How to Install Ditra Heated Floor System by Schluter Systems
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- Опубликовано: 25 янв 2017
- How to Install Ditra Heated Floor System by Schluter Systems
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Simply thankful for all of your work and videos, your a beast!
Jeff:
You posted a video before where you screwed this mat down. Installed electric heat and vinyl plank flooring directly on top with no thin set. That post sent me on a journey to do the same. That turned out to be embarrassing because of how wrong it was.
The harsh comments below are accurate. Bad adhesion.. Improper sensor placement. Backup sensor is recommended by any company.
Three inch spacing is minimum anyway. Bad info.
TIP to those watching this install.
Send the company you want to purchase from a layout of the room and they will send you all the right info and a layout plan for your cable.
I went to Warmlyours. Great service and support.
Thanks for the video! We are going to use the schluter ditra mat. We are so curious How are you are doing the shower without the mat. This is a basement bathroom and height consideration is huge, and we already have installed a wedi pan. I’m wondering if I can just run the line through the foam threshold And embed it in the mortar, when placing the tile.
......*pulls up membrane showing NO adhesion*.... classic time to edit video..,. 🤣
No doubt... at 2:50 when he lifts the mat they should edit the video with a voice over saying... "This is an example of poor inadequate coverage"
When using Ditra mat or heat, can you install the mat over 3/4 plywood subfloor? Or does the floor still need to be 1 1/4**thick?
Great system! Schluter offers two heat sensors for install so if one should fail you have a backup. Most people are also not aware that these in floor heat systems need to be inspected by ESA in Ontario after install.
Very true. This is a relatively new addition to the electrical code. Check with your jurisdiction if you have any questions.
Jeff, thank you for the no nonsense videos. I will be installing the Ditra heat flooring on a plywood sub floor. I will be using a OVE shower pan. My question is, can I set the shower pan directly on the ditra heated floor so that the heat would also warm up the shower pan base.
nononoooooooo
if you want to be electrocuted!.
1. Latex portland cement (p.c.) mortar - ANSI A118.11 - from their diagram this goes on before the Ditra.
2. Unmodified thin-set mortar - ANSI A118.1 - the tile is secured using this of course.
As you might well be aware William, there is no technical requirement for latex cement under the ditra. In fact you can use unmodified anywhere. In most situations if a home owner is doing their own tile and using schluter sytems then they can eliminate the need to but latex cement and throw most of the bag in the garbage after just by using unmodified instead.
Can the ditra heat system work on all sub floors they have? In case i buy my sub floor and heating system at diff times.
Always like this guys videos
I d like to do this to my basement. How's the energy saving?
We love your videos! Keep it up.
Thanks Steven, glad to be of some help. Cheers!
Hi Jeff, can this heated floor be used under laminate wood flooring? Thanks.
I would like to know the same.
I have a large bathroom that gets very little HVAC forced air and is always freezing. Will this put enough warmth Into the bathroom, in other words, do more than just warm the tile? I need radiant heating
I heard to tile on wood subfloor 1" & 1/4 is the minimum thickness needed for the tiles not to break
Hi Jeff,
My husband and I love your videos! We are renovating our bathroom and plan to put schluter ditra heat. We only want certain areas of the floor to be heated, not the whole bathroom (for example, under the washer / dryer).
My question is: to maintain a level floor, what do you recommend putting for a schluter membrane? I see a couple options:
- Just put the Ditra heat membrane everywhere (and only run the cables in the heated areas)
- Use a combination of ditra heat membrane and the "regular" ditra membrane
- Is there another option you would recommend?
Thank you
your best option is to install dittra heat everywhere. i have yet to find a good cheat. Cheers!
The different Ditra membranes are different thicknesses so you should only use the Ditra heat membrane if you are going to install the Schumer heated floor system. There is a Schluter heated floor version that includes some sound proofing but you’d only use one or the other because those are different thicknesses.
Thanks Jeff.I'm putting ceramic tile over hardwood at entryway.Do I use the Ditra? and how do I put it down? Glue? Roof Nails?
I would cut out the hardwood and have the tile finish flush with the wood and use the ditra with cement to attach both sides.
yikes..what if the next owner of the house wants the hardwood back?? ooops
You cannot install ceramic directly over hardwood. It needs to be removed, sub-floored or sanded down right to the wood (meaning no lacquer, resins, sealers, oils, waxes , varnish etc.. can be present or the tile or Ditra will not bond to the wood. It will bond (and then lift) to whatever finish the hardwood has.
So do you have any recommendations for going over concrete slab...
Kris Clements watch the actual Schluter install videos on Ditra heat. This guy is doing too many things wrong. It may work out okay for him but beware of all the comments on his mistakes. They’re accurate criticisms.
Hi!,
I have question
I understand I need to use the unmodified thinset for the substrate ,can I use Marie ultralight flt thin set for the ceramic (big format)?
Thank you for a reply.
If you want a Large format tile cement then they sell that. In both modified and non modified gray or white!
Use modified for wood substrate and unmodified for concrete substrate. Very important. Unmodified will not bond to wood and your grout/tile will crack and you'll be replacing it all.
Use Schluter Allset. It’s a bit pricy but it’s good for any application and you don’t have to think about the modified or unmodified part. I called the company to verify this.
Another GREAT video! Okay, Jeff so I found the video with you showing how to install vinyl Plank flooring that you recommended I use and here you're showing an electrically heated mat system that will be underneath a ceramic/stone tile flooring. I'm also getting from this video that the installation of this product is better suited for a professional, yes? Besides that, would this particular electric heat mat system be appropriate to use under vinyl flooring as well or would another product be more suitable?
I would not use Ditra, I would suggest "warm up"brand heating system
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thank you!
Hi Jeff... really great videos. You've helped ma already a great deal. I installed the ditra mats, installed the heating wires and thin-set over the top. After drying I have found that some of the edges of my mats have not bonded to the substrate properly. Can I try to pull up just some of the mat and reapply the thin set, do I need to pull up the whole mat, or is there another option? Thanks!
Hi Philip, Schluter has solved the ditra mat problem with its new allset mortar. Unfortunately the traditional thinset underneath does a poor job of bonding to OSB. Please send me a picture and a list of the products you used. cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hey! Thanks for getting back... not sure how to send a pic, but I used Kerabond T Large-and-Heavy-Tile and Thin-Set Mortar with a 1/4x1/4 trowel over 3/4' subfloor which I wet as you showed us in your video. The piece that didn't stick seems to be because it curled up a bit.
Would this work with micro-bore copper? Looks about the same diameter as the cable
Gas is much cheaper than electricity in the UK
Hi Paul, I am not sure about that, perhaps contact a flooring wholesaler and inquire with them.
Excellent job Mr. Thorman you very professional l want to ask you how are you learning all that mean the job sorry my English not good
Lots of training and practice. Always read instructions and ask for advice along the way.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY so try that. Ask some advice. From Schluter. About the thinset
Do u need another heat sorce if you have infloor heating
What was the sq ft of the kit you used?
what do you think about MGo board
Hello I want to say thanks so much for your videos they are very helpful.
I would like to know how can I contact with you by phone thanks and God Bless.
I'm about to undertake an upgrade to my 1929 house replacing my existing copper pipe how water baseboard to a hot water radiant floor heating system. Any suggestions?
how did ypur floor turn out? i need info
@@cheryldebarge We decided to not go radiant floor heating. The old house had more issues that needed attention.
Did I hear “training course in Toronto” ? Can I sign up ?
Schluter does require modified thinset to bond the Ditra to a wood substrate. The unmodified is required between the membrane and the ceramic or stone tile. UnModified is not recommended to bond to wood as it does not have the flexibility and the bonding qualities Modified does. Please contact Schluter to verify this before continuing installing with the shown methods in your video. Also note that the Ditra Mat requires a heavier trowel then the Ditra. 1'4" x 1/4" or 6mm notched trowel is the recommended trowel to bond the DitraMat to the substrate. Also note that a MegaOhmmeter is also required for testing the Ditra Heat for Extended warranty coverage. MehaOhmMeter measures the resistance of the insulation of the cable for faults. Not trying to beat you down but with anything correct methods should always be shown for the DIY or Newbie installers so to be sure they install correctly. We as Professionals are looked upon on for accurate info and we need to be deligent at our advice
Schluter is making their own cement due to the fact that the modified also fails when applied to Osb. Ditra mat requires the ditra trowel(obvious) The osb is 3/4 thick and laid on 12"n center engineered floor joists. The concept of flexibility is irrelevant in this situation as there will be none. I will look into the ohm's meter but am quite confident with this installation.
Using unmodified is your choice but it is not good advice to give
conflicting advice as to what Schluter recommends. The Ditra Trowel may
seem obvious to you but if you double check the Ditra-Mat Instructions
you will find that Ditra Mat needs a 6mm x 6mm trowel. The standard
Ditra needs a 4.5mm x 4.5 mm trowel. BTW I too have been to the Schluter
training seminars (including one at TCNA) and have been installing
Schluter products since 2002. What I am recommending is double checking
what you believe to be true and verify what I am relaying in
information. Video is very good but needs a little more updated info.
BTW the tile police wont be after you :)
Good news is, Schluter is bringing their own cement to market soon that eliminates the need for a 2 cement solution.
modified over wood sub straight and unmodified over sealed concrete
They are making their own thinset so that you can have one thinset solution. Modified thinset does not always fail when applied to OSB. And your floor will still flex. All structures flex. Even a 12oc over engineered joists has a deflection rating. And you have to test with a meter and document those tests in order to receive the warranty and insure there are no breaks in the line. Your installation may be sound, but the wire may be bad. You don't know unless you test.
I have a GFCI that keeps tripping on my board, a certified electrician did all the electrical and hookups, but it used a wire nut on the ground wire. I was told that a wire nut does not hold tight to the braided wire and the hard wire. Will this cause the GFCI to keep tripping? I turn it on in the morning on manual. It runs great all day and then it seems around 10:00 p.m. it always trips. Is this a problem you have faced and will that cause it to trip???
GFCI keeps tripping on the thermostat or in the electrical panel?
Doubtful... GFCI stands for: Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter and trips when it detects power / current flowing to ground (e.g. a short in an electrical box or coming in contact with a person that serves as a source to ground). In other words the circuit is either shorted to ground or it isn't so only tripping everyday around 10PM doesn't fit the bill. It's more likely the breaker you are referring to is actually a AFCI which stands for Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter which will trip whenever it detects a possible "arc" fault fire hazard, like sparking wires in a loose wire nut. AFCI breakers have a tendency to trip more often than a GFCI because small appliances such as hairdryers, heat lamps, vent fans, vacuums etc., generate small, periodic arcs when in operation which can introduce what is known as "nuisance tripping” because AFCI breakers are highly sensitive to the smallest disruption in the circuit.
Hey can use any type of thermostat on any type of floor heating?
Typically not. Electric in floor heaters like this are powered by the thermostat. Which means it is more of a controler/power source than a thermostat.
Some brands may have the ability to connect an external thermostat but typically not.
On the Schluter Systems instructions, it says to use modified thin-set mortar over plywood.
Right?
Must be your first time here. This dude cares less. Lol
Use can use THEIR modified at apx 60$ a bag ...or use non-modified at 15$ a bag Since DITRA is impervious, it does not deprive the mortar of its moisture. This allows the cement to properly hydrate, resulting in a strong, dense bond coat. In general, we don't recommend the use of modified thin-set mortar to set tile over the membranes because these mortars must air dry to cure properly.
Pls Make a vedio sometime vinyl planks on top of tile floor with floor heat.
on the way!
Wondering...would this system be good for heating an unheated sunroom? We live near Gettysburg Pennsylvania
if the room is insulated then YES!
Very nice
I'm applying this product to a basement with a concrete slab. What type of mud is required for the mate in this situation? Unmodified or modified?
Charles Seawell unmodified. Stop by your local tile supplier and they should be able to recommend anything.
can i use modified thinset to glue down ditra mat on a plywood floor
Yes. That is actually recommended. Non modified thinsets are not ANSI rated for use on wood.
Can this Systems be used Under LVT vinyl planks?
not with the schluter heat. with the Warm Up brand you can. Cheers!
Supposed to use modified thin set for adhesion under Ditra heat
The purpose of doing the ohms test is because of the resistance created by running cable all different directions ?
The ohms test tells you if the resistance is within normal range for the product before and after installation. They have a range in the packaging that would be considered normal. If the number is the same out of the package as after the install, that means the product is not damaged and it is safe to tile. After tiling you can check again before you grout. No sense finishing the job and not knowing if the heat works.
Home RenoVision DIY Thanks for the response. I am currently tiling my whole house and it’s a lot of back breaking work.
A cool feature of the Ditra Heat wire is connecting only the near end of the wire to the thermostat! The far end of the wire can end up anywhere; it makes it really easy to lay out.
BUT what this means is that the full circuit - the positive outgoing wire and the negative return wire - is all contained inside the insulator. This means that anywhere along the length is where a short can (and will try to) occur.
Testing with a MegOhmMeter is prescribed to ensure there is not even the tiniest of insulation faults along that long wire you just manipulated into your substrate. Tiny faults will trickle micro amperage ...until they get bigger and hotter... until there's an actual arc and the GFCI kicks in!
DIYers, TEST WITH A MEGOHM TESTER AS PER THE SCHLÜTER INSTRUCTIONS.
I bet a Pawn Shop near you has a couple of them.
You also need a mega-ohm meter. You should have noted that on the video, a standard multi meter that you show does not measure the reading and if your floor fails without this testing done, warranty is void and repairs will be the owner responsibility.
My last floor, I ran the cable to the shower also. You can water proof the floor by laying the Ditra-heat uncoupling, lay the cable, then lay thinset, then put a layer of standard Kerdi membrane over. Now do tiling as normal. I heated the entire shower floor and the bench. Nothing like having a warm bench to sit on in the shower.
not sure what you are referring too. My meter registers the ohm just fine.
I think what he's referring to is a specific kind of multimeter that can accurately measure MegaOhms. With a normal multimeter, the resistance between the hot or neutral and the ground braid would show up as "open". With the megaohm meter, you can get an accurate reading on that (usually larger that 1000 MegaOhms). This is basically measuring for any small breaks in the cable insulation that could cause extremely small current leaks to ground. Schluter recommends this because with GFCI protection built into the thermostat, these small current leaks (not really short circuits) could flow enough current to erroneously trip the GFCI.
It's worth noting that all other heating cables that I'm familiar with don't require this measurement. Schluter (like most German companies) takes a "belt and suspenders" approach to everything.
Yeah any basic meter won’t capture megaOhms. I will have to purchase a megohmmeter, for the insulation test (third test). Not happy about that because they are not cheap.
Meggers, or a megohmmeter don’t just read mega ohms and are not just an ohmmeter. They produce a very high DC voltage to test the cables diaeletric (insulation) to ground. Megging a cable is one of a few different ways to test insulation, but the easiest and most accessible for cables rated less then a kV. A Fluke 1507 or 1587 is the right tool for the job here, but I find it a little absurd that this company will void a warranty for not testing their cable prior to installation. Seems like a sure fire way to blame an equipment failure on a contractor not having a pretty expensive tool that most don’t know how to even use properly. I am not hating on Jeff at all here.
@@sailorjohnboy can anyone tell me what I should read if my resistance labeled on the cable is 13.65 ohms. Should I get that same number on all 3 tests? He said is was 26.Something but said he should read between 2300 and 3000ohms...? Is there a range i am looking for? Any feedback would be great. Installing a front foyer atm.
Problems with nearly all underfloor heating is no insulation under the concrete slab. The heat will travel down into the slab therefore you have to put insulation at least 100mm down plenty of mesh and you will see your electricity bill savings. As it will warm the slab and will hold the heat for a very long period .
Can you touch on the reasoning why you did not lay Ditra heat in the shower, and what steps you took to lay the wire while tiling? My current situation is that I installed a curbless shower pan, with a trench drain (Redi Tile), and lowered shower subfloor and replaced surrounding subfloor with a thicker board inorder for the show pan to sit flush with the surrounding bathroom floor. Last minute realized I needed some sort of membrane since I will be laying large tile continuously through shower and bathroom, and thought I might as well go with Ditra heat and pay a bit more for heated floors. Now I’m trying to determine if I need to lay the Ditra inside the shower pan or not.
that is a tricky question. Schluter does not recommend heating in a shower anymore since they had to many problems with folks bending the wire up and over a curb. in your case it should be fine but I can't recommend you do it without first talking with them. Cheers!
Home RenoVision DIY that makes sense. Appreciate the response, I’ll give them a call.
Don't waste your time heating a shower.... stop doing stupid things you hear on RUclips ffs
can the ditra heated floor system be applied on concrete and does floor leveler have to be used?
When tiling you should make sure its level. It will be expensive to find out half way through the job that you need to level.
It needs to be as flat as possible. Use the T-Lock type system to make sure tiles are level with respect to each other.
Ditra TB is what you use on concrete so the heat isn't leached into the concrete. It has a thermal break to make sure the tiles get the majority of the heat.
I do not know the amount of variance you're allowed to have when tiling. Ditra will not fix out of level floors. And try not to use thinset to level your floor.
good luck.
@@tomhollins9266 I believe Schluter calls the "TB" stuff Ditra-HEAT DUO now.
Did you have a show where you had to join two in-line copper pipes and you removed that little bump that limits the movement of the connector so that it could be slid above the joint to fit in the other half of the joint?
Use sharkbite or cut the pipe and install a non stop fitting
@@jaandel1 Thanks. I've looked at some of these ideas and even a union joint (or two). But, I saw a video that showed how to get rid of that little bump inside a connector. That idea struck me as a good one. I thought I saw it here.
@@jameslatimer3600 just slide it onto the pipe and use a hammer to tap it all the way on. Then use channel locks to twist it back in place after your pipes are aligned. No need to get rid of the bump. Do it all the time.
This is the second video I've watched today and there are a couple of points and questions that neither video addresses. The first one is that I do not think what you actually buy is "totally customizable" which was somewhat alluded to in the beginning but discussed a little at the end. You cannot have, say 5 ft., of heating cable left over. I will check to see if there are different lengths available for small bathrooms. Lastly, since this video is for the DIY'er, am I "qualified" to check the resistance in order to make sure it is warranted? Pretty good vid although I would have like to have seen how to wire the system up to the thermostat and power source since I think I read that it has to be on a separate circuit breaker?
Yess! I NEED a marble floor and wall, curbless, drainless, doorless, waterfall shower with heated floor and bench. It has to be so good, my collegaes or neighbors are never gonna wanna come to my house. 🤣🤣🤣
We wanted a marble floor but Schluter heated floor system requires a double thickness subfloor and tiles that are at least 2” big to stay within warranty. We were totally bummed to have to return our lovely marble tiles and settle for fairly boring 2” non-marble hex. :-|
HI all. I installed this product as instructed. Had done all the tests as required. No heat. Thermostat calls ... load calls but no heat. Any clue? Also the manual says that it must be grounded. I'm using bx on a dedicated circuit. So it should be fine
get an electrician
I've had issues with bx not providing an adequate ground. Curious what you found?
Bennie White k
The system comes with two thermostats because one is a backup and they want them installed in the center of the room. As for the thin set you should use schluter all set, takes all the guesswork right out.
what is the use of having a back-up sensor
if it's in a box and not under the tile???
Can this be installed under vinyl planks?
yes but you need to pour a floor leveler over the cables first. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Why would you not post a correction after you made a video NOT doing that??
Definitely don't like the sensor placement, or that there is only one sensor installed, but I do like your videos in general - lots of good ideas.
can i install this over concrete board in bathroom
Of course! Cheers!
I removed old linoleum flooring from my washroom and the glue is a pain to get off. Can I install on top of the adhesive?
use a primer like eco grip from mapei first!
Hi, I'm going to use a Suntouch headed mat for my basement bathroom floor.
My question is, should I use a self leveling concrete to go on top of it since there will be a slight height difference in the area that's not headed?
Thanks!
What does sun touch recommend.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY they said either that or heavier thinset on the lower side to make up the difference. Just curious on how you would do it?
Can this heating system be used if I’m putting new tile on top of old tile?
I think Mike Holmes may have covered this in one of his videos. He loves using Schluter.
Do you have to be Certified to install the producct?
I believe it’s only if you are paid to install for others, that you would need to be certified. You can install your own but it’s a bit complicated and so many things need to be done to Schluter specifications in order for you to be covered by their warranty and for the system to work properly. It’s also important to hire professionals to do the electrical and plumbing parts.
@@DebKiwi Debs, All Done. It was no big task. Just follow the instructions. Turned out great. Best Wishes .
Isn't it supposed to be modified between the wood and ditra and then unmodified between the ditra and the tile?
They recommend non modified under the ditra, however experience shows that was a bad idea and that is why they make their own non modified cement now called allset. I have always used a non modified cement because the science leans better with that application if you wet the substrate first!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY So, I certainly don't want to beat you up on this because your videos have been immensely helpful, and I'd have not been able to do this bathroom renovation without your videos (well, or comparable videos, but yours have always been explained best that I've found). But I kept finding conflicting information, so called Schluter directly on this (as my Ditra Heat portion of the project is next), and they say modified (their own brand or any other brand) when binding Ditra to wood, unmodified if binding concrete.
Good Morning. I saw a big creak or hole in the floor before you put on the mud. Do you need to fill all holes and big creaks. Jack
that was the subflooring. no need to fill them in. cheers!
So if you wanted to use this heat system for radiant room heating, would you place the wires closer together, like 1 octagon apart? Or is there a completely different system for radiant floor heating?
the spacing gets smaller and you simply set the thermostat for the desired ambient temp. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY not correct unless you want to void warranty. No closer than 3 spaces
@kacey Howell that will void Schluters warranty. You would use a different system. This product is only for warm tiles although they do have an ambient heat sensor in the thermostat in you can set as well.
Christopher, you can do three and three spaces or three and two. Those are the only options.
Looks like your thinset may be a bit on the dry side. Coverage didn't quite look good enough.
Thanks for watching. However I am completely confident in the installation as shown.
Bingo...the coverage was terrible. I hope that Schluter doesn't see this.
i showed my schluter rep this video he laughed his ass off when he seen where he put the cold lead and sensors... may work right now but if anything ever goes wrong there will be no warranty.
Was a bit dry. Lol
Ditra xl requires 1/4 x 1/4 trowel, not the ditra trowel and thinset should be mixed to a more fluid consistency. When you checked for coverage and saw that it was terrible you said you were happy with it?
We're men we don't need instructions! ........ 2 hours later -*frantically searching for the instructions
I use to work at PPGs research center here in Pittsburgh PA
excellent video but please stop the music, we don't need that
Can you carpet on top on this?
nope. it holds the heat and then the wire dies!
XD
You didn’t tell us the setting on the oms meter
Learned 90% of the time unmodified thinset sucks even on water tight membranes it may take and extra day but I took all types with shcluter membrane then tried to peel it off a few days later the unmodified to 1 fifth the effort the trick to using modified I I giving it time
It is only a floor WARMING system. I installed mine 2 years ago, and in the end had to reinstall my baseboard heater.
Ouch, I never suggest relying on a floor matt to heat the whole room. This is a luxury comfort item not a heating system.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY exactly
3 “ could be used as a heating source, 4” is mostly just for the floor.
Great videos and great heating systems by the way how much it cost ... I will love addit to my bathreno
heated flooring with electrician is around 1000.00 here in Canada
You’re supposed to be 2inches away from the end of the vanity not right up to it. Did you even pay attention at the Schlüter training?
This comes from Ditra______Since DITRA is impervious, it does not deprive the mortar of its moisture. This allows the cement to properly hydrate, resulting in a strong, dense bond coat. In general, we don't recommend the use of modified thin-set mortar to set tile over the membranes because these mortars must air dry to cure properly.
END OF STORY!!!!
Okay, I haven’t read comments yet and I’m only halfway through this video yet I already see a couple big concerns: first, you didn’t use the notch side of the trowel and that’s how you get an even and proper amount of thinset down. When you lifted the Ditra, it was very evident that you did not have enough thinset coverage as lots of white felt on the underside was showing. Secondly, I’m wondering if you fully read instructions and watched any videos because there’s a VERY GOOD reason why you have two sensor cables. It’s so you can install both and connect one, that way if the one you connect goes bad for any reason, you can switch over to the spare one without having to dig up any tile (can you imagine what a terrible hassle and mess that would be?). I’ll watch the rest of this video and see if you eventually have any “epiphanies”. Let’s hope you do.
He actually does use the notch side. Its a bit hard to see on the vid
He’s using the flat side of the trowel to ‘burn’ the thinset into the substrate. Standard practice. He states at 1:40 he’ll ‘comb’ it after.
I agree his thinset coverage is problematic. He’s seemed satisfied with ~20% coverage. I wonder if his Schluter class instructor would agree. 😬 the problem may be that he is using the Schluter 1/8 inch v notch (which is for applying Kerri to band to walls) instead of the recommended 1/4 x 1/4 inch square notch recommended for the Ditra.
Also, there are two tests for the Ditra cable not just one. He only did a resistance test. There is a second continuity test required for warranty
This vid is 5 y.o. now so maybe the recommendations have changed since then..
@@ClownCarCoup Yea most of what you said is correct. your are suppose to check for continuity 3 times, before install during install once cable is down and after tile install. His coverage is absurdly poor because he probably spent a lot of time talking and the mortar got to dry and that's why it's skimming over. His trowel size is good but the mortar is just to dry and not actually grabbing the fleece. He clearly did not do the training course for Schluter or just did not watch the videos that clearly show how this product is installed.
He used the Ditra trowel for the heated floor.
He even installed the Kerdi banding over bare wood in the shower which is never done or recommended.
This was probably a keep it cheap job and needed to be a fast one as the client was not there at the time and he had to get it done in a few weeks or something like that so he probably wanted to just get the thing done and move on as fast as possible. Seeing how there's drywall in the shower but the lack of knowledge with the floor warming and waterproofing install is questionable.
👍👍👍
Modified goes beneath underlayment, unmodified goes between tile and underlayment
you can use Schluter Allset for either.
Shouldn't that be modified thinnest for the DITRA
No It has to be non modified.
You might want to check with Schluter on that.Modified under Ditra; unmodified over Ditra.
Keith Burke That’s what i thought as well, Unmodified for under the Ditra and Modified for over the Ditra
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY modified on wood. Unmodified on concrete. Check with Schluter
@@strictlysinks8382 other way around, bro
I believe you said that the circuit breaker for the Ditra Heat system needs to be a GFCI breaker. On Schluter’s website, they answer this question that the thermostat has GFCI built-in. So the breaker doesn’t need to be a GFCI breaker. www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/faq/ditraheat-system-gfci-breaker
Your electrical code may require it at the panel as does mine. Cheers!
I used the Ditra system 2 years ago, and had 2 issues. First it is only to be used as a floor WARMING system, and 2, the thermo-couple is a bit too large to fit flush with the membrane so I cut the membrane to make it fit better then compounded into place 24 inches from the wall. Warm feet though.
Yes the membrane can be cut to accommodate. I used large tiles and as such needed to use a 1/2 inch trowel so there was lots of room.
just buy under heated floor mesh saves all that work
The mesh is ok. but I needed an uncoupling membrane as well and the wire to travel into the shower so the mesh is very limited in its application as the wire allows for a complete custom job.
Funky floor register boot should have been addressed first.
Crumple up newspaper and stuff it in your ducting if you are sloppy like me.
There are guys that always follow instruction that's what in usa or other develop countries doctrine our childs... your videos are great period. About warranty hahahahaha any of you guys ask for warranty it's hard to ask warranty to GC and you expect from a suppliers when the job itd done...
warranty is hardy to get than free products before you start!
great video .Which Mapei kerbound do you use above the ditra . Do you recommend this
www.lowes.ca/mortar/mapei-227kg-kerabond-t-premium-medium-bed-and-thin-set-tile-mortar_g2365541.html?searchTerm=mapei-kerbound
Thanks
I recommend using any non-modified cement. There are 2 varieties modified and non-modified. After that you have color choices and special additives for large format etc. The key is to use non-modified and then the other options are to be used at your discretion. If you have any doubts or questions ask for help from a tile supply company. The staff there should be well trained to assist. I never trust the advice from boxstores because they don't have a broad selection of products and the training necessary to give good advice.
Sensor should be in the middle not against the cold wall, also very sloppy those gaps in the subfloor ;(
The pad has to be completely saturated with your mastic what you showed wasn’t
John you are really splitting hairs here. the pad upon inspection was 75 adhesion and then we applied pressure again. once you factor in the process of walking on it as well during the heating cable and tile application it will be 100%. You are trying to cast dispersion where it is not required and frankly not appreciated. As our followers will atest put up a video or shut up in the comments. Cheers!
That mat had awful adhesion, there was almost no thinset embedded in the fleece. Compare that to Matt Risingers video where they show how this product should be installed.
it comes with two sensors... one with thermostat and one with cables. both r suppose to be installed.. senors r suppose to be 24 inch away from wall.. i suggest not to use this video to install your floor.. i would watch the schluter video itself.. this guy made alot of errors that would void warranty..
Now Now, don't be hating. If you have any specific points to mention I encourage constructive criticism.
That was constructive. The two thermostats are installed just in case one fails. You also did not install them in the correct location per the installation instructions. The thermostat is supposed to go in the field between to lines. It is supposed to be cut into one of the nodes.
Just a thought, but you may want to read the installation directions before you make a video representing you and the manufacturer.
@@tntrenovate5845 only one thermostat is installed on a bathroom that size. Two SENSORS are installed in the thermostat in case one sensor breaks.
No, you always install both sensors in the floor. As I said, you have one ready if and when the other fails. I never said that you connect them to the thermostat. It's clear he has NEVER been trained, or even read the installation instructions, or he would know this. He also installed them in the wrong place. Again, something he would have known if he took the time to read the instructions.
“...make sure we have good adhesion” “...here we go”
You just said training in Toronto......what....didn’t you pay attention ?
I like how you teach, are you teacher in construction? And I wonder who teach you?
Just enjoy sharing my experience. Cheers!
Thanks l learn a lot from you thank you so much
Use modified when installing to wood. Thinset should've been thinner
Recommend using Schluter Allset and following their mixing instructions on container. They give the ratios for each type of application.
2:47 "Just a moderate amount of pressure...make sure you have good adhesion"
Lifts up the mat and there's hardly any cement stuck to it.
Yup. Seems legit.
The pad should have been completely impregnated with your mix. What you showed on video wasn’t a proper coating on the mat. I hope you corrected that for the customers sake
Hi John, You saw me correct it before your eyes. I stand on my work.
You skipped lightly over the electrical tests. There are 3 of them, you only did one. One of them requires a MEGA OHM METER, that sends a 1000v thru the cable to make sure there are no points of leakage...which WILL show up if you connect this circuit to a GFI. That is a special meter even many electricians don't have.
at least 30 lbs of pressure according to Schluter for good adhesion
ruclips.net/video/gqBGHJzbd6U/видео.html
When you're black and you're in the white part of RUclips lol
Unfortunately loooooots of errors. I like this guy because he tries hard and tried to educate. This was just a bad decision. Probe locations wrong, wire testing in all areas (not just ohms, read the product), proximity to room objects. SCHLUTER would tear this apart!!!!
Thanks for your opinion Jared, Although The job works great and the clients are happy so I am not sure why you have such a problem. I went to check your video on the subject and low and behold not any videos on renovations at all. I guess your just another expert without any evidence that you have a clue about what you are saying. Schluter did contact me. They were only concerned about the cement I used uncer their membrane. I told them to get something that worked because the latex modified was failing on OSB. They designed a new product that we will be discussing shortly.
Wasn't meant to be a rude comment. I really do enjoy your videos and watch them often. And you statement is fair regarding not having my own videos. I've done roughly 3 or 4 dozen ditra heat installs (years back I did the NuHeat systems). More meant my comment as constructive critism vs the schluter warranty. Schluter's criteria to meet warranty is extensive and very complicated. I have also done courses in Toronto, Montreal and a brief seminar when I lived in Nova Scotia. I am not criticizing your work, simply pointing out in this case, the expertise wasn't there (I'm sure you could admit this!!). I mean.... not knowing they have a 2 probe system says a lot (one stays dormant in the box incase a probe fails, most common failure in older systems over time). Also, should be a big emphasis on testing the wire. I made this mistake a few years ago, and the cost of fixing is obviously expensive. Again wasn't meant to be disrespectful. After re reading I can see how u could take it that way. My apologies. As mentioned like your videos and like your dedication to helping people achieve results.
Sorry for jumping down your throat Jared. The schluter warranty for floor heat is more designed to make sure no one qualifies. In this custom bath business you need to take risks to create cool things. I know that they don't have an approved method for putting a wire in the shower but in speaking with the rep they don't have any concern either. If people wanted to follow all of the steps then that is fine. I test my wire and install with a proven technique. I have never had a wire fail on me. I did however buy a bad one once.
It is clear by your comment you know what you are talking about. Happy to receive critique from you in the future. Again my apologies.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY in the video you said unmodified thinset as you put the first mat down and the coverage proves it. In the reply to Jared you said you told them latex modified and blamed it on them. It failed because it was unmodified and cannot adhere to wood. Read the install manual you said not to throw away.
ruclips.net/video/iWhI05TYSh4/видео.html Proper install for reference. Never stop learning
do not listen to anything this guy is saying here. you need to install both temp sensors and you 100% want to have the splice inside of the matting. Go on schluter's website for proper installation.
Come on seriously that was not 90% coverage I’m the cement should be modified underneath and non-modified when you install tile
You actually have it backwards, This is why they invented the new allset because there are so many people who are doing it backwards who haven't gone for proper training.
No, he is correct, to some extent. Dry areas should have 85% coverage. Your coverage is maybe 15%.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY you have it backwards bro. Bet you cant tell this frustrates me to no end. Modified on the wood. Dude check with schluter and dont be so arrogant. Tell us honestly how soon after you had to go back for cracking grout or put the client's number on here so we can call them for an honest answer.
You didn’t test the ground or the sensor. And I do my initial test before I unwind the cable at all…
resources.schluter.com/media/DITRA-HEAT-InstallationGuide.pdf
Yes it is true Schluter suggests using modified thin set under the ditra. This recommendation goes together with the ability to walk on the mat right away. If you let the mat set up overnight and tile the next day like most homeowners would...The use of unmodified works quite well and doesn't void a warranty claim.