please, I’m in the market for a free engine!
On an Infiniti, no less!!!😮
Fact
I would turn it away before it blew up in my shop. 😂
I work at a dealership and one of the ladies in the office owns a 2017 Infiniti QX60, same engine as this one. She didn't change the oil for 30k miles. The sludge i encountered was just as bad as what you saw on this video. Surprised it still ran decent. I just did the oil change, then 2 drain and fills. Then another oil change 1 week later. It definitely cleaned up the inside of the engine. She swore up and down that she's changed her oil on it many times since i worked there. I've been working there for 3 years and not once seen her bring her car in. And proved that she hasn't changed it cuz her oil sticker said it was due at 36k miles and her car had 58k miles.
@RicardoPCGamer thanks for that story. I would've love to have seen the difference yours made.
Good thing in our situation the sludge isn't baked on as some can look like coal chunks.
Let the car run for 30 minutes just on diesel and one quarter of transmission oil is very wrong and can damage the main and rod bearings you should have to do 50% diesel and clean oil and let it ideal for no more then 10 minutes and then do the oil change at 1000 miles or less and flush again and do oil change at 1000 miles again and repeat this process until engine get clean.
On you comment you said at 3000 miles car had oil light flashing that is because slug debris stuck in oil pump and lubrication Channels and blocking the oil transferring holes so that's why you have to do oil change at 500 and max 1000 miles to get rid of the debris .
@@klaidenmorad103 Her infiniti is gone. She traded it in and got a new car.
One of the best videos I have seen in a very long time here on RUclips amazing work and commentary. This is what a video should be like.❤
If he came to my shop and told me I did the last oil change when clearly I did not, his car would be another shop's problem. I'll never lie to my customers and I expect the same back.
@howardwoodruff4087 I totally understand you. I'm my case though, the tone wasn't aggressive more of doubt sounding, "I think you did the oil change last". I did change their otger vehicles oil but made it clear it wasn't this one. 😎
I been servicing their cars for years, he's cool
He never changed the oil in over 30,000 miles…what makes you think he will come back in 3000 miles…that engine is a ticking time bomb!..
Please please look after your hands/skin, use gloves / barrier cream / wash & moisturize. I've been involved in engineering and mechanics since the 70's, regret not having done these things myself, initially, but started in the 90's. That saved me a lot of damage later on. Guys who I know never did this and have wrecked their hands/arms from old oil, grease and coolants. Then vigorous scrubbing afterwards to clean up only exacerbated the issue.
Remember the song 'SunScreen'. That says it all. Do it and thank me in 20 years!
Good content, nice to see someone prepared to be a little 'old school' about cleaning up the inside of the engine before just changing the oil & filter.
Great advice, my Father didn't use gloves ever and died prematurely of brain cancer. Solvents enter your body through the skin and cause all kinds of serious issues.
I'm surprised this engine still runs as well as it does with all that sludge.
Mann and Hummel oil filters are top notch german quality....I am pretty sure, it is the first filter this car was equipped with when new
I agree that this does work... I have done it and this was shown to me by my dad.... as you said every case is different. I did have one engine fail afterwards.... Ithe first sludge removal loosened and removed a lot of the sludge but not long after sludge clogged up the screen on the pickup tube and the engine spun a rod bearing. Now I wouldn't do this just once.... I would repeat the sludge removal until the drained fluid is much clearer then clean cheap oil for a couple hours than another oil change. I would strongly recommend that people watching this video have this process done by a reputable mechanic. My dad also warned me not to rev the engine while the cleaning solution is in the engine... he said THAT results in spun or damaged bearings. Maybe less likely with modern engines designed for low viscosity oils... We were doing this on engines made prior to 1980.
The engine you are working on here... I would bet that cheap oil was used by whoever changed it.... no detergent action. I only use high quality synthetic oil now.
That engine has probably lost half it's life from running that sludge.
yup that IS the problem.
And the other half it’s life running diesel.
Back in the 70's, we did diesel flushes and the end result almost always was a blown motor. Seems the loosened sludge would plug up the intake or the pump after a few hundred miles. Had much better luck with high detergent diesel oil and very frequent oil changes. Even then engine failure happened. The key is to not let them get that bad.
The filters were plugging. Seeing a covered suction screen is the result, not the cause.
YOU REALLY CAN CLEAN SLUDGE WITH DIESEL. WHILE I WAS DOING THE HEAD GASKET ON MY 92 COROLLA, I POURED DIESEL INTO THE CYLINDERS AND MOVED THE CYLINDERS UP AND DOWN. REPEATED OVER A WEEK. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND NOTICED VERY MINIMAL OIL BURNING AND MORE COMPRESSION NOW.
PLEASE STOP SHOUTING😢
WHAT?!!!
What I used to do was a 5-minute flush with 1 quart of engine flush. From what I understand, back in the old days, they would put in a quart of kerosene (it was inexpensive back then), but diesel is pretty close to kerosene. When I got a really really bad one, like that one, I would just use engine oil, and change it at about 500 miles, then one more time at 500 miles, and then I would encourage a couple more early oil changes... before going to once every 3,000 miles. I wouldn't flush an engine that bad; I'd keep changing the oil early until it was reasonably clean before I would use an engine flush.
I personally use fuel oil, and has more lubricating properties built into it. Been doing it since I was 15, I am now 68 never had a problem.
The owner of that car should be reported to the SPCA Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Automobiles.....
My dads friend back in the 80s flush his engine with diesel due to a ticking valve that may have sludge. It work after that he was so a mechanic in the army thats where he learn the trade.
I never run diesel through modern engines. If you want to get rid of sludge in an engine that was severely neglected, I'd get the BG cleaner package.
As an alternative, you could get engine oil with a higher calcium content (calcium indicates higher content of detergents) and run two or three consecutive oil changes with 500 mile intervals.
Filling in 4 quarts of diesel and one quart of ATF poses a significant risk of bearing damage, even at idle.
I could be wrong but I don’t think this engine is particularly modern
@@aurorayoru5333 with "modern", I refer to anything within the last 30-40 years 😉
I mean engines that rely heavily on modern oil properties due to being constructed with more complicated technology like 4-valve, double overhead cams, variable valve timing, reduced bearing material and whatnot.
And whatnot, ...for example, now we see a bicycle chain in the distribution and another as fragile for the oil pump.
@@alfonsoaslbox4121 that too
I've got a 2008 car with a 1.5L diesel in it that's done maybe 150,000 miles and I wouldn't do this flush on even that car while it's running fine.
I DRAINED MY DIESEL
FILLED TO TOP OF FILLER CAP
LEFT IT A DAY
DRAINED TO NORMAL LEVEL
DROVE 250 MILES LIGHT USE.
DRAINED IT OUT REFILLED WITH DIESEL TO NORMAL LEVEL
DROVE 200 MMILES LIGHT USE.
ROCKERS ALL NICE AND SHINY
ENGINE QUIET AND SMOOTH.
DRAINED AND PUT AGRICASTROL OIL.
I diesel flushed my beater when I bought it. It had 20000 miles without oil change. I just used 0.5 liter diesel and new oil and ran it on high idle for 20 min. Changed oil again. Now it runs like a dream and the previous valve ticking is gone
Good job sir!! Trying to unscrew what others screwed is no small task!
Used to clean my engine with a liter of diesel. Before oilchange I would top the oil up with the diesel let it circulate, leave it over night than warm up the engine with driving around the block with not so high rpm and then change the oil and filter. Was a high milage VW Golf 1.6 Mk1. Worked fine. But I don't know if I would do it with modern diesel...
@@momoloo141 why not use it with modern diesel today?
3:38 I did that the other day on a car I was working on. Dropped a socket and had to use an endoscope to fish around and find it. Thought I'd never get it out but I finally did.
I've never seen this done personally but my brother talked about this when I ws a teenager in the 1960's. It isn't an attempt to fix anything. It is an attempt remove the sludge in order to allow the engine to last as long as possible.There were a number of approaches. The approach as I remember was to use regular oil with the diesel and flush 3 to 4 times replacing the filter each time. In some cases the engine would be filled completely with diesel and allowed to soak a day or two without running the motor then drained off prior to filling and running ther engine a few times. One needs to remember that modern filter systems do not filter all the oil that is circulating. Once the oil pressure reaches a certain point the spring in the filter is compressed and the oil will bypass the filtration membrane...this makes it important to lower the idle rpms as much as possible which in the old days was fairly easy to do but not so much with electronically controlled modern systems.
@jchavins I understand where you coming from with you logic about oil filter and bypass.
Nice job on your camera work, narration.
I enjoyed the video.
Filled it on top with gas. Just pure gas. Let it soke for 24 to 48 hours. Then drain the gas out and fill it up with diesel and let it run for a little. 5 mins max. Then change it with the oil and drive about 50 km then. Change the oil again. Then it will be much much cleaner.
Its a bad idea
@@fritzsnickerz855try it first. Then speak
I have used the trick of draining 3/4 of my oil, then topping up with diesel, and running the car for 10-20 miles. Then draining the thinner oil when hot, before filling up with 100% oil. This helps drain more old oil out of the engine, and clean up the parts a bit.
I've been doing my own oil changes since 1974. With a few exceptions (4000-mile intervals with a '68 and three month intervals with an '86), I've stuck to the 5000 mile rule of thumb. The way I see it, if the oil has turned black, you've waited too long. My '88 Jeep Cherokee lasted 35 years.
When I was young the old guys would say dump a quart of kerosene in the old oil, engine heated up, run it, then change the oil.
I once had a fuel pump seal (mechanical) leak in to the block on a several hundred miles trip. That engine was leaking from every gasket when I got home. Must have been a gallon of gas in the oil.
But that engine was clean as a whistle!
@constitutionalUSA nowadays when high pressure fuel pump leaks gas into engine, we get rich codes and misfire!
Gas is more volatile from an ignition standpoint and just won't do in this situation. Diesel overall clean better while lubricating. Gas will evaporate and dissipate unlike diesel when free standing
You only need to add 500ml of diesel to normal engine oil and run it for 30 miles or so, then fresh filter and normal oil. Do another flush after 500 miles with 500ml 9f disel again and it should be good. Dropping the sump and cleaning it out will help alot as well.
Rather than do an engine flush with some fancy expensive oil additive 'potion', I'd just drain off the oil, put some cheap oil in, change the filter, run it like you stole it for 500 miles or so, then swap out the oil for the better stuff.
Oil has cleaning detergents built in, it naturally flushes the engine and helps to reduce carbon and sludge build up.
Better still just do more regular oil and filter changes, I change mine every 5k miles, even though the service interval is closer to 20k miles⚠😲😳
Which car has 20k miles oil change interval recommended?
most new cars in europe... around 15-20k miles
@@Elrafau, I believe Europeans use the kilometres instead of miles, 1.6km to a mile.
@@mohammadshamsuddin9978 i know that ;) but said in miles cause american mind doesnt work as good as european
using this technique learned it from my father long time good job
If you have a slugged up motor, the only thing that you should flush it with is ATF. ATF is formulated with detergents to keep a tranny clean and additives that help seals to remain pliable. If I have a dirty engine, I will often add a quart of ATF 100 miles before the next oil change. Give it a try, it can't hurt. (But diesel sure can!)
Bg extreme flush is your only man . 2 5 litre bottles one flush and one rinsed . If the dirt falls to fast it blocks the pick up end of engine
Did like you several times, all ok .
No damage whatsoever
I recommend using kerosene . I usually use 1/2 quart of kerosene to 4 1/2 quarts of oil 10w 40 and 20w 50 for 8 cylinder engines I used kerosene the first time when I removed the head from a 2012 nissan altima removing the the lifter cap 2 were stuck and I put kerosene on them it dissolved the baked oil instantly and from there I been using it in engines as well a on the oily engines as degreaser and it cleans engines perfectly letting them drip dry
I dont know how many miles i put on my truck but every 3-4 months i change the oil and twice a year i change the air filter. My truck has 270k miles on it and i would drive it from coast to coast if needed
I’ve done this before with diesel no issues.
The whole point of a remote filter mount is to give yourself the ability to mount a sufficient size filter in the proper orientation. Not to make it MORE inconvenient. Like mid 90's GM, solved the hard to reach filter with the impossible to remove filter (behind the headlight, in front of the battery). Then they "fixed" the location, but now it was sideways.
@andrewb8548 what in the world are you referring to or talking about? Where in the video is this even a topic?
This engine really clatters for sure. Seems the flush is working fella.
That Chocolate syrup is meant to lubricate the oil cap and dip stick, totally fine!
Will Vaseline work next time?
@@partsshootermaybe that guy was talking about sodomy lubricant
Should refill with diesel engine oil , has detergent in it ?
Chemist here, diesel is a good choice for doing what was done, maybe a little less so the bearings don't get a hard time/ add some ATF. However, you need to pull the sump and clean the sludge out of the sump as it will block the pickup and starve the engine of oil. You might get not away with 3000ml before it happens.....
💯
Absolutely. Drop the oil pan and clean the pickup. Obviously if the owner isn’t going to pay for that…it’s not going to happen.
I do not recommend flushing an engine with kerosene/diesel. When I was 14, I bought a 1976 Ford Elite that had a 351M engine that seemed to run perfectly. When my dad and I changed the oil, the oil had clumps in it. He got the idea to flush it out with some diesel. So, we put the diesel in it and ran it for a little bit, then drained it and filled it with fresh oil and filter. Shortly after, a rod started knocking and the oil light stayed on at idle. We pulled the engine in my brother's father-in-law's garage and tore the engine down. The bearings were all wiped. Since I was only 14 and knew nothing about rebuilding engines and my dad didn't know much more than I did, we ended up scrapping the car.
The pickup probably got blocked.
There's no other explanation
@@CableWrestler I don't remember us finding anything in the pickup.
@@T_Burd_75 you should have put more oil in and dropped it again
@@leeyo5494 Coulda, shoulda, woulda...
Whoever sold it to you had a rod knock, put some damn super thick gear oil in to hide the rod knock, then you guys flushed it & back cones uncle Rodney…… the diesel had nothing to do w the rod knock, I’ve done this several times w several different cars. Never had a problem
We got an old kubota 3 cylinder. did something similar except we removed probably 3 quarts of oil that was ready to be changed. and put in 3 quarts of diesel with one quart of old oil. ran the tractor at idle for probably an hour. the oils been way cleaner every oil change since.
I had a 2004 VW Passat W8 with the dreaded sticking cam adjusters. I did a flush with half Seafoam and trans fluid to no avail. Really miss that car!
Im not sure i would run diesel with that thin of an oil, maybe a little bit thicker, but this definitely works well.
If you want to flush your engine just fill it to the btim with diesel and leave it for a full day dont crank or start the engine just fill it and leave it
You drain that diesel the following day and add new oil
You want to remove the oil sludge thats clinging to the inside of the engine as most of the moving parts don't sludge up
Or pull spark plugs, disable fuel injection and crank to circulate then let it sit. This man was brave to run an hour, but that engine was borderline about to be a core. A few or days of driving there would have been nothing to salvage.
Oh look! A ferro-fluid producing machine.
We are seeing this a lot now, sadly it’s basically down to the engine grade @2.00 minutes, the oil decal ( sticker) states 0w20, (if that was in JLR a Gas (petrol) vehicle, that would be ACEA grade of C5-6) however it’s in a diesel engine it’s most likely it will be a ACEA grade of C2. The root cause is that it’s an euro 6 engine ( meaning it also uses
AdBlue which causing other problems to the running of the engine.
This grade of oil doesn’t like short trips, I.e. stop/start running, the school run, the shopping run of less than a mile, this is very common on Land Rover/ Range Rovers and Jaguar’s. How to get around this problem by regularly changing the oil, in my case JLR states servicing 15000 miles on the 2.0 engines that we say to our customers is to carry out the main service and then carry out a micro service then replace oil filter and engine oil every 5,000 miles and we haven’t seen one sludge up since. The Gas (petrol) engines are worse the service interval these engines are 24000 miles /24 months which is ridiculous.
The correct thing to do is dismantle the entire engine and wash it in a industrial engine wash unit
Too late for that, less expensive is changing the oil when needed. Some people should have a boat horn or siren installed to alert them for oil changes.
If we had to wait until everything was perfect we'd never get anything done.
I'm sure if you prepay to have him tear out that engine and put it back in probably around $4500 he'll be more than happy to do that
It takes time to build up, it takes time to remove. I would be using the cheapest crappiest oil in spec and change it every 1000 until it starts coming out clean, throw in your favorite snake oil if it makes you feel better (seafoam mmo etc).
That new Restore and Protect Valvoline is supposed to be the awesome. Crazy how bad that was.
Hi! I do like that:
1. Add petroleum cleaner (about 300mL) in to old oil.
2. Run motor about 15? (about) minutes.
3. Flush everything.
4. Add fake motor oil and run 30 minutes (no oil filter change).
5. Flush everything.
6. Add diesel about 3 Liters.
7. Shake car hevely/ relax, shake it again/ relax, end sometimes again.
8. Leave it 24 hours.
9. Shake last time.
10. Flush everything.
11. Change oil filter and use Synthetic motor oil of your choice.
Be happy! 🍻
P.S. Change motor oil after 15 000 km :).
As much as cars cost, and as nice a car this was, I'm shocked that the maintenance wasn't kept up on it. It's a horrible waste to let a car like this one go without basic oil changes. I've put 300,000 miles on my cars, sold them, and I still see them cruising around. If anything, I over maintained them, and it paid off.
I run all my engines on rotela from day 1 , no sludge build up at all , oil changes at 6000 miles .
Best way to remove sludge safely is to add 2 to 3 quarts of transmission fluid inside engine and drive it for 20 minutes it will clean it completely out. Transmission fluid is safer than diesel and will do better job.
@lotuslotus718 not true...
If that's the case, why do shops use diesel as parts cleaner and not transmission fluid?
I would maybe have just changed the oil every 3000 miles for a few times until the dipstick stayed clean. 🤷🏻♂️ I really hope the engine isn’t ruined now.
You let it idle for an hour with diesel?? Sheesh. You did your best given the circumstances mate.
90% Royal Purple and 10% Marvel's Mystery Oil works wonderfully. Keeps my engines quiet, clean, smoothly through all RPM speeds.😏
BG offers one hell of a flush kit that works amazing.
I use a 1 litre of mineral turps when I flush my V8 Mercedes it's an 01 ML 500 and it works good,fast idle ten minutes and drain for a few hrs,oil is clean..
I will never go to one of those chain company shops. So many horror stories about the work done there. I always either go to a independent mechanic, or just me and a few friends doing simple stuff ourselves.
Ask any younger generation folks, when the last time they checked their oil level. Youll be amazed how many blank stares you get lol
Valvoline Restore & Protect. I hear very positive things about it for deposits but for sludge?
A Diesel rated Oil like Rotella , Delo , Delvac will Clean a Gas engine They have a Higher Detergent Package then Regular Gas SN rated oils have , Look up the Data Spec for Restore & Protect and you see its Nothing Special on the Detergent Package !!
@DanWright-w7x I agree 100% on the detergent qualities of diesel oil. I think for a gas engine, my first go-to would be the Valvoline product. Lake Speed The oil geek guy has a good video at the Valvoline lab about the restore product.
For me, im gonna open that head cover and the oil pan first, and scrape it how much i can get, after then pour 100% COOKING palm oil!!
Run it for 15-30 minutes, and drain it
Check head cover and oil pan again, and also clean oil filter inside the pan,
Fill it with diesel oil engine (summer time reccomended), mixed with 10-20% palm cooking oil,
From there you can do interval change from 300, 600, 900, 1200, 1500, etc
Of course with mixed palm cooking oil
WHAT !!!! Can you explain why use cooking palm oil ?
Cooking oil are you serious it's film strength is so weak you would trash your bearings within 5 minutes you'd put regular oil in it with its adjective packages to support the Egypt and create the proper oil film and then drain that cooking oil my God
I'm not shure about palm oil-never used it in this application. But thinking about vegetable oil, and only as mixture with engine oil.
How's about that ?
if that sticker was the last oil change it went 22,399 miles on that oil and filter. Not that far off the new 20,000 miles some new synthetic oils say they are good for. Food for thought
Have you tried ATS 505CRO? I've never used it with that much sludge, but I've had great results with moderate buildup. It definitely costs more than what you used, but your results may be better. great video 👍
I wouldn't go over half n half due to oil thinning. Also, don't stress it by driving it. Ask my #3 rod bearing why that is.😢
run it on 50% oil 5w30 and 50% seafoam for few days, repeat 3 times until comes clean, inside valve cover clean it manually with a brush
I have done this with trans. fluid, /kersone mix, works .
Thnx for the informative video. The diesel/trans oil mix doesn't damage the engine? I'm thinking about trying it in a GMC Sierra pickup with a stuck lifter
You should try using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. That would be the real deal.
The owner has KILLED the engine! ......Next comes rod knocking...the end!!! By introducing non-standard fluids, do you think you open yourself up to a liability claim when the rod knocking starts?
Did something like this nearly 40 years ago with transmission fluid, engine soon started rod knocking, my advice ,DON'T. Do a series of low milage oil and filter changes instead of trick fluids and cleaners ,a lot safer.
@@LJJKD1947 by your logic, you're saying this engine will be broken in 3 months?
Brother, modern engine bearings are FARRR different material thant he 70/80s
@@partsshooter I assume that diesel engine flush would have ruined the bearings
@@aurorayoru5333 you ASSume
great video, i will do this with my car to clean out the sludge.
Wow that's way too much diesel bro. For that level of soft sludge it be 2 qrts regular engine oil, 2 qrts automatic transmission fluid a d 2 qrts diesel and let that car idle for 30 mins. You could ad a slide rev not exceeding 1500 rpm. Only experience mechanics to attempt these kinds of repairs. It removes the sludge because the sludge was soft. Diesel cannot remove hard sludge or burnt oil in this manner
Its amazing it hadn't seized with that amount of sludge, & the fact it was run so low. There's no way it had an oil change 2 years/20k ago, thats done at least double that. I`ve seen women & elderly people ripped off like this so many times. I dread to think what the bearings/oil pump & finer oilways are like now. Was worth a try with the diesel/trans fluid mix, I`d have been tempted to do another flush with actual oil flush immediately after, with another filter, & I`d have refilled it with diesel oil the third time, probably a 5/40 or so, as diesel oil has more detergents to deal with sludge & soot. It`ll make the exhaust smell a bit funny, & can cause a degree of blocking of the catalyst, but at this stage, the owners really not got much to lose..
You should try the restore and protect oil advertised for cleaning piston ring area.
yeah you were the last person to do the oil change. 3 years ago LOL
I used 3 litres of regular oil and 1 litre of Diesel. Its a slower process. But safer.
Running the engine on diesel might be the cause for the oil problem you're experiencing now. If diesel, soaking in for 24h and not running it (or only for few! seconds after soaking) would possibly have been better. To be safe, just change oil once and then again 100 miles later. That way you'll also get different revs for the cleaning. Yes, diesel is cheap - but this is a car.
I would personally not service that car too much liability. The fact that they try to tell you you were the last one to change the oil they are looking to pin the fault on you. Soon after if this engine fails your pretty much left to pick up the tab by being the last one to touch it.
He has it on video. He should be fine.
Putting diesel in the case and starting it sounds crazy 😂
@@1div2agent74 explain why
Use ATF! Automatic Transmission Fluid! It has detergents and lubricant.
We used to do this here in Romania in the Communist period and in the early ‘90s because we had very low quality engine oils. Of course we had high tolerance engines in our Dacia 1300s (Renault 12). Old oil out, diesel in, run the engine for five minutes, let it soak for a couple of hours, drain the diesel out, new oil, run in for a day or two and then new oil change. I wouldn’t try it on modern engines though, clearly not on turbos.
Cool - but the engine will crap out shortly afterwards. "Cleaning" it leads to big chunks breaking free & circulating. Them chunks block oilways, engine die.... I know, I get to rebuild them.
Tell me please, are there any temperatures or operating conditions when some of the oil from the pump can bypass the oil filter? Also, when the filter gets loaded with crap, there is a relief valve in the oil filter right, and the oil goes around the clogged paper element?
Kerosene or diesel flushing will affect oil seals and may cause oil leakage.
@@dennisdatu6464 do a video and prove me wrong
How come I only ever see this on a 3.5 infinity?? Usually on a QX60. Usually blowing out smoke. Make sure you change the PCV valve.
I just tried to drain my 76 Jeep j10s 360 after only 1500 miles. I bought it a year ago and have been restoring its body and evrrything.. obviously changed the oil when i got it. It was jist black.. but nothing out of ordinary.
1500 miles later.. i pulled the plug as i noticed the dipstick was black... and nothing came out.. lol i had to put a screwdrive in there it had soooo much sludge and black thick oil come out.
I was shocked... so in 1500 miles the fresh oil degunked the engine.. i had no idea it was even sludged.. insanity how people never change oil.
I should pull the oil pan. But i just refilled it. Ima take a valve cover off though as im curious how bad it looks on the top end now
How does a sludge build up, although am not expert but have had cars for long time, sludge build from escape of gases onto the chambers from failed piston rings and valve seals. For such extensive build up I'd do engine rebuild after cleaning.
Customer apparently didn't want to pay 42 oil flushes you think you can get them to pay for a tear down of the engine
Drain old oil and replace filter, add some cheap engine oil add the engine flush to the engine, then take the car for a spin upto operating temperature. Drain oil and replace filter, top up with your normal top quality oil. Job done the oil will be as clear as honey thecengine has been deep cleaned.
Diesel isn't a bad bulk cleaner but frankly gasoline does a much faster job and you also don't want to use thin oil like that ATF you're better off using cheap 10w-40 or 20w-50 which can take the dilution and not become dangerously thin and cause a bearing to spin and throw a rod. Honda's 1.5T engines almost never sludge. Want to know why? It's because of the high fuel dilution, all that gasoline in the oil is acting like a constant engine cleaner.
It really is shameful the way some people treat their vehicles.