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Yeah on those engines if you run a thermostat it's critical that you run the correct thermostat with the hat on it or they will overheat. My white 1979 F-350 that I have now has a 400 in it and right now it's usually between 92-100 degrees here and it doesn't overheat at all. That's with the proper thermostat but just the regular stock radiator, stock fan, and no fan shroud. The shroud was missing when I got the truck.

@@BlackLabGarage i had a 3 core super cool the trans cooler with fan separate from the radiator and the same with the oil cooler. The guy i bought it from used it to pull his boat to the cost. And down here in the summer it stayed up near 200 when going down the rd. Sitting at a red light it would get a bit hotter. Thats why I took the thermostat out.

I will check and see what size it is when I get home this evening.

I have seen their videos and without a doubt a lot of it is caused by the finish on the lifters. But I also think some cam cores are not properly hardened, some have too much valve spring, and some are using the wrong oil, and some are a combination of all the above lol

@@KentuckyFriedFixes you’re very welcome! Thank you for your subscription!

I don’t have any links to stuff because I don’t have any sponsors or affiliates. Maybe one day I will. I do appreciate the offer though

@@BareRoseGarage they are probably all coming from the same place more than likely and just swapping labels on them. But it’s definitely better than using a block of wood and trying to knock them out! I might cut me some new stands for it out of solid rod and magnetize them myself. Thank you for your kind words!

@@mooosestang 2438 is the same heat range as an Autolite 45. It has a projected firing tip like the 45. The 3323 is the same heat range as the Autolite 124. Both are 18mm spark plugs. But technically there is no spark plug for this engine or that engine. All you need is the proper thread pitch, proper seat (taper or gasket), and the proper heat range for the application.

@@BlackLabGarage Hmmm, not sure which to get. I have a 390 FE with factory iron heads, but pertronix ignitor 2 distributor and flame thrower 0.6 ohm coil. maybe a colder plug wouldn't hurt. I think i hear pinging sometimes even with 93.

@@mooosestang I wouldn’t be surprised if you hear pinging. The Autolite 45 and the NGK 2438 are the equivalents of the Motorcraft BF42. They were recommended for the truck 390’s because they were a hotter spark plug and worked well with the 7.5:1-8:1 low compression truck engines. But they are too hot for the higher compression car engines. That’s why they recommended the BF 32 spark plug for them because it was colder and worked better with the 9.5:1-10.5:1 higher compression car engines. Unfortunately they no longer make the BF 32 spark plug so we have to use the Autolite 124 or the NGK 3323 in its place. Also the NGK 2438, Autolite 45, Motorcraft BSF 42 is a projected nose spark plug which not only is hotter but also with the tip sticking further down into the combustion chamber makes it more prone to detonation. My 390 is 9:1 and the Autolite 124’s worked better in it.

@@BlackLabGarage I assume mine is 9.6:1, it's a 63 thunderbird, but the engine could have come from anywhere. It had aluminum intake, aftermarket carb and chrome oil pan and valve covers when i bought it. I will pull a plug and see what the previous owner has in it. NGK-2227 is a 18mm plug and looks like a colder plug than the 2438, has the same reach as the 3323. I see the autolite 124 looks exactly the same as the ngk-3323. I assume if i go to cold i will get misfires and fouling.

@@mooosestang yes…you definitely don’t want to go too cold

@@broke_dongle it’s a good little kit

Yeah that's a good idea to grease the threads up. I will do that. Thanks!

It would be hard to beat it for $50. Honestly I wasn't expecting much from it but I was pleasantly surprised

@@marlodeguzman9479 I usually just tap them until I see the ring on the end of the needle and then recheck the float height after you get the ring on the needle.

I don't work on Hondas very often so I can't say for sure. But as far as Comp goes, their push rods and rocker arms may be ok but I won't use their camshafts or lifters. Which your Honda is overhead cam so it may be ok but I hate to chance it.

I hardly ever see them with a jiggle pin anymore since Stant went out of business. You can buy Stant but its a Motorad thermostat in a Stant box.

I'll check him out. Thank you!

Thank You for your kind words. I learned to stay off the floor from Joe Sherman. He always said there is nothing to be gained at the floor.

I always liked the body style of the 1985 Thunderbirds

Nope…that’s. Ferguson TO-30. Look at the engine. It’s overhead valve and the distributor is on the left side of the engine. Not to mention you can see the spark plugs on the left side of the engine

@@robertsims6136 Thank You!

@@DanNichols-e4g well yes and no. The 1978 and 1979 Bronco are basically an F-150 from the doors forward so sheet metal and stuff will interchange. You have to be careful when it comes to the front axle and steering because there was some changes made thru the years. The front axle had king pins until 1977 which is when they went to ball joints. Then in the steering they had the inverted T and inverted Y steering systems. You can interchange them but you have to have the whole steering setup and swap it. Things like that is where you have to be careful on trying to interchange parts between the 1973-1979 trucks.

@@WilliamMunny-d8s most of the time changing to an aftermarket wheel will cause the turn signal cancel to not work but I haven’t heard of it causing the electrical part of it to not work but they could have damaged something installing it I suppose. I had removed the rag joint from the steering shaft when I did this video

@@MsKatjie it may have a slight bow to it. Which I think part of that jumping is caused by the angle that the front pto has to run at. Look at the video at 2:20 and you can see the angle the front pto has to run at. But the carrier bearing yoke is adjusted as far down as it can go

@@bamadave6324 that nut adjust the movement of the control valve if needed. The actual upper stop is controlled by the quadrant stop on the lift quadrant. By not setting it properly is how so many people bust their lift covers. I can make a video of that

@@gilbertmorales9565 I’ll see what I can do

@@brianacott371 you’re very welcome!

@@cs2-llc thank you for the kind words. I’m glad some of my stuff is helping others. That means a lot to me. I appreciate you watching

@@MX-fo2nu Thank You!

@@mikecarignan7002 a 1985 model 460 would still have the retarded timing set and the low compression pistons. You would be amazed at how much difference the straight up timing set by itself will make. Get the compression up to 9:1 plus a straight up timing set and it becomes a totally different engine. Plus you get better fuel economy. The 352 is a good engine. Far better than the 360 that replaced it in the trucks. People think that I don’t like the FE engines but that’s not true. I even built a 390 and put in my 1974 F-350 and it was a great engine and I got 13mpg out of a ton flat bed dually. But the 385 series engines (429/460) are much cheaper to build and you get more cubic inches which equals more power cheaper than you can building the FE engines.

@@davestewart9146 I think these two are a very worthwhile upgrade and not too bad on the budget.

@@MattsRageFitGarage usually the tilt columns are shot. Mostly cause people tend to pull themselves up into the truck by the steering wheel. I had a friend that had one and every time you shut the door the steering wheel would fall down😂

@@BlackLabGarage Mine was worn out pretty bad. The two bearings in the upper column were really sloppy.

@@MattsRageFitGarage I had to replace the upper bearing in my 1974 F-350

@@BlackLabGarage The bearings used in those columns definitely don't seem like that high of quality do they?

@@JasonBackes yes a 2wd steering box is different than a 4x4 steering box.

@BlackLabGarage ,I have a few questions, 1, my wife's 79 Bronco, it's a automatic, C6, What's the best kit for, Pan seal 🦭 n filter?? 2.on my 78 Bronco, iam putting in the 460, it's a manual NP435 4 speed, u know the tork Is specs on the manual fly wheel? 3. On pilot bushing on 460, which in u option is better? A solid bushing or the ones that have the pin type Bearing ??

@@JasonBackes I imagine you are using a 390 flywheel to install the 460 in the bronco? If so the flywheel to crankshaft is 75-85ft lbs. the pressure plate bolts are 25ft lbs. I know when you look online like Summit Racings torque chart says 35ft lbs for the pressure plate bolts. Those pressure plate bolts are 5/16” bolts and they are not grade 8 bolts from Ford. If you try to torque them to 35ft lbs they will snap. ARP does make a replacement bolt for the special Ford bolts. Their bolts might take 35ft lbs but the factory Ford bolts will not. Of course I use loctite on both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I have used the the needle bearing pilot bearings and the bronze bushing type pilot bearing and both work well. The bronze bushing will take more abuse and is better if your input shaft is not perfect where it goes in the pilot bearing. Generally I use the bronze bushing on trucks and needle bearings in cars. Now if you use the bronze bushing before you install it, soak it in engine oil for 12-24 hours. Ford put out a technical bulletin about that. They said those bushings would dry out some from sitting on the shelves for long periods of time. That’s why they recommended soaking the bushing in oil before installing it.

@@JasonBackes as far as the transmission filter Wix makes a good one. The main thing is get one that uses a cork rubber composite gasket. The pure cork gaskets always end up leaking after a while.

​@BlackLabGarage thank u brother for your answers 🙏 ❤️ I will take your advice 🙏 😊

@@JasonBackes all that screw on the steering box does is tighten the mesh up between the gears in the steering box. Tighten it too much and your steering box will start binding up

@@JasonBackes as far as the rag joint, I’ve driven these trucks and broncos with everything from 31x10.50-15’s to 40x17.50-15 tires on them with the stock tag joint and I’ve have no problems with them. Which I always kept a good rag joint installed on them. Sure a solid Borgeson would be better if you can afford it but I haven’t had any problems with the stock rag joints.

@@robertclymer6948 I’m pretty sure those model trucks the back glass is glued in with urethane. I haven’t changed a back glass in them but I’m pretty sure they are glued in with urethane and would have to be cut out and then the new one glued back in with urethane

@@olmoe1167 Thank You!

@@moparnut6286 Thank You!

@@TheRossillini I like factory EFI systems but aftermarket EFI is too problematic

@@BlackLabGarage depends on the setup man I have a 460 efi with obd1 and that shits garbage but I’m running a torque storm supercharger and I’m going to try Holley’s super sniper.

@@TheRossillini I know there has been people use the mass air and computer from the fox body mustangs on their trucks which is a great improvement

@@BlackLabGarage I think it’s all cool because there’s still things happening in the industry such as the innovation of the efi systems.

@@TheRossillini multiport fuel injection will always be better than throttle bottle fuel injection. My biggest gripe with aftermarket fuel injection is it takes very little to make it go haywire or not run at all. But you don’t hear that much about it on here. It’s only the success stories that you hear about mostly on here. But what are you really gaining with aftermarket fuel injection? Fuel economy? The difference between a properly sized and tuned carb and aftermarket fuel injection would be negligible and could go in favor of either one on a given day. One of the FE groups that I’m in, some of them running aftermarket EFI can’t get the fuel mileage I have with a carb. You can let the EFI control the distributor but I recurve my distributors and adjust the vacuum advance so there isn’t a big advantage there either? I just don’t see where there is a $2,000 advantage of aftermarket EFI over a properly set up carbureted engine.

Loading it up and drove into it? Lol

Good tutorial!👍🏻

@@user-vl6yl2hk9n thank you for your kind words!

Was he taking it to the shop to get that overdue brake job? lol

@robertclymer6948 no just crazy old man thing!

@@MattsRageFitGarage I hate to hear you was sick. Feeling better now? When I go to swap the 460 into my white F-350 I’ll have to rebuild the NP435 transmission. The second gear synchronizers are going bad

@@BlackLabGarage Yeah I feel better but still low on energy. I was doing some drywall work and came into some mold, started coughing real bad from it, tore the drywall out and mixed up bleach and water to treat the mold and the fumes took me out, but I think I was already getting sick. Pretty sure it was that new rona variant, but I got a bit of a chemical burn down to my lungs with it as well. I had a better time doing the C6 than finishing the new engine lol.

@@MattsRageFitGarage glad you’re feeling better now. They was actually telling us at work about a woman who died just from bleach fumes! Not counting the mold and everything else you breathed in but bleach fumes themselves can kill you apparently

@@BlackLabGarage Yeah I wasn't around the bleach that much after I sprayed it but man is sure is nasty. I wound up losing my smell and taste for most of that week and I gotta say standing over the parts washer washing everything especially the transmission parts wasn't bad, throat was sore like swallowing razor blades for about 5 days though.

@@MattsRageFitGarage definitely sounds like you had the Rona! That was the worst thing when I had it was the sore throat. I’ve never in my life had a sore throat that hurt that bad!

@@user-vl6yl2hk9n it’s a slow go trying to do everything right as I go. Like pull the engine and install the floor pans. Modify the steering shaft, etc…before I can set the 460 in

I’m replacing the floor pans and modifying the steering shaft while I have the motor out.

@@TanquerayTom64 oh it gets even better. I got Covid while rebuilding it in the driveway in the wintertime lol.

@@MrjackieG I had to fabricate mine as well. I just used steel tubing that fit over the ends of the loader frame and welded it to angle iron that attaches under the axles where the stabilizer bars would normally attach under the axles