Fill sump with clear kerosene. Use a fresh filter. Run motor for no more than 5 minutes. Immediately drain the sump. The entire motor is now flushed. Now, IMMEDIATELY add a fresh filter and the correct spec crank fluid, run the motor 20 minutes, drain and fill again. Why? The kerosene strips chemicals from gaskets and seals and will continue to do so until diluted. There’s a slower way, also! Run an oil with a slightly lower cold flow rate than the motor specs and add a half-a-quart extra. (Example, running 0W20 instead of 5W20.) Then change the oil after 1500 miles, on the nose. Doing this a few times will do the same thing, albeit it nowhere near as thoroughly or as quickly but that can be a life saver with really fouled up motors! Slow and steady, steady and slow.
Como amigo es sacar el aceite viejo y reemplazarlo completamente con puro keroseno? Hacer funcionar el motor por 3:30, 4:20 minutos hacer un doble cambio de aceite para eliminar el keroseno???? 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
@@DostiesGarage would love to see that. I have a 2020 nissan versa with 62000 miles on it so far and I have been maintaining it like a baby. The cvt has given me 0 issues so far and the engine runs like new so far. Very simple engine bay.
Use BG EPR Flush, it works better then anything I have used. My engine was as bad as yours and it completely removed all the varnish which is what is still on your engine after you did the flush
this engine is well cared for, there is no noticeable sludge, this was not necessary. the results are as expected. switching to an Ester based oil for a normal mileage cycle would probably do as well if not better
For that many K's your engine was clean already from the start. DOHC are always dirtier at the top as the oil doesn't flow around as easily up there and most of the condensation and vapours from PCV settle there. Some of that patina is meant to be there as it is partially oil additives and film. If it wasn't your engine would be dead.
Your not a serious technician. 1.50 This engine is not dirty for 200dkm, you can not see the valves, you see the cams and they are varnished on the non loaded parts, nothing is burned.
I flush my coyote with a weed pump sprayer from home depot. I hook a 3/8 fuel line to the sprayer head and use a 1/4 NPT air compressor fitting to thread into the Oil Pressure Sending unit threads on the block. For my car, that is next to the oil filter. I pre fill an oil filter then install, then i just pump 2 quarts of cheap , thin oil through it. Then i pull the oil filter, dump it out or use a new one, and put a quart of the appropriate oil(for my supercharged coyote i use 5w50) and just re prime the engine with that. It works great! Make sure you clean the hell out of the pump sprayer and run some oil through it into a container before pumping into the engine to make sure there's no lose plastic pieces. This method is great for just priming the engine or flushing out all the oiling channels and the lash adjusters/cam bearings/ etc etc.
On an 200m+ engine, why using a low density oil instead of 5W40? My Skoda Fabia mk1 uses 5w30 (factory new) but after 260.000km I use 5W40 and it runs better without noises
I was thinking the same thing, the directions on the bottle said 10-15 minutes at idle. I did not want to try something else and risk damaging components.
That was a Hart 3/8 cordless ratchet. I got mine at Walmart on sale for only 60 dollars battery included. Id suggest Milwaukee though because I’m having some issues with this tool not working properly
@@DostiesGarage I alternate between AmsOil and Liqui-Moly for over 10 years . As they are said to be detergent based , not solvent . So no damage to seals and gaskets . Though for a few times I used BG Products EPR to see any difference . Oil still came out golden colored . I let my oil drain for a full hour ! And remove the oil filter first to release vacuum . Then steady stream of oil and doesn't splatter .
@@DostiesGarageYes , had used AmsOil 0w20 , but now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and Amsoil filter . Though manual says to use 0w16 , it seemed engine was too noisey . Much quieter with 0w20 oil . And at every oil change I put 10 ounces of MotorKote , a anti-friction additive . Though I have other kinds I will use .
never run an engine with modified oil. the ONLY thing you could do that is worth doing is doing more oil changes. anything else is pointless and harmful
I agree oil changes are the best, but liqui moly is a great company. I usually don’t do additives, but if it’s something I will draining out afterwards than I can justify it.
@@DostiesGarage a product made for vehicles with much bigger tolerances and that required oil changes every 3K miles. it was for a time that junk was junk compared to what we have now. that trash you used is just trash that does nothing. seafoam kinda works but like your video, it has its use to clean an otherwise trashed neglected engine only to save it for a little more life.
Real simple: they don't work. Slow and steady wins the race.....2 or 3 short mileage oil changes using a high quality brand of oil and filter over a short period of time would do what you wish to accomplish. "Fast fix" stuff like this will definitely dislodge some carbon/sludge that possibly will clog a passage, the pump screen, or put the filter into bypass. The comment to fill your sump with Kerosene.......OMG! That has no lubricating properties whatsoever. Running that would give you the equivalent of an extra 40 to 60 thousand miles of wear on your engine.
Taking the engine apart and letting the viewer see the inside of the engine was helpful. Thank you
You’re welcome!
Fill sump with clear kerosene.
Use a fresh filter.
Run motor for no more than 5 minutes.
Immediately drain the sump.
The entire motor is now flushed.
Now, IMMEDIATELY add a fresh filter and the correct spec crank fluid, run the motor 20 minutes, drain and fill again. Why? The kerosene strips chemicals from gaskets and seals and will continue to do so until diluted.
There’s a slower way, also! Run an oil with a slightly lower cold flow rate than the motor specs and add a half-a-quart extra. (Example, running 0W20 instead of 5W20.) Then change the oil after 1500 miles, on the nose. Doing this a few times will do the same thing, albeit it nowhere near as thoroughly or as quickly but that can be a life saver with really fouled up motors! Slow and steady, steady and slow.
Como amigo es sacar el aceite viejo y reemplazarlo completamente con puro keroseno? Hacer funcionar el motor por 3:30, 4:20 minutos hacer un doble cambio de aceite para eliminar el keroseno???? 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Good job dude. I'm your newest subscriber. You didn't talk too much and drag it out, just about right.
Thank you, means a lot. More videos coming soon!
Engine looks great either way. Great video. I love seeing before and afters especially when it is about maintaining the vehicle for a long time.
@@jamesiv2456 thank you! I’m very interested in high mileage videos as well. I may do a full series just rebuilding various parts of this car.
@@DostiesGarage would love to see that. I have a 2020 nissan versa with 62000 miles on it so far and I have been maintaining it like a baby. The cvt has given me 0 issues so far and the engine runs like new so far. Very simple engine bay.
@@jamesiv2456 nice! Make sure to change the CVT fluid. I made a video illustrating how it’s done on a Honda but most CVTS are easy.
@@DostiesGarage it was changed at 45,000 , planning on getting it changed at 75,000
@@jamesiv2456 perfect, see if there’s a filter too, I doubt there is but always good to check
While looking at the camshafts: "Pretty dirty, valves look burnt." Nah bro, you haven't even looked at the valves.
Meant to say lobes*
Thank you for watching
@@DostiesGarage I'm just being nit picky. Sorry to be a jerk. Great channel, I enjoyed the video.
Use BG EPR Flush, it works better then anything I have used. My engine was as bad as yours and it completely removed all the varnish which is what is still on your engine after you did the flush
this engine is well cared for, there is no noticeable sludge, this was not necessary. the results are as expected. switching to an Ester based oil for a normal mileage cycle would probably do as well if not better
You are right it definitely was not necessary. Was still interesting to see the he before and after though
I’ve never heard of ester oil what is that?
@@DostiesGarage ester base is what is used in say helicopter turbines. you can find it from many makers in the high end categories MOTUL, REDLINE
Better to change the oil and filter, chuck it in and drive it for 20-30 miles, it will do more, then change the oil and filter again
Bruh YES with the Hart tools! Rarely see youtubers with them but they really KICK ASS!
Haha thank you! Believe it or not I got the battery and the 3/8 cordless for 70 bucks! Straight steal it was on sale
Always nice to see a before and after
Well done.
Thank you! I wanted to keep it simple and realistic
For that many K's your engine was clean already from the start. DOHC are always dirtier at the top as the oil doesn't flow around as easily up there and most of the condensation and vapours from PCV settle there. Some of that patina is meant to be there as it is partially oil additives and film. If it wasn't your engine would be dead.
Good to know thank you!
Your not a serious technician. 1.50 This engine is not dirty for 200dkm, you can not see the valves, you see the cams and they are varnished on the non loaded parts, nothing is burned.
*you’re
Did he claim to be a serious technician? Lol must of missed that part. Seems like a simple video made for fun
You are right, I am still learning. Thank you for watching
So after the flush, you'll really feel it when the V-Tec kicks in, yo!
It actually does feel more responsive now, although it’s got fresh oil too. Thanks for watching!
I flush my coyote with a weed pump sprayer from home depot. I hook a 3/8 fuel line to the sprayer head and use a 1/4 NPT air compressor fitting to thread into the Oil Pressure Sending unit threads on the block. For my car, that is next to the oil filter. I pre fill an oil filter then install, then i just pump 2 quarts of cheap , thin oil through it. Then i pull the oil filter, dump it out or use a new one, and put a quart of the appropriate oil(for my supercharged coyote i use 5w50) and just re prime the engine with that. It works great! Make sure you clean the hell out of the pump sprayer and run some oil through it into a container before pumping into the engine to make sure there's no lose plastic pieces.
This method is great for just priming the engine or flushing out all the oiling channels and the lash adjusters/cam bearings/ etc etc.
Great method! Thank you
That motor is clean for the amount of mileage it has done.
It definitely is, runs great
Straight to the point 👍
Thank you! That’s what I’m going for
Made a night and difference in my wife sienna van. Night and day.
@@JasonRoman-uq7nc nice!
How many miles on that Sienna?
Maybe change that oil at 5k and not 10-15k and you won’t have that issue
I usually go with 5k mile oil change intervals
On an 200m+ engine, why using a low density oil instead of 5W40? My Skoda Fabia mk1 uses 5w30 (factory new) but after 260.000km I use 5W40 and it runs better without noises
@@spikeyG I prefer to have stick with what the engine is used to running.. I usually get the best results that way
Come on Robot Voice
i dont think 15mins is long enough and what rpm's just idle or
I was thinking the same thing, the directions on the bottle said 10-15 minutes at idle. I did not want to try something else and risk damaging components.
Hopefully you adjusted the valves while you were in there
Yes I did, was a lot easier on this than my j series
1:48 where do you see valves in this shot?
Meant to say the lobes appeared burnt, although they aren’t burnt as others have pointed out they are just varnished.
nice arms
Для 15 минут нормальный результат. Можно было и больше погонять.
Definitely could of used it for more time, just didn’t wanna risk damaging anything
Great 👍 job thanks
You are welcome!
What's that tool you used dor removing the valve cover bolts?
That was a Hart 3/8 cordless ratchet. I got mine at Walmart on sale for only 60 dollars battery included. Id suggest Milwaukee though because I’m having some issues with this tool not working properly
@@DostiesGarage thanks alot mate
@@thefastelephant94 anytime
2:00 I've seen cars with under 50k look worse than this does at 200k
It looks like the previous owner maintained it pretty well
Use Liqui Moly Proline engine flush instead of using this. Definately you'll see the difference
I actually did not know about that one, should I do it on this engine for another video?
Just checked, the one in the video is the Pro line
Use it every oil change .
I think seafoam is best for basic cleaning, you use it like 500 miles before an oil change
@@DostiesGarage I alternate between AmsOil and Liqui-Moly for over 10 years . As they are said to be detergent based , not solvent . So no damage to seals and gaskets . Though for a few times I used BG Products EPR to see any difference . Oil still came out golden colored . I let my oil drain for a full hour ! And remove the oil filter first to release vacuum . Then steady stream of oil and doesn't splatter .
@@peterrudy9207 sounds like you take good care of your engine 👍🏼
@@DostiesGarageYes , had used AmsOil 0w20 , but now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and Amsoil filter . Though manual says to use 0w16 , it seemed engine was too noisey . Much quieter with 0w20 oil . And at every oil change I put 10 ounces of MotorKote , a anti-friction additive . Though I have other kinds I will use .
@@peterrudy9207 I use the same oil, I love pennzoil my cars always ran good on them
never run an engine with modified oil. the ONLY thing you could do that is worth doing is doing more oil changes. anything else is pointless and harmful
I agree oil changes are the best, but liqui moly is a great company. I usually don’t do additives, but if it’s something I will draining out afterwards than I can justify it.
@@DostiesGarage a product made for vehicles with much bigger tolerances and that required oil changes every 3K miles. it was for a time that junk was junk compared to what we have now. that trash you used is just trash that does nothing. seafoam kinda works but like your video, it has its use to clean an otherwise trashed neglected engine only to save it for a little more life.
@@timothywhieldon1971 your comment does not make much sense, but thank you for watching
You are very inexperienced on engines...must be your first look under the valve cover
@@glennthoday9740 thank you very much for watching! And also for your positive comment. It really helps my video a lot!
Wow!!! Lots of terrible advice given out by some of these keyboard mechanics…../smh
What are your thoughts on engine flushes?
Real simple: they don't work.
Slow and steady wins the race.....2 or 3 short mileage oil changes using a high quality brand of oil and filter over a short period of time would do what you wish to accomplish. "Fast fix" stuff like this will definitely dislodge some carbon/sludge that possibly will clog a passage, the pump screen, or put the filter into bypass.
The comment to fill your sump with Kerosene.......OMG! That has no lubricating properties whatsoever. Running that would give you the equivalent of an extra 40 to 60 thousand miles of wear on your engine.
Engine flushes do not work. The lack of proper maintenance will not be fixed by magic in a can. The damage is already done.
Thank you for watching and commenting
How can removing sludge be a bad thing?
@@Step-n-Wolf in some cases the sludge can clog oil passageways. If this happens you can have engine issues.