On my performer 390 intake I put some rtv around all the ports to make sure no oil gets in them. Used a stainless steel shim and copper rtv to block of the heat cross over too. So far no leaks and runs great.
In about 1974, I replaced the head gaskets in my 1958 Edsel Roundup station wagon with the 361 (FE) engine. One of the biggest problems I had was keeping the China Wall gaskets in place while I tried to place the intake manifold just in the right spot. This was the stock 83 pound intake also, and all this while the engine was still in the car. I wish that I had known the trick about using the distributor to align that boat anchor of a manifold. I'll be putting the heads and manifold on the 352 engine in my '59 Fairlane soon, and I'll use your tips. Thanks. I hope that my back holds up, I'm 67 now.
I remember the first time I swapped a 2bbl intake with a cast iron S code 4V intake, and wondering “why I didn’t get an aluminum one instead”.!?!? I was certainly sore the next day. However it sure was worth it.😉 Thanks for watching
@@FabRaceModRepeat Last night I installed a new pressure hose on the power steering, along with removing the return hose and a hose to the piston. I also cleaned the area of oil and dirt so that I can see what is leaking. I can hardly wait to get it running.
I use a cherry picker for the FE intake manifolds. I lower the intake down just enough to start the bolts. I slowly lower it down as I screw in the bolts to where the manifold eventually fully rests in the engine wedge. I Have 0 problems with the China Wall gaskets slipping around. Also, I coat the china wall gasket with red rtv on all sides. Also, the rtv helps keep the China Wall gaskets in place. I never have put RTV around the water jackets holes though. I haven't had any issues with gasket leaks in the past.
I’ve done it that way a few times with the engine still in vehicle. And in the shop if the cast iron intake is going back on. I always put a little RTV around the water ports, just a bit of extra insurance.
Sealing the cork is pure genius. I've been around cars since they still had drum brakes up front... and I never once thought of doing that to keep the cork from seeping.
If you don’t use the hylomar sealer on the corks, they will definitely wick oil, especially if you have less than 14 in hg or you just run a catch can like I do to keep oil from getting into the fuel/air mixture and cause detonation. It can have enough positive pressure to wick it out. I run a catch can on my twin turbo 2.7 Edge ST a 2022 to prevent detonation. Every couple months you can check it and it is always just a shop towel wipe and it’s good. I have never liked PCV and ran catch cans instead.
If you don’t use the hylomar sealer on the corks, they will definitely wick oil, especially if you have less than 14 in hg or you just run a catch can like I do to keep oil from getting into the fuel/air mixture and cause detonation. It can have enough positive pressure to wick it out. I run a catch can on my twin turbo 2.7 Edge ST a 2022 to prevent detonation. Every couple months you can check it and it is always just a shop towel wipe and it’s good. I have never liked PCV and ran catch cans instead.
@@johnterpack3940 That works really well. I ran it on my 410 FE engine and the exhaust pulled amazingly well and I never had any leaks , just a little bit of sweat. I used the 440 Mopar check valves. That thing was a hoss! lol.
@@Bbbbad724 Working on a 427W for my daily and punching my T-bird's 352 out to 427. Both will be getting the catch can/exhaust scavenge setup. Pretty much the only thing the two engines will have in common.
Nice job with the dead blow hammer. I’ve always just torque them three different times at a light setting medium setting and then to the final setting. I like the way you put things together. I’m gonna be building a 410 FE later this year.
I never use Print to Leaks, and I always pull the dowel pin on the China wall. I do hope that is an aluminum intake. The heat riser needs a block on each side in the gasket made of stainless steel. I use the Mr Gasket 202A s for the intake with a slot cut for the heat riser stainless block off is. What intake do you have? It sounded like iron. I hope that it runs well for you.
Gasket type is a matter of opinion. I’ve always had good luck with the print-o-seals. Mr Gaskets work well. The intake is factory PI aluminum piece (and on its last leg). The early PI intakes tend to be a bit cold natured for the larger carbs, owner requested the cross over left open. It’ll run just fine.
Thanks to your video, I did a test fit of my 390 intake and dist and she dropped right in. I did have to drill a hole (counter sink) for the guide pin in the Edelbrock intake. I measured the height of the pin and drill almost the same depth but I think I got it since the gasket will take up that room. A lot of people are telling me to only use RTV because later on, the cork will leak, and I was seriously thinking about it. But seeing how easy and lightweight the aluminum intake is, I think I might use the gasket and the same sealer (stuff works great! and on rubber valve cover gaskets/never leaks). Thanks again,
“All” FE’s are suppose to have the valley pan under the intake . It keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake making for a cooler intake temperature.
I am putting together my 390 and have a couple questions! I'm using the performer rpm intake and I see you didn't install tv's valley pan/ splash pan under the intake? Reason? Also rtv around those particular bolt holes on the head/intake surface?
Great questions: In the previous intake video, when I turn the intake over, you’ll notice it has a built in pan on it. Also we may swap the intake out for an Edelbrock later. I put RTV around the front and rear bolt holes to seal them because they are so close to the water ports. I run the bead up each end of the head to assure they seal to the intake. I try to never put RTV around intake openings. The reason being I spent a lot of time port matching the intake head and gaskets. I do not want RTV squeezing in and messing up the air flow. I also use felpro printo-seal gaskets which have a silicon ring on each side. They seal the ports quit well; as long as the intake tolerances are good.
@@FabRaceModRepeat thanks. I’m installing an Isky in my 390. I’ve actually rebuilt complete engines years ago but I’m watching everything I can so I give the cam every chance it has to live. Should be doing the break in tomorrow and it’s freaking me out. 😂
because there is no exhaust cross over.. Edelbrock heads eliminate it (as do most after market intakes) that shield just keeps oil from coking on bottom of intake and falling down in motor.. He uses cork gaskets and leaves the "pin" in the china wall, something I have never done in decades of doing these things for a living.. pull the pin, use RTV on the rail.. That pin can hold an intake off from seating and air gap the rail.. Still mostly a personal preference issue..
I put it on Edelbrock intakes, and the Holley SD, the PortoSonic is a Heavy intake with less void area. The others unless new are likely to be easy to warp as you are tightening. Never on iron. I also drop in the distributor before starting any bolts. I also move the the distributor back and forth as I am tightening.
Thanks for watching! As I mentioned in “Fitting the FE intake”, this intake is pretty much used up. We may need to pull it back off. So we left it out for now. The owner may also want to use another intake he has on hand.
I must have missed that part. Video series is great. I've been watching them all as I'm assembling a 390 and looking for tricks. My first ford fe but not my first engine..
John Collins The Holley 2300 series carbs work well as replacements for the 2100 autolites. The 350cfm model should work fine on a stock 2bbl equipped standard 390. If you have a premium fuel model 2bbl I’d lean toward the 500cfm.
Starzan Horse, Thanks for watching! That used to be true about 80% of the time. It depends on how much the heads and block have been milled along with a few other variables. I’ve been asked about this a few times lately. I’ll be making a video about it soon.
I’m in the midst of this task on my 390. I mixed up the rocker arms . Heard I might have to adjust valves , correct and if so how plz !?☺️ oddly I’m not seeing instructions on my manual. Thx. Great vid!
I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW MANY ENGINES WERE RUINED BY WELL MEANING PEOPLE OVERDOING IT WITH RTV ENDING UP WHERE IT DOESN'T BELONG MOSTLY IN THE PICKUP SCREEN .
Vintage Dashboard I would be some what inclined to agree if the is build had a new intake, dependent on the China wall to intake end gaps. However for this application I’m confident in the decision to use the cork. Also note that I sealed the cork with aviation sealer. That really helps it not dry out and leak.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
On my performer 390 intake I put some rtv around all the ports to make sure no oil gets in them. Used a stainless steel shim and copper rtv to block of the heat cross over too. So far no leaks and runs great.
Glad it’s working out for you.
Thanks for watching.
In about 1974, I replaced the head gaskets in my 1958 Edsel Roundup station wagon with the 361 (FE) engine. One of the biggest problems I had was keeping the China Wall gaskets in place while I tried to place the intake manifold just in the right spot. This was the stock 83 pound intake also, and all this while the engine was still in the car. I wish that I had known the trick about using the distributor to align that boat anchor of a manifold. I'll be putting the heads and manifold on the 352 engine in my '59 Fairlane soon, and I'll use your tips. Thanks. I hope that my back holds up, I'm 67 now.
I remember the first time I swapped a 2bbl intake with a cast iron S code 4V intake, and wondering “why I didn’t get an aluminum one instead”.!?!?
I was certainly sore the next day.
However it sure was worth it.😉
Thanks for watching
@@FabRaceModRepeat Last night I installed a new pressure hose on the power steering, along with removing the return hose and a hose to the piston. I also cleaned the area of oil and dirt so that I can see what is leaking. I can hardly wait to get it running.
I use a cherry picker for the FE intake manifolds. I lower the intake down just enough to start the bolts. I slowly lower it down as I screw in the bolts to where the manifold eventually fully rests in the engine wedge. I Have 0 problems with the China Wall gaskets slipping around. Also, I coat the china wall gasket with red rtv on all sides. Also, the rtv helps keep the China Wall gaskets in place. I never have put RTV around the water jackets holes though. I haven't had any issues with gasket leaks in the past.
I’ve done it that way a few times with the engine still in vehicle. And in the shop if the cast iron intake is going back on. I always put a little RTV around the water ports, just a bit of extra insurance.
I was thinking the same.
Sealing the cork is pure genius. I've been around cars since they still had drum brakes up front... and I never once thought of doing that to keep the cork from seeping.
If you don’t use the hylomar sealer on the corks, they will definitely wick oil, especially if you have less than 14 in hg or you just run a catch can like I do to keep oil from getting into the fuel/air mixture and cause detonation. It can have enough positive pressure to wick it out. I run a catch can on my twin turbo 2.7 Edge ST a 2022 to prevent detonation. Every couple months you can check it and it is always just a shop towel wipe and it’s good. I have never liked PCV and ran catch cans instead.
If you don’t use the hylomar sealer on the corks, they will definitely wick oil, especially if you have less than 14 in hg or you just run a catch can like I do to keep oil from getting into the fuel/air mixture and cause detonation. It can have enough positive pressure to wick it out. I run a catch can on my twin turbo 2.7 Edge ST a 2022 to prevent detonation. Every couple months you can check it and it is always just a shop towel wipe and it’s good. I have never liked PCV and ran catch cans instead.
@@Bbbbad724 I'm planning to run a catch can. But I also want to add the old-school exhaust scavenging system to pull the vacuum in the crank case.
@@johnterpack3940 That works really well. I ran it on my 410 FE engine and the exhaust pulled amazingly well and I never had any leaks , just a little bit of sweat. I used the 440 Mopar check valves. That thing was a hoss! lol.
@@Bbbbad724 Working on a 427W for my daily and punching my T-bird's 352 out to 427. Both will be getting the catch can/exhaust scavenge setup. Pretty much the only thing the two engines will have in common.
Nice job with the dead blow hammer. I’ve always just torque them three different times at a light setting medium setting and then to the final setting. I like the way you put things together. I’m gonna be building a 410 FE later this year.
Thanks much!!
410 is my favorite FE for the street.
Thanks for watching
I love the 410 also!
Good job on taking your time and explaining the steps clearly.
I never use Print to Leaks, and I always pull the dowel pin on the China wall. I do hope that is an aluminum intake. The heat riser needs a block on each side in the gasket made of stainless steel. I use the Mr Gasket 202A s for the intake with a slot cut for the heat riser stainless block off is. What intake do you have? It sounded like iron. I hope that it runs well for you.
Gasket type is a matter of opinion. I’ve always had good luck with the print-o-seals. Mr Gaskets work well. The intake is factory PI aluminum piece (and on its last leg). The early PI intakes tend to be a bit cold natured for the larger carbs, owner requested the cross over left open. It’ll run just fine.
Thanks to your video, I did a test fit of my 390 intake and dist and she dropped right in.
I did have to drill a hole (counter sink) for the guide pin in the Edelbrock intake.
I measured the height of the pin and drill almost the same depth but I think I got it since the gasket will take up that room.
A lot of people are telling me to only use RTV because later on, the cork will leak, and I was seriously thinking about it.
But seeing how easy and lightweight the aluminum intake is, I think I might use the gasket and the same sealer (stuff works great! and on rubber valve cover gaskets/never leaks).
Thanks again,
Glad I could help.
I found that if you use a center punch on the chiny rail & make tiny dimples it will hold the cork gasket much better
!
I’ve seen that done to a few FE’s and some Buick engines over the years.
My FE390 has a rocker Valley heat shield. Looks like a windage tray. It’s stock. 1969
“All” FE’s are suppose to have the valley pan under the intake . It keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake making for a cooler intake temperature.
Well that went smooth, I am ready to hear it fire up.
IT DID!!
It once again shows what good prep work is worth.
Every 5minutes spent up front saves about 1/2 hour in rework.
excellent video. This will help me with my 390 FE build
Glad I could help!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Now that I am really getting into my build I am wondering how you handle that intake manifold with such ease! mine is so darn heavy!!
This one is aluminum. The stock cast iron ones are about 4 times as heavy.
Do you need the valley tray? I forgot to put mine in :/
It’s good to have it. However it’s not the end of the world.
Its there to help the intake run cooler, which encourages a denser intake charge.
Thank you for your fast responses and help. If you need anything let me know!
No joke
Tons of chevy rebuild. 1st Ford fe360
What were the pins in the distributer? You pulled them out and rested them inside it.
Good eye!
Those are the distributor gear and reluctor star pins.
@@FabRaceModRepeat Really easy to forget about.
I am putting together my 390 and have a couple questions! I'm using the performer rpm intake and I see you didn't install tv's valley pan/ splash pan under the intake? Reason? Also rtv around those particular bolt holes on the head/intake surface?
Great questions:
In the previous intake video, when I turn the intake over, you’ll notice it has a built in pan on it. Also we may swap the intake out for an Edelbrock later.
I put RTV around the front and rear bolt holes to seal them because they are so close to the water ports. I run the bead up each end of the head to assure they seal to the intake. I try to never put RTV around intake openings. The reason being I spent a lot of time port matching the intake head and gaskets. I do not want RTV squeezing in and messing up the air flow. I also use felpro printo-seal gaskets which have a silicon ring on each side. They seal the ports quit well; as long as the intake tolerances are good.
No break in lube on the bottom of the lifters? Just assembly lube?
aslmx1918, Good catch. I edited right past the break in lube part. I use Comp Cams breakin lube on all my cam installs.
@@FabRaceModRepeat thanks. I’m installing an Isky in my 390. I’ve actually rebuilt complete engines years ago but I’m watching everything I can so I give the cam every chance it has to live. Should be doing the break in tomorrow and it’s freaking me out. 😂
YOU FORGOT THE VALLEY OIL BAFFLE THAT KEEPS HOT OIL OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD . WHY ?
because there is no exhaust cross over.. Edelbrock heads eliminate it (as do most after market intakes) that shield just keeps oil from coking on bottom of intake and falling down in motor.. He uses cork gaskets and leaves the "pin" in the china wall, something I have never done in decades of doing these things for a living.. pull the pin, use RTV on the rail.. That pin can hold an intake off from seating and air gap the rail.. Still mostly a personal preference issue..
Why not RTV over all ports just to be safe? Not asking from experience, just asking for knowledge. Thanks
@Philo Bedo
Great question
I typically don’t use RTV around the ports so as not to ooze any into the air path.
I put it on Edelbrock intakes, and the Holley SD, the PortoSonic is a Heavy intake with less void area. The others unless new are likely to be easy to warp as you are tightening. Never on iron. I also drop in the distributor before starting any bolts. I also move the the distributor back and forth as I am tightening.
No valley pan?
Thanks for watching!
As I mentioned in “Fitting the FE intake”, this intake is pretty much used up. We may need to pull it back off. So we left it out for now. The owner may also want to use another intake he has on hand.
I must have missed that part. Video series is great. I've been watching them all as I'm assembling a 390 and looking for tricks. My first ford fe but not my first engine..
Are you saying NOT to use the valley pan if installing a Edelbrock 2105 on a 352 ?
By all means install the valley pan. We didn’t do it in this one because we may swap the intake off later.
Do you recommend getting rid of the intake dowel pin?
Great question.
I take it on a case by case bases. I keep it about 60-70% of the time.
The more modified the engine the less likely I’ll keep it.
Maybe you can help. I have a 72 ford f250 with a 360. Will a Holley 350 be the best replacement for my old Autolite 2100 carborator?
John Collins
The Holley 2300 series carbs work well as replacements for the 2100 autolites. The 350cfm model should work fine on a stock 2bbl equipped standard 390.
If you have a premium fuel model 2bbl I’d lean toward the 500cfm.
Thank you! Just an old farm truck with respectable gas mileage.
John Collins
No problem at all.
Thanks for watching
What rtv is that?
Permatex Mega black
What he doesn’t mention.,, no adjustment needed for hydraulic lifters if you don’t mess with rockers. I think
Starzan Horse,
Thanks for watching!
That used to be true about 80% of the time. It depends on how much the heads and block have been milled along with a few other variables. I’ve been asked about this a few times lately. I’ll be making a video about it soon.
I’m in the midst of this task on my 390. I mixed up the rocker arms . Heard I might have to adjust valves , correct and if so how plz !?☺️ oddly I’m not seeing instructions on my manual. Thx. Great vid!
I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW MANY ENGINES WERE RUINED BY WELL MEANING PEOPLE OVERDOING IT WITH RTV ENDING UP WHERE IT DOESN'T BELONG MOSTLY IN THE PICKUP SCREEN .
Edge2 Sword
Very true!
No way would I put that cork on the China walls. After that engine heat cycles a few dozen times it will start shrinking and leak.
Vintage Dashboard
I would be some what inclined to agree if the is build had a new intake, dependent on the China wall to intake end gaps. However for this application I’m confident in the decision to use the cork. Also note that I sealed the cork with aviation sealer. That really helps it not dry out and leak.
350cfm