Did the front wings to my 1999 MGF 8 years ago. Had same issues. The rust starts on splitting paint on the sharp edges and then gets underneath the paint and spreads. Stripped off the paint around the rust areas after taking the wings off, used rust remover, worked well overnight. Then resprayed with 2k filler primer, basecoat and 2k lacquer. Still fine after 8 years or so. If you use body filler and 2k filler primer, no need to over do the 'feathering edges sanded', a little sanding of body filler and 2k filler primer is all that is needed. I also applied underseal to the inside of the wings before putting back on. Had to do the rear wing, around the rear air vents, and rear part of the lower outer sills, taught me a lot about MIG welding, body repairs and respraying with a proper gun and compressor. Still have the car in my garage.
The amount of times I've said "bollocks" in that exact tone @ 21:09 ... feel your pain. Great stuff Lee, really enjoying this. All may not go to plan but at least you've given it a go. I'd wait for the right deal on a set of wings if you're more comfortable doing that. Leave your wings the way they are. Can't go chasing perfection. Look fine.
Loving your ongoing series. I bought an 'F' late last year and your approach much more closely mirrors what is possible for me and probably many others...so is that much more useful! I don't have the patience between swearing and mistakes to film my work so power to you! 😉
Nice job thanks for showing the full process. Personally I'd never be happy unless the finish was perfect, and would leave it to a professional. New wings is a great idea probably the cheapest way of doing it. Its getting harder to find a car with good bodywork but it's a must on these cars in my opinion. Loving the videos Lee thank you. Watching them makes me want to try out more on my own TF. I have tackled a few jobs myself, wheel arch rust(inside the arches only) stainless underfloor pipes, fog light install, front wishbones and sub frame mounts, soft ride suspension, new exhaust, B&G low coolant alarm, new one piece glass window roof(had to sell this and I changed back to original I couldn't put it down properly with my xpower roll hoops on) .... and many more the list goes on.😆 Hope you get some summer driving in, it puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel.
Always look forward to your latest video update Lee as I'm on a similar journey but without the rust issues. I've just had a demorilising setback with mine as having finished the engine rebuild and after a few times having the engine running I checked the dipstick and to my horror found some white deposits on the end suggesting water in the oil, oh no😩. Anyway off with the head again and cant find anything of particular note so stumped. Not even convinced I have any water in the oil having drained it, wonder if it was just condensation as engine never really got hot as not taxed yet to drive. Anyway some head scratching to do now. I had fitted the elastomer head gasket and have now ordered the mls one so will see if it makes any difference. Anyway to summerise if I were you I would leave the wings for now and just get it up and running so at least you can put the engine functioning to rest and hopefully enjoy a few spins in it now that spring has almost sprung. Fingers crossed it goes better than mine has!
Lee it is a case of experience. I started like you are now and I am now using a 24 litre compressor and air gun for great results painting my Mgf bumpers etc. Keep going. Only thing I would say is that when I was at this stage I treated the rust, primed and painted the inner of the wing. A few hrs work and peace of mind. I have just converted my seats to heated seats which was an easy task. Would you consider doing this and filming it?
Really enjoying this series, I just bought one 2 weeks back and seeing the car in pieces like this is really interesting. I wouldn't pay too much attention to armchair experts and just enjoy the journey like you are, I discovered in the Mini world everyone has their opinion of how things should be done.
Excellent video again, Lee. I’ve just done the same job on my wife’s Seat, which she parked in a pillar and it’s a pig of a job to get anything close to a factory finish so you’ve done really well. When I had the wing off my TF, I slapped half a gallon of Hammerite on those crusty patches you can’t see because I’m paranoid! I’m glad you said you were moving because I really wanted to clean off your garden fencing!
I had a go at painting mine and I had the same issues as you have had, it annoys me so much that I am going to have the whole car professionally painted. Great video.
Good work Lee, I'm glad to see you show the true process and your mistakes. You could have maybe tried high build primer to help fill small marks like where you only sanded the rust to save taking the whole panel back to bare metal. And before you got over the wings with a machine polisher, wet sand them both start at around 1500 and go upto at least 3000 then get the polisher on, you'll get much better results
Hi Lee, considering you were painting this outside I thought it was a good effort, personally I wouldn't worry to much about the finish, its a dam sight better than rust, hopefully the rust converter will prevent it coming back, its great you had a go at repairing it instead of throwing it away. I think taking the time to save what parts you can makes it more interesting for us following your progress. Another entertaining video well done!
Haha finally the wings, i think you’ve good have done a better job Lee. I thought you were gonna repair with polyester. Oke I still don’t know what to do with my wings, I think I try almost the same job you have done. Thanks again Lee it was fun to watch 😊
Looks like a pretty good job to me. I’d have thought stripping and repainting the whole panel is better to get an even finish, and with a colour like metallic silver it sometimes needs blending with the panels next to it to get a seamless finish. Enjoyed the video, looking forward to seeing it on the road!
Absolutely love your channel. I have a 02TF that needs some work, plus it's my first ever car so this is a great help in figuring out how and where to start! Out of interest, are you planning any repairs on the rear panels? I know they are so much harder to fix just because you can't really get them off like the front ones. My rear wheel arch has some (quite a bit of..) rust and it would be interesting to see how you tackle that.
Great work mate. I’m going to be dropping the rear subframe next week. New fame and clutch whilst the engines out. Hopefully going to put a video together as the ones on here don’t show anything.
Great effort! Keep it up. I’d say leave the wings for now and enjoy getting it on the road. Looking forward to the start up video. I gave my soft top a new lease of life this weekend with a good clean, more black and proofed with some Renovo products :-)
Another REALLY useful video for me, Lee, - thanks a lot. I bought a couple of well-used wings for my track MGF, as spares for the future, since I'm sure to bend them! They're rusted in almost the exact same places as yours. Your tips here will help me a lot in prepping them, as I've no background. When you removed the badge, which had been stuck on, do you think a bit of gentle heat from a heat gun might enable the black residue to be scraped off, as you started doing, without the need for the sander? - Just a thought.
Back when I was 21 I bought my first car, a Cortina Mk2 1300 DeLuxe with very faded metalic blue paintwork. The rear arches had a little bit of bubbling and I decided I would have a go at a repair job. I must have had a friend giving moral support and advice but I can’t recall who. I took the plunge and started rubbing down, with the inevitable result that it revealed more and more rusting than the few bubbles had suggested. I slapped some filler in and rubbed it down to the best of my very limited ability. I then decided what the car needed was a respray in black. I wanted to debadge it so nobody knew it was a humble 1300. I got some black paint and using a brush I painted out the chrome parts of the grille so it looked like a GT or Lotus grille. I found a father and son paint shop working in a lock-up who gave me a cheap price for the respray. Needless to say, my efforts on the rear arches were put right by them in the process. That was the first and last time I tried my hand at bodywork repair. I’m 68 now and watching this brings back all the unpleasant feelings of lack of experience and that I’d wasted my time trying, and given up to easily, thinking that it’s best left to the professionals and I’d never develop their skills and abilities in a million years. I still have enthusiasm for cars, but I’m not hands-on in any sense. I admire your efforts and determination and hope you enjoy your journey. I will continue to follow it with interest.
Applying a good 2-component primer (base and hardener) thickly avoids this problem. When painting with the paint MBB, warm the fenders and paint with a hair dryer. Painting Siber Metallic is one of the most difficult jobs to avoid cloud formation, and wind is also fatal for the result. Well done despite everything!PS. I would also paint the clearcoat with only 2 components (base and hardener) system for optimal results.
You can get a good result with a rattle can but it takes time and preparation. Personally, and I am no body guy, I would not have filled the holes as you did; the rust will come back and the filler will drop out. There are enough panels out there that a replacement would have been a better option, even in the wrong colour. More primer would have helped, and you can keep wet flatting until you have got rid of any steps. Use a good filler primer, and lay it on in several thickish coats. More lacquer would also have helped I think, but wet flatted between coats, and a final machine polish when you were done. All in all, I would look for better panels; just keep an eye on eBay and ask around the enthusiast groups. However, time is marching on! Get it MoT’ed and enjoy it. Keep that job for the winter!
Hi Lee, been following the series with a lot of interest and much admiration. With regards to the painting, you could not have picked a harder colour to match/ repair. I worked at Longbridge in paint and even though Starlight was a mainline colour it was still a bugger to ensure that the coats were evenly applied. Great effort though. In all honesty I d scrap your wings and as a few others have suggested keep your eye out for some decent replacements but be advised the colour match may still be ‘off’ due to age, and the different paint chemical variations when ‘new’ versions of Starlight ( and other colours) were introduced during the life of the TF. Keep them coming.
Good effort.. If it was me I wouldn't make a decision on the wings until the rest of the car had been properly machined polished then see whats what... Looking forward to hearing it run though 👍
Lee if you buy 2nd hand.panels they will have age related marks also. Then your back to square one. I would order from DH autopaint in North of England and go over both panels again. You won't see any difference to the other panels.
I’d carry on and replace with a good second hand painted panel when you’ve moved. Also recommend taking a break to drink beer in your new garden. Hope it goes well.
The one colour I will not do myself, silver, will always take to a professional body shop to colour match (like my Mum's Peugeot last year, which is silver, did the body repair and 2k primer only). Even pressure, aromosation etc effects the match to the original. My MGF is Tahiti Blue pearl, very easy to spray and get a match. Reason I avoid a silver car in case it ever needs to be sprayed!
Good effort, silver is tough to match I know you said you're happy with the match but on the video it looks completely different to the doors. I've rattle canned and feathered in on mine (flat red) and am not happy... ultimately mines gonna be a complete professional respray but its big bucks so depends on what you are happy with.
@@harrisonmurphy2424 probably a question of the notorious nature of metallic paints. Drivers side wing looked different to the door and passenger side looked darker though such a judgement based on video is unreliable, maybe I'm wrong but my mother's Audi had similar issues after a repair and they modified it by misting over the new paint with a different silver. The main think is the paints protecting the metal, aesthetic issues can be sorted at leisure.
I have tried Starlight Silver from 2 different suppliers and both are nowhere near a match for the original paint, even allowing for the age difference. The curse of silver paint and rattle cans I fear.
Rome wasn't built in a day. Good work on the wings, its time to keep moving forward. Get her running, MoT'd and come back to the paint during the summer. That doesn't mean this summer, just a summer. MG's are the cars that keep on giving - problems. One after another.
lmao my hood did exactly the same lee at least rover was consistent in their f**kups lol, get her on the road for a year / season and see how your repairs hold up before you go back and revisit wing heaven. I'd avoid using white spirit during painting as it can be a little greasy, better to use fpol panel cleaner between painting.
Great vid , leave the wings , get it mot'd , drop the top and rag arse it to death , enjoy the car , jobs can wait and have fun with the car , keep up the good work
Top tip, buy some 39% HYDROCHLORIC acid, and brush it onto the areas you have removed rust from. Rinse with water and repeat until the acid no longer turns yellow. What you are doing is killing the INTERGRANULAR rust which is invisible but is where the rust started when the car was built. All cars should be pickled before painting. Anyway, the final rinse will flash rust. Buy some sheet zinc and cut into small pieces then dissolve it in some 96% PHOSPHORIC acid. When no more zinc will dissolve, brush the fluid onto the clean sheet metal. It will turn medium grey (Matt). You now have phosphated steel. A coat of "Zinga" cold galv paint and I GUARANTEE that panel will NEVER rust again. I live by the sea,and have a sheet done like this as a tester. 5 years on of exposure to salt spray, sun, hail, rain etc and not even a pinspot of rust.
Also don't use wd40 anywhere near areas that you will be painting; it can affect adhesion. Use proper panel wipe not white spirit as it isn't really the right stuff.
Get the MOT and start enjoying the car in a different way. You better have a rolling project that just keeps rolling, than a static project that just ends with being static.
One question: I want to support your revenue generation but I got the same long advert three times with the patronising woman telling me I should let her share my compensation for diesel emissions cheats. I confess I skipped the last one. Do you make enough off these that I really need to sit through all of them? You can only go to the loo or get a cuppa so many times during a half-hour video!
Did the front wings to my 1999 MGF 8 years ago. Had same issues. The rust starts on splitting paint on the sharp edges and then gets underneath the paint and spreads. Stripped off the paint around the rust areas after taking the wings off, used rust remover, worked well overnight. Then resprayed with 2k filler primer, basecoat and 2k lacquer. Still fine after 8 years or so. If you use body filler and 2k filler primer, no need to over do the 'feathering edges sanded', a little sanding of body filler and 2k filler primer is all that is needed. I also applied underseal to the inside of the wings before putting back on. Had to do the rear wing, around the rear air vents, and rear part of the lower outer sills, taught me a lot about MIG welding, body repairs and respraying with a proper gun and compressor. Still have the car in my garage.
The amount of times I've said "bollocks" in that exact tone @ 21:09 ... feel your pain. Great stuff Lee, really enjoying this. All may not go to plan but at least you've given it a go. I'd wait for the right deal on a set of wings if you're more comfortable doing that. Leave your wings the way they are. Can't go chasing perfection. Look fine.
I was hoping no one would notice! Lol 😆
Loving your ongoing series. I bought an 'F' late last year and your approach much more closely mirrors what is possible for me and probably many others...so is that much more useful! I don't have the patience between swearing and mistakes to film my work so power to you! 😉
Ahh thanks... and trust me.... there's swearing!!! Lol 😆
@@wheatleysworkshopno worries, credit where credits due.
Nice job thanks for showing the full process. Personally I'd never be happy unless the finish was perfect, and would leave it to a professional. New wings is a great idea probably the cheapest way of doing it. Its getting harder to find a car with good bodywork but it's a must on these cars in my opinion.
Loving the videos Lee thank you. Watching them makes me want to try out more on my own TF. I have tackled a few jobs myself, wheel arch rust(inside the arches only) stainless underfloor pipes, fog light install, front wishbones and sub frame mounts, soft ride suspension, new exhaust, B&G low coolant alarm, new one piece glass window roof(had to sell this and I changed back to original I couldn't put it down properly with my xpower roll hoops on) .... and many more the list goes on.😆
Hope you get some summer driving in, it puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel.
Always look forward to your latest video update Lee as I'm on a similar journey but without the rust issues. I've just had a demorilising setback with mine as having finished the engine rebuild and after a few times having the engine running I checked the dipstick and to my horror found some white deposits on the end suggesting water in the oil, oh no😩. Anyway off with the head again and cant find anything of particular note so stumped. Not even convinced I have any water in the oil having drained it, wonder if it was just condensation as engine never really got hot as not taxed yet to drive. Anyway some head scratching to do now. I had fitted the elastomer head gasket and have now ordered the mls one so will see if it makes any difference. Anyway to summerise if I were you I would leave the wings for now and just get it up and running so at least you can put the engine functioning to rest and hopefully enjoy a few spins in it now that spring has almost sprung. Fingers crossed it goes better than mine has!
Lee it is a case of experience. I started like you are now and I am now using a 24 litre compressor and air gun for great results painting my Mgf bumpers etc. Keep going. Only thing I would say is that when I was at this stage I treated the rust, primed and painted the inner of the wing. A few hrs work and peace of mind. I have just converted my seats to heated seats which was an easy task. Would you consider doing this and filming it?
Good video
Just purchased a TF myself so a useful insight into what I may have in store!
Good stuff Lee !
Really enjoying this series, I just bought one 2 weeks back and seeing the car in pieces like this is really interesting.
I wouldn't pay too much attention to armchair experts and just enjoy the journey like you are, I discovered in the Mini world everyone has their opinion of how things should be done.
Excellent video again, Lee. I’ve just done the same job on my wife’s Seat, which she parked in a pillar and it’s a pig of a job to get anything close to a factory finish so you’ve done really well. When I had the wing off my TF, I slapped half a gallon of Hammerite on those crusty patches you can’t see because I’m paranoid! I’m glad you said you were moving because I really wanted to clean off your garden fencing!
😆😆
I had a go at painting mine and I had the same issues as you have had, it annoys me so much that I am going to have the whole car professionally painted. Great video.
Good work Lee, I'm glad to see you show the true process and your mistakes. You could have maybe tried high build primer to help fill small marks like where you only sanded the rust to save taking the whole panel back to bare metal.
And before you got over the wings with a machine polisher, wet sand them both start at around 1500 and go upto at least 3000 then get the polisher on, you'll get much better results
Hi Lee, considering you were painting this outside I thought it was a good effort, personally I wouldn't worry to much about the finish, its a dam sight better than rust, hopefully the rust converter will prevent it coming back, its great you had a go at repairing it instead of throwing it away.
I think taking the time to save what parts you can makes it more interesting for us following your progress. Another entertaining video well done!
The rust converter won't stop rust coming back he should really paint over the stuff he's left on the inner arch...
The rust converter won't stop rust coming back he should really paint over the stuff he's left on the inner arch...
I'm sure this video would have been edited Alex, are you sure Lee didn't paint it? he probably showed us the highlights.
Haha finally the wings, i think you’ve good have done a better job Lee. I thought you were gonna repair with polyester. Oke I still don’t know what to do with my wings, I think I try almost the same job you have done. Thanks again Lee it was fun to watch 😊
Always very sympathetic video. Greetings from Germany .
Looks like a pretty good job to me. I’d have thought stripping and repainting the whole panel is better to get an even finish, and with a colour like metallic silver it sometimes needs blending with the panels next to it to get a seamless finish. Enjoyed the video, looking forward to seeing it on the road!
Lee for a perfect paint match I use DH Autopaint. I have never noticed any difference to the aged paint. Perfect job each time.
Absolutely love your channel. I have a 02TF that needs some work, plus it's my first ever car so this is a great help in figuring out how and where to start! Out of interest, are you planning any repairs on the rear panels? I know they are so much harder to fix just because you can't really get them off like the front ones. My rear wheel arch has some (quite a bit of..) rust and it would be interesting to see how you tackle that.
Great work mate. I’m going to be dropping the rear subframe next week. New fame and clutch whilst the engines out. Hopefully going to put a video together as the ones on here don’t show anything.
Great effort! Keep it up. I’d say leave the wings for now and enjoy getting it on the road. Looking forward to the start up video. I gave my soft top a new lease of life this weekend with a good clean, more black and proofed with some Renovo products :-)
Another REALLY useful video for me, Lee, - thanks a lot.
I bought a couple of well-used wings for my track MGF, as spares for the future, since I'm sure to bend them! They're rusted in almost the exact same places as yours. Your tips here will help me a lot in prepping them, as I've no background.
When you removed the badge, which had been stuck on, do you think a bit of gentle heat from a heat gun might enable the black residue to be scraped off, as you started doing, without the need for the sander? - Just a thought.
very satisfying to se rustwork being done - it is also a good reminder why I should not get a TF, even if I really like it ☺
Just done first of my wings keep up the good work
Back when I was 21 I bought my first car, a Cortina Mk2 1300 DeLuxe with very faded metalic blue paintwork. The rear arches had a little bit of bubbling and I decided I would have a go at a repair job. I must have had a friend giving moral support and advice but I can’t recall who. I took the plunge and started rubbing down, with the inevitable result that it revealed more and more rusting than the few bubbles had suggested. I slapped some filler in and rubbed it down to the best of my very limited ability. I then decided what the car needed was a respray in black. I wanted to debadge it so nobody knew it was a humble 1300. I got some black paint and using a brush I painted out the chrome parts of the grille so it looked like a GT or Lotus grille. I found a father and son paint shop working in a lock-up who gave me a cheap price for the respray. Needless to say, my efforts on the rear arches were put right by them in the process. That was the first and last time I tried my hand at bodywork repair. I’m 68 now and watching this brings back all the unpleasant feelings of lack of experience and that I’d wasted my time trying, and given up to easily, thinking that it’s best left to the professionals and I’d never develop their skills and abilities in a million years. I still have enthusiasm for cars, but I’m not hands-on in any sense. I admire your efforts and determination and hope you enjoy your journey. I will continue to follow it with interest.
Sounds like we're on the same path here! Lol
Applying a good 2-component primer (base and hardener) thickly avoids this problem.
When painting with the paint MBB, warm the fenders and paint with a hair dryer.
Painting Siber Metallic is one of the most difficult jobs to avoid cloud formation, and wind is also fatal for the result.
Well done despite everything!PS.
I would also paint the clearcoat with only 2 components (base and hardener) system for optimal results.
You can get a good result with a rattle can but it takes time and preparation. Personally, and I am no body guy, I would not have filled the holes as you did; the rust will come back and the filler will drop out. There are enough panels out there that a replacement would have been a better option, even in the wrong colour. More primer would have helped, and you can keep wet flatting until you have got rid of any steps. Use a good filler primer, and lay it on in several thickish coats. More lacquer would also have helped I think, but wet flatted between coats, and a final machine polish when you were done. All in all, I would look for better panels; just keep an eye on eBay and ask around the enthusiast groups. However, time is marching on! Get it MoT’ed and enjoy it. Keep that job for the winter!
Hi Lee, been following the series with a lot of interest and much admiration. With regards to the painting, you could not have picked a harder colour to match/ repair. I worked at Longbridge in paint and even though Starlight was a mainline colour it was still a bugger to ensure that the coats were evenly applied. Great effort though. In all honesty I d scrap your wings and as a few others have suggested keep your eye out for some decent replacements but be advised the colour match may still be ‘off’ due to age, and the different paint chemical variations when ‘new’ versions of Starlight ( and other colours) were introduced during the life of the TF. Keep them coming.
If I were you I would keep an eye out for a couple of good second hand wings and get them professionally painted.
I think it looks great, can hardly notice any defects in the paint, at least from the film.
Good effort.. If it was me I wouldn't make a decision on the wings until the rest of the car had been properly machined polished then see whats what... Looking forward to hearing it run though 👍
Lee if you buy 2nd hand.panels they will have age related marks also. Then your back to square one. I would order from DH autopaint in North of England and go over both panels again. You won't see any difference to the other panels.
I would carry on with other jobs and wait for a good pair of wings to turn up. Starlight silver was a popular colour.
Thanks for sharing
I’d carry on and replace with a good second hand painted panel when you’ve moved. Also recommend taking a break to drink beer in your new garden. Hope it goes well.
Cheers Michael 🍻
I'd carry on with the rest of the car and deal with repainting at a later date. Always tonnes of other jobs to do on an MG!
Silver is a bugger to match...Good try and keep going 👏
The one colour I will not do myself, silver, will always take to a professional body shop to colour match (like my Mum's Peugeot last year, which is silver, did the body repair and 2k primer only). Even pressure, aromosation etc effects the match to the original. My MGF is Tahiti Blue pearl, very easy to spray and get a match. Reason I avoid a silver car in case it ever needs to be sprayed!
Good effort, silver is tough to match I know you said you're happy with the match but on the video it looks completely different to the doors.
I've rattle canned and feathered in on mine (flat red) and am not happy... ultimately mines gonna be a complete professional respray but its big bucks so depends on what you are happy with.
Is that not a question of the paint on the doors and other areas being in some need of some TLC as well as the questionable "starlight silver"
@@harrisonmurphy2424 probably a question of the notorious nature of metallic paints.
Drivers side wing looked different to the door and passenger side looked darker though such a judgement based on video is unreliable, maybe I'm wrong but my mother's Audi had similar issues after a repair and they modified it by misting over the new paint with a different silver.
The main think is the paints protecting the metal, aesthetic issues can be sorted at leisure.
I have tried Starlight Silver from 2 different suppliers and both are nowhere near a match for the original paint, even allowing for the age difference. The curse of silver paint and rattle cans I fear.
How my rear aches are on both sides 🙈🥺
Rome wasn't built in a day. Good work on the wings, its time to keep moving forward. Get her running, MoT'd and come back to the paint during the summer. That doesn't mean this summer, just a summer. MG's are the cars that keep on giving - problems. One after another.
Leave it and do it later, first enyo driving it in the summer 😎
lmao my hood did exactly the same lee at least rover was consistent in their f**kups lol, get her on the road for a year / season and see how your repairs hold up before you go back and revisit wing heaven. I'd avoid using white spirit during painting as it can be a little greasy, better to use fpol panel cleaner between painting.
Great vid , leave the wings , get it mot'd , drop the top and rag arse it to death , enjoy the car , jobs can wait and have fun with the car , keep up the good work
Top tip, buy some 39% HYDROCHLORIC acid, and brush it onto the areas you have removed rust from. Rinse with water and repeat until the acid no longer turns yellow. What you are doing is killing the INTERGRANULAR rust which is invisible but is where the rust started when the car was built. All cars should be pickled before painting. Anyway, the final rinse will flash rust.
Buy some sheet zinc and cut into small pieces then dissolve it in some 96% PHOSPHORIC acid. When no more zinc will dissolve, brush the fluid onto the clean sheet metal. It will turn medium grey (Matt). You now have phosphated steel. A coat of "Zinga" cold galv paint and I GUARANTEE that panel will NEVER rust again. I live by the sea,and have a sheet done like this as a tester. 5 years on of exposure to salt spray, sun, hail, rain etc and not even a pinspot of rust.
Also don't use wd40 anywhere near areas that you will be painting; it can affect adhesion. Use proper panel wipe not white spirit as it isn't really the right stuff.
Get the MOT and start enjoying the car in a different way.
You better have a rolling project that just keeps rolling, than a static project that just ends with being static.
Go
One question: I want to support your revenue generation but I got the same long advert three times with the patronising woman telling me I should let her share my compensation for diesel emissions cheats. I confess I skipped the last one. Do you make enough off these that I really need to sit through all of them? You can only go to the loo or get a cuppa so many times during a half-hour video!
Bare metal the whole wing