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subSEEEEEquent. I can't take you seriously.

In Mexico the pvc flexible conduit comes with a pull wire inside the tube. But we should have pulled the cable through before installing. A kink in the tube in a concrete floor caused great grief, and no wire could get through.

Isn't that part of what multi-wire branch circuits are for? The box my garbage disposal switch is in has a hot from both phases of power and one neutral.

great video.... greater sideburns 10/10

Very helpful vid., including those from other viewers. Thx for putting this together.

Hi. Thanks for this. My board didn’t pass the shorting test on the test pins so I got a new one. That one failed as well and I tried a third one. Is there another reason that shorting the rest pins isn’t activating anything? Am I not shorting it correctly?

Why do I never see anyone taping their concrete joints

Those are some fuggin sweet chops my guy

I have a similar problem and 2 questions. My outdoor unit is freezing up. Defrost tstat is closed and when the jumper is put into test mode, the unit goes into defrost until tstat opens. However when jumper is installed in normal op ,30/60/90, the defrost cycle does not run, (tstat is closed at this point) Is it possible that the defost timer on the pcb is bad ? I ordered a new defrost pcb. Is it ok to heat the house on Emergency Heat mode until pcb arrives ? Thanks

Cant trust a guy who cant shave his nasty sideburns

excellent video myfriend, i will practicing on a mockup drywall soon.

Cheapest .223 ammo you can find 🙂

Thank you

another thing you can do is take a spade shovel and dig about 4 or 5 foot down then hit the rod in once you get rod where you want it fill dirt back in

Thanks I’m about to do the dive .

I really learned a lot from this video thank you !

This guy loves using that word 😂

hard as hell to pull wire in ribbed liquidtite. Even 6 feet is hard. Man PVC should have been cheaper and easier.

They sell one that has 3 filter tubes instead of 1. Is that necessary?

I like the double alpine knot tip! When I used the rope saw, I secured a second rope on a branch higher than the branch I was cutting. Then, after I had cut the branch about 1/2 way, I could pull on the other rope, and control the direction of the fall. This strategy also helped with the problem of the chain binding.

Excellent video, concise and informative!

Genuine intelligence

What about sinks with a separate tube for hot and cold water? My faucet exclusively mixes them

Use a grounding plate on difficult soil. Less painful

I have a grout business, no new installs. Just grout. Cutouts/regrouts, deep steaming etc. I exclusively use mapei fa. There were some great points in this vid, just thought I'd add some thoughts. -The hotter anything is, the less working time you will have. You can put your gallon of distilled water and even the powder itself in the fridge overnight. Even the temp of the tile itself makes a difference, though it's not usually worth focusing that unless it's really hot climate with no AC. -A lot of us mix at a higher ratio than 3:1. Mixes and colors vary, but I'm usually in the 4.5:1 to 5:1 ratio. -A food scale is key for small batches. If you aren't sure what ratio to use, try one in a very small batch, see if that's optimal, and then throw it away and mix at that ratio. -Dry blend all powder together in a 5 gallon bucket before starting. If you think you'll need two bags, blend those together then pull from that when weighing batches. Even just one bag, dry stirring first works far better than just shaking the bag to ensure color consistency. -Do not use tap water if distilled is an option. -Mix by hand. I use a hard silicone kitchen tool that's kind of like a spatula but it's hard and wide, but most pros I know just use their margin trowel. -The working time of 50+ minutes mentioned in this video is pretty optimistic. Great if it happens, but prepare for as little as a 20-25 minute working time window. -Water entering the equation after the mix is the reason for 90% of the issues commonly seen. This could be adding water later, or more commonly using too wet of a sponge - often in a panic as the grout is setting up faster than expected. The grout float or a silicone wiping tool should be getting nearly all the grout off the wall before sponging - the sponge step should be able to be done with very little pressure and a barely wet VERY wrung out sponge in a pass or two. Just enough to get the grout out of any texture and to shape the lines a bit. If your grout is crumbly, dry, transferring color, or is able to be scraped with a fingernail this is almost certainly the reason. -A solvent based sealer is ideal for this stuff. It may advertise no sealer required, but it absolutely benefits from it. A water base sealer will have trouble penetrating the grout if it was sponged correctly, but a solvent base (like miracle 511) works wonders. -Grout float types make a difference. Superiorbilt platinum is my daily driver for non textured tile. It's uncomfortably heavy, but retains enough pressure on the edges without squishing to basically blade off the grout. Softer floats squish just a little too much on the edges for my taste. The cleaner the tile is pre-sponge, the easier that step will be. G'luck out there

You could have at least used a real hammer, not a claw hammer designed to drive nails!

Thats Ben Franklin not Edison

very informative video. However, at timestamp 1:52 the cable you're showing has 4 wires and that's not comparable apples-to-apples to the cable you're showing at timestamp 0:45, which has only 3 wires. Most outdoor use cases only nee 3 wires, unlike indoor use cases, like 3-way circuits, which require 4 wires.

@practcalhomeprojects. Why the need for 2 grounding rods? I never heard of anyone doing that.

Is this a sand grout?

For electric fence application you could do a test first by just doing one rod a foot or two in the ground and see how many volts are getting. Before you go to the store and buy 36 foot grounding rods

Have you installed these on a concrete floor where it is over the slope of the floor

Luckily I watched a few videos like yours before I used this grout on our shower floor and had no problems. It's also the only grout I've ever used that does not stain and has stayed consistent over the years, Mapei does need to be more clear with the directions, especially about using cool water and hand mixing or using a very slow drill speed

If my grout doesn't quite fill up the cracks between the tiles (I'm doing a mosaic), can you go back over the tiles with a new layer of grout after the first layer has hardened?

Always wet ur rod

@practicalhomeprojects, why do you have two grounding rods installed?

My husband and I just used this and loved it, but a couple weeks after letting it dry, if we rub our fingers on it, we come up with a significant amount of color transfer to our hands. Is this normal?

I am using this in a few days and this video is tremendously helpful. Thank you.

I have a slightly easier technique. Get 2 pairs of Vise-Grips. Put one on each side of the ground rod. Those are your handles. Now use about a third of a cup of water as you work the rod up and down with a little twist. So easy when you have the "grab handles" on the rod via the Vise-Grips.

Great video full of practical tips!

Great magic super

Thank you for an excellent tutorial. I'm glad I watched this video before applying RedGard. I was going to go straight to the one-coat method. I think some people might call priming overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I use a dog toy called a Kong ball to throw a weight. It is rubber like and has a hole through the middle for rope.

NEC calls for 25 OHMS of resistance. What is the number ?

Sorry but I have to say it.... Diez nuts!

On all your joints On Hardiboard or Durarock you should be using the grey (alkaloid resistant) fiber tape you said not to use and fortified (polymer added for flexibility) thin-set to feather them closed before you even touch the wall with Redguard. Never ever use Redguard as part of your support structure for your joints.

I watched an old electrician put one with with bare hands without water.....seems water would be the way to go for sure

I went to check the upper thermostat with the breaker turned off and it sparked a lot. It sounded like water was still filling up, but after it sparked it stopped. The end of the red part of the multimeter is burned. Why would that happen if I turned off at the breaker? I don't know if it is even safe to turn the breaker back on.

I just used this on a floor and everything was great except the color looks a little too light. Can I use a colorant on this stuff to darken it?

very good 👍