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Ford 390 Rocker Shaft Rebuild, Cylinder Head, and Intake Install
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- Опубликовано: 20 дек 2022
- Follow along as I tear down the rocker shaft assemblies and reassemble, install the cylinder heads and drop the 5 ton intake manifold on!
Super helpful, getting ready to refurbish 352 rocker arm assembly. Thanks
I'm glad it helped you out!
Very nice tutorial, thank you. Just needed to know how to take apart the rocker assemblies, but ended up watching the whole thing and learned a lot.
Yeah I would never put one together without cleaning the rocker shafts out. Then just make sure the notches are turned right and make sure the necked down bolt gets put in the right hole.
As usual thanks for the tips that make putting the FE back together, the right way its a big help. You are showing me a lot I can be doing while the machine work is being done, it might take some time for that. Thanks !.
Glad I could help. You're welcome!
I cleaned the shafts like you did, quiet a bit of cunk in them, after a rebuild. There is a groove inside of the rockers that helps channel oil to the oil hole on the bottom of the rockers, mine were closed off not leading to the hole, I had to rework that inside groove so it woud flow to the oil hole at the bottom of the rocker.
It only weighs 85lbs.lve left the accelerator bracket on and the heater hose fitting.
Turn the lights on !
hope you have a great Christmas mr black lab and thanks for the videos Wof-Wof...
Merry Christmas to you!
A trick that makes the "Sack of concrete" manifold less clumsy to place if you're on your own is to screw in some all thread in each end of the passenger side, engage the corresponding holes in the manifold and carefully lower it to the positioning dowel at driver's (If equipped). To keep from squishing out the "Great Wall" gaskets, use weather strip cement on them.
I had to have my heads cut quite a bit so I probably couldn't have used the cork end seals anyway. I do like to use weather strip adhesive to glue my valve cover gaskets to the valve covers.
Never done an FE manifold. What were the engineers at Ford thinking!
Have replaced intake manifolds mostly on sbf and Y block. Your tip on making sure the distributor fits is priceless. Thank you
You're welcome. Several times I have seen people install the manifold on an FE only to find that they couldn't get the distributor in lol
Soy de Colombia muy buena la explicación gracias exelente video
gracias
5 ton intake manifold is right lol. I had to fit mine and had it on and off several times and then have it milled .050" total to fit. I don't think my machinist appreciated that job too much. One thing I did learn was instead of drilling out the rivets for the tin shield is to hit them counterclockwise with a cold chisel and hammer and they back right out enough you can get them out the rest of the way with pliers. My intake is an early road draft tube equipped and had a third rivet to get out since the tin shield goes to the back of the intake to hold the wire mesh baffle in place.
I'll have to remember to try backing the rivets out with a chisel next time! Thanks
@@BlackLabGarage My machinist told me about that trick and I thought he was messing with me until I tried it. They backed right out of there pretty easily lol.
Is there a follow up to this video? I couldn't find it
Yes, I have the how to check hydraulic lifter preload video, the finish assembly tips and tricks video, and the install and first crank video.
what size are the end plugs in rocker shaft for fe
It's a Dorman 555007 which is .54 inches in diameter.
You know they have come up with a way to fit that intake easier. It's called aluminum. Lol
I'd love to have an aluminum intake but a new Edelbrock Performer is $600 now and used ones are going for $400-$500. I looked around for an affordable one but couldn't find one so a 500lb S code intake it is lol
@@BlackLabGarage I know! The prices have gone through the roof on them! I am lucky enuf that I have been freinds with the local junk yard guy my entire life & have bought old parts trucks & engines for yrs so I have a stock Pyle of parts including sevral aluminum intakes. I currently have on my truck a oem aluminum dual plane HP intake from a 61 390. It works wonderful. But yes, the price of them things are out of control! It was just a couple yrs ago I needed some money so I tried to sell all my performer intakes, a 351C performer, a 390 performer, & a 460 performer & was only asking a $100 bucks a piece & got no takers. Still own all 3. Now I'm glad they didn't sell.
@@jesseduke694 I have a Performer 460 intake I bought a few years ago for my 460 going in my 1978 F-150. I got it just for weight savings over the factory intake on the 460.
Hey buddy how ya doing ?so glad I watched this one too..gonna watch the whole build now haahaa . Hey is there anyway of telln besides taking the head off if the head gasket was installed correctly as far as that water flow? 2) I just heard about that diesel oil...so on break in you used 30weight diesel oil & zzp additive I take it? (What flavor [brand]😂) & thats all you use now? 30weight ?
3) can't believe so the felpro is garbage ( igot the thicker one .065 #1247S-3) still no good?
4) so the rockers themselves not the seats themselves with that extra insert metal where stem hits but the body of it seems to be like worn or round down or something is this ok? Or is that normal cuz they are built rounded & not straight flat 🤔 idk. ...& how bout them China walls 😅😂my friend haaaaaa
& this is the valley pan i was talking bout ...you do have one!! Keeps the hot oil off of intake now I know ...so yessirrrr is needed 👍👍
If you look at the head gasket you will see it has a notch cut out on one end of the head gasket and its cut straight across on the other end. Look at the front of the motor where the head meets the block. If you see the notch in the head gasket then it's installed backwards. I broke it in with SAE 30 Diesel oil and then went to 15w40 diesel oil after break in. I did use Comps ZDDP additive. The 1247S-3 is ok to use because it has a steel core in the gasket. That's what the S means in the part number. China walls I used Motorcraft TA-31 silicone. I'm not sure what you are talking about on the rockers?
Hey my friend how's it go?? Hope all is well out in Tennessee.. just learned it's the bachelor/ Bachelorette best city destination better than New Orleans. (Never knew that one)😅😂 o whats up with the diesel oil thing is it cuz it burns cleaner . ?Some one else told me about it ; but I payed it no mind till I seen you do it. Thx for schooling me on that felpro "S" gasket (steel) (telln you u just like my bud the Mopar but) 😅😂 also I see you didn't use the cork gasket on the China walls, I see some people use it but most don't! Do they leak with them? Whats your reasoning behind it??cuz you milled something or?? I was gonna use them i don't wanna have no leaks especially any vacuum leaks either.. have u had problems with that front & rear cork gasket with stuff not lining up? Feel its kinda cheesy just nothing but silicone.. but if my oskoo friend BLACK LAB. Doing it... MUST BE A RYHME & REASON!! MORE likely than not I will follow suit😁😎(gonna grab that ford sealant too!!✊✊🤝🤝
The diesel oil has higher levels of zinc in it which helps the flat tappet cam and lifters live. They removed the zinc and phosphorous from most modern oils but they aren't needed in modern engines because most all of them have roller camshafts and roller lifters in them so it isn't an issue for them. From my research the Rotella T4 still has high levels of zinc and phosphorous, and conventional Delo and Mobil does as well. Now the newer formulations like Rotella T5 and others have less zinc and phosphorous in them. I did have to have my heads milled but that was because they had been stored on concrete and had drawn moisture and had severe rust pits in the sealing surface. I had them cut .020. That wasn't why I used silicone on the china walls though. Usually the cork or rubber china wall seals will eventually start leaking or just flat out get spit out. The silicone will not do that as long as your surfaces are clean and you let it set up properly. Motorcraft TA-31 is the best silicone I have ever used and it's formulated for diesel oil. Ford sent out a technical bulletin about only using TA-31 in Powerstroke diesels because other silicones was causing the diesel oil to foam up. Plus here it's $15.00 and some change for a caulking gun sized tube of TA-31 and it almost $15.00 for a small squeeze tube of regular silicone at most auto parts stores.@@OGSHAKER2020
@@BlackLabGarage thanks bud...ill follow your lead(no China gaskets) & im going diesel oil now 🤣😅 & I forgot you mentioned in your vid about the .020 with the preload vid I believe the differences not canceling. Each other out ... so still needed smaller push rods.. .have an awesome Friday my friend God bless you 🙏 & the lab!!(why the heck they called China walls 🤔 😁😄🤔
Buy a big block Chevy. But keep trying to keep the old Ford alive. Just messing with you. Later, John Kennedy
A big block Chevy is blasphemy! lol