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Guess he should've watched your videos before he started. Just like i did! And because i watched your videos i have a fantastic shower, leak free for 2.5 yrs so far. Thanks again!!! Thanks for all your tutelage.
I’m not cheap so I do buy new spacers for most jobs it’s just nice to use new spaces that are not covered in thin set or have been stepped on . Use bricks for a shower curb and leave and inch for tile,liner,dura rock and tile.
Most of the comments I see in here are pointing directly to the bad installers but a lot of these situations are created because customers don't want to pay the real cost of doing a shower and they choose to hire whoever is cheaper...I've been doing tile for over 18 yrs and is always the same situation :I give the estimate to the customer and they call me later and said: I'm sorry but we have to hire someone else because you price is too high so sometimes they get what they paid for....
Regardless of the price that was given to the customer by any contractor. If the contractor said that they would do the job it should have been done correctly. Research, experience, and honesty go a long way.
I agree with you to a point. When they request half down, that's a big red flag. Many contractors lack the proper training. They did not go through apprenticeship.
I put a showing in a couple of years ago. Still working like a charm. Started out and had no clue what I was doing. Bought a ready pan and some water proofing membrane and boom. Shower! No leaks years later, still looks like new. Not rocket science here folks, only carpentry and a bit of plumbing.
I first off want to thank you for your videos. I am a "DIY'er" but I had enough common sense to do my research before I even though about taking on my own shower. I'll say I watched a ton of your videos and I feel it really helped me with the success of my project. Thanks again. If it would've let me, I'd have uploaded a pic for you to critique... 😉
We built a new home. I, home owner, Ran into just what you described. Plumber installed our shower mixer valve in correct place and the builders foreman (knowledgeable older carpenter) installed the solid surface master shower (large) and cut hole for finish escutcheon plate BUT they cut hole bigger in solid surface wall material than plate! I (home owner) made a quarter round out of the waste material to hide the gap. This would have been the second app panel they would have ruined, the first one broke then they cut out for the in-wall shower caddy. I was doing my own finish carpentry and on-site so I got a big chuckle out of this commotion. I believe that just because you have worked for thirty years does not mean you are a craftsman or care about detail. This new home building process, our first, has taught me that a home owner has to watch everything and ask questions and STOP the laborers when they are doing something wrong! This experience has confirmed that most Laborers do not care about the details as it is not their house but yet they get paid for making your dream come to life. Rough in framers were the worst as they worked only with the raw product and materials and don’t usually get to see the final results or care. This gent seems to care there needs to be more caring craftsmen!
As a tile guy of over 20 years, everything pointed out in this video is correct. These are all serious issues that can lead to very expensive and even dangerous consequences if not done correctly. But don't hate on the man for new spacers lol I just had to get a few new bags myself.
Thanks for pointing out all the pitfalls and mistakes on this one, especially on a wood floor that might leak into the crawl space or a first floor. Some DIYers can't do all the stages and depend on contractor talent to get them through to the next stage. You have to trust that they are doing it correctly and your video was a good checklist to ensure that.
Guys only half right, I always tape and actually mortar my corners then redgaurd then tile and my corners are sealed and perfect 9os with a square every installation
I don't know where you live, so I'm not saying you are wrong. Because different places, different rules. Some places you don't want to mud the corners, you leave 1/8th gap, to allow for shifting and stress. The red guard is flexible, and allows for movement. If the gap is filled it will pop stuff. But like I said, different rules, not saying you are wrong.
This is already an older video and I've watched it again ..... you give soooo much in each and every video and been glad to be a subscriber. Hope your week is going perfectly and thanks for this glorious channel.
Starr!! I absolutely love all your videos I’ve been following you for years now and I love your brutal honesty, The keeps me going Master, thank you for all that you’ve shown me! I’ve been in the tile trade over 25 years now and there’s never a dull moment and there’s always something new to learn watching your videos! (From one Tile Master to Another’)🤙🏻
Thank you sir for being such a loyal follower, and yes I do have some sharp edges 😂😂😂 And many have been cut by them... But I do appreciate all the kind words and your loyalty ✌👍💪
I did my walk in shower 5 years ago, only my 3rd tile job. Oh boy I learned a lot from that. I would have never passed it for a customer though. But it won't leak and only a few imperfections that I'll notice (well I'm sure a lot of you guys would lol). Redgard is great stuff.
I knew this guy who did his own labor and sold the house. He outsourced what he couldn't do of course most of the carpentry but he put down his tile in the kitchen in the last piece near the door, the first one you look at when you walk in was crooked. Lol, I didn't say anything. The house was actually reconstructed on a house that had burned down and was rebuilt on the original slab. The brick walls in the back were settling and pulling away from the cornish. Problems abound fyi as this was just one.
Its' interesting you pointed out "redgard doesn't need tape, that its redundant". Redgard is a crack prevention membrane but it's a system that does require tape, other wise why would they tell you to use it. Redgard even has their own brand of mesh tape specifically for joints and corners..
You're most likely correct, however I don't follow the rules, if there's no problem then there's no solution.. But I would challenge you to paint two or three coats of redgard on a surface, peel it up, stretch it, then stretch some tape and see which one gives the most... I already know the answer but you can test it yourself. And when I say that I don't use tape because it's redundant I don't advocate that other people don't, if you wanted use tape and redgard then go for it.
@@StarrTile fair enough. I'd rather follow manufacturer's recommendations in hopes the warranty covers any fault in the system.. 🤷🏼♂️ I like your content though! Cheers mate!
@@StarrTile on a side note do you think a slurry coat is needed over a concrete slab when doing dry pack? I mean why does it need to be binded that well when it's allowed to float over water proofing membranes..? I used a sealer on the concrete slab first.. think it should be fine.
I don't do drypack on slabs unless it's a curbless shower on a slab, and then yes, a slurry of thinset 1st and mortar that is wetter than a drypack. To your question, concrete absorbs moisture out of your mortar whereas none is absorbed with a liner...so adhesion of the mortar isn't guaranteed or consistent to the slab especially if you mix your mortar without enough water.
The pan liner should go in before the hardi-backer/ cement board and extend at least 6 inches up the walls. Made this comment mid-video. You covered it. It's so frustrating to see that people do this type of work. The customer is paying good money for good work. I've only been doing tile for 8 years but I learned and worked side by side with a great contractor. Peeks Tile Oakhurst CA.
Haha, great video. Back in the day, I told my business school prof that the program needed examples of failed businesses and analysis of why and how they failed along with successes. Good to see you helping people out like this.
I'm having a tub to shower conversion, hiring a contractor. Been watching a lot of your videos and now I know what to look for while they work instead of being kept in the dark and having no idea.
Hire an expert with good references and you will get good results. If learned anything from this video it has to be that this guy is getting ready to bid this project and using his assumptions to justify a higher cost to correct what he thinks needs brought up to grade. He doesn’t know the project history but he knows the client will feel forced to pay to bring him in to fix it. Hire a pro.
The role of tape is for the corners an seams. Red guard an other roll on waterproofing have a tendency to leave pinholes even with multiple coats. The roll stops that from happening. The mastic is fine to use in showers as long as the tile that's being used needs no larger that a 1/4 notch for its application any larger and it will not dry. You should never use mastic on a shower floor or curb. In that case you are correct it will never dry out completely an you will definitely have tile adhesion failure. Like the vids.
If I were to bid a job like this I would do everything that needed to be done in that area plumbing,Sheetrock,and framing if need be , and tile ,that way you don’t have someone that thinks they’re helping you out but in fact are creating more work for you .I need to know that everything is done right .everything needs to happen in stages . As for the spacers I always keep every size in stock and according to the size of the job you may need to purchase a bag or two more,and I am positive that one bag of spacers is not going to be enough to do the tile with . I have subbed a lot of work out over the years and I usually can tell if someone knows what they are doing within 15 minutes of talking with them. No disrespect to anyone that reads this but I have never had to go back and fix a mess up from a sub . I take pride in what I do and everyone that has worked for or does work for me I hold them to that level also.
Redguard has a tendency to crack, especially with temperature swings. Seen it several times on showers against outside walls. Fiberglass fabric is really cheap, and I feel is a must for reinforcing the waterproofing membrane on all inside corners. Just my 2 cents we aren't all in georgia
Redguard cracks in thin and in heaven application, the fiber mesh and redguard is a good combo to strengthen the seal in the seams. Or we can use a higher quality moisture barrier.
Yeah, I'm having my shower done now and I asked the guy why he didn't use redguard and he said it doesn't do well in TN and plus I was on an outside wall. I sàidvi saw it on RUclips and he laughed 😂. But he does have buckets of old used spacers lol.
Red guard fails it takes three coats to achieve a water proof surface, membrane is much better. I start off with water proof materials not cement board. Yes it’s been used for ever but them days have passed to go board or kirti board with water proof banding
I wanna know your opinion on the most recent video about fixing the plumbing. Is that normal for bad plumbers? Or is that a DIY'er? With all the shark bites and transitions from copper to pvc?
I can see another potential problem, two different materials used in the sub floor. Also, even though it's allowed, OSB is a bad idea under a shower, or anywhere in a bathroom floor really, I wouldn't build a shed with it to be honest. If it was existing it should have been replaced with plywood to match the rest, if it was new it shouldn't have been used at all. The new plywood (it looks pretty weathered to me) should have been screwed down to the joists preferably, but they did not use anywhere near enough nails. You have a point about blocking around the base of the shower, the pan needs to attach to something, and around the edges of the concrete board.
As a homeowner I hate having to renovate a shower that was previously done by a so called tile contractor. I have very little confidence in many contractors. In my job dealing with contractors I have to trust but verify ALWAYS!!!!
This is a textbook reason why you don’t use unskilled labor. I know the price hurts but factor it in. Years from when it was finished it will still be beautiful and operating properly
I used that acrylpro adhesive on a small floor, shower , and then on bathtub surround. This is in arizona, very dry climate and it was before I found your channel. So far, it's held up for 3 years. No loose tiles. I however was "fixing" some handyman's work, that my mom had hired. Anyway, after learning more, I realized I made a few mistakes, but my mom doesn't have the money to fix it right. Slab on grade, and was a drop in shower pan, so no mud needed for the floor. Hopefully it lasts for her.
The fibre tape simply keeps everything attached and moves together if it does move. On the reddgard bucket it says it is not required but it's recommended for any horizontal planes. I use it on any horizontal planes and use silicone first on the verticals, then regard everything together with 2 coats. This helps to not lay on reddgard too thick which can have mud cracking, due to the surface drying too quickly. I personally like reddgard much better than any membranes I've used though, seems more flexible and dummy proof as well.
@@HomeGrownPyro1 not personally, I usually just buy the big buckets or Redgard. But I know other installers and they said they liked it. I also really like using mapei for other products, definitely have confidence in their products
Maybe you already know this but I just thought I'd throw it out there. silicone does not stick to rearguard. The more u know. And I generally use rearguard, if Im remembering correctly Aqua Defense is basically the same as red g. Just a green/blue color.
Water proof membranes are the way to go. So much 2-3 more companies have followed Schluter. Redgard actually req 3-6 applications to make it to the desired thickness. Haven’t used cement board in 15 yrs and not going back.
I consider myself an advanced DIYer... worked for a neighbor GC growing up (30ish years ago and learned a lot) while in high school and college/ROTC and STILL enjoy DIY projects - therapy now that I do program management/office work. I don’t move at a money making pace but a firm believer in focusing on the prep and “stuff you don’t see” to ensure the finished product functions well and looks great. I refer to online resources for trade work I’m not familiar with, learn new concepts, and to ensure I ask the right questions when I hire someone for a job. Your video is the first I’ve seen that focuses on mistakes and/or alternate methods for getting a better result. I personally like negative feedback/pointing out mistakes (that type of feedback is hard to get) because that’s another way of learning. Granted, some things in you video may be “in the noise” but the person receiving the feedback can decide what to use. Bottom line, great feedback and it confirmed I’ve been making the right decisions on my small job.
Thank you for this video. I’m trying to do my due diligence and THIS video was perfect. I’m learning and I absolutely love the “what not to do” videos. Thank you. I needed this. I’m going to subscribe now and check out your other videos immediately!
good video. Seems to be easier and safer to just install a prebuilt pan. Takes out all the concerns of leaks as long as the drain has proper thinkset and the wonderboard goes on the inside lip of the pan. The extra cost of the custom built pan can offset the labor also.
Acryl-Pro is mastic. Custom Building even says "Sometimes referred to as a mastic" in their promo video about it on their channel. Premixed thinset is just mastic with sand in it to give it more body. Mastic is weird stuff, I personally love it for backsplashes. One crazy Jamaica style thing I personally did was put 2x2' mosaics that were a dollar a sheet on clearance up on plywood OUTDOORS above my mailbox as the tile cost less than new lattice would. I had leftover Mapei mastic from a backsplash and grout, I waited 3 days for the mastic to set up fully, and grouted it, and it's survived at least one winter so far with no cracked grout (except I grouted the perimeter, so that cracked...) or loose tiles. The problem with mastic is it needs time to dry, and people using it are using it mainly to save time using thinset and cut a corner. People tend to grout it right away, and try to get their showers in service right away, when you need a longer cure time than thinset. Of course once you get to 12x12' or so tiles it becomes basically impossible for it to ever dry under the tile. The other problem with mastic is mastic isn't compatible with Redgard, and Mapei's isn't compatible with Aquadefense. I think Tec makes the only mastic compatible with their own waterproofer. Some type of chemical reaction occurs. With Wonderboard, btw, it's designed with the "tape" side being smooth for mastic application using it with plastic behind it, and the rough side with no tape for thinset.
I used mastic to do my own shower, using 16" porcelain. (Didn't know any better.) Don't remember why I had to pull a tile, but, no, it doesn't dry for a looong time. Don't think I grouted for two weeks or so. And I never got around to sealing it.But the shower is still in daily use over ten years later. Back then we had 7 people using the shower. Still have 3 people using it. I really don't understand why so many shower projects fail. I also used 12" porcelain directly on top of formica countertop using modified thinset. Also takes a long time to dry. Also worked perfectly fine.
I don’t get your comment at all! Mastic for setting time? Gluing tile down? Why not do a job right and do it once. If you have anything leftover after you finish a job throw it away, don’t save for another job. Tile needs to be set with thin set and thin set alone. Then grouped with a hood grout such as Custom Prism or Fusion Pro. That’s all of course after waterproofing. Schluter-Kerri shower pan and membrane will get you a good seal all the way around. Staying with one manufacturers solution vs mixing manufacturers is a safe game plan.
Hey I’m glad I found your videos ! I’m a DIY’er and I’m finishing my basement. The whole plumbing is done, framing is done now I’m up to the part where I have to prepare the shower. I have a cement floor.. I’m looking on RUclips how to make a shower curb, how to level it properly, how to water proof it, etc.. I’m very thankful that I found your channel and before I start I’m going to watch all your videos. I’m very excited to finish my bathroom but also a bit scared…
Thanks for your great insights! I always put ice and water grace down to the rubber pan behind all duro rock, especially when I do several benches and shelves in the shower. The screws for the duro rock are sealed behind the duro rack by the grace ice and water membrane. Also I always make the tile go 6 " past the glass door into the bathroom. this makes a more beautiful job and a more waterproof one. What do you think?
Ya def center up your shower diverter but i will say i have taken down a few tile showers for updates and to my surprise was sheet rock and it was dry and it held smh they did do a vapor barrier behind it So the backer board with thin set and tape is pretty spot on I still use aqua defense but honestly if done properly probably do not need it good call on the pt thou kiln dried white wood is the best in my opinion
Oh Comon man give the guy a break , he’s a grass cutter by day and shower guy by night lol 45 years doing this stuff myself by myself so it’s done right . Too many so called pro’s that don’t know and wing it Great video my friend
One of the oldest tricks in the book is the contractor buys more material than needed, charge the customer for it plus mark up, then return the customer's material to the hardware store. I worked in a hardware store in highschool and college and I saw this almost every day.
A slight variation on this and avoiding incurring handling fees is where contractors keep hold of the excess materials and soon have enough for another job where the client pays for materials and it's pure profit for the contractor.
I always leave left over product for the person even if I bought it cause they paid for it. And give them the receipt if they wanna return it. It's a win win
I think the main point is, yes, as someone who does this work I could argue every individual issue he is pointing out to some degree. I use lots of different spacers some I have large amounts of some I do buy for each job, he could easily just have yet to screw and add a layer of ply on the floor, noone knows if that's all his materials or some if what he dropped off from the job before or if the mastic was in case he was to do wall tile outside the shower, etc..... Its not any one thing but the proliferation of common enough mistakes yet to happen.
Good morning brother. I'm sure that people who do tile and make these mistakes appreciate that you bring to their attention the mistakes they made. I remodel homes, I've been in the construction industry for most of my life, I was a journeyman taper in the Union. My knowledge comes from working for companies, and making my mistakes. I know that my jobs are done professionally because I learned over the years the do's and the don'ts. I still use Hardie backer and wonderboard, but I'm gearing towards Schluter Kerri Board, Laticrete Hydro Ban Board, Ditra, just to name a few. Thank you brother for your videos keep up the good work.
@@adnanlimited most tile guys carry plenty of old spacers in their trucks/vans. Same with thinset and other materials. Also sometimes you’ll bring materials day to day based on your setting goal. Just bc he’s light on material doesn’t mean anything. The fact he’s using those shitty spacers says more than anything about his experience
I am on this same job today. Done by a supposed contractor. It’s at 90% done, badly. So I am going to have to tear it all out and start over. Funniest part is I was at this house back in December doing some flooring and countertops. They hired the other guy instead of me because he was going to get it done faster than I said I could. Now it’s March and it’s still not done. I said I would be finished with both bathrooms by early February at the latest. I work alone so it does take me a little longer than if I had help. The other bathroom I can salvage I hope.
As a contractor, I hate finishing a job someone else started. So much more expensive when you have to fix other people's mistakes, or fix the fail after the other guy gets paid and never shows up again.
You are on point for so many things. But I'm learning NOT to re-use spacers. They get mortar on them, you have to wash them, dry them, store them. At 4 bucks a bag (average) it's just not worth it to maintain/inventory all those different spacers.
It is entertaining to me how so many are focused on the new spacers this guy bought when it was only one of a dozen different things that I talked about. But I guess more to the point and I should have specified on the video, those spacers had no place to be there since with a large format tile he should have bought leveling clips...and in fact the box of used spacers that I carry around haven't been used in years. Large format tiles basically made spacers irrelevant.
I worked for a contractor who would have us lay only 1 coat of AquaDefense because “it is expensive.” I worked for a different contractor who had the contract for the county’s Housing Authority. They decided to have the showers in 14 duplexes, 28 showers, upgraded to tile. He purposely used unmodified masonry to tile a few of the showers because he knew that they would eventually fail and they would have to pay him to fix them.
In ny, on slabs we put one layer of pressure treated down first and then the other two pieces are regular. Like when framing a basement, pt as bottom plate. But yeah makes no sense for upstairs at sll
I love to learn how to do things and really appreciate people like you who take the time and effort to explain things. That said, if you use stationary a tripod for your camera your videos would improve greatly and be less dizzying to watch. Also, as some have suggested a little less chatting and more of just getting to the point. The intro can be cut to a few seconds. A good ten minutes or more could be cut from this video and it would still be great.
Unfortunately, I get about 40 to 50 thousand views daily across my channel. I cannot possibly know people's knowledge or lack thereof. So I go into more detail than probably is necessary.
I'm doing my 3rd bathroom while wall tile and everything. My first tiled floor pan an curb. It's easier with a pre fab floor pan but I'm taking all this advice to heart with the knowledge I have now. Thanks buddy. I won't do what you said not to do lol.
//...ITS GREAT TO SEE A PROPER TRADESMEN THATS KNOWS HIS TRADE....IM A LICENSED TRADESMENS IN ANOTHER TRADE...BUT I CAN SEE WHAT A MESS THIS JOB IS.... I HAD AN UNCLE THAT WAS A STONE MASON AND BUILDER....AND HE HAD A WAITING LIST OF CUSTOMERS FOR HIS WORK .....BECAUSE HE DID THE JOB PROPERLY !!
Im new to ur page I'm watching your video and I saw that the concrete Durock had already been put on before the liner for the poured concrete base I was getting really worried that I'd been doing it wrong I 100% agree with you on the steps that you take to do it right
Whole point of spacers is a uniform measurement throughout, I stick loyal with my dude Tavy. Maybe it’s cause I use a lot of 1/16 and 3/32 line almost exclusively, I feel they make a good tile job pop even more. If you come to with the site with spin doctors for tile that’s not at least 3-4 square feet and warped to shit, I already know you can’t level and plumb your mud to within a grain of sand’s accuracy! 😂
Wowww!!! You are saving so many future from future disasters; please keep on doing what you're doing!! I truly learn as much or MORE in videos of 'work done wrong' than in the usual 'how to install' videos... Thank you!!
What is tape used for.... It's a crack preventer same as on your drywall... What does it say on a label of redgard, it is a crack preventer... If you want to use tape I have no issues with it, but if you're already using a crack preventer then why would you use tape as a crack preventer, it's illogical
I finished a job that looked like this when I got there. I removed the lower piece of wallboard, before starting. I’d love to see you show the process in full, instead of drawing assumptions before the tile installer even mixed a bag of mud. Looks like the prep was not done...yet, by the installer.
Except this guy wasn't mixing anything...He was using a pre-mixed tile adhesive which is completely different from mortar. Why would you buy mortar and tile adhesive? Because you don't know what you are doing...
@@shittyopinions Never heard of Acrylpro, but data sheet is saying it's made specifically for tub surround and shower walls. So seems like his plan was the bag of thinset for floor tile and Acrylpro for wall tile. This doesn't sound like a crazy plan yet, maybe not what I'd choose but not like he picked out joint compound or anything. It does say not to use over non-porous surfaces, so curious what the Acrylpro + RedGard plan was going to be...
@@shittyopinions Yeah, I've never used it but I personally wouldn't choose it for a shower - even if just talking walls. Point was the item wasn't a crazy choice itself; if he's Redgarding the walls fully (probable based on glimpsing supplies) and then using the adhesive directly on top it's going to be problematic... but those are all guesses.
Thank you. Have actually watched someone use mastic in a shower install and told him that I t was my first time watching someone use mastic in a shower always seen motor mix myself because of the dampness. You have just confirmed my suspicion. Thank you
Maybe its cuz I'm a few beers in on a Friday, but the handheld POV is dizzying. Please get a tripod! I watched till the end. You can definitely talk into the camera.
No, you're not negative. Showing the pitfalls and mistakes are excellent. I once heard a tile guy say the tile covers mistakes. He was immediately off my big job. The guy I had do it, some 28 years ago said the substrate must be solid and he will not lay a tile on plywood as one guy said it would save money. I have done several smaller tile projects myself. I have done shower pans, bath floors. Everything begins with the rough in work being solid and centered. I was hired help on a roof job last year. (I'm retired, small jobs are okay)The guy I worked with cut corners and said it won't matter. It's in a senior development and he said she will be gone before they notice. He justified a crap build by saying that's what the customer wanted. I said no to a tub install when the owner wanted a lot of cut corners to save money. I believe the owner in this video wanted cheap, so they got cheap.
This brings back memories to an old job I was going to do for a so called friend. He wanted me to do tile work for his company. First day on the job I arrive to the shower thinking that i was going to be doing all the work to it.. but he had his drywall guys do all the backer board and 2 niche areas for the shower because they were cheaper and faster... they used nothing but drywall mud and mesh tape to cover the seams and corners.. including the niche areas. They literally got done mudding the walls when i arrived(mud still very much wet) and my so called friend said it was ready to go for tile work and that i can start right away. I was baffled by what his workers did to the shower. Told him that there was no way in hell that i was going to shower that bathroom. Of course he was pissed cause he didnt see anything wrong with it. I spent the next hr explaining why thats not right and that all that work is going to have to get torn down and redone the right way.. I decided to take a walk around the house to see what else was done wrong to it.. I noticed some very sketchy work with plumbing and electrical that was being done to it. I ended up going to the town and bringing it up and the town took care of it. That so called friend and I never spoke afterwards. The sad part is that i have a few friends that are still Friends with him and he still works in construction and is still doing shitty work on people's houses.. I hope his company gets shut down some day.
1st Off, lets stop with the blame game, I mean really? The obvious problem here is not so much the tile guy but the home owners acting as a general contractor and hiring several contractors to do different things when it was obvious that the homeowners were in over their head. 1 if the plumbing was wrong, that's the plumbers issue and the home owner should have had them fix it. 2 the dry wall guy hung the backer board so he could do his drywall, not his job and if I was the tile guy, I'd be pissed because it all has to come off. 3 as the the tile guy, I don't work for free, so I'm not taking off the backer board, I'm not fixing the plumbing and I hardly doubt that the homeowner was willing to pay the tile guy to redo what the plumber and drywall guy did. Bottom line, hire the a contractor that will complete the entire job and saver yourself the headache of having things done out of order costing you more money to fix. As far as what the tile guy was really up to, you make a lot assumptions and a lot finger pointing. There was some items that are not so great to use like the pressure treated lumber and the premix thin set but the rest was just you complaining.
You are absolutely correct, almost without exception when a homeowner becomes a GC things go south... As to me complaining too much, that's what I do, ppl need to hear it all so they don't get caught up. You would be amazed how many "shirt and ties" have no clue about anything.
I see this often, homeowner assumes the role of contractor and subs out all the work. But had no clue how all of this work should come together, then like u said the blame game starts, and good trades get a bad rep
C&LAuto Snider just imagine your a regular homeowner, that doesn’t even know what to look at to find bad work. Then the job is complete and the least you’d be doing is kicking your teeth in, prob go physco crazy knowing it has to be all ripped out
The squeak on the subfloor isn’t wood rubbing on wood, it’s wood rubbing on nails from the deflection. If tile wasn’t being installed you could throw in a few screws to get rid of the squeak. Just FYI…
I think we need to get away from the idea that a drain has to be in the Middle. That is the spot a person would be standing, so move it to the side/up- down, left-right.
@John Peters For aesthetics - they should either be way off on purpose (side / far wall for instance) or lined up, not slightly off, that looks like an install mistake.
The "mesh tape" as you call it, it great for tile (if using a schluter or wedi board). Actual mesh tape (3" or 6" with little holes) is what you should use on fire places or with wonderboard (aka crap board). Redguard is a great product if applies properly, 3 coats and allowing a day to two days between coats for drying. Great video a lot of great knowledge.
I feel for the customer here. What I am actually hearing you say is this is going to add $$$, oh my God this will cost even more now & oh my goodness the terrible prep means I have to charge even more. Ou de like you’re the best tile guy in America. Just ask you, you will tell us....
Great information. I felt a little seasick with all that camera motion, so slow it down a bit please. Skip the justification summary in the beginning. It was almost 3 minutes in before we get to see what we came to see. Glad someone is doing quality work.
I’ve had this before. Unfortunately some people don’t understand that undoing bad work is an extra cost on top of even doing the job properly. Sometimes you are better off walking away.
Tile adhesive is mastic. Acrylpro is mastic. He was going to use that on the wall. The fabric tape is great. It increases the thickness of the waterproofing, it joins the boards together and it reenforces the corners making it crack proof. It seems to me he was going to glue the pan liner up the walls lol He was going to fuck up this job big time. Lol
Хобби
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Guess he should've watched your videos before he started. Just like i did! And because i watched your videos i have a fantastic shower, leak free for 2.5 yrs so far. Thanks again!!! Thanks for all your tutelage.
I say critique, critique, critique...the biggest, and the littlest details! No apologies necessary.
The folks that are saying you're too picky are the guys installing failing showers.
Exactly
I’m not cheap so I do buy new spacers for most jobs it’s just nice to use new spaces that are not covered in thin set or have been stepped on . Use bricks for a shower curb and leave and inch for tile,liner,dura rock and tile.
Most of the comments I see in here are pointing directly to the bad installers but a lot of these situations are created because customers don't want to pay the real cost of doing a shower and they choose to hire whoever is cheaper...I've been doing tile for over 18 yrs and is always the same situation :I give the estimate to the customer and they call me later and said: I'm sorry but we have to hire someone else because you price is too high so sometimes they get what they paid for....
Same issue every day! ;(
Regardless of the price that was given to the customer by any contractor. If the contractor said that they would do the job it should have been done correctly. Research, experience, and honesty go a long way.
what county you work???
I agree with you to a point. When they request half down, that's a big red flag. Many contractors lack the proper training. They did not go through apprenticeship.
🎯 I’ve had a few jobs where I had to price match but also assured the customer those prices are production work rather then custom
I put a showing in a couple of years ago. Still working like a charm. Started out and had no clue what I was doing. Bought a ready pan and some water proofing membrane and boom. Shower! No leaks years later, still looks like new. Not rocket science here folks, only carpentry and a bit of plumbing.
I first off want to thank you for your videos. I am a "DIY'er" but I had enough common sense to do my research before I even though about taking on my own shower. I'll say I watched a ton of your videos and I feel it really helped me with the success of my project. Thanks again. If it would've let me, I'd have uploaded a pic for you to critique... 😉
I love this guy! Knowledge is power for sure.
This guy is one of the best, if not the best, guys giving directions on building a shower or in what not to do in building a shower.
We built a new home. I, home owner, Ran into just what you described.
Plumber installed our shower mixer valve in correct place and the builders foreman (knowledgeable older carpenter) installed the solid surface master shower (large) and cut hole for finish escutcheon plate BUT they cut hole bigger in solid surface wall material than plate! I (home owner) made a quarter round out of the waste material to hide the gap. This would have been the second app panel they would have ruined, the first one broke then they cut out for the in-wall shower caddy. I was doing my own finish carpentry and on-site so I got a big chuckle out of this commotion. I believe that just because you have worked for thirty years does not mean you are a craftsman or care about detail.
This new home building process, our first, has taught me that a home owner has to watch everything and ask questions and STOP the laborers when they are doing something wrong!
This experience has confirmed that most Laborers do not care about the details as it is not their house but yet they get paid for making your dream come to life.
Rough in framers were the worst as they worked only with the raw product and materials and don’t usually get to see the final results or care.
This gent seems to care there needs to be more caring craftsmen!
Thanks for saving us from mistakes that are probably EASY to make if you’ve never heard of them!!! 😊
As a tile guy of over 20 years, everything pointed out in this video is correct. These are all serious issues that can lead to very expensive and even dangerous consequences if not done correctly. But don't hate on the man for new spacers lol I just had to get a few new bags myself.
Thanks for pointing out all the pitfalls and mistakes on this one, especially on a wood floor that might leak into the crawl space or a first floor. Some DIYers can't do all the stages and depend on contractor talent to get them through to the next stage. You have to trust that they are doing it correctly and your video was a good checklist to ensure that.
Im a new tile contractor and videos like these are super helpful. Technology can be such a beautiful thing. Thank you for your service 💯🙏
That "tape" is a fabric, with no adhesive. It is used on corners as you said. It absorbs the red guard. Like fiberglass with resin.
exactly my tghout
Recommended in Regard installation instructions
Guys only half right, I always tape and actually mortar my corners then redgaurd then tile and my corners are sealed and perfect 9os with a square every installation
I don't know where you live, so I'm not saying you are wrong. Because different places, different rules. Some places you don't want to mud the corners, you leave 1/8th gap, to allow for shifting and stress. The red guard is flexible, and allows for movement. If the gap is filled it will pop stuff. But like I said, different rules, not saying you are wrong.
" Nooooooo....I can't be positive, that's not my purpose"! 🤣😂😂🤣
Still watching your videos from years gone by…still enjoying your content brother!!!
This is already an older video and I've watched it again ..... you give soooo much in each and every video and been glad to be a subscriber. Hope your week is going perfectly and thanks for this glorious channel.
Starr!! I absolutely love all your videos I’ve been following you for years now and I love your brutal honesty, The keeps me going Master, thank you for all that you’ve shown me! I’ve been in the tile trade over 25 years now and there’s never a dull moment and there’s always something new to learn watching your videos!
(From one Tile Master to Another’)🤙🏻
Thank you sir for being such a loyal follower, and yes I do have some sharp edges 😂😂😂
And many have been cut by them...
But I do appreciate all the kind words and your loyalty ✌👍💪
I did my walk in shower 5 years ago, only my 3rd tile job. Oh boy I learned a lot from that. I would have never passed it for a customer though. But it won't leak and only a few imperfections that I'll notice (well I'm sure a lot of you guys would lol). Redgard is great stuff.
I knew this guy who did his own labor and sold the house. He outsourced what he couldn't do of course most of the carpentry but he put down his tile in the kitchen in the last piece near the door, the first one you look at when you walk in was crooked. Lol, I didn't say anything. The house was actually reconstructed on a house that had burned down and was rebuilt on the original slab. The brick walls in the back were settling and pulling away from the cornish. Problems abound fyi as this was just one.
I am glad you are telling them straight. You can't make mistakes with water.
Its' interesting you pointed out "redgard doesn't need tape, that its redundant". Redgard is a crack prevention membrane but it's a system that does require tape, other wise why would they tell you to use it. Redgard even has their own brand of mesh tape specifically for joints and corners..
You're most likely correct, however I don't follow the rules, if there's no problem then there's no solution..
But I would challenge you to paint two or three coats of redgard on a surface, peel it up, stretch it, then stretch some tape and see which one gives the most... I already know the answer but you can test it yourself. And when I say that I don't use tape because it's redundant I don't advocate that other people don't, if you wanted use tape and redgard then go for it.
@@StarrTile fair enough. I'd rather follow manufacturer's recommendations in hopes the warranty covers any fault in the system.. 🤷🏼♂️ I like your content though! Cheers mate!
@@StarrTile on a side note do you think a slurry coat is needed over a concrete slab when doing dry pack? I mean why does it need to be binded that well when it's allowed to float over water proofing membranes..? I used a sealer on the concrete slab first.. think it should be fine.
I don't do drypack on slabs unless it's a curbless shower on a slab, and then yes, a slurry of thinset 1st and mortar that is wetter than a drypack.
To your question, concrete absorbs moisture out of your mortar whereas none is absorbed with a liner...so adhesion of the mortar isn't guaranteed or consistent to the slab especially if you mix your mortar without enough water.
Thank you for the education! I’m a diy-er and really really appreciate your time and expertise. Keep it coming!
The pan liner should go in before the hardi-backer/ cement board and extend at least 6 inches up the walls. Made this comment mid-video. You covered it. It's so frustrating to see that people do this type of work. The customer is paying good money for good work. I've only been doing tile for 8 years but I learned and worked side by side with a great contractor. Peeks Tile Oakhurst CA.
I appreciate your insight old timer. I was fortunate enough to go through my apprenticeship with old salts and I loved their experience and insight
Haha, great video. Back in the day, I told my business school prof that the program needed examples of failed businesses and analysis of why and how they failed along with successes. Good to see you helping people out like this.
I'm having a tub to shower conversion, hiring a contractor. Been watching a lot of your videos and now I know what to look for while they work instead of being kept in the dark and having no idea.
Yes please take these videos with a grain of salt.
Hire an expert with good references and you will get good results. If learned anything from this video it has to be that this guy is getting ready to bid this project and using his assumptions to justify a higher cost to correct what he thinks needs brought up to grade. He doesn’t know the project history but he knows the client will feel forced to pay to bring him in to fix it.
Hire a pro.
The role of tape is for the corners an seams. Red guard an other roll on waterproofing have a tendency to leave pinholes even with multiple coats. The roll stops that from happening. The mastic is fine to use in showers as long as the tile that's being used needs no larger that a 1/4 notch for its application any larger and it will not dry. You should never use mastic on a shower floor or curb. In that case you are correct it will never dry out completely an you will definitely have tile adhesion failure. Like the vids.
No mastic ever in shower it gets soft with water thinset don’t cause it’s concrete
The glue on walls are ok if done right always thin set on curbs & floors
Thanks for pointing out bad mistakes, makes more confident about what I'm doing
If I were to bid a job like this I would do everything that needed to be done in that area plumbing,Sheetrock,and framing if need be , and tile ,that way you don’t have someone that thinks they’re helping you out but in fact are creating more work for you .I need to know that everything is done right .everything needs to happen in stages . As for the spacers I always keep every size in stock and according to the size of the job you may need to purchase a bag or two more,and I am positive that one bag of spacers is not going to be enough to do the tile with . I have subbed a lot of work out over the years and I usually can tell if someone knows what they are doing within 15 minutes of talking with them. No disrespect to anyone that reads this but I have never had to go back and fix a mess up from a sub . I take pride in what I do and everyone that has worked for or does work for me I hold them to that level also.
Redguard has a tendency to crack, especially with temperature swings. Seen it several times on showers against outside walls. Fiberglass fabric is really cheap, and I feel is a must for reinforcing the waterproofing membrane on all inside corners. Just my 2 cents we aren't all in georgia
Only see it crack when applied too thick...otherwise flawless results.
Even in my cardboard box experiment years ago, water in it a week no issues
Redguard cracks in thin and in heaven application, the fiber mesh and redguard is a good combo to strengthen the seal in the seams. Or we can use a higher quality moisture barrier.
Yeah, I'm having my shower done now and I asked the guy why he didn't use redguard and he said it doesn't do well in TN and plus I was on an outside wall. I sàidvi saw it on RUclips and he laughed 😂. But he does have buckets of old used spacers lol.
Red guard fails it takes three coats to achieve a water proof surface, membrane is much better. I start off with water proof materials not cement board. Yes it’s been used for ever but them days have passed to go board or kirti board with water proof banding
@Klondike
I don't know whoever told you that garbage, fake AF tho..
ruclips.net/video/2HOxm40cpBs/видео.html
As a plumber, I don't do the tile work but thanks to these videos I can now see the difference between a good tile job and a bad tile job thx..
I wanna know your opinion on the most recent video about fixing the plumbing. Is that normal for bad plumbers? Or is that a DIY'er? With all the shark bites and transitions from copper to pvc?
Yeah you saved these people from major future problems. Love the video👌
Completely picked apart there whole game plan in 20 mins! Impressive 😂😂😂😊
I can see another potential problem, two different materials used in the sub floor. Also, even though it's allowed, OSB is a bad idea under a shower, or anywhere in a bathroom floor really, I wouldn't build a shed with it to be honest. If it was existing it should have been replaced with plywood to match the rest, if it was new it shouldn't have been used at all. The new plywood (it looks pretty weathered to me) should have been screwed down to the joists preferably, but they did not use anywhere near enough nails. You have a point about blocking around the base of the shower, the pan needs to attach to something, and around the edges of the concrete board.
As a homeowner I hate having to renovate a shower that was previously done by a so called tile contractor. I have very little confidence in many contractors. In my job dealing with contractors I have to trust but verify ALWAYS!!!!
This is a textbook reason why you don’t use unskilled labor. I know the price hurts but factor it in. Years from when it was finished it will still be beautiful and operating properly
I used that acrylpro adhesive on a small floor, shower , and then on bathtub surround. This is in arizona, very dry climate and it was before I found your channel. So far, it's held up for 3 years. No loose tiles. I however was "fixing" some handyman's work, that my mom had hired. Anyway, after learning more, I realized I made a few mistakes, but my mom doesn't have the money to fix it right. Slab on grade, and was a drop in shower pan, so no mud needed for the floor. Hopefully it lasts for her.
The fibre tape simply keeps everything attached and moves together if it does move. On the reddgard bucket it says it is not required but it's recommended for any horizontal planes. I use it on any horizontal planes and use silicone first on the verticals, then regard everything together with 2 coats. This helps to not lay on reddgard too thick which can have mud cracking, due to the surface drying too quickly. I personally like reddgard much better than any membranes I've used though, seems more flexible and dummy proof as well.
Have you tried aqua defense by Mapei?
@@HomeGrownPyro1 not personally, I usually just buy the big buckets or Redgard. But I know other installers and they said they liked it. I also really like using mapei for other products, definitely have confidence in their products
I also like hydro barrier plus
Maybe you already know this but I just thought I'd throw it out there. silicone does not stick to rearguard. The more u know. And I generally use rearguard, if Im remembering correctly Aqua Defense is basically the same as red g. Just a green/blue color.
Water proof membranes are the way to go. So much 2-3 more companies have followed Schluter. Redgard actually req 3-6 applications to make it to the desired thickness. Haven’t used cement board in 15 yrs and not going back.
I consider myself an advanced DIYer... worked for a neighbor GC growing up (30ish years ago and learned a lot) while in high school and college/ROTC and STILL enjoy DIY projects - therapy now that I do program management/office work. I don’t move at a money making pace but a firm believer in focusing on the prep and “stuff you don’t see” to ensure the finished product functions well and looks great. I refer to online resources for trade work I’m not familiar with, learn new concepts, and to ensure I ask the right questions when I hire someone for a job. Your video is the first I’ve seen that focuses on mistakes and/or alternate methods for getting a better result. I personally like negative feedback/pointing out mistakes (that type of feedback is hard to get) because that’s another way of learning. Granted, some things in you video may be “in the noise” but the person receiving the feedback can decide what to use. Bottom line, great feedback and it confirmed I’ve been making the right decisions on my small job.
Wish you lived in philly... i could use quality help like yourself!
Thank you for this video. I’m trying to do my due diligence and THIS video was perfect. I’m learning and I absolutely love the “what not to do” videos. Thank you. I needed this. I’m going to subscribe now and check out your other videos immediately!
good video. Seems to be easier and safer to just install a prebuilt pan. Takes out all the concerns of leaks as long as the drain has proper thinkset and the wonderboard goes on the inside lip of the pan. The extra cost of the custom built pan can offset the labor also.
Acryl-Pro is mastic. Custom Building even says "Sometimes referred to as a mastic" in their promo video about it on their channel. Premixed thinset is just mastic with sand in it to give it more body. Mastic is weird stuff, I personally love it for backsplashes. One crazy Jamaica style thing I personally did was put 2x2' mosaics that were a dollar a sheet on clearance up on plywood OUTDOORS above my mailbox as the tile cost less than new lattice would. I had leftover Mapei mastic from a backsplash and grout, I waited 3 days for the mastic to set up fully, and grouted it, and it's survived at least one winter so far with no cracked grout (except I grouted the perimeter, so that cracked...) or loose tiles.
The problem with mastic is it needs time to dry, and people using it are using it mainly to save time using thinset and cut a corner. People tend to grout it right away, and try to get their showers in service right away, when you need a longer cure time than thinset. Of course once you get to 12x12' or so tiles it becomes basically impossible for it to ever dry under the tile.
The other problem with mastic is mastic isn't compatible with Redgard, and Mapei's isn't compatible with Aquadefense. I think Tec makes the only mastic compatible with their own waterproofer. Some type of chemical reaction occurs. With Wonderboard, btw, it's designed with the "tape" side being smooth for mastic application using it with plastic behind it, and the rough side with no tape for thinset.
I used mastic to do my own shower, using 16" porcelain. (Didn't know any better.) Don't remember why I had to pull a tile, but, no, it doesn't dry for a looong time. Don't think I grouted for two weeks or so. And I never got around to sealing it.But the shower is still in daily use over ten years later. Back then we had 7 people using the shower. Still have 3 people using it.
I really don't understand why so many shower projects fail.
I also used 12" porcelain directly on top of formica countertop using modified thinset. Also takes a long time to dry. Also worked perfectly fine.
I don’t get your comment at all! Mastic for setting time? Gluing tile down? Why not do a job right and do it once. If you have anything leftover after you finish a job throw it away, don’t save for another job.
Tile needs to be set with thin set and thin set alone. Then grouped with a hood grout such as Custom Prism or Fusion Pro. That’s all of course after waterproofing. Schluter-Kerri shower pan and membrane will get you a good seal all the way around. Staying with one manufacturers solution vs mixing manufacturers is a safe game plan.
Hey I’m glad I found your videos ! I’m a DIY’er and I’m finishing my basement. The whole plumbing is done, framing is done now I’m up to the part where I have to prepare the shower. I have a cement floor.. I’m looking on RUclips how to make a shower curb, how to level it properly, how to water proof it, etc.. I’m very thankful that I found your channel and before I start I’m going to watch all your videos. I’m very excited to finish my bathroom but also a bit scared…
Watch copious amounts of videos not just mine but others too and then you'll be on your way to more confident build
I would say I also include spacers as an cost per job as well but your right brother prep work is the biggest part of the job.
Great and Informative videos! Thank YOu.
Can’t never get enough of this videos.
Thanks for your great insights! I always put ice and water grace down to the rubber pan behind all duro rock, especially when I do several benches and shelves in the shower. The screws for the duro rock are sealed behind the duro rack by the grace ice and water membrane. Also I always make the tile go 6 " past the glass door into the bathroom. this makes a more beautiful job and a more waterproof one. What do you think?
Ya def center up your shower diverter but i will say i have taken down a few tile showers for updates and to my surprise was sheet rock and it was dry and it held smh they did do a vapor barrier behind it So the backer board with thin set and tape is pretty spot on I still use aqua defense but honestly if done properly probably do not need it good call on the pt thou kiln dried white wood is the best in my opinion
Oh Comon man give the guy a break , he’s a grass cutter by day and shower guy by night lol
45 years doing this stuff myself by myself so it’s done right . Too many so called pro’s that don’t know and wing it
Great video my friend
One of the oldest tricks in the book is the contractor buys more material than needed, charge the customer for it plus mark up, then return the customer's material to the hardware store. I worked in a hardware store in highschool and college and I saw this almost every day.
A slight variation on this and avoiding incurring handling fees is where contractors keep hold of the excess materials and soon have enough for another job where the client pays for materials and it's pure profit for the contractor.
I always leave left over product for the person even if I bought it cause they paid for it. And give them the receipt if they wanna return it. It's a win win
I think the main point is, yes, as someone who does this work I could argue every individual issue he is pointing out to some degree. I use lots of different spacers some I have large amounts of some I do buy for each job, he could easily just have yet to screw and add a layer of ply on the floor, noone knows if that's all his materials or some if what he dropped off from the job before or if the mastic was in case he was to do wall tile outside the shower, etc..... Its not any one thing but the proliferation of common enough mistakes yet to happen.
It was probably materials left over from another job because one of the red guards had already been used.
Soon as I seen the backer board all the way to the floor with no curb and liner in place , red flags 🇲🇦🇲🇦
Good video, Thank you for sharing
Good morning brother. I'm sure that people who do tile and make these mistakes appreciate that you bring to their attention the mistakes they made. I remodel homes, I've been in the construction industry for most of my life, I was a journeyman taper in the Union.
My knowledge comes from working for companies, and making my mistakes. I know that my jobs are done professionally because I learned over the years the do's and the don'ts. I still use Hardie backer and wonderboard, but I'm gearing towards Schluter Kerri Board, Laticrete Hydro Ban Board, Ditra, just to name a few.
Thank you brother for your videos keep up the good work.
Dude your trippin' on that spacer thing.
He is tripping
Exactly doesn't even make sense what he says about spacers
Dude’s trippin for sure. He seems like he’s in a manic episode
He’s absolutely correct about every single detail because it all matters. If he knew what he was doing he would had spacers.
@@adnanlimited most tile guys carry plenty of old spacers in their trucks/vans. Same with thinset and other materials. Also sometimes you’ll bring materials day to day based on your setting goal. Just bc he’s light on material doesn’t mean anything. The fact he’s using those shitty spacers says more than anything about his experience
Ooh one of these types of videos. My favorite. Time to grab some popcorn and watch.
I am on this same job today. Done by a supposed contractor. It’s at 90% done, badly. So I am going to have to tear it all out and start over. Funniest part is I was at this house back in December doing some flooring and countertops. They hired the other guy instead of me because he was going to get it done faster than I said I could. Now it’s March and it’s still not done. I said I would be finished with both bathrooms by early February at the latest. I work alone so it does take me a little longer than if I had help. The other bathroom I can salvage I hope.
For customers they have three choices, get it done cheap, get it done fast, or get it done good, you can only pick good so it won't be cheap or fast 😉
thanks for being long winded. driving your point home, has saved me a lot of time and money. keep being you. thanks.
too much intro talk, just get to the points
Codfish Jones was thinking the same thing
.
And stop waving your hand in front of the camera.
Yup. I was yelling at my tv lol. Get on with it!
Another mad tile guy cause he didnt get the job at first
As a contractor, I hate finishing a job someone else started. So much more expensive when you have to fix other people's mistakes, or fix the fail after the other guy gets paid and never shows up again.
i love it i make a killing at it and laugh all the way to the bank
Is that you Mike Holmes?? ha ha!
You are on point for so many things. But I'm learning NOT to re-use spacers. They get mortar on them, you have to wash them, dry them, store them. At 4 bucks a bag (average) it's just not worth it to maintain/inventory all those different spacers.
It is entertaining to me how so many are focused on the new spacers this guy bought when it was only one of a dozen different things that I talked about. But I guess more to the point and I should have specified on the video, those spacers had no place to be there since with a large format tile he should have bought leveling clips...and in fact the box of used spacers that I carry around haven't been used in years. Large format tiles basically made spacers irrelevant.
THANK YOU for this video. Amazing that people do such shoddy work.
When homeowners think they’re saving money by letting their neighbors cousin’s wife’s brother do their shower!
😂😂😂😂😂 'touche
🤣🤣🤣
I worked for a contractor who would have us lay only 1 coat of AquaDefense because “it is expensive.” I worked for a different contractor who had the contract for the county’s Housing Authority. They decided to have the showers in 14 duplexes, 28 showers, upgraded to tile. He purposely used unmodified masonry to tile a few of the showers because he knew that they would eventually fail and they would have to pay him to fix them.
Did you report him to the county attorney? Taxpayer money down the drain.
In ny, on slabs we put one layer of pressure treated down first and then the other two pieces are regular. Like when framing a basement, pt as bottom plate. But yeah makes no sense for upstairs at sll
Thanks for sharring ure expienience with us newbs boss.
I love to learn how to do things and really appreciate people like you who take the time and effort to explain things. That said, if you use stationary a tripod for your camera your videos would improve greatly and be less dizzying to watch. Also, as some have suggested a little less chatting and more of just getting to the point. The intro can be cut to a few seconds. A good ten minutes or more could be cut from this video and it would still be great.
Unfortunately, I get about 40 to 50 thousand views daily across my channel. I cannot possibly know people's knowledge or lack thereof. So I go into more detail than probably is necessary.
All homeowners need to watch this video. Then they wouldn’t be asking “why the shower is so expensive to build?”
I'm doing my 3rd bathroom while wall tile and everything. My first tiled floor pan an curb. It's easier with a pre fab floor pan but I'm taking all this advice to heart with the knowledge I have now. Thanks buddy. I won't do what you said not to do lol.
Great video, learned a lot!!
2:53 thank me later
Thank you....
Sheet rock guy had no business messing with the shower area.
//...ITS GREAT TO SEE A PROPER TRADESMEN THATS KNOWS HIS TRADE....IM A LICENSED TRADESMENS IN ANOTHER TRADE...BUT I CAN SEE WHAT A MESS THIS JOB IS.... I HAD AN UNCLE THAT WAS A STONE MASON AND BUILDER....AND HE HAD A WAITING LIST OF CUSTOMERS FOR HIS WORK .....BECAUSE HE DID THE JOB PROPERLY !!
Im new to ur page I'm watching your video and I saw that the concrete Durock had already been put on before the liner for the poured concrete base I was getting really worried that I'd been doing it wrong I 100% agree with you on the steps that you take to do it right
Whole point of spacers is a uniform measurement throughout, I stick loyal with my dude Tavy. Maybe it’s cause I use a lot of 1/16 and 3/32 line almost exclusively, I feel they make a good tile job pop even more. If you come to with the site with spin doctors for tile that’s not at least 3-4 square feet and warped to shit, I already know you can’t level and plumb your mud to within a grain of sand’s accuracy! 😂
Lmao..."what happened was, ugh, i dont know what happened." 🤣
Wowww!!! You are saving so many future from future disasters; please keep on doing what you're doing!! I truly learn as much or MORE in videos of 'work done wrong' than in the usual 'how to install' videos... Thank you!!
Red gaurd recommends mesh tape for wall to floor transitions
What is tape used for....
It's a crack preventer same as on your drywall...
What does it say on a label of redgard, it is a crack preventer...
If you want to use tape I have no issues with it, but if you're already using a crack preventer then why would you use tape as a crack preventer, it's illogical
I finished a job that looked like this when I got there. I removed the lower piece of wallboard, before starting. I’d love to see you show the process in full, instead of drawing assumptions before the tile installer even mixed a bag of mud. Looks like the prep was not done...yet, by the installer.
Except this guy wasn't mixing anything...He was using a pre-mixed tile adhesive which is completely different from mortar. Why would you buy mortar and tile adhesive? Because you don't know what you are doing...
@@shittyopinions Plot twist: This isn't a shower. It's the strangest kitchen and backsplash you've ever seen.
@@shittyopinions Never heard of Acrylpro, but data sheet is saying it's made specifically for tub surround and shower walls. So seems like his plan was the bag of thinset for floor tile and Acrylpro for wall tile. This doesn't sound like a crazy plan yet, maybe not what I'd choose but not like he picked out joint compound or anything. It does say not to use over non-porous surfaces, so curious what the Acrylpro + RedGard plan was going to be...
@@stevefifield1207 It is an inferior product to mortar.
@@shittyopinions Yeah, I've never used it but I personally wouldn't choose it for a shower - even if just talking walls. Point was the item wasn't a crazy choice itself; if he's Redgarding the walls fully (probable based on glimpsing supplies) and then using the adhesive directly on top it's going to be problematic... but those are all guesses.
I have heard of punching out someone's work before they were finished but not before they started???
Wow 😮what a meticulous detail oriented wise experienced man
Thank you. Have actually watched someone use mastic in a shower install and told him that I t was my first time watching someone use mastic in a shower always seen motor mix myself because of the dampness. You have just confirmed my suspicion. Thank you
I'm not a professional builder but after watching your videos I feel that I am actually quite good
Maybe its cuz I'm a few beers in on a Friday, but the handheld POV is dizzying. Please get a tripod! I watched till the end. You can definitely talk into the camera.
No, you're not negative.
Showing the pitfalls and mistakes are excellent. I once heard a tile guy say the tile covers mistakes. He was immediately off my big job. The guy I had do it, some 28 years ago said the substrate must be solid and he will not lay a tile on plywood as one guy said it would save money. I have done several smaller tile projects myself. I have done shower pans, bath floors. Everything begins with the rough in work being solid and centered.
I was hired help on a roof job last year. (I'm retired, small jobs are okay)The guy I worked with cut corners and said it won't matter. It's in a senior development and he said she will be gone before they notice. He justified a crap build by saying that's what the customer wanted. I said no to a tub install when the owner wanted a lot of cut corners to save money. I believe the owner in this video wanted cheap, so they got cheap.
I found you and I’m 💯 agreed with you in all what you talk about about bathrooms perfect
This brings back memories to an old job I was going to do for a so called friend. He wanted me to do tile work for his company. First day on the job I arrive to the shower thinking that i was going to be doing all the work to it.. but he had his drywall guys do all the backer board and 2 niche areas for the shower because they were cheaper and faster... they used nothing but drywall mud and mesh tape to cover the seams and corners.. including the niche areas. They literally got done mudding the walls when i arrived(mud still very much wet) and my so called friend said it was ready to go for tile work and that i can start right away. I was baffled by what his workers did to the shower. Told him that there was no way in hell that i was going to shower that bathroom. Of course he was pissed cause he didnt see anything wrong with it. I spent the next hr explaining why thats not right and that all that work is going to have to get torn down and redone the right way.. I decided to take a walk around the house to see what else was done wrong to it.. I noticed some very sketchy work with plumbing and electrical that was being done to it. I ended up going to the town and bringing it up and the town took care of it. That so called friend and I never spoke afterwards. The sad part is that i have a few friends that are still Friends with him and he still works in construction and is still doing shitty work on people's houses.. I hope his company gets shut down some day.
1st Off, lets stop with the blame game, I mean really? The obvious problem here is not so much the tile guy but the home owners acting as a general contractor and hiring several contractors to do different things when it was obvious that the homeowners were in over their head. 1 if the plumbing was wrong, that's the plumbers issue and the home owner should have had them fix it. 2 the dry wall guy hung the backer board so he could do his drywall, not his job and if I was the tile guy, I'd be pissed because it all has to come off. 3 as the the tile guy, I don't work for free, so I'm not taking off the backer board, I'm not fixing the plumbing and I hardly doubt that the homeowner was willing to pay the tile guy to redo what the plumber and drywall guy did. Bottom line, hire the a contractor that will complete the entire job and saver yourself the headache of having things done out of order costing you more money to fix. As far as what the tile guy was really up to, you make a lot assumptions and a lot finger pointing. There was some items that are not so great to use like the pressure treated lumber and the premix thin set but the rest was just you complaining.
You are absolutely correct, almost without exception when a homeowner becomes a GC things go south...
As to me complaining too much, that's what I do, ppl need to hear it all so they don't get caught up. You would be amazed how many "shirt and ties" have no clue about anything.
I see this often, homeowner assumes the role of contractor and subs out all the work. But had no clue how all of this work should come together, then like u said the blame game starts, and good trades get a bad rep
C&LAuto Snider just imagine your a regular homeowner, that doesn’t even know what to look at to find bad work. Then the job is complete and the least you’d be doing is kicking your teeth in, prob go physco crazy knowing it has to be all ripped out
The squeak on the subfloor isn’t wood rubbing on wood, it’s wood rubbing on nails from the deflection. If tile wasn’t being installed you could throw in a few screws to get rid of the squeak. Just FYI…
Using that Laticrete fabric is good to use with Red gaurd in all the change of plains
I think we need to get away from the idea that a drain has to be in the Middle. That is the spot a person would be standing, so move it to the side/up- down, left-right.
I agree with that, long side drain ftw, but the handle and shower head not being centered! That should be corrected.
@@whattheschmidt Why must it be centered? What rule is that? Homeowner is the one to decide where the valve goes. There is no rule.
@John Peters For aesthetics - they should either be way off on purpose (side / far wall for instance) or lined up, not slightly off, that looks like an install mistake.
The "mesh tape" as you call it, it great for tile (if using a schluter or wedi board). Actual mesh tape (3" or 6" with little holes) is what you should use on fire places or with wonderboard (aka crap board). Redguard is a great product if applies properly, 3 coats and allowing a day to two days between coats for drying.
Great video a lot of great knowledge.
Mastic is also organic and a breeding ground for mold if the grout fails..it should only be used in backsplashes where water exposure is minimal.
thanks for the honesty
I feel for the customer here. What I am actually hearing you say is this is going to add $$$, oh my God this will cost even more now & oh my goodness the terrible prep means I have to charge even more.
Ou de like you’re the best tile guy in America. Just ask you, you will tell us....
Man, I love watching your videos! Wish I could hire you to come build my shower and teach me along the way. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
I appreciate your directness in your videos!
You are one of the exceptions 😂
Great information. I felt a little seasick with all that camera motion, so slow it down a bit please. Skip the justification summary in the beginning. It was almost 3 minutes in before we get to see what we came to see. Glad someone is doing quality work.
I’ve had this before. Unfortunately some people don’t understand that undoing bad work is an extra cost on top of even doing the job properly. Sometimes you are better off walking away.
Tile adhesive is mastic. Acrylpro is mastic. He was going to use that on the wall. The fabric tape is great. It increases the thickness of the waterproofing, it joins the boards together and it reenforces the corners making it crack proof. It seems to me he was going to glue the pan liner up the walls lol He was going to fuck up this job big time. Lol
Or, he was going to remove the lower sheets of durock. The drywaller installed that, I believe he said.
Outstanding video.