90s MINIMALISM - FROM THE SUBLIME AVANT-GARDE TO PROBLEMATIC ADVERTISING
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2024
- 90s MINIMALISM FROM THE SUBLIME TO THE PROBLEMATIC: The Different Design Styles of 90 Minimalism looking at The Avant-Garde Deconstructivist Minimalism to Luxury Minimalism to American Minimalism
REFERENCES:
The Lifecycle of a Fashion Trend: news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8262788.stm
The Best Decade Ever? The 90s Obviously: www.nytimes.com/2015/02/08/op...
The Art of the Sublime: www.tate.org.uk/art/research-...
Modernism & The Sublime: www.tate.org.uk/art/research-...
Fashion in the Nineties: www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion...
Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis: www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/...
25 Unforgettable 90s Runway Shows: www.vogue.com/article/marc-ja...
Designers Who Shaped 90s Minimalism: www.vogue.it/en/fashion/trend...
Deconstructivist Architecture Introduction: www.dezeen.com/2022/05/03/dec...
What was the Cold War?: www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/47122488
90s Off Duty feat. Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington: www.whowhatwear.com/model-off...
Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, Yohji Yamamoto’s Great Interpreter:
www.gq.com/story/carolyn-bess...
Vogue Margiela: www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/d...
Vogue Ann Demeulemeester Shows: www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/d...
Miu Miu Spring 2023: harpersbazaar.com.au/miu-miu-...
Yuppie Style is Back: www.gq.com/story/yuppie-style...
Helmut Lang 90s Minimalism: www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/... 
Хобби
designer's approach to grunge in the 90s is exactly what brands like Balenciaga do to alternative subcultures today. I'm a techno punky goth person, and me and my friends very often are literally gagged when we see how much do high fashion brands take from our styles, how they make it fancy and expensive, and how all the 'cool' Instagram rich kids wear those luxurious products looking totally like us (always few seasons late tho ;)), whilst.. we still poor af, wearing mostly second hand handmade stuff, being naturally very creative AND not paid for delivering this all at all.
Great points! Yes the original creatives never get the credit deserved. Thank you for your perspective!
Found your channel a week ago, really admire your ability to articulate so clearly. Appreciate the great effort you put into including images what you talk about too, it takes a lot of effort compared to just talking about a topic. I like the length of the videos too, the TikTok pace is too much for me :-) - it's nice to listen for a bit longer, because you can digest the information being told a bit more and the videos feel more in-depth. Keep up the good work!
Really appreciate this comment, especially because youtube is heavily promoting shorter content. Thank you so much for watching!
Like @mprerr8967, I stumbled by coincidence on your channel a day ago and since been sifting through episodes. One word: refreshing! (More on that later). Allow me to be long winded, as 1) I rarely comment on YT plus not great on soc media 2) perhaps a reply/commentary all in one on several of your videos together 3) you deserve proper appreciation and of consequence, provoke your enthusiasm further.
Before I delve, my bkgound: read architecture and worked in sales & marketing, at senior level for just under 3 decades in the fashion industry from mass brands to couture thus allowing me to extensively around the globe. Ie i know my threads to craft to product placement. Do remember, when I started, there were no schools or books of fashion business unlike today (schools only started in 2005) thus, I write from hands on experience and behind the scenes reality. I say this not to brag but to give substance to the below, in the hope not to be bias. Furthermore, I apologise if i come across unPC, i cant keep up with what’s right or wrong these days. I mean no offence in what I say more a conversation around the table with a glass of wine.
Refreshing! Why? It’s refreshing to see how well documented (researched, critic, unbiased, etc) your episodes are (Not on Tik Tok or tweets for twats, so I can’t commentate) and perhaps need to be longer, maybe in “subject - Part 1,2, 3 etc because they deserve to be properly watched. You have a unique ability to not only articulate in depth on a topic but its context (social, political, cultural, artistic, etc) reminding viewers of the bigger picture, on parallels of patterns and the intricate nuances that blend into the reality. “Fabric of Society: fashion through the lens of time” could be the title of your book. Like you mentioned: Josef Albers - interaction of colour. Fashion and its multi faceted context in time. An eg: have you noticed something banal as soap, detergents etc have exotic smells. It’s arduous to find simple clean soap with a delicate fragrance. Reason: emerging markets, follow the money. Same with fashion. Brands are geared for making money thus satisfying tastes and demand, like your handbags or cosmetics. Hence, the return on bling and gaudi colours, cultural symbolism. Much like Asian cuisines. We’d see this when Arabs/Oligarchs and then the falling of Cold War which we catered for in the 90’s ie new money like China today. Gold is precious wherever you go.
On minimalism, esp 90’s fashion my fav - I could listen to Rachmaninov, GnR, Nirvana, Marlyn Manson and Arvo Pärt at the same time; your analysis is spot on. You’re touched on Margiela, Pheobe Philo minimalism; expand to DADAism. A golden period 1870 - 1939 was a tectonic shift of great minds in Europe let it be in art, architecture, food, music, fashion, politics (socialism, communism, fascism), science, philosophy, suffergets, women’s rights, Industrial Revolution, etc. (read on the Weimar State through which Bauhaus came and/or that period, then bastardised in modernism, of no fault - the wars came in and geopolitics changed everything). Form and Function came through necessity less out of ideology. Some good minds Yves Klein, Meis Van der Rohe, Rothko, etc. were still provoking thought. Ism’s were born brutalist, modernism, Dadaism, feminism, protectionism, constructivism, deconstructionism, sexism etc There was no money. Houses had to be built, people fed, babies born. Photography took over art/painting/sculpture (realism). Architecture austere. Look at what we used to eat then and now. It’ll tell you a lot about western society and its progress since. Innovation came through need. Hoovers, kitchen appliances all the way to tractors etc. Women had to work - women’s rights. Liberal sex - we needed a population to work (look at why we have to work today compared (pay bills) to then where passion or craft was prioritised (knowledge)).
I’m digressing (dyslexic). These ism’s haven’t had the time to settle and fully integrate in the social mind. Can you keep up with todays fashion? Why do we have walk in wardrobes? Can you keep up buying a new iPhone every year or a new bag? Is the return of maximalism (like in baroque, Rocco, classism, etc) our desire for comfort food - the known not the experimental? The 90’s had yuppies and yobs very much like Georgian/Victorian times - poverty and opulence the clash between catholics and Protestants. Juxtapositions. The anorexic look, H model, came about for two reasons: 1) photography - the camera lens, like it or not, unlike the human eye adds 6 kgs to your photograph ie you become a size or two bigger. Hence the models, still today, need to be underweight. 2) the consumer forgets they are not models. Most are short, overweight and/or aged. Karl Lagerfeld joke: what does a woman have between her tits? A navel. Likewise, Armani wouldn’t hire a model with a cup bigger than A/B. The designers aesthetic more technical, like 14 year old models being used for women’s wear. Their skin is perfect and they dont take recreational substances if professional. No puffy eyes. In this media influenced world, programmes like Emily in Paris butchers french cultural ideals esp on fashion. French/Parisian girls eat healthy, dont wear makeup, have limited wardrobes and certainly dont wear heels all the time. On cobbled streets?? Really? The stylist has probably never lived in Paris. Unlike, Patricia Fields (who i worked with in Greenwich) on Sex in the City, is a force to reckon with. Film photography is worse, models need to be skinny. Also, do remember, bodies change with age. That’s where Phoebe Philo’s ad’s are great and inclusive. She understands the body. Anne Hathaway couldn’t do Devil wears Prada today but Cate Blanchette, Christy Turlington could.
This opens two questions for you: what is fashion? Tribalism, insecurities, loneliness, narcissism, look at me I’m here I’m here (attitude), consumerism? And then, what is Luxury? What is precious? Craft, product, handicraft, art, etc. Everything is nothing. Everything is a knock off. Plagiarism in full scale. Let it be food, clothes, architecture, thought. What is original anymore. What is beauty? Are we just billboards for brands? (Look into neuromarketing - fascinating subject, scary data and insight on consumerism) Living to media fairytales? What is fashion post pandemic: an economic monster of our own creation we have to feed? At what cost? I’d further add is fashion or dare say art, today as we know it, a western construct? Fashion art has culturally appropriated from the east for centuries chinoiserie etc and is it vice versa, eastern consumers appropriating western culture and to what consequence? Just thought provoking, doubt it would interest your viewers. Is it that china’s cancel culture during Maoism has left a void in identity? Climate change is not the only change happening.
Refreshing. Regardless of my rant, I’d wholeheartedly encourage you to follow your endeavours. You have refreshing insights and an ability to draw parallels. I’d encourage you to write too and wish you the very best. I did warn you of this being long winded. Forgive me. Refreshing to see thought provoking content. Be well and keep up the good work.
P.S: forgot to mention Giorgio Armani and unstructured tailoring. And is Less, More? Cant wait for Pheobe Phil’s new collection, miss: Galianno, McQueen, Tom Ford when at Gucci (who btw had strong Japanese aesthetic influences (see his Texas ranch designed by Tado Ando). Also, look into 70’s Sex pistols, David Bowie strong influences on 90’s grunge/ Marlyn Manson - what is sex (gender neutrality- asexual aesthetic starting in Weimar State, women wearing trousers, etc) not that you need suggestions for future episodes 😂 All the best
Girl. I am going to binge every vid you’ve made. Your brand of thoughtful analysis is SORELY missing on RUclips (and pretty much everywhere else to be honest) and I’m excited to keep watching.
Really appreciate this! Thank you so much for watching Cassy❤
Your videos are so good. No one makes rigorously researched and referenced fashion content on RUclips really. You make it seem easy :)
Thank you so much Antonio! Really appreciate it :)
Brilliant video, I love this era and your video helps me understand why. Also it be cool to have you discuss how brands like CK , DKNY& Ralph Lauren lost their muster a bit. I think outlet malls was a big factor
Thank you so much Sam! Yes American luxury brands definitely went into decline in the later 2000s and the outlets really did devalue them, despite being able to make short-term profits. Really appreciate you watching❤
Black spaghetti strap dress and those Prada patterns are what I think of when someone mentions 90’s fashion. Oh, and neon nail polish. 😊 I was in my early teens in the second half of 90s and remember the hair and pastel clothing, and lots of denim
Ohh yes Prada in the 90s was it! Thank you so much for watching❤
Just want to say I learn so much from your videos. I love these in-depth looks into style
Glad you like them! Thank you so much❤
You’ve hit it out of the park once again!!!!!! ❤❤❤❤ I love how intelligent and how diverse your sources of information are. You have an extremely strong fashion/creative voice!!!!
Thank you so much Michel, really appreciate you watching!
For those who didn't exist yet, or aren't old enough to remember, the 90's were amazing. Social problems that have gotten worse these days, were actually better back then. And there was no social media to make people short attention span, mannerless automatons. There was debate with respect. There were very few physical conflicts going on globally. Fashion and music were fantastic, with a lot of variety in both. The economy was pretty decent for most of the decade in most of the western world. Truly the good old days.
I wish it were still 1990.
Hear hear! I’m perhaps from a similar age bracket to you and have worked for 3 decades in the “fashion” (“” because what is fashion?). That said, allow me to provoke a discussion. It is human nature to ruminate, and often how good, when we were in our prime things were.
However, there is a lot of truth in what you say and you touch of several interesting points. Anecdote: on a recent trip in India, I was chatting to an elder street vendor on morning on how India has changed. I was surprised when he said the ‘90’s was the best. Asking why, he replied: people still communicated, looked at you, were kinder. I looked quizzed, he noticed and continued: it was the peak of the mobile. The mobile phone was at its best. I left digesting his humble observation.
I see parallels to what you are saying. We had the opportunity and time to appreciate the craft, the style. There were 4 seasons - 2 collections, unlike 52-56 fast fashion. We had time to adapt choose, save up and invest in a few timeless pieces. And weren’t brainwashed by soc media bombarding buy buy buy messages which in turn increased insecurities esp body/looks. The advent of the internet, firmer in the noughties, sped things up.
By 2010, soc media took off and now we suddenly are exposed to “all” the good/bad of global society, let me add - unwillingly. a deluge of imagery, but no reason/ing. Generations with gold fish memories, seen but not lived or experienced.
It’s actually quite sad and perhaps why I left the fashion industry as it no longer made no sense apart from making money. I’ll provokingly add two issues, both are interlinked: 1) population growth - local, national, global and 2) Culture & economies - i witnessed how gradually China sucked up all the fashion production/manufacturing in the early ‘90s from far east countries, now globally becoming extremely wealthy. We, follow the money. I was witnessing our collections being copied and sold identically within a week on the streets of Hong Kong. Had to ban buyers from photographing, eventually not sending collections there. Primarily China, though common in Far East, they had the Mao cancel culture - burning books, buildings, etc. Generations later, you have a wealthy population of 1.4 bln with no identity so are adopting others. Clear eg: difference between China & Japan. Heritage. Returning to your observations on the ‘90s - fashion, music, etc and the absence of media influence, the arts had time to study heritage and perhaps give an intellectual/artistic twist on their collections - Galliano, McQueen, etc but if you have no culture or past?
So if 1.4 bln people want: you can sell whatever shit you want, they wouldn’t know better. It’s about branding and marketing. I call it the Emperors New Clothes Syndrome. Its no wonder all Luxury Holdings (7 that dictate the industry) not brands (brands belong to the same 7) are at a financial loss. Everything looks the same. Which is true of anything or all the streams of art. Take architecture: all our cities look the same - bland. A building in shanghai could be in NY, London, Dubai, etc. there is no personality/identity. We objectify everything. The moment you do so, it has a price.
In short, I think we were the lucky ones to witness/experience fashion, music whilst it was still a form of art and not consumerism. Sorry for being long winded and i hope I wasn’t OTT but you have a point. Best x
Love the 90s! More of these kinds of videos
this is a great overview. If you're looking to make more videos, expanding on any of the topics you've touched on here would be a great idea, even if you've got the time maybe doing a series. I find it interesting that you link minimalism here to peacetime, as the current discourse, I get the impression, describes minimalist tendencies (Quiet Luxury etc.) as a sort of recessioncore. I think it is a pendulum between vibrancy and simplicity, and that grunge and minimalism can both be seen as reactions to the excesses of the 80s
This video was so well-researched and interesting! I love the images and comparisons with architecture. Wow so good thank yo
Please keep these coming! I look forward to them and this time you connected my love for interior design and architecture with fashion.
So glad! I love how fashion is very inspired by design especially architecture. Thank you for watching!
I love your channel. I found you via the Olsen twins videos, and I appreciate the informative, elegant, impeccable content.
Thank you so much Silvana❤
Happy New Year Mary! I love hearing your POV on one of my favorite fashion eras. I can’t get enough of the 90s. Great video! 😘
Thank you so much Jamie! Happy New Year❤
I think this has been one of your best videos yet. Amazing job! I would love to see a video about lifestyle marketing more in depth.
Thank you so much Isabella❤
Love this video on 90s minimalism. More please!
You got it! Thank you for watching❤
I love your channel! Love these themed videos 💌
Thank you so much Virginia❤
The context on these videos is unmatched!..every video is not just a video,it is a hit!!!Absolument well done!!
Wow 👏👏
Thank you so so much!
This was such a great video, so informative and thorough. Thank you!
Thank you so much B!
Happy New Year Mary. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on 90s Minimalism. 💌
Thank you so much! Happy New Year❤
Excellent presentation, I love to hear your point of view and appreciate your content.
Thank you so much❤
Really love how well researched your videos are. These are exceptional.
Thank you so much Jillian💕
Thank you for your videos. This one in particular hit home. I was in my late teens, early twenty's in the '90's. You managed to capture it perfectly from Grunge to Calvin Klein. I remember seeing Nirvana's video Smells Like Teen Spirit for the first time and my young mind being blown. I had never see anything like this before. This moment in fashion changed my whole aesthetic. One that I have always allowed to trickle into my adult life. Loved this video!
It must have been amazing to experience the music and fashion in the 90s as a teen and I can see why it's so impactful. Thank you for watching❤
Love, love, love this video! You are getting a new subscriber)))
Appreciate this! Thank you for watching❤️
Awesome video. Thank you so much for sharing darling. Happy new year 🎊🎆🎈
Thank you so much Irene! Happy New Year❤
came across your channel lately and i'm so grateful.
tnx ^_^
Thank you so much for watching🙏
Coming from 90s minimalism, I don't know what the hell happened with 2000s fashion. We really went off a cliff there.
lol! Yes the 90s was it!
I love your content so much
Thank you so much❤️
Awesome video !! I would love to hear more about this topic. I wouldn't mind listening more about this topic :)
Thank you for watching Emma! More to come :)
I was already prepped to deliver my comment on the title alone "Basically, Sade"...when you had a whole video on her. You have excellent taste.
Yes her style deserves its own dedicated video! Thank you for watching❤️
absolutely great -
In the 90s I bought some wonderful, minimalist clothing by an Italian brand, Industria (by Fabrizio Ferri). I still have some pieces and they are timeless. They don’t have enough recognition.
I definitely will look into them! Thank you for watching Caroline🙏
Great video! I was finishing up college and starting my career during the 90’s. It was interesting to hear your perspective on fashion during that time. I definitely fell into the minimal yuppie style then. Kind of explains how I am now. 🤣. I haven’t changed very much. 🤦🏽♀️. Thanks for the video.
Yes the times impact our style! Thank you for watching TPM
When I think of the 90s I think of Seinfeld
one of the best fashion video on RUclips 🙏
Big Thank You! Appreciate you watching❤️
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 GREAT JOB
❤how moving, you opened this video with the historic words, "tear down this wall."
Definitely! A historical moment. Thank you for watching❤
I
Thank yo so much Chynna❤❤❤
Like most people I spent the 90s off my face but it was a fun time to be alive
Gucci under Tom Ford was if Halston and 70’s porn had a baby. I loved it. Haven’t bought any Gucci since he left. Donna Karen was the woman of the 90’s. She and Louis D’Olio perfected American women’s wear at Anne Klein. I have Helmut Lang I still wear today. There’s a through line from Lang to Peter Do so it’s fitting that he’s at the head of the brand now.
I love 90s minimalism. They call it quiet luxury now which I love. I hate logos.
Love the 90s❤
Definitely my favorite aesthetic.
I thought you were Penelope Cruz for a split second!😮
I'll take that as a compliment!
I never liked grunge much. Just the music.
my experience as a grunge kid was this - punk was too political, we had enough of this fighting between right and left and didn't want to be political...but we still were very anti-capitalism/consumerism...so I just wore my dad's shirts ans we wore our clothing till it was tattered and torn...also we had no money and the money we had, we certainly would not spend it on clothes ^^; we usually hang out outside all day, so comfy and effortless clothing made a bit more sense I guess. also I think there were more and more "broken homes" and parents also had no time to make sure we dressed properly...also we were kind of on the depressed and self destructive side of things, and the "style" was a reflection of that...I mean, the punks and goths dressing up seemed to me like they were making an effort to dress up, that I didn't have in me...didn't seem to have a reason to care that much... looking back grunge already appears like a form of minimalism, to me it was a sense of "we want nothing to do with your ways, leave us alone", so I guess it was a bit the chance for a clean slate
Great perspective, I was too young to remember the early 90s, but these points all make sense especially in the context of the 90s. Yeah I think grunge has this element of "normcore" that other subcultures like punk/goth did not. Thank you so much for your perspective!
@@MarysRoom good point! yes that sounds like it! At least for me there was a lot of not wanting to associate with a particular subculture too much and I think that resonated with so many people it became a thing - also grunge was close to the riot grrrl movement and that was something I could get behind. I kept thinking about this and remembered that there were a few fashion purchases for me as well, Chucks were a definitely a thing and I had a quite expensive leather jacket that was bought purely cause I thought it had a cool grunge style ^^; I have been wondering where all the money went, then I remembered it was back in the day where you had to purchase most of your music collection haha..your video made me reflect a bit and realise it might not be a coincidence I am pretty much the minimalist today, there is a red thread :)
♥♥♥♥♥♥
Thank you Raw Eden❤️
Hiii, do you have an Instagram handle ???? Love love the way your videos are structured
Hey, I barely use it but if youre interested its marysroom_ Thank you for watching!
I love your content. What's your Instagram @ ? 💗
I do have IG, but barely use it @marysroom_
absolutely great -