How I Install a Schluter-DITRA-HEAT Flooring System
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2023
- Instagram - / todayiworkon
Contact - TodayIWorkOn@gmail.com
This is a project not for the weak at heart! There's a lot of steps to make sure your Schluter®-DITRA-HEAT system works as intended. In this video I detail how to make sure your system works well the first time you install it! Enjoy the video!! 
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Thanks for the video, I'll be using some of the info in my next build!
Great video, this is going to be useful, thanks!
Should have mentioned for those who don’t know why on the long run of the heat wires over 10ft you didn’t just run them straight and put a bend in them. Also it’s my understanding that the latest instructions that come with the wire kit have changed and state that the temp probe wires should not be ran in the chase with the power wires to the electrical box. Great video!!
Two very great observations and you have done your homework!
On the low voltage temp wires, I’ve never seen one fail running it through the conduit with the load wire. It’s not a failure thing, it’s more of a chance of an ohm discrepancy. The 120/240v can disturb and create noise and might give a different temp reading. Back in the day I did a lot of audio/video and we tested this out and we found it was very rare to actually get noise from our speaker wire/amp wire having it touching 120. If you can, separate them, but I have systems 20 years old and they are fine. Schluter is doing some risk management on that for warranty/liability reasons IMO. Mitigating risk is pretty popular with companies. Are they wrong, no, but will the system fail running the low voltage though the conduit? Not likely.
You are correct on the bend. If I recall, this floor was 13’ long and I did bend for resistance reasons, which is in the manual.
Thanks for the great comment with great info and kind words.
Great video! Love the relief smile when you saw the thermometer worked! I was happy for you too! Excellent content and super helpful!
Ripping out that tile would have been sad. lol.
Loving the casual approach to electrical❤❤. If the thermostat is just making a circuit it probably doesn’t matter in the end, but I’m just imagining a German Schluter rep screaming at the computer “mein Gott! We put labels on the thermostat for a reason vat is this guessing???” and having a heart attack
Thermostat rates 120/240, so you really can go with any type of wire on the floor, hence the L1/L2(line 1 and line 2). It's as complicated as running some electrical baseboard. Lol. In the whole process of installing this system, the 12 wire to the box is the EASIEST! 🤣.
Great job thanks for the video.
Very much appreciated, good vedio
Nice Job
Great video! This helps me out a lot. Very much appreciated. +1 new sub
Much appreciated.
Thank you for your excellent explanation/lesson and cautions. I hope to be successful on the first try, too! Are there certain flooring materials that do not work well with ditra heat? I'm contemplating the materials I'll be using to redo the flooring through out the house which is on a slab and cold in the winter and thinking of heating each room which means I'm considering multiple flooring types overtop the ditra: hardwood, luxury vinyl, ceramic tile, thin brick, possibly carpet. Wondering if there are certain types to avoid if using ditra. Cheers and thanks for any additional assistance.
Your question has a lot of variables.
1. You have to see what flooring the company you are buying from will recommended.
2. You have to see what ditra recommends for flooring other than tile. I think they limit heat to 94 degrees or even lower.
3. The heat in the floor does warm up the room quite a bit, but schluter says do not replace your regular heating system with ditra heat.
As long as you keep testing and don’t be careless, you will be fine. A lot of installs do go wrong, but I feel it’s do to multiple people working in an area and not being careful.
Good luck with the project! It’s a very satisfying one.
Really great video. Question I have is why you have 2 electrical boxes, one for ocnnections and one for the thermostat. Cant you just have one 2 gang with a mud plate and do it all in one box ?
There’s only 1 electrical box. You must be confusing it with the towel heater box I installed. It’s only a 1 gang box for all connections.
Love the content man, don't listen to the haters!
I am about to install ditra heat pretty soon, I saw that the seams between the mats can get the kerdi membrane to secure them together. Have you done that before? Slash - seen a difference between doing that and not doing that?
Thank you are the kind words. The haters are few and far between, which I’m thankful for. In my videos I rarely tell people what do, I just tell them how I do it.
On to your question. I’ve never done it, but I guess if you are looking to waterproof the floor it might be a good idea. Then you run into more work and more waterproofing, like up the walls from the corner.
Hey Man love the video. One Question. What if I have a larger room? I have a basement room on slab. It is 390 sq ft. Do they make a cable big enough to cover that? I beleive it would require a cable approx 350 sq ft according to the schluter site. I just cant figure out how to get a cable that big? or can I link up cables? Thanks !! Great job
That’s a lot of floor to cover with ditra heat. I’m not sure, but maybe 240v might go a longer way compared to 120v. This was the biggest 120v roll of wire I could buy before I would have to get into 240v. I might look this up a little more when I get back from vacation. Good luck with the project!
tilesetter for 35 years last few years i do service and warranty the main problem with the cables not working properly is the electrican tile setter home owner connects both temp probes will never work properly as you said the other one as a spare in the box. Good vid i used to feel the anxiety to
Great info!
Love the video great job. I have one question about romex back to the panel. I have just finished my install and am hooking up the thermostat. I have about 65sf of tile with cable. should i be using a 15A breaker and regular 14/2 cable or up the amperage to 20 and 12/2?
A 15 amp(14 wire) can take about 75% of load, which is 11 amps. A 20 amp(12 wire) can take the same 75%, which is 15 amps. What does the coil say on amperage output. If it’s less than 11 amps you can go with a 15 amp breaker and 14 wire. If it’s more, you have to go with a 12 wire 20 amp setup. Check the wattage output and convert to amps. Thanks for the kind works and good luck with the project.
got it , 15A is well within range, thx for clarifying this@@TodayIWorkOn
Check your local code as well. California requires it to be 20 amp, if you just put 20 amp in you dont have to worry about it
@@paulvieth2906 that’s interesting. Say you have a tiny 30 foot floor? That draws like 2-3 amps. Crazy.
Is uncoupling
membrane the best way to go for tile floors ?
It's fine, but you do use more mortar and it's a lot more expensive.
How long for you to instale the membrane cleaning prep the floor etc
Hours.
Can i use a different brand of thermostat with that ditra heat floor?
I’m going to guess, maybe. I wouldn’t mess with the expensive system with a 3rd party thermostat. You can try!
What product did you use to install / trowel over the mat ?
Just a flat trowel, nothing crazy.
The thinset material?
@@Mcseverythingoutdoors all set from schluter.
Any one about cuts that don't mach.
Hello brother could you please tell me where I install GFI ? Before Thermostat ?? Pls
The GFI is the thermostat.
Nice but some steps to vague. Wish you would have shown the part where you attached to the wall. Test CFI? Assume you did not cut temp sensor wires?
I did cut the temp sensor wires. No big deal cutting those. Attaching to the wall it’s pretty straight forward since the unit is attached from the factory and you need to unattach the thermostat to install the cover to the junction box. Testing CFI is in the video. It’s just a push button that does the test.
this connected to a 120? or 240?
You can connect to both with this particular thermostat. I used 120 for this floor.
Does it get its own dedicated circuit ?
Im just not clear why you covered the ditra with mortar before tiling. Seems like a huge waste of time and would actually reduce the bond strength of the tiles.
I do it to reduce the chance of the ditra heat getting damaged plus using less mortar when installing tile.
The mortar will adhere on the existing thin set with no issue. Why would the bond strength be less? Just curious on why you would say that.
@@TodayIWorkOn you would be creating a weak link between thin set over the ditra and the second layer of thin set for the tile. Thus negating the divots in the ditra that would make failure to adhere, almost impossible.
@@star9732 i've been laying ditra membrane for 20 years and my understanding of the membrane is that it moves. When you fill the little holes, that can not move anymore. Since the mortar is stuck in the divot, the application of mortar on top will adhere to the divots hence making a secure bond. That's the engineering of the uncoupling membrane. Thinset has no memory on when it dries thinset to thinset. Does that make sense?
Look like you have no clue about tile setting it take 1/2 hr to float the whole floor then its way faster to instale the floor
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