Not only that. When you upgrade the CSF radiators it is not longer needed insulation or plastic frame support for the AC condenser. Another advantage is the OEM and CSF cost around the same in the US so you can import it to your country "fairly priced" (and not going to the stealership).
Mike, super video as always!! Two quick questions if you do not mind. I have 2002 Carrera with 51,000 miles and live in the northeast. I will be doing the coolant flush for the first time. Would you recommend any other coolant besides Porsche and is it more effective to not dilute? Also, more because of age would you upgrade to new radiators to prevent issues going forward? I would appreciate your expertise. Thank you. Andy
Thanks, Andrew! While there may be aftermarket brands that may work, I would recommend sticking with the Genuine coolant, simply due to how delicate these systems can be. You will always want to dilute the concentrated coolant 50/50 with distilled water to get the proper "performance" out of it. In addition to your 996, the miles are low, so it has not seen as many heat cycles as a typical 20-year-old car. However with that being said, those components are 20 years old, so if you have the opportunity to do some preventative maintenance/upgrades while you do a flush, I would encourage it. -Mike
Awesome tutorial. I noticed that torque specs were omitted on the re-install. In general, are the fasteners involved in this project fairly non-critical (I.e., just go guddentite)?
Hi Simos! Aside from the drain plugs being torqued back down to spec, the remainder of the hardware just needs the old calibrated wrist. All the hardware around the radiators (shrouds) is snug up (10nm).
Well... thanks for the tutorial mate... What is your opinion about using lub PN 00004320593. Workshop Manual says you have to apply each time you connect hoses (not relying of coolant for lubrication). As I remember, from 997.2 onwards you have to use Piwis to make a final bubble elimination, failure to do it can cause overheat. Is that true for the 997? Certainly for the 991 it is... and no third party scanner can trigger the procedure, just Piwis, meaning in it is beyond the DIY toolbox.
Hi Red, certainly a good note about the lubricant. For the type of seal that was and the application on the 997, the coolant used will work just fine. Using a good vacuum filler will handle the fill procedure just fine, allowing the majority of the small spaces to be filled with coolant. From there it would be a matter of running the heat on the highest temp setting to allow the heater core to fill, at which you can also use the integrated bleed valve in the expansion tank to bleed out any minor air bubbles left behind.
”My good people“, always so nice.. 👍
I love when he says that!
Best DIY I’ve seen. Thanks!
Good job, Mike, my good man. Always, nice to see you work, and to see your work.
La piezas de recambio no son las originales, pero le da una mejora increíble y sigue vivo este hermoso nueveonce.
Not only that. When you upgrade the CSF radiators it is not longer needed insulation or plastic frame support for the AC condenser. Another advantage is the OEM and CSF cost around the same in the US so you can import it to your country "fairly priced" (and not going to the stealership).
Great video. I was wondering are the CSF units lighter?
Hi: on the driver's side, is it the same setup.. radiator behind the AC condenser?
Hi, same process for both sides!
Mike, super video as always!! Two quick questions if you do not mind. I have 2002 Carrera with 51,000 miles and live in the northeast. I will be doing the coolant flush for the first time. Would you recommend any other coolant besides Porsche and is it more effective to not dilute? Also, more because of age would you upgrade to new radiators to prevent issues going forward? I would appreciate your expertise. Thank you. Andy
Thanks, Andrew! While there may be aftermarket brands that may work, I would recommend sticking with the Genuine coolant, simply due to how delicate these systems can be. You will always want to dilute the concentrated coolant 50/50 with distilled water to get the proper "performance" out of it. In addition to your 996, the miles are low, so it has not seen as many heat cycles as a typical 20-year-old car. However with that being said, those components are 20 years old, so if you have the opportunity to do some preventative maintenance/upgrades while you do a flush, I would encourage it. -Mike
Mike, thank you for explaining in detail. I appreciate it.
Awesome tutorial. I noticed that torque specs were omitted on the re-install. In general, are the fasteners involved in this project fairly non-critical (I.e., just go guddentite)?
Hi Simos! Aside from the drain plugs being torqued back down to spec, the remainder of the hardware just needs the old calibrated wrist. All the hardware around the radiators (shrouds) is snug up (10nm).
@@fcpeuro many thanks for the reply!
Hi Mike. Do you have an oil change video for a 2014 Porsche 911 (991.1)
We do not currently, but we hope to get our hands on one soon!
Well... thanks for the tutorial mate... What is your opinion about using lub PN 00004320593. Workshop Manual says you have to apply each time you connect hoses (not relying of coolant for lubrication). As I remember, from 997.2 onwards you have to use Piwis to make a final bubble elimination, failure to do it can cause overheat. Is that true for the 997? Certainly for the 991 it is... and no third party scanner can trigger the procedure, just Piwis, meaning in it is beyond the DIY toolbox.
Hi Red, certainly a good note about the lubricant. For the type of seal that was and the application on the 997, the coolant used will work just fine. Using a good vacuum filler will handle the fill procedure just fine, allowing the majority of the small spaces to be filled with coolant. From there it would be a matter of running the heat on the highest temp setting to allow the heater core to fill, at which you can also use the integrated bleed valve in the expansion tank to bleed out any minor air bubbles left behind.
💯💯💯