Been doing this for years. I use the cork baskets... drill small shallow holes in the block. Insert short bits of coat hanger. (Short - not through the gasket) keeps it aligned during install. (Much less gasket maker) (4-5 pieces). I don’t like messy gasket maker squirting out.... Shallow in areas and overload in others. Workers quite well - multiple engines. Taught buy an old fe man.
Thanks for the video. I am getting ready to put an Edelbrock intake on my 70 Truck with 390. I have built engines and even replaced a 390 intake before on a 65 Merc, but the one thing you mentioned that I didn't think about was dropping the distributor in before torquing. I guess there could be just enough play in it to cause issues with the distributor fitment but I would not have thought so. I was planning to use RTV on the front and rear deck and water ports, but I was planning to use Edelbrock Gasgacinch around the intake ports, or nothing at all. Really was just going to use it to keep the gaskets in place while dropping it on.
I am watching all the FE engine rebuilds to get good ideas so I won’t mess up hopefully when building a 390 fe for my highboy 73 pickup I bought I have got to get a block but my cousin has one he said he sell me but I will have to tear it down and clean it up and see what it needs being it’s been sitting in a dirt floor in a shed
I had to use sealer on an intake bolt on a 351W that went into the water jacket but never on an FE. But now I know why I have oil on my intake. There are peculiarities assembling an FE. The oil galley plug that gets left out leading to low or no oil pressure. The freeze plug at the back for the cam that goes in with the dished side in. The rocker arm shaft bolts with slightly different lengths and the proper shaft orientation with the oil holes for the rockers. And of course the tricky intake manifold. Anyone else crack flexplates? I've put two in in the last 5 years.
ThunderHead289 I have issues with the bolts in the rear (closest to firewall) they will only screw in 1/4 turn and stop. I did use the cork gasket, which was on there initially. Do you think that will make a difference in the bolts catching the threads?
i would say, check to make sure the bolts are the same length as the others, I seem to think the outer bolts were shorter, take a look at the thickness of the intake manifold on a bolt that works vs where the bolt seems to be too long. go from there. I try to not use the cork gaskets and just use gasket sealer, but each person has their preference.
Luke, VW head John here. That VW in the background looks to be 68, 69, or 70. Am I correct? Also, is there a 4bbl intake for this engine? My buddy is going to give me a fuel injection system for a 4bbl and I currently have a 2bbl intake. Or, is there an adapter? Still going through all your videos. Thanks my man.
My 352 gasket set came with self-adhesive front/rear neoprene sealing strips and I also have a tube of the "Right Stuff" sealer like you're using. From this video and some comments I'm inclined to skip the strips and use sealer only. Could I, should I use both? (sealer over the strips) The motor is in the truck and I don't want to do this job more than once! Thanks for any replies.
Definitely do not use the gaskets. If the engines have ever had any work in their lifetime, those gaskets can hold the intake up and cause coolant and vacuum leaks. If you have everything good and cleaned off well, using solvents to remove the oils so the I take can seal, you will be good to go with the sealer. Do it right, and you will not have any issues. Never used "the right stuff" always just went with black perma Tex or versa Chem sealer
Okay then, that settles it. I'll use the "Right Stuff" only. It's supposed to be the latest and greatest. (I thought that's what you were using without really taking a good look) Thank you very much for your reply. It's gonna be a helluva job bulling that thing out of there and repositioning it carefully. Thanks again.
Sealing the FE intake fails with most builders. Why? Look at the design; the intake must nestle in a 'V' and descend ALL THE WAY while bolts are pulling it to the sides. That's why we don't use the block gaskets. Any force holding the manifold up stops the descent. Anything that lets the manifold slide down helps, like using flat washers under the heads.I torque mine LIGHTLY at first, then gently tap the manifold AND THE BOLTS on the side of their heads. I can see more downward movement as the bolts appear to slide up. Give a little more bolt torque and do the same again. 'Greasing' the intake gaskets with thin sealer makes sense to stop dry gasket squirm which normally distorts a good gasket, making it leak. Yes, leak. Not just coolant but vacuum. Look online at loads of distorted FE gaskets (installed by novice builders). Now you know why, all you Chevy and Chrysler builders. We simply have to live with this design and deal with it using successful techniques. If you don't, get ready to buy more intake gaskets to re-do your work..
The only fail I had was at trying to use silicone as the front and rear intake manifold gasket strip replacement . A tube of 3M weather stripping adhesive glue under each strip gasket and let it set up for an hour and the gasket strips will not move when setting down the intake . Jmo . And a dab of silicone in the corners .
Just curious why you didn't use the front intake gaskets. Im using feeler Ms90145 gasket and it does;t seem to fit properly on my 360. Im using a edelbrock 390 intake manifold. Should i use gasket sealer and do away with the gasket. the engine is for a farm truck and will likely be replaced in the next year.
I suggest using sealer personally, and many builders do. If there are any irregularities, it easy accounts for the variance. I've never had leaks using sealer. Just use good quality sealer specific for the application.
I know this is kind of an old video, but did you put the RTV on both sides of the gasket? hard to tell in the vid it looks like one side. I'll be doing it this week because I am getting an oil leak from the front and back of my intake (the gaskets must have been used) I'm not sure if my intake has ever been off, hard to tell.
a little bit of a throwback for me - i dont get to work with my dad on things too much these days. this was for a truck, so i wanted to make sure everything just sealed. very light coat of sealer on both sides as well as using sealer for the front and back - those cork gaskets shrink down pretty quick and everything starts to leak.
Thanks bud... later this week ill be pulling mine, but it freaking snowed in my part of Iowa last night and there isn't heat in my shop, so I think ill give it a couple days lol
@@ThunderHead289 what kind of sealer did you use? I am putting together a 390 and there is some pitting on the intake manifold gasket area so I plan on using copper seal to help fill in for the pitted metal.
40 years in the repair industry.. have never ever sealed around intake ports.. IF they are not sealing or not correctly lining up, you have an intake issue..
@@hankfink Have never encountered one that has been torqued down so tight as to ruin the sealing surface.. Not saying it could not happen, just not very common.. Most gaskets are in the .060 range of thickness. There are "thick" gaskets available (*upwards of .120) you could use.. Problem with sealants is that gasoline eats them for lunch.. Using them just kind of ensures that it will be melted to some extent.. There are sealants that hold up better to gasoline (Permatex No 3 is one of them).. Just do not see the need for them in automotive.. I would suggest checking the manifold (machinist straight edge) and if it is bent that bad? a simple clean up with a good file or take it to a machine shop for some clean up.. The FE has unique sealing issues and milling is an option.. In all reality, an FE manifold requires a "dry fit" to check actual clearances of the manifold to the head and block.. Appropriate actions can be taken from there.. Whether it is machining or thick gaskets.. Four things need to be known.. the gap between the intake and the head, parallelism of intake to head and the gap to the china wall.. Do not have these specs handy but should be available with a quick web search.. guessing around .030 to head (probably no more and about .005 out of parallel and something over .100 to the china wall.. (only guesstimates here, could be off by a good bit).. This all needs checked using the installed distributor to align manifold.. And finally, you can look at the manifold/head top where the valve cover will seal... I would guess no more than .010 to .020 difference.. IMO, the slobbering of any sealant is just a hack trying to cover a true mechanical issue that should be addressed... It works (for now) is not a fix for doing it right IMO.. Too much money invested :) not to insult the guy that did this video but of one of my tech's installed a manifold like this? he would be out the door... my customers pay for "doing it right".. :) the only sealant should be on the water ports (thin smear not a bead) and the china walls (healthy bead, no gaskets) What he did will in the end, release that sealant inside the motor and land in the oil pump..
What's the difference between putting rtv around all the ports on the heads and on the gaskets vs only putting rtv around the water ports and install the gaskets dry?
Hi .. I am having a issue starting my 390 after rebuild , I checked for spark and volts at the positive coil and I at the ign solinoid it has 11and some change in start mode and 6 v in run mode I seen spark at the points when cap is off and my son got shocked holding the number 1 plug out while engine cranking . I am running a spacer and a 500 cfm Holly 4412s the distributor was set at number 1 and I put the timing cover on the dots were lined up and the crank was exactly on TDC from the rebuild shop I put the balancer on and it lined up TDC I put enough gas in the float bowl ,and in carb throat I cranked it 5/6 seconds at a time but too many times already I don't even get a pop or a fart or any indication that motor is alive . I heard even if your off one notch on dist the engine will still run ? The only thing I can gather is it possible that the engine shop timed it to the exaust stroke on TDC ? If so can I rotate 180 and pull distributor turn it set at number 1 and try again ? Will it damage anything ,? I'm at a loss as why I don't even get a backfire or stumble I turned distributor all the way to left and right and nothing ?????? I'm lost here .it's a 69 Ford f 259 camper special thanks .....
If your timing gears are 180 off it won't start obviously. Pull the number one plug turn the crank with a big wrench or breaker bar and socket have someone put finger over #1 while lining the timing dots . It will blow ur finger off the hole when it hits top dead center . If needed take a screwdriver and gently put in spark hole to make sure it's at the top. It won't go in far at all. Then set ur distributor back in after u made sure it's TDC.
Funny thing I changed the voltage regulator and it fired right up don't know how that came into play since I had spark ....I'm now running a 1 wire 140 amp alternator and did away with the old system bypassed the resistor wire on ign and running Pertronix 3
@@TheThirdWheel618 I was going to mention the voltage regulator as well. My pops had the same issue one day his truck wouldn't start but it still has spark. Just wasn't enough spark . He has a 76 F250 explorer factory high boy. Has a 390 bored .60 over but the engine is from a 72 he thinks. Somewhere around there. He put an RV cam when it was rebuilt but it wasn't running right. I guess they have to be degreed when u put a cam other than stock . The valves were not closing all the way so it was backfiring and stuff. He's got a new stock cam now putting it all back together . But yeah he had to replace voltage regulator one day out of nowhere it just died and wouldn't start.
@@jeremyvasquez9508 That is strange wierd as well is I removed all that when I put on the 1 wire 140 amp alt but 1 tiny yellow wire if it was not grounded there was no power at all to the truck the wire is no more than 12 gauge . Without it grounded there was no headlights , tail , interior nothing
678friedbed dont use the front or rear gaskets, just sealer. there are alot of geometries that go into the intake manifold and doing it this way allows all the room the side gaskets need to seat correctly. they are the most important. if not seated with full pressure then vacuum leaks and coolant in the oil all ensue. look up using sealer instead of the gaskets. all engine builders do this. saves a lot of grief and when the right sealer is used, it lasts forever.
@thunderhead: so what you are saying is even though it comes from the factory the factory with a gasket there and a little bit of RTV in the corners. Even though the dealership mechanic instructions say to do so. And that my Grandfather being a dealership mechanic while the 390 was new coming off of the production line. You falsely claim that all engine rebuilders do what you did even though just using RTV is a sign of pour workmanship in the industry. When done right with proper gaskets you will will not have any problems.
i worked at a classic car garage. and take this into mind. these engines are old, many of the heads or decked get planed throughout the years. i plane my heads and often i take some off of my block decks to get proper quench. (im assuming i need not explain quench to you). when these things are done, the geometries have changed and the front and back gasket area has become smaller. a regular thickness gasket will not allow the intake to seat properly on the heads when this has been done. that is my reasoning. iv said the silicone was bs just as you did and i payed for it with a leaking intake. twice. silicone if the right type is used works great and accounts for these variations. they did not have silicone gasket MAKER like we do today back in the 60s 70s or even 80s. only in reason years has the stuff gotten good enough. i never have once had a leak yet.
iv seen way to many chevy's covered in orange goo and Fords with black RTV oozing out of all sorts of places because the idiot could drop 20 dollars on the right gasket sets. have you ever considered getting a thinner gasket or buying gasket material in the right thickness and doing the job right? Also its a Quark and rubber gasket you would have to at least take off 1/16th on material on both sides to make a difference. Its a Ford those things were quiet literally slapped together by someone that was only trained on how to put the bolts in and usually had no clue as to what was actually going on. your trying to act like there is some sort of precision here. again RTV is a sign of pour workmanship and trying to pinch pennies. a couple of thousandths off the intake side of the head wont make a difference. stop trying to prove what your doing is right and just admit that you use RTV to skimp out and not spend the extra 2 or 3 dollars on the right stuff.
+ThunderHead289 1 year later and yep still no leaks after doing the right way. because the Ford dealership Mechanics actually know what they are doing.
Damn. It. I used copper gasket spray on top and bottom of cork gaskets both front and rear. Aluminum dual plane intake and factory 428 heads. So you are saying since the engine has been rebuilt and decked that the factory sized gaskets will not properly seal vacuum? And that this is most likely why the brakes do not hardly work... and that why mine sounds like a huge air pump... and that it has super low oil pressure... and... that it... well shit. What do you think ThunderHead289?
+ThunderHead289 Absolutely not. Sorry if it seemed that way. I'm just reeling in disbelief that I'd been so careless when taking my manifold off to diagnose a misfire.
+Jack Whitley if she has been decked, I wouldn't use the cork stuff. If everything does seal, the cork will still eventually leak. I can't say it's causing all of that, but it can definitely cause vacuum leaks and related issues, worst of all, it can cause the engine to run lean which leads to bigger more expensive issues when out under a hard load repeatedly.
+ThunderHead289 Thanks man. I appreciate your videos on this FE engine a lot. My baby, a '66 LTD, is getting a 428 with a C6 very soon. Your comment has pinpointed all the troubleshooting I've had done (lean, too little vacuum, low oil pressure, then overheat). Parting out the parts car, another '66, after install. Rock the fuck on dude.
@@ThunderHead289 what is that flat piece of metal under the intake manifold in between the heads? Am currently changing my gaskets on my 390 and it didn't have that part when I took off the intake!
When I rebuilt my 390 in my thunderbird I forgot to install the metal tin intake manifold tray. I have been driving ever since for about 4 months no problems. Besides oil splashing alittle on the underside of the intake, is there any real problems?
Its called the valley pan bud..& it also keeps your intake cooler thus having a cooler air/fuel mix.. (it run even better if installed) keep that charge /intake cooler
@@OGSHAKER2020 I had to reinstall my Edelbrock intake manifold so I installed the oil splash pan👍 and blocked off the heat cross over from the head to the intake manifold using stainless shim cut to size and copper high temp rtv. Good to go now.
Those Ford FEs have an odd design. On the sides intake manifold are a part of the cylinder head that comes together when it's mounted on the engine. You have to make sure that there are no oil leaks where parts are meeting, like valve cover gaskets.
Авто/Мото
I'm currently rebuilding my 360 fe so I've been watching all your old rebuld/install videos they have been so helpful. Thanks bud
Been doing this for years. I use the cork baskets... drill small shallow holes in the block. Insert short bits of coat hanger. (Short - not through the gasket) keeps it aligned during install. (Much less gasket maker) (4-5 pieces).
I don’t like messy gasket maker squirting out.... Shallow in areas and overload in others.
Workers quite well - multiple engines. Taught buy an old fe man.
The fact that you have a bug back there makes me love this video even more 😍
Thanks for the video. I am getting ready to put an Edelbrock intake on my 70 Truck with 390. I have built engines and even replaced a 390 intake before on a 65 Merc, but the one thing you mentioned that I didn't think about was dropping the distributor in before torquing. I guess there could be just enough play in it to cause issues with the distributor fitment but I would not have thought so. I was planning to use RTV on the front and rear deck and water ports, but I was planning to use Edelbrock Gasgacinch around the intake ports, or nothing at all. Really was just going to use it to keep the gaskets in place while dropping it on.
I am watching all the FE engine rebuilds to get good ideas so I won’t mess up hopefully when building a 390 fe for my highboy 73 pickup I bought I have got to get a block but my cousin has one he said he sell me but I will have to tear it down and clean it up and see what it needs being it’s been sitting in a dirt floor in a shed
Now I know who went nuts with RTV silicone on the engine I took apart .
I worked on a plow truck one time oil pan leak. Ton of blue silicone gaskett and silicone squeeze out leaking silicone in oil pick up screen. A lot
Just nice to see you didn’t hoist it in👍😂. It’s a very heavy part
I had to use sealer on an intake bolt on a 351W that went into the water jacket but never on an FE. But now I know why I have oil on my intake. There are peculiarities assembling an FE. The oil galley plug that gets left out leading to low or no oil pressure. The freeze plug at the back for the cam that goes in with the dished side in. The rocker arm shaft bolts with slightly different lengths and the proper shaft orientation with the oil holes for the rockers. And of course the tricky intake manifold. Anyone else crack flexplates? I've put two in in the last 5 years.
Restoring a 1965 ford thunderbird special landua . Thank you.
What gasket sealer are you putting on the intake port gaskets ?
So to install the intake, I just walk up to it and the intake is on by itself? Just have to tighten the bolts?
ThunderHead289 I have issues with the bolts in the rear (closest to firewall) they will only screw in 1/4 turn and stop. I did use the cork gasket, which was on there initially. Do you think that will make a difference in the bolts catching the threads?
i would say, check to make sure the bolts are the same length as the others, I seem to think the outer bolts were shorter, take a look at the thickness of the intake manifold on a bolt that works vs where the bolt seems to be too long. go from there. I try to not use the cork gaskets and just use gasket sealer, but each person has their preference.
Luke, VW head John here. That VW in the background looks to be 68, 69, or 70. Am I correct? Also, is there a 4bbl intake for this engine? My buddy is going to give me a fuel injection system for a 4bbl and I currently have a 2bbl intake. Or, is there an adapter? Still going through all your videos. Thanks my man.
What is the name of the Logan berry song?
My 352 gasket set came with self-adhesive front/rear neoprene sealing strips and I also have a tube of the "Right Stuff" sealer like you're using. From this video and some comments I'm inclined to skip the strips and use sealer only. Could I, should I use both? (sealer over the strips) The motor is in the truck and I don't want to do this job more than once! Thanks for any replies.
Definitely do not use the gaskets. If the engines have ever had any work in their lifetime, those gaskets can hold the intake up and cause coolant and vacuum leaks. If you have everything good and cleaned off well, using solvents to remove the oils so the I take can seal, you will be good to go with the sealer. Do it right, and you will not have any issues. Never used "the right stuff" always just went with black perma Tex or versa Chem sealer
Okay then, that settles it. I'll use the "Right Stuff" only. It's supposed to be the latest and greatest. (I thought that's what you were using without really taking a good look) Thank you very much for your reply. It's gonna be a helluva job bulling that thing out of there and repositioning it carefully. Thanks again.
Its the same, 352-360-
Sealing the FE intake fails with most builders. Why? Look at the design; the intake must nestle in a 'V' and descend ALL THE WAY while bolts are pulling it to the sides. That's why we don't use the block gaskets. Any force holding the manifold up stops the descent. Anything that lets the manifold slide down helps, like using flat washers under the heads.I torque mine LIGHTLY at first, then gently tap the manifold AND THE BOLTS on the side of their heads. I can see more downward movement as the bolts appear to slide up. Give a little more bolt torque and do the same again. 'Greasing' the intake gaskets with thin sealer makes sense to stop dry gasket squirm which normally distorts a good gasket, making it leak. Yes, leak. Not just coolant but vacuum. Look online at loads of distorted FE gaskets (installed by novice builders). Now you know why, all you Chevy and Chrysler builders. We simply have to live with this design and deal with it using successful techniques. If you don't, get ready to buy more intake gaskets to re-do your work..
+simplyconnected every small block engine is designed for this wedge design. easiest item to mess up on engines.
Some engines (like Pontiac) have bolts that go straight down into the heads, pulling the intake straight down.
okay, fair enough. if you are referring to the bolt angle then yes you would be right. this is another reason i prefer the sbf over the sbc
The only fail I had was at trying to use silicone as the front and rear intake manifold gasket strip replacement .
A tube of 3M weather stripping adhesive glue under each strip gasket and let it set up for an hour and the gasket strips will not move when setting down the intake . Jmo . And a dab of silicone in the corners .
Just curious why you didn't use the front intake gaskets. Im using feeler Ms90145 gasket and it does;t seem to fit properly on my 360. Im using a edelbrock 390 intake manifold. Should i use gasket sealer and do away with the gasket. the engine is for a farm truck and will likely be replaced in the next year.
I suggest using sealer personally, and many builders do. If there are any irregularities, it easy accounts for the variance. I've never had leaks using sealer. Just use good quality sealer specific for the application.
T Mack they make only cork gaskets for them. But they shrink and leak.
Please answer this hahah would the torque for an Edlebrock manifold be 32-35 as well? If you might know thanks.
Also wondering, Noticed they didn't use washers on the cast manifold. I'm assuming that would be a must on a performer intake.
will 360 rods work on 390 crank
I know this is kind of an old video, but did you put the RTV on both sides of the gasket? hard to tell in the vid it looks like one side. I'll be doing it this week because I am getting an oil leak from the front and back of my intake (the gaskets must have been used) I'm not sure if my intake has ever been off, hard to tell.
a little bit of a throwback for me - i dont get to work with my dad on things too much these days.
this was for a truck, so i wanted to make sure everything just sealed. very light coat of sealer on both sides as well as using sealer for the front and back - those cork gaskets shrink down pretty quick and everything starts to leak.
Thanks bud... later this week ill be pulling mine, but it freaking snowed in my part of Iowa last night and there isn't heat in my shop, so I think ill give it a couple days lol
HiltsBilt man I hear you - some serious snow today, that’s for dang sure!
@@ThunderHead289 what kind of sealer did you use? I am putting together a 390 and there is some pitting on the intake manifold gasket area so I plan on using copper seal to help fill in for the pitted metal.
40 years in the repair industry.. have never ever sealed around intake ports.. IF they are not sealing or not correctly lining up, you have an intake issue..
I hear this is more important with aluminum intakes since each runner can warp a bit. Any advice for re-using an old aluminum intake?
@@hankfink Have never encountered one that has been torqued down so tight as to ruin the sealing surface.. Not saying it could not happen, just not very common..
Most gaskets are in the .060 range of thickness. There are "thick" gaskets available (*upwards of .120) you could use..
Problem with sealants is that gasoline eats them for lunch.. Using them just kind of ensures that it will be melted to some extent..
There are sealants that hold up better to gasoline (Permatex No 3 is one of them).. Just do not see the need for them in automotive..
I would suggest checking the manifold (machinist straight edge) and if it is bent that bad? a simple clean up with a good file or take it to a machine shop for some clean up..
The FE has unique sealing issues and milling is an option.. In all reality, an FE manifold requires a "dry fit" to check actual clearances of the manifold to the head and block.. Appropriate actions can be taken from there.. Whether it is machining or thick gaskets..
Four things need to be known.. the gap between the intake and the head, parallelism of intake to head and the gap to the china wall.. Do not have these specs handy but should be available with a quick web search.. guessing around .030 to head (probably no more and about .005 out of parallel and something over .100 to the china wall.. (only guesstimates here, could be off by a good bit).. This all needs checked using the installed distributor to align manifold.. And finally, you can look at the manifold/head top where the valve cover will seal... I would guess no more than .010 to .020 difference..
IMO, the slobbering of any sealant is just a hack trying to cover a true mechanical issue that should be addressed... It works (for now) is not a fix for doing it right IMO.. Too much money invested :) not to insult the guy that did this video but of one of my tech's installed a manifold like this? he would be out the door... my customers pay for "doing it right".. :) the only sealant should be on the water ports (thin smear not a bead) and the china walls (healthy bead, no gaskets) What he did will in the end, release that sealant inside the motor and land in the oil pump..
Will an edelbrock performer / RPM intake sold for a 390 also fit a 360? The website doesn’t exactly say but it’s essentially the same block right?
Correct, it’s the same - even for a 352 I think
What black RTV and orange gasket sealant did you use?
Permatex
What's the difference between putting rtv around all the ports on the heads and on the gaskets vs only putting rtv around the water ports and install the gaskets dry?
Some RTV is gasoline soluble. So if you don't know the difference, don't use any around the intake ports.
What about valley pan?
Hi .. I am having a issue starting my 390 after rebuild , I checked for spark and volts at the positive coil and I at the ign solinoid it has 11and some change in start mode and 6 v in run mode I seen spark at the points when cap is off and my son got shocked holding the number 1 plug out while engine cranking . I am running a spacer and a 500 cfm Holly 4412s the distributor was set at number 1 and I put the timing cover on the dots were lined up and the crank was exactly on TDC from the rebuild shop I put the balancer on and it lined up TDC I put enough gas in the float bowl ,and in carb throat I cranked it 5/6 seconds at a time but too many times already I don't even get a pop or a fart or any indication that motor is alive .
I heard even if your off one notch on dist the engine will still run ? The only thing I can gather is it possible that the engine shop timed it to the exaust stroke on TDC ? If so can I rotate 180 and pull distributor turn it set at number 1 and try again ? Will it damage anything ,? I'm at a loss as why I don't even get a backfire or stumble I turned distributor all the way to left and right and nothing ?????? I'm lost here .it's a 69 Ford f 259 camper special thanks .....
If your timing gears are 180 off it won't start obviously. Pull the number one plug turn the crank with a big wrench or breaker bar and socket have someone put finger over #1 while lining the timing dots . It will blow ur finger off the hole when it hits top dead center . If needed take a screwdriver and gently put in spark hole to make sure it's at the top. It won't go in far at all. Then set ur distributor back in after u made sure it's TDC.
Funny thing I changed the voltage regulator and it fired right up don't know how that came into play since I had spark ....I'm now running a 1 wire 140 amp alternator and did away with the old system bypassed the resistor wire on ign and running Pertronix 3
Although when I was using the points setup untill I changed the voltage regulator it wouldn't start
@@TheThirdWheel618 I was going to mention the voltage regulator as well. My pops had the same issue one day his truck wouldn't start but it still has spark. Just wasn't enough spark . He has a 76 F250 explorer factory high boy. Has a 390 bored .60 over but the engine is from a 72 he thinks. Somewhere around there. He put an RV cam when it was rebuilt but it wasn't running right. I guess they have to be degreed when u put a cam other than stock . The valves were not closing all the way so it was backfiring and stuff. He's got a new stock cam now putting it all back together . But yeah he had to replace voltage regulator one day out of nowhere it just died and wouldn't start.
@@jeremyvasquez9508
That is strange wierd as well is I removed all that when I put on the 1 wire 140 amp alt but 1 tiny yellow wire if it was not grounded there was no power at all to the truck the wire is no more than 12 gauge .
Without it grounded there was no headlights , tail , interior nothing
Use the gaskets with RTV the instructions say to use RTV in the corners to seal it up.
678friedbed dont use the front or rear gaskets, just sealer. there are alot of geometries that go into the intake manifold and doing it this way allows all the room the side gaskets need to seat correctly. they are the most important. if not seated with full pressure then vacuum leaks and coolant in the oil all ensue. look up using sealer instead of the gaskets. all engine builders do this. saves a lot of grief and when the right sealer is used, it lasts forever.
@thunderhead: so what you are saying is even though it comes from the factory the factory with a gasket there and a little bit of RTV in the corners. Even though the dealership mechanic instructions say to do so. And that my Grandfather being a dealership mechanic while the 390 was new coming off of the production line. You falsely claim that all engine rebuilders do what you did even though just using RTV is a sign of pour workmanship in the industry. When done right with proper gaskets you will will not have any problems.
i worked at a classic car garage. and take this into mind. these engines are old, many of the heads or decked get planed throughout the years. i plane my heads and often i take some off of my block decks to get proper quench. (im assuming i need not explain quench to you). when these things are done, the geometries have changed and the front and back gasket area has become smaller. a regular thickness gasket will not allow the intake to seat properly on the heads when this has been done. that is my reasoning. iv said the silicone was bs just as you did and i payed for it with a leaking intake. twice. silicone if the right type is used works great and accounts for these variations. they did not have silicone gasket MAKER like we do today back in the 60s 70s or even 80s. only in reason years has the stuff gotten good enough. i never have once had a leak yet.
iv seen way to many chevy's covered in orange goo and Fords with black RTV oozing out of all sorts of places because the idiot could drop 20 dollars on the right gasket sets. have you ever considered getting a thinner gasket or buying gasket material in the right thickness and doing the job right? Also its a Quark and rubber gasket you would have to at least take off 1/16th on material on both sides to make a difference. Its a Ford those things were quiet literally slapped together by someone that was only trained on how to put the bolts in and usually had no clue as to what was actually going on. your trying to act like there is some sort of precision here. again RTV is a sign of pour workmanship and trying to pinch pennies. a couple of thousandths off the intake side of the head wont make a difference. stop trying to prove what your doing is right and just admit that you use RTV to skimp out and not spend the extra 2 or 3 dollars on the right stuff.
+ThunderHead289 1 year later and yep still no leaks after doing the right way. because the Ford dealership Mechanics actually know what they are doing.
I never had to use gasket sealer on intake to head. I do use weather strip cement on the "Great Wall of China" gaskets. Never a leak.
Damn. It. I used copper gasket spray on top and bottom of cork gaskets both front and rear. Aluminum dual plane intake and factory 428 heads. So you are saying since the engine has been rebuilt and decked that the factory sized gaskets will not properly seal vacuum? And that this is most likely why the brakes do not hardly work... and that why mine sounds like a huge air pump... and that it has super low oil pressure... and... that it... well shit. What do you think ThunderHead289?
Are you mocking me....
+ThunderHead289 Absolutely not. Sorry if it seemed that way. I'm just reeling in disbelief that I'd been so careless when taking my manifold off to diagnose a misfire.
+ThunderHead289 I'm actually blown away by exactly how you've made me realize I did it exactly wrong...
+Jack Whitley if she has been decked, I wouldn't use the cork stuff. If everything does seal, the cork will still eventually leak. I can't say it's causing all of that, but it can definitely cause vacuum leaks and related issues, worst of all, it can cause the engine to run lean which leads to bigger more expensive issues when out under a hard load repeatedly.
+ThunderHead289 Thanks man. I appreciate your videos on this FE engine a lot. My baby, a '66 LTD, is getting a 428 with a C6 very soon. Your comment has pinpointed all the troubleshooting I've had done (lean, too little vacuum, low oil pressure, then overheat). Parting out the parts car, another '66, after install. Rock the fuck on dude.
what is the orange silicone you are using?
permatex 81422
428 intake is same as 390 and 360 though right?
+The Ford Mechanix different size, but indeed the same process I believe
@@ThunderHead289 what is that flat piece of metal under the intake manifold in between the heads? Am currently changing my gaskets on my 390 and it didn't have that part when I took off the intake!
What coolant do you use in the 390?
I always used Prestone green..
When I rebuilt my 390 in my thunderbird I forgot to install the metal tin intake manifold tray. I have been driving ever since for about 4 months no problems. Besides oil splashing alittle on the underside of the intake, is there any real problems?
The valley Sheild is to keep oil from splashing on the egr through manifold and burning the oil.
Its called the valley pan bud..& it also keeps your intake cooler thus having a cooler air/fuel mix.. (it run even better if installed) keep that charge /intake cooler
@@OGSHAKER2020 I had to reinstall my Edelbrock intake manifold so I installed the oil splash pan👍 and blocked off the heat cross over from the head to the intake manifold using stainless shim cut to size and copper high temp rtv. Good to go now.
@@michaeljohnston6239good job yessirrrr, I just use the gaskets with those heat exchangers blocked off
Hard to watch putting back on that 2 barrel boat anchor. Why did you not put a Edelbrock intake on it? Just curious
Probably because it's over 500 dollars
@@ThunderHead289
What car is this going in?
Those Ford FEs have an odd design. On the sides intake manifold are a part of the cylinder head that comes together when it's mounted on the engine. You have to make sure that there are no oil leaks where parts are meeting, like valve cover gaskets.
allrighty then
Ive been doing it wrong all this time..
such a mess all that silicone !! hate seeing all that crap on a engine . Works good if you know how to use it and not pile it a mile high. Rookies
Lol thunderhead289, a rookie
Anytime silicone is used, you will have massive air leak in 10 minutes.
False.