If you've not used Ditra or an uncoupling membrane before don't try and lay tiles the same day. Use Rapid Set adhesive to fix the ditra to the floor and always leave it overnight. Tat way if you have to lift a tile you won't pull the mat up with it :)
@@ks13077 I do this for a living and I see stupid new products all the time, but uncoupling is certainly necessary for tiling over wooden floors and underfloor heated screeds. It’s super easy to lay, so it is heard to make a mistake.
@@vapeurdepisse all depends on the situation. You can’t screw hardi over an under floor heated screed or screw into a floor of unknown depths with screws. Ditra goes on without penetration of the floor. Both work well, just depends on what it has to do.
Matt have you never seen Holmes on Homes? From the late nineties in Canada Practically every show they are rebuilding a bathroom or kitchen & using Shulter products to lay tile!
16years ago I put this product down along with a floor heating electric system in my house built in 1936. My tile has not cracked, moved and none of the grout has cracked. It stiffened the subfloor greatly but also allows the structure to move without damage to the floorI love Schluter my brother is a kitchen and bath designer and that'll those guys use for decades. Great product super easy to work with and super light THAT WORKS!!!
@@thebobloblawshow8832 I dont agree. Our stick home was built in 1999 and the bathroom grout is cracked or there are gaps between grout and the tile edge, decoupling membrane wasnt used over plywood subfloor. Now, it doesnt matter much to us because we dont care or observe too closely, but for sticklers and perfectionists they would want a reno
@@LincolnLog well agree or not the proof is in the pudding. Never had an issue. Let me put it to you this way: what did people do before Schluter? Waste of money.
My mom mentioned this to me yesterday, I had no idea what she was talking about. RUclips recommends this 1 year old video... They are always listening.
Don't let people tell you that you're crazy! You're not crazy for noticing it. They are crazy for NOT noticing and just want to protect their fragile ego. Tech in the wrong hands = bad, bad, bad.
I used to help my uncle lay mosaic tiling when I was in college. That was around 8-9 years ago. It’s to my understanding it’s code to use a product similar to float the floor. He used this product and I’m sure to this day still does. It’s brought back so many memories of painstaking hours of laying tile. It’s unbelievable how hard that work is and I have a great level of respect for the laborers that work with tile. My uncle is an artist and to watch him break pieces of tile and pick and choose what shapes to build a piece is amazing. Then to tie it into a floor is on another level. I’m glad I learned what I could with him. Thanks RUclips for putting this in my recommendations. Great product and with my experience with it I give it a thumbs up.
I mean, I’d have to see the work before I go as far as calling anyone a skilled anything lol. If you’ve been in construction you know it’s a hit or miss with the contractors.
I have specified this product for many years and it has never failed. I first used it 20 years ago in two office block foyers where the contractor had laid tiles direct on the concrete floor that had subsequently cracked along joint lines in the substrate below. The installation allowed the contractor to retile the floor as originally specified that was now fully reliable and without having to rebuild the foyer floors to cure inherent problems. I have since spec'd this below all wet tile areas and in location where the substrate was variable, irrespective of where a finishing screed was laid on top. I have had no reported tile failures of any sort.
I’m a plumber in Dallas and I would love to do work for this man. He is all about the highest quality. I would love a chance to work for a residential contractor that has those standards. Most contractors have no interest in quality. They only want cheap. That’s why I quit the residential world and went the mechanical/industrial route where quality is still valued. He does amazing work.
I can appreciate the sentiment. I think that when the quality is high people can just go on with their lifes and create new things that give new value, but if the quality is low then there's this whole spiral of time wasting: - the customer notices the problem and has to call the person that has done it - Not always, but sometimes they will waste time arguing, because the company tries to avoid repairing it - Someone needs to come and repair it - Often someone on the side of the customer needs to spend time and "watch" the person repairing it (I think that 99% of people that would come to do the repair are decent and wouldn't steal anything even if they had a chance, but there's always this 1% that is less decent and also there's always this anxiety when You need to let a stranger into your house) All this is time wasted, and also there are other situations -> maybe the thing doesn't break, but is just slightly (but visibly) out of sync and then people are annoyed at that. More quality -> more time and energy to enjoy life and hopefully create more awesome things
I have used this many times, very good for large tiled areas where you want to avoid expansion joints. Never had any tile or grout line crack after using this even when pushing the area with continuous tile well past what would normally result in expansion cracks. Over underfloor heating this stuff is pretty much essential and works very well, I tiled a 150 square metre heated floor over 10 years ago with it and not a single crack in tile or grout in all that time.
@@private8559 Yes they do but in my experience using decoupling membrane this can be pushed well beyond the recommendations, that was my point. This is especially true for tiling over underfloor heating. The recommendations are very conservative.
@@private8559 For the most part pushing the boundaries comes from clients who are prepared to take the risk to avoid expansion joints. I have read the Schluter documentation together with Vario and Durabase which I also use. Its usually down to the type of tile being used and the type of floor how far I would be prepared to push it.
@@christiann4635 Depends on the situation really, heated floors really always require flexible adhesive often the really flexible stuff which is expensive but cheaper than having to redo it when there are problems. Decoupling membranes really work best with the polymerised flexible adhesives anyway. I have found the fibre reinforced adhesives to be very good too where there is going to be excessive expansion.
You mentioned goin over the heated mats with ditra ...What do you recommend using along side of the heated mats to make up the same height ? ( I plan on only doing 50% heat mat coverage on concrete slab)
As part-time handyman and I have done a couple showers for others now using Schulter and was very happy with it. Now doing a whole master washroom reno for my wife and feeling confident using this product to tile over the wood floor. Cheers
Used this product in upstairs master bathroom and was very pleased. One benefit Matt does not point out is sound dampening. Significantly lessens sound of footfalls on tile in downstair rooms.
I installed this because of the uncoupling. What I didn't expect was HOW MUCH BETTER my room felt after the install. I had zero insulation under my old faux hardwood floors. The ditra system made it so I can walk around barefoot in the winter in my own home again
How did it feel better? From what I understand it's meant to make tile instalation better and last longer. So why would it make your room feel better if your not even walking on it
Hay Matt, Excellent Video. When I was in Italy the house I was billeted in was an amazing structure hundreds of years old. This entire structure was masonry, with floors that had not cracked since originally built. What I witnessed amazed me and I couldn’t believe how simple and affective this method was. The tile floors where laid on sand. Like you said, uncoupled, when the building moves the floors just kind of vibrates sliding around. Crazy. Hope you have a Great New Year.
The same reason you lay a foot or two of sand before pouring a concrete slab for a garage, or putting a down a sand pad for an above ground pool. It's effective.
Don't do that. This product is complete garbage Use MAPEI green mat way better than this junk. Your tiles will.pop out very soon. The only way to know the truth is if you demolish bathrooms and have tested both products This orange garbage fails all the time Shluter is a crappy company I will never use them in my life never They fail all the time. Try to pull tiles over green Mapei mat and see how it will go . You cannot remove them Over this pink garbage they pop out like nithing. Demolisued 3 bathrooms in one day Tried to demolish a bathroom with Mapei and could not go quarter in one day and need power tools Dont use this orange bs your tiles will crumble in a few years.
I'm in Arlington, TX ...I invested in an uncoupling membrane for my kitchen and bathroom tile install, 5 years ago. Best investment..my foundation has settled and repair has been done recently and no cracked tiles in the kitchen or bathroom. The installer definitely needs to install it correctly and use the correct mortar for the installation.
@@QueOndaWhey OH NO! Gosh do you have foundation issues? It sucks when stuff is moving and cracking around you lol. If that's not it, I know my best friend had cracked tiles because of bad installation..not enough mortar used when they were installed.
I installed this when I remodeled our master bath, complete custom shower, tub area, and flooring. About 500sq total tiling, including shower. It was an easy install and I really liked the fact that I can waterproof areas easily. My original tile floor was about 1" thick and now it is about 1/2" thick, so now I have door jams that have gaps, not sure what do about that. I would recommend this product to anyone think is building or remodeling a home. Also, building the shower curb was a breeze and looks amazing. They have products that make the install look clean and professional. I was able to get all my products from Lowes and they had everything in stock.
For the bottoms of your door jambs, I recommend plinth blocks. They have them in stock at the big box stores. They're square and make the room look much more expensive. Just mark around the block with a pencil and cut away the casing and baseboard with an oscillating multitool. For the baseboard gaps, I recommend 'stop molding.' It's the molding on the door frame, that stops the door from going any further when you close it.
Did my master bath, with walk in shower (no curb) 7 years ago. With ditra, and kirdi awesome products. Their shower kits and drain assemblies are very well designed, be available here in Ontario Canada for over a decade, Mike Holmes has featured it on almost every build since it came available in north America
Also they are the products that will have hidden mold and rot and will never show These products are the worst products i have ever seen. My experience I had to renovate 4 bathrooms in one house and rip apart this company products On the surface everything was good under neat complete garbage Watch horror stories here on youtube All from this company products I am using MAPEI way better and professional This company y has good ideas but their products rot very easily.
I used the Kerdi shower system with the square drain and fleece to build my shower system 8 years ago and its working perfect. I hired out the tile work and the guy loved working around the square drain instead of the round ones most people us. If I did it again I would for sure add heat to the shower floor and the bathroom floor. Its a great system.
Hi Matt, I completely agree with you about the Schluter products. I used them on my concrete floor on grade about 10 years ago and I love it. I think at the time I felt that I was taking a chance after our whole downstairs flooded from a toilet overflow after a massive rainstorm. Less than a year, after install we had another massive overflow of the toilet. I cried and we had to empty the down stairs again, but because I had all the walls to floor waterproofed along the bottom edges with Kerdi, I did not have ANY need to repair dry wall. Boy was I happy!!! With the Ditra between the cement and the tile, I have not had any separation of Tile from the floor. And so as a result I am totally convinced, just as you are that Schluter products work. I did a lot of research before doing this and was pretty convinced ahead of time. I have NOT changed my mind, I spent extra money for it but never regretted the decision. Thank You Schluter!!!!!
You should look into Japanese showers, these are found on middle class homes all over the country. It's how I plan on building a master bath in my forever home.
Since I am deaf enough to need captioning, I watched once for action in background, once more to read. For a bad builder job master shower replacement, I gutted walls to metal studs over concrete slab (South Fl), replaced, added and reinforced studs, and did .5" cement board, doubled on longest wall. Properly notched grey pudding type waterproofing over all. Walls, floating bench (not the block type shown here), arched niche, upper corner shelf bowl draining cement pan to direct drain. I used several Schluter products....corner membrane, faucet water proofing pieces, drain top. But I am still with cement board. Properly done, cement board just makes me feel like it will BE there for awhile. If you want it done right, DIY. Or micromanage a select subcontractor. 😉 122 lb lady DIY'er
I live in Sweden and I am a carpenter and concrete does not crack if you do it right. If it cracks the problem is - to little rebar in the foundation - concrete dries to fast when it is "burning" - bad ground work under the foundations. happy building!
Where he is in Texas most homes have tensioned concrete foundations that flex throughout the seasons on the first floor. It may go 3 months no rain on a clay ground, so the soil shrinks a lot. Hes talking about what he has to deal with
Nice job! Very informative. My husband suggested I view this since he is interested in using ICF for our new house construction. I liked the way you; broke down terms and made everything easy to understand. Your Pros and Cons were very helpful, since I too, had concerns about some of the issues you elaborated on.
as a builder/remodeler this system seems to be wonderful. I will install it in my own soon to be spa room on the third floor of my house and keep u posted as to the developments with this product/s.
I learned about rhis recently, and we used it on a bathroom remodel we did. I will say that it is awesome. Very easy to install and covers all your bases. I would definitely use it again.
I have used this product a few years ago out of interest, but now see how it can really be applied. Thank you for the video I now know what else I need to look out for.
I've used This product and absolutely Love it. Works great, as long as you do it as they have instructed. Do not try to cut corners with this product. Love it
Hi There. QUESTION ? I am doing a small tiling job. only x 2 square meters bathroom floor. I want to know ? Is there any multi purpose adhesive which I could use for both - sticking on waterproof decoupling membrane onto a concrete subfloor and also using the same adhesive for sticking tiles on top of it ?
I tiled two bathrooms on the second floor of my house 7 years ago. The subfloor is a chipboard. I used ditra in one of the bathrooms. In the other I used bakerboard and redgard on the top. Both floors look fine as of today. Tile and grout are in perfect condition. If I had to do it again, I would go with bakeroard and redgard. Easier to apply. I don't even understand from their ad why anybody would use ditra over a concrete floor. Two coats of redgard and flexibond is a way to go. I tiled 300 sq ft over very unstable concrete on the first floor in my house. ( It contracts and expands year around and the old tile was all cracked as a result. ) I isolated cracks with a membrane, put two coats of redgard and used flexibond. No problems so far. Ditra is a good product, don't get me wrong, but it is expensive and PITA to apply. Try to fill all the waffles with a thinset!
Architect here - the idea of ditra over a concrete floor is to isolate the tile work from the concrete slab. If the slab cracks, the crack will not impact the tile work...
@Anatoly Eydelzon your specific application has redguard and isolation membrane as an ideal and affordable solution due to it already having all the cracks for you to isolate. However in new construction, you have whatever lines the architect tells the concrete guys to cut in the slab. They are often times not very accurate lines as to where the cracks will actually form. Using a floor wide membrane eliminates those cracks from coming through the tile.
Spectacular demonstration for an awesome and innovative product line. "Uncouple" is an appropriate verb for separating railroad cars, but the better engineering term would be "decouple."
Love Mike Holmes he's one of the best and I wish more contractors took pride in their work and cared about their customers doing the job correctly the first time around.
Thank you for sharing this insightful video! The tips on maximizing return on investment by utilizing existing foundation space or expanding it strategically are extremely valuable for homeowners. Your expertise and clear explanations make complex concepts easy to understand. Keep up the great work!
Hahahah me too! While watching I just kept thinking 'He's never going to get good adhesion to the back of that shluter' lol. That's what happens when you spread thinset over particle board. The particle board soaks up all the water from the thinset and the materials don't bond. Total crapola install! LOL
I also got a kick at 6:45 when the guy was struggling to get mud out of the bucket using his notch trowel. Could he not afford a pail scoop or any number of trowels/knives that could get help him get that mud out faster? That was almost painful to watch! Lol
That's heat cables. Somewhat different product. It looks more like lego studs with cable in between. Or it could be water pipes in the slab. Tile is as cold as my soul otherwise.
Tile is always going to be cold unless you are piping hot water or electric heating pads under it. Great for hot weather though! Carpet nice soft and warm but not durable, and pain the keep clean.
I installed about 250k ft of tile over my career and I was very reluctant to start using these uncoupling mats. I've had very few issues with bond failure on my tile jobs,I have done repairs where the tile has come loose on the top half of the ditra mat. I have used uncoupling mats with the fleece on both sides,that's what I use now.
This is fantastic. Here in the UK people have little or no confidence in builders because they do everything as cheap as possible only to cause home owners additional costs to rectify shoddy workmanship. Just listening to you, give me confidence in this product (even though I am useless at DIY) to have it installed in my next home. Thank you
Matt, I am actually doing my own shower remodel as well as the entire master bathroom. I'll be using Schluter's Kerdi system at least for the shower, which I'll be making a custom floor pan with Kerdi's drain as well. From what I've researched it is going to be a great option for our remodel. I'll try to get some photos and maybe a video of the remodel as we progress if your interested. Great product in my opinion. Your videos have definitely made me think more about the products I use in my DIY projects as well as what I'll be using should we decide to build our next home.
That product is simply an Anti Fracture Membrane, its very pricey product, sure its a great product if you want to spend big bucks, or you can use a simple Anti Fracture membrane that people have been using for years, and its cost is a fraction. Great video.
In Sweden we have a thinner membrane with taped corners. All glued with a 2component glue. The level is fixed before so all surface angles down to the drain with a steel mesh net in it, so that ”cake” won’t crack if the foundation moves.
I’ve been using Schluter Kerdi and Ditra products… sheets, board, shower pans… making benches, curbs, tub pedestals, etc., for the past 7 or 8 years. It’s versatile, fast… excellent!
ive been in tile for 16 years and schluter is by far and away the most inventive companies i've ever used products from. it has saved me time, headache, and sheer pain. to go from 80lb sheets of concrete board to a roll that can do a whole floor that weighs like ... nothing? it's stupid strong, flexes with movement, is virtually mold immune, can be waterproofed completely.. i mean it's stupid not to use honestly. i do not work for schluter, I am just a tile guy who loves good products.
I'll second that, i've been using it when it was corrugated, not squares, fitted 100's and 100's of meters of it. All Schluter products are brilliant especially the wetroom drains, no one builds an easier to fit or stronger system :)
Greetings from Guayaquil, Ecuador. Your videos are of great quality, congratulations. The importance of your dialogues requires that they be translated and put as subtitles. Please try to do so as soon as possible in Spanish, the construction-loving community will thank you.
Thank you for this (from Ontario, Canada). I’m retired & have worked on a number of tile projects over the past few years. I was looking for a system to reduce the thickness of tile install over plywood subfloor & still get good results without using concrete boards. Really enjoy your videos.
Man thank you and thank you RUclips algorithms! I need to replace linoleum in my basement from a massive water leak. It is on concrete and was concerned about cracks. Will definitely check this out.
Very impressive and informative. Just bought a house with most of the bathroom custom tiled. I hope the person(s) used this in their install. Only time will tell as myself and the Mrs. use the bathroom. I'm now a sub!
Seeing a lot of these 'membrane' applications around YT these days. Good! I've been using rubber membranes between my dry wall/plasterboard since the 90's. I always fit highest quality double glazed windows too. #1 complaint of most private tenants is sound/air pollution. Always found it totally mind blowing that 99% of landlords don't think this matters. Guess they enjoy turning over tenants every 6 months! I think I've saved myself thousands of hours wasted on admin/checks over the years. A well maintained property = happy long term tenants. No brainer!
I can't believe that some places still allow builders to install single glazed windows for living spaces, the quality of life benefits from the thermal/sound blocking is so big that it should be in every building code. Not to mention poor ventilation is so common if left up to the tenant so you don't want condensation to wreck the sills with mould.
What rubber membranes do you use? Researching sound deadening and there's lots of opinions. Most recommend 2 layers of 5/8 as the most cost effective method. Thanks
Been using Ditra for years, including Ditra Heat, love it! Have also done a few showers using Kerdi and Kerdi Board, wouldn't do it any other way. Great system!
Thats all we use. Most tradesmen don't do the training to understand the system. I use kerdi for al my repair jobs of the other so called superior systems, the more things change the more they stay the same- doing things the same old dumb ways and most guys don't even do it right the old way
I don’t know if you have more online videos like this but you are the best teacher I have ever been able to actually watch online and learn better than I can when I’m on the site because I get yelled and bitched at. You’re calm you are very well spoken and you show an example As you were explaining yourself somebody is doing the background work at the same time. Brilliant. Please continue as this is something that I would definitely describe four or even sign up for for course. Learned on the job well, I can imagine you only understand better than I do these people we work for I just bitch and moan and call you names but don’t teach you. Thank you for doing this. God bless I hope your family is safe healthy and well.
Awesome stuff, but after taking out a multitude of 1950's bathrooms that were almost completely tiled with some funky colors I might add, they were built some tough !! Found only one with some minor water damage but not bad after 50-60yrs !! Hopefully this holds up as well, as I think it will.
@@entropyfan5714 tell me about it just tore out a bath with .25 inch drywall then steel mesh with 2.5-3 inch concrete then tile I used a diamond wheel cutter to cut in between the studs and pryed it off in chunks, worst demo ever lol especially aroumd the plumbing and electrical!!
@@megenberg8 yeah for sure same principles apply now to installs of tile and stone and they also knew it when they made the parthenon just the material technology is different now but same principles!!
I'm a 70 year old with a bad back & knees & have no plans to get down on my knees. I wouldn't be able to get back up. 😂 Plus I'm not building anything either.
@Mike B... I'm a 70 year old, retired kitchen & bath remodeler, with arthritis & two artificial knees, but, there is one job left in me and that's my own master bath tile floor job, so glad I stumbled on to this channel, I didn't know about this stuff, no more Durarock... Wahoo!... Oh yeah, I'm going to have to get somebody to help me get off my knees ;-》
I see the resistance of "Experinced installers" like those posting here - watched that happen for years at Lowe's same with epoxy grout - installers hated it because they had to go slower and couldn't slap it up and run out the door - Schlutter, Epoxy grout and a number other newer products take a little more time, more skill and yes more cost to customer - in the long run the customer wins and the installer saves time on call backs and fighting with customers over failed installs. BUT you have to do it right or it won't work - that means CHANGING your work habits.
I used this to fix a crumbling tile landing that had been affixed directly to hardwood with mortar in the 60s or so. Its amazing. Only thing is people need to pick the right adhesion product. Certain mastic/mortar are specifically stated to not be used with these. Super easy to use. 10/10 would recommend
I was surprised you didn’t make this video earlier. I have been using this product for years and the time saving will pay for the extra cost. You should also use the Kerdi product as well
A few years ago, I have installed this Schulter Ditra underlayment plastic and have marble over at the second floor bathrooms. Now, every time my husband is in the master bathroom I know because I heard squeaking noise from Schulter Ditra and I regret I don't choose hardboard underlayment.
Wrong! Custom home builder here who also does high-end renovations. Squeaking comes from movement between two stiffer elements. 90% of the squeaks I have found in homes are nails moving up and down and deflecting wood. Sometimes it's wood on wood similar to two branches when the wind moves the trees. That synthetic membrane does not squeak. I've tried numerous times and never get any sound out of it. It's the subfloor below the ditra mat. There's a nail in the plywood subfloor below the mat. When the floor deflects the plywood moves and makes the nail squeak. I have been called to many other contractors customers with squeaky issues. And I always find the squeak. It could be a royal PITA, but I find it in 90% it's wood moving and the nail is not. Every now and then it's two pieces of wood.
Here’s what I don’t understand about adding Kerdi-band to a seam over Ditra. There’s pockets with raised walls and recesses. Knowing that Thinset isn’t waterproof (I know, I tested it), and that’s what you’re using to apply the Kerdi-band…how does it help with those channels of the Ditra possibly allowing water to seep within those channels (even though they’re filled with non-waterproof thinset)?
You want thickness anyway , if you go from bathroom to badroom carpet , after they lay pad+carpet , when you use cement board it will pretty much bring tile level with ur carpet , and youll get nice transition. Between tile and carpet or 3/4 hardwood floors
this stuff is awesome- i'm an owner/builder and i've done two bathrooms, a laundry room, a couple of kitchens and a deck with this stuff and most are past the ten year mark and all have experienced zero issues.
@@richardraad2816 it's a slate deck over a garage. 2 layers of ply, ditra, kerdiband on all edges and seams, and then flashing above that and then slate on top of that. The deck is super rigid, 2x12 (16 foot span) every foot, and 4x 2x12 under part of the deck that something else is supported by. Note that schluter does not like people to do this, i dont think it's because it doesn't work, i think it's because they would rather I had used their more expensive products that they market for outdoor use.
We had that stuff put under our floors and in large areas, the grout started to crack and come out within a week or two. I'm sure it was installed wrong, but what a pain it was to get it corrected.
A builder should always have every possible method in his arsenal. This system was covered by Holmes on Homes some time ago however it is nice to be reminded of it. As a decoupler, it may also be good under wood floors which are glued to a slab (only after a water seepage test has been performed and passed) to keep the boards from separating over time if a crack develops.
Yep!.... I thought this product was GENIUS when I first saw it on Mike Holmes’ show! I l😍watching his very informative show....I learned so much valuable information! I have water damage on part of my floating wood and want to replace with tiles. So, this product will be PERFECT to use over my concrete slab- and I NEVER have to worry about title shifting with fluctuating temperatures. I’m so excited, I can see my plan coming together, perfectly!🎊 THANK YOU, for this informative video! P.S. I can buy a small quantity of needed supplies to use in an 33 square-foot area?
@Sergey Romanchenko We don't post tension anything not in multistory commercial settings. Here in Wisconsin, we don't pour on grade. We can't. We have a frost line. We dig below it and we do ground prep. thusly making a post tension slab a waste of money. What's it like to have slabs that crack on the inside of a building? I wouldn't know, because we don't. But you already knew all of that because you have common sense and knowledge, right Boris? Man, it doesn't matter where you put a Russian, that inferiority complex just shines like a bright ol' beacon doesn't it Natasha?
This was great demo, explanation, and I got to hear the concrete tip again because I watched another demo of this in 2022 and exact same. Difference with this video is the "Cannonball" into the bath tub part 🤣 Another classic line.
I used it on a 3/4” plywood bath floor that I was trying to maintain the elevation going into an existing floor outside that bathroom, so I didn’t have the room to add 1/2” cement board. After a couple years and no cracks in my tile. That’s all I need for proof that this works...
These are great products, first found out about them from Mike Holmes, he has been using these for years. If it's Holmes approved then it's good for me.
I’ve been a tile setter for 43 years and I can tell you in all honesty whenever You hard fasten you the subfloor you will have problems. Wood never stops being a tree swelling with moisture in the summer and shrinking in the winter this will cause joints to crack every single time.A floating mud bed is far less expensive than This product and much more reliable.
Jeff Nelson Builder of high end homes in Connecticut for 35 years, could not disagree more. If your using a plywood base and leave a saw blade kerf between sheets you will not have cracks.
We have bathroom with this product on a wooden floor, they used thin tiles on this product on the floor, lots of tiles are broken because this product bends down walking on it,but better for thick tiles
have given a thumbs up for this product and the video; Though have been tiling in the UK now for 36 yrs! ...Sadly I find that for many suburb jobs , the price is by far the primary factor! In short if you choose to price in an excellent product like this to the overall cost;, sadly someone else will get the job?.....Though from a thermal perspective this looks excellent! Would definitely include this within a job whereby the customer is not hunting for a cheaper option👍
I have specified Schluter systems many times over the last 10 years or so and it is my go to spec for any tiled areas irrespective of whether they are wet or not. In fact I was called to provide a rectification spec on two large office reception areas where the tiling had reflective cracking over concrete daywork joints. In both areas threats of consequential loss and disruption meant that the pressure was on to settle the issue once and for all. Schluter provided both the Ditra matting and the underfloor heating mat (check this out it is the best system I have seen) in the two areas.
Mapei is better This company is epic fail all the time. Will never use them in my life All their products are complete garbage You will find out when your cliets sew you in a few years and you cannot explain why all their oroducts failed. MAPEI is number one This company is a sham.
Please research Moxie concrete additive. Eliminates: Water permeability, structural instability from curing processes, expansion/contraction from freezing water, toxic “white dust” over time, and need for rebar (though local code will still mandate it!). I’m not a rep or anything but I’ve been on jobs that used Moxie treated concrete in the wet mix and am amazed it isn’t standard for all concrete worldwide.
60 years ago, Earnest Pisano, put tile on plywood. Real 3/4" plywood. years went by, and the only reason I started taking things apart, was because of a leak from the toilet. (The toilet did not last 60 years). I was STUNNED. 3/4" plywood was in near new condition, and perfectly fine. I glued the tile that fell back up. It worked better then anything I've ever seen, and it did not fight the water that hard.
As usual, very informative important (must have) information. Your videos should be considered for credit for continuous education units for contractors.
Do we get extra points if we know how to (correctly) pronounce Schluter Ditra... LOL This is a GREAT Video... Love it... great information... I have been afraid to use this, but now I will consider it. I "Flip" RVs (on my 25th one right now)... This is a great idea. Well worth the money, just for the insulation too. Noise reduction... and making it look so nice. Thank you for sharing this great video... you took the "scary" out of this technique.
Mike Holmes used to have a show on HGTV called "Make It Right" which is his slogan. He did a few shows building houses in New Orleans 9th ward where Brad Pitt had his organization. Years later most of those houses are falling apart because they didn't use materials suited for that environment. The lawsuits are working their way through the courts.
Mike homes he is salsman na talent fucking big mouth but shluter membrane realy good stuff but dont hire him to instale it his have no clue how to do it right
We gutted our bathroom and used yhis product on the floors, halfway up the walls, and in the shower area. Word to the wise....do NOT let your tile installer use their choice of mastic. You MUST use a recommended type of mastic or it will not dry properly. We loved uding this product!
@Matt Risinger, good deal. I'm also in Texas. Just north of Dallas, but about to move to the Houston area, and I know exactly what you mean about cement pads. So far, I haven't had any call backs for cracked tile, but, I have repaired many cracks. This stuff looks good.
If you've not used Ditra or an uncoupling membrane before don't try and lay tiles the same day. Use Rapid Set adhesive to fix the ditra to the floor and always leave it overnight. Tat way if you have to lift a tile you won't pull the mat up with it :)
@@ks13077 I do this for a living and I see stupid new products all the time, but uncoupling is certainly necessary for tiling over wooden floors and underfloor heated screeds. It’s super easy to lay, so it is heard to make a mistake.
But Hardie Backer had worked great for decades and it's screwed down into the floor, so it's even more secure.
@@vapeurdepisse all depends on the situation. You can’t screw hardi over an under floor heated screed or screw into a floor of unknown depths with screws. Ditra goes on without penetration of the floor. Both work well, just depends on what it has to do.
Matt have you never seen Holmes on Homes? From the late nineties in Canada
Practically every show they are rebuilding a bathroom or kitchen & using Shulter products to lay tile!
Great product... factory certified in Reno facility.
im a Registered Nurse, dont know how i got here but it was very INFORMATIVE
I work in HC as well. Have no clue how I got here but I know I want this under the tile in my new home!
I'm watching this from the space station, idk how I got here but I didn't know I needed this info until I got the info
16years ago I put this product down along with a floor heating electric system in my house built in 1936. My tile has not cracked, moved and none of the grout has cracked. It stiffened the subfloor greatly but also allows the structure to move without damage to the floorI love Schluter my brother is a kitchen and bath designer and that'll those guys use for decades. Great product super easy to work with and super light THAT WORKS!!!
❤
It would have turned out the same without it. On top of concrete is it’s only use.
@@thebobloblawshow8832 wrong,
@@thebobloblawshow8832 I dont agree. Our stick home was built in 1999 and the bathroom grout is cracked or there are gaps between grout and the tile edge, decoupling membrane wasnt used over plywood subfloor. Now, it doesnt matter much to us because we dont care or observe too closely, but for sticklers and perfectionists they would want a reno
@@LincolnLog well agree or not the proof is in the pudding. Never had an issue. Let me put it to you this way: what did people do before Schluter? Waste of money.
My mom mentioned this to me yesterday, I had no idea what she was talking about. RUclips recommends this 1 year old video... They are always listening.
No shit. scary.
A sure sign Google Ads is picking up key words in your conversations !
Just called my tile guy yesterday, video recommended this morning.
I know how you feel. I've just recently wanted to do something with tiles and these vids pop up.
Don't let people tell you that you're crazy! You're not crazy for noticing it. They are crazy for NOT noticing and just want to protect their fragile ego. Tech in the wrong hands = bad, bad, bad.
I used to help my uncle lay mosaic tiling when I was in college. That was around 8-9 years ago. It’s to my understanding it’s code to use a product similar to float the floor. He used this product and I’m sure to this day still does. It’s brought back so many memories of painstaking hours of laying tile. It’s unbelievable how hard that work is and I have a great level of respect for the laborers that work with tile. My uncle is an artist and to watch him break pieces of tile and pick and choose what shapes to build a piece is amazing. Then to tie it into a floor is on another level. I’m glad I learned what I could with him. Thanks RUclips for putting this in my recommendations. Great product and with my experience with it I give it a thumbs up.
Well if you have great respect for them then stop calling them labourer they are skilled craftsmen
I mean, I’d have to see the work before I go as far as calling anyone a skilled anything lol. If you’ve been in construction you know it’s a hit or miss with the contractors.
I have specified this product for many years and it has never failed. I first used it 20 years ago in two office block foyers where the contractor had laid tiles direct on the concrete floor that had subsequently cracked along joint lines in the substrate below. The installation allowed the contractor to retile the floor as originally specified that was now fully reliable and without having to rebuild the foyer floors to cure inherent problems. I have since spec'd this below all wet tile areas and in location where the substrate was variable, irrespective of where a finishing screed was laid on top. I have had no reported tile failures of any sort.
I’m a plumber in Dallas and I would love to do work for this man. He is all about the highest quality. I would love a chance to work for a residential contractor that has those standards. Most contractors have no interest in quality. They only want cheap. That’s why I quit the residential world and went the mechanical/industrial route where quality is still valued. He does amazing work.
I can appreciate the sentiment. I think that when the quality is high people can just go on with their lifes and create new things that give new value, but if the quality is low then there's this whole spiral of time wasting:
- the customer notices the problem and has to call the person that has done it
- Not always, but sometimes they will waste time arguing, because the company tries to avoid repairing it
- Someone needs to come and repair it
- Often someone on the side of the customer needs to spend time and "watch" the person repairing it
(I think that 99% of people that would come to do the repair are decent and wouldn't steal anything even if they had a chance, but there's always this 1% that is less decent and also there's always this anxiety when You need to let a stranger into your house)
All this is time wasted, and also there are other situations -> maybe the thing doesn't break, but is just slightly (but visibly) out of sync and then people are annoyed at that.
More quality -> more time and energy to enjoy life and hopefully create more awesome things
Do the contractors want cheap, or their customers?
@@apatwella most want cheap
Plumber? You don't even need a license in Texas. Totally worthless title.
I have used this many times, very good for large tiled areas where you want to avoid expansion joints. Never had any tile or grout line crack after using this even when pushing the area with continuous tile well past what would normally result in expansion cracks. Over underfloor heating this stuff is pretty much essential and works very well, I tiled a 150 square metre heated floor over 10 years ago with it and not a single crack in tile or grout in all that time.
@@private8559 Yes they do but in my experience using decoupling membrane this can be pushed well beyond the recommendations, that was my point. This is especially true for tiling over underfloor heating. The recommendations are very conservative.
@@private8559 For the most part pushing the boundaries comes from clients who are prepared to take the risk to avoid expansion joints. I have read the Schluter documentation together with Vario and Durabase which I also use. Its usually down to the type of tile being used and the type of floor how far I would be prepared to push it.
What type of thinnest did you use on top to lay the tile? Modified or unmodified?
@@christiann4635 Depends on the situation really, heated floors really always require flexible adhesive often the really flexible stuff which is expensive but cheaper than having to redo it when there are problems. Decoupling membranes really work best with the polymerised flexible adhesives anyway. I have found the fibre reinforced adhesives to be very good too where there is going to be excessive expansion.
You mentioned goin over the heated mats with ditra ...What do you recommend using along side of the heated mats to make up the same height ? ( I plan on only doing 50% heat mat coverage on concrete slab)
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video Schmitty.
As part-time handyman and I have done a couple showers for others now using Schulter and was very happy with it. Now doing a whole master washroom reno for my wife and feeling confident using this product to tile over the wood floor.
Cheers
It's also good for heated floors. As an electrician we run our heating conductor in between the squares. It holds the conductor very well
that would be the ditra heat you are referring too! Same general look but denser and has grooves for heating wires!
Thank you. This is exactly what I wanted to know at 4am
Used this product in upstairs master bathroom and was very pleased. One benefit Matt does not point out is sound dampening. Significantly lessens sound of footfalls on tile in downstair rooms.
°°
20 yrs installing this product it's the right stuff worth every penny
can you lay it upside down. I done it by mistake
I installed this because of the uncoupling. What I didn't expect was HOW MUCH BETTER my room felt after the install. I had zero insulation under my old faux hardwood floors. The ditra system made it so I can walk around barefoot in the winter in my own home again
How did it feel better? From what I understand it's meant to make tile instalation better and last longer. So why would it make your room feel better if your not even walking on it
Hay Matt, Excellent Video. When I was in Italy the house I was billeted in was an amazing structure hundreds of years old. This entire structure was masonry, with floors that had not cracked since originally built. What I witnessed amazed me and I couldn’t believe how simple and affective this method was. The tile floors where laid on sand. Like you said, uncoupled, when the building moves the floors just kind of vibrates sliding around. Crazy. Hope you have a Great New Year.
The same reason you lay a foot or two of sand before pouring a concrete slab for a garage, or putting a down a sand pad for an above ground pool. It's effective.
Sand is probably too heavy to be practical with today cheap wood stick carpentry used in america but i get the decoupling idea, that's great.
I removed one of these ditra systems and it was a nightmare wrestling match. Very strong install, surprised me and I've lots of demo experience.
exactly....awesome for install,..but it's a complete pita to remove.
Your character, wisdom, and presentation is the best I've witnessed in a long time. You deserve the best!!!
Are you this guys mom or something lol.
But in all seriousness it is a helpful video
I used this on our bathroom remodel project a few years ago. What a great product! I will always use this for tile work moving forward.
Don't do that.
This product is complete garbage
Use MAPEI green mat way better than this junk.
Your tiles will.pop out very soon.
The only way to know the truth is if you demolish bathrooms and have tested both products
This orange garbage fails all the time
Shluter is a crappy company I will never use them in my life never
They fail all the time.
Try to pull tiles over green Mapei mat and see how it will go .
You cannot remove them
Over this pink garbage they pop out like nithing.
Demolisued 3 bathrooms in one day
Tried to demolish a bathroom with Mapei and could not go quarter in one day and need power tools
Dont use this orange bs your tiles will crumble in a few years.
I'm in Arlington, TX ...I invested in an uncoupling membrane for my kitchen and bathroom tile install, 5 years ago. Best investment..my foundation has settled and repair has been done recently and no cracked tiles in the kitchen or bathroom. The installer definitely needs to install it correctly and use the correct mortar for the installation.
In North Dallas and all our kitchen tiles are cracking severely
@@QueOndaWhey OH NO! Gosh do you have foundation issues? It sucks when stuff is moving and cracking around you lol. If that's not it, I know my best friend had cracked tiles because of bad installation..not enough mortar used when they were installed.
Hope yall alright down there. 🙏🏽
If you have foundation issues its going to crack anyways.
@@smcewen7 None of my tiles have cracked, but hey I can't speak for everyone's experience with the product.
I installed this when I remodeled our master bath, complete custom shower, tub area, and flooring. About 500sq total tiling, including shower. It was an easy install and I really liked the fact that I can waterproof areas easily. My original tile floor was about 1" thick and now it is about 1/2" thick, so now I have door jams that have gaps, not sure what do about that.
I would recommend this product to anyone think is building or remodeling a home. Also, building the shower curb was a breeze and looks amazing. They have products that make the install look clean and professional. I was able to get all my products from Lowes and they had everything in stock.
For the bottoms of your door jambs, I recommend plinth blocks. They have them in stock at the big box stores. They're square and make the room look much more expensive. Just mark around the block with a pencil and cut away the casing and baseboard with an oscillating multitool. For the baseboard gaps, I recommend 'stop molding.' It's the molding on the door frame, that stops the door from going any further when you close it.
Did my master bath, with walk in shower (no curb) 7 years ago. With ditra, and kirdi awesome products. Their shower kits and drain assemblies are very well designed, be available here in Ontario Canada for over a decade, Mike Holmes has featured it on almost every build since it came available in north America
Also they are the products that will have hidden mold and rot and will never show
These products are the worst products i have ever seen.
My experience
I had to renovate 4 bathrooms in one house and rip apart this company products
On the surface everything was good under neat complete garbage
Watch horror stories here on youtube
All from this company products
I am using MAPEI way better and professional
This company y has good ideas but their products rot very easily.
I used the Kerdi shower system with the square drain and fleece to build my shower system 8 years ago and its working perfect. I hired out the tile work and the guy loved working around the square drain instead of the round ones most people us. If I did it again I would for sure add heat to the shower floor and the bathroom floor. Its a great system.
Hi Matt, I completely agree with you about the Schluter products. I used them on my concrete floor on grade about 10 years ago and I love it. I think at the time I felt that I was taking a chance after our whole downstairs flooded from a toilet overflow after a massive rainstorm. Less than a year, after install we had another massive overflow of the toilet. I cried and we had to empty the down stairs again, but because I had all the walls to floor waterproofed along the bottom edges with Kerdi, I did not have ANY need to repair dry wall. Boy was I happy!!! With the Ditra between the cement and the tile, I have not had any separation of Tile from the floor. And so as a result I am totally convinced, just as you are that Schluter products work. I did a lot of research before doing this and was pretty convinced ahead of time. I have NOT changed my mind, I spent extra money for it but never regretted the decision. Thank You Schluter!!!!!
DIYer here, and this is a great product. I need to remodel a bathroom and this is the way to go, thanks for the info.
One aspect that really impressed me is that you can use this to create a full room shower without a barrier.. Can be really creative.
I have an 8 bathroom new construction house I'm doing and they will all have curbless barrier free showers
@@jlanemiller totally!
@@jlanemiller pictures or it didn't happen 😉
Panasyukvic I’ll keep you posted!
You should look into Japanese showers, these are found on middle class homes all over the country. It's how I plan on building a master bath in my forever home.
I don't know why RUclips recommended this to me and I dont know why I watched it but now I'm going down the rabbit hole and watching more.
wtfuchattin lmao mr tooo🤦🏿♂️
Where am I?
Since I am deaf enough to need captioning, I watched once for action in background, once more to read. For a bad builder job master shower replacement, I gutted walls to metal studs over concrete slab (South Fl), replaced, added and reinforced studs, and did .5" cement board, doubled on longest wall. Properly notched grey pudding type waterproofing over all. Walls, floating bench (not the block type shown here), arched niche, upper corner shelf bowl draining cement pan to direct drain. I used several Schluter products....corner membrane, faucet water proofing pieces, drain top. But I am still with cement board. Properly done, cement board just makes me feel like it will BE there for awhile.
If you want it done right, DIY. Or micromanage a select subcontractor. 😉
122 lb lady DIY'er
Been using it for 25yrs now, can't beat it!
I've used all of their products, and it's an absolute pleasure to work with, and you end up with a bullet proof job.👏
I live in Sweden and I am a carpenter and concrete does not crack if you do it right. If it cracks the problem is
- to little rebar in the foundation
- concrete dries to fast when it is "burning"
- bad ground work under the foundations.
happy building!
Where he is in Texas most homes have tensioned concrete foundations that flex throughout the seasons on the first floor. It may go 3 months no rain on a clay ground, so the soil shrinks a lot. Hes talking about what he has to deal with
One of the most common causes of concrete cracking is excess water in the mix. This happens because wetter concrete is easier to work.
Nice job! Very informative. My husband suggested I view this since he is interested in using ICF for our new house construction. I liked the way you; broke down terms and made everything easy to understand. Your Pros and Cons were very helpful, since I too, had concerns about some of the issues you elaborated on.
as a builder/remodeler this system seems to be wonderful. I will install it in my own soon to be spa room on the third floor of my house and keep u posted as to the developments with this product/s.
I learned about rhis recently, and we used it on a bathroom remodel we did. I will say that it is awesome. Very easy to install and covers all your bases. I would definitely use it again.
I have used this product a few years ago out of interest, but now see how it can really be applied. Thank you for the video I now know what else I need to look out for.
I have known about this stuff for about 10 years now. Super nice product. I love its versatility.
I've used This product and absolutely Love it. Works great, as long as you do it as they have instructed. Do not try to cut corners with this product. Love it
Hi There. QUESTION ? I am doing a small tiling job. only x 2 square meters bathroom floor. I want to know ? Is there any multi purpose adhesive which I could use for both - sticking on waterproof decoupling membrane onto a concrete subfloor and also using the same adhesive for sticking tiles on top of it ?
I tiled two bathrooms on the second floor of my house 7 years ago. The subfloor is a chipboard. I used ditra in one of the bathrooms. In the other I used bakerboard and redgard on the top. Both floors look fine as of today. Tile and grout are in perfect condition. If I had to do it again, I would go with bakeroard and redgard. Easier to apply. I don't even understand from their ad why anybody would use ditra over a concrete floor. Two coats of redgard and flexibond is a way to go. I tiled 300 sq ft over very unstable concrete on the first floor in my house. ( It contracts and expands year around and the old tile was all cracked as a result. ) I isolated cracks with a membrane, put two coats of redgard and used flexibond. No problems so far.
Ditra is a good product, don't get me wrong, but it is expensive and PITA to apply. Try to fill all the waffles with a thinset!
you know how to install it? filling the waffles is easy.
Architect here - the idea of ditra over a concrete floor is to isolate the tile work from the concrete slab. If the slab cracks, the crack will not impact the tile work...
@@cptcosmo As I mentioned in my post I isolated cracks with membrane and used two coats of redgard. I also used flexibond for thinset.
@Anatoly Eydelzon your specific application has redguard and isolation membrane as an ideal and affordable solution due to it already having all the cracks for you to isolate. However in new construction, you have whatever lines the architect tells the concrete guys to cut in the slab. They are often times not very accurate lines as to where the cracks will actually form. Using a floor wide membrane eliminates those cracks from coming through the tile.
Spectacular demonstration for an awesome and innovative product line.
"Uncouple" is an appropriate verb for separating railroad cars, but the better engineering term would be "decouple."
Mike Holmes has been using this material for years in his remodels...great stuff. I wish I had known this product when I remodeled by bathrooms.
Love Mike Holmes he's one of the best and I wish more contractors took pride in their work and cared about their customers doing the job correctly the first time around.
Thank you for sharing this insightful video! The tips on maximizing return on investment by utilizing existing foundation space or expanding it strategically are extremely valuable for homeowners. Your expertise and clear explanations make complex concepts easy to understand. Keep up the great work!
Basically ignored everything the guy said because I was too transfixed on the dude laying down the thinset
LAUGHING... RIGHT... ME TOO
Matt wasn't paying too much attention to him, so you did (-; Me too.
The guy talks says nothing. While they show another guy doing the work that is hard to see what he was doing.
Nearly worthless video
Hahahah me too! While watching I just kept thinking 'He's never going to get good adhesion to the back of that shluter' lol. That's what happens when you spread thinset over particle board. The particle board soaks up all the water from the thinset and the materials don't bond. Total crapola install! LOL
I also got a kick at 6:45 when the guy was struggling to get mud out of the bucket using his notch trowel. Could he not afford a pail scoop or any number of trowels/knives that could get help him get that mud out faster? That was almost painful to watch! Lol
Wonderful invention. *The floor is also warmer* with this type of insulation.
That's heat cables. Somewhat different product. It looks more like lego studs with cable in between. Or it could be water pipes in the slab.
Tile is as cold as my soul otherwise.
Tile is always going to be cold unless you are piping hot water or electric heating pads under it. Great for hot weather though! Carpet nice soft and warm but not durable, and pain the keep clean.
I installed about 250k ft of tile over my career and I was very reluctant to start using these uncoupling mats. I've had very few issues with bond failure on my tile jobs,I have done repairs where the tile has come loose on the top half of the ditra mat. I have used uncoupling mats with the fleece on both sides,that's what I use now.
This is fantastic. Here in the UK people have little or no confidence in builders because they do everything as cheap as possible only to cause home owners additional costs to rectify shoddy workmanship. Just listening to you, give me confidence in this product (even though I am useless at DIY) to have it installed in my next home.
Thank you
We like to use stuff like because it means we don't have to fix cracked tiles all the time for free.
I thank you for your video. I wish I could find an honest contractor like you. You make it look so easy.
They all make it look easy, that's why it's on you tube. $$$
Matt, I am actually doing my own shower remodel as well as the entire master bathroom. I'll be using Schluter's Kerdi system at least for the shower, which I'll be making a custom floor pan with Kerdi's drain as well. From what I've researched it is going to be a great option for our remodel. I'll try to get some photos and maybe a video of the remodel as we progress if your interested. Great product in my opinion. Your videos have definitely made me think more about the products I use in my DIY projects as well as what I'll be using should we decide to build our next home.
That product is simply an Anti Fracture Membrane, its very pricey product, sure its a great product if you want to spend big bucks, or you can use a simple Anti Fracture membrane that people have been using for years, and its cost is a fraction. Great video.
I'll stick to vinyl planks. Easy to put in, easy to take out when you want to update. you can also reuse what you took out.
Vinyl planks are not waterproof. You'll find out when there's a leak . . .
In Sweden we have a thinner membrane with taped corners. All glued with a 2component glue.
The level is fixed before so all surface angles down to the drain with a steel mesh net in it, so that ”cake” won’t crack if the foundation moves.
I’ve been using Schluter Kerdi and Ditra products… sheets, board, shower pans… making benches, curbs, tub pedestals, etc., for the past 7 or 8 years. It’s versatile, fast… excellent!
ive been in tile for 16 years and schluter is by far and away the most inventive companies i've ever used products from. it has saved me time, headache, and sheer pain. to go from 80lb sheets of concrete board to a roll that can do a whole floor that weighs like ... nothing? it's stupid strong, flexes with movement, is virtually mold immune, can be waterproofed completely.. i mean it's stupid not to use honestly. i do not work for schluter, I am just a tile guy who loves good products.
Thanks Steve. Appreciate the personal experience
I'll second that, i've been using it when it was corrugated, not squares, fitted 100's and 100's of meters of it. All Schluter products are brilliant especially the wetroom drains, no one builds an easier to fit or stronger system :)
Greetings from Guayaquil, Ecuador. Your videos are of great quality, congratulations. The importance of your dialogues requires that they be translated and put as subtitles. Please try to do so as soon as possible in Spanish, the construction-loving community will thank you.
Thank you for this (from Ontario, Canada). I’m retired & have worked on a number of tile projects over the past few years. I was looking for a system to reduce the thickness of tile install over plywood subfloor & still get good results without using concrete boards. Really enjoy your videos.
Thank you for this great comment.
Man thank you and thank you RUclips algorithms! I need to replace linoleum in my basement from a massive water leak. It is on concrete and was concerned about cracks. Will definitely check this out.
Very impressive and informative.
Just bought a house with most of the bathroom custom tiled. I hope the person(s) used this in their install. Only time will tell as myself and the Mrs. use the bathroom.
I'm now a sub!
Seeing a lot of these 'membrane' applications around YT these days. Good! I've been using rubber membranes between my dry wall/plasterboard since the 90's. I always fit highest quality double glazed windows too. #1 complaint of most private tenants is sound/air pollution. Always found it totally mind blowing that 99% of landlords don't think this matters. Guess they enjoy turning over tenants every 6 months! I think I've saved myself thousands of hours wasted on admin/checks over the years. A well maintained property = happy long term tenants. No brainer!
I can't believe that some places still allow builders to install single glazed windows for living spaces, the quality of life benefits from the thermal/sound blocking is so big that it should be in every building code. Not to mention poor ventilation is so common if left up to the tenant so you don't want condensation to wreck the sills with mould.
What rubber membranes do you use? Researching sound deadening and there's lots of opinions. Most recommend 2 layers of 5/8 as the most cost effective method. Thanks
Been using Ditra for years, including Ditra Heat, love it! Have also done a few showers using Kerdi and Kerdi Board, wouldn't do it any other way. Great system!
steven kile 😂😂😂😂😂
Thats all we use. Most tradesmen don't do the training to understand the system. I use kerdi for al my repair jobs of the other so called superior systems, the more things change the more they stay the same- doing things the same old dumb ways and most guys don't even do it right the old way
I don’t know if you have more online videos like this but you are the best teacher I have ever been able to actually watch online and learn better than I can when I’m on the site because I get yelled and bitched at. You’re calm you are very well spoken and you show an example As you were explaining yourself somebody is doing the background work at the same time. Brilliant. Please continue as this is something that I would definitely describe four or even sign up for for course. Learned on the job well, I can imagine you only understand better than I do these people we work for I just bitch and moan and call you names but don’t teach you. Thank you for doing this. God bless I hope your family is safe healthy and well.
Used schluter on a bathroom renovation I did. On the floor and in the shower. Made my life so much easier
Thank you for the heads up on Shcluter, I hope to use this on a outdoor small covered porch at approximately 60 sq ft.
Awesome stuff, but after taking out a multitude of 1950's bathrooms that were almost completely tiled with some funky colors I might add, they were built some tough !! Found only one with some minor water damage but not bad after 50-60yrs !! Hopefully this holds up as well, as I think it will.
Chickenwire + thick bed of mortar = make the new guy do the tearout!
@@entropyfan5714 tell me about it just tore out a bath with .25 inch drywall then steel mesh with 2.5-3 inch concrete then tile I used a diamond wheel cutter to cut in between the studs and pryed it off in chunks, worst demo ever lol especially aroumd the plumbing and electrical!!
@@marcfavell they built it to last - thought the 50's would never end...
@@megenberg8 yeah for sure same principles apply now to installs of tile and stone and they also knew it when they made the parthenon just the material technology is different now but same principles!!
i had to tear one out once. it was mud over diamond mesh wire, man that stuff was hard!
I just watched the whole thing and I don't even build nor remodel houses.
I'm a 70 year old with a bad back & knees & have no plans to get down on my knees. I wouldn't be able to get back up. 😂 Plus I'm not building anything either.
@Mike B... I'm a 70 year old, retired kitchen & bath remodeler, with arthritis & two artificial knees, but, there is one job left in me and that's my own master bath tile floor job, so glad I stumbled on to this channel, I didn't know about this stuff, no more Durarock... Wahoo!... Oh yeah, I'm going to have to get somebody to help me get off my knees ;-》
I have always enjoyed watching Mike Holmes use these products on all of his shows.
I lot all respect for Mike Holmes when he endorsed 3M Filtrete "furnace killer" air filters.
Mike holmes doesnt nothing about tile instalation hes dick
Holmes is a sellout, he was sponsored to promote this crap. I have no respect for him since he flogged this crap on his show.
@@marcopoulin1897what the hell are you talking about? How's he a dick?
We are planning to use this system in our new custom home! As an architect, we always spec Schluter products!
Matt is absolutely right...if you are a contractor doing this kind of work the Schluter line of products is 100% what you want to learn & use.
RUclips algorithms, we meet again
Plot twist: Not this time
Is there anything original in that brain of yours instead of this constant copy and paste from you parrots?
@@Tre16 Is there anything original in that brain of yours instead of this constant copy and paste from you parrots?
@@tomjohnable
😆
Hello Clareese
I see the resistance of "Experinced installers" like those posting here - watched that happen for years at Lowe's same with epoxy grout - installers hated it because they had to go slower and couldn't slap it up and run out the door - Schlutter, Epoxy grout and a number other newer products take a little more time, more skill and yes more cost to customer - in the long run the customer wins and the installer saves time on call backs and fighting with customers over failed installs. BUT you have to do it right or it won't work - that means CHANGING your work habits.
Epoxy grout only commercial projet dont ask me for house
I been doing tile for over 16 years and don’t let guys like this’d fool u besides the fact that orange stuff is not cheap it is not nessesary
Looks to me like a huge waste of money. Doubling on your mortar and time.
He said not to lay tile on wood board I have been doing that for over 15 years haven't had any problems
Schmitty rocks! Nice work, Matt, always appreciate your presentations.
I used this to fix a crumbling tile landing that had been affixed directly to hardwood with mortar in the 60s or so. Its amazing.
Only thing is people need to pick the right adhesion product. Certain mastic/mortar are specifically stated to not be used with these.
Super easy to use. 10/10 would recommend
i don't know why i watched this. this is not relevant to my life. but i watched it.
I was surprised you didn’t make this video earlier. I have been using this product for years and the time saving will pay for the extra cost. You should also use the Kerdi product as well
Welcome to 15 years ago with Mike Holmes.
lol, he was immediately who came to mind for me too!
OU812 .... HIHIHIHI then u can imagine how long we have and used in Germany .... this is here everything new ... yeah new for North America ...LOL
@@wolfgangselle4307 The Germans always make good stuff...
@@OU81TWO except cars 🙃 your mechanic practically becomes a member of the family!
It's a good thing he's not presenting it as something new.
Going to Schlueter event because this video. Appreciate all you do thanks Matt
Have fun!
I’m surprised this video from just 10 months ago, I would have expected Matt would have been using this 10 years ago!!
A few years ago, I have installed this Schulter Ditra underlayment plastic and have marble over at the second floor bathrooms. Now, every time my husband is in the master bathroom I know because I heard squeaking noise from Schulter Ditra and I regret I don't choose hardboard underlayment.
Wrong! Custom home builder here who also does high-end renovations. Squeaking comes from movement between two stiffer elements. 90% of the squeaks I have found in homes are nails moving up and down and deflecting wood. Sometimes it's wood on wood similar to two branches when the wind moves the trees. That synthetic membrane does not squeak. I've tried numerous times and never get any sound out of it. It's the subfloor below the ditra mat. There's a nail in the plywood subfloor below the mat. When the floor deflects the plywood moves and makes the nail squeak. I have been called to many other contractors customers with squeaky issues. And I always find the squeak. It could be a royal PITA, but I find it in 90% it's wood moving and the nail is not. Every now and then it's two pieces of wood.
Here’s what I don’t understand about adding Kerdi-band to a seam over Ditra. There’s pockets with raised walls and recesses. Knowing that Thinset isn’t waterproof (I know, I tested it), and that’s what you’re using to apply the Kerdi-band…how does it help with those channels of the Ditra possibly allowing water to seep within those channels (even though they’re filled with non-waterproof thinset)?
You want thickness anyway , if you go from bathroom to badroom carpet , after they lay pad+carpet , when you use cement board it will pretty much bring tile level with ur carpet , and youll get nice transition. Between tile and carpet or 3/4 hardwood floors
That's where the XL comes into play.
this stuff is awesome- i'm an owner/builder and i've done two bathrooms, a laundry room, a couple of kitchens and a deck with this stuff and most are past the ten year mark and all have experienced zero issues.
What type of deck? I want to lay vinyl planking on top of trex on my enclosed porch
@@richardraad2816 it's a slate deck over a garage. 2 layers of ply, ditra, kerdiband on all edges and seams, and then flashing above that and then slate on top of that. The deck is super rigid, 2x12 (16 foot span) every foot, and 4x 2x12 under part of the deck that something else is supported by. Note that schluter does not like people to do this, i dont think it's because it doesn't work, i think it's because they would rather I had used their more expensive products that they market for outdoor use.
I don't build houses or have the plan to do so later but I still enjoyed this video xD you did it again RUclips algorithm, you did it again.
We had that stuff put under our floors and in large areas, the grout started to crack and come out within a week or two. I'm sure it was installed wrong, but what a pain it was to get it corrected.
A builder should always have every possible method in his arsenal. This system was covered by Holmes on Homes some time ago however it is nice to be reminded of it. As a decoupler, it may also be good under wood floors which are glued to a slab (only after a water seepage test has been performed and passed) to keep the boards from separating over time if a crack develops.
Yep!.... I thought this product was GENIUS when I first saw it on Mike Holmes’ show!
I l😍watching his very informative show....I learned so much valuable information!
I have water damage on part of my floating wood and want to replace with tiles. So, this product will be PERFECT to use over my concrete slab- and I NEVER have to worry about title shifting with fluctuating temperatures. I’m so excited, I can see my plan coming together, perfectly!🎊
THANK YOU, for this informative video!
P.S. I can buy a small quantity of needed supplies to use in an 33 square-foot area?
Um... Why would you use ditra over a slab?
@Sergey Romanchenko We don't post tension anything not in multistory commercial settings. Here in Wisconsin, we don't pour on grade. We can't. We have a frost line. We dig below it and we do ground prep. thusly making a post tension slab a waste of money. What's it like to have slabs that crack on the inside of a building? I wouldn't know, because we don't. But you already knew all of that because you have common sense and knowledge, right Boris? Man, it doesn't matter where you put a Russian, that inferiority complex just shines like a bright ol' beacon doesn't it Natasha?
This was great demo, explanation, and I got to hear the concrete tip again because I watched another demo of this in 2022 and exact same.
Difference with this video is the "Cannonball" into the bath tub part 🤣
Another classic line.
I used it on a 3/4” plywood bath floor that I was trying to maintain the elevation going into an existing floor outside that bathroom, so I didn’t have the room to add 1/2” cement board. After a couple years and no cracks in my tile. That’s all I need for proof that this works...
These are great products, first found out about them from Mike Holmes, he has been using these for years. If it's Holmes approved then it's good for me.
I’ve been a tile setter for 43 years and I can tell you in all honesty whenever You hard fasten you the subfloor you will have problems. Wood never stops being a tree swelling with moisture in the summer and shrinking in the winter this will cause joints to crack every single time.A floating mud bed is far less expensive than This product and much more reliable.
Jeff Nelson Builder of high end homes in Connecticut for 35 years, could not disagree more. If your using a plywood base and leave a saw blade kerf between sheets you will not have cracks.
We have bathroom with this product on a wooden floor, they used thin tiles on this product on the floor, lots of tiles are broken because this product bends down walking on it,but better for thick tiles
Sounds like it wasnt installed correctly. It should not compress at all
What subflooring do you need under this stuff?
@@private8559 thanks.
have given a thumbs up for this product and the video; Though have been tiling in the UK now for 36 yrs! ...Sadly I find that for many suburb jobs , the price is by far the primary factor! In short if you choose to price in an excellent product like this to the overall cost;, sadly someone else will get the job?.....Though from a thermal perspective this looks excellent! Would definitely include this within a job whereby the customer is not hunting for a cheaper option👍
I have specified Schluter systems many times over the last 10 years or so and it is my go to spec for any tiled areas irrespective of whether they are wet or not. In fact I was called to provide a rectification spec on two large office reception areas where the tiling had reflective cracking over concrete daywork joints. In both areas threats of consequential loss and disruption meant that the pressure was on to settle the issue once and for all. Schluter provided both the Ditra matting and the underfloor heating mat (check this out it is the best system I have seen) in the two areas.
Mapei is better
This company is epic fail all the time.
Will never use them in my life
All their products are complete garbage
You will find out when your cliets sew you in a few years and you cannot explain why all their oroducts failed.
MAPEI is number one
This company is a sham.
Please research Moxie concrete additive. Eliminates: Water permeability, structural instability from curing processes, expansion/contraction from freezing water, toxic “white dust” over time, and need for rebar (though local code will still mandate it!). I’m not a rep or anything but I’ve been on jobs that used Moxie treated concrete in the wet mix and am amazed it isn’t standard for all concrete worldwide.
I love this product! especially the Ditra heat membrane
20 years using durock, tried shluter once and was disappointed with the spongy walls....I’ll stick with durock 👍
60 years ago, Earnest Pisano, put tile on plywood. Real 3/4" plywood. years went by, and the only reason I started taking things apart, was because of a leak from the toilet. (The toilet did not last 60 years). I was STUNNED. 3/4" plywood was in near new condition, and perfectly fine. I glued the tile that fell back up. It worked better then anything I've ever seen, and it did not fight the water that hard.
As usual, very informative important (must have) information. Your videos should be considered for credit for continuous education units for contractors.
I too want german waffles under my floor.
Great info.. Always very informative . Thanks Matt! 😎 Regarding type of concrete ... Mine is ...the cracked kind. 😳
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I've heard of Belgian waffles, but German waffles, that's a new one. haha
Hmm, German waffles... Wonder if it's more buttery than Belgian waffles 🤔🤔
Of course, German Americans are the best! 😁
Do we get extra points if we know how to (correctly) pronounce Schluter Ditra... LOL
This is a GREAT Video... Love it... great information... I have been afraid to use this, but now I will consider it.
I "Flip" RVs (on my 25th one right now)... This is a great idea. Well worth the money, just for the insulation too.
Noise reduction... and making it look so nice.
Thank you for sharing this great video... you took the "scary" out of this technique.
Mike Holmes has been using this on his tv show for years in Canada
you said mike holmes and canada in the same sentence
Mike Holmes used to have a show on HGTV called "Make It Right" which is his slogan. He did a few shows building houses in New Orleans 9th ward where Brad Pitt had his organization. Years later most of those houses are falling apart because they didn't use materials suited for that environment. The lawsuits are working their way through the courts.
Mike homes he is salsman na talent fucking big mouth but shluter membrane realy good stuff but dont hire him to instale it his have no clue how to do it right
We gutted our bathroom and used yhis product on the floors, halfway up the walls, and in the shower area. Word to the wise....do NOT let your tile installer use their choice of mastic. You MUST use
a recommended type of mastic or it will not dry properly. We loved uding this product!
@Matt Risinger, good deal. I'm also in Texas. Just north of Dallas, but about to move to the Houston area, and I know exactly what you mean about cement pads. So far, I haven't had any call backs for cracked tile, but, I have repaired many cracks. This stuff looks good.