Thank you for an excellent tutorial. I'm glad I watched this video before applying RedGard. I was going to go straight to the one-coat method. I think some people might call priming overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Currently, I have a contractor working on my master bathroom. He is installing the cement boards on the walls, piping, and shower floor. I will handle the tiling and other finishing tasks. He recommended avoiding the use of a liquid membrane and suggested installing the tile directly on top of the cement board. He mentioned that he has worked on recently remodeled bathrooms where the membrane had peeled off. After watching this video, I realize there is a high chance that people skipped the priming step on their cement boards. Thanks for your explanation. I will proceed with waterproofing before installing the tiles.
Best of luck with your project! I highly recommend using a waterproofing method of some sort. The tiles will deflect 99% of the water, but anything that gets behind the tiles can rot out all of the framing.
Little tip, way easier to prime boards before installing...you can lay the boards down and just pour the mixture over and spread with a roller or brush. Also, using a trowel has given me more consistent application of the product. Trowel out with the notch side and then collapse the ridges with the flat side...applies and dries very consistently.
On all your joints On Hardiboard or Durarock you should be using the grey (alkaloid resistant) fiber tape you said not to use and fortified (polymer added for flexibility) thin-set to feather them closed before you even touch the wall with Redguard. Never ever use Redguard as part of your support structure for your joints.
Hi there. I use the thinset for all structural elements of the shower build. I consider the gaps and corners to be part of the waterproofing system, and Redgard explicitly says to use the fabric mesh instead of the metal mesh. Redgard can soak into the fabric and maintain flexbility for better waterproofing rather than being painted over thinset. Enjoy!
@@practicalhomeprojects I never said metal mesh. I said all joints to have alkaloid resistant mesh tape with a modified thinset before applying redguard. It is just the way you do it.
great video! You will gain subscribers in no time. Does Red guard work with plaster and lath wall or is it best to replace that with cement board or other? Thanks.
Hi there. Thanks for the comment. I believe that RedGard will adhere to plaster just as it does to gypsum board. If you are installing in a wet area, check with your code agency to see if there are requirements for certain substrates. Best of luck!
great video, I was trying to peep out your mini step, the perimeter portion when entering the shower. What material did you use for the structure and end result, I am doing a shower right now and am looking for dimension (heigh, width, etc) ......? Thank you for your time and help, definitely keep up with the good DIY videos. Also, my shower pan area is plywood.
The instructions say "Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer-modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards based on application requirements."
Hey there, We used a dry pack for the shower pan. The layers from bottom to top are: plywood subfloor, plastic sheet to slow drying time, wire mesh for shear resistance, dry pack mix which is sand and concrete, then the RedGard waterproofing layer on top.
Excellent video! So glad to see him wearing the air mask that's recommended in the directions. They clearly state there are SERIOUS haszords to your lungs if not wearing protection. Thanks again!
I wouldn't use Redgard on any showers. It's known to re emulsify and bleed pink through you grout joints. If you use Aquabar first you won't need to waterproof your shower other then the pan but get that hotmopped, that's the best way to go. If you really want to get down, float your shower with concrete. I floated all my showers until I got too old but then I started using Denshield. Score and snap, way less labor intensive.
Thanks for the input; hopefully we don't have that issue. I've seen hot mopped showers, it looks reliable but not DIY friendly. RedGard has been used in hundreds of thousands of showers for decades, so I would expect that if instructions are followed then there won't be any issues. We'll keep an eye out though.
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Never seen such a complete, detailed, and useful video about using RedGard. This is exactly what I was looking for for weeks. Thank you very much!
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. I'm glad I watched this video before applying RedGard. I was going to go straight to the one-coat method. I think some people might call priming overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Currently, I have a contractor working on my master bathroom. He is installing the cement boards on the walls, piping, and shower floor. I will handle the tiling and other finishing tasks. He recommended avoiding the use of a liquid membrane and suggested installing the tile directly on top of the cement board. He mentioned that he has worked on recently remodeled bathrooms where the membrane had peeled off.
After watching this video, I realize there is a high chance that people skipped the priming step on their cement boards.
Thanks for your explanation. I will proceed with waterproofing before installing the tiles.
Best of luck with your project! I highly recommend using a waterproofing method of some sort. The tiles will deflect 99% of the water, but anything that gets behind the tiles can rot out all of the framing.
Do I need to stir the red guard before I start applying it like I would paint?
Yes I would recommend stirring it well and keeping the lid on when not in use.
Well you can't stir it after it's up on the wall.
Little tip, way easier to prime boards before installing...you can lay the boards down and just pour the mixture over and spread with a roller or brush. Also, using a trowel has given me more consistent application of the product. Trowel out with the notch side and then collapse the ridges with the flat side...applies and dries very consistently.
Thanks for the tip.
I am using this in a few days and this video is tremendously helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
How’d it go?
On all your joints On Hardiboard or Durarock you should be using the grey (alkaloid resistant) fiber tape you said not to use and fortified (polymer added for flexibility) thin-set to feather them closed before you even touch the wall with Redguard. Never ever use Redguard as part of your support structure for your joints.
Hi there. I use the thinset for all structural elements of the shower build. I consider the gaps and corners to be part of the waterproofing system, and Redgard explicitly says to use the fabric mesh instead of the metal mesh. Redgard can soak into the fabric and maintain flexbility for better waterproofing rather than being painted over thinset. Enjoy!
@@practicalhomeprojects I never said metal mesh. I said all joints to have alkaloid resistant mesh tape with a modified thinset before applying redguard. It is just the way you do it.
great video! You will gain subscribers in no time. Does Red guard work with plaster and lath wall or is it best to replace that with cement board or other? Thanks.
Hi there. Thanks for the comment. I believe that RedGard will adhere to plaster just as it does to gypsum board. If you are installing in a wet area, check with your code agency to see if there are requirements for certain substrates. Best of luck!
great video, I was trying to peep out your mini step, the perimeter portion when entering the shower. What material did you use for the structure and end result, I am doing a shower right now and am looking for dimension (heigh, width, etc) ......? Thank you for your time and help, definitely keep up with the good DIY videos. Also, my shower pan area is plywood.
Hello, Here is the full video of the shower curb. ruclips.net/video/MeMTk8wdL1k/видео.html
Do you use a normal mortar for tile on top of the red gard? Or a special one
The instructions say "Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer-modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards based on application requirements."
Are you putting the redgard on the shower floor over a cement board?
Hey there, We used a dry pack for the shower pan. The layers from bottom to top are: plywood subfloor, plastic sheet to slow drying time, wire mesh for shear resistance, dry pack mix which is sand and concrete, then the RedGard waterproofing layer on top.
Can i apply it over gorilla glue?
I'm not sure. Best of luck with your project.
Excellent video! So glad to see him wearing the air mask that's recommended in the directions. They clearly state there are SERIOUS haszords to your lungs if not wearing protection. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching!
RedGard needs to pay you, seriously.
I wish. For now we'll just have to settle for likes on the internet. Hope you found it helpful.
You deluted RedGard 1:4 to pre-prime. Do you delute it for main layers?
No dilution was made for the main layers.
@@practicalhomeprojects thank you
I wouldn't use Redgard on any showers. It's known to re emulsify and bleed pink through you grout joints. If you use Aquabar first you won't need to waterproof your shower other then the pan but get that hotmopped, that's the best way to go. If you really want to get down, float your shower with concrete. I floated all my showers until I got too old but then I started using Denshield. Score and snap, way less labor intensive.
Thanks for the input; hopefully we don't have that issue. I've seen hot mopped showers, it looks reliable but not DIY friendly. RedGard has been used in hundreds of thousands of showers for decades, so I would expect that if instructions are followed then there won't be any issues. We'll keep an eye out though.
Red guard kind of sucks, if it isn't done perfectly it will fail