Awesome job installing Schluter. The only suggestion I have is never push the nail back in. Take the nail out and apply wood screw ensuring that nail won't pop back up and put a hole in Ditra. Great job man!
Thank you very much for the explanation of why you chose to use the Ditra membrane. I have been vacillating over which route to take because my subflooring is 3/4" plywood, 16" OC. Your sound reasoning has convinced me to go this route. I am about to tile our dining room, kitchen, and master bathroom floors using 12"x24" porcelain and it makes perfect sense to use a waterproofing membrane. I will need to use a self leveling product in a spot or two, but I'm definitely going the Ditra route - appreciate it!
I wouldn't take the chance with 24" tile with only 3/4" subfloor. Code requires a min of 1 1/8" thick subfloor because of deflection. Ditra doesn't add any strength just deals with expansion and contraction.
Thanks, dude! This video and part 2 really help me use the Schluter system in my bathroom remodel... the use of the kerdi band around the bathtub was indispensable!
you prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my password. I love any tips you can offer me
@Killian Kairo i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Its great stuff. And if you tear out a shower and theres nothing behind it (which there normslly isn't ) you can run that go board unstead oh hardy board. Love thst stuff too. Even though it eill eat you up if not careful.
HI ✋️is there a multi purpose adhesive for sticking down decoupling waterpoof membrane and also using stick down tiles onto😢 membrane? Using the same adhesive?
Is this something that can be directly installed on subfloor or do i need to add a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch particle board/ply wood on the subfloor bathroom?
I am getting ready to tile my upstairs bath. The flooring is 2x6 tongue and groove. It previously had mortar and wire mesh. All has been removed and I have been told to put a layer of 1/4 hardy over thin set. I'm not sure I shouldn't put plywood instead. Most videos do not reference 2x6 subfloors.
I've heard others say this as well, I've had a terrible time getting the mud to bond to the underside of the ditra. I ended up having to back butter the ditra to get a 100 bond. I first did everything by the directions and the first time I had near zero percent bond, it just pushed the thinset down into the shape of the individual cells of the membrane (ditra heat) I put the thinset down quick, and I put the maximum amount of water in the mix (according to the back). Not sure if the extra work is worth it vs how we did it for decades before.
That shouldn’t be the case, I highly recommend watching this video for more details on how to properly install DITRA ruclips.net/video/VQbEcXBnMoU/видео.html
My tile guy did 4 apartments for me 8 years ago with this and I've used it ever since. I've never had to go back and fix cracked tiles or grout. The floor was 16" centers, 16' span, 1/2" plywood with 3/4 mdf. I pulled up the 40 year old mdf and put down 3/4 plywood so my floor was 1.25" thick when he put the tile down. Other floors were just 3/4 plywood. Detra has always worked
I am about to tile my bathroom floors which are only 3/4" plywood over 16" spaced joists. Problem is that plywood has glue on it from previous vinyl. The glue is difficult to remove. (I had to remove the vinyl due to some repairs that needed to be made due to a leaking toilet.) Would it be advantageous to screw down another piece of floor to put the ditra down on or will the modified thinset stick to that 3/4" plywood in spite of the remnants of glue?
I am doing my cabin bathroom with in floor heating and I have the Schluter Ditra mats (2x2). I noticed the mat you put down doesn't have the little "nubs" for the wiring to attach to, is this a different style for in floor heat set up? I do really like the way you described everything to be done and the voice over helped as well. Great video guys.
It definitely won't. The only reason you wet the substrate is to keep it from prematurely pulling moisture from the thinset. Wetting the plastic "fleece" isn't going to do anything except take extra time and labor.
I personally believe gluing the Ditra rather then using thinset because plywood will soak up all the moisture before the thinset is fully effective. I've used glue and it worked great
+D Beaulieu are you referring to the Ardex adhesive? We've heard it works well. Schluter's ALL-SET is our preferred thin-set now since they formulated it for under and over DITRA
Yes I was and one reason why I really like it is, you don't have to mix it. Its all scoop and go. The second reason is, sometimes with thinset, if you kneel on it, the thinset moves around under your knees and you form mounds. The glue doesn't do that.
Clarifying question, because the terms subfloor is often misinterpreted. I have a 23/32 subfloor screwed directly to the floor joists. Will I be able to lay mortar, then Ditra, mortar, then tile directly onto my 23/32 subfloor or do I need an additional layer of plywood?
Great video ! I'm getting ready to do my first tile floor in a whole bathroom remodel. This was a great video very good info. Any other tricks to install the detra that wasn't shown in the video
DYI here. Completely redoing our 8x8 (not exact) hall bathroom. walls are dwn to the studs and just redid the plumbing to accommodate the new layout. New subfloor is 3/4" Advantech. It is not perfectly level (not terrible) and some joints are 1/8" higher/lower. Using 1/4" Ditra (16" off center joist). to accommodate the transition height. My question is. Does the subfloor need to be perfectly level and do the joint heights need to meet perfectly? Thank you. Great videos.
as long as the subfloor is flat and mostly level you should be fine. Under the tub or shower tray it needs to be level so the water will drain properly. You want the DITRA joints to meet evenly with each other. Otherwise the tile setting will be problematic
Thank you for a great video tutorial. Would you mind clarifying something for me please? The thinset recomend by the manufacturer to bond the membrane is modified or unmodified? Thank you so much. And please keep making more great videos.
Schluter recommends modified when setting Ditra over wood subfloors but you can use their ALL-SET both under and on top of Ditra and Ditra-Heat. Mix thin-set per their directions to get the right consistency, ensure 95-100% coverage to the fleece. Also, use the correct trowel and directional troweling to compress all the ridges.
From their FAQ : "The thin-set mortar used for bonding KERDI must be appropriate for the substrate, and it must penetrate and engage the KERDI fleece. Generally, Schluter-SET, Schluter-ALL-SET, Schluter-FAST-SET, or UNMODIFIED thin-set mortar is used." But from this video (ruclips.net/video/wMzXu1NRMAM/видео.html), and from the installation instructions on the website it shows modified thinset below the membrane, unmodified above the membrane (below the tile) sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h7a/h5d/9019679637534/Uncoupling%20Data%20Sheet.pdf
*******Question******* I bought a roll to redo my guest bathroom and have a ton left over. Could I use this as underlayment for my kitchen floor laminate wood flooring??
My subfloor is layered tongue and groove 100 year old subfloor plus 3/8 ply we added to smooth it out. It totals at least 3/4, is this ok, or do you have to use 3/4 ply?
If floor joist spaces is 2 ft use ¾ ... And if less they say ½ minimum .. also depends on how big of area ... Also ditra has a handbook in each roll also can Google .. ditra handbook 2019 ..and scroll down and and it will show a picture and break down of your exact floor
Hi. Thanks for the video. You answered in a previous question that this technique and product can be used on linoleum. Do you still use unmodified thinset?
The most important thing for professional installers is do the job fast and move on to the next job. They use this type of product for one reason only - it's fast and easy to apply. Cement board is more durable and less likely to flex with the sub-floor, but cement board is heavy and takes two to three times longer to install. Over time Ditra will break its bond with the sub-floor.
There's a separation layer to allow for movement that cement board does not. Prevents tiles from cracking. Especially when installing over concrete floor (which will crack and transfer crack to tile)
How the hell does it loose bond you need to try tearing some off once .. ditra has been around since 1975 if it was so bad I think ditra would have died
Quick question: If you have to leave a 1/4" gap from the wall to allow for expansion and contraction, why are the seams butted against each other? Why is there no gap for expansion and contraction between sheets?
Would this work in a modern 1 year old mobile home with 2x8 joist 16 inch on center with 2 layers of 3/4 inch tongue and groove treated plywood subfloor?
I always got full cover very easy when I apply underlayment sealer over the plywood before thin set and Ditra, let me know is it the right way doing it or not but seem working fine, no call back.
I am laying down 24x24 italian porcelain tile. The mortar for this is for heavier tiles, can I use the same mortar for tile to unite the ditre to the 3/4 plywood?
Is it a no go to apply the thin set onto a painted substrate? I had a small mold issue and put a coat of a special mold control paint where I had cleaned it up
To be honest if you have toilet overflow that membrane wont help that much you will see water downstairs.But protecting from tile cracks will work just perfectly
Hopefully you've already figured out that yes, you do. I put down 1/2" to beef up the substrate and allow that to be the sacrificial layer for when the next homeowner wants to remodel, and the house's sub-floor can be left alone, integral and not chawed by mortar that either won't come up, or takes chunks with it.
Two questions: I have screw holes in my plywood from old particleboard that was installed over my subfloor should I fill those holes with wood filler/kwikwood or something before I put the thinset on? I also have some places where the plywood is chipped and dented, how should I level it?
If I am removing my linoleum and laying this over the wood sub floor, do I need to remove ALL of the old glue used to install the original linoleum? Or is there an “acceptable percentage?”
You could try a belt sander to remove as much as possible but the risk is creating low spots in the wood. Another option is to lay down 1/4" plywood or another wood veneer layer to cover the glue. A third (of many possible) options is do what I do: experiment. Over the years I've learned a lot by trying things, and taking note of what works. The risk of leaving a bit of old glue seems like a small risk. The label of the product would warn about it, and you can read the label by looking up the product on Amazon and hovering the computer mouse over the container label.
Hi great video. I have a bathroom that is half plywood and the other half is self leveling mix. What type of thinset do you prefer to apply to both sub floors?
So after I finish prepping the floor with all the steps shown in the video, what mortar would I use to put bigger porcelain tiles on the floor? Modified or unmodified?
I understand that OSB needs to be primed before placing Strata Mat or Ditra because the moisture in the thinset will swell the OSB. What type of primer" Kilz type or something else?
Do not use anything less than plywood. OSB will not tolerate water like plywood or real wood or concrete. To see this, cut a small square of plywood and a small square of OSB (or MDF or particle board or etc) and immerse them in water. Let stand overnight. Next day take them out of the water. Let them dry out for 12 to 24 hours. Then you'll know why not to use OSB - I bring this up because the entire point is water proofing, and using a wood product like OSB that is much worse under water exposure (compared to plywood) is just not rational. Repetitive water exposure with OSB is a real bummer. Plywood can handle repeated water exposure much better. Durability OSB and plywood vary in terms of durability. OSB absorbs water more slowly than plywood, which can be beneficial in areas of low dampness. However, once it has absorbed water, it dries more slowly. It also warps or swells after water absorption and will not return to its original shape. Plywood absorbs water more quickly, but it also dries more quickly. When it dries, it is more likely to return to its regular shape. Plywood’s edges also resist damage better than OSB, which can crack and fray upon impact and over time.
@@Greg_Chase Hi Greg. Thank you for this information. I totally agree with you about OSB and water. The issue is that we purchased an 18-year-old home. We ripped out all 4000 sf of flooring and learned that the subfloor throughout the home is OSB (commonly used subfloor material in our area). We aren't going to replace the subfloor since it's in great condition. We have to work with what we've got. Since asking this question, I've learned that any holes in the subfloor from nails or whatever should be filled with 100% silicone. Then the entire OSB subfloor in the master bathroom and adjoining closet can be sealed (primed) with LevelQuik Concrete Bonding Latex Primer (appropriate for OSB). This prepares the OSB to adhere to the cementitious thinset that will bind the Ditra heat mat to the OSB. I have the LevelQuik in hand and am ready to move forward. Onward to the next step and, I'm sure, more questions.
@@mimihealy5046 Understood - my point was only where there is water, not the whole house. Just the bathroom. You have 4000sqft of OSB which is fine, and in the bathroom, you can elect to replace it with plywood. The rest of the house except kitchen and bath have near-zero water exposure. The bathroom(s) have daily water exposure. We've owned and operated rentals since 1993 and when we find ourselves removing old flooring, if a sub-standard (for wet areas like bathrooms) subfloor is discovered, we either: 1) replace it with something better 2) go over the top with something better The reason being, if we go to the trouble of putting down new tile in a bathroom, we reduce to an absolute minimum the chance of moisture in the subfloor just ruining the tile job. We try for an 'industrial-strength' approach to minimizing the risk of floor warping in the kitchen and bath.
It's one of those things...it's kind of like insurance to prevent the new expensive floor from mechanically failing. However...in my first 2006 new-construction house that was built with crappy NJ builder grade short cuts, all the tile was installed rather quickly over a secondary plywood substrate floor. In the 13 years we were there, the tile never failed, despite being Home Depot grade tile and installed rather hastily. We sold the place before doing any flooring upgrades, but there was nothing technically failing on those tile floors. Likewise my parents now have a 30 year old tile kitchen floor over the original 70s linoleum...and it too has no mechanical failures. This product in my limited opinion solves a problem which probably wasn't much of a problem to begin with, but it caught on as building science became more of a thing and marketing for the sake of selling everything went onto an exponential curve. It just allows bad tilers to work even faster and mask shoddy work, although it does allow for use of bigger tiles with an almost guaranteed chance of success. And when it's time for yet another floor, now you have about another 1-2 days worth of rip out and grinding involved.
Can you use Ditra over a newly installed hardie backer board for shower or areas of water plumbing? Is this too much of a over kill or ok to do? Or possible to do? Or will this harm anything
Remember that Hardibacker is not waterproof. Many mistakenly think that Hardibacker is all you need. You should use the Schlüter System product known as Kerdi waterproofing membrane and affix it with thin set, and their Kerdi-band overlapping 2”. If you already did not have the Hardibacker up you could have simply used the Kerdi-Board, and glue it to the studs.
Thanks for the video. Can the Ditra be laid straight onto 5 inch floor boards or would you recommend putting sheet plywood down first? The boards are 1 inch thick and laid on 16 inch centre joists. I dont want too much of a raised bathroom floor at the door threshold so if I can get away without using ply then so much the better. Cheers
Hi, the ditra install manual says the plywood can be 19/32 minimum thickness. You say 3/4 in the video. If you have 19/32 sub floor would you recommend putting ditra over it?
19/32" is about 5/8" and that is too thin for a subfloor. Even if you're not putting tile down, the 'give' of that thin plywood over time would be noticeable. Right now I'm redoing a bathroom floor that has 5/8" (aka 19/32") plywood subfloor. The 'give' in that thickness of plywood ended up, over the years, creating so many cracks in the tile, it was incredible. I am laying down another 3/8" layer of plywood on top of the existing 5/8" subfloor. There will be a minor transition step-up into the bathroom after the finish flooring material (glue-down vinyl planks) is installed but I'm okay with that. Another option was to lay down a 1/4" plywood 2nd layer and have no transition, but the 'give' in that 5/8" subloor floor was enough to make me want to beef it up using the 3/8" instead of the 1/4". The 'give' in any flooring makes it feel real cheap.
Ok so I didn’t put a layer of thinset down before I started troweling..how much of an effect will this have on this? I cleaned the plywood floor very well with a sponge before applying
I have 3/4 subfloor on 16 on center joists. The 2x10 joists have valleys and crowns that cause the subfloor to hump and valley. My plan is to put sand down the high points first. Then apply a 1/2 overlayment layer of plywood to stiffen the subfloor for large format tile. What should I use to flatten the subfloor before I install the Schluter Ditra? Can I use a thin set morter and scree it flat or should I use a self leveling compound on top?
What if you want to install porcelain tile into connecting rooms. Their is 3/4 plywood in first room and tongue &groove oak in second room. Both are flush.
Wait, first you tell us to stay at least a 1/4" away from the wall and tub. Then, you apply thinset right up to the wall. I am lost. What happened to that buffer zone?
The 1/4" "buffer zone" he is talking about is for expansion and contraction of the floor. When the floor moves and it will, the ditra then will not hit the wall and buckle up a tile or crack a grout line. The thin set he applies in between the ditra and the wall does not interfere with that expansion joint, it actually just helps fill that void the wall and subfloor creates, making it "water proof". Hope that helps!
I will be installing tile floor in a 1926 home with diagonal laid 1 x 6 boards for the sub floor. Can I use Ditra in this installation without anything additional to the subfloor?
Good question, Ditra’s handbook covers that. I believe they recommend 3/4” plywood over the existing boards. Then you apply Ditra using modified thin-set mortar or Schluter All-Set
John I’m in a 1925 home with the same plank subfloor. You need to place plywood or OSB over the planks before using Ditra. The Ditra instructions clearly show this example in the illustrations. You can find it one their website.
Good video, I am doing my basement bathroom. I am planning to have dmx on concrete floor then 5/8 osb on top dmx underlayment to make the subfloor. Here I have 2 questions: 1. Do I need to use self-leveller on concrete first or over the OSB? 2. Can I just put the tiles over osb not using the This Ditra? Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Can you use ditra under 12” marble tiles? On a wood subfloor? What is a standard subfloor for marble and natural stone like travertine? This is for three bathrooms. Thank you!
Awesome job installing Schluter. The only suggestion I have is never push the nail back in. Take the nail out and apply wood screw ensuring that nail won't pop back up and put a hole in Ditra. Great job man!
Thank you very much for the explanation of why you chose to use the Ditra membrane. I have been vacillating over which route to take because my subflooring is 3/4" plywood, 16" OC. Your sound reasoning has convinced me to go this route. I am about to tile our dining room, kitchen, and master bathroom floors using 12"x24" porcelain and it makes perfect sense to use a waterproofing membrane. I will need to use a self leveling product in a spot or two, but I'm definitely going the Ditra route - appreciate it!
I wouldn't take the chance with 24" tile with only 3/4" subfloor. Code requires a min of 1 1/8" thick subfloor because of deflection. Ditra doesn't add any strength just deals with expansion and contraction.
Good video. I actually just finished a Ditra membrane installation today after watching this video in the morning. It worked perfectly!! Thanks.
Thx again for showing us how it’s done. Very helpful.
Thank you, most thorough tutorial I have found. I have been searching videos for weeks trying to get a detailed tutorial. Great job.
Buy their repair tutor videos, $99 it’s worth a $1,000,000
Thanks, dude! This video and part 2 really help me use the Schluter system in my bathroom remodel... the use of the kerdi band around the bathtub was indispensable!
you prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost my password. I love any tips you can offer me
@Dakari Gregory Instablaster =)
@Killian Kairo i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Killian Kairo It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Dakari Gregory you are welcome =)
According to the installation instructions use ANSI A118.11 modified thin-set over plywood
All-Set or Fast-Set is good
Its great stuff. And if you tear out a shower and theres nothing behind it (which there normslly isn't ) you can run that go board unstead oh hardy board. Love thst stuff too. Even though it eill eat you up if not careful.
Would applying a thin coat of PVA to your ply surface first, be helpful or detrimental to the ditra installment?
HI ✋️is there a multi purpose adhesive for sticking down decoupling waterpoof membrane and also using stick down tiles onto😢 membrane? Using the same adhesive?
Is this something that can be directly installed on subfloor or do i need to add a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch particle board/ply wood on the subfloor bathroom?
Hi can I use Schluter Ditra under octagon ceramic mosaic tile
It’s only for subfloors if it’s a slab, pour south level to level your floor, then lay your tile with thin set
I am getting ready to tile my upstairs bath. The flooring is 2x6 tongue and groove. It previously had mortar and wire mesh. All has been removed and I have been told to put a layer of 1/4 hardy over thin set. I'm not sure I shouldn't put plywood instead. Most videos do not reference 2x6 subfloors.
If you use self leveling on your subfloor will this bond to it?
I've heard others say this as well, I've had a terrible time getting the mud to bond to the underside of the ditra. I ended up having to back butter the ditra to get a 100 bond. I first did everything by the directions and the first time I had near zero percent bond, it just pushed the thinset down into the shape of the individual cells of the membrane (ditra heat) I put the thinset down quick, and I put the maximum amount of water in the mix (according to the back). Not sure if the extra work is worth it vs how we did it for decades before.
That shouldn’t be the case, I highly recommend watching this video for more details on how to properly install DITRA ruclips.net/video/VQbEcXBnMoU/видео.html
its waterproof but would you want water just sitting there on that and not being able to dry? i like cement board keep it old school
My tile guy did 4 apartments for me 8 years ago with this and I've used it ever since. I've never had to go back and fix cracked tiles or grout. The floor was 16" centers, 16' span, 1/2" plywood with 3/4 mdf. I pulled up the 40 year old mdf and put down 3/4 plywood so my floor was 1.25" thick when he put the tile down. Other floors were just 3/4 plywood. Detra has always worked
I am about to tile my bathroom floors which are only 3/4" plywood over 16" spaced joists. Problem is that plywood has glue on it from previous vinyl. The glue is difficult to remove. (I had to remove the vinyl due to some repairs that needed to be made due to a leaking toilet.) Would it be advantageous to screw down another piece of floor to put the ditra down on or will the modified thinset stick to that 3/4" plywood in spite of the remnants of glue?
@@katc7765replace the plywood
4:41
@@katc7765Curious if you ever did this although it’s 6 years old, I have the same idea for mine now
Should you install the membrane over a wood subfloor partially covered with linoleum adhesive and backing?
Question: if I have a wood subfloor that is slightly out of level, should I put down a self leveling solution before adding thin-set for the Ditra??
I am doing my cabin bathroom with in floor heating and I have the Schluter Ditra mats (2x2). I noticed the mat you put down doesn't have the little "nubs" for the wiring to attach to, is this a different style for in floor heat set up? I do really like the way you described everything to be done and the voice over helped as well. Great video guys.
Also, recommend dampening the felt later underneath the Ditra before laying. This will help it bond to the thinset
It definitely won't.
The only reason you wet the substrate is to keep it from prematurely pulling moisture from the thinset. Wetting the plastic "fleece" isn't going to do anything except take extra time and labor.
Can thinset be used on a second floor, plywood. Or do you recommend a different product?
on wood plywood, wow. this is good because I already know how to install it on other kinds of plywood.
Use unmodified thin-set mortar meeting the requirements of ANSI A118 for bonding to plywood.
I personally believe gluing the Ditra rather then using thinset because plywood will soak up all the moisture before the thinset is fully effective. I've used glue and it worked great
+D Beaulieu are you referring to the Ardex adhesive? We've heard it works well. Schluter's ALL-SET is our preferred thin-set now since they formulated it for under and over DITRA
Yes I was and one reason why I really like it is, you don't have to mix it. Its all scoop and go. The second reason is, sometimes with thinset, if you kneel on it, the thinset moves around under your knees and you form mounds. The glue doesn't do that.
Im going to use Ditra for floor in my bathroom ,can you tell me please, what glu should I use ?
Thank you.
Helps to prewet the subfloor with a spray bottle like what he did
Clarifying question, because the terms subfloor is often misinterpreted. I have a 23/32 subfloor screwed directly to the floor joists. Will I be able to lay mortar, then Ditra, mortar, then tile directly onto my 23/32 subfloor or do I need an additional layer of plywood?
I have 3/4" plywood with linoleum over it. Want to tile over. Can I use the dirt over this existing linoleum??
absolutely NOT
Great video ! I'm getting ready to do my first tile floor in a whole bathroom remodel. This was a great video very good info. Any other tricks to install the detra that wasn't shown in the video
Can you apply DITRA over a surface covered by wallboard skimcoat?
When do you use the Kerdi versus Ditra? Also, for either do you use the kerdi band at all seams and against the wall?
DYI here. Completely redoing our 8x8 (not exact) hall bathroom. walls are dwn to the studs and just redid the plumbing to accommodate the new layout. New subfloor is 3/4" Advantech. It is not perfectly level (not terrible) and some joints are 1/8" higher/lower. Using 1/4" Ditra (16" off center joist). to accommodate the transition height. My question is. Does the subfloor need to be perfectly level and do the joint heights need to meet perfectly? Thank you. Great videos.
as long as the subfloor is flat and mostly level you should be fine. Under the tub or shower tray it needs to be level so the water will drain properly. You want the DITRA joints to meet evenly with each other. Otherwise the tile setting will be problematic
@@HomeRepairTutor ..Thank you for your time.
How long does it take thinset to dry
Thank you for a great video tutorial. Would you mind clarifying something for me please? The thinset recomend by the manufacturer to bond the membrane is modified or unmodified? Thank you so much. And please keep making more great videos.
Schluter recommends modified when setting Ditra over wood subfloors but you can use their ALL-SET both under and on top of Ditra and Ditra-Heat. Mix thin-set per their directions to get the right consistency, ensure 95-100% coverage to the fleece. Also, use the correct trowel and directional troweling to compress all the ridges.
Home Repair Tuto
From their FAQ : "The thin-set mortar used for bonding KERDI must be appropriate for the substrate, and it must penetrate and engage the KERDI fleece. Generally, Schluter-SET, Schluter-ALL-SET, Schluter-FAST-SET, or UNMODIFIED thin-set mortar is used."
But from this video (ruclips.net/video/wMzXu1NRMAM/видео.html), and from the installation instructions on the website it shows modified thinset below the membrane, unmodified above the membrane (below the tile) sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h7a/h5d/9019679637534/Uncoupling%20Data%20Sheet.pdf
@Joe Dirté use the DITRA trowel for bonding DITRA and the other trowel depends on your tile size, which is?
You must have ball bearings for knees
*******Question*******
I bought a roll to redo my guest bathroom and have a ton left over. Could I use this as underlayment for my kitchen floor laminate wood flooring??
My subfloor is layered tongue and groove 100 year old subfloor plus 3/8 ply we added to smooth it out. It totals at least 3/4, is this ok, or do you have to use 3/4 ply?
If floor joist spaces is 2 ft use ¾ ... And if less they say ½ minimum .. also depends on how big of area ... Also ditra has a handbook in each roll also can Google .. ditra handbook 2019 ..and scroll down and and it will show a picture and break down of your exact floor
How do you join the two sections? I never see that covered - seems like a failure point for leaks!
Hi. Thanks for the video. You answered in a previous question that this technique and product can be used on linoleum. Do you still use unmodified thinset?
The most important thing for professional installers is do the job fast and move on to the next job. They use this type of product for one reason only - it's fast and easy to apply. Cement board is more durable and less likely to flex with the sub-floor, but cement board is heavy and takes two to three times longer to install. Over time Ditra will break its bond with the sub-floor.
There's a separation layer to allow for movement that cement board does not. Prevents tiles from cracking. Especially when installing over concrete floor (which will crack and transfer crack to tile)
How the hell does it loose bond you need to try tearing some off once .. ditra has been around since 1975 if it was so bad I think ditra would have died
With the ditra, thinset and tile what’s the final thickness you achieve ? Trying to match thickness or 3/4 engineer flooring with no transition piece
Thanks Jeff but just a quick observation you say 1/4 of an inch reveal but in the vide your caption says 3/4 inch reveal.
Quick question: If you have to leave a 1/4" gap from the wall to allow for expansion and contraction, why are the seams butted against each other? Why is there no gap for expansion and contraction between sheets?
Uncoupling is your answer ..the Gap is for tile more than anything else
Would this work in a modern 1 year old mobile home with 2x8 joist 16 inch on center with 2 layers of 3/4 inch tongue and groove treated plywood subfloor?
I always got full cover very easy when I apply underlayment sealer over the plywood before thin set and Ditra, let me know is it the right way doing it or not but seem working fine, no call back.
I am laying down 24x24 italian porcelain tile. The mortar for this is for heavier tiles, can I use the same mortar for tile to unite the ditre to the 3/4 plywood?
Is it a no go to apply the thin set onto a painted substrate? I had a small mold issue and put a coat of a special mold control paint where I had cleaned it up
Thanks for the video, do I have to screw the ditra for more fastening?
To be honest if you have toilet overflow that membrane wont help that much you will see water downstairs.But protecting from tile cracks will work just perfectly
Can the Ditra be put over viny floor if the vinyl is down solid.
What if I'm applying that to Wood slatted 3/4 inch subfloor or does it need some sort of Luan down 1st
Hopefully you've already figured out that yes, you do. I put down 1/2" to beef up the substrate and allow that to be the sacrificial layer for when the next homeowner wants to remodel, and the house's sub-floor can be left alone, integral and not chawed by mortar that either won't come up, or takes chunks with it.
Two questions:
I have screw holes in my plywood from old particleboard that was installed over my subfloor should I fill those holes with wood filler/kwikwood or something before I put the thinset on?
I also have some places where the plywood is chipped and dented, how should I level it?
If I am removing my linoleum and laying this over the wood sub floor, do I need to remove ALL of the old glue used to install the original linoleum? Or is there an “acceptable percentage?”
You could try a belt sander to remove as much as possible but the risk is creating low spots in the wood. Another option is to lay down 1/4" plywood or another wood veneer layer to cover the glue. A third (of many possible) options is do what I do: experiment. Over the years I've learned a lot by trying things, and taking note of what works. The risk of leaving a bit of old glue seems like a small risk. The label of the product would warn about it, and you can read the label by looking up the product on Amazon and hovering the computer mouse over the container label.
If your subfloor is not level should I get it level first before installing the Schluter?
If I have 4 inch wide angled boards as sub floor do I need to put another layer of plywood before the ditra
What brand thinset did y'all use for the ditra to the plywood I know you said modified but what brand was it.
+Alberto Lira we used Mapei's Kerabond with Keralastic instead of water. But we recommend using Schluter ALL-SET with DITRA
@@HomeRepairTutor what do you recommend for bonding the tile to the ditra? Thanks!
Do you need this if tiling on concrete if there's underfloor heating
Some type of uncoupling membrane is good, to prevent tile cracking
Hi great video. I have a bathroom that is half plywood and the other half is self leveling mix. What type of thinset do you prefer to apply to both sub floors?
Use modified
What happens if the membrame only conects for 60-80% and leave it like that?
I wonder if the direction of the Ditra matters in a bathroom? Is it better to lay it with the joints in certain direction?
thanks for the video. couldn't tell if you left the 1/4 expansion gap when you installed but the second video shows it clearly.
Yes, that expansion gap is very important. Thanks for asking
Would you recommend removing the primer overspray from the subfloor before applying the thin set?
So after I finish prepping the floor with all the steps shown in the video, what mortar would I use to put bigger porcelain tiles on the floor? Modified or unmodified?
I understand that OSB needs to be primed before placing Strata Mat or Ditra because the moisture in the thinset will swell the OSB. What type of primer" Kilz type or something else?
Do not use anything less than plywood. OSB will not tolerate water like plywood or real wood or concrete.
To see this, cut a small square of plywood and a small square of OSB (or MDF or particle board or etc) and immerse them in water. Let stand overnight.
Next day take them out of the water. Let them dry out for 12 to 24 hours.
Then you'll know why not to use OSB - I bring this up because the entire point is water proofing, and using a wood product like OSB that is much worse under water exposure (compared to plywood) is just not rational.
Repetitive water exposure with OSB is a real bummer.
Plywood can handle repeated water exposure much better.
Durability
OSB and plywood vary in terms of durability. OSB absorbs water more slowly than plywood, which can be beneficial in areas of low dampness. However, once it has absorbed water, it dries more slowly. It also warps or swells after water absorption and will not return to its original shape.
Plywood absorbs water more quickly, but it also dries more quickly. When it dries, it is more likely to return to its regular shape. Plywood’s edges also resist damage better than OSB, which can crack and fray upon impact and over time.
@@Greg_Chase Hi Greg. Thank you for this information. I totally agree with you about OSB and water. The issue is that we purchased an 18-year-old home. We ripped out all 4000 sf of flooring and learned that the subfloor throughout the home is OSB (commonly used subfloor material in our area). We aren't going to replace the subfloor since it's in great condition. We have to work with what we've got. Since asking this question, I've learned that any holes in the subfloor from nails or whatever should be filled with 100% silicone. Then the entire OSB subfloor in the master bathroom and adjoining closet can be sealed (primed) with LevelQuik Concrete Bonding Latex Primer (appropriate for OSB). This prepares the OSB to adhere to the cementitious thinset that will bind the Ditra heat mat to the OSB. I have the LevelQuik in hand and am ready to move forward. Onward to the next step and, I'm sure, more questions.
@@mimihealy5046 Understood - my point was only where there is water, not the whole house. Just the bathroom. You have 4000sqft of OSB which is fine, and in the bathroom, you can elect to replace it with plywood. The rest of the house except kitchen and bath have near-zero water exposure. The bathroom(s) have daily water exposure.
We've owned and operated rentals since 1993 and when we find ourselves removing old flooring, if a sub-standard (for wet areas like bathrooms) subfloor is discovered, we either:
1) replace it with something better
2) go over the top with something better
The reason being, if we go to the trouble of putting down new tile in a bathroom, we reduce to an absolute minimum the chance of moisture in the subfloor just ruining the tile job.
We try for an 'industrial-strength' approach to minimizing the risk of floor warping in the kitchen and bath.
Great video. My question is, do I need to lay ditra down if I'm laying tile in a kitchen that has a wood subfloor? Thanks for the great video.
Erik
That would be very wise!
It's one of those things...it's kind of like insurance to prevent the new expensive floor from mechanically failing. However...in my first 2006 new-construction house that was built with crappy NJ builder grade short cuts, all the tile was installed rather quickly over a secondary plywood substrate floor. In the 13 years we were there, the tile never failed, despite being Home Depot grade tile and installed rather hastily. We sold the place before doing any flooring upgrades, but there was nothing technically failing on those tile floors.
Likewise my parents now have a 30 year old tile kitchen floor over the original 70s linoleum...and it too has no mechanical failures.
This product in my limited opinion solves a problem which probably wasn't much of a problem to begin with, but it caught on as building science became more of a thing and marketing for the sake of selling everything went onto an exponential curve. It just allows bad tilers to work even faster and mask shoddy work, although it does allow for use of bigger tiles with an almost guaranteed chance of success. And when it's time for yet another floor, now you have about another 1-2 days worth of rip out and grinding involved.
Shutler all set works great
Hi there great video thanks but can use this straight onto 20mm floor boards with a hoist spacing of 16inches
Goggle ditra handbook 2019 scroll down you will find your answers
Yep... you're good. 20mm is slightly greater than the specified minimum 3/4" (19mm) requirement
I always remove any nails sticking up and replace them with the appropriate size screw. OCD? Maybe....
if the subfloor is tong and grove 3/4" material will this require any different prep say for nots or cracks in the subfloor its self
Can you use Ditra over a newly installed hardie backer board for shower or areas of water plumbing? Is this too much of a over kill or ok to do? Or possible to do? Or will this harm anything
Remember that Hardibacker is not waterproof. Many mistakenly think that Hardibacker is all you need. You should use the Schlüter System product known as Kerdi waterproofing membrane and affix it with thin set, and their Kerdi-band overlapping 2”. If you already did not have the Hardibacker up you could have simply used the Kerdi-Board, and glue it to the studs.
Thanks for the video. Can the Ditra be laid straight onto 5 inch floor boards or would you recommend putting sheet plywood down first? The boards are 1 inch thick and laid on 16 inch centre joists.
I dont want too much of a raised bathroom floor at the door threshold so if I can get away without using ply then so much the better. Cheers
Did you u ever find out?
Needs to have 1/2” plywood or osb added to the top of floor boards
What size trowel? You never said the trowel notch size
Can u out mating over the woodplanks
Would this installation method work of an oriented strandboard subfloor as well as the plywood?
Hi, the ditra install manual says the plywood can be 19/32 minimum thickness. You say 3/4 in the video. If you have 19/32 sub floor would you recommend putting ditra over it?
19/32" is about 5/8" and that is too thin for a subfloor. Even if you're not putting tile down, the 'give' of that thin plywood over time would be noticeable.
Right now I'm redoing a bathroom floor that has 5/8" (aka 19/32") plywood subfloor. The 'give' in that thickness of plywood ended up, over the years, creating so many cracks in the tile, it was incredible.
I am laying down another 3/8" layer of plywood on top of the existing 5/8" subfloor. There will be a minor transition step-up into the bathroom after the finish flooring material (glue-down vinyl planks) is installed but I'm okay with that. Another option was to lay down a 1/4" plywood 2nd layer and have no transition, but the 'give' in that 5/8" subloor floor was enough to make me want to beef it up using the 3/8" instead of the 1/4".
The 'give' in any flooring makes it feel real cheap.
Ok so I didn’t put a layer of thinset down before I started troweling..how much of an effect will this have on this? I cleaned the plywood floor very well with a sponge before applying
Howd it go?
I have 3/4 subfloor on 16 on center joists. The 2x10 joists have valleys and crowns that cause the subfloor to hump and valley. My plan is to put sand down the high points first. Then apply a 1/2 overlayment layer of plywood to stiffen the subfloor for large format tile. What should I use to flatten the subfloor before I install the Schluter Ditra? Can I use a thin set morter and scree it flat or should I use a self leveling compound on top?
You could use a self-leveler to help with the peaks and valleys, Ardex makes a good one. You're correct to get a level floor before the DITRA
My bathroom has been completely gutted. Can I lay Ditra under my bathtub?
You can but it’s not totally necessary
Home Repair Tutor im doing my bathroom soon and im useing small tiles that are 3x3 inches do you have any videos for that kind of insulation
What if you want to install porcelain tile into connecting rooms. Their is 3/4 plywood in first room and tongue &groove oak in second room. Both are flush.
Hi, would this also be suitable for a walk in shower wooden floor base?
Can I use this product over finished wood floor, in front of the fireplace , and then tiling over ???
Schluter’s Handbook has several installation methods but none for traditional hardwood flooring.
Can you use Schluter®-DITRA over a hydronic floor system that includes 1/2" wood system, (Viega) with pex tubing grooves?
Should I use OSB or CDX plywood for my sub floor under my kerdi shower LS?
Hey Jim, CDX but that's just my opinion
Wait, first you tell us to stay at least a 1/4" away from the wall and tub. Then, you apply thinset right up to the wall. I am lost. What happened to that buffer zone?
The 1/4" "buffer zone" he is talking about is for expansion and contraction of the floor. When the floor moves and it will, the ditra then will not hit the wall and buckle up a tile or crack a grout line. The thin set he applies in between the ditra and the wall does not interfere with that expansion joint, it actually just helps fill that void the wall and subfloor creates, making it "water proof".
Hope that helps!
Question, have you installed DITRA over a pine board subfloor, with gaps?
What happened to the 1 inch distance from the wall and the bathtub? You shoved it all under the drywall and bathtub
when do you level surface? before Ditra or after adhering Ditra. I will be using self leveling compound...
level the floor first then install DITRA or DITRA-HEAT
@@HomeRepairTutor thank you
I will be installing tile floor in a 1926 home with diagonal laid 1 x 6 boards for the sub floor. Can I use Ditra in this installation without anything additional to the subfloor?
Good question, Ditra’s handbook covers that. I believe they recommend 3/4” plywood over the existing boards. Then you apply Ditra using modified thin-set mortar or Schluter All-Set
John I’m in a 1925 home with the same plank subfloor. You need to place plywood or OSB over the planks before using Ditra. The Ditra instructions clearly show this example in the illustrations. You can find it one their website.
should ditra be installed if doing floating floors
Tape edge of bath to protect? Only takes 5 minutes
Great video! Thanks a lot for posting you guys, I’m doin this step tonight!
sweet, let us know if you have any questions
Would this be a overkill for a small entrance foyer?
Can I put LVP over this product?
So how much do you charge to install the ditra square foot?
Hi, may i ask please what powder glue you have used for fixing ditra. thanks
I hate to add something critical but always wet your floor a bit before laying thinset down. Helps the bonding.
did you watch the video? They did this.
@@jonathansoper3631 My bad. Curious if adding the comment "did you watch the video?" was something you thought would be "nice" or helpful?
Is this also meant for hardwood floors over plywood, or is this overkill?
Good video, I am doing my basement bathroom. I am planning to have dmx on concrete floor then 5/8 osb on top dmx underlayment to make the subfloor. Here I have 2 questions:
1. Do I need to use self-leveller on concrete first or over the OSB?
2. Can I just put the tiles over osb not using the This Ditra?
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Can you use ditra under 12” marble tiles? On a wood subfloor? What is a standard subfloor for marble and natural stone like travertine? This is for three bathrooms. Thank you!
Concrete yes .. wood subfloor requires 2 layers ¾ whenever you use natural Stone
Hi mate. Awesome video. If I have wooden floorboards, do I need to apply 5mm ply Screwed down before putting the Ditra matting?