Don't Put BackerBoard Inside Shower Pan
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- Опубликовано: 4 апр 2019
- Please don't do this, you're asking for problems. If you see your contractor do this STOP HIM !
Here is how I do the wallboard...
• Proper Way To Set WALL...
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*This is my method... **ruclips.net/video/cNLaNE2h9H8/видео.html*
If this helped you PLEASE donate to my PayPal or become a Patreon member...links on my "about" tab on my channel...I'm not paid by RUclips
Thanks so much brother...I'm about to show my workers this video because we were just going over the best way to do a water tight curb that wouldn't fail. You gave me a BUNCH OF IDEAS on how to do it properly, and buy the way your work looks BEAST!!! I wish you were in the Va Beach area. I'm a Real Estate Investor in desperate need of Knowledgeable tradesmen with even temperaments. It's hard to find good guys. Thanks Again for the video. I subbed and Liked!!!
Please make videos showing your installs step by step. I feel like if you show how they screw up and how you did it correctly it would be more beneficial. Coming from a fan
I agree 100% whenever you're showing how someone screws up you should always show the proper way of doing (fixing) it.
If either you had bothered to look in the description you would have seen the next video link which is the tear out and the final build
@@StarrTile lol
@@StarrTile I’m dying Lolol
I'm a plumber from Melbourne Australia- we don't use those trays anymore. They used to be galvanised sheet iron. For years now, two coats of water proof membrane are applied over the screeded base and drain outlet and also the wall lining (cement sheeting or wet area plaster board) prior to tiling. Water which gets under or behind the tiles via the grout is directed into the shower outlet. There is no way for the water to affect the wall lining. I'm a perfectionist and I have never had a problem with this system when applied correctly.
Thank you for your video, I am a DIY and I’m always very cautious on doing things around the house so I informed myself well. I am not an expert like you but I saw the same wrong installation when they were fixing my moms bathroom. I told the guy it made no sense since it kills the purpose of the liner, the guy looked at me as if I was a ridiculous crazy woman. However I google for him the order of material that the manufacturer gives when installing those types on water protecting membranes and proved my point. I’m sure he did not appreciated my comment but at least moms bathroom got done correctly thanks again for teaching us the correct way
@starrtile I've been doing flooring for 4 years and bathrooms for little over 2 years and the content you've posted have help me in so many ways. I really appreciate the content.
Thank you sir, and I won't even fault you that you're a Jarhead👍
Thank you for your service!
All of this as a DIYer just makes me more glad I have a fiberglass tub-shower surround.
Not that I’m knocking all your excellent work, wonderful explanations, and teaching, but good LAWD there’s a lot that goes into it to think about! I just didn’t face it installing my surround, that’s all.
Excellent points about not allowing the backer board to touch inside the pan! What’s wrong with people??? They never had a piece of cloth or paper accidentally dip into water at the edge and took note of the wicking action???
Great work by the way. I would love to still be able to build custom showers.
My dad was me teacher and I loved it.
That redo final result blew me away! Beautiful job! Getting ready to try and redo my shower so glad I found your channel.
I thought it looked good in the first place but then we he tore into it not so much. I had to stop a guy in mid remodel because some bozos were putting any water proofing. Cost me a lot of money and time. Now I'm probably going to tear it all out
I love seeing construction after a number of years.
Always good to make a notes for improvements.
You have really helped me understand a major tile shower failure in my new home. Of course the Mega-contractor blamed me and are all "lawyered - up". Stay tuned for my forth-coming You-Tube Special.
Howd that go
Cool trick with the handle in the shower pipe-I've been wrapping mine with electrical tape all this time! Nice to get someone who knows what they are doing making videos.
I saw another RUclipsr with a tip for this exact scenario. He cut off two small pieces of clear plastic tubing long enough to cover the teeths on the channel locks and put the pieces of tubing on the channel locks. He was able to use the channel locks the normal way without scratching up the finish on the hardware.
Thank you for the educational video it explains a lot that I have seen over the years. I’ve been a tile installer for over 25-28 years and honestly I’ve never heard about wallboard in the pan liner, not even from training classes so thank you.
The Oatey rubber shower pan liner instructions say to put the board into the pan pre slope exactly the way it was done in this video. I thought there was something fishy about those instructions! I may have some warranty work to do in a couple years, aw crap!
Watching this is a BIG help on my shower pan bathroom remodel and others Ive watched do this... Great video of what not to do with a real life example of a crappy job that looked legit on the outside
This video really helped me for my shower project. Especially the part about where the backer board should go. If you think about it, it really makes sense. Thank you.
I did not see where the backer board should go, anybody knows
I’ve watched tons of shower videos and they all put the backer in the pan! Thank you, thank you for showing WHY this is incorrect! Saved me a repair down the road!
Out of all the tile videos I watch yours are the most informative very well done thank you
Bob - another great video. I have done a few of these, and your tips and knowledge are greatly appreciated.
I agree. .. makes sense.
Only exception I would say would be a paint on waterproofing.
As a renovations contractor I am a firm believer in redguard as an additional insurance barrier. Good info on the video here
Wow, turned out beautiful. Excellent work
Good evidence of backer board whicking!!! Was waiting for this evidence after hearing repeated lectures on not putting backer board into pan mortar. Thank you.
These are the kinds of videos I like to watch. Learning a lot off of your videos.
I have been watching a lot of different videos for my new weekend project, and it is amazing how 5 out of 6 youtubers put the sheetrock all the way down on the flange. I'm going to do it your way.
most all recommend/require a minimum 1/2" gap above all pan/base/tub types. I go with 3/4". I don't do tile, but I'd do more like 2" gap above finished floor tile, assuming larger format tiles that can easily cope with that!, globing tile mortar in the gap would be just as bad and cause wicking also, it likely would if you put any on the tile itself in the gap also.
@@throttlebottle5906 4” gap and mud the.bottom below boards
@@Jack-russell103 what would be the reason for that ? Mud would wick the water just like the board. The idea is to have a barrier for water not to travel up.
Durock (or Hardibacker). Sheetrock is drywall.
I solved the wicking action by simply waterproofing the backer boards before I install them (I always use Durock). I started doing this years ago because I noticed that demos often looked like this job you are showing us here.I have also been reading your blog for years and saw this problem many times on your site. If you waterproof the backer edges and go up the rock 6 to 8 inches it can't wick, Takes 10-15 minutes. Usually I do it twice, I also have some issues with leaving the backer an inch above the pan. This creates a potential area for water to stay and bacteria and mold to grow. By imbedding your backer board into the pan, ( but leaving it about an inch above the liner), pre water proofing the backer edges up several inches (both sides) and then seam taping and waterproofing the wall edge where it meets the mortar bed along with waterproofing the entire mortar bed before you tile, the ability of water to even get to the pan is eliminated. There might be minimal wall/floor movement but the seam tape along with the flexibility of the waterproofing handle the movement. I have since verified this works on a stone pebble floor I installed in a house that was sold and the people that bought it did not like the feel and wanted 2" square flat tiles instead of stone. The previous owner gave them my name and when I took the pebbles outs there was zero leakage into the mortar bed. I repaired the damage done from the pebble removal, waterproofed the the bed thoroughly again (I use Redgard) and reinstalled the new tiles.I don't know if you like this solution but I find it works quite well and allows for a very straight edge to be created in the mortar bed to work with when packing the mortar be and creates a shingle effect so water cannot get to the bed at all.I try to think like water and waterproof, waterproof, waterproof. I install floor tiles first and but a heave bead of clear clear elastomeric caulk where the floor tiles meet the wall and bring it up about 3/4 to inch on the wall. I then set the wall tiles the same way you do. Then when grouting I run another bead of clear caulk under the wall tiles and then force the grout into the space while caulk is still wet. (I did a test on this method and grout and caulk form a good bond if both are still wet and are able to cure together.) Water simply never gets to the bed. I usually set the back wall tiles first and then fill the edge with caulk (again elastomeric, I use Big Stretch) before I install the side wall tiles. This removes an area where water can travel in the event the corner corner caulk cracks and leaks. I also waterproof the entire shower enclosure before I set any tile, paying special attention to corners, which are also seam taped and waterproofed and caulked (elastomeric) before aI seam tape them. The extra caulking and pre water proofing edges might add a couple hours to the job.
Just do it the right way and preslope/mud/set/grout the shower floor first, then walls
bro if the customer pays for your time you do the best job it all translates to time is money most customers want a good job but add 500 to a shower for it to be donre correctly then the customer wands a cheap job which will fail
@@jc3394 what?
Your the first smart tile guy I found so far.nobody else warned us properly.
First time I see Reno video by professional who does not trash and even has nice words for the work done by other professional!
This is not professional
I wish the video showed the shower build... He kind just waved his hand and made it appear with stage magic...
Nah. Then he’d open up his guard for criticism. He’s the only one allowed to criticize. 😂
@Eliano. I have over 500 videos over the course of 11 years, focusing in on this one video is kind of idiotic, anybody is free to critique any of my videos even with work in progress..
But of course at the end of the day I'm beholding to my customer and not some Troll on RUclips
@@StarrTile yikes bro… I just would have enjoyed seeing this particular project and how you did it. You did a great job, just would like to see more of it, but the camera wasn’t rolling.
@@thejpkotor it's a lot of work to set up camera and upload hours of video only to edit them down to something people would want to watch, I do that from time to time just not on this particular one...
Plus I'm not paid by RUclips so the motivation isn't always there
@@thejpkotor here's one..
ruclips.net/video/5Gp-PgGYi64/видео.html
Most of the negative comment are a result of a description error . 'Into the water pan" . Fabricated shower pans frequently have side wall coming up 2-4 ". custom, the same . If wall backer comes into pan , as it must , but not to 'the bottom (leaving a 1" or so gap (1/2" for floor tile plus 1/2") ' not tight to the bottom of the pan , NO wicking will occur . PLUS the floor tile can be put in over entire bottom of pan (as it must) and the wall tile (at least the bottom row) can be installed last , coming down to the flex grout line (over a tiny wall gap) and a perfect and forever lasting install has happened .
The answer to the problem we all needed to hear...
Clearly a fine craftsman here. Framer to tile setter sub has been earned. God bless keep er rolling
Oatey specifically says in the instructions to install the backerboard into the pan liner. Awesome, I knew something wasn't quite right about those instructions. You verified that for me, thanks!
Any waterproofing system is overlapping layers of protection. It's also has mitigation built in for directing the water in case of failure. It seems to me the liner is last. The backerboard goes first, then the rubber. I was only involved once on a shower liner, working with journeyman plumber. The rubber has NO penetrations of ANY KIND and is installed with adhesive.There is a technique for how the liner is inserted INSIDE drain rough in. Then the drain piece you see is inserted, so any water breaking through grout has nowhere to go but into the drain. Any water that penetrates wall grout, has nowhere to go but down and into the drain.
Really good video! So glad I happened onto your channel. I'm one of those jack-of-all-trades with minimal experience and need to see the myths and common mistakes people make. Thank you so much! By the way, after seeing this makes me realize why I like to do everything myself. lol
Great critique. I agree implicitly about making sure the backer doesn't go into the pan. Recipe for disaster.
So you are saying tile code is wrong???
@@johnbeckwith1361 I cannot say for certain. I do not know where you are or what code may be in your region. That said, in my region the pan tiles should be completed first and the walls materials must extend out over the pan tiles to ensure proper drainage. If we cannot agree on that then this conversation for me at least is over.
Thank you for this video. We have had a constant mold problem ,so I investigated as I feared rotten studs. Anyway I found that the tile board which was originally used, was surrounded by concrete and that water has nowhere to go . Same symptoms as on your video! Sorted mu thought process out! 👍
Wow! Fantastic job! Demo on my shower showed the exact issue you’ve described, in my case even concrete backer board had mold and dampness because it was installed first and sat in the pan. Great video.
That shower looks awesome brother! I just started my own tile business a few months ago and I love videos that help me improve my skills. Thanks for the great advice!
I’ve been in it for 21 years, do yourself a favor and never put backer board in a shower. Don’t bother with the brush on stuff either. Schluter and Wedi are the only ways to go, if they fail they failed due to installation.
Proper approved thunders are the key, everyone just grabs good old laticrete 253, don’t do it! I have probably well over 150 showers out there and have never had a failure that I know of.
Good luck in your business.
Outstanding work and really good info !
I can see how things can go wrong when you are not a professional. You just helped me to make a decision that will save me in the future.
Thank you so much! I just found my contractor did the same thing! Perfect time to stop him..
Okay back in the day (more like 60 years ago) showers pans were install last. The wall were floated then tiled down to the pan liner. Then the pan would get dry packed and tiled. Bit most people won't float a shower anymore but they still will dry pack the floor. And in doing so they think they can substitute wall float for durarock, Hardie backer or some other alternative. But alas as you continue to find it is not the case as the moisture will find it's way up an rust out the fasteners i.e nails, screws or whatever. So you can now consider it explained.
That shower looked gorgeous
Ik
Its easy to criticize someone else's work...to do a video of the correction as well as the proper steps would be ideal...if he does it
Great job, our greatest tool in learning is constructive criticism. But a lot of people cannot take it in a positive way to learn. This has been my key to success. So, keep it up.
Not a dyi, I am a 32 yr old w 15 years on n off experience in residential construction, now running my own operation, tile anything feasible, bathrooms, basements, kitchens, decks door siding windows you name it, I can do it and not in a jack of all trades kind of way. My father and I were working together and were the most requested in 3 cities surrounding us through Lowe’s which ain’t saying a lot but it is at the same time lol, if you know you know. Despite all the experience and knowledge I gained from my father and others over the years, I still learn things from you and I’m so glad I found your channel, you are a tile guru in my mind. This shower turned out amazing dude. Keep the videos coming man.
That is another beautiful job. Wish you were in Texas.
A piece of 1/2" copper stuck in the end of a shower neck is perfect for removing them.
Great video!! Thank you for the tip.
I'm actually doing a tear out and re tile this morning and I'm sitting here having my coffee and happened to see this. I have done this in the past regrettably. Never thought about it! But your exactly right. This morning I will install mud pack first and hold all my durock up off of mad pack when installing wall boards and cutb .
Thanks again!👍👍👍👏👏✌😎🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Tom Stclair what is mud pack ?
Never heard that term before mind you I live in England and you guys certainly call and do things differently.
@@grantcook5376
Lol lol lol. Yes we do!!
We call it dry mudd pack Grant because some of us use that short cut terminology for concrete . Some guys call concrete, mudd here because when its poured out into a form it looks like mudd doesn't it?? Lol.
So your basically using a sanded down concrete mix with little bits of water mixed in to create this perfect mudd base to set tiles onto. I call it mudd pack, but they actually make a product over here thats called dry pak. It comes already mixed proper proportions so u just add your water and mix to the right consistancy so you can quickly pak it it there and start forming the pitch you need to drain properly. What this procedure and materials hes showing how to mix will do is. It will become your best friend when you have to tear the shower pan out down the road when it needs replacement. It will break up nicely with a hammer in big chunks and come right out . The first one I ever did myself !! Not knowing anything . I poured in solid concrete.. lol lol lol lol I felt really bad after I learned the correct way. Because who ever has to tear that crap out is gonna be cussing my ass out like no tomorrow..lol lol loln. Which he rightly should be. So that's that story . I should of just said dry pak instead of Mudd. Lol.
Is this the way you all across the pond form up your base to set tiles on after you get the rubber shower pan liner installed?????
You are 100% correct. At the 8:30 mark that's exactly what my shower looked like when I took it down. Water just pooling like that and under the pan liner it was soaked and milkly like yours. They had the backer board first then they built the pan around it.
Would love to see an “in progress” pic/explanation.👍
I am not a gray person but that is a fly ass shower !
Great job !
I've been tile on east coast over 25 years great video . I feel the space between mud bed and cement board with ultra flex 2 modified thinset
Redid my entire bathroom 4-5 yrs ago and used your methods I watched on your videos to build my custom sized 60”x40” walk in shower I even spoke with u on the phone at one time I used red guard and I have zero leaks only thing I’ve done is replaced the caulking were the floor pan meets the walls but I’d say that’s just normal up keep ty again love the videos
Pre Slope prior to installing the liner and RedGuard edges of the board that will be embedded in the perimeter of mortar bed and it'll be fine and installed as it should be .The mortar bed is what holds the bottom perimeter of the board in place and minimizes movement that causes the grout too crack where the wall tile and shower floor tile meet
Now I am totally confused which way to go..backer board all the way down to the membrane then mud or the spacing above the mortar bed after mudding and prior to tiling?
@@abyssalsoul6216 Old School vs. New School.
When I built my house 21 years ago it had 3 out of 4 bathrooms with custom shower pans that I did all of the work on.. I sold it 11 years ago but I know both of the subsequent homeowners. No leaks so far. I am much indebted to Michael Byrne's book Setting Tile which I paid full price for but now you can get for a couple bucks unless you want the revised and updated version. As a brick mason (not by trade but tore down and built a lot of 100 year old chimneys, fireboxes etc. and did other types of masonry work at my own property) I was thrilled to be introduced to the mud bed (and mud wall). For the master bath at the house I built I ordered some slate I saw in Architectural Digest for floor, shower and 36" up the walls, that was called Desert Beige but was every color but beige (mostly green and gold with some blue hues)..... To my surprise it came with gorgeous fossil imprints of small plants and plant leaves on 15 or so of the 12x12's so I accented with those in the shower and on the wainscoting behind the toilet. The tile was ungauged so I had to separate all 250 of them into piles for thickness color and location (including the slanted ceiling of the shower) before starting. I also separated the six foot jetted tub ( you're right I didn't use it much but the wives that came later thanked me) and the shower with a 2 sided wall of the slate that went about 6 feet to the ceiling from tub height and to get some light in the small shower I ran 2 separate vertical rows of 8" glass block. I designed it such that each 12x12 piece of slate (I saved the prettiest ones for this) got cut exactly in half and so the wall was exactly 2 tiles and 2 glass blocks wide, comprised of 1/2 of a tile, one glass block, the other half of the same tile, the first half of the next tile another glass block and then the second half of the second tile. All exposed edges were sanded, buffed and polished at corners. I used clear silicone between the block with spacers to preserve the look of 2 vertical glass strips with no mud.This is the first thing that is seen as you walk in the bathroom. The tile was not flat but glass block is, so there was no room for error, and silicone is not water soluble so no wet sponging and only get one chance to get it right . The slate came on a truck from out west (I'm in Atlanta) since it wasn't sold east of the Mississippi. I ordered 250 and finished the whole job with 3 tiles left over by not using it except on the rim of the shower floor. Yes I know slate on a shower floor is not a good idea but I used a top notch gloss sealer on everything and cut a different smooth charcoal slate tile into 4x4's for most of the floor. I love the way that linear drain looks on your job.
Can you sum it up in 3 sentences, this is text pollution !
I've watched nearly 8 of your videos so far....Great job explaining your work man ! If you were in CA., I would hire you on the spot. Wish me luck with my DIY.
First video I've seen. Nice job! Would love to see your attention to detail and thoroughness do the build. Please consider doing that sometime. But the video covered exactly what it said it would from the title, no click bait. Thanks.
you didnt show what to do instead of putting the backer in the shower pan
@Mozinwrath thats exactly what your supposed to do.
@Mozinwrath i still dont understand, if you are not suppose to put backerboard in the shower pan, what do you put in it for the tile to stick to?
feralbigdog you do the pre slope rubber then next slope then lay backer board 1/8 to 1/4 short of pan to prevent wicking up
@@Greg-kc1dw got a link to where i can see this done?
@@Greg-kc1dw There's a gap between the pan and the backer board?
What a mess. I have seen so many of these and still they keep happening. U.K and America. It isn't really any harder to do the job properly
Good afternoon. You, Sir, have the skills to do the job properly. I find it very difficult to find "qualified " installers. I don't mind paying the fair going rate. They do crap work and charge top dollar. Then they defend their work.
So glad you are pointing out the common mistake regarding wall board being down in the floor and pan area and wicking the water up into it.
As a bathroom remodeler Who has done countless shower pans, let me tell you of my process. I use hardiebacker and i coat the front side with redguard. I also put redguard on all edges and sides that will sit in the shower pan. I do a proper pre-pitch, liner and then more deck mud. I have NEVER had an wicking using this method. If you do not do blocking between the studs and just attach the liner onto the studs, without the cement board, the mud will move and shift. The cement board being in the pan will make sure the mud doesn’t move too much. If you’re going to let the cement board sit a little high, you better make sure you do the blocking. The only time I see wicking is when the shower pan was improperly built (every single one I’ve ever seen) and had no prepitch. Then its just a pool of water in the perimeter which is what causes the wicking and continual mold. With a proper prepitch and pitch, there really shouldn’t be any water hanging around to wick up.
Leslie Ann..What do you mean by this " if you do not do blocking between the studs..." How do you do blocking between the studs? I am learning here...thanks! I see your point where the mud could shift if the cement board is is not in the pan and I suppose you mean all the way to the membrane? Correct? So then the mud should be placed in the pan after the cement board is all attached to the walls?
I think I get it but confirm please. The edges of the mud must be up a against a wall of sorts so its movement is restricted? Like encasing it?
Wood curb ? I always do a concrete cast in place curb with the liner embedded inside the curb
Since you cannot nail through the pan liner at the bottom of the cement board on the walls, the mud actually locks it into place against the wall. All you need to do is use durock alkaline resistant mesh in the corners on top of the mud job and against the cement board....then three coats of red guard or equal.
If you cement board the walls on top of the mud job, you have no way to properly fasten the bottom 6 inches of cement board to the wall. Now its floating and will cause a leak. Strength is step 1 in a shower pan
you make a good point, however that has me thinking if you redgard everything why would it even motter if you screw the cement board through the liner? I mean if you have 3 or more coats pf redgard it waterproof!! Right??
Further more if Redgarded properly........... The liner becomes a moot point
Common sense is lacking in many of construction, great you point it out!
"yeah it's a lot of work"...sure is! but satisfying when you've done it right!
Love watching your videos. Always love to gain more insight into how I can improve the showers I build. But do we really have to spend half of the video, repeating "don't put backer board into your pan"?? Like I said though, I love your content and I love the quality of work that you're putting out.
Lol that was the point of this video so can’t be too surprised
your weep holes on your drain flange are plugged , there are two drains in a mud pan shower , the one you see the water go down and "weep holes " in the flange that clamps the pan liner , place string in the weep hole drain then pull out when drain is clamped then place pea gravel around flange before dry pack.
And I believe the standing water is cause of no preslope before pan and also agree with Dave tile guy plus the curd should be pour 100 percent not pan should wrap around should come up between the framing of curb
Loved the " STOP IT" Interlude!
Awesome job as always Bob
I thought the first job was nice before tear out butt mannn the new project was 🔥🔥🔥👍👍👍👍💯💲💲 slick, great job
Thanks Man! That was GREAT information!
Great video and awesome job on that shower man! I have no experience and even I would know better than to do that; it just makes complete sense.
From one fellow tile guy to another,great video 👍🏻
I have a question: I myself have been doing tile amongst other things for many years for clients. The new build that I am on I have benefited greatly from the mistakes that you have shown during your tear outs. My question is, is there any advantage or disadvantage to tiling the shower floor and then installing the backer board down onto the tile before installing wall tile? Or, is it best to install the backer board down onto the pan that has already been floated and then install the floor up to and against the new vertical backer board?
Did you ever find out which method is better? Just curious. Thanks.
What was the point in doing the membrane if you’re going to drive nails through in the curb but run the walls up 12” on the other walls....???
You do awesome work. Truly a tile pro!
Looks good man my brother and I started our own bath and kitchen remodeling business. Little slow starting but we are getting few jobs hoping to get it going so I can do it full time.
That looks sharp Bob, good work.
20 yr was tilesetter in az never once have I used this method of work we did everything chicken wire and mud no leakes my old boss would be rolling in his grave😭
@@nunyabizniz7619 What?
I can hear it now "um, mr. contractor, don't do the underlayment like that! A guy I saw on youtube said you shouldn't do that!" haha
exactly what I was thinking
Wow that end product was amazing!!!
This sliver cuts alongside the niche edge trim were prolly pain in the but a little... I try me best in my framing stage to account for that issue... and I usually can't get full cuts around the box. Superb job truly amazing
can be a little of a pain but sometimes its easy
When your good, you have the right to rip other contractors work apart and point out their mistakes. Nice job illustrating how not to do it.
What if you where to say... red guard the entire sheet PRIOR to putting it into the bed? That would eliminate any potential for water to wick up the sides.
Mike any answer to this? This was my thinking as well, granted if installing all new one could leave an 1/2” to inch between pan and backer board.
@@sgf312 This what I plan on doing , red guard on the lower parts of the cement board and leaving a space between it and the pan
What a huge difference! Great work
Whatever you said, I am here just for the end product..ooooh so shiny. I loved it, I was wondering how can it become any better lol
I can't fault the reasoning I think most everyone is guilty of this until they are taught better. This is part of the problem No one Trains anyone anymore
I agree. As a semi-handy individual, there's so much I don't know about shower pans and have to resort to technology to "figure it out", I wish I could pay someone but it's either too expensive, or the guys aren't trustworthy. I'd rather fail at it myself. But I like your comment because you are so right, no one trains anymore.
Some ask: "What if they train the people and they leave?"
I respond with: "What if you don't train them and they stay?" !!!
What about the ones who come to youtube, watch a couple videos, and think they are a professional and start taking jobs that they definitely don't need to be on
@@H.h.farms5089 thats how i started my plastic surgery clinic with nothin more than a 7th grade education
@@H.h.farms5089 this is exactly how people get screwed over. No one should be allowed to install tile unless they pass CTI, registered with NCTA, and are educated correctly. I swear 90% of "tile installers" are hacks or brainwashed by another hack on a video sharing platform
You went the whole video saying not to do this I would like to see how you did it and how you tied the drain in!
Look in the description , there is a link to how I do it, also look at the very top comment there's a link there too, a little searching goes a long way
*You don't know "work" until you see my shower!* Lol Great video ! Much appreciated.
29 years doing this, brother u are the best. Great job .
Hot damn my man.... this shower turn out sllliiicccckkkk
Wish you would of shown how to properly put backer/schuller board on a pan,
That title was super sick looking, I enjoy masters of the craftsmanship that gives 100% warranty, but I didn't see the right way, just the awesome finished product.
ruclips.net/video/cNLaNE2h9H8/видео.html
Word...
Thanks for the information,
Makes sense...
you leave an inch to 2 inches between the pan and cement board
You doing very good with your videos I think they very instructive thank you for doing them I had learn a lot.
Had a contractor tell me the backer belongs in the pan, even though my shower failed as a result of it(from the original build). Needless to say, i rebuilt the zhower myself leaving a gap between the pan and the backer, and itll last until the next owner wants to change it. Sometimes, common sense isnt ao common.....and this video shows why. Thanks!
Lots of contractors are drones and do not use common sense. They just do what they are told to do and the industry still says to put the board into the pan mud. That is like creating trench around the perimeter of the pan and dipping the board into that trench where water will get in and marinate.
Nice trick on the shower head
17:30 Holy chit. Should have looked like that when new.
I think I've been watching the guy your talking about and am about to do exactly what your talking about! Thank you for helping me avoid that mistake! Im about to start this next week and would have been too far down the path to turn around. I suppose I could have cut the backboard an inch up to allow for separation but that would have been a huge PITA.
Definitely earned a subscriber today !! My boss has been doing it wrong the whole time!
lol except when they call the plumber because they think the drain is leaking the plumber will say yea and charge them to replace the drain. and months later they will find that the problem is back and have to pay someone to fix it still...
Sorry for skipping over but yea that is a smashing ass job! looks really nice! It's so hard to find honest contractors man. Just had one quote me $1700 just to frame a 9ft long wall. no drywall no demolition or anything. just frame. He wants me to pay like 2 months of his rent for 1hr of work lol. I priced the lumber for it at only 60 dollars. btw his quote doesn't even include materials!
I always put my board on first then float my pan ,then aqua defence my pan and walls along with Keri band all the way around the perimeter and Kerdi my pan and another two coats of aqua defence around the perimeter!! Now you tell me how water is going to wick up the walls. Not happening!!!!!
Agreed
Then that's on the home owner for not maintaining his drain !!!
I agree. Also, how can you ensure that you redgard the gap between bottom of backer board and top of bed completely? There’s no way. There will be open cracks that are not possible to see down there. You might be able to redgard most of it but not completely. I agree with you. Backer board in, nice mortar all the way to side of backer board and then redgard the shit out of it.
Thank you for the pointers.
It's perfectly fine putting cement board into the pan. I wouldn't put it more than 1/2" below the top of the pan - agree with that.
Good install, hideous tile... That floor is gonna be a nightmare to stand on when wet!
Agreed ! Very much a slip hazard
Rocky Constable that’s how you know a male selected it. He’s going to bust his butt no grip
I had a pan repair where some dumdum cut the pan liner around the outside of the drain flange leaving a 1/4 inch gap with exposed plywood.
When I did the shower in my son's NYC apartment I followed the direction given here - I didn't use Hardi backer board I used durrock but I kept the backer I used about an inch above the floor tile surface. I also used the red waterproofing solution (3 coats).
I love seeing negative comments from contractors that try to refute an alternative way to do a job. Especially when you show visual evidence of what could go wrong.
Right ???? The proof right there & they *still* dispute it ;-)
Still using Dens Shield for a custom pan is never recommended for a long lasting system, Do a video where Hardibacker has been installed into the pan and show the same results, I bet you cannot
@@bouldervon7487 yes...as stated in this video I've taken out *every* backer out there stuck in a pan, same result...I have video evidence too, you can go through all 370 of my videos if you like, not going to make it easy for you 😂
And BTW, hardi is 90% Portland cement...if you're in the south go look at your sidewalk, driveway or better yet the hardi board that's your siding.
Kinda like Mr star with pre slopes.🤣🤣🤣😋
How about I show you Tile showers (including my own 2) with wonderboard imbedded in the drypack that have never failed. 25 years I have never replaced a shower pan.