I've learnt so much from this guy hope I can rebuild mine.I've never buildt one but I'm going to give it my best shot.thank you for all the info.I'm on point with all your teaching.
What you said at 1:03 is so true the original engine in my Ford Capri lost all oil pressure and was toast because the oil pump drive snapped driving at 100mph on the Autobahn in Germany, a replacement engine was put in and it's still running strong but if i rebuild the engine i will replace that for sure!
seeing the cam keeper laying there reminded me of a Time when I was a teenager and bought a used 390 out of a Thunderbird to put in one of my pickups and the cam keeper actually broke and was allowing my cam to walk forward and let me tell you about the noise that made when that cam was trying to swap lifters half of the lobes were torn off and the bottom of the lifters look like somebody cut them with pinking shears they were actually zig zag on the bottom
Have only done a couple Ford motors...in fact the whole truth is had my Dad's mechanic walk me thru and pretty much hold my hand through the process of building a 302 and a 390..but that fuel pump eccentric on the end of the cam still brings back some memories of thinking "how lame is that?" since I'm a GM guy...well in retrospect it must be a pretty good design because it was around for a LONG time and stood the test of time..but every time I see that still think.."how does that pressed steel thing not just grenade under heavy engine load?" Guess the engineers are are why we mechanics still scratch our noggins and just say "ok"..LOL!
LS1 use Ford H.O. 302 firing order. The layout and spacing of the intake and exhaust ports is very symmetrical like the Fords too. Not sure how this isn't obvious.
@@Myvintageiron7512 you're right, I did see that. Made the comment and forgot to go back and edit it. You're FE info is spot on man. I Even re watch the same videos. Good stuff.
Where are you from. I've inherited a bunch of motors blocks and parts. 350, 400, 454, lq9. Some I would like to keep for a future but that is up in the air at the moment. If your in Texas or Louisiana. If your interested in something let me know.
enjoying this series as a spectator, bad luck for the owner...not much left from the original except rods and some hardware. was the engine run severely overheated? did that cause all the cracks? it looked like some of the water jacket was corroded almost closed
Yea a combination of restricted water passages and over heating but remember this engine is nearly 50 years old so this kind of stuff is not really suprizing
Greetings! Can I ask you a question regarding a 1969 Ford Mustang with a 390 engine? We are repairing such an engine and cannot find the dimensions of the crankshaft and piston liners.
i was at pick a part and theres a 66 LTD in there I couldn't find any ID marks on the block and the vin was gone it's a 4v that's about all I could tell about it.
Well then.... The engine that is chugging your way today is just a block. It is very clean and was just bored .30 over. I just posted an update to my saga videos here: ruclips.net/video/5HxSMoNPXWk/видео.html there is not much truck video yet, but I hope to have something useful to upload soon. Thank you vintageiron for being so thorough with my engine and all of the help through this process.
Yeah I guess we should add that bit of info in here I recorded this before we had that conversation, also I have a guy asking to buy your 390 crank and rods this could possable offset some of the cost I will talk to you later offline about that
Hi would it be possible to contact you in private about the 390 crank and rods i would be interested in them if you would be willing to prep them and ship to northern cal. thanks i really like you channel.
You can Message me on Facebook at myvintageiron7512 just keep in mind the Crank and Rods do not belong to me I understand you are wanting to build a 390 possably out of a 360, they may be available but we will need to get the owner of the engine involved I can ask him if he is interested in selling them shoot me a Facebook Mess and I can out you in touch with him
So you basically have nothing from that entire engine that you can re use other than a few insignificant parts. Your now basically building a crate motor from here on out not rebuilding a 390 FE.
The problem is with building ford engines, they are so much more expensive on parts than building a chevy. I mean you can build a stout 383 stroker for much less than you can do say a 351 with a 400 crank and decent heads a cam etc etc.. I mean if I were going to build a ford engine, I'd get a good 460 block, a set of aluminium cobra jet style heads and a decent intake and a fat roller cam. Basically turn it into a 460 CJ , but a little bit warmer. But I'd be out a lot more than doing something like your 502 build for example. I'd love to see you do a chevy W series 348 or 409 build, or maybe an Oldsmobile 400 / 425 / 455 . I like the look of the rocker covers on the series 1 chevy bigblocks and the twin snout air cleaners on the Oldsmobile engines looked cool also.
Lots of indications early on it would end up here. Terrible looking pistons, oh that's typical, bearings down to copper, oh that's normal, rebuild with an overbore at age 10, signs of overheat.... This engine is a story of some combination of neglect - abuse - bad design. All explained away as normal and typical.
it looks like the crack was in the water jacket near the bore and welding it probably wouldnt hold. the coolant is under pressure and would seep through into the oil. also, the block is cast iron and a weld is hard steel, two different metals that expand and contract at different rates, the weld will fail.
Lol I fix cracks like that all the time in my shop , use tap plugs to stitch the crack up . I just did a 7 inch crack on a 340 Mopar that ran from the lifter bore clear to the deck .
I've learnt so much from this guy hope I can rebuild mine.I've never buildt one but I'm going to give it my best shot.thank you for all the info.I'm on point with all your teaching.
What you said at 1:03 is so true the original engine in my Ford Capri lost all oil pressure and was toast because the oil pump drive snapped driving at 100mph on the Autobahn in Germany, a replacement engine was put in and it's still running strong but if i rebuild the engine i will replace that for sure!
seeing the cam keeper laying there reminded me of a Time when I was a teenager and bought a used 390 out of a Thunderbird to put in one of my pickups and the cam keeper actually broke and was allowing my cam to walk forward and let me tell you about the noise that made when that cam was trying to swap lifters half of the lobes were torn off and the bottom of the lifters look like somebody cut them with pinking shears they were actually zig zag on the bottom
Good video, i enjoy your videos. Tom in Portland OR (where it never rains) LOL
Have only done a couple Ford motors...in fact the whole truth is had my Dad's mechanic walk me thru and pretty much hold my hand through the process of building a 302 and a 390..but that fuel pump eccentric on the end of the cam still brings back some memories of thinking "how lame is that?" since I'm a GM guy...well in retrospect it must be a pretty good design because it was around for a LONG time and stood the test of time..but every time I see that still think.."how does that pressed steel thing not just grenade under heavy engine load?" Guess the engineers are are why we mechanics still scratch our noggins and just say "ok"..LOL!
Having fun with u. . Gotta 105 mirror taking alot of your advice . gonna be some scat in this .
LS1 use Ford H.O. 302 firing order. The layout and spacing of the intake and exhaust ports is very symmetrical like the Fords too. Not sure how this isn't obvious.
Yeah he kind of contradicted himself towards the end.
Thats a shame, but at least you have another one on the way
I highly recommend an oil pump drive shaft from ARP. (Edit: its used here.) Yes, it costs money. But so does building and FE.
Yep if you watch the entire series you will see one
@@Myvintageiron7512 you're right, I did see that. Made the comment and forgot to go back and edit it.
You're FE info is spot on man. I Even re watch the same videos. Good stuff.
I was wanting to know the place you buy your FE engine parts? I think you said in one of your videos. I just don't know which video that was.
Don't you stitch weld those type cracks ? It's in the water jacket but doesn't seem to affect cylinder strength.
Pressure test them grout pump it.
Most definitely could but I take it that he doesn't want to fool with it.
Where are you from. I've inherited a bunch of motors blocks and parts. 350, 400, 454, lq9. Some I would like to keep for a future but that is up in the air at the moment. If your in Texas or Louisiana. If your interested in something let me know.
enjoying this series as a spectator, bad luck for the owner...not much left from the original except rods and some hardware. was the engine run severely overheated? did that cause all the cracks? it looked like some of the water jacket was corroded almost closed
Yea a combination of restricted water passages and over heating but remember this engine is nearly 50 years old so this kind of stuff is not really suprizing
Greetings! Can I ask you a question regarding a 1969 Ford Mustang with a 390 engine? We are repairing such an engine and cannot find the dimensions of the crankshaft and piston liners.
that's a big bummer for him. now he's got to spend more money.
Nice!
i was at pick a part and theres a 66 LTD in there I couldn't find any ID marks on the block and the vin was gone it's a 4v that's about all I could tell about it.
Well then.... The engine that is chugging your way today is just a block. It is very clean and was just bored .30 over. I just posted an update to my saga videos here: ruclips.net/video/5HxSMoNPXWk/видео.html there is not much truck video yet, but I hope to have something useful to upload soon. Thank you vintageiron for being so thorough with my engine and all of the help through this process.
Yeah I guess we should add that bit of info in here I recorded this before we had that conversation, also I have a guy asking to buy your 390 crank and rods this could possable offset some of the cost I will talk to you later offline about that
Sounds good.
Hi would it be possible to contact you in private about the 390 crank and rods i would be interested in them if you would be willing to prep them and ship to northern cal. thanks i really like you channel.
You can Message me on Facebook at myvintageiron7512 just keep in mind the Crank and Rods do not belong to me I understand you are wanting to build a 390 possably out of a 360, they may be available but we will need to get the owner of the engine involved I can ask him if he is interested in selling them shoot me a Facebook Mess and I can out you in touch with him
Sucks that motor was trashed. Did you buy it or was it in your vehicle?
Not much left to work with, maybe another engine might be the go
Yeah sometimes it's best to just start over
I always replace the oil pump shaft on all of my ford engines.
+.030 is alot for an fe bore. Seen em porus at+020.
Block can definitely be reused lol
The summer heat has arrived...
Yea but it's really dry right now so It's not bad
well thats unfortunate
With another block I think is best
Yeah sometimes it's best just to start over I have plenty of heads for this in storage
If you have its awesome
part 2.1?
Another boat anchor! Oh well, at least the price of scrap metal is high!
Where is scrap metal high? last time I took a load in it was 45 cents a hundred, didn't even buy my gas.
390 update from the truck owner
ruclips.net/video/5HxSMoNPXWk/видео.html
That engine was wore slap out as they say.
So you basically have nothing from that entire engine that you can re use other than a few insignificant parts. Your now basically building a crate motor from here on out not rebuilding a 390 FE.
The problem is with building ford engines, they are so much more expensive on parts than building a chevy. I mean you can build a stout 383 stroker for much less than you can do say a 351 with a 400 crank and decent heads a cam etc etc.. I mean if I were going to build a ford engine, I'd get a good 460 block, a set of aluminium cobra jet style heads and a decent intake and a fat roller cam. Basically turn it into a 460 CJ , but a little bit warmer. But I'd be out a lot more than doing something like your 502 build for example. I'd love to see you do a chevy W series 348 or 409 build, or maybe an Oldsmobile 400 / 425 / 455 . I like the look of the rocker covers on the series 1 chevy bigblocks and the twin snout air cleaners on the Oldsmobile engines looked cool also.
I have a 455 Olds video on my channel
shoominati23 do you know if Oldsmobile has a weak shaft for the oil pump drive, should I worry about mine or US that a ford thing?
I have never seen an Olds break one
so basically you reused nothing.
Taylor Jennings hey he re-used the front cover and oil slinger! Lol
Lots of indications early on it would end up here. Terrible looking pistons, oh that's typical, bearings down to copper, oh that's normal, rebuild with an overbore at age 10, signs of overheat.... This engine is a story of some combination of neglect - abuse - bad design. All explained away as normal and typical.
its called a (y) block
Do you know Y they call it a Y block
cause its shaped like a y
your right that is Y it's called a Y block
So. The block is trash, pistons are trash, rockers are trash, heads are trash, what the hell is left worth bothering with??
It's not a matter of bothering with what you have, you need to inspect all your components so you know what you need to repair and replace
ruclips.net/video/HAOGwHD0W9w/видео.html
Fix the crack ........
it looks like the crack was in the water jacket near the bore and welding it probably wouldnt hold. the coolant is under pressure and would seep through into the oil. also, the block is cast iron and a weld is hard steel, two different metals that expand and contract at different rates, the weld will fail.
Lol I fix cracks like that all the time in my shop , use tap plugs to stitch the crack up . I just did a 7 inch crack on a 340 Mopar that ran from the lifter bore clear to the deck .
It may work for you but still a band-aid, temporary solution.
You can stitch repair cracks it's true but it isn't 100% they sometimes leak I prefer to start with another block
Usually cracked blocks only get repaired and saved if there is a need to keep the car numbers matching, or if a usable core engine is extremely rare.
Not much to salvage out of that first engine.
nope
Poor old Ford has been rode hard and put away bused.
ruclips.net/video/K0J2LrGq5Fo/видео.html