Great tutorial on installation-I'm going to be putting this down for my basement bathroom floor. A couple things on the electrical make-up at the box: Since this is 240V, the white wire from the Romex cable should be re-identified as hot using black electrical tape. Also, the ground wires should be spliced with the equipment ground back to the panel, and bonded to the box. You can use a pigtail wire to the ground terminal in the box, or leave the ground wire from the Romex long enough to wrap the ground screw, and then pigtail with the rest. This bonds everything to the metal box and piping.
Love the tutorial! It was very detailed with nothing extra that wasn't needed. This gives me the confidence to install the Ditra-heat system in my master bathroom when I remodel.
it is .! bt plywood need to be level . in the bay area houses are so old that we have no choose bt to float then i use this ditra over the float & come out great . if the customers wanna pay , cause it gets pricy haha
Very good tutorials. Here I came again just to let you know that I called Schluter , as you told me so, and yes, just like you said, they were very kind and answered all my questions.
Thanks Jeff! Doing 10 of these in one house next month 😳😳😳 gonna be exciting, first time doing it. Customer wants only schluter products, glad I found your video. Hope all is well
This is a great tutorial, thanks for producing it. I'm currently in the process of installing Ditra Heat in a hallway and bathroom and this has been very useful in helping me avoid the obvious pitfalls.
At around 23:00 your electrical guy calls the ohm reading on the meter "zero". When I look at the image, I'm not seeing a zero there but "OL", for "overload". That's what the meter shows if it cannot give a meaningful number. If the number of ohms was zero that'd be a short, and that would be a failed test. You want to see "OL" for that test, which means the resistance is so great that the meter cannot give a number for it.
OL stands for Open Loop, meaning there is no circuit completion of electricity, which is ideal to see. It is like holding the probes in free air. If measuring voltage and you possibly go over a selected range or meters maximum you could get an OL for overload because what you are measuring exceeds the limits. My meter will show O.L versus OL in resistance
In general, OL on a measuring device stands for "overload" which means you are beyond the range of what the device can measure. It may happen to correlate to an open loop, but not necessarily. I have multiple digital meters here (ranging from Flukes to super-cheap devices). Their literature all explain OL as "overload", not "open loop".
Hey Jeff, Love your videos for the simplicity and wisdom. You simplify even the difficult. That said, I'll have to try and give a little constructive criticism of your partner. He tends to get off topic, or over explain some things. I believe it takes away from the simplicity you have become known for. It also makes the videos much longer than needed. Again, taking away a hallmark of yours, short and to the point. I hope this helps as intended, to make your channel even better! Appreciate all your hard work, and advice! Mark
Great Install tutorial! Will be laying mine tomorrow. My only issue I have with this is the suggestion of wiring 2 heater cables in parallel to a single thermostat! Stop and think this through for 30 seconds. You have a 300 and a 100 ohm cables... current flow will split at the junction into 25/75%.... the shorter cable will heat up much faster than the longer cable. Next where do you put the single sensor? If its in the smaller area with the shorter cable, the larger area will never get up to the set temperature... if the sensor is placed in the larger area.. you run the risk of burning out the shorter cable. I guess Schluter forgot to mention on their FAQ that you can only connect 2 hating cables in parallel IF they are of similar resistance.
Great video but i have one question should I test that it actually heats and that the whole system works before installing the tile? I ask because there no power in the house and there wont be for about another month!! So should i wait until we have power to install the ditra cable and test it and after that install the tile or should I install everything before?? Thank you and again great video
Question on bonding the ditra to the subfloor. I had to paint over the subfloor due to a small amount of mold, which I thoroughly cleaned the best I could & used mold barrier paint over that, curious if applying thinset to that would compromise bonding & cause issues? Would it be better to apply a quarter inch sheet of floor overtop for a better bond? Thank you
Excellent video, thanks so much for making it, and really enjoying the detail of instructions provided, and you answered my query of what to do round the edges where I'm not putting heating, and how to level up the floor between merely tile area and underfloor heating areas, so now have to buy some more matting to go all round the edges...Baffled though about why I need to do a mini dogleg in the wires if over 10 feet? (my new kitchen extension is 12 x 14 ft) I'm not going all the way to the sides, but had planned to do the whole length, so please explain why the little dogleg?
Is it possible to extend a continuous run of this to another room and tie it all into a single circuit and thermostat? I'm renovating my home room by room and would love to have radiant heat throughout the house.
Love your video. I have a question concerning the splice going to the thermostat. You chiseled out a space so that the splice would be below or at level. I have a concrete floor and am using ditraheat-tb . Will there be enough room for the splice to sit without having to chisel out the concrete? I am laying tile on top of the ditraheat-tb. Should I be concerned ? Thanks
So I placed my floor sensors in the matt. I saw you don't have excess cable. Do you cut your sensor cable to length or do you hide it in that wall. I used up my excess sensor wire in the studs of the ditra matt.
Try using Calorique heating matts eliminates so much extra work from using wire solution. Calorique has a tile heat solution that uses a self stick matt that you lay down first then put thin set and tile without doing twice the work for radiant heating. Save on labor and save time with Calorique. Also the matt is 0.0016" thick so its like putting paper down and doesn't raise the floor height which is very important and additional labor savings.
Thank you, awesome video! Unimportant for how to install this, but just want to inform that there is definitely a difference between hot and neutral. Your neutral wires are grounded inside the main electrical panel; meaning that there is no potential difference between neutral and ground (basically zero volts on neutral). If you were to switch a neutral wire on a light switch instead of the hot, or hook up something backwards, the device could appear to be off because there is not a complete electrical path but would still have 120V at the device. This could prove very dangerous!
Just put some of this in today well put it in yesterday and put the heating element on today 1st time using it it's really easy compared to the other ways oh putting a heated floor down
Question: When installing, how to transition from the ditra heat and tile to a carpeted room? Is the transition strip placed under the ditra heat or just under the tile? If the carpet is below the system, is a ramp needed for the carpet?
@@allenhayes5535 great questions. Normally I cap the time with Schluter metal profiles like Schiene. They make RENO-V which is also a Schluter profile that has a flap that goes over carpet.
Great video! Question - after your thermostat is all wired up, wouldn't you want to actually power it up and see if the heat wires start to get warm? Obviously you wouldn't let them get very hot, but I plan to do that when I install my system.
I mounted the electrical box at 51 inches off the floor and there was plenty of cable to get the cold leaf to the floor. Yes, the instructions say to use conduit.
Thanks for your video. I want to make a back porch into a bathroom with heated flooring.Will the heated flooring help keep the water hoses underneath that is unheated from freezing ?
It Is a 240v cable. The wall control panel accepts 120v or 240v. 120v is fed by one hot leg @120v on L1 and neutral on Ln . 240v has 2 x 120v legs on L1 and Ln. 240v does not have a neutral. This all assumes you are in the USA. 240V does not heat faster, The main reason to use 240v is for more coverage because it can provide more overall wattage (amps x volts = watts). See the Schluter Ditra install guide and it spells it all out.
Thanks for the vid! Looking at doing this to our bathroom next year, so if your a diy’er, are you able to attain a full warranty if you test and record the electric values at the time of installation? Also the vids I’ve seen on your products so far are on total construction, I’m looking at doing it on an existing bathroom with cabinets, tube and shower currently installed, only looking to do the walkways in the room, I’m assuming it’s just as doable as new construction? Thanks.
If your just going to install LVP over the top do you really need to bond it to the wood floor? Also I can’t find Kersbond locally, what else can be used?
I see that you are using 2 different rolls, would you not have to install a power module to allow both wires to work off of the one thermostat? Great video, Thank you for sharing.
that's exactly what I was puzzled with. With this parallel connection, the shorter roll (less ohms) will suck more electric current than the longer roll (higher ohms). This will result in unbalanced floor heating throughout the rooms where the area above the shorter roll feels a lot warmer.
We’re installing on a concrete slab and intend to use large format tiles. Or slab is very close to level, but has some slight gradation changes. At what point should you put a layer of self leveling concrete over the slab?
You mentioned thin set, we just layed our detra wire, and are doing hex mosaics, we are planning on doing thin set on top of the wire and then the mosaic, is that what you do?
Schluter says 5/8” is ok in Canada. Just install blocking 12” all over the place and glue it down. Schluter has a screw pattern they want you to follow also. 6” apart on all joists and blocking in the field and 3” apart all around the edges.
Thank you for the informative video. I am about to install Ditra heated flooring in my bathroom. However, I have 12” wide wood planks for my subfloor. The builder of my home also drilled 2” holes in the subfloor to blow cellulose between the second and first floor. How important that 100% adhesion occur between the mat and the subfloor? Do you recommend laying concrete board down or re-sub-flooring my bathroom? Thank you again!
A question please. I have a kitchen with a quarry tiled floor on dirt (good condition, no rising damp, do not want to dig up), want to use Ditra with under floor heating and with the eventual vinyl or click vinyl on top (can withstand underfloor heating). What do you recommend please? Thank you.
Hi guys great video, I was hoping to see what you did where two mats join. Do you seal the joints with a kerdi band strip before tiling like with the usual ditra mat? And is the ditra heat mat on a par with the usual mat for waterproofing?
It looks like you wired the two heating cables in parallel. Will this cause one section to heat more than the other? You want the same current flowing through the cables to get there same Watts/foot of cable and that means the two sections should be in series. Thanks for the video.
It's the opposite, in series the 240 volt wires would be brought down to 120 volts because series circuits halve the total voltage and raise the amperage. In parallel both wires receive 240 equally distributed. Also if one wire would fail both of them would be off, just like the old type christmas tree lights when one bulb failed the whole set went out.
We have one that the temperature on the thermostat reads 92°, which is off about 13 degrees from actual floor temperature. Any way to calibrate reading?
@Striper Seeker Well... the RV is a 50 amp.... has 2 A/C so I think it might handle it... The area is small... 7'6"' x 15' area for the whole floor plan... This is like a large bedroom.... Right??? Even though the RV is 8' x 30' outside dimensions....
Can you install the sheets over concrete that has been stained with a solid color stain but not sealed. I read that thinset will not stick to the concrete when putting tiles directly on it. But is that a problem with the sheets?
This is a very good video how ever 120 volt is blk / wht , 240 volt is blk / red I say this because a future tech could see this as possible 120 volt thus creating possible danger , so RED taping your neutral white is a good standard practice in the case of 230 - 240 volts
There is one case in which a white may be used to carry ungrounded potential that is still in conformity with the most recent cycle of the NEC. That is when a cable is used to feed a straight 240V load. Besides that if someone is even a tad bit unsure of what they are doing around electric they should stay away from it and call someone who is. The color of the wire isn't going to save your life.
Hey, markyruss and Home Repair Tutor I'm starting to look at different products from Lowes and Home Depot to install in a 5 X 7 existing bathroom with a ceramic tile floor, any recommendations other than this product?
Hi, quick question, is the insulation board no needed with the Ditra-Heat? I'm about to install underfloor heating in the living room and hallway and just wondering if I need to install first the insulation backer board and then, the Ditra-Heat? Many thanks.
Noticed the Electrician mentioned this is a 240v system. Is that a requirement to install this heating system? What is confusing is that he also mentions the thermostat can do both 110 and 240. Does DITRA require 240 or 110v?
Pardon I meant 120v not 110v. Or does it depend on room size and cable length? Or is because you are using two cables to do this particular room? UGH.. questions..
I will answer: use modified thinset over wood under membrane, and unmodified over membrane under tile. But there is a massive discrepancy which adds to confusion in the Schluter installation guide which states "unmodified thinset mortar - ANSI 118.1" as approved setting material over OSB or plywood floor. So the real answer is unmodified is allowed everywhere.
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Always a pleasure to watch a professional do what he knows ! Thank you.
Thank you, appreciate the kind words
Great tutorial on installation-I'm going to be putting this down for my basement bathroom floor. A couple things on the electrical make-up at the box: Since this is 240V, the white wire from the Romex cable should be re-identified as hot using black electrical tape. Also, the ground wires should be spliced with the equipment ground back to the panel, and bonded to the box. You can use a pigtail wire to the ground terminal in the box, or leave the ground wire from the Romex long enough to wrap the ground screw, and then pigtail with the rest. This bonds everything to the metal box and piping.
Excellent video guys! Thanks for putting this detailed tutorial together.
Love the tutorial! It was very detailed with nothing extra that wasn't needed. This gives me the confidence to install the Ditra-heat system in my master bathroom when I remodel.
Ditra heat is a great product, makes installing a heated floor so much easier, good job on the video.
+Sal DiBlasi thanks buddy, it's a great system.
it is .! bt plywood need to be level . in the bay area houses are so old that we have no choose bt to float then i use this ditra over the float & come out great . if the customers wanna pay , cause it gets pricy haha
Sal DiBlasi
he should've clean all of the remaining thin set off the ditra-heat mat like you do it Sal, otherwise he did a good job.
Why must it be test?? I mean...isn't it tested at the factory? seems redundant.
I'm not sure who does nicer work, Sal or you guys!
always know who's a pro by how they trowel that thinset on lol! Thanks for the great video.
Very good tutorials. Here I came again just to let you know that I called Schluter , as you told me so, and yes, just like you said, they were very kind and answered all my questions.
Awesome, do you feel reassured that your electrical setup is good to go?
Home Repair Tutor .... Definitely yes. Even though,they told me their system supports both 120-240
Your floor will be toasty, just be sure to test everything before, during, and after the installation 👍🏻
Dude. This is such a gift. Thanks for making this video
Thanks Jeff! Doing 10 of these in one house next month 😳😳😳 gonna be exciting, first time doing it. Customer wants only schluter products, glad I found your video. Hope all is well
Thanks for the detail! That is pretty slick how the heating wire snaps in...
This is a great tutorial, thanks for producing it. I'm currently in the process of installing Ditra Heat in a hallway and bathroom and this has been very useful in helping me avoid the obvious pitfalls.
Ok pol
I’m curious, were you hable to do the installation by yourself? The electrical part looks very complicated.
Wow New channel bro, great job ❤
At around 23:00 your electrical guy calls the ohm reading on the meter "zero". When I look at the image, I'm not seeing a zero there but "OL", for "overload". That's what the meter shows if it cannot give a meaningful number. If the number of ohms was zero that'd be a short, and that would be a failed test. You want to see "OL" for that test, which means the resistance is so great that the meter cannot give a number for it.
Thanks for asking, the main point is the wires passed the test before, during, and after installation
OL stands for Open Loop, meaning there is no circuit completion of electricity, which is ideal to see. It is like holding the probes in free air. If measuring voltage and you possibly go over a selected range or meters maximum you could get an OL for overload because what you are measuring exceeds the limits. My meter will show O.L versus OL in resistance
In general, OL on a measuring device stands for "overload" which means you are beyond the range of what the device can measure. It may happen to correlate to an open loop, but not necessarily. I have multiple digital meters here (ranging from Flukes to super-cheap devices). Their literature all explain OL as "overload", not "open loop".
It means open line - not overload on multimeters
Hey Jeff,
Love your videos for the simplicity and wisdom. You simplify even the difficult. That said, I'll have to try and give a little constructive criticism of your partner. He tends to get off topic, or over explain some things. I believe it takes away from the simplicity you have become known for. It also makes the videos much longer than needed. Again, taking away a hallmark of yours, short and to the point. I hope this helps as intended, to make your channel even better! Appreciate all your hard work, and advice! Mark
Thank you Mark, I always appreciate constructive criticism because it makes the videos better - I really appreciate your kindness and feedback 🙏🏼🔥
nice to see how this works. builders are installing this week. 🥳
Can you install a good quality vinyl plank floor on this or does it have to be something solid like a ceramic tile?
most vinyl has a warning on it IF it can NOT be used over in floor heating, check your product
Hi, thanks for posting the video. I have a question please… can you lay laminate or wood onto this wire? Thanks
Excellent video. Between the installation manual and this video, installation is completely explained.
Thanks Rc
Great Install tutorial! Will be laying mine tomorrow.
My only issue I have with this is the suggestion of wiring 2 heater cables in parallel to a single thermostat! Stop and think this through for 30 seconds. You have a 300 and a 100 ohm cables... current flow will split at the junction into 25/75%.... the shorter cable will heat up much faster than the longer cable. Next where do you put the single sensor? If its in the smaller area with the shorter cable, the larger area will never get up to the set temperature... if the sensor is placed in the larger area.. you run the risk of burning out the shorter cable. I guess Schluter forgot to mention on their FAQ that you can only connect 2 hating cables in parallel IF they are of similar resistance.
So great, thank you. Especially al the electrical walk thru. I am about to go install mine now!
let us know if you have any questions, always happy to help
Thanks for the tutorial
What about the wet areas? What happens if the floors keep holding water?
Superb video. Thank you so much for all of your expertise.
Great video but i have one question should I test that it actually heats and that the whole system works before installing the tile? I ask because there no power in the house and there wont be for about another month!! So should i wait until we have power to install the ditra cable and test it and after that install the tile or should I install everything before?? Thank you and again great video
Great job, great explanation, thx a lot !
Using the system that has capability for vinyl fooor covering, is thinset or leveler required over the mat? Thank you
36:28 just one jog a 10ft.... or do you have to do a couple?... an how far spaced apart? 🤔
Question on bonding the ditra to the subfloor. I had to paint over the subfloor due to a small amount of mold, which I thoroughly cleaned the best I could & used mold barrier paint over that, curious if applying thinset to that would compromise bonding & cause issues? Would it be better to apply a quarter inch sheet of floor overtop for a better bond? Thank you
Great video. Then you simply tile right on top, correct?
Edit....disregard found part 2, lol and watching now!! You rock!
Excellent video, thanks so much for making it, and really enjoying the detail of instructions provided, and you answered my query of what to do round the edges where I'm not putting heating, and how to level up the floor between merely tile area and underfloor heating areas, so now have to buy some more matting to go all round the edges...Baffled though about why I need to do a mini dogleg in the wires if over 10 feet? (my new kitchen extension is 12 x 14 ft) I'm not going all the way to the sides, but had planned to do the whole length, so please explain why the little dogleg?
Is it possible to extend a continuous run of this to another room and tie it all into a single circuit and thermostat? I'm renovating my home room by room and would love to have radiant heat throughout the house.
Great job. Is it possible to waterproof the seams using Kerdi tape on Ditra-heat like you guys did with regular Ditra in another video?
If I have a shower area and the main bathroom floor on separate cables. Do I just double up the cable on the thermostat?
Love your video. I have a question concerning the splice going to the thermostat. You chiseled out a space so that the splice would be below or at level. I have a concrete floor and am using ditraheat-tb . Will there be enough room for the splice to sit without having to chisel out the concrete? I am laying tile on top of the ditraheat-tb. Should I be concerned ? Thanks
Hi, I didnt understand what wire gauge have you used to power up the thermostad 12/2 or 10/2? thanks a lot
Beautiful demonstration
do you need some sort of primer between osb and the modified thinset? worried about moisture loss to osb
Hi! Do I need to use diferent testers?
So I placed my floor sensors in the matt. I saw you don't have excess cable. Do you cut your sensor cable to length or do you hide it in that wall. I used up my excess sensor wire in the studs of the ditra matt.
Try using Calorique heating matts eliminates so much extra work from using wire solution. Calorique has a tile heat solution that uses a self stick matt that you lay down first then put thin set and tile without doing twice the work for radiant heating. Save on labor and save time with Calorique. Also the matt is 0.0016" thick so its like putting paper down and doesn't raise the floor height which is very important and additional labor savings.
Thank you, awesome video! Unimportant for how to install this, but just want to inform that there is definitely a difference between hot and neutral. Your neutral wires are grounded inside the main electrical panel; meaning that there is no potential difference between neutral and ground (basically zero volts on neutral). If you were to switch a neutral wire on a light switch instead of the hot, or hook up something backwards, the device could appear to be off because there is not a complete electrical path but would still have 120V at the device. This could prove very dangerous!
At 42:28 you mention fishing the wire through conduit. What conduit?
Y’all rock! This video and the Kerdi shower kit installation videos have been a huge help!!!
Just put some of this in today well put it in yesterday and put the heating element on today 1st time using it it's really easy compared to the other ways oh putting a heated floor down
Really appreciate 🎉best video ever ❤
Great explanation and installation, answered a lot of questions.
Thanks for the great video! Any reason not to use schluter allset? I really like it and would love to hear why you like Mapai better. Thanks!
Can you install the DITRA-HEAT in a garage . What is the weight/load capacity for DITRA-HEAT system if I am planning to install in a garage. ?
Question: When installing, how to transition from the ditra heat and tile to a carpeted room? Is the transition strip placed under the ditra heat or just under the tile? If the carpet is below the system, is a ramp needed for the carpet?
@@allenhayes5535 great questions. Normally I cap the time with Schluter metal profiles like Schiene. They make RENO-V which is also a Schluter profile that has a flap that goes over carpet.
@@HomeRepairTutor I saw the reno-v. Do I apply it on top of the ditra membrane or underneath while installing the ditra?
@ it goes underneath the tile then folds over the carpet of the carpet is lower than the tile
@@HomeRepairTutor Thanks so much! First time using the ditra. You guys put on great tutorials!
@ thank you 🙏 keep in mind, they now have DITRA PS with is new and doesn’t need mortar. It could be a great option for you
Great video! Question - after your thermostat is all wired up, wouldn't you want to actually power it up and see if the heat wires start to get warm? Obviously you wouldn't let them get very hot, but I plan to do that when I install my system.
you want to test wires three times. Once before installation, once after installation, and finally once after setting tile
how long are the wires to the thermostat, and do you need run it thru conduit?
I mounted the electrical box at 51 inches off the floor and there was plenty of cable to get the cold leaf to the floor. Yes, the instructions say to use conduit.
Dry fit the ditra before u put it down. makes a much cleaner and quicker install.
Thanks for your video. I want to make a back porch into a bathroom with heated flooring.Will the heated flooring help keep the water hoses underneath that is unheated from freezing ?
You can thinset over OSB?
The 120v heating cable was connected to a 240V supply. Is that going to short or at least heat much faster than the long (240v wire)?
It Is a 240v cable. The wall control panel accepts 120v or 240v. 120v is fed by one hot leg @120v on L1 and neutral on Ln . 240v has 2 x 120v legs on L1 and Ln. 240v does not have a neutral. This all assumes you are in the USA. 240V does not heat faster, The main reason to use 240v is for more coverage because it can provide more overall wattage (amps x volts = watts). See the Schluter Ditra install guide and it spells it all out.
Great video - what do you do with all the extra cold lead wire?
can this be installed in the walls of a bathroom under tile?
Thanks for the vid!
Looking at doing this to our bathroom next year, so if your a diy’er, are you able to attain a full warranty if you test and record the electric values at the time of installation?
Also the vids I’ve seen on your products so far are on total construction, I’m looking at doing it on an existing bathroom with cabinets, tube and shower currently installed, only looking to do the walkways in the room, I’m assuming it’s just as doable as new construction?
Thanks.
I suspect it is an expansion joint for the resistive cable, as it expands (lengthens) when it is running.
If your just going to install LVP over the top do you really need to bond it to the wood floor? Also I can’t find Kersbond locally, what else can be used?
Why not use the schluter thinset mortar? Does not using their product void the warranty or gaurantee?
Love the tutorial. Very clear. But what if the heating cable got accidentally cut, How do you mend it?
The heating cable is designed to never be cut and cannot be safely repaired. If cut, the entire cable needs to be replaced.
Schluter now offers a repair kit
So was that floor waterproof? What about around the perimeter and where two pieces of kerdi meet
What if the wire were run in a groove in cut into plyboard? Would there be an issue with thermal conductivity?
Are all the wires going in the same conduit?
Would u please tell us why it’s not good to have wire run straight for more than 10 feet?
you’d have to ask Schluter but it’s in the directions for DITRA-HEAT
How much the system cost ?? Great video
I see that you are using 2 different rolls, would you not have to install a power module to allow both wires to work off of the one thermostat? Great video, Thank you for sharing.
that's exactly what I was puzzled with. With this parallel connection, the shorter roll (less ohms) will suck more electric current than the longer roll (higher ohms). This will result in unbalanced floor heating throughout the rooms where the area above the shorter roll feels a lot warmer.
We’re installing on a concrete slab and intend to use large format tiles. Or slab is very close to level, but has some slight gradation changes. At what point should you put a layer of self leveling concrete over the slab?
You mentioned thin set, we just layed our detra wire, and are doing hex mosaics, we are planning on doing thin set on top of the wire and then the mosaic, is that what you do?
What kind of box are you using the mount the thermostat?
What thickness subfloor do you need?
Is 5/8 plywood ok with joists on 16” o.c.?
Schluter says 5/8” is ok in Canada. Just install blocking 12” all over the place and glue it down. Schluter has a screw pattern they want you to follow also. 6” apart on all joists and blocking in the field and 3” apart all around the edges.
Amazing video guys very detailed
Thank you
Excellent explanation and walk through.
Thank you for the informative video. I am about to install Ditra heated flooring in my bathroom. However, I have 12” wide wood planks for my subfloor. The builder of my home also drilled 2” holes in the subfloor to blow cellulose between the second and first floor. How important that 100% adhesion occur between the mat and the subfloor? Do you recommend laying concrete board down or re-sub-flooring my bathroom? Thank you again!
I have a slat floor and came to the comments section to ask basically the same thing.
A question please.
I have a kitchen with a quarry tiled floor on dirt (good condition, no rising damp, do not want to dig up), want to use Ditra with under floor heating and with the eventual vinyl or click vinyl on top (can withstand underfloor heating).
What do you recommend please?
Thank you.
its been 7 years ago. Does this need to be GFI protected being in a bathroom around water?
Hi guys great video, I was hoping to see what you did where two mats join. Do you seal the joints with a kerdi band strip before tiling like with the usual ditra mat? And is the ditra heat mat on a par with the usual mat for waterproofing?
It's just for holding the wire and uncoupling the floor. You have to water proof it with kerdi like it was a bare floor.
Thanks for posting this, I found it very helpful 😎
It looks like you wired the two heating cables in parallel. Will this cause one section to heat more than the other? You want the same current flowing through the cables to get there same Watts/foot of cable and that means the two sections should be in series. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Brian, our Schluter rep was on site for this video and the installation. So we followed their directions.
It's the opposite, in series the 240 volt wires would be brought down to 120 volts because series circuits halve the total voltage and raise the amperage. In parallel both wires receive 240 equally distributed. Also if one wire would fail both of them would be off, just like the old type christmas tree lights when one bulb failed the whole set went out.
Great video! What type of knee pads are those you are using? Mine are always sliding so I am constantly readjusting them. Thanks.
Thanks, and those are ProKnee kneepads. Here's a link to their site proknee.com/
Home Repair Tutor thanks so much for the link. I will as those to my wish list!
They make great knee pads. Many professionals swear by them. Good addition to your wish list!!
Home Repair Tutor Thanks again. These knees of mine just aren't the same in my 40s!
Just turned 40 and have noticed same thing.
good,informative video.I can tell you tho that nobody is gonna test that tstat monthly :)
We have one that the temperature on the thermostat reads 92°, which is off about 13 degrees from actual floor temperature. Any way to calibrate reading?
Excellent Video...
Question:
Can this be put in a Class A RV?
@Striper Seeker
Well... the RV is a 50 amp.... has 2 A/C so I think it might handle it...
The area is small... 7'6"' x 15' area for the whole floor plan... This is like a large bedroom.... Right??? Even though the RV is 8' x 30' outside dimensions....
@Striper Seeker The subfloor right now is Plywood.
I think Schluter answers this question in their Q&A section.
@@wetrock2766
Thank you for the info.
Can you install vinyl floor planking over the heat wire instead of thin set and tile?
Thanks
Really good information 👌👌👌
Can you install the sheets over concrete that has been stained with a solid color stain but not sealed. I read that thinset will not stick to the concrete when putting tiles directly on it. But is that a problem with the sheets?
This is a very good video how ever 120 volt is blk / wht , 240 volt is blk / red I say this because a future tech could see this as possible 120 volt thus creating possible danger , so RED taping your neutral white is a good standard practice in the case of 230 - 240 volts
There is one case in which a white may be used to carry ungrounded potential that is still in conformity with the most recent cycle of the NEC. That is when a cable is used to feed a straight 240V load. Besides that if someone is even a tad bit unsure of what they are doing around electric they should stay away from it and call someone who is. The color of the wire isn't going to save your life.
What a mission - so many easier systems out there than this
Which ones do you like? We've used several but always like hearing different perspectives
Hey, markyruss and Home Repair Tutor I'm starting to look at different products from Lowes and Home Depot to install in a 5 X 7 existing bathroom with a ceramic tile floor, any recommendations other than this product?
Hi, quick question, is the insulation board no needed with the Ditra-Heat? I'm about to install underfloor heating in the living room and hallway and just wondering if I need to install first the insulation backer board and then, the Ditra-Heat? Many thanks.
Great video 👍🏻 only thing I would modify
Thermostat should have been positioned higher so you don’t have to bend down to make adjustments
The instructions indicate to make sure the thermostat wire does not come into contact with the heating wire, even in the wall. Am I mistaken?
Good Question...
Did you ever get an answer?
That upside down symbol on the meter for ohms is the Greek letter Omega.... :)
well, it's an Ohm symbol
For that is 110 or 220?? The main power??
Can I install this on Concrete and cover it with engineer hardwood floor?
Denis B ask Schluter. I don’t think they will warranty it
Can you put this under vinyl?
Under vinyl? Of over vinyl?
Noticed the Electrician mentioned this is a 240v system. Is that a requirement to install this heating system? What is confusing is that he also mentions the thermostat can do both 110 and 240. Does DITRA require 240 or 110v?
Pardon I meant 120v not 110v. Or does it depend on room size and cable length? Or is because you are using two cables to do this particular room? UGH.. questions..
would u use DITRA heat for a whole house?
I’m going try to do heating floor ,this video it’s very helpful thanks
I noticed you mentioned it’d be a curbless shower. Any harm in running the heating system into the shower area?
When properly installed, ditra heat can be installed in a shower. There are detailed instructions in the box.
Great tutorial, thanks so much for sharing!
I thought the thinset had to be unmodified, I am about to install this and have purchased the Mapei Kerabond, is this correct?
I will answer: use modified thinset over wood under membrane, and unmodified over membrane under tile. But there is a massive discrepancy which adds to confusion in the Schluter installation guide which states "unmodified thinset mortar - ANSI 118.1" as approved setting material over OSB or plywood floor. So the real answer is unmodified is allowed everywhere.