Ford Fiesta Mk7 sub frame removal and steering rack replacement, how to do it yourself easily.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2020
- Thank you for watching my how to replace a steering rack on a ford fiesta mk7 video where i also show you how to remove the sub frame.
steering rack Petrol ebay.us/SQlXRl
steering rack diesel ebay.us/ynM8s5
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting this channel
please like and subscribe, also please follow me on Instagram to keep up to date with whats going on on my channel @ Martys_workshop 
Авто/Мото
Great service thank you very much
World need a man like you
God bless you
Thank you for your great feedback!
Thanks so much for this video! Following your video, I was able to fairly easily replace the rack and pinion on my 2012 fiesta SE (US version). Excellent video and tutorial.
Here are a few things I learned in the process which may be helpful to others:
-The procedure for the US version is near identical, except of course that it is mirrored from the vehicle shown in the video.
-Some of the bolts in the US version have different heads than shown in the video - including several which are 12mm e-Torx.
-During the install, somehow my steering wheel must have rotated a full rotation to the left and so when I tested it out, the power steering prevented rotating the steering wheel to the left more than 1/4 turn. This was easily resolved by disconnecting the bolt on the steering shaft, rotating the steering wheel one full turn to the right, then reconnecting.
-Counting the threads on the track-rod ends as shown in the video kept my alignment very close to original. I still got it professionally aligned (tracked), but it was comforting to know my wheels weren't very crooked while driving to the mechanic.
Thank you for your input Peter. I'm glad my video could help.
Brilliant video!!! You make a tricky job look so easy! Thanks for filming this!
I'm glad you like my video, thank you for watching.
Great Video Marty! I have a 2011 Mazda 2 that is identical to the MkVI Fiesta. I have exactly the same issue. I actually bought a replacement arm and found that it was not the issue when I removed the boot to install it. Im changing the entire Rack this week and wanted to know what I was in for. Love your relaxed and informative style.
Thank you for you feedback and kind words. I'm really glad i can help.
Replacing the subframe on my st soon using your video for the basics as I cant find any guides on how to actually do the whole job, good work fella, cheers 👍
Thank you im glad my video can help.
Excellent video .Thanks so much Torben
Glad my video could help
Thank you so much .I did the job myself easy the car is like new now great advice
Thank you for your feedback david, I'm glad i could help.
Great video bud, I've only just finished doing the rack on my MK5 Fiesta. A total pain it was with rounding bolts ha ha. Looks so much easier on a MK7, great info man.
Thank you for your feedback 😊
Great video mate, many thanks for your help.
Thank you for your feedback
Fantastic tutorial, thank you!
Thank you for watching
Exactly what I needed, thanks alot mate!
Thank you for watching
brilliant info,,,thanks
Thank you for you feedback
Great video, perfect explanation.
Just did it on my fiesta, but I had a few problems with rusted bolts and nuts. The outer joints bolts were cut and also had to cut into the chassis cu the top bolt for the subframe was rusted and kept spinning.
Thank you for your feedback thease bolts are being a bit of a nightmare from what I hear.
Wild and wonderful Welsh workshop *
Thank you for watching
Again, you're the best!!!
Thank you for watching
Very helpful, thank you:)
Thank you for your feedback
Very good video cheers
Thank you for watching
Great video
Wish I watched it b4 struggling
It's allways the same that you see the awnser after you have had to figure it out yourself, thank you for watching
cushty video just done mine and all sweet as cheers fella
Glad i could help.
@@Martysworkshop quick question for ya ive got a noise when I pull away like a clonk noise and also when brake only does it when car gets hot I mean wishbone been changed the steering rack been changed and the anti roll bar links been changed aswell as inner and outer tie rods you think it could be drive shaft at all comes from driver side
this is a fine production -
Thank you for your kind feedback.
Very good
Thank you for watching
Great thanks
I'm glad my video could help thank you for your feedback
Hello mate. Thanks for the great great video.
What are the torque nm specs for the 2 big 18mm bolts, and the upper chassis bolts E12?
I don't know, sorry my technical data doesn't tell me. I just gave them a firm tighten with a half inch power bar.
@@Martysworkshop That's alright mate. Thanks :)
First of all thanks for this wonderful video. I have a question, if the clunking nouse is due to excessive play between the rack and the pinion, can we just tighten them up? There's a big screw on it right?
The play is not between the rack and pinion I'm afraid, it is the bushes where the shaft connected to the rack passes through the end of the casing as you would have seen the play in the video. Sorry if i did not make that clear in the video, and thank you for your support.
In this case couldnt we just change the knuckle and gator?
Noticed a bit of a rumble in steering when driving my daughters Fiesta at very slow speeds ,jacked up front , no play in wheel top and bottom , slight bit of play when moving wheel left and right , definitely not track rod ends ,noticed v v small amount track rod and gator movement ,could bolts that hold whole steering rack be loose ? or is it a worn rack requiring a new one ? ,Great Vid very informative, 👍
Thank you for watching, well as for the rack mount bolts you can get to the heads of all three underneath the subframe so firstly i would put a bar on them and check they are tight, then i would advise cheaking the bottom ball joint by jacking the wheel abd while someone rocks the wheel pinch the ball joint boot and feel for play, and if no joy the i would advise removing the steering rack gator boot like in the video to check for play, hope this helps
It’s probably the steering uj under above the pedals they are known for knocking
If this is gone can it create a knocking over bumps as myn knocks over bumps and ive changed everything
Thank you for watching, Yes it was knocking, thats the reason i was looking for play
Great video as always mate! Only thing I would add is to be careful on the E12 subframe bolts. If you break the captive nut free it means cutting into the chassis leg to replace it. Ask me how I know😔
Oww no matt! I feel for you mate that is not a fun thing to fix. Thank you for your feedback definitely worth noteing!!!
I wish I had read this comment before I lowered the subframe to replace the ARB bushes.
I managed to break BOTH captive nuts…
Did you remove the strut, cut a window, weld the nut back on?
Is it a really pathetic tack weld holding the nut on or something?
Mine was RUSTED also which probably didn’t help!
I would like to source the nut and bolt to replace but I don’t know where to look for one
@@davidsimpson2550 Apply a LOT of heat to and pressure and then try to run it in with an impact
If that doesn’t work then cutting is the only option. For the near side go into the passenger footwell and cut a small square out of the floor. This will give you access to the nut.
For the offside it means cutting the chassis leg. A total ball ache mate.
Apparently putting a bottle jack on the back of the head of a ratchet and applying a load of pressure has worked for some but it didn’t work for me.
Good luck brother.
Ask me how I know this too.
@@nospoon4799 Normally broken bolts get drilled out using left winding brill bits from working on motorbikes i have had to have this done without damaging the threads that the bolt is stuck in. I am not clued up on the captive nuts but if the heads of the bolt snapped then the best option is to drill the bolt out even if it takes to destroy it completely
I need my steering rack replaced and pipes replaced what sort of price would you expect to pay on old style fiesta zetec 1.4
I'm not sure sorry, I don't charge for repairs.
Really enjoyed watching this 😁 have you any friends with Golf R or similar, your channel would go through the roof if you worked on cars like that, you'd be at 100k subs before you know it mate
Thank you for watching, yeah that would be a sick car to have in the workshop! To be honest i only do videos on family and friends cars so the choise can be quiet slim, thank you for taking the time to comment.
@@Martysworkshop No problem at all, I appreciate the time you've put in making the video so the least I could do is send a message to say you've done a cracking job.
Shame you live so far you could have worked on my cars 😄 I need to buy a new one for channel but prices are crazy at the moment.
Craig
Hmmm those e12 bolts I don't understand, I cracked them open and now they just spin out. I noticed there was a big jump in that section of the video. How did you get them out as that's the last piece to my jigsaw puzzle to get the subframe down
So you bolt is just spinning and not comeing out?
@@Martysworkshop yh its literally the last piece before the subframe can lower and I'm stuck for answers on how to get it off without having to cut into the chassis leg
Yea it sounds like the captive nuts are spinning in the chassis, the bolts undid with no issues when I did this, can you cut a slot to get a spanner on the nut.
@@Martysworkshop where do u have to cut the slot? Mines are just spinning as well?
Great video, have you changed a Mk6 fiesta rack before? Just wondered if they’re the same?
I haven't sorry but i believe the mk6 is hydraulic (does it have a fluid pot) so is it is you would have to remove disconnected all the pipes and drain the fluid. Also I'm sure the sub frame is different but should secure in place in a simular fashion, hope this helps, thank you for watching
@@Martysworkshop ok mate, thanks for that.
Great video,
Question my sons car going around an roundabout at 10 mph hit a ice patch car slid over to the left curb and hit it ,the front passenger side wheel buckled in where it jammed on the back part of the wheel arch and the top of the wheel was coming out pass the top of the arch, and the bottom part off the wheel was tilted in, only miner groove to the wheel but enough to buy new wheel.
We got the car up once towed back home,
With wheel off the damage was as follows,
bent in wish bone,
broken drop link that connected to the anti roll bar,
Bent steering rack bar where the track rod end is threaded on
my question is ,he definitely was only going 10 mph around the roundabout at the time as he was worried about the ice on the road at that time of the morning,
if I check for play in the steering like you had done and its good can we just buy a new bar that the rubber gaiter covers , its the bar that you removed the gaiter on your steering rack,,
I know parts are meant to break and bend to take the brunt of impacted to save other parts damaging,
But should we be concerned about anything else to check and test that we can`t see any damage to,I Was concerned about the drive shaft end bit with the cv boot on as the impacted bent the wish bone,?
Hello, I wouldn't worry about the rack as the tie rod end is the weak component so that has absorbed the damage, you can unscrew the tie rod out of the rack and replace it so wouldn’t worry about it, ony thing is it can be quite awkward to unscrew, there is a tool for the job but would cost a bit, hope this helps
@@Martysworkshop cheers i have the tool all ready on a old job,
why cant you align the front wheels correctly and remove the ignition key so that the steering is locked making the new rack to go only in the correct position on reassembly thanks for your informative video
Well I guess it's very important that the wheel doesn't move so just a precaution really, thank you for watching,
So, what do we do if we don't know the torque specs to tighten the subframe?
I didn't torque them to be honest just gave them a firm tightening with a 1/2" power bar
Have you ever done one on a Ford C-Max 2008 petrol?
I have not sorry, i would say it would have a much larger subframe.
@@Martysworkshop np bud ty for relying
Hi there, how long did it take? Thanks
I can do this job an about 3-4 hours. It can vary on what tools your using and experience. Hope this helps
I just changed my steering rack and my steering wheel is super hard, anything I did wrong?
Hello this type of rack has an electric assist in the steering colum, so my best guess is that this has faulted for some reason, did you secure the steering wheel while you changed the rack? Also is there any warnings on the dash?
@@Martysworkshop yes there is a warning of a steering with an exclamation mark. secure how? I don't think it was secured
In this video i cable tied the steering wheel to the gear stick because there is sensors and a squib in the steering colum that are set to to position of the rack, thats why you put the steering wheel in the straight on position and secure it because the new steering rack should be set in the middle position, so it sounds like your steering system has lost the steering wheel position, I'm afraid it needs to be plugged into a computer to check, it may be as simple as relearning the steering position with a computer or could be more. Hope this helps
Can u lower the subframe on its own without the rack?
The bolts are on the top of the rack so might be difficult to remove with the suffrage up,
I'm currently mid-way through this repair. One of the 18mm head subframe bolts was refusing to come out. I used my torque wrench to get it out. Now it's not going back in. It gets halfway and stops. I tried the other bolt which went into the other slot fine and it has the same issue, so I think something in the hole is causing it.
I considered at first using a tap or making my own. Then I read that these bolts are stretch bolts and need to be replaced. Then I read the comment below about someone breaking their captive nuts. What's the most sensible option from you guys' experience? This also took much longer than it looks in the video.
Hello my bolts came out easily when I made this video tbh, so I would first of all wire brush the bolts if you haven't already done so then find a nut the same size and thread, even better a die if you have a tap set, then run that down the bolt if it goes tight then the bolts may be stretched or deformed, I would try to rectify the thread with a die rather than tapping the captive nut buy if the threads are damaged then that may need a tap run in it too,
@@Martysworkshop Ok would the tap or die need to have the same thread spacing as the bolt for it to work?
Yes you would need to match it to the bolt
@@Martysworkshop Ok I just gave the bolt to an engineer friend who's going to look for a die at work
@@Martysworkshop A month later and my steering performance is much better. I noticed that there is increased engine noise in the car. The steering shaft boot isn't quite flush with the hole and it caused a small dent in the body when putting it in place. Would you recommend using adhesives to seal the boot in place? I really don't want to take it off again...
5:53 which od that screw removal extension foto that bolt
I am not sure what you mean sorry
which extension is for removing that screw
How the heck did u get the screw out that u have to access thru the wishbone?
I see alot of people have trouble with this bolt! Mine came undone easily, I beleve the captive nit can spin causing trouble
What size/ kind of socket did you use? If u can remember
How do you fix the airbag light, no hooter and the controls on the steering not working??? Help
Did you replace the steering rack prior to this fault?
@@Martysworkshop I also have the same problem of the hooter, airbag and controls it started when I changed my steering rack please help me how can I fix it?
Did you put old rack in the straight ahead position and secure the steering wheel during replacement?
No I did noticed and the steering was not secured
I'm afraid you have broken your clock spring, also known squib. It's a circle device under the steering wheel that allows the wiring to rotate without Breaking, it would need to be replaced.
👍👍👍
Thank you for watching
I have same problem my fiesta where is your garage
I don't have one sorry
@@Martysworkshop Thank you very much for sharing the video. You did a good job.
Thank you for you support
Hi
How do I get to speak to this guy?
What's the problem?
Hey mate you can I ask. You a question
Sure what's up?