Hey Steve, not sure if you’ll see this since it’s an old video but I’m really glad you started giving out informational videos. It seems like when I watch you explain something I really understand the concept better. Thanks from Michigan!
An excellent video, and loving this channel! To clarify some things, the bore in the block is round, because as said it is not possible to hone an oval. It is the bearing that is eccentric, and a significant reason for this is to establish the conditions for good hydrodynamic lubrication, with an added benefit of the eccentric shell assisting with deformation of the main structure under load.
I'm from the auto mechanic guild. Steve, yes givin' away the store! A proper mechanic is a natural bs'r. You should never just tell anyone how to do the magic. They loose respect. Talk about demons and demigods. Tell them about the runes. Speak in a foreign language, but never tell anyone how you do what you do unless you are making mondo cash directly from them. You are givin' it away.❤😂 and thanks!
The best steel rod in the business right there, Oliver max billet series. That is the only steel rod I run in my 540 f3-136 bbc and they ain't never failed me..
I'm glad that you stated your opinion about plastigage. It's OK for building a mild street engine, IF you use it correctly and carefully. There are a few things you can do that will give you a bogus clearance result.
OLÁ STEEVE 14/08/24 ÓTIMO vídeo. Na língua inglesa não comento por estar muitos anos sem contato auditivo. Sua observação esta correta quanto ao perfil das bronzinas da maioria dos motores. Atualmente as alterações feitas no sistema de lubrificação e as modificações efetuadas no perfil das bronzinas permitem a fabricação destas em maquinário e sistemas mais baratos tiveram a adição de projetos onde falta o conhecimento das particularidades do conjunto a ser lubrificado torna os motores e suas peças DEFICIENTES. Sua explanação é o sistema CORRETO. Abraços Roberto Udo Krapf
Steve...As a engine builder myself for drags and pulling trucks I respect your engines when we have to go up against one, so when I found this channel today it was a FAST hell yeah, I have to subscribe, but after all of the commercials in the first video, then SIX in the first 8mins of a 10min video in the second....I'm out and off of here. Big HP to yeah!!
bearing clearances have almost always been .001 per inch. SBC chevy lg rod .0021 clearance. As you said clearances go up from mild to wild builds. A little loose is always better than a little tight. LOL. Enjoying your videos even tho I'm a machinist who works on performance engines only.
Steve, you also could have talked a little bit about the crush of the bearing. The clearance that the rod and main bearings have to hold the bearing securely to prevent the shell from spinning. Nice info, thanks.
The gauge has a calibration tolerance of at least +/- 0.0001 in. Maybe twice that. Also, holding that gauge horizontal instead of vertical can increase the uncertainty in the gauge's measurement. Tipping the block and getting the gauge upright will help dial in that extra tenth or two of reliable measurement. Awesome video! I keep learning more and more.
@@sexyfacenation In precision measurement, I've found many machinists say "tenth" when referring to a ten-thousandth. Because everything they do is to the right of the decimal, they just slang tenth for that fourth place. Struck me as odd at first to be so concerned with proper/precise numbers, but then not use proper terms. But if the whole industry speaks the same, that's what really matters.
Educational and informational Advice..I like this guy he knows his shit.....I have built only a few motors..a Pontiac 406.18 year's ago ..still running strong today..and a Chevy 360..about four year's ago..and yes it's still running strong as well..I drag race both..spray both motors as well...200 shot..I did them both myself..I'm proud of them..I took my time rebuilding them...but not to this extent..lol...the Pontiac is about 420 hp.NA.the Chevy is about 550 hp....NA....... Not the 1,000s of hp of this guy's builds but respectable in my book....my 66 tempest runs 12.0 s on motor...and my 78 Grand LeMans half backed big tire car runs 10s...on motor...so yeah I'm pretty proud of my work on both..there both still alive and running great...so I must have done something right..lol..👍💪💯,,,,,,
I see more trouble with the "how" they have been fitted... Needs to explain what happens when the gaps are not "square" to each other and also when guys do not open up the second ring more than the top ring..
I run four thousands per inch of bore, get them ten thousands over and grind your end gap.Your oil control rings are directional, not the retainer but the top and bottom rings, you check them for direction by squeezing the open ends together and you see it go up or down, you want them to point up,which scavenges,going down expanding wipes the walls. I have done this on air cooled as I am a motorcycle tech, and not so much on water cool, to but enough to say four is safe, how hot is it going to run, not duration would be a important factor, if everything is proper their is an operating temp for water jobs, bikes duration would be a factor, like mean temperature, and movement or lack of air going thru cooling fins, this is why their is no set formula, but it works, measure your end gap in the bore, the ring end gaps will be way bigger then you think twenty-five? on a four inch bore I would set them up at sixteen, Staggered the rings I do, but it's just feel good, rings move period, they are pinned on two strokes not because they rev, it's so the gaps don't go near the ports and snag and snap, cuz they move,next tear down look for yourself,,like I said , for the feel good,so when you ask me if I Staggered the rings to reduce compression loss,I can look you in the eyes and say. Yep.....since I am writing this book I would like to to mention that fred flintstone is the only one who pounds feet what you want to say is foot pounds.Then you will at least sound like you know what you be yapping about.it makes me want to pound their face, this drunk biker is fading fast so good morning men, put it in your pipe or put it to use peace
This is great to know. I'm not building a Motor. But I still wanna know this. It's just the kind of real world experience I like to be knowledgeable on...
That's for sure....guys know his stuff don't he...man I'm glad I found this channel.👍. Very interesting to see how these high hp motors have suck big clearences ....and why......easy to understand and explains it so we can comprehend it...💪.....now we just needs a few 1,00,000 dollars in tools, a big shop to do it...lol..that's why he makes the big bucks and big hp...that lives for a while...👍💪💯,
How would one get a clearance of .0060-.0070 of rod bearing clearance? Custom bearings? Sanding the bearing? Grinding the crank? Cant resize most aluminum rods because they have the dowel so the bearing doesn’t spin? Very interested
Hi Steve, if I was 40 years younger I would be pounding on your door for a job. It would have meant a lot to me to be around a person like you with both knowledge and great temperament. BTW, what was the paint used for the white engine block in the video ?
Went down to the 2022 Autorama on Friday; I saw a neat 4 door '64 Fairlane down there. It was a fairly "tame" blue color, and when you look into the engine compartment, there's this pretty lookin' piece of hardware, plumbing of some sort going every which way, with the letters SMX on top. Only one other car there caught my eye, a '71 or '72 Buick Skylark, LS, with the (big) turbo located where the battery usually goes--its installation was so sanitary, it looked like it came that way, from the factory--it even had a tricked out THM400, with a Reid case--($!!!). That Fairlane looks like it's goin' 100 mph, sittin' still! You should see where the driver sits--weight transfer complete, upon launch! lol
Hi! I have a question in general: When I do check my crankshaft bearing clearances (torqueing them down and measuring without a crank in the block) can I re-use those bearings when I finally mount the crank? Or do I have to buy a whole new set of crank and rod bearings? My friend said after toqueing down crank caps and rod caps the bearings get crushed and cannot be re-used. On the internet I found only one reference which said that they only get crushed "elastically", so they would do get back into their origin shape after loosening the caps.... Marlon
So when a machine shop line hones the mains on the block, how do they keep things from being round? Or is the non-roundness all in the bearings themselves?
Thanks Steve. That white block looks pimp! I listened with ear buds, and over the whole vid it sounds like something was rubbing over the mike. Can you please do a vid on thermal efficiencies of a traditional head, vs yours where the coolant passaging is separate to the block? I think is your smx heads?
I would invest in a gauge block set, and a gauge block holder to set your bore gauges. I see you using the mic. to check the bore gauge, that's not a good way to check/set the bore gauge. I have a degree in machining and was a machine shop QC. Manager.
This video implies all thats already been done in the crank grinding/polishing process. Here, the journal, whatever it mics after being machined is the datum he is going off. he is measuring the difference between the journal and bearing. His mic could be calibrated to anything, it could be calibrated .01 off, you could calibrate it to say 1.1” with a 1” joe block.. regardless of what the mic says and what mic you use, if you zero the bore gauge to the mic right after measuring the journal, you will ALWAYS get the same clearance, in this case his .0026. Naturally of course your mics should be set to a standard before even grinding the crank, but thats irrelevant in this video
@@benjaminrutledge7675 " if you zero the bore gauge to the mic right after measuring the journal, you will ALWAYS get the same clearance, in this case his .0026." You're dealing with a tight tolerance .0026". Your precision is one ten thousandths of an inch. No, it's not going to always be the same dimension when you try to transfer that dimension to the bore gauge with a precision of .0001. In a professional shop, you'll always see bore gauges with their gauge block set that was used to calibrate the bore gauge. "His mic could be calibrated to anything, it could be calibrated .01 off, you could calibrate it to say 1.1” with a 1” joe block.." Why on Earth would anyone do that? You're just asking for problems. All of your Mics should be set to their zero point. You should check your mic's calibration every day before you use the mic. Every year a gauge reliability test should be done by the inspector (you) on all your inspection equipment. "Naturally of course your mics should be set to a standard before even grinding the crank, but thats irrelevant in this video" Crankshaft diameters have a tolerance of .0005 -.0001. In a professional shop, you'd never use a mic to measure something with that tight of a tolerance. You'd use a snap gauge Go/No-Go, dial, or digital. "If you're guessing you're not measuring."
Alright petal, dont get all snowflakey on me, i didnt mean to strike a nerve, im genuinely sorry about that. I was exagerrating to prove a point.. the point being, everythjng you talk about doing its assumed has already been done and we are now comparing whatever the journal ended up at to the hole. You talk about using a transfer measuring tool (snap gauges) which need micing anyway and create a variable, yet have a beef with using a mic as a transfer tool to set a bore gauge after micing the journal. Obviously everyone sends their stuff for calibration yearly.. obviously youre doing all that before getting the journals nominal. Obviously this guy knows how to set bearing clearances without needing your joe block suggestions, obviously his mics arrived with standards like everyone elses. At our ISO certified shop we use sunnens own dial gauge setting fixtures, we have things like a keyence, CMMs and a faro.. much better resolution to measure one tenth with than the *cough* snap gauges and go/nogo pins youre using. But its ok, if thats the caliber of work you do, i guess thats as good as youll ever be.
@@benjaminrutledge7675 wow guys this is all above my pay grade for sure..lol....😂😅😅😂🤣,,,his is building race motors not a rocket ship for NASA.....all motors destroy themselves..it the nature of the beast....so a hundred of a thousands there or here really don't matter ...they are going to blow up eventually...it's just part of the game ,after all they make new parts every day...not like it's the last motor on Earth....these motors are pushed and beat on....there gunna go sooner or later....he dose his best to make it later rather then sooner......and by the looks of his shop he's doing pretty dam good work....or he wouldn't be where he is today...his reputation speaks for itself.....the end...
@@topfuel29channel the size doesn't mater, his mic could be dropped 20 times for all that it matters. It is the difference between he measured value and the dial bore indicator that matters. Not the actual measurement values overall.
Steve, I just got my block back from the shop. Should i wash the block first then measure bearings, then final assemble or should I wait to wash before final assy?
on bearing clearance the vertical is what you are measuring to get into spec I understand that, but mixing std bearings and +.001 or -.001 bearings obviously leaves .0005 extra lip on each side I assume that doesn't matter because of the extra room that is machined into the rod and and mains correct? I have also heard that the difference between bolts and studs can cause a .001 looser or tighter tolerance due to extra clamping force of the stud. studs being tighter, bolts being looser is this correct? I love your videos I try and listen to every detail. thank you.
One thing you should mention so people do not get confused is that the actual housing bore in your block or connecting rod should be perfectly round, it's just the bearings are made to not be round.
@@chrisburnsed6349 incorrect. The bores in the block and the rods are round. Why do you think the specs call for those bores to not be out of round. You are just as confused as everyone else.
@@cncit Yes I am aware, I know they are supposed to be round, I build motors for a living myself. Anything I find over .0003" out of round I have to correct.
Thank you sir 3yrs later for the tech tips. Gonna go figure out why this dang sbc wants to plasti at .0015. After market everything but block would be my guess. May report back with findings.
Isn't it true also that the reason the bearings are elliptical instead of round is because that is how the oil is actually moved 'around' the space? Something about bearing eccentricity ?
Hey Steve, scott here from New Zealand. Love your work! Could you please put up a video about valve train geometry and the rocker arm sweep on the valve tip, (when you have time) There’s many videos on RUclips and seems everyone has there way. Im setting up a gm 400 chev, afr220 Heads, solid roller cam, .620 lift, sportsman lifters and pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers. The confusion I have is what way is right, the 90 degree at half lift theory or the set up to the middle of the valve stem theory. In my mind the 90 degree at half lift is the best because that’s getting the most out of the cam and the correct lift from the cam. I’ve set mine up so it’s 90 degrees at half lift, but when I do that, the sweep is around 30 thousandths, which seems fine but it’s in the the 1/3 part of the valve stem. Not in the middle. I guess the main question I have Is, is this ok, or will this load my valve guides? And if it’s not ok, do i need different roller rockers, or different push rods?
Steve I work CNC so obviously i know how to measure parts. Im also stupid because after the video ended I have more questions than when I first searched how to set main bearing clearance 😂
Man I watch all your stuff .. some of it is common sense but I watch it all just to find the little things i don't know or to verify the things I think I know... It would be my dream to be able to just build high performance engines for a living
I use plasti gauge but I do multiple times and make sure all surfaces a clean and dry got pretty much the same measurement every time but yes lots of room for error!
@@badass6.0powerstroke10 oh snowflake did you really think i care what you post. If I want to hear from you. I will tell you what I want YOU to say buttercup.. have a nice day
Use a marker on the valve stem tip..where the roller hits it..should be centered on the stem...they make a tool .an adjustable push rod..to get the right valvetrain geometry..put adjustable push rod in..set lash..roll motor over by hand and check your Mark's on stem....re do untill centered on stem that's your push rod length..hope that helps..I don't see him answering any comments so that's my 2 cents on the subject... Jody...what I have learned anyhow......I don't know about shaft Mounted rocker hight but that will get you the correct pushrod size for any setup I would think....as for the shaft stands I do not know about that...I would think the stands are set...you just need to figure out pushrod length..and that's how ya do it..well how i know how to do it....lol... should be vids on it I'm sure...hay man best of luck on your build...keep us up to date on progress ...👍
No guys,, the main bore & con rod b.e. bore is round the bearing is made with the out of round shape. Its made like that because of the hydrodynamic wedge it builds.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the BEST video I've ever watched talking about main and rod bearing clearances.
When you build 4,000hp motors for a living you tend to scrutinize every thing. All your information will help my 400hp motor live longer.
I was thinking the same thing! 🤔😂
Well said
I'd rather go overkill building a street engine than build it cheap and have to do it twice!
Plasti guage is not the best way for sure but most of us cant afford the tools to do the pricise measurments. Thanks for showing the best methods
*Provided tune is good. A .00000000000000000000000000000000000001 Precision motor won't live through a bad tune.
Hey Steve, not sure if you’ll see this since it’s an old video but I’m really glad you started giving out informational videos. It seems like when I watch you explain something I really understand the concept better. Thanks from Michigan!
Excellent video, I didn't know about the difference in diameters 90 degrees apart.
Thanks Steve, I didn't know that about the different shape either!
An excellent video, and loving this channel! To clarify some things, the bore in the block is round, because as said it is not possible to hone an oval. It is the bearing that is eccentric, and a significant reason for this is to establish the conditions for good hydrodynamic lubrication, with an added benefit of the eccentric shell assisting with deformation of the main structure under load.
Sold instruction. Thank you. I’ve been a teacher now for 21 years. Excellent job, sir.
Thank you for explaining the finer points of what and why ! Your attention to detail is what makes you the MAN to go to if you want high horsepower!!
I'm from the auto mechanic guild. Steve, yes givin' away the store! A proper mechanic is a natural bs'r. You should never just tell anyone how to do the magic. They loose respect. Talk about demons and demigods. Tell them about the runes. Speak in a foreign language, but never tell anyone how you do what you do unless you are making mondo cash directly from them. You are givin' it away.❤😂 and thanks!
That's some really nice pieces Steve very impressed I'm loving your channel
The best steel rod in the business right there, Oliver max billet series. That is the only steel rod I run in my 540 f3-136 bbc and they ain't never failed me..
Thanks Steve. I am assembling my first engine. Its a 2.5 4 cil GM For an S10. Your information Is amazing. Thanks for sharing your knowleadge.
I'm glad that you stated your opinion about plastigage. It's OK for building a mild street engine, IF you use it correctly and carefully. There are a few things you can do that will give you a bogus clearance result.
OLÁ STEEVE 14/08/24 ÓTIMO vídeo. Na língua inglesa não comento por estar muitos anos sem contato auditivo. Sua observação esta correta quanto ao perfil das bronzinas da maioria dos motores. Atualmente as alterações feitas no sistema de lubrificação e as modificações efetuadas no perfil das bronzinas permitem a fabricação destas em maquinário e sistemas mais baratos tiveram a adição de projetos onde falta o conhecimento das particularidades do conjunto a ser lubrificado torna os motores e suas peças DEFICIENTES. Sua explanação é o sistema CORRETO. Abraços Roberto Udo Krapf
,,,new here.......Thank you for your work , time , and dedicated professionalism...............................
Steve...As a engine builder myself for drags and pulling trucks I respect your engines when we have to go up against one, so when I found this channel today it was a FAST hell yeah, I have to subscribe, but after all of the commercials in the first video, then SIX in the first 8mins of a 10min video in the second....I'm out and off of here. Big HP to yeah!!
bearing clearances have almost always been .001 per inch. SBC chevy lg rod .0021 clearance. As you said clearances go up from mild to wild builds. A little loose is always better than a little tight. LOL. Enjoying your videos even tho I'm a machinist who works on performance engines only.
Steve, you also could have talked a little bit about the crush of the bearing. The clearance that the rod and main bearings have to hold the bearing securely to prevent the shell from spinning. Nice info, thanks.
The gauge has a calibration tolerance of at least +/- 0.0001 in. Maybe twice that. Also, holding that gauge horizontal instead of vertical can increase the uncertainty in the gauge's measurement. Tipping the block and getting the gauge upright will help dial in that extra tenth or two of reliable measurement.
Awesome video! I keep learning more and more.
Extra tenth ?
@@sexyfacenation In precision measurement, I've found many machinists say "tenth" when referring to a ten-thousandth. Because everything they do is to the right of the decimal, they just slang tenth for that fourth place. Struck me as odd at first to be so concerned with proper/precise numbers, but then not use proper terms. But if the whole industry speaks the same, that's what really matters.
@sexy_face He prefers to hold aerospace tolerances...
@@geevesracing 👍
Love the tech videos Steve. Keep ithem going thanks!!!
Educational and informational
Advice..I like this guy he knows his shit.....I have built only a few motors..a Pontiac 406.18 year's ago ..still running strong today..and a Chevy 360..about four year's ago..and yes it's still running strong as well..I drag race both..spray both motors as well...200 shot..I did them both myself..I'm proud of them..I took my time rebuilding them...but not to this extent..lol...the Pontiac is about 420 hp.NA.the Chevy is about 550 hp....NA.......
Not the 1,000s of hp of this guy's builds but respectable in my book....my 66 tempest runs 12.0 s on motor...and my 78 Grand LeMans half backed big tire car runs 10s...on motor...so yeah I'm pretty proud of my work on both..there both still alive and running great...so I must have done something right..lol..👍💪💯,,,,,,
Great info. Ring gap clearances for turbo would be good
0.007 x bore size. So a 5.3 with a 3.78 bore you would run 0.026
I see more trouble with the "how" they have been fitted... Needs to explain what happens when the gaps are not "square" to each other and also when guys do not open up the second ring more than the top ring..
I run four thousands per inch of bore, get them ten thousands over and grind your end gap.Your oil control rings are directional, not the retainer but the top and bottom rings, you check them for direction by squeezing the open ends together and you see it go up or down, you want them to point up,which scavenges,going down expanding wipes the walls. I have done this on air cooled as I am a motorcycle tech, and not so much on water cool, to but enough to say four is safe, how hot is it going to run, not duration would be a important factor, if everything is proper their is an operating temp for water jobs, bikes duration would be a factor, like mean temperature, and movement or lack of air going thru cooling fins, this is why their is no set formula, but it works, measure your end gap in the bore, the ring end gaps will be way bigger then you think twenty-five? on a four inch bore I would set them up at sixteen, Staggered the rings I do, but it's just feel good, rings move period, they are pinned on two strokes not because they rev, it's so the gaps don't go near the ports and snag and snap, cuz they move,next tear down look for yourself,,like I said , for the feel good,so when you ask me if I Staggered the rings to reduce compression loss,I can look you in the eyes and say. Yep.....since I am writing this book I would like to to mention that fred flintstone is the only one who pounds feet what you want to say is foot pounds.Then you will at least sound like you know what you be yapping about.it makes me want to pound their face, this drunk biker is fading fast so good morning men, put it in your pipe or put it to use peace
❤ انا عربي من اليمن معجب ومهتم بماتقدم تحياتي لك وشكراً لك لبذل الجهود
First 👍's up Steve thanks again for taking us all to school today
This is great to know. I'm not building a Motor. But I still wanna know this. It's just the kind of real world experience I like to be knowledgeable on...
Dude is a wealth of knowledge
That's for sure....guys know his stuff don't he...man I'm glad I found this channel.👍.
Very interesting to see how these high hp motors have suck big clearences ....and why......easy to understand and explains it so we can comprehend it...💪.....now we just needs a few 1,00,000 dollars in tools, a big shop to do it...lol..that's why he makes the big bucks and big hp...that lives for a while...👍💪💯,
How would one get a clearance of .0060-.0070 of rod bearing clearance?
Custom bearings?
Sanding the bearing?
Grinding the crank?
Cant resize most aluminum rods because they have the dowel so the bearing doesn’t spin?
Very interested
Great vid! Wish I had gotten into engine building earlier in my life...
Thank you Steve for sharing this great information 🙏🤟
man this channel is great for knowledge
Hi Steve, if I was 40 years younger I would be pounding on your door for a job. It would have meant a lot to me to be around a person like you with both knowledge and great temperament. BTW, what was the paint used for the white engine block in the video ?
شكراً جزيلاً لكم لمعلوماتكم القيمة التي تشاركتا بها
Hey Steve love your videos been watching them on engine builder as well!
Went down to the 2022 Autorama on Friday; I saw a neat 4 door '64 Fairlane down there. It was a fairly "tame" blue color, and when you look into the engine compartment, there's this pretty lookin' piece of hardware, plumbing of some sort going every which way, with the letters SMX on top. Only one other car there caught my eye, a '71 or '72 Buick Skylark, LS, with the (big) turbo located where the battery usually goes--its installation was so sanitary, it looked like it came that way, from the factory--it even had a tricked out THM400, with a Reid case--($!!!). That Fairlane looks like it's goin' 100 mph, sittin' still! You should see where the driver sits--weight transfer complete, upon launch! lol
Hi! I have a question in general: When I do check my crankshaft bearing clearances (torqueing them down and measuring without a crank in the block) can I re-use those bearings when I finally mount the crank? Or do I have to buy a whole new set of crank and rod bearings? My friend said after toqueing down crank caps and rod caps the bearings get crushed and cannot be re-used. On the internet I found only one reference which said that they only get crushed "elastically", so they would do get back into their origin shape after loosening the caps.... Marlon
You can reuse
@@stevemorrisracing Thank you Steve, for sharing your time and knowledge with me! That's a great relief! Marlon
What weight of oil do run or recommend with .0025 to.003 clearance?
So when a machine shop line hones the mains on the block, how do they keep things from being round? Or is the non-roundness all in the bearings themselves?
Thanks for the videos.
I wish I would’ve known all this stuff 40 years ago
Great content thanks for sharing, very informative
Thanks Steve. That white block looks pimp! I listened with ear buds, and over the whole vid it sounds like something was rubbing over the mike. Can you please do a vid on thermal efficiencies of a traditional head, vs yours where the coolant passaging is separate to the block? I think is your smx heads?
I would invest in a gauge block set, and a gauge block holder to set your bore gauges. I see you using the mic. to check the bore gauge, that's not a good way to check/set the bore gauge.
I have a degree in machining and was a machine shop QC. Manager.
This video implies all thats already been done in the crank grinding/polishing process. Here, the journal, whatever it mics after being machined is the datum he is going off. he is measuring the difference between the journal and bearing. His mic could be calibrated to anything, it could be calibrated .01 off, you could calibrate it to say 1.1” with a 1” joe block.. regardless of what the mic says and what mic you use, if you zero the bore gauge to the mic right after measuring the journal, you will ALWAYS get the same clearance, in this case his .0026.
Naturally of course your mics should be set to a standard before even grinding the crank, but thats irrelevant in this video
@@benjaminrutledge7675 " if you zero the bore gauge to the mic right after measuring the journal, you will ALWAYS get the same clearance, in this case his .0026."
You're dealing with a tight tolerance .0026".
Your precision is one ten thousandths of an inch. No, it's not going to always be the same dimension when you try to transfer that dimension to the bore gauge with a precision of .0001. In a professional shop, you'll always see bore gauges with their gauge block set that was used to calibrate the bore gauge.
"His mic could be calibrated to anything, it could be calibrated .01 off, you could calibrate it to say 1.1” with a 1” joe block.."
Why on Earth would anyone do that? You're just asking for problems. All of your Mics should be set to their zero point. You should check your mic's calibration every day before you use the mic. Every year a gauge reliability test should be done by the inspector (you) on all your inspection equipment.
"Naturally of course your mics should be set to a standard before even grinding the crank, but thats irrelevant in this video"
Crankshaft diameters have a tolerance of .0005 -.0001. In a professional shop, you'd never use a mic to measure something with that tight of a tolerance. You'd use a snap gauge Go/No-Go, dial, or digital.
"If you're guessing you're not measuring."
Alright petal, dont get all snowflakey on me, i didnt mean to strike a nerve, im genuinely sorry about that.
I was exagerrating to prove a point.. the point being, everythjng you talk about doing its assumed has already been done and we are now comparing whatever the journal ended up at to the hole. You talk about using a transfer measuring tool (snap gauges) which need micing anyway and create a variable, yet have a beef with using a mic as a transfer tool to set a bore gauge after micing the journal. Obviously everyone sends their stuff for calibration yearly.. obviously youre doing all that before getting the journals nominal. Obviously this guy knows how to set bearing clearances without needing your joe block suggestions, obviously his mics arrived with standards like everyone elses.
At our ISO certified shop we use sunnens own dial gauge setting fixtures, we have things like a keyence, CMMs and a faro.. much better resolution to measure one tenth with than the *cough* snap gauges and go/nogo pins youre using.
But its ok, if thats the caliber of work you do, i guess thats as good as youll ever be.
@@benjaminrutledge7675 wow guys this is all above my pay grade for sure..lol....😂😅😅😂🤣,,,his is building race motors not a rocket ship for NASA.....all motors destroy themselves..it the nature of the beast....so a hundred of a thousands there or here really don't matter ...they are going to blow up eventually...it's just part of the game ,after all they make new parts every day...not like it's the last motor on Earth....these motors are pushed and beat on....there gunna go sooner or later....he dose his best to make it later rather then sooner......and by the looks of his shop he's doing pretty dam good work....or he wouldn't be where he is today...his reputation speaks for itself.....the end...
@@topfuel29channel the size doesn't mater, his mic could be dropped 20 times for all that it matters. It is the difference between he measured value and the dial bore indicator that matters. Not the actual measurement values overall.
I am having trouble finding .009 and .011 bearings Ford 460 . Who’s bearings are using?
Great video, how much difference does two bolt main caps verses the splayed caps make as far as bearing distortion?
Steve, why do people line bore the block? That would be a round hole, or am I wrong?
Yes, it's round. The bearings are not, though.
Hey Stevoe how many street miles would you get from those clearances ?? 🚩🏁
Steve, I just got my block back from the shop. Should i wash the block first then measure bearings, then final assemble or should I wait to wash before final assy?
on bearing clearance the vertical is what you are measuring to get into spec I understand that, but mixing std bearings and +.001 or -.001 bearings obviously leaves .0005 extra lip on each side I assume that doesn't matter because of the extra room that is machined into the rod and and mains correct? I have also heard that the difference between bolts and studs can cause a .001 looser or tighter tolerance due to extra clamping force of the stud. studs being tighter, bolts being looser is this correct? I love your videos I try and listen to every detail. thank you.
Those are some mega beefy rods cool pin retention steve
How did you measure the clearance when the engine was hot to see the difference.
One thing you should mention so people do not get confused is that the actual housing bore in your block or connecting rod should be perfectly round, it's just the bearings are made to not be round.
Your 100% wrong there bud. ONLY cam bearings and bores are round. Not the rods or mains .
@@chrisburnsed6349 incorrect. The bores in the block and the rods are round. Why do you think the specs call for those bores to not be out of round. You are just as confused as everyone else.
yes they are made to be round BUT if the parting line area is wider it makes no difference.
@@liftedcj7on44s Yes the bores are finished honed and as far as I know you can't hone an oval !
@@cncit Yes I am aware, I know they are supposed to be round, I build motors for a living myself. Anything I find over .0003" out of round I have to correct.
Great video Steve. I was wondering if you made pistons for a 408w stroker motor? Thanks God Bless!
Do a tech video on oil weights and brands for high hp
Thanks for your time.. very good information.
Nice video! I'm a fan of main studs as opposed to bolts, perhaps I'm missing something important...?
This setup will last for hundreds of passes with at lower hp 1500 to 2k. If going over 2k then they recommend.
@@jasonstormoen I'm so used to seeing main studs in sbc's it just seems normal.
They're splayed bolts.
im dsylexic and this does not make sense to me help me understand please why you would buy bearings before you know what size bearings you need?
The first time I used them those chamfered rod bearings got me many years ago.
Thank you sir 3yrs later for the tech tips. Gonna go figure out why this dang sbc wants to plasti at .0015. After market everything but block would be my guess. May report back with findings.
Good information 👍
What did you buy that Sunnen bore gage setting fixture off e-bay for then?
Awesome video.
Thanks for the video
When it’s line honed or line bored, doesn’t that make it round?
Finally a build up video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
How about the different block designs... Splayed caps.... Side bolted...... 4 bolt.... 2 bolt..... What is best for what hp and why...
Great Video Steve..
Any idea of at what clearance you will start to hear rod knock?
Thanks for the info.
I seen on dyno vids that the 400 Sbc with a 5.7 rod makes no improvement over the stock rod what is your option on that ?
Isn't it true also that the reason the bearings are elliptical instead of round is because that is how the oil is actually moved 'around' the space? Something about bearing eccentricity ?
Hi Steve what is the most hp you would use a titanium rod before switching to aluminum
Hey Steve, scott here from New Zealand. Love your work! Could you please put up a video about valve train geometry and the rocker arm sweep on the valve tip, (when you have time) There’s many videos on RUclips and seems everyone has there way. Im setting up a gm 400 chev, afr220 Heads, solid roller cam, .620 lift, sportsman lifters and pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers. The confusion I have is what way is right, the 90 degree at half lift theory or the set up to the middle of the valve stem theory. In my mind the 90 degree at half lift is the best because that’s getting the most out of the cam and the correct lift from the cam. I’ve set mine up so it’s 90 degrees at half lift, but when I do that, the sweep is around 30 thousandths, which seems fine but it’s in the the 1/3 part of the valve stem. Not in the middle. I guess the main question I have Is, is this ok, or will this load my valve guides? And if it’s not ok, do i need different roller rockers, or different push rods?
Excellent content....... thank you !
Steve I work CNC so obviously i know how to measure parts. Im also stupid because after the video ended I have more questions than when I first searched how to set main bearing clearance 😂
The shit you learn is awesome
Thank you great video
Guys sounds like a Michigander. Those guys know their stuff.
what paint do you use for engine block?
Thanks again 🙏
Great info thank you!!
Man I watch all your stuff .. some of it is common sense but I watch it all just to find the little things i don't know or to verify the things I think I know... It would be my dream to be able to just build high performance engines for a living
Didn't use the ratchet on the micrometer? How come?
I use plasti gauge but I do multiple times and make sure all surfaces a clean and dry got pretty much the same measurement every time but yes lots of room for error!
Nice Snap on box. Have the same matte black and burnt orange.
cool man, the same one huh?
@@despizedicon has Eagle decal on lower left drawer.
That's Fantastic, I'll sleep better tonight knowing that.
@@badass6.0powerstroke10 oh snowflake did you really think i care what you post. If I want to hear from you. I will tell you what I want YOU to say buttercup.. have a nice day
@@johnny2fast661 Exactly, do you really think people care what color toolbox you have.
How about rod side clearance & crank thrust clearance?
How do we subscribe for the pay tech videos?
Jesus the finer points!
High RPM Tighter or looser with the low pressure high volume pump
So what kind of clearances do marine engines run?
Expensive ones
How about proper settings for shaft mount rocker stand height and correct pushrod length
Use a marker on the valve stem tip..where the roller hits it..should be centered on the stem...they make a tool .an adjustable push rod..to get the right valvetrain geometry..put adjustable push rod in..set lash..roll motor over by hand and check your Mark's on stem....re do untill centered on stem that's your push rod length..hope that helps..I don't see him answering any comments so that's my 2 cents on the subject... Jody...what I have learned anyhow......I don't know about shaft Mounted rocker hight but that will get you the correct pushrod size for any setup I would think....as for the shaft stands I do not know about that...I would think the stands are set...you just need to figure out pushrod length..and that's how ya do it..well how i know how to do it....lol... should be vids on it I'm sure...hay man best of luck on your build...keep us up to date on progress ...👍
How do u machine for more clearance?
enjoying the videos :D
Oliver rods with WSB. Made many of them over the years. Even made a lot of the Z06 titanium rods while there.
How about con rod side clearance
Nice JH Taiwanese grade 8 main bolts. I get mine at lowes how about you?
Those bolts come in ALL of the dart aftermarket blocks. We’ve made ALOT of power in those bolts.
Well allways you can learn something.
No guys,, the main bore & con rod b.e. bore is round the bearing is made with the out of round shape.
Its made like that because of the hydrodynamic wedge it builds.
Rule of thumb for plain bearings, .001"-.0015" for each inch of bore and never less than .001" for less than 1" bores.
Opps 1973 gm LT1 350-355 steel rod Aftermarket eagles
@3:03 that is exactly what she said!!
vibration on a powdered rod will cause it to break. The greater the oil clearance the greater chance of the bearing hammereing out quicker.