Had a customer take his Lexus to the dealer and they did a engine flush and on his way home spun a bearing on the way home.when you flush a engine all that junk goes through the oil pump and the bearings.not a good idea.
@frankwaddle3991 I'm gonna respond to this because I don't think you or others understand how the lubrication system operates. If there's preexisting damage, it's irreparable. Sludge is superficial, and there are safety mechanisms in place. Such as a strainer, pump to pulverize and filter to filtrate. The oil filter does a great job doing it's job. These cases you guys bring up are case by case situations and are circumstantial on individual bases and should be treated as such, but yall stories are interesting either for or against this procedure. I provide evidence in my case with the lack thereof on your and others behalf. I can back up my claim while yall can't. I'm simply not gonna allow you to instill fear with this process due to it meeting the necessary criteria for this. To add, I don't put the dealer on a pedestal because they're human that make mistakes just like me, thing is they have more heads than my 1. Stick around for the update, despite my proof not being persuasive, this case doesn't live up to your claim and others of failing. When done properly you can achieve best case on a bad situation. This is a TREATMENT not a SOLUTION
I have using diesel oil for cleaning sludge engines already for 25 years. You should let it soak for hours and let the engine run for intervals of 30 min. If you take your time you’ll get most of the sludge out of there. It works magnificent.
@@jturner8922 yeah but I’ll bet your Gramps took Jim. I thought so too. I real good care of that thing. Changed oil didn’t beat on it, but it’s your vehicle they can do it.
Amazing how many "experts" are here commenting. They didn't even listen to what you said. You did the best you could under the circumstances (lame owner). Well done, sir!
@@partsshootercustomers always want to cheap out, I’m pushing 60 and had to quit doing vehicles. People love their motorcycles a lot more lol so I stick to them now. Great job brother PS 1/2 the people giving advice on here have never held a wrench and that’s obvious. 🐾✌️🇺🇸
This is why i change my oil and filter every 5-6k, my 2001 car has been in the family since a year old and the results from a recent leak down test were very good, long may it continue!
do oil analysis next time use a good synthetic and i think you’ll be surprised that your oil would last longer. IF the motor is in good shape. i have a number of cars they all get 1 yr change..never had an issue. i keep my cars a long time. i use a bypass filter on my f250 7.3 that’s what over the road truckers use.
@fyrcapnstuff7545 I second this. If the car is well taken care of, 7500-mile intervals are fine. 10,000 miles is the absolute limit. Past that you're actively damaging the engine.
@@joeblow8206 I've seen oil lab analysis on several vehicles, and it doesn't make much difference until 7500. At that point, the oil filter needs to be changed anyways. Modern oil outlasts the filters nowadays. I'm sure you've taken great care of your Toyota, but I doubt that changing fluids is the only contributing factor.
Owner of a 1.8T VW here(621,000 miles, original engine and turbo even) I wont even chance 5 or 6k. 3k max, even with full synth 5w40. Doesn't matter if you use FS or a blend, they'll both be equally as filthy at 3k. Try it, drain it at 3, guarantee you your oil is disgusting.
ATF a couple quarts added to clean oil . let engine idle up to temp . Run 20 minutes at temp drain . ATF is so highly detergent will wash internal parts . A company used Jetta instead of diesel . The engine I had to heat pan up so oil would drain . Solid oil . ATF is so highly detergent can wash hands in it . Use some Rotella T engine oil . U will be suprized how clean internal parts will get . Only a suggestion that filter will be full or crap in a couple hundred miles change filter add. Quart n do again . The oil is for hard working engines different weights non synthetic in rotella T4 and what ever weight u want . Been doing this since 1960, then was non detergent oil . So sludge was a constant problem . Too old to do the work any longer . Just passin on what worked real well . Have a good one !
@@john2ndnameHe started by clean oil and bring it up to temps, so I take it drain the old oil, replace one of the new oil quarts for transmission fluid. So if your engine takes 5qts of oil, during cleaning use 4 and 1 of Automatic transmission fluid. I have done this same steps on VW, Honda, Toyota engines, does work. Just don't leave the trans fluid in, warm up, drive a little and bring it back to drain it out, for new only fresh oil.
@@john2ndnamedepends on oil capacity probably don't want to use more than 25 to40 percent tran fluid to capacity only run at ideal fore ten to 15 minutes at operating temperature (turn heater off completely so engine gets hotter and stays hotter) with fresh oil and tran fluid with new filter and drain rather quickly before oil cools off u might consider changing oil after replacing oil and filter after say 100 to 500 miles of driving. make sure it is wise to flush engine; some manufacturers say don't! do it. ps there are professional flushing machines that auto technician use in a shop u might want to go that route instead especially if it's bad and u value ur cars engine
@@Christopherbever I once flushed a Toyota Echo engine using 50/50 oil/kerosene, idled it for 2 hours and drove it around a bit at low speeds/rpms, It cleared up piston ring/oil return holes and reduced the oil consumption by at least half.
I work at a dealership and one of the ladies in the office owns a 2017 Infiniti QX60, same engine as this one. She didn't change the oil for 30k miles. The sludge i encountered was just as bad as what you saw on this video. Surprised it still ran decent. I just did the oil change, then 2 drain and fills. Then another oil change 1 week later. It definitely cleaned up the inside of the engine. She swore up and down that she's changed her oil on it many times since i worked there. I've been working there for 3 years and not once seen her bring her car in. And proved that she hasn't changed it cuz her oil sticker said it was due at 36k miles and her car had 58k miles.
@RicardoPCGamer thanks for that story. I would've love to have seen the difference yours made. Good thing in our situation the sludge isn't baked on as some can look like coal chunks.
Let the car run for 30 minutes just on diesel and one quarter of transmission oil is very wrong and can damage the main and rod bearings you should have to do 50% diesel and clean oil and let it ideal for no more then 10 minutes and then do the oil change at 1000 miles or less and flush again and do oil change at 1000 miles again and repeat this process until engine get clean. On you comment you said at 3000 miles car had oil light flashing that is because slug debris stuck in oil pump and lubrication Channels and blocking the oil transferring holes so that's why you have to do oil change at 500 and max 1000 miles to get rid of the debris .
I hadn’t heard of anyone using diesel to flush engines since the ‘80s! I’m impressed by what a change you made in the engine. Even more that you used 4 diesel to 1 ATF! Think I’ll flush my motor this same way with my next oil change. Thank you!
You can use diesel and transmission fluid as cleaber but you’ll have to mix it with heavier engine oil like 10w40 or 15w40 so you’re not running too thin of an mixture that will wipe out bearings
That diesel and tranny fluid was probably lubricating better than what was in there before. Should use some Seafoam in that engine for a few oil changes. That stuff works wonders.
ATF has very little if any detergents or cleaning agents, but quality engine oils do. Gasoline is a vastly superior solvent than diesel, WD40 and MMO are also useful.
I agree that this does work... I have done it and this was shown to me by my dad.... as you said every case is different. I did have one engine fail afterwards.... Ithe first sludge removal loosened and removed a lot of the sludge but not long after sludge clogged up the screen on the pickup tube and the engine spun a rod bearing. Now I wouldn't do this just once.... I would repeat the sludge removal until the drained fluid is much clearer then clean cheap oil for a couple hours than another oil change. I would strongly recommend that people watching this video have this process done by a reputable mechanic. My dad also warned me not to rev the engine while the cleaning solution is in the engine... he said THAT results in spun or damaged bearings. Maybe less likely with modern engines designed for low viscosity oils... We were doing this on engines made prior to 1980. The engine you are working on here... I would bet that cheap oil was used by whoever changed it.... no detergent action. I only use high quality synthetic oil now.
Back in the 70's, we did diesel flushes and the end result almost always was a blown motor. Seems the loosened sludge would plug up the intake or the pump after a few hundred miles. Had much better luck with high detergent diesel oil and very frequent oil changes. Even then engine failure happened. The key is to not let them get that bad.
I diesel flushed my beater when I bought it. It had 20000 miles without oil change. I just used 0.5 liter diesel and new oil and ran it on high idle for 20 min. Changed oil again. Now it runs like a dream and the previous valve ticking is gone
My dads friend back in the 80s flush his engine with diesel due to a ticking valve that may have sludge. It work after that he was so a mechanic in the army thats where he learn the trade.
You could have driven it around all day with the fuel in the crankcase, then let it drain for an hour. Refill it with fresh oil, drive it for a few days, drain it again. If it shows clean, it should be good for regular month oil changes.
Please please look after your hands/skin, use gloves / barrier cream / wash & moisturize. I've been involved in engineering and mechanics since the 70's, regret not having done these things myself, initially, but started in the 90's. That saved me a lot of damage later on. Guys who I know never did this and have wrecked their hands/arms from old oil, grease and coolants. Then vigorous scrubbing afterwards to clean up only exacerbated the issue. Remember the song 'SunScreen'. That says it all. Do it and thank me in 20 years! Good content, nice to see someone prepared to be a little 'old school' about cleaning up the inside of the engine before just changing the oil & filter.
Great advice, my Father didn't use gloves ever and died prematurely of brain cancer. Solvents enter your body through the skin and cause all kinds of serious issues.
I wouldn't even touch that thing. I'd send it on and tell the customer, I'm sorry, but its too much of a liability. If I was to work on it, I would need them to sign several waivers.
I've been using diesel in the crankcase to keep my engine clean and to flush during oil changes. When I had it at the mechanic I asked them how the engine looked in the crankcase, he stated it's one of the cleanest he's ever seen. Aside from my confirmation bias, it was nice to have a mechanic's input. I discovered this by using my nose to sniff other engine cleaning snake oils.
@@NIGHTMAREuki , Ok. I'm glad you don't know the difference between neglect maintenance vs non neglect maintenance. You still have to clean the engine sometime regardless of regular oil maintenance. The oil does not fully change out when changing oil. Old dirty oil remains after every oil change, requiring something else. Thank you for teaching me though I guess
When I was young the old guys would say dump a quart of kerosene in the old oil, engine heated up, run it, then change the oil. I once had a fuel pump seal (mechanical) leak in to the block on a several hundred miles trip. That engine was leaking from every gasket when I got home. Must have been a gallon of gas in the oil. But that engine was clean as a whistle!
@constitutionalUSA nowadays when high pressure fuel pump leaks gas into engine, we get rich codes and misfire! Gas is more volatile from an ignition standpoint and just won't do in this situation. Diesel overall clean better while lubricating. Gas will evaporate and dissipate unlike diesel when free standing
I never run diesel through modern engines. If you want to get rid of sludge in an engine that was severely neglected, I'd get the BG cleaner package. As an alternative, you could get engine oil with a higher calcium content (calcium indicates higher content of detergents) and run two or three consecutive oil changes with 500 mile intervals. Filling in 4 quarts of diesel and one quart of ATF poses a significant risk of bearing damage, even at idle.
@@aurorayoru5333 with "modern", I refer to anything within the last 30-40 years 😉 I mean engines that rely heavily on modern oil properties due to being constructed with more complicated technology like 4-valve, double overhead cams, variable valve timing, reduced bearing material and whatnot.
This works. I accidentally bought a suburban that had been neglected and had sludge. Filled it up with diesel. Ran it for about 20 mins. Emptied it. Filled with clean oil with about half quart of diesel. Drove it for a bit. Drained. Filled with clean oil. It lasted for about another 1.5 years until I was run off the road in a snowstorm and totaled it.
I have a 2017 pathfinder bought used with 47k miles in 2021. I used mobile one 0w-30 in it recommended by the manual. Oil was always vomming out extra dirty and smelling burnt. Also would have bad valve noise on startup and after driving down a 1/4mule driveway. I ran liquimoly 5w40 for two 3000mile oil changes and then swiched to shell rotella T6 5w40 @7000miles. Top end noise has greatly improved and oil is much clearer and does not smell at changes. Also the manual says you need to wait 10 or more minutes after running the engine for the dip stick to be accurate. Guess the oil needs to drain back into tthe pan.
I've never seen this done personally but my brother talked about this when I ws a teenager in the 1960's. It isn't an attempt to fix anything. It is an attempt remove the sludge in order to allow the engine to last as long as possible.There were a number of approaches. The approach as I remember was to use regular oil with the diesel and flush 3 to 4 times replacing the filter each time. In some cases the engine would be filled completely with diesel and allowed to soak a day or two without running the motor then drained off prior to filling and running ther engine a few times. One needs to remember that modern filter systems do not filter all the oil that is circulating. Once the oil pressure reaches a certain point the spring in the filter is compressed and the oil will bypass the filtration membrane...this makes it important to lower the idle rpms as much as possible which in the old days was fairly easy to do but not so much with electronically controlled modern systems.
I have used the trick of draining 3/4 of my oil, then topping up with diesel, and running the car for 10-20 miles. Then draining the thinner oil when hot, before filling up with 100% oil. This helps drain more old oil out of the engine, and clean up the parts a bit.
What I used to do was a 5-minute flush with 1 quart of engine flush. From what I understand, back in the old days, they would put in a quart of kerosene (it was inexpensive back then), but diesel is pretty close to kerosene. When I got a really really bad one, like that one, I would just use engine oil, and change it at about 500 miles, then one more time at 500 miles, and then I would encourage a couple more early oil changes... before going to once every 3,000 miles. I wouldn't flush an engine that bad; I'd keep changing the oil early until it was reasonably clean before I would use an engine flush.
Smart man! There is one and only one engine flush that is actually safe for the engine, and that's engine oil with nothing added. But now we have an actual oil that even does that for you (Valvoline R & P).
#2 Diesel has lubricator in it (diesel fuel injectors need lubrication) so it might be a bit better. Do check for Biodiesel content if you do it these days. Biodiesel runs in diesel engines just fine, but liquid chicken probably won't help flush your engine 🤭.
YOU REALLY CAN CLEAN SLUDGE WITH DIESEL. WHILE I WAS DOING THE HEAD GASKET ON MY 92 COROLLA, I POURED DIESEL INTO THE CYLINDERS AND MOVED THE CYLINDERS UP AND DOWN. REPEATED OVER A WEEK. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND NOTICED VERY MINIMAL OIL BURNING AND MORE COMPRESSION NOW.
Filled it on top with gas. Just pure gas. Let it soke for 24 to 48 hours. Then drain the gas out and fill it up with diesel and let it run for a little. 5 mins max. Then change it with the oil and drive about 50 km then. Change the oil again. Then it will be much much cleaner.
You only need to add 500ml of diesel to normal engine oil and run it for 30 miles or so, then fresh filter and normal oil. Do another flush after 500 miles with 500ml 9f disel again and it should be good. Dropping the sump and cleaning it out will help alot as well.
If he came to my shop and told me I did the last oil change when clearly I did not, his car would be another shop's problem. I'll never lie to my customers and I expect the same back.
@howardwoodruff4087 I totally understand you. I'm my case though, the tone wasn't aggressive more of doubt sounding, "I think you did the oil change last". I did change their otger vehicles oil but made it clear it wasn't this one. 😎 I been servicing their cars for years, he's cool
If you have a slugged up motor, the only thing that you should flush it with is ATF. ATF is formulated with detergents to keep a tranny clean and additives that help seals to remain pliable. If I have a dirty engine, I will often add a quart of ATF 100 miles before the next oil change. Give it a try, it can't hurt. (But diesel sure can!)
3:38 I did that the other day on a car I was working on. Dropped a socket and had to use an endoscope to fish around and find it. Thought I'd never get it out but I finally did.
I recommend using kerosene . I usually use 1/2 quart of kerosene to 4 1/2 quarts of oil 10w 40 and 20w 50 for 8 cylinder engines I used kerosene the first time when I removed the head from a 2012 nissan altima removing the the lifter cap 2 were stuck and I put kerosene on them it dissolved the baked oil instantly and from there I been using it in engines as well a on the oily engines as degreaser and it cleans engines perfectly letting them drip dry
I DRAINED MY DIESEL FILLED TO TOP OF FILLER CAP LEFT IT A DAY DRAINED TO NORMAL LEVEL DROVE 250 MILES LIGHT USE. DRAINED IT OUT REFILLED WITH DIESEL TO NORMAL LEVEL DROVE 200 MMILES LIGHT USE. ROCKERS ALL NICE AND SHINY ENGINE QUIET AND SMOOTH. DRAINED AND PUT AGRICASTROL OIL.
I agree with everyone else here, if the owner lied to you and said you did the last oil change and then you see the sludge, you don't want this man's business because you will be blamed the moment you turned the wrench.
Used to clean my engine with a liter of diesel. Before oilchange I would top the oil up with the diesel let it circulate, leave it over night than warm up the engine with driving around the block with not so high rpm and then change the oil and filter. Was a high milage VW Golf 1.6 Mk1. Worked fine. But I don't know if I would do it with modern diesel...
@frv6610 apologies, I was not clear. I top the old oil up, let it circulate in the engine and the next day carefully warm up the engine to operating temperature, then do the oilchange.
Rather than do an engine flush with some fancy expensive oil additive 'potion', I'd just drain off the oil, put some cheap oil in, change the filter, run it like you stole it for 500 miles or so, then swap out the oil for the better stuff. Oil has cleaning detergents built in, it naturally flushes the engine and helps to reduce carbon and sludge build up. Better still just do more regular oil and filter changes, I change mine every 5k miles, even though the service interval is closer to 20k miles⚠😲😳
When I was stationed in England I got 2.8 Ford motor for my Mustang II. It was so gunked up, was horrorable. I ran 4 quarts of Dex II and one quart of 30wt for about 2 weeks. Changed the oil and took off valve cover, looked like brand new, plus it didn't kill the engine. Was run about 100 miles. 👍👍
I do not recommend flushing an engine with kerosene/diesel. When I was 14, I bought a 1976 Ford Elite that had a 351M engine that seemed to run perfectly. When my dad and I changed the oil, the oil had clumps in it. He got the idea to flush it out with some diesel. So, we put the diesel in it and ran it for a little bit, then drained it and filled it with fresh oil and filter. Shortly after, a rod started knocking and the oil light stayed on at idle. We pulled the engine in my brother's father-in-law's garage and tore the engine down. The bearings were all wiped. Since I was only 14 and knew nothing about rebuilding engines and my dad didn't know much more than I did, we ended up scrapping the car.
Whoever sold it to you had a rod knock, put some damn super thick gear oil in to hide the rod knock, then you guys flushed it & back cones uncle Rodney…… the diesel had nothing to do w the rod knock, I’ve done this several times w several different cars. Never had a problem
Diesel works perfectly, the transmission fluid will break down the sludge. I've used this on motor bike engines and done Diesel flush with water contamination. Like when the adventure bike drowned in a river.
If you want to flush your engine just fill it to the btim with diesel and leave it for a full day dont crank or start the engine just fill it and leave it You drain that diesel the following day and add new oil You want to remove the oil sludge thats clinging to the inside of the engine as most of the moving parts don't sludge up
Or pull spark plugs, disable fuel injection and crank to circulate then let it sit. This man was brave to run an hour, but that engine was borderline about to be a core. A few or days of driving there would have been nothing to salvage.
I've been doing my own oil changes since 1974. With a few exceptions (4000-mile intervals with a '68 and three month intervals with an '86), I've stuck to the 5000 mile rule of thumb. The way I see it, if the oil has turned black, you've waited too long. My '88 Jeep Cherokee lasted 35 years.
I am buying a pretty nice Ford FIesta this weekend. It has a bad engine tick. I fully expect to have to change the engine. The girl who owned it NEVER changed the oil. I suspect the pick up and oil filter are clogged and it is starving for oil. I am going to try this before I start looking for an engine. For a $300 car, I don't think I could go wrong. Hopefully, a good flush and a couple of oil changes, it will get me around for a year or two.
@johnpaulheupel5713 hey, keep me updated. Just be mindful of the viscosity. If you try this use 1qt of 20w50 with the gallon of diesel to thicken it up
Too late for that, less expensive is changing the oil when needed. Some people should have a boat horn or siren installed to alert them for oil changes.
I've been told about ATF for years. High detergents contents. As well as lubrication abilities on top of defoaming properties. I'd trust it for a 30 min drive mixed with oil.
The whole point of a remote filter mount is to give yourself the ability to mount a sufficient size filter in the proper orientation. Not to make it MORE inconvenient. Like mid 90's GM, solved the hard to reach filter with the impossible to remove filter (behind the headlight, in front of the battery). Then they "fixed" the location, but now it was sideways.
Wow that's way too much diesel bro. For that level of soft sludge it be 2 qrts regular engine oil, 2 qrts automatic transmission fluid a d 2 qrts diesel and let that car idle for 30 mins. You could ad a slide rev not exceeding 1500 rpm. Only experience mechanics to attempt these kinds of repairs. It removes the sludge because the sludge was soft. Diesel cannot remove hard sludge or burnt oil in this manner
This would be a perfect test bed for that new Valvoline Restore and Protect. That said, I’ve had great luck using diesel cleaning up an engine on a ‘48 Jeep.
There are a number of excellent motor oils available now that have solvent qualities that are not likely to damage engines having moderate sludge/varnish buildup. Valvoline Restore and Protect is said to remove sludge and carbon buildup within 2 to 4 oil changes of 5000 miles. Castrol sells Ultra Clean and I am sure Royal Purple, Amsol, Penzoil and a host of other brands are on the bandwagon. Using diesel fuel or kerosene or naptha based flushes does seem harsh and potentially damaging to seals not designed to withstand them......but then you are supposed to do an immediate flush with your preferred oil and a new filter a couple of times afterward. In the dim past I did a few flushes on Buick and Chevrolet big block v-8s with 50% standard motor oil and 50% kerosene to great effect with no adverse outcomes. Just change your high grade oil and filter at least twice a year or every 5000 miles and you won't have to resort to flushing your engine.
Actually you're on a very good track with using diesel engine oil to clean out a very heavily sludged engine. It's often referred to as a "high detergent lubricant flush" and as long as you use a high pass 30 micron or higher filter with the same engine oil weight that the engine requires it'll do a fantastic job just have your customer come in after 2500 me and change everything out again and you'll be surprised how quickly diesel oil will clean out that motor.
I've had a few of these nissan/infiniti v6 engines come in looking exactly like this. It's nice working on 80 different cars every day because I know what to steer clear from
Did something like this nearly 40 years ago with transmission fluid, engine soon started rod knocking, my advice ,DON'T. Do a series of low milage oil and filter changes instead of trick fluids and cleaners ,a lot safer.
I dont know how many miles i put on my truck but every 3-4 months i change the oil and twice a year i change the air filter. My truck has 270k miles on it and i would drive it from coast to coast if needed
The owner has KILLED the engine! ......Next comes rod knocking...the end!!! By introducing non-standard fluids, do you think you open yourself up to a liability claim when the rod knocking starts?
Good job man! Definitely on an engine sludged up like that I would be putting stiction modifer additive to keep cleaning and conditioning everything. Nice video!
My old man did this once on a Chevy truck he bought from an old farmer. Small block full of sludge. It wasn’t worth pulling it apart and cleaning it. He ran it for about 30 min to heat up the engine and sludge, drained it and pulled the filter while it was still hot. Did the exact same thing as here, poured in a bunch of diesel and topped it up with some tranny fluid for its detergent properties. Ran it for about 15min, then let it sit for a good hour. The first drain was disgusting. He flushed it twice with the cheapest oil he could find and then filled it and drove it to work and back 20 min of freeway driving plus 10 min of stop and go city everyday for a few years before the trans gave out. He changed the oil in it pretty religiously.
I work at valvoline we collect diesel from fuel filters and use it on the floors 😅 it works but use valvoline oil it’s one that’ll clean a lot of that up
Had a 2020 Nissan Murano come in with a 3.5 L lack of maintenance meaning oil changes would smoke at startup couldn't see oil burning otherwise but was using a quart every 300 MI guy took it to Nissan cuz it was under warranty at 43,000 MI they denied it because of the maintenance issue and quoted him $13,750 to replace motor. Tried doing a few flushes on it never really cleared it up found a gentleman on the internet with a lot of experience with these motors said to pull the valve covers off put new ones on and clean out the cam areas I found set of valve covers on the internet brand new for $125 bucks shipped to the house this did solve the problem now he gets his oil change regularly the problem with the valve covers are once it sludges up the baffles are so close to the top of the valve cover that oil gets stuck and ends up going through the PCV system a BG flush kit will cost you about 300 bucks plus the labor if you're paying for it valve covers for cheap and it only takes about an hour and a half to switch them out the biggest time consumption was cleaning all the sludge out just thought I'd share this experience
Reminds me of an adopted cousin who purchased a new Ford Explorer back in the 1990’s - engine lasted until about 60K when it locked up due to no oil and never changed. My dad sold him a 1988 Chevy half ton with a 4.3L V6 5 speed - it lasted until about 20k miles later without any oil changes. You cannot fix stupid as Ron White would say.
Chemist here, diesel is a good choice for doing what was done, maybe a little less so the bearings don't get a hard time/ add some ATF. However, you need to pull the sump and clean the sludge out of the sump as it will block the pickup and starve the engine of oil. You might get not away with 3000ml before it happens.....
I have found that one full quart of Marvel’s Mystery Oil works really good for engine flushes where there’s excessive carbon buildup and or excessive sludge. I’d have your customer put a quart of Marvel’s in that engine about 100 miles prior to his next oil change.
A Diesel rated Oil like Rotella , Delo , Delvac will Clean a Gas engine They have a Higher Detergent Package then Regular Gas SN rated oils have , Look up the Data Spec for Restore & Protect and you see its Nothing Special on the Detergent Package !!
@DanWright-w7x I agree 100% on the detergent qualities of diesel oil. I think for a gas engine, my first go-to would be the Valvoline product. Lake Speed The oil geek guy has a good video at the Valvoline lab about the restore product.
Fluids are cheap. Change your oil at 3-4,000 miles and you won’t have to pay 10,000 for a new engine. Also this is a perfectly fine procedure just keep in mind it is no solution. If you allow it to get this bad it’s on you. I typically drop the oil pan and clean the oil pump strainer. Again it’s not a solution it’s just temporary.
It takes time to build up, it takes time to remove. I would be using the cheapest crappiest oil in spec and change it every 1000 until it starts coming out clean, throw in your favorite snake oil if it makes you feel better (seafoam mmo etc).
Running the engine on diesel might be the cause for the oil problem you're experiencing now. If diesel, soaking in for 24h and not running it (or only for few! seconds after soaking) would possibly have been better. To be safe, just change oil once and then again 100 miles later. That way you'll also get different revs for the cleaning. Yes, diesel is cheap - but this is a car.
Best way to remove sludge safely is to add 2 to 3 quarts of transmission fluid inside engine and drive it for 20 minutes it will clean it completely out. Transmission fluid is safer than diesel and will do better job.
We are seeing this a lot now, sadly it’s basically down to the engine grade @2.00 minutes, the oil decal ( sticker) states 0w20, (if that was in JLR a Gas (petrol) vehicle, that would be ACEA grade of C5-6) however it’s in a diesel engine it’s most likely it will be a ACEA grade of C2. The root cause is that it’s an euro 6 engine ( meaning it also uses AdBlue which causing other problems to the running of the engine. This grade of oil doesn’t like short trips, I.e. stop/start running, the school run, the shopping run of less than a mile, this is very common on Land Rover/ Range Rovers and Jaguar’s. How to get around this problem by regularly changing the oil, in my case JLR states servicing 15000 miles on the 2.0 engines that we say to our customers is to carry out the main service and then carry out a micro service then replace oil filter and engine oil every 5,000 miles and we haven’t seen one sludge up since. The Gas (petrol) engines are worse the service interval these engines are 24000 miles /24 months which is ridiculous.
Had a customer take his Lexus to the dealer and they did a engine flush and on his way home spun a bearing on the way home.when you flush a engine all that junk goes through the oil pump and the bearings.not a good idea.
@frankwaddle3991 I'm gonna respond to this because I don't think you or others understand how the lubrication system operates.
If there's preexisting damage, it's irreparable. Sludge is superficial, and there are safety mechanisms in place. Such as a strainer, pump to pulverize and filter to filtrate. The oil filter does a great job doing it's job.
These cases you guys bring up are case by case situations and are circumstantial on individual bases and should be treated as such, but yall stories are interesting either for or against this procedure.
I provide evidence in my case with the lack thereof on your and others behalf. I can back up my claim while yall can't. I'm simply not gonna allow you to instill fear with this process due to it meeting the necessary criteria for this.
To add, I don't put the dealer on a pedestal because they're human that make mistakes just like me, thing is they have more heads than my 1.
Stick around for the update, despite my proof not being persuasive, this case doesn't live up to your claim and others of failing. When done properly you can achieve best case on a bad situation. This is a TREATMENT not a SOLUTION
Isn't that what the oil filter is for?
A dealer did a flush?😮
I would say it was a coincidence the flush wouldn't hurt the motor..
So customer neglected car, now blames dealer.
I have using diesel oil for cleaning sludge engines already for 25 years. You should let it soak for hours and let the engine run for intervals of 30 min. If you take your time you’ll get most of the sludge out of there. It works magnificent.
I remember watching my grandfather do that 35 years ago. His Toyota had 600,000 miles when he died, truck was still running.
Diesel was different 35 years ago
Very true.
But still, there are thousands of cars running today from 35 years ago sir 😁
@@jamesevans20 Including the vehicles he worked on...
@@jturner8922 yeah but I’ll bet your Gramps took Jim. I thought so too. I real good care of that thing. Changed oil didn’t beat on it, but it’s your vehicle they can do it.
Amazing how many "experts" are here commenting. They didn't even listen to what you said. You did the best you could under the circumstances (lame owner). Well done, sir!
@@WilliamMeans-u5v lol... 98 percent of people on my channel don't listen 😆
@@partsshooter Its a CellPhone BRAIN DEAD society we are in. Cant hear anything whatsoever.
@@partsshootercustomers always want to cheap out, I’m pushing 60 and had to quit doing vehicles. People love their motorcycles a lot more lol so I stick to them now. Great job brother PS 1/2 the people giving advice on here have never held a wrench and that’s obvious. 🐾✌️🇺🇸
@@partsshooterHuh, what did you say? lol
@@partsshooterI do listen….. Most of them comment on something they don’t know. You keep on WRENCHING BUD
This is why i change my oil and filter every 5-6k, my 2001 car has been in the family since a year old and the results from a recent leak down test were very good, long may it continue!
do oil analysis next time use a good synthetic and i think you’ll be surprised that your oil would last longer. IF the motor is in good shape. i have a number of cars they all get 1 yr change..never had an issue. i keep my cars a long time. i use a bypass filter on my f250 7.3 that’s what over the road truckers use.
@fyrcapnstuff7545 I second this. If the car is well taken care of, 7500-mile intervals are fine. 10,000 miles is the absolute limit. Past that you're actively damaging the engine.
3k mis oil change on my Toyota. Full synthetic, Toyota filter. It has 1.2 million miles, original motor and trans. Your oil is dirty at 3k trust me
@@joeblow8206 I've seen oil lab analysis on several vehicles, and it doesn't make much difference until 7500. At that point, the oil filter needs to be changed anyways. Modern oil outlasts the filters nowadays. I'm sure you've taken great care of your Toyota, but I doubt that changing fluids is the only contributing factor.
Owner of a 1.8T VW here(621,000 miles, original engine and turbo even) I wont even chance 5 or 6k. 3k max, even with full synth 5w40. Doesn't matter if you use FS or a blend, they'll both be equally as filthy at 3k. Try it, drain it at 3, guarantee you your oil is disgusting.
ATF a couple quarts added to clean oil . let engine idle up to temp . Run 20 minutes at temp drain . ATF is so highly detergent will wash internal parts . A company used Jetta instead of diesel . The engine I had to heat pan up so oil would drain . Solid oil . ATF is so highly detergent can wash hands in it . Use some Rotella T engine oil . U will be suprized how clean internal parts will get . Only a suggestion that filter will be full or crap in a couple hundred miles change filter add. Quart n do again . The oil is for hard working engines different weights non synthetic in rotella T4 and what ever weight u want . Been doing this since 1960, then was non detergent oil . So sludge was a constant problem . Too old to do the work any longer . Just passin on what worked real well . Have a good one !
Does really mixing ATF gear oil and cheap oil can flush engine well ? How many times in this car case will it clean like brand new ?
Charles when you say a couple of quarts to oil!.. what size engine are you refering!..I have 4 cylinder motor.
@@john2ndnameHe started by clean oil and bring it up to temps, so I take it drain the old oil, replace one of the new oil quarts for transmission fluid.
So if your engine takes 5qts of oil, during cleaning use 4 and 1 of Automatic transmission fluid. I have done this same steps on VW, Honda, Toyota engines, does work. Just don't leave the trans fluid in, warm up, drive a little and bring it back to drain it out, for new only fresh oil.
@@john2ndnamedepends on oil capacity probably don't want to use more than 25 to40 percent tran fluid to capacity only run at ideal fore ten to 15 minutes at operating temperature (turn heater off completely so engine gets hotter and stays hotter) with fresh oil and tran fluid with new filter and drain rather quickly before oil cools off u might consider changing oil after replacing oil and filter after say 100 to 500 miles of driving. make sure it is wise to flush engine; some manufacturers say don't! do it. ps there are professional flushing machines that auto technician use in a shop u might want to go that route instead especially if it's bad and u value ur cars engine
ATF I can confirm works best I would drain a quart or 2 and add the same to the engine. Do that a few times till you have clean oil come out.
I de-sludged my (somewhat "neglected") GM V6 with a couple of kerosene flushes.
Worked BRILLIANTLY.
How much kerosene?
Bingo!
@@Christopherbeveradd quart to old oil, warmed up. Run 10 mins and change oil.
@@constitutionalUSA thanks! I read the ingredients on off the shelf flushes and it’s basically kerosene diesel and some other stuff
@@Christopherbever I once flushed a Toyota Echo engine using 50/50 oil/kerosene,
idled it for 2 hours and drove it around a bit at low speeds/rpms,
It cleared up piston ring/oil return holes and reduced the oil consumption by at least half.
You have made a tremendous leap in restoring trust in auto technicians. I wish I were in your area.
@@GaryGolladay I wish you were to Gary... I'd love to take your money 😆 🤣 😂 💰
Seriously... thanks man
@@partsshooterLol
There is an old saying that applies here. "Most cars don't just die. They are murdered"
I work at a dealership and one of the ladies in the office owns a 2017 Infiniti QX60, same engine as this one. She didn't change the oil for 30k miles. The sludge i encountered was just as bad as what you saw on this video. Surprised it still ran decent. I just did the oil change, then 2 drain and fills. Then another oil change 1 week later. It definitely cleaned up the inside of the engine. She swore up and down that she's changed her oil on it many times since i worked there. I've been working there for 3 years and not once seen her bring her car in. And proved that she hasn't changed it cuz her oil sticker said it was due at 36k miles and her car had 58k miles.
@RicardoPCGamer thanks for that story. I would've love to have seen the difference yours made.
Good thing in our situation the sludge isn't baked on as some can look like coal chunks.
Let the car run for 30 minutes just on diesel and one quarter of transmission oil is very wrong and can damage the main and rod bearings you should have to do 50% diesel and clean oil and let it ideal for no more then 10 minutes and then do the oil change at 1000 miles or less and flush again and do oil change at 1000 miles again and repeat this process until engine get clean.
On you comment you said at 3000 miles car had oil light flashing that is because slug debris stuck in oil pump and lubrication Channels and blocking the oil transferring holes so that's why you have to do oil change at 500 and max 1000 miles to get rid of the debris .
@@klaidenmorad103 Her infiniti is gone. She traded it in and got a new car.
I hadn’t heard of anyone using diesel to flush engines since the ‘80s! I’m impressed by what a change you made in the engine. Even more that you used 4 diesel to 1 ATF! Think I’ll flush my motor this same way with my next oil change. Thank you!
He never changed the oil in over 30,000 miles…what makes you think he will come back in 3000 miles…that engine is a ticking time bomb!..
You can use diesel and transmission fluid as cleaber but you’ll have to mix it with heavier engine oil like 10w40 or 15w40 so you’re not running too thin of an mixture that will wipe out bearings
That diesel and tranny fluid was probably lubricating better than what was in there before. Should use some Seafoam in that engine for a few oil changes. That stuff works wonders.
@@johnarnold893 Seafoam is mostly diesel fuel
Transmission is sae30. Wouldnt load the engine but idling ok
It'll do the thing, just don't load the engine. AC and everything else off and just idle.
ATF has very little if any detergents or cleaning agents, but quality engine oils do.
Gasoline is a vastly superior solvent than diesel, WD40 and MMO are also useful.
I agree that this does work... I have done it and this was shown to me by my dad.... as you said every case is different. I did have one engine fail afterwards.... Ithe first sludge removal loosened and removed a lot of the sludge but not long after sludge clogged up the screen on the pickup tube and the engine spun a rod bearing. Now I wouldn't do this just once.... I would repeat the sludge removal until the drained fluid is much clearer then clean cheap oil for a couple hours than another oil change. I would strongly recommend that people watching this video have this process done by a reputable mechanic. My dad also warned me not to rev the engine while the cleaning solution is in the engine... he said THAT results in spun or damaged bearings. Maybe less likely with modern engines designed for low viscosity oils... We were doing this on engines made prior to 1980.
The engine you are working on here... I would bet that cheap oil was used by whoever changed it.... no detergent action. I only use high quality synthetic oil now.
Back in the 70's, we did diesel flushes and the end result almost always was a blown motor. Seems the loosened sludge would plug up the intake or the pump after a few hundred miles. Had much better luck with high detergent diesel oil and very frequent oil changes. Even then engine failure happened. The key is to not let them get that bad.
The filters were plugging. Seeing a covered suction screen is the result, not the cause.
comment master. common sense wins today
Jj@@mccass13
Mann and Hummel oil filters are top notch german quality....I am pretty sure, it is the first filter this car was equipped with when new
Nissan filter from factory
I diesel flushed my beater when I bought it. It had 20000 miles without oil change. I just used 0.5 liter diesel and new oil and ran it on high idle for 20 min. Changed oil again. Now it runs like a dream and the previous valve ticking is gone
My dads friend back in the 80s flush his engine with diesel due to a ticking valve that may have sludge. It work after that he was so a mechanic in the army thats where he learn the trade.
One of the best videos I have seen in a very long time here on RUclips amazing work and commentary. This is what a video should be like.❤
You could have driven it around all day with the fuel in the crankcase, then let it drain for an hour. Refill it with fresh oil, drive it for a few days, drain it again. If it shows clean, it should be good for regular month oil changes.
@davidparkin9017 I don't have the balls to do that lol... not mine
Please please look after your hands/skin, use gloves / barrier cream / wash & moisturize. I've been involved in engineering and mechanics since the 70's, regret not having done these things myself, initially, but started in the 90's. That saved me a lot of damage later on. Guys who I know never did this and have wrecked their hands/arms from old oil, grease and coolants. Then vigorous scrubbing afterwards to clean up only exacerbated the issue.
Remember the song 'SunScreen'. That says it all. Do it and thank me in 20 years!
Good content, nice to see someone prepared to be a little 'old school' about cleaning up the inside of the engine before just changing the oil & filter.
Great advice, my Father didn't use gloves ever and died prematurely of brain cancer. Solvents enter your body through the skin and cause all kinds of serious issues.
I wouldn't even touch that thing. I'd send it on and tell the customer, I'm sorry, but its too much of a liability. If I was to work on it, I would need them to sign several waivers.
Wrong... You should donate a brand new engine to the customer
@@GOLTURBO555 Slide your mechanic’s number please, I’m in the market for a free engine!
On an Infiniti, no less!!!😮
Fact
I would turn it away before it blew up in my shop. 😂
I'm surprised this engine still runs as well as it does with all that sludge.
I've been using diesel in the crankcase to keep my engine clean and to flush during oil changes. When I had it at the mechanic I asked them how the engine looked in the crankcase, he stated it's one of the cleanest he's ever seen. Aside from my confirmation bias, it was nice to have a mechanic's input. I discovered this by using my nose to sniff other engine cleaning snake oils.
you don't need to do that if you change your oil when you should.
@@NIGHTMAREuki , Ok. I'm glad you don't know the difference between neglect maintenance vs non neglect maintenance. You still have to clean the engine sometime regardless of regular oil maintenance. The oil does not fully change out when changing oil. Old dirty oil remains after every oil change, requiring something else. Thank you for teaching me though I guess
When I was young the old guys would say dump a quart of kerosene in the old oil, engine heated up, run it, then change the oil.
I once had a fuel pump seal (mechanical) leak in to the block on a several hundred miles trip. That engine was leaking from every gasket when I got home. Must have been a gallon of gas in the oil.
But that engine was clean as a whistle!
@constitutionalUSA nowadays when high pressure fuel pump leaks gas into engine, we get rich codes and misfire!
Gas is more volatile from an ignition standpoint and just won't do in this situation. Diesel overall clean better while lubricating. Gas will evaporate and dissipate unlike diesel when free standing
I never run diesel through modern engines. If you want to get rid of sludge in an engine that was severely neglected, I'd get the BG cleaner package.
As an alternative, you could get engine oil with a higher calcium content (calcium indicates higher content of detergents) and run two or three consecutive oil changes with 500 mile intervals.
Filling in 4 quarts of diesel and one quart of ATF poses a significant risk of bearing damage, even at idle.
I could be wrong but I don’t think this engine is particularly modern
@@aurorayoru5333 with "modern", I refer to anything within the last 30-40 years 😉
I mean engines that rely heavily on modern oil properties due to being constructed with more complicated technology like 4-valve, double overhead cams, variable valve timing, reduced bearing material and whatnot.
And whatnot, ...for example, now we see a bicycle chain in the distribution and another as fragile for the oil pump.
@@alfonsoaslbox4121 that too
I've got a 2008 car with a 1.5L diesel in it that's done maybe 150,000 miles and I wouldn't do this flush on even that car while it's running fine.
I personally use fuel oil, and has more lubricating properties built into it. Been doing it since I was 15, I am now 68 never had a problem.
This works.
I accidentally bought a suburban that had been neglected and had sludge. Filled it up with diesel. Ran it for about 20 mins. Emptied it. Filled with clean oil with about half quart of diesel. Drove it for a bit. Drained. Filled with clean oil.
It lasted for about another 1.5 years until I was run off the road in a snowstorm and totaled it.
That engine has probably lost half it's life from running that sludge.
yup that IS the problem.
And the other half it’s life running diesel.
I have a 2017 pathfinder bought used with 47k miles in 2021. I used mobile one 0w-30 in it recommended by the manual. Oil was always vomming out extra dirty and smelling burnt. Also would have bad valve noise on startup and after driving down a 1/4mule driveway. I ran liquimoly 5w40 for two 3000mile oil changes and then swiched to shell rotella T6 5w40 @7000miles. Top end noise has greatly improved and oil is much clearer and does not smell at changes. Also the manual says you need to wait 10 or more minutes after running the engine for the dip stick to be accurate. Guess the oil needs to drain back into tthe pan.
I've never seen this done personally but my brother talked about this when I ws a teenager in the 1960's. It isn't an attempt to fix anything. It is an attempt remove the sludge in order to allow the engine to last as long as possible.There were a number of approaches. The approach as I remember was to use regular oil with the diesel and flush 3 to 4 times replacing the filter each time. In some cases the engine would be filled completely with diesel and allowed to soak a day or two without running the motor then drained off prior to filling and running ther engine a few times. One needs to remember that modern filter systems do not filter all the oil that is circulating. Once the oil pressure reaches a certain point the spring in the filter is compressed and the oil will bypass the filtration membrane...this makes it important to lower the idle rpms as much as possible which in the old days was fairly easy to do but not so much with electronically controlled modern systems.
@jchavins I understand where you coming from with you logic about oil filter and bypass.
I have used the trick of draining 3/4 of my oil, then topping up with diesel, and running the car for 10-20 miles. Then draining the thinner oil when hot, before filling up with 100% oil. This helps drain more old oil out of the engine, and clean up the parts a bit.
The owner of that car should be reported to the SPCA Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Automobiles.....
What I used to do was a 5-minute flush with 1 quart of engine flush. From what I understand, back in the old days, they would put in a quart of kerosene (it was inexpensive back then), but diesel is pretty close to kerosene. When I got a really really bad one, like that one, I would just use engine oil, and change it at about 500 miles, then one more time at 500 miles, and then I would encourage a couple more early oil changes... before going to once every 3,000 miles. I wouldn't flush an engine that bad; I'd keep changing the oil early until it was reasonably clean before I would use an engine flush.
Smart man! There is one and only one engine flush that is actually safe for the engine, and that's engine oil with nothing added. But now we have an actual oil that even does that for you (Valvoline R & P).
#2 Diesel has lubricator in it (diesel fuel injectors need lubrication) so it might be a bit better.
Do check for Biodiesel content if you do it these days. Biodiesel runs in diesel engines just fine, but liquid chicken probably won't help flush your engine 🤭.
Good job sir!! Trying to unscrew what others screwed is no small task!
YOU REALLY CAN CLEAN SLUDGE WITH DIESEL. WHILE I WAS DOING THE HEAD GASKET ON MY 92 COROLLA, I POURED DIESEL INTO THE CYLINDERS AND MOVED THE CYLINDERS UP AND DOWN. REPEATED OVER A WEEK. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND NOTICED VERY MINIMAL OIL BURNING AND MORE COMPRESSION NOW.
PLEASE STOP SHOUTING😢
WHAT?!!!
Filled it on top with gas. Just pure gas. Let it soke for 24 to 48 hours. Then drain the gas out and fill it up with diesel and let it run for a little. 5 mins max. Then change it with the oil and drive about 50 km then. Change the oil again. Then it will be much much cleaner.
Its a bad idea
@@fritzsnickerz855try it first. Then speak
You only need to add 500ml of diesel to normal engine oil and run it for 30 miles or so, then fresh filter and normal oil. Do another flush after 500 miles with 500ml 9f disel again and it should be good. Dropping the sump and cleaning it out will help alot as well.
If he came to my shop and told me I did the last oil change when clearly I did not, his car would be another shop's problem. I'll never lie to my customers and I expect the same back.
@howardwoodruff4087 I totally understand you. I'm my case though, the tone wasn't aggressive more of doubt sounding, "I think you did the oil change last". I did change their otger vehicles oil but made it clear it wasn't this one. 😎
I been servicing their cars for years, he's cool
My mechanic is so honest that he says “the last mechanic to work on this was an idiot.” It was him.
If you have a slugged up motor, the only thing that you should flush it with is ATF. ATF is formulated with detergents to keep a tranny clean and additives that help seals to remain pliable. If I have a dirty engine, I will often add a quart of ATF 100 miles before the next oil change. Give it a try, it can't hurt. (But diesel sure can!)
3:38 I did that the other day on a car I was working on. Dropped a socket and had to use an endoscope to fish around and find it. Thought I'd never get it out but I finally did.
I recommend using kerosene . I usually use 1/2 quart of kerosene to 4 1/2 quarts of oil 10w 40 and 20w 50 for 8 cylinder engines I used kerosene the first time when I removed the head from a 2012 nissan altima removing the the lifter cap 2 were stuck and I put kerosene on them it dissolved the baked oil instantly and from there I been using it in engines as well a on the oily engines as degreaser and it cleans engines perfectly letting them drip dry
I DRAINED MY DIESEL
FILLED TO TOP OF FILLER CAP
LEFT IT A DAY
DRAINED TO NORMAL LEVEL
DROVE 250 MILES LIGHT USE.
DRAINED IT OUT REFILLED WITH DIESEL TO NORMAL LEVEL
DROVE 200 MMILES LIGHT USE.
ROCKERS ALL NICE AND SHINY
ENGINE QUIET AND SMOOTH.
DRAINED AND PUT AGRICASTROL OIL.
I agree with everyone else here, if the owner lied to you and said you did the last oil change and then you see the sludge, you don't want this man's business because you will be blamed the moment you turned the wrench.
Used to clean my engine with a liter of diesel. Before oilchange I would top the oil up with the diesel let it circulate, leave it over night than warm up the engine with driving around the block with not so high rpm and then change the oil and filter. Was a high milage VW Golf 1.6 Mk1. Worked fine. But I don't know if I would do it with modern diesel...
@@momoloo141 why not use it with modern diesel today?
Did you fill to full with diesel or you used only 1 litre, were you not worried that less than full could cause wear on the engine?
@partsshooter because it's mixed with organic diesel and I don't trust it. Maybe it doesn't matter, just a gut feeling
@frv6610 apologies, I was not clear. I top the old oil up, let it circulate in the engine and the next day carefully warm up the engine to operating temperature, then do the oilchange.
@momoloo141 you're fine, I understood you. Just wanted to know your thoughts on modern day fuels and this procedure
Rather than do an engine flush with some fancy expensive oil additive 'potion', I'd just drain off the oil, put some cheap oil in, change the filter, run it like you stole it for 500 miles or so, then swap out the oil for the better stuff.
Oil has cleaning detergents built in, it naturally flushes the engine and helps to reduce carbon and sludge build up.
Better still just do more regular oil and filter changes, I change mine every 5k miles, even though the service interval is closer to 20k miles⚠😲😳
Which car has 20k miles oil change interval recommended?
most new cars in europe... around 15-20k miles
@@Elrafau, I believe Europeans use the kilometres instead of miles, 1.6km to a mile.
@@mohammadshamsuddin9978 i know that ;) but said in miles cause american mind doesnt work as good as european
Nice job on your camera work, narration.
I enjoyed the video.
Should refill with diesel engine oil , has detergent in it ?
When I was stationed in England I got 2.8 Ford motor for my Mustang II. It was so gunked up, was horrorable. I ran 4 quarts of Dex II and one quart of 30wt for about 2 weeks. Changed the oil and took off valve cover, looked like brand new, plus it didn't kill the engine. Was run about 100 miles. 👍👍
I do not recommend flushing an engine with kerosene/diesel. When I was 14, I bought a 1976 Ford Elite that had a 351M engine that seemed to run perfectly. When my dad and I changed the oil, the oil had clumps in it. He got the idea to flush it out with some diesel. So, we put the diesel in it and ran it for a little bit, then drained it and filled it with fresh oil and filter. Shortly after, a rod started knocking and the oil light stayed on at idle. We pulled the engine in my brother's father-in-law's garage and tore the engine down. The bearings were all wiped. Since I was only 14 and knew nothing about rebuilding engines and my dad didn't know much more than I did, we ended up scrapping the car.
The pickup probably got blocked.
There's no other explanation
@@CableWrestler I don't remember us finding anything in the pickup.
@@T_Burd_75 you should have put more oil in and dropped it again
@@leeyo5494 Coulda, shoulda, woulda...
Whoever sold it to you had a rod knock, put some damn super thick gear oil in to hide the rod knock, then you guys flushed it & back cones uncle Rodney…… the diesel had nothing to do w the rod knock, I’ve done this several times w several different cars. Never had a problem
Diesel works perfectly, the transmission fluid will break down the sludge. I've used this on motor bike engines and done Diesel flush with water contamination. Like when the adventure bike drowned in a river.
This engine really clatters for sure. Seems the flush is working fella.
using this technique learned it from my father long time good job
Good job! Its a real shame car owners neglect this very basic thing so often.
That Chocolate syrup is meant to lubricate the oil cap and dip stick, totally fine!
Will Vaseline work next time?
@@partsshootermaybe that guy was talking about sodomy lubricant
Add a quart of transmission fluid and run it for an hour or more and it cleans the engine nicely.
If you want to flush your engine just fill it to the btim with diesel and leave it for a full day dont crank or start the engine just fill it and leave it
You drain that diesel the following day and add new oil
You want to remove the oil sludge thats clinging to the inside of the engine as most of the moving parts don't sludge up
Or pull spark plugs, disable fuel injection and crank to circulate then let it sit. This man was brave to run an hour, but that engine was borderline about to be a core. A few or days of driving there would have been nothing to salvage.
I've been doing my own oil changes since 1974. With a few exceptions (4000-mile intervals with a '68 and three month intervals with an '86), I've stuck to the 5000 mile rule of thumb. The way I see it, if the oil has turned black, you've waited too long. My '88 Jeep Cherokee lasted 35 years.
I would of passed on that job lol. You're a brave man
@@jordanjay1479 It's just a flush... I deal with more complex stuff anyway. You'll see that in my archive
I am buying a pretty nice Ford FIesta this weekend. It has a bad engine tick. I fully expect to have to change the engine. The girl who owned it NEVER changed the oil. I suspect the pick up and oil filter are clogged and it is starving for oil. I am going to try this before I start looking for an engine. For a $300 car, I don't think I could go wrong. Hopefully, a good flush and a couple of oil changes, it will get me around for a year or two.
@johnpaulheupel5713 hey, keep me updated. Just be mindful of the viscosity. If you try this use 1qt of 20w50 with the gallon of diesel to thicken it up
I’ve done this before with diesel no issues.
The correct thing to do is dismantle the entire engine and wash it in a industrial engine wash unit
Too late for that, less expensive is changing the oil when needed. Some people should have a boat horn or siren installed to alert them for oil changes.
If we had to wait until everything was perfect we'd never get anything done.
I'm sure if you prepay to have him tear out that engine and put it back in probably around $4500 he'll be more than happy to do that
why not push in a high power hose and spray it clean and then fill up and drain?
I've been told about ATF for years. High detergents contents. As well as lubrication abilities on top of defoaming properties. I'd trust it for a 30 min drive mixed with oil.
The whole point of a remote filter mount is to give yourself the ability to mount a sufficient size filter in the proper orientation. Not to make it MORE inconvenient. Like mid 90's GM, solved the hard to reach filter with the impossible to remove filter (behind the headlight, in front of the battery). Then they "fixed" the location, but now it was sideways.
@andrewb8548 what in the world are you referring to or talking about? Where in the video is this even a topic?
I’ve done a flush like this with kerosene. Adds years to the engine. I think it’s good preventative maintenance on engines approaching 200k
Wow that's way too much diesel bro. For that level of soft sludge it be 2 qrts regular engine oil, 2 qrts automatic transmission fluid a d 2 qrts diesel and let that car idle for 30 mins. You could ad a slide rev not exceeding 1500 rpm. Only experience mechanics to attempt these kinds of repairs. It removes the sludge because the sludge was soft. Diesel cannot remove hard sludge or burnt oil in this manner
This would be a perfect test bed for that new Valvoline Restore and Protect. That said, I’ve had great luck using diesel cleaning up an engine on a ‘48 Jeep.
There are a number of excellent motor oils available now that have solvent qualities that are not likely to damage engines having moderate sludge/varnish buildup. Valvoline Restore and Protect is said to remove sludge and carbon buildup within 2 to 4 oil changes of 5000 miles. Castrol sells Ultra Clean and I am sure Royal Purple, Amsol, Penzoil and a host of other brands are on the bandwagon. Using diesel fuel or kerosene or naptha based flushes does seem harsh and potentially damaging to seals not designed to withstand them......but then you are supposed to do an immediate flush with your preferred oil and a new filter a couple of times afterward. In the dim past I did a few flushes on Buick and Chevrolet big block v-8s with 50% standard motor oil and 50% kerosene to great effect with no adverse outcomes. Just change your high grade oil and filter at least twice a year or every 5000 miles and you won't have to resort to flushing your engine.
New Valvoline Restore and Protect will clean it quite well without adding any solvents. Might have to change the filter before the oil.
That looks yummy. Whoever owns this car, I`m sure their home is super clean and tidy.
Actually you're on a very good track with using diesel engine oil to clean out a very heavily sludged engine.
It's often referred to as a "high detergent lubricant flush" and as long as you use a high pass 30 micron or higher filter with the same engine oil weight that the engine requires it'll do a fantastic job just have your customer come in after 2500 me and change everything out again and you'll be surprised how quickly diesel oil will clean out that motor.
I've had a few of these nissan/infiniti v6 engines come in looking exactly like this. It's nice working on 80 different cars every day because I know what to steer clear from
Bg extreme flush is your only man . 2 5 litre bottles one flush and one rinsed . If the dirt falls to fast it blocks the pick up end of engine
Did something like this nearly 40 years ago with transmission fluid, engine soon started rod knocking, my advice ,DON'T. Do a series of low milage oil and filter changes instead of trick fluids and cleaners ,a lot safer.
@@LJJKD1947 by your logic, you're saying this engine will be broken in 3 months?
Brother, modern engine bearings are FARRR different material thant he 70/80s
@@partsshooter I assume that diesel engine flush would have ruined the bearings
@@aurorayoru5333 you ASSume
The best thing to cut a filter open is a wood chisel . Does not add cuttings so does not contaminate what your looking for.
I doubt the previous mechanic actually changed the oil. There’s no way that that much sludge for 20,000 miles.
I dont know how many miles i put on my truck but every 3-4 months i change the oil and twice a year i change the air filter. My truck has 270k miles on it and i would drive it from coast to coast if needed
You should try Valvoline Restore and Protect. I think that will do the job for you in three to four low milage oil changes.
You think.... why waste 150 on oil changes when diesel cost $4 gallon?
@ good point.
The owner has KILLED the engine! ......Next comes rod knocking...the end!!! By introducing non-standard fluids, do you think you open yourself up to a liability claim when the rod knocking starts?
Good job man! Definitely on an engine sludged up like that I would be putting stiction modifer additive to keep cleaning and conditioning everything. Nice video!
My old man did this once on a Chevy truck he bought from an old farmer. Small block full of sludge. It wasn’t worth pulling it apart and cleaning it. He ran it for about 30 min to heat up the engine and sludge, drained it and pulled the filter while it was still hot. Did the exact same thing as here, poured in a bunch of diesel and topped it up with some tranny fluid for its detergent properties. Ran it for about 15min, then let it sit for a good hour. The first drain was disgusting. He flushed it twice with the cheapest oil he could find and then filled it and drove it to work and back 20 min of freeway driving plus 10 min of stop and go city everyday for a few years before the trans gave out. He changed the oil in it pretty religiously.
I work at valvoline we collect diesel from fuel filters and use it on the floors 😅 it works but use valvoline oil it’s one that’ll clean a lot of that up
@@laststruggle4533 🤔🤔🤔🤔 so you are insinuating diesel clean better than valvoline ? 🤣🤣
Had a 2020 Nissan Murano come in with a 3.5 L lack of maintenance meaning oil changes would smoke at startup couldn't see oil burning otherwise but was using a quart every 300 MI guy took it to Nissan cuz it was under warranty at 43,000 MI they denied it because of the maintenance issue and quoted him $13,750 to replace motor. Tried doing a few flushes on it never really cleared it up found a gentleman on the internet with a lot of experience with these motors said to pull the valve covers off put new ones on and clean out the cam areas I found set of valve covers on the internet brand new for $125 bucks shipped to the house this did solve the problem now he gets his oil change regularly the problem with the valve covers are once it sludges up the baffles are so close to the top of the valve cover that oil gets stuck and ends up going through the PCV system a BG flush kit will cost you about 300 bucks plus the labor if you're paying for it valve covers for cheap and it only takes about an hour and a half to switch them out the biggest time consumption was cleaning all the sludge out just thought I'd share this experience
Add a bottle of Seafoam to every oil change and a new filter. Then do the 3,000 mile or 3 month routine for a year, that should slowly clean it up.
Reminds me of an adopted cousin who purchased a new Ford Explorer back in the 1990’s - engine lasted until about 60K when it locked up due to no oil and never changed. My dad sold him a 1988 Chevy half ton with a 4.3L V6 5 speed - it lasted until about 20k miles later without any oil changes. You cannot fix stupid as Ron White would say.
@@sartainja I enjoy you guys stories
Chemist here, diesel is a good choice for doing what was done, maybe a little less so the bearings don't get a hard time/ add some ATF. However, you need to pull the sump and clean the sludge out of the sump as it will block the pickup and starve the engine of oil. You might get not away with 3000ml before it happens.....
💯
Absolutely. Drop the oil pan and clean the pickup. Obviously if the owner isn’t going to pay for that…it’s not going to happen.
I have found that one full quart of Marvel’s Mystery Oil works really good for engine flushes where there’s excessive carbon buildup and or excessive sludge.
I’d have your customer put a quart of Marvel’s in that engine about 100 miles prior to his next oil change.
Valvoline Restore & Protect. I hear very positive things about it for deposits but for sludge?
A Diesel rated Oil like Rotella , Delo , Delvac will Clean a Gas engine They have a Higher Detergent Package then Regular Gas SN rated oils have , Look up the Data Spec for Restore & Protect and you see its Nothing Special on the Detergent Package !!
@DanWright-w7x I agree 100% on the detergent qualities of diesel oil. I think for a gas engine, my first go-to would be the Valvoline product. Lake Speed The oil geek guy has a good video at the Valvoline lab about the restore product.
Fluids are cheap. Change your oil at 3-4,000 miles and you won’t have to pay 10,000 for a new engine. Also this is a perfectly fine procedure just keep in mind it is no solution. If you allow it to get this bad it’s on you. I typically drop the oil pan and clean the oil pump strainer. Again it’s not a solution it’s just temporary.
I wouldn't go over half n half due to oil thinning. Also, don't stress it by driving it. Ask my #3 rod bearing why that is.😢
It takes time to build up, it takes time to remove. I would be using the cheapest crappiest oil in spec and change it every 1000 until it starts coming out clean, throw in your favorite snake oil if it makes you feel better (seafoam mmo etc).
Dmso flush will help this one
Running the engine on diesel might be the cause for the oil problem you're experiencing now. If diesel, soaking in for 24h and not running it (or only for few! seconds after soaking) would possibly have been better. To be safe, just change oil once and then again 100 miles later. That way you'll also get different revs for the cleaning. Yes, diesel is cheap - but this is a car.
Im not sure i would run diesel with that thin of an oil, maybe a little bit thicker, but this definitely works well.
I run all my engines on rotela from day 1 , no sludge build up at all , oil changes at 6000 miles .
Best way to remove sludge safely is to add 2 to 3 quarts of transmission fluid inside engine and drive it for 20 minutes it will clean it completely out. Transmission fluid is safer than diesel and will do better job.
@lotuslotus718 not true...
If that's the case, why do shops use diesel as parts cleaner and not transmission fluid?
What bore scope you using??
Depstech camera 7 inch screen
Would like to see valvoline restore and protect used on this.
We are seeing this a lot now, sadly it’s basically down to the engine grade @2.00 minutes, the oil decal ( sticker) states 0w20, (if that was in JLR a Gas (petrol) vehicle, that would be ACEA grade of C5-6) however it’s in a diesel engine it’s most likely it will be a ACEA grade of C2. The root cause is that it’s an euro 6 engine ( meaning it also uses
AdBlue which causing other problems to the running of the engine.
This grade of oil doesn’t like short trips, I.e. stop/start running, the school run, the shopping run of less than a mile, this is very common on Land Rover/ Range Rovers and Jaguar’s. How to get around this problem by regularly changing the oil, in my case JLR states servicing 15000 miles on the 2.0 engines that we say to our customers is to carry out the main service and then carry out a micro service then replace oil filter and engine oil every 5,000 miles and we haven’t seen one sludge up since. The Gas (petrol) engines are worse the service interval these engines are 24000 miles /24 months which is ridiculous.
Did like you several times, all ok .
No damage whatsoever