Links for stuff in this video - Our Repair Shop - DAP Repair www.daprepair.com/ Our VW and Audi Parts Site www.shopdap.com/ BG Dynamic Engine Restoration amzn.to/3LvHpXn Liquimoly Pro Line Engine Flush www.shopdap.com/pro-line-engine-flush-500ml.html Liquimoly Viscoplus www.shopdap.com/viscoplus-for-engine-oil-300ml.html Ball End Triple Square Bit Set www.shopdap.com/ball-end-triple-square-set-wkztsqktball.html Audi Oil Consumption Repair Set with Updated Pistons www.shopdap.com/finder-data/engine-repair/maintenance-kits/oil-consumption-repair-kit/06h198065dmgrp.html Updated 1.8t Piston www.shopdap.com/06l-107-065-as-vw-audi.html Updated 2.0t Audi Piston www.shopdap.com/06h-107-065-dm-vw-audi.html
Is it a bad idea to use one of these products for preventitive maintenance? I have a 2016 mk7 gti w/ ~60k miles. No oil burning to speak of at the moment. I'd like to keep it that way. I'll be ordering oil an filter in a few days!
Here is the recipe to solve 2.0tfsi oil burning. Get the engine hot. Remove spark plugs, mix 2oz PB Blaster, 1oz B-12 Chemtool, and 1/2oz MMO. Pour this mix in this quantity in to each cylinder. As you pour, you'll hear the mix boiling in the cylinder. Always exercise good safety protocol. Let it sit with a paper towel in the spark plug hole until the piston is visually dry (24hrs). Take a compressed air blower with a long snout and put it in the spark plug hole and blow. You will not believe the amount of dried carbon that will blow out. You'll typically find the culprit cylinder at this time based on the amount of carbon blowing out. Crank the engine over with the plugs out to remove excess liquid. Install the plugs and drive the vehicle around the block. Repeat all of these steps again. This cleans the piston crown and rings from the top side. When starting the engine after the second soak, dump in a can of BG EPR or LiquiMoly engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. this cleans the rings from the bottom side. Change the oil and filter and call it a day! This cured an engine burning 1qt every 200 miles @160k miles. It now burns nothing between 5k mi oil changes. You will have to repeat this every so often (2-3 oil changes) as the rings will re-clog. Yes its a pain, but it beats the cost of a new engine.
@@GooberProductionz spark plug holes! Leave it in there for several hours and fill the up again, it breaks down and weakens a lot of the hard carbon and shit that's sticking up the piston rings, Afterward you should suck it out with a little vacuum pump, and absolutely drain the oil, then fill with cheap oil, let it idle and warm up and go for a HARD drive, you'll see all kinds of evil smoke coming out of the exhaust and probably pop a CEL and piss off the o2 sensors a little bit Once it's good and hot and there's no more James bond smoke billowing out behind you, then drain the oil again and fill with the good stuff you normally use, don't want to drive for too long with all that crud and chemical in there!
In 1970 to 1974 I trained to be an engineer (UK) Our training officer, always used flushing oil during the oil changes. It went like this; Drop the old oil, fill with flushing oil, which was thinner than normal oil, run for a set period, drop the flushing oil, change filters and then fill with the correct oil spec. He was highly regarded, and he ran old cars...forever! I took up this practice, for a while, but, it got harder to find the same flushing oil. All you could get was a small can to add to the old oil, before you changed the oil. That didn't seem so effective. Peace be unto you.
Look up local bulk oil dealers, they will usually sell 20 litre drums drums of oil based, not solvent based, engine flush. The drums work out to be a fraction of the price of similar products at retail parts shops. I’ve used a flush nearly every oil change on brand new cars but I’d be cautious using a flush for the first time in an older or high kilometre engine.
@@J_S209 Hey, thanks for the warning about the older engines. I was thinking about flushing my 23 years old Golf, because of the oil eating and the previous owners probably never did it but it got me curious what could go wrong if you flush an older engine ? Serious question btw.
I learned this about 40 years ago from the guys who trained me to be a forklift mechanic. I was told to use dexron trans fluid, and a new filter. This is after warning the engine and letting the old oil drain overnight. Let the engine idle for 30 minutes, with the dexron and the new filter. Let the engine drain overnight again, and fill it with new oil with a fresh filter. The detergents in dexron are super effective at scrubbing carbon from your engine. Cheap and very effective way to keep an older engine running well. I've owned easily 100 cars and trucks in those 40 years, all used. Did this every time I bought a new to me vehicle, and I've never blown a motor.
@@Deutscheautoparts just discovered your channel.. watched your episode on efforts to clean intake ports on direct injection systems.. I've had the same issues with EGR diesel engines much much worse though.. it may sound radical.. but I've two now & works a treat & very easy & if diligent it safe for the engine.. I semi fill the ports.. with closed valves.. tergo commercial paint stripper.. sounds more radical than it is.. leave it 15-30mins & water last ports clean.. initially with blaster off to flush out the stripper without it blowing onto everything.. then blaster on & ports clean like new.. airgun residual water out & wd40 ports & cylinders valves open.. air out the engine with injectors (diesel) or plugs out on the starter & reassemble.. it's a lot easier & quicker than it sounds.. cheers from New Zealand
Before engine flush was a thing we used to mix diesel into a new batch of oil. Let the engine idle for an hour. Then we leveled the pistons and filled the cylinder with the some of the oil/diesel mix and left it the night over. Emptied the cylinders, changed oil, filter and plugs. Worked really well.
@@duckmyass First car was a 69 ford fairlane wagon 302, that I wanted to clean out, used Gunk engine flush, smell like ksene and ran 5 min and was worried what I'd done cause of some noise, I've now heard of using a quart or 2 of atf, which to me sounds more engine friendly even possibly to run it a tank or two of gas especially for older engines
@@joeboxer3365 The trick is that when you run it you don't drive it or rev it up you just let it idle so that it is getting the kerosene run all through the engine. Kerosene won't provide great lubrication like motor oil but it still provides enough that your engine won't get damaged from it as long as it isn't pushed hard in those 5 minutes. After the 5 minute run you can let it set for a while if you it is a really gunked up engine just to let it dissolve a bit more of the crude. I have even know of some guys that would pull the spark plug out after running it, then fill them with kerosene and then hand turn the engine a few rotations and let it just sit for an hour to free up the piston rings. Now after you go nuts with the kerosene I would personally change the oil drive it 30 minutes and then change it one more time because the kerosene is never going to get completely drained the first time you do it and it will hurt the characteristics of your motor oil... but by the second oil change enough of it will be out and the small amount still in isn't going to cause you any issues.
somehow mineral diesel oil is better for rinse and better performance. i mix the mineral diesel oil with palm oil as an aditif for my engine. for the 1st 500km with daily driving, all the slug ways up. then change it with the new mix, tap again at 1500km. voila, my engine run smooth and only gold varnish left. i learned before with my motorcycle single piston.
I once purchased an old Range Rover V8 which was very sluggish, so I threw a bottle of Wynns's Engine Flush into the oil and drove the vehicle home (1000km journey). After 200km the engine suddenly loosened up and pulled like a work horse. Was very impressed with the Wynn's flush. I use the cheapest oil I can find and when doing an oil change, I add a bottle of Wynn's Charge to the oil and have never had a problem. I change the oil annually or 10 000km which ever comes first. I drive a 1996 Opel Kadette.
Oil flushes are meant to be use with the engine idling for 30 minutes😂😂😂, you drove the care 1000miles, that loosened the carbon but it probably put so much wear on that engine too due to thinning of the oil from that flush chemical
OIL CONTROL RINGS !!! How did he not mention that VW/Audi changed to a waffle style from the spring and pin-hole style. Oil Control is the subject of the video and its the name of these rings... But ignore that.
Same as that stupid new clutch design which forced owners to convert back to the original design while vehicle manufacturers were laughing all the way to the bank!
way back in my day we did this process but instead of using expensive treatments we used a quart or so of diesel and kerosene added to the old oil ran it for a while then changed the oil and added another quart of d/k ran it and drove it for a while then changed the oil again.. it worked pretty good at removing sludge and build up
The B12 works. Audi 2012, 2.0TFSI, 113K miles. I did the piston soak but did it over a two week period, letting the car sit and pistons soak. I had a problem with loose carbon shifting to the downward side of the piston which caused it to bind on turning over through TDC in affected cylinders. I found it necessary to clean and suck out this carbon with all cylinder leveled half way. I used some weed whacker string on a rod though the spark plug hole to loosen the debris, I used my oil extractor and paint thinner to emulsify and remove the slurry. Once I was able to continue barring the engine though 360 degrees without binding, I continued the B12 soak and rotation. After the soak, I did a liquimoly flush with an oil change and new filter, dumped that refilled with new filter. Results....zero noted oil consumption after 800 miles so far. I would have already gone through two plus quarts at this miles. Tailpipes are soot free and dry.
To let you know, using engine flush, follow directions and get the gunk out of engines, including piston rings. This then allows the oil rings to expand to make a better seal with the cylinder walls, reducing oil burning. All engines with over 60 K miles can benefit from this procedure.
Scotty also said an engine flush could remove some old build up that's helping to prevent more oil from being eaten up. I guess it's at your own risk. If you're refilling every 3-500 miles then I'd do it. If you're doing pretty good at every 900-1k then I'd leave well enough alone. SuperTech oil isn't that expensive only cost me $21 for 5qts @ Walmart.
I haven't used the BG kit, but I have used the Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush many times. First time was on a 2006 Volvo S60 T5 with 80k miles on it. The previous owner took it to the dealer for conventional oil changes every 7500 miles. It was burning about a liter of oil every 1100 miles and after we used the engine flush, the filter was about half full of sludge flakes. It ended up using only about half a liter of oil over 5k miles after that. If I kept my foot in it, it would be a liter every 2500 miles. Second time was a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer with 260k miles on it. It hadn't had an oil change for 35k miles and had a tractor-like idle. We ended up changing the oil and filter before we did the flush and because I was busy at work, it ended up running for 45 minutes instead of 20 minutes. When we drained that oil, it was actually a dark grey instead of a black. We filled that one up with Royal Purple 5w30 and a wix XP oil filter. One funny thing was at the idle was still rough, just less so, but when you gave it throttle, the engine got so smooth you couldn't feel it running. The same thing happened with the Volvo, but it felt more like a sewing machine's soft vibration. Those are just the two notable stories for now. I might have another with a 2006 Nissan Maxima with 300k miles coming up. That one uses 2 quarts within 3500 miles.
I find 1L of oil per 1200 miles completely unacceptable. My 2011 Audi A3 has “consumed” about this quantity of oil since it was new and Audi would not do anything about it. I think the manufacturers should be held accountable! Cheers Drew
My old VW Lupo 1.4TDI used so little oil between 10K mile service intervals that no top ups were required at all and this was when the car had over 240K miles on the clock, the engine always ran like a precision Swiss watch and was surprisingly powerful for a 3 cylinder diesel with a 100mph cruising speed available if required, that car always got Shell Rotella 30W summer, 20W winter at 10K mile intervals with an occasional oil filter, I don't recall ever changing the air filter! 80 miles per UK gallon was possible if cruised at 60 mph on the motorway and the average fuel consumption was around 65 miles per UK gallon mainly urban cycle. That was a bloody good car
@@rotax636nut5 yes my 98 Seat cordoba 1.9TDI is running just fine with no oil burning and on the motorway gets 80 mpg. iI did a round trip of 1500kl in May and drove at 55mph got almost 90 mpg. these engines are up there with the old mercedes diesels
((hat does not matter much, engines that do not burn ANY oil do not last)); And it is not Audi's fault, they can't do anything about it; it is the Regulator's fault, the LAW!!! because it MANDATES Low Tension Rings to decrease friction, to save anothe drop of fuel, to SAVE THE PLANET; so, please do your part, live with the REGULATIONS, and let it BURN OIL,it's the LAW.
@@josepeixoto3384 The law does not mandate low tension rings. It mandates average MPG ratings. Audi decides whether to design their cars to be lighter and more aerodynamic or to stick with the same old and hyper-tune the engine to squeeze every last efficiency at the cost of long term general reliability.
My car burned oil bad like 2 months ago but I pulled my head of and put new valve guide seals in among other things and it hasn't lost any since 👍 I got a 130000 mile 2.slow
the "low tension" piston ring is a misunderstanding; the pressure put on the cylinder walls is the same (and so just as effectively prevents blowby), but because the rings are thinner, there's less surface area on which the pressure can apply force, thus applying less force and by extension less friction. The issues come when, like you say, the oil control rings get prematurely clogged or are poorly designed and it stops working.
Piston ring " LANDS " wears out letting blowby between the expanded ring and the piston itself . The only way to stop blowby in a worn engine is to bore the engine , new pistons and rings installed correctly. Then the crank and rods, cam and lifters all need to be remachined . In other words take it to the machine shop. Then break it in right , That engine rebuild in a can will insure your trip to the car dealer or machine shop with even more damage.
A piston ring must have a minimum preload, because otherwise the combustion gas can also find a way between the spring and the cylinder wall, while it has to come just behind the spring and press it against the cylinder wall. The gas pressure can more easily get between the spring and cylinder wall than between the piston and the inside of the spring, so if this preload is not sufficient, the gas goes between the spring and cylinder wall. The oil is then blown off and hot, so more blow-by and oil consumption + poor lubrication. The minimum preload (surface pressure) of the spring is essential, but does not ensure the seal, only the gas pressure does. The width of the spring is not essential for oil consumption. The oil scraper ring also does not work properly if it has too little preload. The gas pressure pushes the piston rings towards the cylinder wall, if they are narrower or wider, then the surface pressure of the piston rings on the cylinder wall is still the same due to this gas pressure. That is no reason for more oil consumption. If this pressure (surface pressure) of the springs themselves is sufficient, piston rings will work fine. That minimum pressure MUST be there, otherwise everything will go wrong. Oil drainage through the piston wall must of course be good, because then an extra mistake has been made.
@@heinpereboom5521 Ring and piston lands is very important . Otherwise the combustion gasses will pass between the piston and ring . I do believe that GM has looser tolerances than Ford. Ford maintains tight tolerances on their rods and mains and piston to wall clearances and land clearances . Chevys allowable was .004 max on their cranks off the showroom floor and as per the 5.3 v8 loose cylinder clearances . The Chevy runs faster off the showroom and gets to the junk yard faster. I think now most build close tolerance and have a more aggressive quality control . Now with Synthetic Oil clearances must be closer .
Oil consumption happens when the oil control ring. That’s the one below the top two compression rings becomes stuck from gunk carbon buildup, and that allows oil by and it is smeared by , outside of tolerances along the cylinder wall. The excess all that is left in the cylinder that is not managed by the bottom oil compression ring , becomes residual smeared oil that is left behind on your cylinder wall , some escapes past compression rings and becomes exposed and. Burned during combustion. Thisb exactly how an engine burns oil and in combustion chamber, There is one of the way through the valves, for the most part when your car starts burning all this is how it’s happening for the most part unless something else even worse is going on , The combustion rings are seated. it’s when the oil management ring sticking that’s when you start noticing your car is burning a court between oil changes or every 2500 miles or every thousand miles or every 500 miles however, bad it may be and it will get worse and worse and worse if you don’t free up that one bottom all management ring from being stuck , They make these oil control rings a lot more flexible than they used to. It’s all about emissions car don’t strain as bad don’t produce much carbon, with regard to how these more limber high efficiency rings are made in engineered monoxide motor vehicles had much stiffer or control rings and they didn’t stick very easy but if you wanna know the main way or get by a piston, that’s it You can also come in through the valves, but as far as the majority of oil burning, that’s where you’re getting it unless you got something going on like a blown head gasket you know or something abnormal like that leaking valve cover O-rings a top year spark plugs, etc. etc. Overtime this abnormality can cause your compression rings and possibly even your oil management ring to become dislodged and unseeded usually starts on one side protrudes, but just a fraction of centimeter and gets worse and that’s why you scarring every year on the walls takes place and you start to lose Even more and more compression and tell the problem just gets worse and worse until you have no compression on that particular cylinder that’s oil 101 exactly how it goes down for the most part with regard how the majority of your oil burning.
I guess removing engine deposits is a pretty random outcome also. Sometimes the deposits might help nurse a worn part seal better and othertimes prevent a good seal.
@@itsthemetho Agree 100%, especially for leaks, lol. Strong believer in - if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I do 3,000-mile oil changes, which for me is the best preventative. If it were oil-burning 1 liter per 172 miles (!), you're up for big bucks anyway, so you've got nothing to lose trying these.
@@johnrroberts7900 Yeah a liter/quart every 172 miles is once every 2-3 days if you have a normal commute. You'd be spending almost as much on oil as fuel.
One thing we all can gather from this video is check your oil more often. If your car doesn’t have an oil level sensor, you can easily damage your engine by running your engine too low on oil! Also I run “Marvel’s Mystery Oil” in my personal vehicles and I don’t have any oil consumption issues.
At Honda we have 3 successful BG dynamic services and those were the only ones sold the past year so 3/3 isn’t bad so far lol I know it’s a whole different brand/engine (09-15 V6 with VCM) but wanted to mention in case people got the wrong idea of BG, they’re great products and work extremely well! Hence the slight improvement from the Passat you did. Based on potential shitty maintenance. That carbon is a bitch to break down based on my fair share of engine tear downs. Either way I love using Liqui Moly stuff they recommend the flush every 30k and it helps out a lot as well!
Did these engines stop burning oil ? I have a v6 Honda and am trying to see if there’s anything I can do to slow the burning. Burns about a quart every 2,500miles.
@@matthewfreidus5034 I currently drive a 2007 Pilot with 226,000 miles that uses almost no oil. I previously had a much newer Ridgeline that burned about a quart every 3,000 miles. I think a lot has to do with the thinner oil used in newer engines (0W-20) and the low-tension piston rings.
put 7 spoons of bearing greace in engine with old oil idol for 30 minutes drain oil put new oil filter and fresh oil engine goes forever maximum performance
I use the liquimoly engine flush which I buy from Napa in my 2003 BMW 330ci. The M54b30 is notorious for burning oil. On 2 separate cars with the same engine I went from burning a qt every 400-500 miles to a qt every 1200 or so. I then use it before every other oil change along with 5w40 liqui moly leichluft oil and it just keeps getting better. Both cars are an excess of 230k miles.
I've been using liquid moly engine flush every 3rd oil change on my 2012 prius. Now on 360,000 miles and burning about 300ml every 10,000 miles. Highly recommend and if your going to do this start before it has oil consumption issues.
BG Dynamic Engine Restoration Service kit majorly improved my Camry consumption. I was burning one quart weekly (500 mile) After this treatment I have only burned 1/3 quart in the last 1000 miles. So grateful for this video. Thanks for attaching amazon link! $350.00 with taxes is a lot of money but should save my converter with the excessive oil consumption. So in my case it was a success! Rick
I have an 2006 e46 330ci with the M54 engine. I currently have 165k miles on the car and the valve stem seals have started to leak. I get blue smoke when I give the car gas after it idles for about 15-20 minutes. I recently tried Liquimoly oil saver and it has completely solved the issue. I used 1 full can and half of another and so far it’s been close to 2k miles and I can not get it to smoke. These really are great products
Working on VWs and Audis professionally in my experience I’ve seen aftermarket oil filters make oil consumption much worse especially with the very cheap ones and it’s one of the first things that Audi has you check when performing oil consumption measurements
The only reason for oil consumption is the bad construction of pistons and especially too weak piston rings. THAT must be fixed first, those after market filters are definitely not the main cause, they are said to mask the real problem by garages. I have often seen it with car engines and certainly also with motorcycles, think of BMW. All kinds of stories about oil and running in were nonsense, only the construction was not good, but they did not want to admit it, all at the expense of the customers, just like Audi, Volkswagen and BMW. Apparently modern engineers can't make good engines after 150 years because they don't understand how it really should work, I'm 100% sure of that.
Back in the day you would run one quart of ATF in place of one quart of oil during an oil change. Drive the car for a hundred miles or so and than do a complete oil change. This trick works well for a sticky lifter.
Enjoyed the video guys. That was some impressive improvement on cylinder 4. Glad to hear my 08 Grand Prix burning a quart every 4,000 miles is probably still in spec. 😄 Have liked and subscribed!
2014 VW Passat 1.8 bought new, current mileage 169,943 miles very low oil consumption , runs great. 100 mile trip , set cruise at 57 , slow lane windows and sunroof open 41.2 mpg! Yes, close to 170,000 miles. Best car Ive owned in my 67 years, and ZERO SQUEAKS OR RATTLES. I USE BG, MOA, EPR and 44K since new. Can't convince me that BG isn't an effective high quality premium result if used properly. Thanks BG!
You nailed it there, low tension rings may be part of it, but also thinner oil, longer oil drain intervals, and lackadaisical maintenance by users. My guess is its mainly owners blowing off maintenance. My 2011 tdi cjaa with 225000 miles, no additives and only on time changes with good as specified synthetic oil eats about a liter and a half in the standard 10k interval, nothing odd at all.
Weak piston rings is the main cause. The long oil change intervals are indeed bad, that is a false economy and also has consequences for the often poorly constructed camshaft drives. The thinner oil only gives more consumption if the construction of the piston and springs is not good, otherwise it is not that bad. (if it is synthetic oil) Your oil consumption is good after so many miles and will stay that way for a while. You are in luck with your car engine.
modern engines burn oil,,fact..i have a clevo, thrashed, change oil every 3 months,ish.. doesnt use a drop..14 yrs..beat that.. synthetic oil is crap..expensive,,crap..
Old cars also burned oil like crazy, long before “weak rings” became a thing. The physical construction of engines has vastly improved, as have the materials used. Owner maintenance on the other hand, has plummeted.
I have a 14 Audi TT that was burning 1 quart every 500 miles...I flushed engine with BG109 before oil change but I ran it for 50 mins at 2300 rpm...more time than recommended. It now does not burn any oil.....Amazing Stuff!
Great tip (worked for me!): I saw a "youtuber" recommend using Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to "free" the faulty piston ring. So, I said to myself, "what can you lose?!" I bought 3 bottles of the stuff & poured it in a nearly-empty gas tank...Voila!!! No more oil-burning for my 2012, 2.4L KIA Sorento engine!!! Oh, I forgot to mention that I filled the tank with Shell premium gas, after pouring the Berryman's!!!
Great video man! EPR is BGs version of LMs engine flush, same purpose and price range. We sell BG Dynamic for the badly sludged ones, EPR for consumption and pm with BG MOA, with amazing results. If you want a GREAT top engine soak product (for the upper rings) BG also has some options. 1- #201 for an injection system flush that digs deep. 2- #210 fuel system cleaner (older chemistry) but work amazing for a too engine soak. Feel free to reach out if you guys need more info. Great job guys!
Great video. The key to these engines is good oil every 5000 miles! My 2014 Passat burns about 1/2 liter every 5000. Usually, the oil level is good till about 4000, then I just it off with the extra that is leftover in the bottle and all is good. Using Liqui Moly is key for VW's.
the problem is with the TSI/TFSI engines (caused from a misconcept from the piston oil scrapping rings, solved only in 2018) ,and if the problem appears did rise the oil consumption at +1 liter per 1000km! the key for VW (and all modern engines) is to make oil changes all 10 000km or 1x year ...
In younger days I became owner of a 70 datsun station with with see through rockers and a quart a week oil burning habit, first getting gently used oil from a friend, to finally adding some gear lube 90wt as a replacement, it cut use by half and it was better than running it low, just had to change the mixture adjust leaner so it wasn't fouling plugs, that car was a fun summer beater for early 80s
I have a few comments. I work in the service department at Hyundai and we are having a hard time with oil burning on some of our vehicles, most of these vehicles are customers who never service with us. I've heard the low tension rings reasoning before, and I'm positive that's part of the issue. The most common comment I get from these customers is "I've owned many cars and have never had issues before, and my maintenance habits have not changed" I try to explain the low tension ring reasoning, and they just fluff it off 🤷♂️ Honestly, I feel they should just get back to regular rings IMHO. Second. Is it me, or did the updated Audi piston have a thicker oil control ring gap? Third, would.you be willing to try seafoam engine treatment on another oil consumption car? I'd be interested to see how it works as well. Thanks for the video. I'm tempted to make business cards with a link to this video, and give them to customers who are lost when I try to explain this phenomenon.
I think Project Farm did a video with Seafoam, here's a link to a bunch of videos on the subject. ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=project+farm+seafoam. I own a 1999 Hyundai Accent with the 5sp. manual, and it's holding up quite well with over 180k miles on it. I did a compression check a few thousand miles ago and it was hitting close to 200 psi per cylinder. I found it almost perfectly preserved in a thicket of blackberry bushes where it was forgotten for 12 years. The owner bought it brand new and put 159k miles on it in the five years he drove it. I gave him $300 bucks and replaced the ECM and the fuel pump to get it going and since then I have only had to replace the lower control arms in the front and the struts. It was almost pristine in appearance until I moved to the city where it has suffered the abuse of @$$H0L#$ who hate everything. Then I was sideswiped on the freeway while on my way to work. I've always wanted to test my theory on maintaining control of the car after being sideswiped, too many Bond movies and episodes of the A-Team are perhaps to blame for that. Weird thing is, that practice kicked in although I never practiced it, while I maintained my forward direction without getting outside my lane, the girl that struck me went spinning out of control. I got over to the shoulder as fast as I could and immediately ran down to her car . She was outside of it kinda walking away in a daze of confusion. I got her settled down and made sure she was OK, she was further confused by this as she felt I should be angry. I laughed and said, " If I thought you had done this maliciously, I would be. Even then, I would still want to make sure you were OK considering what happened after being struck. Besides, they are just cars we can get new ones, we don't get new selves if we are damaged beyond repair." Her insurance Co. gave me $3200 and change for my car, not without me pointing out the fact that Blue Book and actual replacement costs are two entirely different things. do yourself a favor if you don't already know this and employ this knowledge should you ever have to deal with a claim. Otherwise you could end up with thousands of dollars less that you are entitled to. I used the money to buy a Honda Accord, but not before buying the Hyundai back. It is still very driveable as it was only affected cosmetically. Just to have around as a spare, I'll eventually get around to doing the body work, it's on loan to a friend in need at the moment though. It's a damn solid car, the second of which I have owned, I'd still have the first one but an ex-roommate/friend sent it to the boneyard fearing I had abandoned it. The title was still in his name unfortunately, and more unfortunately you don't find many if any of these cars in there anymore, hence why I bought a Honda, lol.
its because hyundai gdi engine is a garbage. currently own cadenza 2.4 theta 2 engine in it. I feel like carbon is building up crazy in it. The car only has 80000kms on it. now it has funky idealing in cold start and burning over a liter of oil between the oil change
Way back I got a VW powered Sandrail that was burning a crazy amount of oil. I suspected that the rings were carboned up and stuck because the distributor timing advance wasn't working. I decided to give it a Hail Mary and used Seafoam down the carb flooding the engine out several times. After running a whole can through it over the course of a few hours letting it soak between floodings it stopped burning oil and it ran great.
I could have sworn that Audi told us that 0.5L per 1000km was the acceptable oil consumption on the E888 TFSI 2.0 engines. :) Thank god mine doesnt have this. Still love watching these real issues and fixes videos than some cray engine swap ones.
I am running EA888 Gen3b with chip tuning for 130k kilomiters. St1 is last 100k Changing oil every 10k kilomiters. No any issues. This last gen is really good and long lasting 👍
@@F.S92 yeah the wife's '14 Jetta with the gen3 1.8 is fine. I change it around 6-7k cause it gets a fair amount of highway use. It'll take maybe a half quart by around 4k or so. If I get the chance ,I'll check it and top it off with some MMO a few hundred miles before I'm gonna dump it to help clean a little.
At a consumption of 0.5 liters per 1000 km, the engine must be overhauled. I used to have a two-stroke motorcycle and it used much less oil, but it was then seen as polluting and oil wasting. The real problem is the surface pressure of the piston rings on the cylinder wall. This surface pressure is simply known, but for less friction and so-called fuel savings, this surface pressure is lowered, but that is completely incorrect, because the misery that ensues is much worse than those few % fuel savings. Furthermore, the piston must also be well constructed. When I see the construction of these pistons in this film, I immediately think of the garbage can, they are so badly made, just rubbish. Unfortunately, after 150 years of making engines, people have forgotten how to do that, at the expense of customers, who are just guinea pigs, they don't test anything in the factory, otherwise they wouldn't put it on the market, because the brand name will also break. Camshaft drives are also a disaster, together with the far too long oil change intervals.
Cylinder 2 and 3 are interesting, i had a similar thing happen with a 98 grand cherokee with 300000 miles. I actually had above spec compression on cyl6 which i believe is carbon buildup on crown and combustion chamber
Very cool. I once flushed a 72 LeMans, and had clear oil with every oil change since. I changed it four to three times a year and used it to deliver pizza. I never could figure out why newer cars always turned the oil black no matter how often I changed the oil. 😕 Cool video! 😃
Have seen on two occasions those older pistons cracked where that missing notch is under the oil control ring. While I’m not sure why the piston was updated strength in that area is a concern.
I am sure that someone else may have commented on this already, but the Cylinder 2 in the first compression test according to what we saw on the video only actually went up to 145 to 150. So there wasn't a loss of compression necessarily between the final compression testing on Cylinder 2 and the initial testing on that cylinder. Also, I get the feeling that part of the reason for a decrease in vehicles lasting as long can also have to do with the large increase in the use of ethanol being added to gasoline.
Chemicals can help temporarily, but in the end the piston rings have to be changed. sometimes your car will smoke upon starting it but stop after it runs a little. This is usually caused by oil leaking from beneath the valves this can be fixed by removing the heads and taking them to a machine shop to have the valve guides knurled.
The last CPRA engine I ringed the oil rings were completely stuck in the groove. I used Chem dip and a broken ring to get the carbon out of the grooves. It was like concrete.
I'm a retired ASE Master Technician that was trained at the GM training college back in the 90's and I can only tell you my experience on American cars regarding this oil burning issue and what I would recommend to my customers. If it were a Chevy 305 V8 circa 1985-89 and was burning 1 quart per 500 miles it would likely be an especially hard block where the rings wouldn't break in to the cylinder walls and I would offer the "treatment" we used to try: adding 1/2 teaspoon of bartender's brass polish to the oil and running it for about 1/2 hour at idle. Often this would cut the consumption down to 1 quart per 5000 miles and that's not bad actually. (Idling would not let the bearings make contact and the very fine abrasive would not wear out the bearings.) Another thing I would suggest is that they just keep adding oil and never change it, just replace the filter every 5000 miles. Constantly replacing the oil replenishes the additive package in the oil and may eventually get the rings to seat and stop the oil consumption. Beyond that, I would ask the customer what he wants to do: Add oil every 500 miles that's gonna cost $1000 over the next 50,000 miles, or pay $5000 for an engine rebuild. How long is he gonna keep the car? Is it worth the extra $4000 for him to not hassle with the oil burning? Also, it's been my experience that engines that burn that much oil can last for a million miles because the detergents and lubrication modifiers make all the parts last a lot longer.
hi I can't remember where I saw this information but the Audi engine from 2009 and up that burns oil had the rings too thin compared to the new updated ring and piston combination and the modification you mentioned above the piston pins are probably helping I work on VW and Audi cars but never had the chance to rebuild one for high oil consumption only timing chains replacements but I have a few customers that had the Audi dealer fix the oil consumption with new piston and all of them stoped burning oil and I have seen cars with the factor is specs and intervals and they still had the problem with oil burning.
Perhaps you are not aware that the engineers at Audi and VW and other brands no longer know how to construct pistons and piston rings? Chains and camshaft drives are also often incorrectly constructed. After 150 years, modern engineers no longer know how to make pistons and springs. That is a complicated matter, people think too easily about it, they should ask the retired engineers that and do not want to reinvent the wheel.
My vehicle has been burning a lot of oil lately x thank you so much for doing this video. I’ll be calling my dealer tomorrow to see how much the engine cleaning service costs.
You can do that, but it won't solve the problem. The only reason for oil consumption is the bad construction of pistons and especially too weak piston rings. THAT must be fixed first, other things are definitely not the main cause, they are said to mask the real problem by garages. I have often seen it with car engines and certainly also with motorcycles, think of BMW. All kinds of stories about oil and running in were nonsense, only the construction was not good, but they did not want to admit it, all at the expense of the customers, just like Audi, Volkswagen and BMW. Apparently modern engineers can't make good engines after 150 years because they don't understand how it really should work, I'm 100% sure of that.
I've had multiple 2.0 tdi, 2.0 Audi and 3.6 VR engines and a 1.4 in a jetta and I can honestly say I've never had a oil burning issue. (knocks on wood) Heck I even have a Ford Duratec with 230k miles on it (all highway though) and it uses less than half a quart over 10k mile OCI. All have received OEM spec oil or better usually Mobil1 or Castrol Edge. Engines with chains get 5k OCI and those with belts usually 10k oci.
@@NOTaGLI yes, and you probably drive all of them as nice as you could, right? a he said in video, if it's burning oil etc, it's probably you. i can confirm that. ford was the worst.
@@NOTaGLI when you buy used you have to factor in the guy who didn't follow engine break-in directions flooring it as soon as he started it and never bothered changing the oil because he knew he'd just turn it in at the end of his lease no amount of maintenance afterwards can undo all that
Idk tbh I only work on my own Volkswagens. But the mechanics I know have all said every VW they have seen come through there bay had oil bleeding through the charge pipes. Imo it's just a matter of time before the turbos start leaking oil.
My car is burning oil and I was thinking to replace my engine with a used one but after this video I decided not to go for that, instead I get repaired it with updated pistons and piston rings probably. Thanks for the great video. Subscribed and I am happy that I did it.
I had some oil burning issue on my 1.8T and then on my 2.0pd, and switching from 5w30 to 5w40 completely solved the issue and its still factory spec... My 1.8T 20v was going through the dipstick every 700miles, then after switching to 5w40 I never had to top up between the 5k oil change interval. My passat 2.0pd when I got it I didnt have time to do the oil change on it myself so took it to a friends garage and they put 5w30 in it, after just a week of driving I already had an oil level warning. Change that too to 5w40 I only had to top up once between changes which I do at 8k miles. Oil in question is Mobil 3000 X1.
I have a 96 landcruiser with around 170k miles. 4.5l straight 6 When towing a heavy trailer and doing a lot of engine braking it was using around 1 liter of oil per 1200 miles. Also if you left it standing for a few days, it would blow some smoke when you started it. I thought it may be leaking valve stem seals, so I put in some Liqui molly Motor Oli Saver. The old level dropped about 2mm in 500 miles and then stabilised. After 2500 miles the level hasn't dropped any further. Also the oil is much cleaner - still an Aber colour with a tinge of grey.
The Honda 3.5 V6 has this issue due to the VCM which pulls oil into the cylinders when it shuts down the back 3 for "eco" mode. I wish there was a shop anywhere close to me that offered the BG dynamic service as I am dealing with one that keeps oil fouling the #3 spark plug.
Liqui Moly's engine flush seemed to stop the oil burning in my M54B30. Could also be because I started driving more economically due to gas prices, lol
bmw's of that vintage always need valve stem oil seals. you can do this in situ with the right tools, very seldom to the m54 need piston rings, they DO like heavy driving tho, its definatly good for them so dont be afraid to go for it occationally. Great engine, only bettered by the M57 when reliability matters.
My engine was rebuilt and it now burns oil. Especially when I put the pedal down. I have scoped the valves and I can see oil pooled up after sitting for a day. I’m thinking my seals, guides, and rings were done poorly. Unfortunately, the shop that rebuilt it is 3 hours away. I did a compression test and I had 120 psi on all 8 cylinders on my ‘72 Torino 302, so it’s a bit confusing.
I rebuild air cooled VW engines, and I always use gapless rings (Total Seal). Are gapless rings OK for rebuilds on modern engines like the Audi 2.0/B7? It seems that it would solve the same issue that eliminating the small cut out below the oil scraper in the first piston design solved by reducing blow-by. Also, did Audi/VW make a change with the material the rings are made of along with the updated pistons? From my understanding, part of the reason for excessive oil burning in the 2.0L is also due to the metallurgy makeup of the rings. That they were either too hard or soft for the sleeves, and thus don't break-in well.
Honda has been using low-tension rings for years. The older 5w-30 lubricated engines usually only presented a problem when habitually driven hard for many miles. I think the lighter oils spec'd in modern vehicles, paired with forced induction, is compounding this problem to an unacceptable level in some models.
I wonder if those pistons were bad from the factory. Not familiar with too many different manufacturers designs but the ones I am familiar with would occasionally see the 3rd groove notch as a defect. All the pistons that we did were designed like the replacements.
My A4 B7 2.0 TFSI was running really cold (65-70 deg C) and running through about a half L of oil every fill up (400mi). Since replacing the thermostats (x2) the oil consumption has dropped massively to something like 0.5L per 1200mi+. Presumably because the piston rings are heating up and expanding to reduce the gap through which oil can get past?
The only reason for oil consumption is the bad construction of pistons and especially too weak piston rings. THAT must be fixed first, other things are definitely not the main cause, they are said to mask the real problem by garages. I have often seen it with car engines and certainly also with motorcycles, think of BMW. All kinds of stories about oil and running in were nonsense, only the construction was not good, but they did not want to admit it, all at the expense of the customers, just like Audi, Volkswagen and BMW. Apparently modern engineers can't make good engines after 150 years because they don't understand how it really should work, I'm 100% sure of that.
@@heinpereboom5521 yes, the only solution to fix the misconcept is to replace the pistons (or modify it: some did this in Germany) with a much larger U-flex oil scrapping ring (same ring type as on older engines), and very important :change oil OFTEN, all 10 000km is ok but not more!
@@leneanderthalien You are right, those people in Germany know more about engines than the engineers of manufacturers, which is a shame actually. Also perfectly correct not to use the engine oil for too long, it is the most important engine part, even if it is liquid.
Cold engine, choke, cold start injector, ecm cold map sends larger amounts of fuel through, DILUTING engine oil, allowing it to EVAPORATE in the crankcase and get past the rings and burn off. Worsr case scenario was car driven daily five or ten miles for years was suddenly freeway driven for two hours! The diluted oil flashed into vapor was burnt by the engine suddenly consuming all the oil. BLAM no engine oil, rod went through the engine block. SEIZED
WOW .5l for 1200 miles??? Odd I will stay with my 5.3 LS motor as it looses less than a cup of oil per 3.5k miles. My wife's 2010 Milan uses the same and it has 140k miles on it.
I personally have used BG’s EPR can (Engine Performance Restoration) on older Subaru engines that burn a fair amount and it dramatically decreased the oil consumption. On my daily driver Legacy with over 300k miles it changed from burning a quart every thousand to less than a quart between oil changes (4-5k). They make great stuff. I suspect this Passat will continue to burn less and less as that can of additive runs it’s course
Your answer is the updated oil control ring. The old 2pc ring clogs easily and does not allow drainback. The updated piston has a 3pc oil ring and as you stated the cutout was updated.
Biggest issue I have with oil burning is it eventually ruins the cats. So you can either keep adding oil but eventually spend $1500+ on new catalytic converters, or you can replace/rebuild the engine for $2500+. Regardless, it's hard to justify this type of repair on a older car, other than just dumping it.
I didnt know that burning oil can ruin cats thats messed up i got tired of spending endless money replaced cat , then manifold , then spark plugs , fuel injector. I sold my car . Im done .
After spending $3500 for piston, ring and timing chain replacement on my 2012 A4 2.0 Audi split the cost) the motor again failed at 60K. I paid $12,000 for a crate motor from Audi. Purchased the car new in 2012, car was meticulously maintained. Total invested in the vehicle has been $83,000 to date.
I guess for every story like yours there's someone like me, with a 2016 GTI with stg2 tune (making almost 50% more power than stock) which spends most of its life on the track with engine at the redline under 30+ psi of boost and needs less than 1/2 quart top off between the 8-9k miles oil changes. Currently at 67k miles and zero issues. My 2015 TDI needs about a quart in between the 10k (mostly highway) miles oil changes I'd call it the luck of the draw, with the car and the dealer techs doing the work (every time I had to take any of my VWs to the dealer for any warranty work they would break something that wasn't broken when the car came in) :)
Really a great instructional video with amazing results. We own a 2014 VW 2.0 TSI that has only 41K miles. We bought it used but have all the service records. Over the history of the VW< the oil was changed at a maximum of 3000 mile intervals. Oil gets changed by us once a year which isn't many miles. The past few years, it amounts to 1000 to 1500 miles per year. The tail pipe is black inside and it coated with a thick oily sooty goo. Not sure why this is happening? The oil usage is a quart every 1000 miles (every oil change). Maybe we need piston soaking or a new PCV assembly? I knew when we bought a VW, it was a bad idea. My 2002 SAAB 9-5 has 180K miles, 90% town miles. Doesn't burn a drop of oil and all cylinders compression are within 5 pounds of each other. I guess SAAB knew how to engineer a Car but GM destroyed the company. Plan to drive the SAAB for many more years. The VW, not so much.
The liqui moly flush actually worked wonders for me, except that i also ran it for 45 mins at 3,000 rpms, drained and refilled, my engine used to burn around 2 quarts between oil changes and the throttle body had a light coat of oil, PCV was new, surprisingly spark plugs werent fouled or dark, they were in excellent shape in a year interval 3 months after the liqui moly, the throttle body is DRY, and burns around 1/2 qt between oil change, engine also revs up to 3500 rpms soooo much quieter, totally recommend to try it out
The problem is actually worse when you use low-tension piston rings in engines with gasoline direct injection that works in the range of 1000psi or more. Not only do you get oil burning, but you also get gasoline dilution of the oil, some of which is taken care of if you keep the engine hot and it is allowed to evaporate out of the oil and go back into the intake via the pcv system. But, if it is persistent, it's worse than oil burning because it alters the viscosity of the oil and destroys it's lubricating properties which means you're not just burning oil, you've got metal-on-metal contact and premature wear.
You did a great job on this, a proper investigation following the scientific method. The improvement in compression on that bad cylinder was really significant. The other small 5psi variations in compression could be just random variations like whether the gaps on the piston rings happen to rotate around to line up with each other. The reduction in oil consumption is also a significant result. Some really worthwhile conclusions made here.
I have a 1.9TDI with 287.000km, oil level didn't change since the service 10.000km ago goes to show that regular service with cheap oil (at less than half the price of castrol) is better than skipping service with good oil
why are all the technical mechanics all not in the UK, no mechanic i know does this thorough work on cars i wish we had mechanics like yourself around here
Back in the 60's when I was rather poor, we used to drain the oil & fill the engine full of water right down the carb, and leave it set for a day or 2. Water dissolves carbon. A complete drain, followed by a diesel fuel flush, followed by new oil, run maybe 20 minutes or so, change oil again. Sometimes it took a while to get it running again, maybe even pull starting. Even many automatics could be pull started before 1967. They would smoke like a coal stove for a bit, bit most of the oil burning was gone, and we got a lot more miles out of an engine that was already done before. We also ran straight trans fluid in the crankcase if they weren't too bad, and after a few hundred miles of taking it easy dirty lifters & such would quiet right down. I watched an old man pour a water/ scouring powder solution slowly thru a bad oil burner at a fast idle to reseat the rings. It was amazing how well it worked. Poor people had to improvise & adapt.
The exposure to the seals will be a lot less than the full flow oil filter, also the short duration of use would limit the risk. It would probably be safe to assume there would be some buildup everywhere in the engine so by the time that has been removed the flushing agent would be drained out, hence the chance of damaging seals would be low.
I’m have a 2011 S5, the CAUA V8… the oil level drops just less than 1L every 10,000km. It was well maintained by the previous owner, and I’ve done oil change every 10,000km. Very thankful to not be experiencing oil burn problems.
I guess my question is why would you not think that change in the piston is significant. Personally I think it's hugely significant, it removes all but a slight amount of oil from coming in contact with the ring groove. Interesting video.
The exception to the rule of not buying another engine is if you find a really low mileage engine with sweet smelling oil and clean Spark plugs that don’t look recently replaced. They are out there so keep an eye out for them …
2001 v6 Accord. I run amsoil signature and change oil once a year. Works out to about 13k miles. Now has 320k and does not burn more than 1/4” down on the dipstick over that year. Good oil works.
I have a 2018 Passat 2.0TSi with this exact problem and of course VW has hid behind their obscene high oil consumption tolerance spec. I had it in for oil consumption test before warranty and VW just said it was within spec, and problem has only gotten worse. I'm going through 1L/1300km on average right now. Just had turbo replaced due to slow boost code, and cat was plugged putting car into limp mode. Definitely going to try this.1 Thaaaaank youuuuu!!
My motor started burning and after discussing the issue with the shop i use for repairs they used a moly motor flush and changed the brand of oil on top of moving from 5-30 to 10-30 as the motor had over 225k miles. This boils down to trusting your shop you use. Quite often you can go in and get some advice about other issues as well that you can do on your own.
I have used a KOH device to split distilled water into hydrogen and oxygen for about ten years now on various engines. When the water recombines in the combustion chamber it steam cleans the carbon out and you lower the amount of oil burnt. You can feel the engine running better, it's more economical and it stays clean. You should try it!!
Grove was eliminated to give more rigidity to the area, since oil return ring size was increased significantly and excessive material was removed . Also that grove original was made to improve oil return to the pan, since they updated with larger oil return rings that grove is not needed anymore.
This help me alot that 1.8 was a bad make thanks alot I've learned how to keep it running smooth I been keeping the piston clean up top to keep a good spark now I knw wat to do thanks alot 👌🏿
Causes of oil burning aside from the ones you already know (1) engine overheating non oem thermostat, non oem cooling fan temperature switches, poor coolant circulation from corrosion buildup in block and head from using tap water mixed with antifreeze (always use distilled water), causing ring tension loss (2) ring wear on ring land side or worn out beveled ring lands inside ring grove allowing rings to tilt on upstroke downstroke pumping oil into cylinders (3) defective pcv system allowing oil into intake manifold (4) plugged drain holes in oil control ring lands not allowing scraped out to go back into oil pan (5) oil dilution from fuel injection system delivering excessive fuel during cold start, warmup, or dribbling injectors not sealing off with engine off.
@@gristlevonraben The earlier Equinox's also had major problems with defective piston rings that lost their tension extremely early, and causes excessive oil burning.
Excellent information. Subscribed and thumbs up! Do you have any videos on T5 Transporters, and their various issues? Cheers from down under. Melbourne, Australia.
@@rccl4487 My brother owns 2 Teslas. He's had them for 5 years without issue and they are on the original brakes. No oil changes or any other maintenance. I'll give that a try.
Piston soaking can help with oil consumption, I think its probably the best option since it comes in direct contact with the piston and rings. Just takes longer for it to work its way threw the rings.
I used to sell BG products when I worked at a dealership. They are great products and I recommend the ATC additive for automatic transmissions. I went through the training with BG specialists about there products and I also went through the training about Pennzoil products for Mopar. BG did not like me questioning the quality of the MOA additive for motor oil because of what I learned about Pennzoil and why SRT switched from Mobil One to Pennzoil Platinum....lol. I highly recommend the BG MOA additive for people who want to use Conventional motor oils or Semi-Synthetic motor oils. Adding the MOA to something like Pennzoil Platinum is a waste of money as the additive does not enhance anything and the BG specialist did not want to tell me this on record...lol If your skeptical about BG products, I would recommend them over any other additives on the market except the MOA if you use a high quality synthetic motor oil. The BG MOA additive is basically adding high quality synthetic motor oil additives to your conventional or semi-synthetic oils.
Links for stuff in this video -
Our Repair Shop - DAP Repair
www.daprepair.com/
Our VW and Audi Parts Site
www.shopdap.com/
BG Dynamic Engine Restoration
amzn.to/3LvHpXn
Liquimoly Pro Line Engine Flush
www.shopdap.com/pro-line-engine-flush-500ml.html
Liquimoly Viscoplus
www.shopdap.com/viscoplus-for-engine-oil-300ml.html
Ball End Triple Square Bit Set
www.shopdap.com/ball-end-triple-square-set-wkztsqktball.html
Audi Oil Consumption Repair Set with Updated Pistons
www.shopdap.com/finder-data/engine-repair/maintenance-kits/oil-consumption-repair-kit/06h198065dmgrp.html
Updated 1.8t Piston
www.shopdap.com/06l-107-065-as-vw-audi.html
Updated 2.0t Audi Piston
www.shopdap.com/06h-107-065-dm-vw-audi.html
Is it a bad idea to use one of these products for preventitive maintenance? I have a 2016 mk7 gti w/ ~60k miles. No oil burning to speak of at the moment. I'd like to keep it that way. I'll be ordering oil an filter in a few days!
I sold my GTI cause of thi fu…. Burning oil 👎👎👎 I will never bay a gti
Was it an impersonation od that guy that has Mercedes Benz channel where you advertised the sockets?
@@benamarayoucef9402 Don't blame the car, blame the EPA and the climate crisis con men and women.
Have you tried engine restore?
Here is the recipe to solve 2.0tfsi oil burning. Get the engine hot. Remove spark plugs, mix 2oz PB Blaster, 1oz B-12 Chemtool, and 1/2oz MMO. Pour this mix in this quantity in to each cylinder. As you pour, you'll hear the mix boiling in the cylinder. Always exercise good safety protocol. Let it sit with a paper towel in the spark plug hole until the piston is visually dry (24hrs). Take a compressed air blower with a long snout and put it in the spark plug hole and blow. You will not believe the amount of dried carbon that will blow out. You'll typically find the culprit cylinder at this time based on the amount of carbon blowing out. Crank the engine over with the plugs out to remove excess liquid. Install the plugs and drive the vehicle around the block. Repeat all of these steps again. This cleans the piston crown and rings from the top side. When starting the engine after the second soak, dump in a can of BG EPR or LiquiMoly engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. this cleans the rings from the bottom side. Change the oil and filter and call it a day! This cured an engine burning 1qt every 200 miles @160k miles. It now burns nothing between 5k mi oil changes. You will have to repeat this every so often (2-3 oil changes) as the rings will re-clog. Yes its a pain, but it beats the cost of a new engine.
I did this on a Honda with chemtool had to do it twice to fix the oil burning
Is this applicable to the tsi engines as well?
We do something similar! But instead we use that GDI intake cleaner sauce, AC Delco makes a good one and even MOPAR has an aggressive cleaner too
@@snoofayy6150 you put it through the intake or dump it in the spark plug hole?
@@GooberProductionz spark plug holes! Leave it in there for several hours and fill the up again, it breaks down and weakens a lot of the hard carbon and shit that's sticking up the piston rings,
Afterward you should suck it out with a little vacuum pump, and absolutely drain the oil, then fill with cheap oil, let it idle and warm up and go for a HARD drive, you'll see all kinds of evil smoke coming out of the exhaust and probably pop a CEL and piss off the o2 sensors a little bit
Once it's good and hot and there's no more James bond smoke billowing out behind you, then drain the oil again and fill with the good stuff you normally use, don't want to drive for too long with all that crud and chemical in there!
wow, this video escalated quickly from an oil change to complete teardown and explanation. Loved every bit of it!
In 1970 to 1974 I trained to be an engineer (UK) Our training officer, always used flushing oil during the oil changes. It went like this; Drop the old oil, fill with flushing oil, which was thinner than normal oil, run for a set period, drop the flushing oil, change filters and then fill with the correct oil spec. He was highly regarded, and he ran old cars...forever! I took up this practice, for a while, but, it got harder to find the same flushing oil. All you could get was a small can to add to the old oil, before you changed the oil. That didn't seem so effective. Peace be unto you.
Look up local bulk oil dealers, they will usually sell 20 litre drums drums of oil based, not solvent based, engine flush. The drums work out to be a fraction of the price of similar products at retail parts shops. I’ve used a flush nearly every oil change on brand new cars but I’d be cautious using a flush for the first time in an older or high kilometre engine.
@@J_S209 Hey, thanks for the warning about the older engines. I was thinking about flushing my 23 years old Golf, because of the oil eating and the previous owners probably never did it but it got me curious what could go wrong if you flush an older engine ? Serious question btw.
@@sacrefice_8753 The concern always is that the flush will get some of the gunk off and it could clog the piston rings, oil passages and oil pickup
I learned this about 40 years ago from the guys who trained me to be a forklift mechanic. I was told to use dexron trans fluid, and a new filter. This is after warning the engine and letting the old oil drain overnight. Let the engine idle for 30 minutes, with the dexron and the new filter. Let the engine drain overnight again, and fill it with new oil with a fresh filter. The detergents in dexron are super effective at scrubbing carbon from your engine. Cheap and very effective way to keep an older engine running well. I've owned easily 100 cars and trucks in those 40 years, all used. Did this every time I bought a new to me vehicle, and I've never blown a motor.
I have always flushed crankcase with a couple quarts of gasoline once the old oil is drained . 348,000 miles and not using any oil between changes
The editing and subtle humor in this video is classic. Quality content all around
Lots and lots of time spent making this video. Great job! 🤘
Too much 😆
@@Deutscheautoparts just discovered your channel.. watched your episode on efforts to clean intake ports on direct injection systems.. I've had the same issues with EGR diesel engines much much worse though.. it may sound radical.. but I've two now & works a treat & very easy & if diligent it safe for the engine.. I semi fill the ports.. with closed valves.. tergo commercial paint stripper.. sounds more radical than it is.. leave it 15-30mins & water last ports clean.. initially with blaster off to flush out the stripper without it blowing onto everything.. then blaster on & ports clean like new.. airgun residual water out & wd40 ports & cylinders valves open.. air out the engine with injectors (diesel) or plugs out on the starter & reassemble.. it's a lot easier & quicker than it sounds.. cheers from New Zealand
So? Wanna do nothing and make money? Snobs.
Before engine flush was a thing we used to mix diesel into a new batch of oil. Let the engine idle for an hour. Then we leveled the pistons and filled the cylinder with the some of the oil/diesel mix and left it the night over. Emptied the cylinders, changed oil, filter and plugs. Worked really well.
We used kerosene and oil and only ran it for about 5 minutes, then drained it.
@@duckmyass First car was a 69 ford fairlane wagon 302, that I wanted to clean out, used Gunk engine flush, smell like ksene and ran 5 min and was worried what I'd done cause of some noise, I've now heard of using a quart or 2 of atf, which to me sounds more engine friendly even possibly to run it a tank or two of gas especially for older engines
@@joeboxer3365 The trick is that when you run it you don't drive it or rev it up you just let it idle so that it is getting the kerosene run all through the engine. Kerosene won't provide great lubrication like motor oil but it still provides enough that your engine won't get damaged from it as long as it isn't pushed hard in those 5 minutes. After the 5 minute run you can let it set for a while if you it is a really gunked up engine just to let it dissolve a bit more of the crude. I have even know of some guys that would pull the spark plug out after running it, then fill them with kerosene and then hand turn the engine a few rotations and let it just sit for an hour to free up the piston rings.
Now after you go nuts with the kerosene I would personally change the oil drive it 30 minutes and then change it one more time because the kerosene is never going to get completely drained the first time you do it and it will hurt the characteristics of your motor oil... but by the second oil change enough of it will be out and the small amount still in isn't going to cause you any issues.
And good bye to the lambda sensor and the catalytic converter. Your method may work on ancient engines.
somehow mineral diesel oil is better for rinse and better performance. i mix the mineral diesel oil with palm oil as an aditif for my engine. for the 1st 500km with daily driving, all the slug ways up. then change it with the new mix, tap again at 1500km. voila, my engine run smooth and only gold varnish left. i learned before with my motorcycle single piston.
I once purchased an old Range Rover V8 which was very sluggish, so I threw a bottle of Wynns's Engine Flush into the oil and drove the vehicle home (1000km journey). After 200km the engine suddenly loosened up and pulled like a work horse. Was very impressed with the Wynn's flush. I use the cheapest oil I can find and when doing an oil change, I add a bottle of Wynn's Charge to the oil and have never had a problem. I change the oil annually or 10 000km which ever comes first. I drive a 1996 Opel Kadette.
Wow...very interesting. Might try it too.
Oil flushes are meant to be use with the engine idling for 30 minutes😂😂😂, you drove the care 1000miles, that loosened the carbon but it probably put so much wear on that engine too due to thinning of the oil from that flush chemical
@@sevrajsami it'll take longer than 30 minutes for the carbon to even break down, try it on an old piston
The oil control rings are different as well. The revised ones are the wave type, opposed to the notched type.
the new pistons are different from the old, with a MUCH larger U-Flex oil scrapping ring and MUCH bigger oil return holes
wave type used in racing for decades
OIL CONTROL RINGS !!! How did he not mention that VW/Audi changed to a waffle style from the spring and pin-hole style. Oil Control is the subject of the video and its the name of these rings... But ignore that.
Same as that stupid new clutch design which forced owners to convert back to the original design while vehicle manufacturers were laughing all the way to the bank!
way back in my day we did this process but instead of using expensive treatments we used a quart or so of diesel and kerosene added to the old oil ran it for a while then changed the oil and added another quart of d/k ran it and drove it for a while then changed the oil again.. it worked pretty good at removing sludge and build up
I use 3 litres of diesel with 1 litre of oil, idle engine for 10 minutes then drain.
The B12 works. Audi 2012, 2.0TFSI, 113K miles. I did the piston soak but did it over a two week period, letting the car sit and pistons soak. I had a problem with loose carbon shifting to the downward side of the piston which caused it to bind on turning over through TDC in affected cylinders. I found it necessary to clean and suck out this carbon with all cylinder leveled half way. I used some weed whacker string on a rod though the spark plug hole to loosen the debris, I used my oil extractor and paint thinner to emulsify and remove the slurry. Once I was able to continue barring the engine though 360 degrees without binding, I continued the B12 soak and rotation. After the soak, I did a liquimoly flush with an oil change and new filter, dumped that refilled with new filter. Results....zero noted oil consumption after 800 miles so far. I would have already gone through two plus quarts at this miles. Tailpipes are soot free and dry.
Great video, glad I could help with supplying the engine! Great knowledge to be learned here, thanks Paul and everyone at DAP.
To let you know, using engine flush, follow directions and get the gunk out of engines, including piston rings. This then allows the oil rings to expand to make a better seal with the cylinder walls, reducing oil burning. All engines with over 60 K miles can benefit from this procedure.
Never heard of it like that. Is that documented?
@@brownrussell1073 No
engine flush also gunks up oil coolers....
Scotty also said an engine flush could remove some old build up that's helping to prevent more oil from being eaten up. I guess it's at your own risk. If you're refilling every 3-500 miles then I'd do it. If you're doing pretty good at every 900-1k then I'd leave well enough alone. SuperTech oil isn't that expensive only cost me $21 for 5qts @ Walmart.
Is using engine flushes a temporary or permanent fix?
I haven't used the BG kit, but I have used the Liqui-Moly ProLine Engine Flush many times. First time was on a 2006 Volvo S60 T5 with 80k miles on it. The previous owner took it to the dealer for conventional oil changes every 7500 miles. It was burning about a liter of oil every 1100 miles and after we used the engine flush, the filter was about half full of sludge flakes. It ended up using only about half a liter of oil over 5k miles after that. If I kept my foot in it, it would be a liter every 2500 miles. Second time was a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer with 260k miles on it. It hadn't had an oil change for 35k miles and had a tractor-like idle. We ended up changing the oil and filter before we did the flush and because I was busy at work, it ended up running for 45 minutes instead of 20 minutes. When we drained that oil, it was actually a dark grey instead of a black. We filled that one up with Royal Purple 5w30 and a wix XP oil filter. One funny thing was at the idle was still rough, just less so, but when you gave it throttle, the engine got so smooth you couldn't feel it running. The same thing happened with the Volvo, but it felt more like a sewing machine's soft vibration. Those are just the two notable stories for now. I might have another with a 2006 Nissan Maxima with 300k miles coming up. That one uses 2 quarts within 3500 miles.
I find 1L of oil per 1200 miles completely unacceptable. My 2011 Audi A3 has “consumed” about this quantity of oil since it was new and Audi would not do anything about it. I think the manufacturers should be held accountable! Cheers Drew
My old VW Lupo 1.4TDI used so little oil between 10K mile service intervals that no top ups were required at all and this was when the car had over 240K miles on the clock, the engine always ran like a precision Swiss watch and was surprisingly powerful for a 3 cylinder diesel with a 100mph cruising speed available if required, that car always got Shell Rotella 30W summer, 20W winter at 10K mile intervals with an occasional oil filter, I don't recall ever changing the air filter! 80 miles per UK gallon was possible if cruised at 60 mph on the motorway and the average fuel consumption was around 65 miles per UK gallon mainly urban cycle. That was a bloody good car
@@rotax636nut5 yes my 98 Seat cordoba 1.9TDI is running just fine with no oil burning and on the motorway gets 80 mpg. iI did a round trip of 1500kl in May and drove at 55mph got almost 90 mpg. these engines are up there with the old mercedes diesels
((hat does not matter much, engines that do not burn ANY oil do not last));
And it is not Audi's fault, they can't do anything about it; it is the Regulator's fault, the LAW!!! because it MANDATES Low Tension Rings to decrease friction, to save anothe drop of fuel, to SAVE THE PLANET; so, please do your part, live with the REGULATIONS, and let it BURN OIL,it's the LAW.
@@josepeixoto3384 The law does not mandate low tension rings. It mandates average MPG ratings. Audi decides whether to design their cars to be lighter and more aerodynamic or to stick with the same old and hyper-tune the engine to squeeze every last efficiency at the cost of long term general reliability.
My car burned oil bad like 2 months ago but I pulled my head of and put new valve guide seals in among other things and it hasn't lost any since 👍 I got a 130000 mile 2.slow
Those 2.slows are rock solid!
the "low tension" piston ring is a misunderstanding; the pressure put on the cylinder walls is the same (and so just as effectively prevents blowby), but because the rings are thinner, there's less surface area on which the pressure can apply force, thus applying less force and by extension less friction. The issues come when, like you say, the oil control rings get prematurely clogged or are poorly designed and it stops working.
Piston ring " LANDS " wears out letting blowby between the expanded ring and the piston itself . The only way to stop blowby in a worn engine is to bore the engine , new pistons and rings installed correctly. Then the crank and rods, cam and lifters all need to be remachined . In other words take it to the machine shop. Then break it in right , That engine rebuild in a can will insure your trip to the car dealer or machine shop with even more damage.
A piston ring must have a minimum preload, because otherwise the combustion gas can also find a way between the spring and the cylinder wall, while it has to come just behind the spring and press it against the cylinder wall.
The gas pressure can more easily get between the spring and cylinder wall than between the piston and the inside of the spring, so if this preload is not sufficient, the gas goes between the spring and cylinder wall.
The oil is then blown off and hot, so more blow-by and oil consumption + poor lubrication.
The minimum preload (surface pressure) of the spring is essential, but does not ensure the seal, only the gas pressure does.
The width of the spring is not essential for oil consumption.
The oil scraper ring also does not work properly if it has too little preload.
The gas pressure pushes the piston rings towards the cylinder wall, if they are narrower or wider, then the surface pressure of the piston rings on the cylinder wall is still the same due to this gas pressure.
That is no reason for more oil consumption.
If this pressure (surface pressure) of the springs themselves is sufficient, piston rings will work fine.
That minimum pressure MUST be there, otherwise everything will go wrong.
Oil drainage through the piston wall must of course be good, because then an extra mistake has been made.
@@heinpereboom5521 Ring and piston lands is very important . Otherwise the combustion gasses will pass between the piston and ring . I do believe that GM has looser tolerances than Ford. Ford maintains tight tolerances on their rods and mains and piston to wall clearances and land clearances . Chevys allowable was .004 max on their cranks off the showroom floor and as per the 5.3 v8 loose cylinder clearances . The Chevy runs faster off the showroom and gets to the junk yard faster. I think now most build close tolerance and have a more aggressive quality control . Now with Synthetic Oil clearances must be closer .
Oil consumption happens when the oil control ring. That’s the one below the top two compression rings becomes stuck from gunk carbon buildup, and that allows oil by and it is smeared by , outside of tolerances along the cylinder wall. The excess all that is left in the cylinder that is not managed by the bottom oil compression ring , becomes residual smeared oil that is left behind on your cylinder wall , some escapes past compression rings and becomes exposed and. Burned during combustion. Thisb exactly how an engine burns oil and in combustion chamber, There is one of the way through the valves, for the most part when your car starts burning all this is how it’s happening for the most part unless something else even worse is going on , The combustion rings are seated. it’s when the oil management ring sticking that’s when you start noticing your car is burning a court between oil changes or every 2500 miles or every thousand miles or every 500 miles however, bad it may be and it will get worse and worse and worse if you don’t free up that one bottom all management ring from being stuck , They make these oil control rings a lot more flexible than they used to. It’s all about emissions car don’t strain as bad don’t produce much carbon, with regard to how these more limber high efficiency rings are made in engineered monoxide motor vehicles had much stiffer or control rings and they didn’t stick very easy but if you wanna know the main way or get by a piston, that’s it You can also come in through the valves, but as far as the majority of oil burning, that’s where you’re getting it unless you got something going on like a blown head gasket you know or something abnormal like that leaking valve cover O-rings a top year spark plugs, etc. etc. Overtime this abnormality can cause your compression rings and possibly even your oil management ring to become dislodged and unseeded usually starts on one side protrudes, but just a fraction of centimeter and gets worse and that’s why you scarring every year on the walls takes place and you start to lose Even more and more compression and tell the problem just gets worse and worse until you have no compression on that particular cylinder that’s oil 101 exactly how it goes down for the most part with regard how the majority of your oil burning.
The 30psi increase is certainly an improvement... 5psi is surely within the error margin just after an oil change lol.
I guess removing engine deposits is a pretty random outcome also. Sometimes the deposits might help nurse a worn part seal better and othertimes prevent a good seal.
@@itsthemetho Agree 100%, especially for leaks, lol. Strong believer in - if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I do 3,000-mile oil changes, which for me is the best preventative. If it were oil-burning 1 liter per 172 miles (!), you're up for big bucks anyway, so you've got nothing to lose trying these.
@@johnrroberts7900 Yeah a liter/quart every 172 miles is once every 2-3 days if you have a normal commute. You'd be spending almost as much on oil as fuel.
One thing we all can gather from this video is check your oil more often. If your car doesn’t have an oil level sensor, you can easily damage your engine by running your engine too low on oil!
Also I run “Marvel’s Mystery Oil” in my personal vehicles and I don’t have any oil consumption issues.
u mean add it to the engine oil or to the fuel?
I used to run MMO in the oil on my old Volvo, really helped those hydraulic lifters. It can be used as an oil additive.
At Honda we have 3 successful BG dynamic services and those were the only ones sold the past year so 3/3 isn’t bad so far lol I know it’s a whole different brand/engine (09-15 V6 with VCM) but wanted to mention in case people got the wrong idea of BG, they’re great products and work extremely well! Hence the slight improvement from the Passat you did. Based on potential shitty maintenance. That carbon is a bitch to break down based on my fair share of engine tear downs. Either way I love using Liqui Moly stuff they recommend the flush every 30k and it helps out a lot as well!
Did these engines stop burning oil ? I have a v6 Honda and am trying to see if there’s anything I can do to slow the burning. Burns about a quart every 2,500miles.
@@matthewfreidus5034 I currently drive a 2007 Pilot with 226,000 miles that uses almost no oil. I previously had a much newer Ridgeline that burned about a quart every 3,000 miles. I think a lot has to do with the thinner oil used in newer engines (0W-20) and the low-tension piston rings.
put 7 spoons of bearing greace in engine with old oil idol for 30 minutes drain oil put new oil filter and fresh oil engine goes forever maximum performance
I use the proline flush every 5th oil change, even on new engines. The best way to fix a problem is to avoid one to begin with.
I use the liquimoly engine flush which I buy from Napa in my 2003 BMW 330ci. The M54b30 is notorious for burning oil. On 2 separate cars with the same engine I went from burning a qt every 400-500 miles to a qt every 1200 or so. I then use it before every other oil change along with 5w40 liqui moly leichluft oil and it just keeps getting better. Both cars are an excess of 230k miles.
Thank you this gives me hope on my 330xi 263k miles. Burning a quart every 450 miles.
Were you having blue smoke at full throttle?
I get blue smoke only at a cold start will this help out?
I've been using liquid moly engine flush every 3rd oil change on my 2012 prius. Now on 360,000 miles and burning about 300ml every 10,000 miles. Highly recommend and if your going to do this start before it has oil consumption issues.
BG Dynamic Engine Restoration Service kit majorly improved my Camry consumption. I was burning one quart weekly (500 mile) After this treatment I have only burned 1/3 quart in the last 1000 miles. So grateful for this video. Thanks for attaching amazon link! $350.00 with taxes is a lot of money but should save my converter with the excessive oil consumption. So in my case it was a success!
Rick
I have an 2006 e46 330ci with the M54 engine. I currently have 165k miles on the car and the valve stem seals have started to leak. I get blue smoke when I give the car gas after it idles for about 15-20 minutes. I recently tried Liquimoly oil saver and it has completely solved the issue. I used 1 full can and half of another and so far it’s been close to 2k miles and I can not get it to smoke. These really are great products
Hurry up and sell it!
@@zechariahkress3741 why do you say that?
Then you dont have valve seal issues.... NO motor flush is going to fix wasted valve seals
A ton of Honda Accords and Toyota Camries from the 2008 to 2012 era are burning oil. This is quite a good video for such owners too
Working on VWs and Audis professionally in my experience I’ve seen aftermarket oil filters make oil consumption much worse especially with the very cheap ones and it’s one of the first things that Audi has you check when performing oil consumption measurements
If its burning oil and its not the pcv/ccv just bin it. Piece of shit engines in piece of shit cars. Same as BMW N63.
What kind of oil filters should be used? It's odd though, how does an aftermarket filter affect oil consumption?
@@akdomun depending on what level a filter may pull material out, it could strip wear additives etc or restrict flow. That would be my educated guess.
The only reason for oil consumption is the bad construction of pistons and especially too weak piston rings.
THAT must be fixed first, those after market filters are definitely not the main cause, they are said to mask the real problem by garages.
I have often seen it with car engines and certainly also with motorcycles, think of BMW.
All kinds of stories about oil and running in were nonsense, only the construction was not good, but they did not want to admit it, all at the expense of the customers, just like Audi, Volkswagen and BMW.
Apparently modern engineers can't make good engines after 150 years because they don't understand how it really should work, I'm 100% sure of that.
@@akdomun I’d recommend oem the cheaper filters can change oil pressure due to the design
Back in the day you would run one quart of ATF in place of one quart of oil during an oil change. Drive the car for a hundred miles or so and than do a complete oil change. This trick works well for a sticky lifter.
Enjoyed the video guys. That was some impressive improvement on cylinder 4. Glad to hear my 08 Grand Prix burning a quart every 4,000 miles is probably still in spec. 😄
Have liked and subscribed!
2014 VW Passat 1.8 bought new, current mileage 169,943 miles very low oil consumption , runs great. 100 mile trip , set cruise at 57 , slow lane windows and sunroof open 41.2 mpg!
Yes, close to 170,000 miles. Best car Ive owned in my 67 years, and ZERO SQUEAKS OR RATTLES.
I USE BG, MOA, EPR and 44K since new. Can't convince me that BG isn't an effective high quality premium result if used properly. Thanks BG!
You nailed it there, low tension rings may be part of it, but also thinner oil, longer oil drain intervals, and lackadaisical maintenance by users. My guess is its mainly owners blowing off maintenance. My 2011 tdi cjaa with 225000 miles, no additives and only on time changes with good as specified synthetic oil eats about a liter and a half in the standard 10k interval, nothing odd at all.
Weak piston rings is the main cause.
The long oil change intervals are indeed bad, that is a false economy and also has consequences for the often poorly constructed camshaft drives.
The thinner oil only gives more consumption if the construction of the piston and springs is not good, otherwise it is not that bad. (if it is synthetic oil)
Your oil consumption is good after so many miles and will stay that way for a while.
You are in luck with your car engine.
modern engines burn oil,,fact..i have a clevo, thrashed, change oil every 3 months,ish.. doesnt use a drop..14 yrs..beat that.. synthetic oil is crap..expensive,,crap..
I have a vacum pump I used to suck the oil out. It gets most of it and I can change it easily now. I change my oil regular 5000 miles
Old cars also burned oil like crazy, long before “weak rings” became a thing.
The physical construction of engines has vastly improved, as have the materials used. Owner maintenance on the other hand, has plummeted.
I have a 14 Audi TT that was burning 1 quart every 500 miles...I flushed engine with BG109 before oil change but I ran it for 50 mins at 2300 rpm...more time than recommended. It now does not burn any oil.....Amazing Stuff!
I normally do not tend to like videos. But as you guys spend so much effort in this video, I definitely made sure to hit the like button
Great tip (worked for me!): I saw a "youtuber" recommend using Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to "free" the faulty piston ring. So, I said to myself, "what can you lose?!" I bought 3 bottles of the stuff & poured it in a nearly-empty gas tank...Voila!!! No more oil-burning for my 2012, 2.4L KIA Sorento engine!!! Oh, I forgot to mention that I filled the tank with Shell premium gas, after pouring the Berryman's!!!
Great video man! EPR is BGs version of LMs engine flush, same purpose and price range. We sell BG Dynamic for the badly sludged ones, EPR for consumption and pm with BG MOA, with amazing results.
If you want a GREAT top engine soak product (for the upper rings) BG also has some options. 1- #201 for an injection system flush that digs deep. 2- #210 fuel system cleaner (older chemistry) but work amazing for a too engine soak.
Feel free to reach out if you guys need more info. Great job guys!
Great video. The key to these engines is good oil every 5000 miles! My 2014 Passat burns about 1/2 liter every 5000. Usually, the oil level is good till about 4000, then I just it off with the extra that is leftover in the bottle and all is good. Using Liqui Moly is key for VW's.
the problem is with the TSI/TFSI engines (caused from a misconcept from the piston oil scrapping rings, solved only in 2018) ,and if the problem appears did rise the oil consumption at +1 liter per 1000km! the key for VW (and all modern engines) is to make oil changes all 10 000km or 1x year ...
In younger days I became owner of a 70 datsun station with with see through rockers and a quart a week oil burning habit, first getting gently used oil from a friend, to finally adding some gear lube 90wt as a replacement, it cut use by half and it was better than running it low, just had to change the mixture adjust leaner so it wasn't fouling plugs, that car was a fun summer beater for early 80s
The suspicious high carbon build up on the valves may be caused by extreme low rev and short distance driving!
I have a few comments. I work in the service department at Hyundai and we are having a hard time with oil burning on some of our vehicles, most of these vehicles are customers who never service with us. I've heard the low tension rings reasoning before, and I'm positive that's part of the issue. The most common comment I get from these customers is "I've owned many cars and have never had issues before, and my maintenance habits have not changed" I try to explain the low tension ring reasoning, and they just fluff it off 🤷♂️ Honestly, I feel they should just get back to regular rings IMHO.
Second. Is it me, or did the updated Audi piston have a thicker oil control ring gap?
Third, would.you be willing to try seafoam engine treatment on another oil consumption car? I'd be interested to see how it works as well.
Thanks for the video. I'm tempted to make business cards with a link to this video, and give them to customers who are lost when I try to explain this phenomenon.
I think Project Farm did a video with Seafoam, here's a link to a bunch of videos on the subject.
ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=project+farm+seafoam.
I own a 1999 Hyundai Accent with the 5sp. manual, and it's holding up quite well with over 180k miles on it. I did a compression check a few thousand miles ago and it was hitting close to 200 psi per cylinder. I found it almost perfectly preserved in a thicket of blackberry bushes where it was forgotten for 12 years. The owner bought it brand new and put 159k miles on it in the five years he drove it. I gave him $300 bucks and replaced the ECM and the fuel pump to get it going and since then I have only had to replace the lower control arms in the front and the struts. It was almost pristine in appearance until I moved to the city where it has suffered the abuse of @$$H0L#$ who hate everything.
Then I was sideswiped on the freeway while on my way to work. I've always wanted to test my theory on maintaining control of the car after being sideswiped, too many Bond movies and episodes of the A-Team are perhaps to blame for that. Weird thing is, that practice kicked in although I never practiced it, while I maintained my forward direction without getting outside my lane, the girl that struck me went spinning out of control. I got over to the shoulder as fast as I could and immediately ran down to her car . She was outside of it kinda walking away in a daze of confusion.
I got her settled down and made sure she was OK, she was further confused by this as she felt I should be angry. I laughed and said, " If I thought you had done this maliciously, I would be. Even then, I would still want to make sure you were OK considering what happened after being struck. Besides, they are just cars we can get new ones, we don't get new selves if we are damaged beyond repair."
Her insurance Co. gave me $3200 and change for my car, not without me pointing out the fact that Blue Book and actual replacement costs are two entirely different things. do yourself a favor if you don't already know this and employ this knowledge should you ever have to deal with a claim. Otherwise you could end up with thousands of dollars less that you are entitled to. I used the money to buy a Honda Accord, but not before buying the Hyundai back. It is still very driveable as it was only affected cosmetically. Just to have around as a spare, I'll eventually get around to doing the body work, it's on loan to a friend in need at the moment though. It's a damn solid car, the second of which I have owned, I'd still have the first one but an ex-roommate/friend sent it to the boneyard fearing I had abandoned it. The title was still in his name unfortunately, and more unfortunately you don't find many if any of these cars in there anymore, hence why I bought a Honda, lol.
its because hyundai gdi engine is a garbage. currently own cadenza 2.4 theta 2 engine in it. I feel like carbon is building up crazy in it. The car only has 80000kms on it. now it has funky idealing in cold start and burning over a liter of oil between the oil change
additionally hyundai is going back to mpi engines for reasons except their performance line models
@@SJ-kz4mv did you install an oil catch can?
21:24 Large second compresion ring gap is to try and prevent "ring flutter".
I have ring flutter every morning after my cup of coffee
@@richardburns9772 me too only I'd describe mine as more like a ring splutter..
Way back I got a VW powered Sandrail that was burning a crazy amount of oil. I suspected that the rings were carboned up and stuck because the distributor timing advance wasn't working. I decided to give it a Hail Mary and used Seafoam down the carb flooding the engine out several times. After running a whole can through it over the course of a few hours letting it soak between floodings it stopped burning oil and it ran great.
I could have sworn that Audi told us that 0.5L per 1000km was the acceptable oil consumption on the E888 TFSI 2.0 engines. :)
Thank god mine doesnt have this. Still love watching these real issues and fixes videos than some cray engine swap ones.
I am running EA888 Gen3b with chip tuning for 130k kilomiters. St1 is last 100k
Changing oil every 10k kilomiters.
No any issues. This last gen is really good and long lasting 👍
@@ToCostas I agree, they apparently did fix this issue back in 2014. So 2014 and up should be better in terms of oil.
@@F.S92 yeah the wife's '14 Jetta with the gen3 1.8 is fine.
I change it around 6-7k cause it gets a fair amount of highway use.
It'll take maybe a half quart by around 4k or so.
If I get the chance ,I'll check it and top it off with some MMO a few hundred miles before I'm gonna dump it to help clean a little.
At a consumption of 0.5 liters per 1000 km, the engine must be overhauled.
I used to have a two-stroke motorcycle and it used much less oil, but it was then seen as polluting and oil wasting.
The real problem is the surface pressure of the piston rings on the cylinder wall.
This surface pressure is simply known, but for less friction and so-called fuel savings, this surface pressure is lowered, but that is completely incorrect, because the misery that ensues is much worse than those few % fuel savings.
Furthermore, the piston must also be well constructed.
When I see the construction of these pistons in this film, I immediately think of the garbage can, they are so badly made, just rubbish.
Unfortunately, after 150 years of making engines, people have forgotten how to do that, at the expense of customers, who are just guinea pigs, they don't test anything in the factory, otherwise they wouldn't put it on the market, because the brand name will also break.
Camshaft drives are also a disaster, together with the far too long oil change intervals.
Cylinder 2 and 3 are interesting, i had a similar thing happen with a 98 grand cherokee with 300000 miles. I actually had above spec compression on cyl6 which i believe is carbon buildup on crown and combustion chamber
Very cool. I once flushed a 72 LeMans, and had clear oil with every oil change since. I changed it four to three times a year and used it to deliver pizza. I never could figure out why newer cars always turned the oil black no matter how often I changed the oil. 😕 Cool video! 😃
EGR
EGR, and Direct injection engines tend to run hot in the combustion chamber and really warm up the ring area
Have seen on two occasions those older pistons cracked where that missing notch is under the oil control ring. While I’m not sure why the piston was updated strength in that area is a concern.
If the BG product did that to the filter surely it will damage seals and gaskets
Nah, it just softens them a little. They harden again with the fresh oil.............we hope.
I am sure that someone else may have commented on this already, but the Cylinder 2 in the first compression test according to what we saw on the video only actually went up to 145 to 150. So there wasn't a loss of compression necessarily between the final compression testing on Cylinder 2 and the initial testing on that cylinder.
Also, I get the feeling that part of the reason for a decrease in vehicles lasting as long can also have to do with the large increase in the use of ethanol being added to gasoline.
Chemicals can help temporarily, but in the end the piston rings have to be changed. sometimes your car will smoke upon starting it but stop after it runs a little. This is usually caused by oil leaking from beneath the valves this can be fixed by removing the heads and taking them to a machine shop to have the valve guides knurled.
Thanks, very good video…
On the lighter side my 2-stroke bike used to consume around 1 liter of oil every 700 kms, was a good one 2 decades ago!
The last CPRA engine I ringed the oil rings were completely stuck in the groove. I used Chem dip and a broken ring to get the carbon out of the grooves. It was like concrete.
I'm a retired ASE Master Technician that was trained at the GM training college back in the 90's and I can only tell you my experience on American cars regarding this oil burning issue and what I would recommend to my customers.
If it were a Chevy 305 V8 circa 1985-89 and was burning 1 quart per 500 miles it would likely be an especially hard block where the rings wouldn't break in to the cylinder walls and I would offer the "treatment" we used to try: adding 1/2 teaspoon of bartender's brass polish to the oil and running it for about 1/2 hour at idle. Often this would cut the consumption down to 1 quart per 5000 miles and that's not bad actually. (Idling would not let the bearings make contact and the very fine abrasive would not wear out the bearings.)
Another thing I would suggest is that they just keep adding oil and never change it, just replace the filter every 5000 miles. Constantly replacing the oil replenishes the additive package in the oil and may eventually get the rings to seat and stop the oil consumption.
Beyond that, I would ask the customer what he wants to do: Add oil every 500 miles that's gonna cost $1000 over the next 50,000 miles, or pay $5000 for an engine rebuild. How long is he gonna keep the car? Is it worth the extra $4000 for him to not hassle with the oil burning? Also, it's been my experience that engines that burn that much oil can last for a million miles because the detergents and lubrication modifiers make all the parts last a lot longer.
hi I can't remember where I saw this information but the Audi engine from 2009 and up that burns oil had the rings too thin compared to the new updated ring and piston combination and the modification you mentioned above the piston pins are probably helping I work on VW and Audi cars but never had the chance to rebuild one for high oil consumption only timing chains replacements but I have a few customers that had the Audi dealer fix the oil consumption with new piston and all of them stoped burning oil and I have seen cars with the factor is specs and intervals and they still had the problem with oil burning.
Perhaps you are not aware that the engineers at Audi and VW and other brands no longer know how to construct pistons and piston rings?
Chains and camshaft drives are also often incorrectly constructed.
After 150 years, modern engineers no longer know how to make pistons and springs.
That is a complicated matter, people think too easily about it, they should ask the retired engineers that and do not want to reinvent the wheel.
My vehicle has been burning a lot of oil lately x thank you so much for doing this video. I’ll be calling my dealer tomorrow to see how much the engine cleaning service costs.
You can do that, but it won't solve the problem.
The only reason for oil consumption is the bad construction of pistons and especially too weak piston rings.
THAT must be fixed first, other things are definitely not the main cause, they are said to mask the real problem by garages.
I have often seen it with car engines and certainly also with motorcycles, think of BMW.
All kinds of stories about oil and running in were nonsense, only the construction was not good, but they did not want to admit it, all at the expense of the customers, just like Audi, Volkswagen and BMW.
Apparently modern engineers can't make good engines after 150 years because they don't understand how it really should work, I'm 100% sure of that.
So how did it work. I tried it and my car went from about 1 quart every 900 miles to 1 quart every 2K miles. GTI at 230K miles
I've had multiple 2.0 tdi, 2.0 Audi and 3.6 VR engines and a 1.4 in a jetta and I can honestly say I've never had a oil burning issue. (knocks on wood) Heck I even have a Ford Duratec with 230k miles on it (all highway though) and it uses less than half a quart over 10k mile OCI. All have received OEM spec oil or better usually Mobil1 or Castrol Edge. Engines with chains get 5k OCI and those with belts usually 10k oci.
Lmao your lucky, I've had a dozen vws and they all burned oil
@@NOTaGLI yes, and you probably drive all of them as nice as you could, right? a he said in video, if it's burning oil etc, it's probably you. i can confirm that. ford was the worst.
@@izoyt never had a brand new VW, always maintained them well myself. All my used turbo vw's burned oil. And I definitely drive the cars hard lol
@@NOTaGLI when you buy used you have to factor in the guy who didn't follow engine break-in directions flooring it as soon as he started it and never bothered changing the oil because he knew he'd just turn it in at the end of his lease
no amount of maintenance afterwards can undo all that
Idk tbh I only work on my own Volkswagens. But the mechanics I know have all said every VW they have seen come through there bay had oil bleeding through the charge pipes. Imo it's just a matter of time before the turbos start leaking oil.
My car is burning oil and I was thinking to replace my engine with a used one but after this video I decided not to go for that, instead I get repaired it with updated pistons and piston rings probably. Thanks for the great video. Subscribed and I am happy that I did it.
I had some oil burning issue on my 1.8T and then on my 2.0pd, and switching from 5w30 to 5w40 completely solved the issue and its still factory spec... My 1.8T 20v was going through the dipstick every 700miles, then after switching to 5w40 I never had to top up between the 5k oil change interval. My passat 2.0pd when I got it I didnt have time to do the oil change on it myself so took it to a friends garage and they put 5w30 in it, after just a week of driving I already had an oil level warning. Change that too to 5w40 I only had to top up once between changes which I do at 8k miles. Oil in question is Mobil 3000 X1.
I do the same thing with my 1.8t 20v and mini cooper s N14, both cars use considerably less oil now I put 5w40 in them.
these engines were never designed for 5w30, they made that the spec for fuel economy reasons
5w40 should be the right oil
Stinking CAFE killing your engine
I have a 96 landcruiser with around 170k miles. 4.5l straight 6
When towing a heavy trailer and doing a lot of engine braking it was using around 1 liter of oil per 1200 miles. Also if you left it standing for a few days, it would blow some smoke when you started it.
I thought it may be leaking valve stem seals, so I put in some Liqui molly Motor Oli Saver.
The old level dropped about 2mm in 500 miles and then stabilised. After 2500 miles the level hasn't dropped any further. Also the oil is much cleaner - still an Aber colour with a tinge of grey.
Get rid of it while getting is good.
The Honda 3.5 V6 has this issue due to the VCM which pulls oil into the cylinders when it shuts down the back 3 for "eco" mode. I wish there was a shop anywhere close to me that offered the BG dynamic service as I am dealing with one that keeps oil fouling the #3 spark plug.
VCM Muzzler...
Weird, my family has 2020 Honda Pilot with the V6 and a 2017 accord V6 last one with the V6, both with VCM and absolutely 0 problems with both
Liqui Moly's engine flush seemed to stop the oil burning in my M54B30. Could also be because I started driving more economically due to gas prices, lol
Oil burning goes way down when you drive more economically vs high revs.
bmw's of that vintage always need valve stem oil seals. you can do this in situ with the right tools, very seldom to the m54 need piston rings, they DO like heavy driving tho, its definatly good for them so dont be afraid to go for it occationally. Great engine, only bettered by the M57 when reliability matters.
My engine was rebuilt and it now burns oil. Especially when I put the pedal down. I have scoped the valves and I can see oil pooled up after sitting for a day. I’m thinking my seals, guides, and rings were done poorly. Unfortunately, the shop that rebuilt it is 3 hours away. I did a compression test and I had 120 psi on all 8 cylinders on my ‘72 Torino 302, so it’s a bit confusing.
I’ve had 5 GTIs, all burned a bit of oil during changes. Always had to top off a few times between the 5k when I do a full change.
Same with my R.
After rebuilding the vr6 engine in my gti, it never burned a drop even after 2500 and beating on it.
I rebuild air cooled VW engines, and I always use gapless rings (Total Seal). Are gapless rings OK for rebuilds on modern engines like the Audi 2.0/B7? It seems that it would solve the same issue that eliminating the small cut out below the oil scraper in the first piston design solved by reducing blow-by. Also, did Audi/VW make a change with the material the rings are made of along with the updated pistons? From my understanding, part of the reason for excessive oil burning in the 2.0L is also due to the metallurgy makeup of the rings. That they were either too hard or soft for the sleeves, and thus don't break-in well.
Honda has been using low-tension rings for years. The older 5w-30 lubricated engines usually only presented a problem when habitually driven hard for many miles. I think the lighter oils spec'd in modern vehicles, paired with forced induction, is compounding this problem to an unacceptable level in some models.
Why not use thicker oils?
0
@@chegadorchegando5872 US CAFE standards.
If the piston ring tension isn't too low you'll be fine, so what do you mean by "low tension"?
I only drive ve commodores engines get a bad rep iv had issues not those issues just clock spring , gaskets ect nothing like chains
My oil burner ('13 JSW TDI) doesn't apply here but I appreciate the time a relevance presented in this video. Very informative!
I wonder if those pistons were bad from the factory. Not familiar with too many different manufacturers designs but the ones I am familiar with would occasionally see the 3rd groove notch as a defect. All the pistons that we did were designed like the replacements.
Bravo, sir ! Gotta be the most comprehensive and thorough engine oil burning video i've seen. Cheers.
My A4 B7 2.0 TFSI was running really cold (65-70 deg C) and running through about a half L of oil every fill up (400mi). Since replacing the thermostats (x2) the oil consumption has dropped massively to something like 0.5L per 1200mi+. Presumably because the piston rings are heating up and expanding to reduce the gap through which oil can get past?
The only reason for oil consumption is the bad construction of pistons and especially too weak piston rings.
THAT must be fixed first, other things are definitely not the main cause, they are said to mask the real problem by garages.
I have often seen it with car engines and certainly also with motorcycles, think of BMW.
All kinds of stories about oil and running in were nonsense, only the construction was not good, but they did not want to admit it, all at the expense of the customers, just like Audi, Volkswagen and BMW.
Apparently modern engineers can't make good engines after 150 years because they don't understand how it really should work, I'm 100% sure of that.
@@heinpereboom5521 yes, the only solution to fix the misconcept is to replace the pistons (or modify it: some did this in Germany) with a much larger U-flex oil scrapping ring (same ring type as on older engines), and very important :change oil OFTEN, all 10 000km is ok but not more!
@@leneanderthalien You are right, those people in Germany know more about engines than the engineers of manufacturers, which is a shame actually.
Also perfectly correct not to use the engine oil for too long, it is the most important engine part, even if it is liquid.
Cold engine, choke, cold start injector, ecm cold map sends larger amounts of fuel through, DILUTING engine oil, allowing it to EVAPORATE in the crankcase and get past the rings and burn off. Worsr case scenario was car driven daily five or ten miles for years was suddenly freeway driven for two hours! The diluted oil flashed into vapor was burnt by the engine suddenly consuming all the oil. BLAM no engine oil, rod went through the engine block. SEIZED
WOW .5l for 1200 miles??? Odd I will stay with my 5.3 LS motor as it looses less than a cup of oil per 3.5k miles. My wife's 2010 Milan uses the same and it has 140k miles on it.
There are a huge number of videos with regard to engine oil usage on Utube. This one is a good one.
I personally have used BG’s EPR can (Engine Performance Restoration) on older Subaru engines that burn a fair amount and it dramatically decreased the oil consumption. On my daily driver Legacy with over 300k miles it changed from burning a quart every thousand to less than a quart between oil changes (4-5k). They make great stuff. I suspect this Passat will continue to burn less and less as that can of additive runs it’s course
Your answer is the updated oil control ring. The old 2pc ring clogs easily and does not allow drainback. The updated piston has a 3pc oil ring and as you stated the cutout was updated.
Biggest issue I have with oil burning is it eventually ruins the cats. So you can either keep adding oil but eventually spend $1500+ on new catalytic converters, or you can replace/rebuild the engine for $2500+. Regardless, it's hard to justify this type of repair on a older car, other than just dumping it.
I didnt know that burning oil can ruin cats thats messed up i got tired of spending endless money replaced cat , then manifold , then spark plugs , fuel injector. I sold my car . Im done .
But some cars just burn more oil than others and that doesn’t mean u need a new engine lol u dummy
@@n.ll.8796 Well it can clog your cat but you can use cataclean and that's it problem solved.
Been advised not to put a ring gap along the crank pin. Need to segment rings 120 degrees apart.
After spending $3500 for piston, ring and timing chain replacement on my 2012 A4 2.0 Audi split the cost) the motor again failed at 60K. I paid $12,000 for a crate motor from Audi. Purchased the car new in 2012, car was meticulously maintained. Total invested in the vehicle has been $83,000 to date.
I got my pistons and timing replaced for $1500 and sold the car. Never buying post 2005 cars again
Gee. That’s not something I am willing to spend.
You sir, are a true Audi enthusiast. 83k could of bought a RS3 with some tasteful mods.
I guess for every story like yours there's someone like me, with a 2016 GTI with stg2 tune (making almost 50% more power than stock) which spends most of its life on the track with engine at the redline under 30+ psi of boost and needs less than 1/2 quart top off between the 8-9k miles oil changes. Currently at 67k miles and zero issues.
My 2015 TDI needs about a quart in between the 10k (mostly highway) miles oil changes
I'd call it the luck of the draw, with the car and the dealer techs doing the work (every time I had to take any of my VWs to the dealer for any warranty work they would break something that wasn't broken when the car came in) :)
@@raoulrr amazing stuff bro except the issues are with ea888 08-12
Really a great instructional video with amazing results. We own a 2014 VW 2.0 TSI that has only 41K miles. We bought it used but have all the service records. Over the history of the VW< the oil was changed at a maximum of 3000 mile intervals. Oil gets changed by us once a year which isn't many miles. The past few years, it amounts to 1000 to 1500 miles per year. The tail pipe is black inside and it coated with a thick oily sooty goo. Not sure why this is happening? The oil usage is a quart every 1000 miles (every oil change). Maybe we need piston soaking or a new PCV assembly? I knew when we bought a VW, it was a bad idea. My 2002 SAAB 9-5 has 180K miles, 90% town miles. Doesn't burn a drop of oil and all cylinders compression are within 5 pounds of each other. I guess SAAB knew how to engineer a Car but GM destroyed the company. Plan to drive the SAAB for many more years. The VW, not so much.
Does this problem apply to the 2017 passat 1.8 looks similar to the one in video. What year were the pistons updated?
It is really only an issue if you do not change your oil every 3-5k miles.
@@jb40now47 3к interval is something to go for, if you have your engine chip tuned. Otherwise it is a waste of money 🤷♂️
@@jb40now47 do it evey 5k on the dot got the shwaben oil extractor super easy but i do drive a little hard only 170bhp lol
@@MrLilc337 Then you should be good to go.
The liqui moly flush actually worked wonders for me, except that i also ran it for 45 mins at 3,000 rpms, drained and refilled, my engine used to burn around 2 quarts between oil changes and the throttle body had a light coat of oil, PCV was new, surprisingly spark plugs werent fouled or dark, they were in excellent shape in a year interval
3 months after the liqui moly, the throttle body is DRY, and burns around 1/2 qt between oil change, engine also revs up to 3500 rpms soooo much quieter, totally recommend to try it out
The problem is actually worse when you use low-tension piston rings in engines with gasoline direct injection that works in the range of 1000psi or more. Not only do you get oil burning, but you also get gasoline dilution of the oil, some of which is taken care of if you keep the engine hot and it is allowed to evaporate out of the oil and go back into the intake via the pcv system. But, if it is persistent, it's worse than oil burning because it alters the viscosity of the oil and destroys it's lubricating properties which means you're not just burning oil, you've got metal-on-metal contact and premature wear.
You did a great job on this, a proper investigation following the scientific method. The improvement in compression on that bad cylinder was really significant. The other small 5psi variations in compression could be just random variations like whether the gaps on the piston rings happen to rotate around to line up with each other. The reduction in oil consumption is also a significant result. Some really worthwhile conclusions made here.
I have a 1.9TDI with 287.000km, oil level didn't change since the service 10.000km ago
goes to show that regular service with cheap oil (at less than half the price of castrol) is better than skipping service with good oil
I made it to this channel because of what I watch daily. This was great. I followed and shared
why are all the technical mechanics all not in the UK, no mechanic i know does this thorough work on cars i wish we had mechanics like yourself around here
Back in the 60's when I was rather poor, we used to drain the oil & fill the engine full of water right down the carb, and leave it set for a day or 2. Water dissolves carbon. A complete drain, followed by a diesel fuel flush, followed by new oil, run maybe 20 minutes or so, change oil again. Sometimes it took a while to get it running again, maybe even pull starting. Even many automatics could be pull started before 1967. They would smoke like a coal stove for a bit, bit most of the oil burning was gone, and we got a lot more miles out of an engine that was already done before. We also ran straight trans fluid in the crankcase if they weren't too bad, and after a few hundred miles of taking it easy dirty lifters & such would quiet right down. I watched an old man pour a water/ scouring powder solution slowly thru a bad oil burner at a fast idle to reseat the rings. It was amazing how well it worked. Poor people had to improvise & adapt.
*Thats scary... If it broke down the oil filter like that... Whats it doing to your seals?!*
The exposure to the seals will be a lot less than the full flow oil filter, also the short duration of use would limit the risk. It would probably be safe to assume there would be some buildup everywhere in the engine so by the time that has been removed the flushing agent would be drained out, hence the chance of damaging seals would be low.
Thats why you buy cheap oil after using that flush stuff, run it about 500miles and change oil and filter again for a better oil and oem filter.
I’m have a 2011 S5, the CAUA V8… the oil level drops just less than 1L every 10,000km. It was well maintained by the previous owner, and I’ve done oil change every 10,000km. Very thankful to not be experiencing oil burn problems.
Where was the $20 fix?
Berrymans B12
I guess the answer was no, you can’t fix it for $20
@@Tenacious_Schemer the Berrymans B12 should be under $20
I guess my question is why would you not think that change in the piston is significant. Personally I think it's hugely significant, it removes all but a slight amount of oil from coming in contact with the ring groove. Interesting video.
Thank you for every video posted! I love your content, so much passion and knowledge
I'm curious if you left it to run for an hour and half at 1500 rpm if you would get similar results.
The exception to the rule of not buying another engine is if you find a really low mileage engine with sweet smelling oil and clean Spark plugs that don’t look recently replaced. They are out there so keep an eye out for them …
2001 v6 Accord. I run amsoil signature and change oil once a year. Works out to about 13k miles. Now has 320k and does not burn more than 1/4” down on the dipstick over that year. Good oil works.
Really interesting. Thanks. You and a few others have convinced me to cut my oil change intervals in half.
I have a 2018 Passat 2.0TSi with this exact problem and of course VW has hid behind their obscene high oil consumption tolerance spec. I had it in for oil consumption test before warranty and VW just said it was within spec, and problem has only gotten worse.
I'm going through 1L/1300km on average right now. Just had turbo replaced due to slow boost code, and cat was plugged putting car into limp mode.
Definitely going to try this.1
Thaaaaank youuuuu!!
My motor started burning and after discussing the issue with the shop i use for repairs they used a moly motor flush and changed the brand of oil on top of moving from 5-30 to 10-30 as the motor had over 225k miles. This boils down to trusting your shop you use. Quite often you can go in and get some advice about other issues as well that you can do on your own.
I have used a KOH device to split distilled water into hydrogen and oxygen for about ten years now on various engines. When the water recombines in the combustion chamber
it steam cleans the carbon out and you lower the amount of oil burnt. You can feel the engine running better, it's more economical and it stays clean. You should try it!!
Grove was eliminated to give more rigidity to the area, since oil return ring size was increased significantly and excessive material was removed . Also that grove original was made to improve oil return to the pan, since they updated with larger oil return rings that grove is not needed anymore.
This help me alot that 1.8 was a bad make thanks alot I've learned how to keep it running smooth I been keeping the piston clean up top to keep a good spark now I knw wat to do thanks alot 👌🏿
Causes of oil burning aside from the ones you already know (1) engine overheating non oem thermostat, non oem cooling fan temperature switches, poor coolant circulation from corrosion buildup in block and head from using tap water mixed with antifreeze (always use distilled water), causing ring tension loss (2) ring wear on ring land side or worn out beveled ring lands inside ring grove allowing rings to tilt on upstroke downstroke pumping oil into cylinders (3) defective pcv system allowing oil into intake manifold (4) plugged drain holes in oil control ring lands not allowing scraped out to go back into oil pan (5) oil dilution from fuel injection system delivering excessive fuel during cold start, warmup, or dribbling injectors not sealing off with engine off.
My wife's car suffers from the pcv problem, Chevy equinox....
@@gristlevonraben The earlier Equinox's also had major problems with defective piston rings that lost their tension extremely early, and causes excessive oil burning.
You forgot one……worn valve seals…..typical for VW’s…. Jim
Excellent information. Subscribed and thumbs up! Do you have any videos on T5 Transporters, and their various issues? Cheers from down under. Melbourne, Australia.
This was a great video to watch. Hopefully all maintenance concerns and issues will be behind me when I buy an electric vehicle this year.
hahahaha. Just a battery replacement
@@arnog9959 Just like an engine replacement. What's your point?
Going from mechanical issues to electrical issues
@@rccl4487 My brother owns 2 Teslas. He's had them for 5 years without issue and they are on the original brakes. No oil changes or any other maintenance. I'll give that a try.
Wait a few more years and see what the battery pack cost to replace.
Nice reflection in the rear window at 26:20. Its just an illusion but cool that it looks as it does especially on a VW.
Piston soaking can help with oil consumption, I think its probably the best option since it comes in direct contact with the piston and rings.
Just takes longer for it to work its way threw the rings.
Yup, soak it with SeaFoam.
I used to sell BG products when I worked at a dealership. They are great products and I recommend the ATC additive for automatic transmissions. I went through the training with BG specialists about there products and I also went through the training about Pennzoil products for Mopar. BG did not like me questioning the quality of the MOA additive for motor oil because of what I learned about Pennzoil and why SRT switched from Mobil One to Pennzoil Platinum....lol. I highly recommend the BG MOA additive for people who want to use Conventional motor oils or Semi-Synthetic motor oils. Adding the MOA to something like Pennzoil Platinum is a waste of money as the additive does not enhance anything and the BG specialist did not want to tell me this on record...lol
If your skeptical about BG products, I would recommend them over any other additives on the market except the MOA if you use a high quality synthetic motor oil. The BG MOA additive is basically adding high quality synthetic motor oil additives to your conventional or semi-synthetic oils.