Not to cover the walls with RedGard (or equivalent) before tiling does a disservice to those seeking correct HowTo information. While it is not cheap, it is easy to apply and insures a water/moisture barrier between the tile and Hardieboard or any other inert wall board.
Hardieboard is a good strong product but is is not water proof or water resistant. If it is continually wet it will dissolve and rot away. This happened to me where tiles started falling off and had hole develop. Be sure to water proof the backer with RedGuard or similar before applying tile.
@@KentDiego this happened to a home I just purchase, during a remodel we found two of the boards basically turned into mash because water had seeped in. We also found out the previous owner had not primed the surfaces so a lot of the boards and drywall was damaged. Always prep surfaces with a sealer, get a good moisture barrier before any painting. It doesnt cost that much, just adds labor and time and grants peace of mind.
I did my shower 10 years ago. Im no tile guy. However, i just did cement board, pre mixed thinset the seems, waited 24 hours and then started tiling using that same pre mixed thinset. I then mixed the grout and was done. I haven’t had any issue with flaking of the grout and no tiles have popped off. Years ago they used just green board for showers. I would think a membrane could peel off and the tile doesnt adhere as well to the cement board. Between the tile, a good grout job, thorough thinset, and cement board that would make it water tight or moisture proof. …….. im not here to prove my point. Please educate me, thanks
Waterproofing with Redguard or equivalent is a must! Tile thinset sticks perfectly well to waterproofing compound. In the event grout cracks (which it does, and will), or caulk weakens and separates (which it does, and will), water will penetrate behind it. This will in turn eventually rot and mold the backerboard behind the tiles. Worse, water can seep down past the tub and affect anything down below it. Water is almost akin to air - - if there's a chance to squeeze into a space, no matter how small, it will. Always assume water will penetrate, therefore go with 100% waterproofing everything. I'm not saying anything about your work. It's great that you haven't had any problems after 10 years. But that's the exception. I wouldn't be surprised though that if you remodeled and took out the tiles, there wouldn't be some areas you see wet boards and mold. Water is simply a PEST!
I did my shower 10 years ago. Im no tile guy. However, i just did cement board, pre mixed thinset the seems, waited 24 hours and then started tiling using that same pre mixed thinset. I then mixed the grout and was done. I haven’t had any issue with flaking of the grout and no tiles have popped off. Years ago they used just green board for showers. I would think a membrane could peel off and the tile doesnt adhere as well to the cement board. Between the tile, a good grout job, thorough thinset, and cement board that would make it water tight or moisture proof. …….. im not here to prove my point. Please educate me, thanks
@@fringestream990that’s a fair point. But since tile is used almost exclusively in very wet areas it is a very poor instruction that doesn’t bring it up.
the only difference I could visibly tell is that this backerboard has small grid lines to help with scoring straight lines, Durock does not have these lines at all so you have to chalk a line to get straight cuts
1yr late but,,hardie is lighter , easier to cut , cleaner to work with! I still use cement backers. Just because I'm stubborn. I believe cement is stronger. But this video doesn't show slopping for the pan for a drain. Nor using a waterproof membrane. Good day.
For anyone curious, the bathroom came out professional looking. As amateur flippers, we really hit it outside of the park. Boxing outside our weight class, but you'd never know it. 4 years later and still no issues, and that's the true test.
When taping joints on you walls, either non-modified or modified thinset may be used. When it come to the floors, use modified thinset as a polymer is added for better adhesion, especially when attatching it to a wooden subfloor. In this video, even tho they removed the brand they used CUSTOMS VersaBond Thinset available at your local HD.
Don't lean building materials against your body and proceed to hammer away, with your body immediately behind the material to be removed. Would swear this guy was about to wack himself in his nuts.
@@luv14lyf I believe it depends on the type of tile you will be using, most of the time it recommends it to you on the box itself, or points you to the manufacturer's website for installation instructions.
Hardie backer suggests you mesh tape all joints. Im going to start a shower wet area soon and also intend on waterproofing the wall and floor boards with two coats of ARDEX WPC Flexible Rapid Drying Waterproof Protection Coating after meshing all joints and prior to tiling
Or why the gap , I never did it that way , the screws are inch away from the ends how much movement will there be , there way is an over kill , and I never put on waterproof either
@@stocharron2753 I've seen many types, thinset for glass and mosaic, small tile, large/ oversize tile, modified thinset, dry set mortar. Thought they each had a required use.
This is a terrible video. How can you show a “shower floor” installation on a completely “flat” surface. No drainage? All this info was inaccurate and will definitely lead someone to installing a failed shower system. Saddening
I'm doing a shower and I'm going to waterproof it with Mapei (just a different brand). Hardieboards are not water proof and will absorb water, but will not retain the water, so a shower that gets used multiple times a day, everyday, will never dry out if water gets behind the tile grout. If that happens water will get pulled into any surrounding wood and cause problems. Add the redguard because it's cheap peace of mind!
Not to cover the walls with RedGard (or equivalent) before tiling does a disservice to those seeking correct HowTo information. While it is not cheap, it is easy to apply and insures a water/moisture barrier between the tile and Hardieboard or any other inert wall board.
Hardieboard is a good strong product but is is not water proof or water resistant. If it is continually wet it will dissolve and rot away. This happened to me where tiles started falling off and had hole develop. Be sure to water proof the backer with RedGuard or similar before applying tile.
@@KentDiego this happened to a home I just purchase, during a remodel we found two of the boards basically turned into mash because water had seeped in. We also found out the previous owner had not primed the surfaces so a lot of the boards and drywall was damaged. Always prep surfaces with a sealer, get a good moisture barrier before any painting. It doesnt cost that much, just adds labor and time and grants peace of mind.
That’s my favorite part
Came here to comment the same thing
Why is this video still here !
How come no waterproofing was done prior to installing the tile??
It wasnt a bathroom. It was a corner of the dudes bedroom
Hahahhaha
I did my shower 10 years ago. Im no tile guy. However, i just did cement board, pre mixed thinset the seems, waited 24 hours and then started tiling using that same pre mixed thinset. I then mixed the grout and was done. I haven’t had any issue with flaking of the grout and no tiles have popped off. Years ago they used just green board for showers. I would think a membrane could peel off and the tile doesnt adhere as well to the cement board. Between the tile, a good grout job, thorough thinset, and cement board that would make it water tight or moisture proof. …….. im not here to prove my point. Please educate me, thanks
Waterproofing with Redguard or equivalent is a must! Tile thinset sticks perfectly well to waterproofing compound.
In the event grout cracks (which it does, and will), or caulk weakens and separates (which it does, and will), water will penetrate behind it. This will in turn eventually rot and mold the backerboard behind the tiles. Worse, water can seep down past the tub and affect anything down below it.
Water is almost akin to air - - if there's a chance to squeeze into a space, no matter how small, it will. Always assume water will penetrate, therefore go with 100% waterproofing everything.
I'm not saying anything about your work. It's great that you haven't had any problems after 10 years. But that's the exception. I wouldn't be surprised though that if you remodeled and took out the tiles, there wouldn't be some areas you see wet boards and mold. Water is simply a PEST!
no waterproofing paint before tiling?
Absolutely use RedGard or equivalent on shower walls and floors.
@PaniK It sure is necessary!!
Glad you mentioned rock on Fireplace...
Does it matter what side of hardy backer goes up or down?
Rough for tile. Smooth for paint.
I did my shower 10 years ago. Im no tile guy. However, i just did cement board, pre mixed thinset the seems, waited 24 hours and then started tiling using that same pre mixed thinset. I then mixed the grout and was done. I haven’t had any issue with flaking of the grout and no tiles have popped off. Years ago they used just green board for showers. I would think a membrane could peel off and the tile doesnt adhere as well to the cement board. Between the tile, a good grout job, thorough thinset, and cement board that would make it water tight or moisture proof. …….. im not here to prove my point. Please educate me, thanks
Why the hell isn’t he using a moisture barrier on the bloody walls?!?
Why? Did they say it's a shower stall?
@@fringestream990that’s a fair point. But since tile is used almost exclusively in very wet areas it is a very poor instruction that doesn’t bring it up.
what is the difference between hardiebacker and other brands cement backer boards?
From what I’ve seen is weight and material. It’s easier to use I think. Sorry you never got an answer but it’s the best I could do.
the only difference I could visibly tell is that this backerboard has small grid lines to help with scoring straight lines, Durock does not have these lines at all so you have to chalk a line to get straight cuts
1yr late but,,hardie is lighter , easier to cut , cleaner to work with! I still use cement backers. Just because I'm stubborn. I believe cement is stronger. But this video doesn't show slopping for the pan for a drain. Nor using a waterproof membrane. Good day.
How do you keep it from absorbing water from the edges?
redgard the edges & 4 inches along the back of the inside corners & where it meets the tub or shower pan
Can you put over drywall
Video is very informative, will definitely continue to use this as a reference as we finish our god forsaken bathroom. Thank you.
Right there with you Rico - I am going thru the same thing with our bathroom remodel! Good Luck :)
Sooo how'd it turn out?
Me too! Doing my master bathroom now…how did yours turn out????
I've been thinking about your post for these past four years and have come to the conclusion it is funny. Have a good day.
For anyone curious, the bathroom came out professional looking. As amateur flippers, we really hit it outside of the park. Boxing outside our weight class, but you'd never know it. 4 years later and still no issues, and that's the true test.
FYI a phalange is a finger. I will need to cut for flanges though.
FYI and also the toes !
How come people just done do a cement shower curb instead of the 2x4??
Moisture resistant = NOT WATERPROOF
What type of thinset for taping joints?
It would be nice to have this finally answered
When taping joints on you walls, either non-modified or modified thinset may be used. When it come to the floors, use modified thinset as a polymer is added for better adhesion, especially when attatching it to a wooden subfloor.
In this video, even tho they removed the brand they used CUSTOMS VersaBond Thinset available at your local HD.
@@luv14lyf Yeah, a whole year later & finally a reply!!!! I done finished the job a year ago!!! Thanks a lot!!!! Lol
This is completed wrong. The hardi backers is not water proof. If the water get to the hardi, it will be gone.
Excellent vlog
Don't lean building materials against your body and proceed to hammer away, with your body immediately behind the material to be removed. Would swear this guy was about to wack himself in his nuts.
Okay Karen
@3:10, Phalange? are you serious? its FLANGE, no wonder you guys didn't show any waterproofing before tiling SHEESH!
Do you know what hat thinset is supposed to be used? Is nice to see what to do but it helps to know what exactly to use
@@luv14lyf I believe it depends on the type of tile you will be using, most of the time it recommends it to you on the box itself, or points you to the manufacturer's website for installation instructions.
@@hardkore360 even for what goes down on the subfloor, before the hardibacker?
Thin set and mesh tape is not recommended where the wall boards meet the floor boards? If it’s recommended elsewhere why not there?
Hardie backer suggests you mesh tape all joints. Im going to start a shower wet area soon and also intend on waterproofing the wall and floor boards with two coats of ARDEX WPC Flexible Rapid Drying Waterproof Protection Coating after meshing all joints and prior to tiling
@@Elfin4 don't matter it's only temporary any way.
Quick question, if you fill the gap where the boards meet with thin-set then why the tape?
Stops cracking
Or why the gap , I never did it that way , the screws are inch away from the ends how much movement will there be , there way is an over kill , and I never put on waterproof either
I hope someone answers this especially since there's tons of thinset and they didn't specify what type should be used
@@luv14lyf thin set is all the same buy it the same time you buy the grout , same manufacturer
@@stocharron2753 I've seen many types, thinset for glass and mosaic, small tile, large/ oversize tile, modified thinset, dry set mortar. Thought they each had a required use.
Forgot the vapor barrier before any backer was installed
Did they say it's a shower?
This is a terrible video. How can you show a “shower floor” installation on a completely “flat” surface. No drainage?
All this info was inaccurate and will definitely lead someone to installing a failed shower system. Saddening
Goofy Garage : Damn it!!! I’m looking for the next video “ How to install a drain through Hardie Backer Board after tile is complete “.
They showed you how to make a hole in the hardiebacker. Idk what else you need
@@Alex-343 the way in which the are using products. Ill advised
.why
for tiling inside the shower, is it optional or necessary to paint the hardy backer with Redgard before tiling?
I'm doing a shower and I'm going to waterproof it with Mapei (just a different brand). Hardieboards are not water proof and will absorb water, but will not retain the water, so a shower that gets used multiple times a day, everyday, will never dry out if water gets behind the tile grout. If that happens water will get pulled into any surrounding wood and cause problems. Add the redguard because it's cheap peace of mind!
@@americanindeon Thank you.
@@americanindeon I concur, RedGard the walls and floor. It not only provided a waterproof barrier but acts as a decoupler for subfloor movement.
It's also a good practice to staple 4 mill plastic on wall studs prior to installing the hardie backer or dura rock
Hardiboard is the worst material to work with
Absolutely!!!
don't you need a shower pan?
I m not sure, but I wouldn't risk it.😬
Scoring and snapping does not result in a clean edge 4:55
Yeah, make sure all 4 corners don't meet up. 7:10 - What a crappy install video
The 4-corners meeting up pics were to show what not to do. It even says so in the video. Sounds like you have a comprehension problem.
S
Junk
on the floor it seems is going to be flat so how does it work to get it to the drain?