You do flush the engine the proper way. A lot of people add the flush to the old oil, it works, but is not optimal and also a bit of a waste, in my opinion. This happens also in the dealers, when there's a flush at all. Still, in general very similar to the way I am doing: 1) Drop the old oil 2) Remove the old oil filter 3) add a cheap oil filter 4) add *half* (2,5L) of cheap oil (the engine runs fine with half of it, in low revs) 5) add the flush and let the engine run for 10 mins 6) drop the cheap oil 7) add the remaining half of cheap oil and let it run for another 10 min 8) drop the remaining cheap oil 9) remove the cheap filter 10) add the quality/good filter 11) add ceratec and the *good* oil to the spec level. Quite happy with the results.
I see you posted this a few months ago but I would like to do the same procedure however it is for my 2003 330i, which takes a decently higher amount of oil (around 6.25 to 6.5L). Would it be safe to fill the car up to around 3.5L or 4qt of oil and dump the whole bottle of flush in, idle for a little bit and then change the oil again? I am definitely just trying to air on the side of caution haha. I appreciate it!
Don't EVER run and S54 with HALF oil! Lifters are mechanical. VANOS uses oil. Main pump has dual pickups. Do you really want to risk a $10,000 (hard-to-find) engine replacement to save $15 on oil? Really Bad Advice, dude.
I ran the engine flush followed with fresh mobile 1 and ceratec in my 13yr old 143k mile GMC Sierra. You can’t even hear the engine running. It’s an amazing difference.
Used the flush on my son's Mitsubishi outlander as it was burning so much oil. He was using a litre of oil every two weeks. Flushed it, replaced the oil then had to change the oil again two weeks later as the new oil went black quickly also. Now he is hardly using any oil at all. The Mitsubishi has just over 200,000 kms on it. Very happy with Liquid Moly products.
That’s awesome!!! I’m glad to hear you’re seeing results. Thanks for watching!!! I agree, I’m very happy with Liqui Moly. Their oil eliminated any oil consumption on my M3.
Thanks for watching! I’m filming a leak down test on the e30 and I’ve thought about using sea foam down the spark plug holes then redoing the leak down to measure the results. I sense I have something happening at the rings. I’ll find out soon. Thanks for commenting. I appreciate it. -Tom
Berryman B-12 .24hr piston Soak. turn crank by hand 5-6× every 6hrs, & then oil consumption Will be Much Better. I'm getting ready to do my audi this week... good luck w everything.
I was going to do this flush but when I did my oil pan gasket it was very clean inside. I do oil changes with Analysis every 4,000 miles with that lubro molly 10w60. I think early oil changes are the key to keeping the inside of the engine clean.
Hey! Thanks for watching. I count agree more. I just rolled past 3,000 miles on the last oil change. I’ll be sending the oil out to speediagnostix and I’m hopeful that I’ll have an oil analysis video soon. This will be my 3rd analysis so it should be good days. Thanks again!!
Over 5k mile intervals arent bad but the engine wlll develop more sludge over time, especially if over 7k. So dont follow the maintenance light recommendations if u can
I use the LiquiMoly Engine Flush in my diesel Jeep every two oil changes. I go for a good long drive, get the oil nice and hot, add the LM flush , idle for 20 minutes, drain the engine oil. Fill with cheap 0W30 oil, drive around the block a few times, drain the cheap oil, and fill with Redline or LiquiMoly full synthetic oil , and a new filter I add LM CeraTec every 5th oil change as well . (I do around 12 oil changes a year, as I drive a LOT of KM’s daily, Hwy, forest service roads, city, off road in temp extremes. Solid products!
Your video makes me want to have my own sports car to maintain. The family car is somewhat less satisfying to clean and service, lol On some of your shots, i noticed your hands shaking. Mine did too after covid. On my vacation to Brazil, my father in law got me some albendazole (similar to ivermectin) & all my strength came back, balance returned & hands stopped shaking. Try to get your hands on some if you can & you might be surprised 😊
Ahh! Thank you! I really appreciate your comment!! Yeah, that’s low blood sugar. I had a similar issue recently when replacing the rod bearings on the M3. My friend was asking about my hands. Good eye!! Thanks for watching!!
you changed engine oil with flush better than a mechanic, very nicely explained and in future i also make sure to do the same in future. Thank you. with love from DUBAI.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your kind words. It means a lot. I’m trying to learn as much as I can. There are experienced techs who are willing to share their knowledge if were willing to listen. I’ll have more maintenance videos posted soon. Thanks again!
Maybe do the flush again in 5,000 miles...and see if the new oil comes out black again...perhaps it will just be medium golden...and keep getting cleaner?
So hear me out for those that are still on the fence. I drive a 2006 H3 Hummer. Bought it in 2014, 67+ thousand miles to start when I purchased her. 2024, now 269+ thousand miles. I've had issues but nothing major. The rear seal was replaced as well as the front seal where the harmonic balancer is. I started having lifter noise on start up to rattling noise. They told me I need a new timing chain. Went to get that replaced and they said it was not worth it because of slug everywhere. Mind you I did oil changes but I'll be honest. It wasn't always on time! But look at the miles and condition of the vehicle. I took care of her. Plus I don't know what the person before me did before I got her. I know I was able to get almost 300+ thousand miles out of her. Nevertheless I saved for a new engine. Which was not as much as I assumed. Less than 3000 dollars. Anyways she started acting like she wanted to cut off and I was like damn she's done now. So I bought a second vehicle trying to save the hummer. I randomly watched a video on liquid moly and other oils like royal purple. And I stumbled on engine flush. I said before I replace my engine let me try this first. Oh I almost forgot the check engine light was on. Code basically said my engine was toast. OK back to the story. I put the engine flush in and right away less than 1min the check engine light went off and the engine Immediately ran like It use to. I was mind-blown 😮. I let it idle for 30 minutes instead of 10 to 15mins. My next oil change I will do another liquid moly flush to make sure I get the rest of whatever is left over. Now I officially have She-Hulk back and I can drive my new vehicle less. It works and I would tell anyone if you get a new aka used vehicle that was previously owned. Do a liquid moly engine flush to be on the safe side! This stuff works 💪🏿. I wanted to do the BG engine flush kit but too expensive for the flush and rinse and two additives. It's close to 300.00 on Amazon. So if you don't have the funds for BG. 15 bucks liquid moly will do the do as well. Nevertheless LIQUID MOLY WORKS 💪🏿
Dope! That's awesome to hear. I am excited for you, and I am sure that alleviated a substantial amount of stress. I really like LiquiMoly products, and their oil has been nothing but fantastic in my M3. No oil consumption since using it. I appreciate your reply. It was great to read, and I am glad you don't need to spend $3k for an engine. Hopefully you can put that into something else more fun. Keep me up to date on the H3 is running. Exciting news! - Tom
@thedriversapex 278 thousand miles and I drive her every day now. Well after this weekend I will drive her on the weekends. I just got the new car ac fixed. So I'll be driving the new car for work. And my H3 for weekends and sometimes doing ride share. Yes I do lyft in the H3. No more ticking on start up. And I use royal purple 5w30 oil.
Nice! Was chatting with an owner of an i8 who’s using Castrol and told him to convert as he’ll use less oil. Best decision I’ve made. Thanks for watching!?!
Definitely using liqui moly antifrtiction is the way to go especially for German cars. I'm actually going to use Lucas heavy duty Oil stabilizer. Does same thing as the liqui moly antifriction in my book. Heard it works well. And helps slow down oil consumption in Audi A4s
I use Lucas oil stabilizer on my Cat 3208 diesel generator engine. We had a major engine failure and the Lucas saved our engine. We were able to repair the issue and engine ran like new. Another heavy machine mechanic told us the Lucas saved our engine.
@@eliasbutcher859 the 2.0 liter engines were horribly designed and haven’t been improved upon the 2016 Audi a6 with v6 or with the tdi engines are a much better choice. I don’t like a BMW for the sole reason for the the horrific amount of plastic parts in those engines. Plastic doesn’t hold up to constant hot and cold cycles. Until BMW makes a near full metal engine. Only German car I’ll ever claim loyalty to is Volkswagen….
Lucas motor oil stabilizer should only be used if you're trying to buy time on the car. It comes out like honey. There are many reports that it does not blend with oil well and can cause massive problems with newer engines that run tight tolerances on their oil passages and are expecting a specified oil weight. That being said, I had a 1995 Mazda Millenia with 220k miles and that thing should have gone to a junkyard. Lucas oil stabilizer and transmission stop slip gave me another 2 years out of that car. Great product if it's on its last limb. Do not use it if your motor is relatively healthy and you need to change an oil pan gasket or a valve cover gasket, just change the damn gaskets.
If you gotta use any flush or any additives to your engines oil 1 you been using the wrong oil 2 you are not changing your engines on time. Also keep in mind additives can change your oils profile and make it corrosive meaning you’re gonna wear your engine a lot quicker
Hey! I agree and thanks for commenting. I bought this car from a gentleman that rarely drove the car. The issue was the inside of the valve cover was varnished in that the look of burned oil. My friend is a BMW tech and suggested that I flush the oil. I have no plans to use an engine flush again on this engine. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it! -Tom
I did the same with my E30 and my Z4 E85. I check the camshaft in my E30 before replacing it and you can see the difference after the flushing, much cleaner inside the Engine. For the E30 i use Liqui Moli 10w40 mos2 and the Z4 is from 2007 and i use 5w40 with Mos2 in the past. but i think i use Ceratec for the next time. Mos2 is better for really old cars claims Liqui Moly an Ceratec for newer Engines, i would use also Ceratec in the E46.
Thanks for watching! So glad you have an e30. They're such cool car and are so much fun to drive. I definitely believe these additives are important for our engines. I send my oil to Speeddiagnostix for an oil analysis every 3k miles and thankfully I'm not showing any wear. I will continue using these additives to ensure healthy running engines. Thanks again! - Tom
when you add the addetive shake the bottle because i am told that some of the addetive falls to the bottom of the can and can be left behind. add new oil to the addetive can then shake and pour it in the engine. addetiv is alot more expensive then the oil 😊
I totally disagree. If you're going to do two flushes, then just be ready to change both filters AND OIL because you don't want the dirty filter in place to start when you add the MOLY. Because the filter on the car is already dirty, then you're going to plug it up with the first flush even more !! You want clean filters to filter out the sludge along with what you're going to dump into the pan anyway ! You don't want to overwhelm the filter with more sludge because of the Moly flush.
After running the engine flush and draining it, should have added new oil ran it at idle for 20 minutes and drained it again to see how the oil looked after the engine was flushed. Yeah it’s a lot of wasted oil but would know if it actually did do anything
Curious why you're losing SO much oil. Must be some leaks somewhere, so you should be using 1.) Liqui Moly Oil Saver, Motor Oil Saver simply rejuvenates hardened rubber seals in your engine that are causing oil leaks. It does this by swelling your seals back to the size and shape they were before they hardened. AND 2.) Liqui Moly Viscoplus for Oil, Viscoplus optimizes oil consumption in older engines. This should be used as a "top-up" product when your engine oil level is slightly low. There are great videos out there on both. Would love to see another video to see how it goes.
Hey! Thanks for watching. No oil consumption. The Castrol oil that I was originally using was horrible. Definitely consuming oil. Now that I’m using Liqui Moly, no oil consumption, thank goodness. I’ll have a new video soon because the rod bearings were done and I’m going to send the oil out to be analyzed after 3,500 miles. 500 miles for a “break in” and 3,000 miles for normal driving. Thanks again!!!
To be honest the 10k service interval will eventually lead to oil consumption. The liqui moly engine flush is all just oil detergent. It does work on getting the little bit of sludge out of your engine. But with that car I’d run amsoil.
Hey. Noah! Thanks for watching. I agree about the 10k service. Curious about the Amsoul. Are you running Amsoil? Any oils that you ran before switching? I’ve been much happier with Liqui Moly over the Castrol. No more oil consumption. I’m doing an oil change (oil changes every 3k miles) this week and sending out the oil to speediagnostix for a 4th analysis. I’ll curious to see the results. So far they’ve come back clean. I always panic when I get the email with the results, lol. Thanks for watching and I appreciate your comments!! -Tom
@@thedriversapex I run amsoil and in a pinch I’ll run Mobil 1. But the Liqui Moly is not any worse or better than the Mobil 1. I typically run 5 k intervals on changes. There was a write up on around 2005 all the manufacturers. Went with low compression piston rings due to less friction and better mpg. As a result of that and with all the oil and car manufacturers touting 10k oil changes. There is sludge accumulated on the oil ring and results on oil bypassing the dirty ring into the combustion chamber. This is what results in the loss of oil. It’s the detergents that degrade trying to get to 10k.
@@noahkraft6453 awesome info! Thank you. We’re on similar oil change schedules and I think that’s important for these engines as well as allowing the car to reach a proper oil temp before driving hard.
@@thedriversapex Bruh, amsoil is the only reason no oil manufacture can claim they make the best. Amsoil has taken i think just about every manfacture to court when they try it. Your wasting your time trying oils, no manufacture has ever been able to produce an oil that is superior to amsoil sig series. It's the reason they sell so much without a single tv commerical or building. I've tried every oil, none of them get me the smoothness and cleaness of the ams sig series stuff. Tranny fluid is even crazier. I think they came back with 0 wear after 500k miles
Be interesting to know how Ceratec works in a 2ZZ GE Toyota engine with MMC bores and VVT Li. Searched everywhere and nobody seems to have any info. Even Liqui Moly haven't replied to numerous emails asking about it. May avoid. Great video.
That’s interesting! I’d be curious what Lake Speed Jr. thinks. Here’s his RUclips youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek?si=dFb3Unj1jikjDpp3 He’s helped answer a lot of my questions. I send him my oil to be analyzed (speediagnostix). Thanks for watching!!
Never used any flushes or modifiers of any kind. Synthetic oil ( Mobil 1 ) changes ever 5,000 miles and that's it. My current vehicle has over 230k miles and still runs like new.
That’s awesome!! Funny story, I had an ‘04 Civic that had synthetic oil from the day I bought it and no engine flushes, etc. At the 200k mile mark, I let the oil change interval go too far and randomly checked the oil. The dipstick was bone dry?? No check engine lights and the car ran fine. No oil leaks, etc. not sure what happened, but that car was tough. My CR-V is on its way to 260k with conventional oil and no additives. Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for watching! I really appreciate it. I’ve noted that I no longer consume oil since transitioning to LiquiMoly. I used to consume a half quart using Castrol. Now, those days are behind me, and I drive my M3 really hard.
Hey! Thanks for watching. I did since this video. I’m actually replacing my rod bearings next week for peace of mind. I’ll continue to use ceratec. Thanks again for watching!
I’ve used Ceratec on my e92 M3 and my wife’s LR4 but haven’t tried the MoS2 treatment at this point. Not sure if the Ceratec did anything but the oil reports always come back quite good I’m giving the engine flush a try on the LR4 this weekend for its oil service Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching! Those are two awesome cars! My wife has always wanted an LR4. I think they’re so cool. Of course an e92 M3 is epic!!!! My shop’s Liqui Moly rep told him to have me use MoS2. I thought I was supposed to use ceratec. It appears ceratec is for newer engines like the e92 l, etc. Thanks again!
Sweet! I’m due for an oil change. I’m also sending out the oil again to speediagnostix. I’ll be posting a video soon talking about the first three oil samples. I’ll definitely try the molygen. Thanks for watching!!
I'm mixed I don't care if folks use flushes, but I don't think they are very effective personally. The biggest argument I see folks make in favor of flushes is the oils color, the darker the better but what if color and dirty are not the same? I'm of the mindset flushes create deposits, heat is the biggest contributor to turning oil dark. The job of oil filters is to clean the oil, they are effective, dirt/carbon/sludge shouldn't ever be in the oil. Most oil filters are 99% at 20 microns, and 85% at 10 microns. That is insanely fine filtration, the only purpose of the filter is to trap dirt. With heat being the largest factor to oil color there is a few things which can cause oil to darken quickly. Primarily fuel, and alcohols, which flushes primarily are. The high solvent content lowers the flash point of motor oil allowing it to darken/burn quickly. I genuinely believe flushes simply cause the oil to darken/burn inside the motor creating deposits as it bakes during the 15 mins. Oil darkens with OCI length due to time exposed to heat, I don't think color has much to do with sludge/carbon thanks to the oil filter.
Thanks for the video. Next time please skip the parts jacking up the car......a lot of RUclips videos have a lot of fluff. You presented a lot of good information
Thanks, brother! Yeah, that was filmed quite a while ago. Now it helps when editing not to add those scenes and it saves me time. Thanks again!!! - Tom
Hi There, I'm about to use this in my Passat B7, 32k kms, so find it very interesting. However, concerning Liqui Moly, I can stand by it even with the fact that I work for BP (Castrol) in EU, having used Liqui Moly in a bunch of my cars. A lot of friction tests proved that Liqui Moly has a better and stronger oil film to develop on metal surfaces and withstand higher temps and use. Just a note, during your next oil change add Moligen (additive, not the oil) to your engine (instead of MoS2). It lasts 50k kms (with oil changes carried on during this period in normal intervals) and drops friction significantly. Saw a video couple of days ago, that measured Castrol oil without it having 0.29mm2 metal wearing during the test and 0.02mm2 when added Moligen additive to the same oil. ;) You can alternate it with MoS2 but don't use both at the same time. 1l oil in E46 M3 each 2k kms is normal, just a factory "not-so-tight" fitting of piston-rings. :)
Wow! Great information. I noticed a substantial difference moving to Liqui Moly from Castrol. I’ll definitely look into Moligen, thank you! Just received my oil analysis back from speediagnostix and the rod bearings are in good shape. I don’t seem to use any oil with liqui moly and hard driving,🤞. Thanks for watching and thanks for your detailed comment. I really appreciate it! -Tom
1. Try not to mix oils from different manufacturers even if, at first glance, they have the same specifications. If you read the technical sheets of the oils, you will see that there are differences between them, even if they are, for example, 10W-60. 2. Try to put the cleaning liquid while the engine is idling. It will mix by itself. 3. Try to put MoS2 alternately with the new oil, oil-MoS2-oil-Mos2-etc. You can put a little more clean oil in the container of Mos2, put the lid back on and shake the container to use all the additive. 4. I think CERATEC is better than MoS2, but it is more a matter of personal choice. 5. It is preferable to use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Don't change the oil specifications because that's what you heard from others. At most, you can switch to an oil with a higher consistency if the engine is very old.
Thanks for watching. That’s good info. I appreciate it. I added ceratec to the last oil change. I’ll be sending out the oil again soon to be evaluated.
American fuel is full of carbon. The E30 from Brazil makes 36% less carbon than your E15. Thats why you get deposits and constant need for flushes. Crap environmental unfriendly fuel of yours. And some consevatives still wanting E0 is insane
Great video. I agree with everything being said. However strongly disagree with oil grade. I’ve recently switched over to 5w50. I would never look back to 10w60
Hey, Leo! Thanks for watching. This is good to know. I’m here to learn. I’m curious for the switch. I’m only using 10w-60 because that seemed to be what I was using. Any recommendations would be great appreciated. Thanks again!!
@@thedriversapex I have spent countless hours on research on correct oils for engines specs, dimensions etc. I have spoke with many engine builders. Some of them well known in the BMW world. And they recommend 5w50 as well. Once I switched over to 5w50. Engine seems to warm up quicker. Engine runs more cool. Temperatures aren’t as high. The viscosity doesn’t degrade as fast. Engine seems more responsive. Revs way quicker. Etc. All benifits.
@@thedriversapex buy your oil from BMW. They change the specs of their oil yearly to be optimized for each vehicle. 5w30/50 synthetic is what they sell for e46 m3
How do you know it was the Moly and not just the oil? You should have ran the engine, pulled a sample of the fresh oil, then added the Moly and repeated. No control group eh? Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush. So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil? Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk? Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case. Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive. Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change
Hey, Chris! Thanks for watching and thanks for your comments. Comments are everything on my channel and I do my best to reply asap. You bring up great questions. I send my oil out to Speediagnostix every 3k miles and my oil as such is typically very clean when doing an oil change. I do this to make sure that my rod bearings are not exposed to more gunk than necessary. A BMW tech told me to flush the oil with LiquiMoly, which I did, and I did so with clean oil. I should have mentioned this before, but the oil came out thicker and substantially smellier after the flush. I was a bit alarmed and it made sense after doing a valve adjustment. The BMW tech and I could tell that the engine wasn't getting oil changes as soon as it should have. While I am not a certified tech, but rather a curious automotive youtuber, I felt that given my prior (anecdotal) oil changes helped me to determine that the LiquiMoly engine flush worked. I agree, a control would have been much helpful and I will do that for the next flush. I should have shown what the oil looked looked like coming out of the engine after 3k miles. I'll follow up with Lake Speed Jr. at Speediagnostix to gain his thoughts on how to properly determine if an engine flush is working. He is super helpful and has spent time chatting with me to learn more about oil. Like you said, a well maintained engine shouldn't need an oil engine flush and now that I am own the car (1 yr) the car is getting the much deserved maintenance it needs. I really appreciate your comments and it helps to drive deeper conversations on my channel. Thanks again! -Tom
Hey! Thanks for watching. Switching from Castrol was the best thing I could have done. This is good information. Also, I cannot wait to convert mine to a 6 speed. Next is reinforcing the rear floor and then I will convert after that; I hope! Thanks again! - Tom
Thanks for watching! I’ve really notice a difference switching to liqui moly. Side note, I really want to buy a liqui moly baseball cap, but they’re impossible to find. Thanks again for watching. Also, cool car!!! Those are awesome.
Thanks for the video. Curious to why you went full jack stands and not just drive up on ramps? Seemed like more work but is this for max oil removal from engine angle?
Thanks for watching!! Sorry for the later reply. I don’t have ramps though they’d be nice to have. I like to level the car out and if necessary, tilt the car forward while letting it sit for awhile. While the car is up in the air I can take a look at everything under the car. Thanks for watching!!
i'd like to see moly and clean oil mixed OUTSIDE of an engine. because you have no idea what it looks like when it's mixed (and heated) outside of your engine. we can't assume the dark stuff is purely stuff from the engine, you know what i mean? would make it a tad more scientific.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it. You're right. This video has collected more comments than I ever imagined. I think this is a great idea and would make for an interesting video. Thanks again and look for your suggestion to hit the channel soon.
@@dimmacommunication that’s awesome!!! Definitely good to know. I’ll most likely do another flush a year from when I originally did the flush. I’m putting about 6k miles a year on the car so they’re won’t be too many miles since the last flush.
@@thedriversapex If you want honest advice I did a flush cause my car has 130k miles and it' s a diesel with the EGR ( not deactivated ), no need to do it yearly basis, expecially on a gas engine.
there s a reason why the manufacturer said add it to the old oil, because that old oil lost its vescosity caracterestics, and because it is all aboit chemestry we cant do something and think it is better
Hey! Thanks for watching! I absolutely agree. When I first purchased the car, I noted the inside of the valve cover was a nice shade of old and burned oil. My local BMW tech friend suggested an oil flush. I now change the oil every 3,000 miles and sent the oil out for an analysis until I replaced the rod bearings. Thanks again for watching!
I do the same but synthetic oils still leave deposits. Simply slower than conventional. Did a flush today, running valvoline restore and protect with the Mos2 and the car runs dramatically smoother
Right! That’s what I thought. I’m scheduled for another oil change when I return to the states. I’m changing oil at 3k intervals. I’ll be sending the oil out again to speediagnostix for analysis, which will be the third sample. I’ll be posting a video soon talking about blackstone vs. speediagnostix as well as the results. Thanks for watching!!
So sir if i am right you take out the old oil then you out a cheap one inside with the liquimoly and then wait to take this out with the garbage together to out the new one inside right ? do you work the engine while you have the wrong ''w'' oil inside ?
Hey, thanks for watching! Yes, I run the engine with the 10-40 or 10-50. It won't hurt anything. The 10-40 is quicker to come to temperature than the 10-60. Because one would perform an engine flush only once in awhile, there is no problem with using 10-40. Thanks again for watching.
I keep seeing mixed instructions. One set of folks says to add the LM engine flush right away and use the "cheap" oil as flushing out the additive as well, then the final oil change The second set says do what you did. Confused about what is appropriate and why?
LMK make some calls. I still need to get with Lake Speed Jr. as well. This video, as you’ve mentioned, has stirred up a lot of comments. I do know this, I consulted a friend, and certified BMW tech who advised me to flush the oil as I did within this video. You’re right, this is confusing, but I’d like to get to the bottom of it, and offer clarity to everyone. I do appreciate every comments. -Tom
@@thedriversapex Hey, I appreciate the response! I feel like Liqui Moly (for environmental) reasons can't say use an extra oil change. I reached out to LM technical, and maybe they get back to me. Thanks for the response, looking fwd to what you find out even though I might do the flush this weekend.
@@thedriversapexI’ve messaged Liqui Moly as well but I found this online. “I emailed Liqui Moly and asked them if you need to do a second oil change after the flush and they said you don't need to. They basically said that the engine flush is just highly concentrated version of the additives that are in their normal oil and that by draining the oil with the flush in it, you remove enough of it that you don't need to change it twice. It will just mix with your new oil. These companies have already considered these things. So in case anyone is wondering- this is a waste of time and money”
@@djolecar88 Thanks for this additional info. Just to be clear, is the recommendation at the end of the day to simply add the engine flush to "old" oil (after 5k miles of use), drain it, and refill with new 10w60 + Ceratec? Also, do you happen to know how many cans of engine flush for the E46 M3? It says 1 can per 5 liters, and I believe oil capacity is 6-6.5 liters. FCP Euro gave me a 2nd can in the kit, not sure if I should just use part of it or the whole thing... Thanks for any info
Were there symptoms that influenced your decision to flush? What were you trying to solve? Burning a quart every 2k miles is within BMS spec, but is alot higher than my 130,000 mile S54; which requires no additional oil between 5k mile oil changes. I'm curious to know if you experienced any increase in oil consumption after the flush. Removal of sludge could be (not necessarily) a bad thing, for a variety of reasons. I am personally hesitant to put flush in my S54. You know the old saying "First, do no harm."
Hey! Sorry for the delay!! I bought the car and I didn’t know too much about its maintenance history other than the rod bearings were replaced under the recall. A BMW tech told me to run the flush so that’s what I did. I did not notice any changes but changing oil helped. I don’t use any oil, thank goodness. Thanks for your comments!! I appreciate it.
No car should burn a quart of oil every 2k unless it was mistreated not serviced properly especially a BMW that's just BMW covering themselves. I have 2007 Skoda Octavia have 185,000 miles on the clock Id say it burns less than a cupful of oil every 5 to 7000 miles... But I look after it...
I bet you if you do this again, but don't add engine flush, you will get the very same result. Your "cheap" oil mixes with whatever oil is left in the engine, and gets dark immediately.
That’s an interesting observation. You’re probably right. I just finished a valve adjustment and the valve cover showed evidence of very dirty oil before my ownership. I’m definitely bringing this car back to one with a strong maintenance history. Thanks for watching!
I recently used Liqui moly engine flush on my 2018 mk7.5 golf gtd (2.0 Tdi) and even after 500 miles my oil is still golden colour. Usually after an oil change the oil turned black after 10-15 miles. This is on a 29k miles engine. I would highly recommend it👍
It does clean it, but to a reasonable degree, if you want a perfectly clean engine, youd have to take everything apart and clean with brake cleaner and reassemble some parts with new…
Hey! Thanks for watching. I am as many e46 M3 owners have switched to Liqui Moly, Redline, etc. Good question. I can tell you this, all oil consumption disappeared when switching to Liqui Moly. I will say though that my oil temperatures are a bit higher. Let’s see if anyone chimes in. There are so many debates out there 😳 Also, LMK if you have any questions.
I don't know engineer but I am very mechanically inclined and please forgive me I don't mean to be rude whatsoever but I'm just curious why would you ever put at 10w 60 in play I think there's a lot of an engine like this
Hey! Sorry for the super late reply and I’m sure others can chime in. I run this oil because that’s what BMW says to use. I’m too scared to run anything else on an expensive engine. I don’t mind driving with lower revs until the oil has warmed up. There are lots of debates and conversations around why BMW says to use 10w60. I agree with you, why? The answer is, I’m honestly sure because I too am not an engineer. Thanks for chiming in!! I appreciate it.
Hey, thanks for watching! You're right. It's been some time and I can't remember if I shook the bottle. I do shake the bottles because of what you mentioned. Thanks again for watching. I appreciate it.
You can drive for 20 minutes or let it idle for 20 minutes. Liqui Moly says to let it idle and it’s tricky as a RUclipsr to go against the directions. Thanks for watching. I truly appreciate your comments!! -Tom
Very stupid to use snake oil flushing. You destroy the crankshaft bearings when the oil becomes too thin. Change the oil two or three times with 200 km between each and the engine will be like new inside.
After how many miles of driving a car do you think is a good idea to use this product? I have a 40K mile Corolla that i drive mainly in the city. Is it a good idea to do this flush with Liqui moly?
Good question. I’m not a mechanic, but I’d say that city driving is hardest on an engine. If you’ve never done a flush then it could be a good idea especially with the lower mileage.
yes, because in the city the engine is heavily used, a cleaning with this additive is welcome. Look in the technical book of the car and see at what interval the manufacturer says that it is necessary to change the oil. If the car is mainly used in urban areas, it is preferable to change the oil even earlier than specified. All in all, it is more important to have a clean oil than to use a cleaning additive. So the order is: 1. change oil at specified intervals (or earlier) 2. use a cleaning additive with each change 3. use a maintenance additive (according to the manufacturer's instructions but not more than is specified)
I want to try this on my 2008 Acura TL type s so for the anti friction I know there’s a price difference but Is the ceretec nester to use than the other anti friction one you showed? Thanks for the input
I'd like to think so. While my engine was low mileage, at least for a 20-year-old car, it was evident that oil change intervals were not closely followed. My BMW tech friend could tell by the smell of the oil and the coating leftover within the valve cover. As a whole, I believe the product worked. Like many have indicated, and if I could go back in time, I would have made this more scientific. I think I will revisit this idea soon. Thanks for watching! -Tom
That’s a great question. I don’t think it matters because the engine must be warm regardless of the ambient temp. Let’s see what others think. Thanks for watching!
You are so right! Lifting my e30 is super easy. Lifting the M3, not so easy. This is good confirmation that I need to invest in some ramps to make life easier. Thanks for commenting!! I appreciate it. - Tom
Hello! Thanks for watching. Great question. To my knowledge, it should not dry out the seals. This flush is not a flush with lots of heavy chemicals. Here is LiquiMoly's website and it indicates that it does not dry out seals. www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/pro-line-engine-flush-p000065.html#2037 Hope this helps. Thanks again! - Tom
Did the exhaust smell oily before? How did the exhaust smell after? I am just about to test this product this week. My engine is in a bad way. It uses around 1 litre of oil per 250km. So if it improves my engines performance, it will help most.
Hey! Thanks for watching. No oily smells. Sounds like your rings might me the culprit and oil is passing by. I’d say a liter per 250km is worrisome. It sounds like you might need a rebuild. I hope not, and hope it’s something simple, fingers crossed.
@@greghayes9118 if that old Benz has one of the M104 family inline-6, those are known to leak oil via the head gasket (usually at the back of the block). might be worth a quick look.
@@motorwolfe The Liqui Moly didn't do anything for the 3.2Ltr Alloy V6. The new mechanic I have found even said he would not take on the job of putting new valve guide seals in it, as he recently did the same job on E240 - small V6, and said it didn't fix the problem. He said it is possible the problem could be a, or several loose valve guides with oil passing through. The upside is I may have actually found an honest mechanic. Or was it that I told him that I have mechanical training from the army?
@@greghayes9118 wow, bad valve seals on an M112? that motor must have lived a hard life. is it burning any visible oil in the exhaust, and have you pulled the plugs and/or looked in the cylinders with a boroscope for signs of oil consumption? maybe a compression test? M112/M113s will always weep oil at the rear main seal (including mine), but that's not enough to account for the rate of consumption you specified. FYI, valve seals can be changed without removing the heads. not a fun job but not too awful if you have the tools.
Good question. I’m curious what others would say. Is the engine burning oil? It’s tricky, I’d say if the car is running well then maybe not. I worry that the flush could dislodge something, which is sealing the engine. I’ve heard stories of people using a flush on a high mileage engine and then they started experiencing oil consumption. I’d ask around first. LMK what you end up doing. Thanks for watching!!
@@thedriversapex i decided not to do the flush because of what u mentioned... i cant risk it but im taking care of her and changing oil every 7k km or 4k miles ... and shes running good except a little sluggish and some black smoke
The bottle, if I remember correctly, indicates to shake. Many of the key ingredients settle to the bottom of the bottle, so hand shaking is ideal. Thanks for watching.
You're a BMW enthusiast I'm sure you know why all the M V10 cars failed and had bearing issues and lubrication issues excetera it's because that oil is extremely too thick it's way too thick for these type of engines. Regardless of brand new or not. The motor needs lubrication that oil is so thick fails to reach the area's it needs 25w forty at most is what the car should be running whether it's summer or winter. That oil is way too thick! Even if you lived in Florida or Arizona where it's always hot it's still too thick
Thanks for watching! I’m really learning that oil temps are everything. As you mentioned, the oil is so thick. I tell everyone, 210, is one’s friend. I don’t rev past 2,500 until I’m in the 180F range. The car makes plenty of power to keep up with traffic at that low rpm. I send the oil to speediagnostix every 3k miles to collect data on the bearings, etc. I think that’s the second most important thing for these engines, frequent oil changes. Thanks for your comments!! I really appreciate it!! -Tom
Hey! Thanks for watching and for your comment. I really appreciate it. I have a BMW master tech who is mentoring me and he advised at the time of filming that it does not matter. The viscosity is not an issue for this short of time. Though, the LiquiMoly oil isn't that expensive so after I drain the oil I will at times run a quart through until it comes out the oil pan. Thanks again!!!
Awesome! I have used sea foam and it worked well, too. I have also used through the intake system via the vacuum hose off the intake on my e30. It's a smoky show afterwards, but I believe it helps to clear up deposits. I might actually try it again soon. Thanks for watching! - Tom
I bet if you´d skip the flush liquid the flush oil would have been equally as dirty.... But if you´d drive around for a week with the flush liquid inside together with the flush oil you´d be suprised, i promise!
But according to liqui moly flush are you only supposed to use it on idle speed for 10 to 15 mins and NOT to drive the car, the additive dilutes the oil....
I have no idea. TBH, I did not know what Ravenol was until I just looked it up. Looks like really good oil. I will have to research this because now I am curious. Thanks for watching and thanks for the recommendation! - Tom
@@thedriversapex I'm currently driving a 1.9 Audi A4 Avant 😆. It's a workhorse rally but nice and comfy. Out of all my cars Ive had I miss the volvo engine BMW driving and Audi's comfort. Have a good day from the UK
@@zachdailyfost4433 my question is more of preventative measures or prolonging the life span of seals. Some seals are pain go replace such as valve stem seals or rear main seals. Pain in terms of cost and to it at home, you need the tools and alot of time to do it.
You do flush the engine the proper way. A lot of people add the flush to the old oil, it works, but is not optimal and also a bit of a waste, in my opinion. This happens also in the dealers, when there's a flush at all. Still, in general very similar to the way I am doing:
1) Drop the old oil
2) Remove the old oil filter
3) add a cheap oil filter
4) add *half* (2,5L) of cheap oil (the engine runs fine with half of it, in low revs)
5) add the flush and let the engine run for 10 mins
6) drop the cheap oil
7) add the remaining half of cheap oil and let it run for another 10 min
8) drop the remaining cheap oil
9) remove the cheap filter
10) add the quality/good filter
11) add ceratec and the *good* oil to the spec level.
Quite happy with the results.
I did it involuntarely with new oil as I added a thickener that I wanted to remove.
Worked flawlessly
I see you posted this a few months ago but I would like to do the same procedure however it is for my 2003 330i, which takes a decently higher amount of oil (around 6.25 to 6.5L). Would it be safe to fill the car up to around 3.5L or 4qt of oil and dump the whole bottle of flush in, idle for a little bit and then change the oil again? I am definitely just trying to air on the side of caution haha. I appreciate it!
@@zoomiesRMS BMW let 0.5 lt low oil is still safe for start. Your lifters are hydraulic. Just obey BMW rules ///
Don't EVER run and S54 with HALF oil! Lifters are mechanical. VANOS uses oil. Main pump has dual pickups. Do you really want to risk a $10,000 (hard-to-find) engine replacement to save $15 on oil? Really Bad Advice, dude.
BS follow the label directions.
It clearly states “add it to the engine oil at operating temperature BEFORE changing the oil.
I ran the engine flush followed with fresh mobile 1 and ceratec in my 13yr old 143k mile GMC Sierra. You can’t even hear the engine running. It’s an amazing difference.
That’s awesome!!!! Thanks for sharing.
Bro no lies told. I almost spend 3000 for another engine for my H3. Save by Liquid moly flush. Runs like new.
@@Quis85need Ceratec afterwards too
@larryc1616 I didn't use that but my next oil change I am going to do it again. And I'll use that as well.
At 7 minutes I thought "dude you unscrewed it enough then you pulled it off "awesome
Used the flush on my son's Mitsubishi outlander as it was burning so much oil. He was using a litre of oil every two weeks.
Flushed it, replaced the oil then had to change the oil again two weeks later as the new oil went black quickly also.
Now he is hardly using any oil at all.
The Mitsubishi has just over 200,000 kms on it.
Very happy with Liquid Moly products.
That’s awesome!!! I’m glad to hear you’re seeing results. Thanks for watching!!! I agree, I’m very happy with Liqui Moly. Their oil eliminated any oil consumption on my M3.
Seafoam down the spark plug holes. Soak, then change oil. This will loosen up the rings and prevent excessive oil consumption.
Thanks for watching! I’m filming a leak down test on the e30 and I’ve thought about using sea foam down the spark plug holes then redoing the leak down to measure the results. I sense I have something happening at the rings. I’ll find out soon. Thanks for commenting. I appreciate it. -Tom
Berryman B-12 .24hr piston Soak. turn crank by hand 5-6× every 6hrs, & then oil consumption Will be Much Better. I'm getting ready to do my audi this week... good luck w everything.
I was going to do this flush but when I did my oil pan gasket it was very clean inside. I do oil changes with Analysis every 4,000 miles with that lubro molly 10w60. I think early oil changes are the key to keeping the inside of the engine clean.
Hey! Thanks for watching. I count agree more. I just rolled past 3,000 miles on the last oil change. I’ll be sending the oil out to speediagnostix and I’m hopeful that I’ll have an oil analysis video soon. This will be my 3rd analysis so it should be good days. Thanks again!!
What is the different between Ceratec and mos2 ? Is it mos2 for old engine or what ? Which one is better ?
If you change your oil at about 5k miles for the rest of the cars life, using synthetic oil and good filters, your engine will last forever
Over 5k mile intervals arent bad but the engine wlll develop more sludge over time, especially if over 7k. So dont follow the maintenance light recommendations if u can
Additives explained: blog.fcpeuro.com/liqui-moly-additives-tested-tried-and-true
Finally someone who really knows how to use a engine flush 👍👍 good job man .
Thank you!!! Thanks for watching.
I use the LiquiMoly Engine Flush in my diesel Jeep every two oil changes. I go for a good long drive, get the oil nice and hot, add the LM flush , idle for 20 minutes, drain the engine oil. Fill with cheap 0W30 oil, drive around the block a few times, drain the cheap oil, and fill with Redline or LiquiMoly full synthetic oil , and a new filter
I add LM CeraTec every 5th oil change as well . (I do around 12 oil changes a year, as I drive a LOT of KM’s daily, Hwy, forest service roads, city, off road in temp extremes.
Solid products!
Your video makes me want to have my own sports car to maintain. The family car is somewhat less satisfying to clean and service, lol
On some of your shots, i noticed your hands shaking. Mine did too after covid. On my vacation to Brazil, my father in law got me some albendazole (similar to ivermectin) & all my strength came back, balance returned & hands stopped shaking. Try to get your hands on some if you can & you might be surprised 😊
Ahh! Thank you! I really appreciate your comment!! Yeah, that’s low blood sugar. I had a similar issue recently when replacing the rod bearings on the M3. My friend was asking about my hands. Good eye!! Thanks for watching!!
you changed engine oil with flush better than a mechanic, very nicely explained and in future i also make sure to do the same in future. Thank you. with love from DUBAI.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your kind words. It means a lot. I’m trying to learn as much as I can. There are experienced techs who are willing to share their knowledge if were willing to listen. I’ll have more maintenance videos posted soon. Thanks again!
Maybe do the flush again in 5,000 miles...and see if the new oil comes out black again...perhaps it will just be medium golden...and keep getting cleaner?
Looks like it got a lot of the gunk out. Please update us if there's any improvement in the drive or the fuel economy! Thanks!
So hear me out for those that are still on the fence. I drive a 2006 H3 Hummer. Bought it in 2014, 67+ thousand miles to start when I purchased her. 2024, now 269+ thousand miles. I've had issues but nothing major. The rear seal was replaced as well as the front seal where the harmonic balancer is. I started having lifter noise on start up to rattling noise. They told me I need a new timing chain. Went to get that replaced and they said it was not worth it because of slug everywhere. Mind you I did oil changes but I'll be honest. It wasn't always on time! But look at the miles and condition of the vehicle. I took care of her. Plus I don't know what the person before me did before I got her. I know I was able to get almost 300+ thousand miles out of her. Nevertheless I saved for a new engine. Which was not as much as I assumed. Less than 3000 dollars. Anyways she started acting like she wanted to cut off and I was like damn she's done now. So I bought a second vehicle trying to save the hummer. I randomly watched a video on liquid moly and other oils like royal purple. And I stumbled on engine flush. I said before I replace my engine let me try this first. Oh I almost forgot the check engine light was on. Code basically said my engine was toast. OK back to the story. I put the engine flush in and right away less than 1min the check engine light went off and the engine Immediately ran like It use to. I was mind-blown 😮. I let it idle for 30 minutes instead of 10 to 15mins. My next oil change I will do another liquid moly flush to make sure I get the rest of whatever is left over. Now I officially have She-Hulk back and I can drive my new vehicle less. It works and I would tell anyone if you get a new aka used vehicle that was previously owned. Do a liquid moly engine flush to be on the safe side! This stuff works 💪🏿. I wanted to do the BG engine flush kit but too expensive for the flush and rinse and two additives. It's close to 300.00 on Amazon. So if you don't have the funds for BG. 15 bucks liquid moly will do the do as well. Nevertheless LIQUID MOLY WORKS 💪🏿
Dope! That's awesome to hear. I am excited for you, and I am sure that alleviated a substantial amount of stress. I really like LiquiMoly products, and their oil has been nothing but fantastic in my M3. No oil consumption since using it. I appreciate your reply. It was great to read, and I am glad you don't need to spend $3k for an engine. Hopefully you can put that into something else more fun. Keep me up to date on the H3 is running. Exciting news! - Tom
@thedriversapex 278 thousand miles and I drive her every day now. Well after this weekend I will drive her on the weekends. I just got the new car ac fixed. So I'll be driving the new car for work. And my H3 for weekends and sometimes doing ride share. Yes I do lyft in the H3. No more ticking on start up. And I use royal purple 5w30 oil.
Nicely done! Those cans are brutal to open!
11:30 ahh, back when BMW used metal instead of plastic😊
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
MolyGen is all I use, for my performance daily car. Engine consumes way less oil, and definitely starts better in cold weather,
Nice! Was chatting with an owner of an i8 who’s using Castrol and told him to convert as he’ll use less oil. Best decision I’ve made. Thanks for watching!?!
Definitely using liqui moly antifrtiction is the way to go especially for German cars. I'm actually going to use Lucas heavy duty Oil stabilizer. Does same thing as the liqui moly antifriction in my book. Heard it works well. And helps slow down oil consumption in Audi A4s
Awesome! I’ll look into the Lucas product. Thanks for watching!!
I use Lucas oil stabilizer on my Cat 3208 diesel generator engine. We had a major engine failure and the Lucas saved our engine. We were able to repair the issue and engine ran like new. Another heavy machine mechanic told us the Lucas saved our engine.
I had an a4 and it was a nightmare with leaks and consumption. Got myself a 535i f10 and it doesn’t leak or burn!
@@eliasbutcher859 the 2.0 liter engines were horribly designed and haven’t been improved upon the 2016 Audi a6 with v6 or with the tdi engines are a much better choice. I don’t like a BMW for the sole reason for the the horrific amount of plastic parts in those engines. Plastic doesn’t hold up to constant hot and cold cycles. Until BMW makes a near full metal engine. Only German car I’ll ever claim loyalty to is Volkswagen….
Lucas motor oil stabilizer should only be used if you're trying to buy time on the car. It comes out like honey. There are many reports that it does not blend with oil well and can cause massive problems with newer engines that run tight tolerances on their oil passages and are expecting a specified oil weight.
That being said, I had a 1995 Mazda Millenia with 220k miles and that thing should have gone to a junkyard. Lucas oil stabilizer and transmission stop slip gave me another 2 years out of that car. Great product if it's on its last limb. Do not use it if your motor is relatively healthy and you need to change an oil pan gasket or a valve cover gasket, just change the damn gaskets.
If you gotta use any flush or any additives to your engines oil 1 you been using the wrong oil 2 you are not changing your engines on time. Also keep in mind additives can change your oils profile and make it corrosive meaning you’re gonna wear your engine a lot quicker
Hey! I agree and thanks for commenting. I bought this car from a gentleman that rarely drove the car. The issue was the inside of the valve cover was varnished in that the look of burned oil. My friend is a BMW tech and suggested that I flush the oil. I have no plans to use an engine flush again on this engine. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it! -Tom
I did the same with my E30 and my Z4 E85. I check the camshaft in my E30 before replacing it and you can see the difference after the flushing, much cleaner inside the Engine. For the E30 i use Liqui Moli 10w40 mos2 and the Z4 is from 2007 and i use 5w40 with Mos2 in the past. but i think i use Ceratec for the next time. Mos2 is better for really old cars claims Liqui Moly an Ceratec for newer Engines, i would use also Ceratec in the E46.
Thanks for watching! So glad you have an e30. They're such cool car and are so much fun to drive. I definitely believe these additives are important for our engines. I send my oil to Speeddiagnostix for an oil analysis every 3k miles and thankfully I'm not showing any wear. I will continue using these additives to ensure healthy running engines. Thanks again! - Tom
great video. only wished you had your exhaust facing outside vs your house. Could easily get carbon monoxide in your home's vents through the doors.
Hey, thanks for watching. You're right! I have smelled it before and this is a good reminder. Thanks again! -Tom
when you add the addetive shake the bottle because i am told that some of the addetive falls to the bottom of the can and can be left behind. add new oil to the addetive can then shake and pour it in the engine. addetiv is alot more expensive then the oil 😊
Good point. I’m changing the oil today to send the sample to speediagnostix. Good reminder to shake the additive. Thanks for watching!!
Always do 2 engine flushes, 1 with the old oil and 1 with the cheap new one then put your new good oil in
Thanks for watching!! I appreciate your help! -Tom
I totally disagree. If you're going to do two flushes, then just be ready to change both filters AND OIL because you don't want the dirty filter in place to start when you add the MOLY. Because the filter on the car is already dirty, then you're going to plug it up with the first flush even more !! You want clean filters to filter out the sludge along with what you're going to dump into the pan anyway ! You don't want to overwhelm the filter with more sludge because of the Moly flush.
After running the engine flush and draining it, should have added new oil ran it at idle for 20 minutes and drained it again to see how the oil looked after the engine was flushed. Yeah it’s a lot of wasted oil but would know if it actually did do anything
Thanks brother! I appreciate your help. Thanks for watching.
Curious why you're losing SO much oil. Must be some leaks somewhere, so you should be using 1.) Liqui Moly Oil Saver, Motor Oil Saver simply rejuvenates hardened rubber seals in your engine that are causing oil leaks. It does this by swelling your seals back to the size and shape they were before they hardened. AND 2.) Liqui Moly Viscoplus for Oil, Viscoplus optimizes oil consumption in older engines. This should be used as a "top-up" product when your engine oil level is slightly low. There are great videos out there on both. Would love to see another video to see how it goes.
Hey! Thanks for watching. No oil consumption. The Castrol oil that I was originally using was horrible. Definitely consuming oil. Now that I’m using Liqui Moly, no oil consumption, thank goodness. I’ll have a new video soon because the rod bearings were done and I’m going to send the oil out to be analyzed after 3,500 miles. 500 miles for a “break in” and 3,000 miles for normal driving. Thanks again!!!
Fantastic video, job done right deserves a like and a few comments.
Thank you! I really appreciate it. Thanks for watching. - Tom
To be honest the 10k service interval will eventually lead to oil consumption. The liqui moly engine flush is all just oil detergent. It does work on getting the little bit of sludge out of your engine. But with that car I’d run amsoil.
Hey. Noah! Thanks for watching. I agree about the 10k service. Curious about the Amsoul. Are you running Amsoil? Any oils that you ran before switching?
I’ve been much happier with Liqui Moly over the Castrol. No more oil consumption. I’m doing an oil change (oil changes every 3k miles) this week and sending out the oil to speediagnostix for a 4th analysis. I’ll curious to see the results. So far they’ve come back clean. I always panic when I get the email with the results, lol. Thanks for watching and I appreciate your comments!! -Tom
@@thedriversapex I run amsoil and in a pinch I’ll run Mobil 1. But the Liqui Moly is not any worse or better than the Mobil 1. I typically run 5 k intervals on changes. There was a write up on around 2005 all the manufacturers. Went with low compression piston rings due to less friction and better mpg. As a result of that and with all the oil and car manufacturers touting 10k oil changes. There is sludge accumulated on the oil ring and results on oil bypassing the dirty ring into the combustion chamber. This is what results in the loss of oil. It’s the detergents that degrade trying to get to 10k.
@@noahkraft6453 awesome info! Thank you. We’re on similar oil change schedules and I think that’s important for these engines as well as allowing the car to reach a proper oil temp before driving hard.
@@thedriversapex Bruh, amsoil is the only reason no oil manufacture can claim they make the best. Amsoil has taken i think just about every manfacture to court when they try it. Your wasting your time trying oils, no manufacture has ever been able to produce an oil that is superior to amsoil sig series. It's the reason they sell so much without a single tv commerical or building.
I've tried every oil, none of them get me the smoothness and cleaness of the ams sig series stuff. Tranny fluid is even crazier. I think they came back with 0 wear after 500k miles
@gravesg spoken like a true Amsoil dealer... no commercials cuz its like a pyramid scheme 🤪
Be interesting to know how Ceratec works in a 2ZZ GE Toyota engine with MMC bores and VVT Li. Searched everywhere and nobody seems to have any info. Even Liqui Moly haven't replied to numerous emails asking about it. May avoid. Great video.
That’s interesting! I’d be curious what Lake Speed Jr. thinks. Here’s his RUclips
youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek?si=dFb3Unj1jikjDpp3
He’s helped answer a lot of my questions. I send him my oil to be analyzed (speediagnostix). Thanks for watching!!
Never used any flushes or modifiers of any kind. Synthetic oil ( Mobil 1 ) changes ever 5,000 miles and that's it. My current vehicle has over 230k miles and still runs like new.
That’s awesome!! Funny story, I had an ‘04 Civic that had synthetic oil from the day I bought it and no engine flushes, etc. At the 200k mile mark, I let the oil change interval go too far and randomly checked the oil. The dipstick was bone dry?? No check engine lights and the car ran fine. No oil leaks, etc. not sure what happened, but that car was tough. My CR-V is on its way to 260k with conventional oil and no additives. Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the video I doing exactly like you only use other brands, works perfect. Thanks
Thanks for watching! I really appreciate it. I’ve noted that I no longer consume oil since transitioning to LiquiMoly. I used to consume a half quart using Castrol. Now, those days are behind me, and I drive my M3 really hard.
Use Ceratec instead.
It’s more complete additive than just friction modifier.
It’s a miracle for cold start chain rattle noise
Hey! Thanks for watching. I did since this video. I’m actually replacing my rod bearings next week for peace of mind. I’ll continue to use ceratec. Thanks again for watching!
I’ve used Ceratec on my e92 M3 and my wife’s LR4 but haven’t tried the MoS2 treatment at this point.
Not sure if the Ceratec did anything but the oil reports always come back quite good
I’m giving the engine flush a try on the LR4 this weekend for its oil service
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching! Those are two awesome cars! My wife has always wanted an LR4. I think they’re so cool. Of course an e92 M3 is epic!!!! My shop’s Liqui Moly rep told him to have me use MoS2. I thought I was supposed to use ceratec. It appears ceratec is for newer engines like the e92 l, etc. Thanks again!
Great video sir. I used liquid molly on my wifes 2019 atlas v6. The oil was crazy black when i drained it.
Thanks for watching! I really appreciate it!
Why you didn't just add the flush in the old oil and change with fresh/cheap one to clean all chemicals in the system?
Try the new generation Liqui Moly Molygen oil with Molygen Motor Protect additive, it's too good.
Sweet! I’m due for an oil change. I’m also sending out the oil again to speediagnostix. I’ll be posting a video soon talking about the first three oil samples. I’ll definitely try the molygen. Thanks for watching!!
@@thedriversapex did you get a hold of some yet?
I'm mixed I don't care if folks use flushes, but I don't think they are very effective personally.
The biggest argument I see folks make in favor of flushes is the oils color, the darker the better but what if color and dirty are not the same?
I'm of the mindset flushes create deposits, heat is the biggest contributor to turning oil dark. The job of oil filters is to clean the oil, they are effective, dirt/carbon/sludge shouldn't ever be in the oil. Most oil filters are 99% at 20 microns, and 85% at 10 microns.
That is insanely fine filtration, the only purpose of the filter is to trap dirt. With heat being the largest factor to oil color there is a few things which can cause oil to darken quickly. Primarily fuel, and alcohols, which flushes primarily are. The high solvent content lowers the flash point of motor oil allowing it to darken/burn quickly.
I genuinely believe flushes simply cause the oil to darken/burn inside the motor creating deposits as it bakes during the 15 mins. Oil darkens with OCI length due to time exposed to heat, I don't think color has much to do with sludge/carbon thanks to the oil filter.
Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for your detailed comment. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for the video. Next time please skip the parts jacking up the car......a lot of RUclips videos have a lot of fluff. You presented a lot of good information
Thanks, brother! Yeah, that was filmed quite a while ago. Now it helps when editing not to add those scenes and it saves me time. Thanks again!!! - Tom
try some liqui moly and oil in a cup incase a chemical reaction to make dark?
Good point. I’ll have to try. That would be interesting. I have oil analysis videos to post. Hopefully they’ll be uploaded soon.
Hi There, I'm about to use this in my Passat B7, 32k kms, so find it very interesting. However, concerning Liqui Moly, I can stand by it even with the fact that I work for BP (Castrol) in EU, having used Liqui Moly in a bunch of my cars. A lot of friction tests proved that Liqui Moly has a better and stronger oil film to develop on metal surfaces and withstand higher temps and use. Just a note, during your next oil change add Moligen (additive, not the oil) to your engine (instead of MoS2). It lasts 50k kms (with oil changes carried on during this period in normal intervals) and drops friction significantly. Saw a video couple of days ago, that measured Castrol oil without it having 0.29mm2 metal wearing during the test and 0.02mm2 when added Moligen additive to the same oil. ;) You can alternate it with MoS2 but don't use both at the same time.
1l oil in E46 M3 each 2k kms is normal, just a factory "not-so-tight" fitting of piston-rings. :)
Wow! Great information. I noticed a substantial difference moving to Liqui Moly from Castrol. I’ll definitely look into Moligen, thank you! Just received my oil analysis back from speediagnostix and the rod bearings are in good shape. I don’t seem to use any oil with liqui moly and hard driving,🤞. Thanks for watching and thanks for your detailed comment. I really appreciate it! -Tom
my friend, don't forget your oil additive was really black. I'm assuming the reason the oil turn so black was due to the oil additive.
1. Try not to mix oils from different manufacturers even if, at first glance, they have the same specifications. If you read the technical sheets of the oils, you will see that there are differences between them, even if they are, for example, 10W-60.
2. Try to put the cleaning liquid while the engine is idling. It will mix by itself.
3. Try to put MoS2 alternately with the new oil, oil-MoS2-oil-Mos2-etc. You can put a little more clean oil in the container of Mos2, put the lid back on and shake the container to use all the additive.
4. I think CERATEC is better than MoS2, but it is more a matter of personal choice.
5. It is preferable to use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. Don't change the oil specifications because that's what you heard from others. At most, you can switch to an oil with a higher consistency if the engine is very old.
Thanks for watching. That’s good info. I appreciate it. I added ceratec to the last oil change. I’ll be sending out the oil again soon to be evaluated.
ruclips.net/video/dj80AFvcmzo/видео.html
Everyone forgets to shake well the mos2 it needs to activate the chemicals
Truth. I do know and have since then. Thanks for watching.
Bro those front jack stands are going to end up killing you. Get rubber punch weld blocks and turn the jack 90° holy shit
Thanks for watching!
American fuel is full of carbon. The E30 from Brazil makes 36% less carbon than your E15. Thats why you get deposits and constant need for flushes. Crap environmental unfriendly fuel of yours. And some consevatives still wanting E0 is insane
So true! Our fuel is horrible. I wish we had better fuel. Thanks for watching!!
E fuel is nonsense. It cost Brazil its rainforest. USPolicy drove incentive for sugar cane ethanol . Rainforest wiped out to meet demand. Sad
Great video. I agree with everything being said. However strongly disagree with oil grade. I’ve recently switched over to 5w50. I would never look back to 10w60
Hey, Leo! Thanks for watching. This is good to know. I’m here to learn. I’m curious for the switch. I’m only using 10w-60 because that seemed to be what I was using. Any recommendations would be great appreciated. Thanks again!!
@@thedriversapex I have spent countless hours on research on correct oils for engines specs, dimensions etc. I have spoke with many engine builders. Some of them well known in the BMW world. And they recommend 5w50 as well. Once I switched over to 5w50. Engine seems to warm up quicker. Engine runs more cool. Temperatures aren’t as high. The viscosity doesn’t degrade as fast. Engine seems more responsive. Revs way quicker. Etc. All benifits.
You ‘recently’ guys and your theories . 10/60 is fine and has been for the past 20 years for these cars .
@@abr5819 tit for tat my friend
@@thedriversapex buy your oil from BMW. They change the specs of their oil yearly to be optimized for each vehicle. 5w30/50 synthetic is what they sell for e46 m3
How do you know it was the Moly and not just the oil? You should have ran the engine, pulled a sample of the fresh oil, then added the Moly and repeated. No control group eh?
Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush.
So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil?
Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk?
Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case.
Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive.
Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change
Hey, Chris! Thanks for watching and thanks for your comments. Comments are everything on my channel and I do my best to reply asap.
You bring up great questions. I send my oil out to Speediagnostix every 3k miles and my oil as such is typically very clean when doing an oil change. I do this to make sure that my rod bearings are not exposed to more gunk than necessary. A BMW tech told me to flush the oil with LiquiMoly, which I did, and I did so with clean oil. I should have mentioned this before, but the oil came out thicker and substantially smellier after the flush. I was a bit alarmed and it made sense after doing a valve adjustment. The BMW tech and I could tell that the engine wasn't getting oil changes as soon as it should have. While I am not a certified tech, but rather a curious automotive youtuber, I felt that given my prior (anecdotal) oil changes helped me to determine that the LiquiMoly engine flush worked.
I agree, a control would have been much helpful and I will do that for the next flush. I should have shown what the oil looked looked like coming out of the engine after 3k miles. I'll follow up with Lake Speed Jr. at Speediagnostix to gain his thoughts on how to properly determine if an engine flush is working. He is super helpful and has spent time chatting with me to learn more about oil. Like you said, a well maintained engine shouldn't need an oil engine flush and now that I am own the car (1 yr) the car is getting the much deserved maintenance it needs. I really appreciate your comments and it helps to drive deeper conversations on my channel. Thanks again!
-Tom
On my 2004 m3 converted smg to manuel I use full synthetic mobil one euro extended 05w40 6qts one qt motor kote its great oh! Mobil one oil filter ...
Hey! Thanks for watching. Switching from Castrol was the best thing I could have done. This is good information. Also, I cannot wait to convert mine to a 6 speed. Next is reinforcing the rear floor and then I will convert after that; I hope! Thanks again! - Tom
Liquid moly is really good I use all their stuff on my 750li v8
Thanks for watching! I’ve really notice a difference switching to liqui moly. Side note, I really want to buy a liqui moly baseball cap, but they’re impossible to find. Thanks again for watching. Also, cool car!!! Those are awesome.
you would know if it workes after the flush you put new oil then 1k miles later flush it out and compare the two
16:30 Should try Petronas lubricant. Developed in partnership with the Mercedes Petronas F1 team.
Interesting. I will definitely check this out. Thanks for letting me know!!
Thanks for the video. Curious to why you went full jack stands and not just drive up on ramps? Seemed like more work but is this for max oil removal from engine angle?
Thanks for watching!! Sorry for the later reply. I don’t have ramps though they’d be nice to have. I like to level the car out and if necessary, tilt the car forward while letting it sit for awhile. While the car is up in the air I can take a look at everything under the car. Thanks for watching!!
Liqui Moly video says you should do Ceratec, then MOS2 twice, then Ceratec again. Rinse repeat.
Very interesting! I had no idea. I will look it up. Thanks for watching. -Tom
i'd like to see moly and clean oil mixed OUTSIDE of an engine. because you have no idea what it looks like when it's mixed (and heated) outside of your engine. we can't assume the dark stuff is purely stuff from the engine, you know what i mean? would make it a tad more scientific.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it. You're right. This video has collected more comments than I ever imagined. I think this is a great idea and would make for an interesting video. Thanks again and look for your suggestion to hit the channel soon.
I used the old liqui moly and worked nicely , with the molybdenum
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@thedriversapex I also used the engine flush yesterday on my diesel and today the oil was almost yellow.
Normally oil would turn black in 5 minutes
@@dimmacommunication that’s awesome!!! Definitely good to know. I’ll most likely do another flush a year from when I originally did the flush. I’m putting about 6k miles a year on the car so they’re won’t be too many miles since the last flush.
@@thedriversapex If you want honest advice I did a flush cause my car has 130k miles and it' s a diesel with the EGR ( not deactivated ), no need to do it yearly basis, expecially on a gas engine.
put it into fresh oil ,heat it up outside the engine and see what colour it goes
That’s actually really interesting and a great ideal. 🙏
After an engine flush aleays drop the oil pan an clean it out. The gunk will get your sump obscured ....
Good to know! Thanks for watching.
there s a reason why the manufacturer said add it to the old oil, because that old oil lost its vescosity caracterestics, and because it is all aboit chemestry we cant do something and think it is better
Hey! Thanks for watching. I appreciate your thoughts. -Tom
19:10 if you want to skip to the results. Typical BMW owners 😂😂😂
Haha!! Thanks for watching. I do the same thing when I’m watching, skip
to the results.
Change oil and filter every 5000 miles and you will never have to flush engine.
Hey! Thanks for watching! I absolutely agree. When I first purchased the car, I noted the inside of the valve cover was a nice shade of old and burned oil. My local BMW tech friend suggested an oil flush. I now change the oil every 3,000 miles and sent the oil out for an analysis until I replaced the rod bearings. Thanks again for watching!
I do the same but synthetic oils still leave deposits. Simply slower than conventional. Did a flush today, running valvoline restore and protect with the Mos2 and the car runs dramatically smoother
Holy shit you said 56 k on the car that is a lot of black , Good idea to use clean oil for the flush.
Right! That’s what I thought. I’m scheduled for another oil change when I return to the states. I’m changing oil at 3k intervals. I’ll be sending the oil out again to speediagnostix for analysis, which will be the third sample. I’ll be posting a video soon talking about blackstone vs. speediagnostix as well as the results.
Thanks for watching!!
Get a tripod with a magnetic base to free up your right hand.
Thanks for the tip. Also, thanks for watching. I really appreciate it!
about to do this on my g35 next 0il change, not that im concerenced about it but just as a maintience figured its proaly never been flushed
That was my thinking. I figured it was probably a good idea and I’m glad that I did perform a flush. Thanks for watching!
@@thedriversapex did you notice a difference after words
What if the liquid moly chemistry is made so it turns oil brown?
Good question. I’m not sure. I wonder if someone watching will know and can comment. Thanks for watching.
So sir if i am right you take out the old oil then you out a cheap one inside with the liquimoly and then wait to take this out with the garbage together to out the new one inside right ? do you work the engine while you have the wrong ''w'' oil inside ?
Hey, thanks for watching! Yes, I run the engine with the 10-40 or 10-50. It won't hurt anything. The 10-40 is quicker to come to temperature than the 10-60. Because one would perform an engine flush only once in awhile, there is no problem with using 10-40. Thanks again for watching.
@@thedriversapex thank you
Ramps. Save you so much time & effort.
So true and on the list!! Thanks for watching!
I keep seeing mixed instructions.
One set of folks says to add the LM engine flush right away and use the "cheap" oil as flushing out the additive as well, then the final oil change
The second set says do what you did.
Confused about what is appropriate and why?
LMK make some calls. I still need to get with Lake Speed Jr. as well. This video, as you’ve mentioned, has stirred up a lot of comments. I do know this, I consulted a friend, and certified BMW tech who advised me to flush the oil as I did within this video. You’re right, this is confusing, but I’d like to get to the bottom of it, and offer clarity to everyone. I do appreciate every comments. -Tom
@@thedriversapex Hey, I appreciate the response! I feel like Liqui Moly (for environmental) reasons can't say use an extra oil change. I reached out to LM technical, and maybe they get back to me. Thanks for the response, looking fwd to what you find out even though I might do the flush this weekend.
@@thedriversapexI’ve messaged Liqui Moly as well but I found this online.
“I emailed Liqui Moly and asked them if you need to do a second oil change after the flush and they said you don't need to. They basically said that the engine flush is just highly concentrated version of the additives that are in their normal oil and that by draining the oil with the flush in it, you remove enough of it that you don't need to change it twice. It will just mix with your new oil. These companies have already considered these things. So in case anyone is wondering- this is a waste of time and money”
@@djolecar88 Well done and very interesting. Thanks for the information and helping out everyone. I really appreciate it!!
@@djolecar88 Thanks for this additional info. Just to be clear, is the recommendation at the end of the day to simply add the engine flush to "old" oil (after 5k miles of use), drain it, and refill with new 10w60 + Ceratec? Also, do you happen to know how many cans of engine flush for the E46 M3? It says 1 can per 5 liters, and I believe oil capacity is 6-6.5 liters. FCP Euro gave me a 2nd can in the kit, not sure if I should just use part of it or the whole thing... Thanks for any info
Were there symptoms that influenced your decision to flush? What were you trying to solve? Burning a quart every 2k miles is within BMS spec, but is alot higher than my 130,000 mile S54; which requires no additional oil between 5k mile oil changes. I'm curious to know if you experienced any increase in oil consumption after the flush. Removal of sludge could be (not necessarily) a bad thing, for a variety of reasons. I am personally hesitant to put flush in my S54. You know the old saying "First, do no harm."
Hey! Sorry for the delay!! I bought the car and I didn’t know too much about its maintenance history other than the rod bearings were replaced under the recall. A BMW tech told me to run the flush so that’s what I did. I did not notice any changes but changing oil helped. I don’t use any oil, thank goodness. Thanks for your comments!! I appreciate it.
No car should burn a quart of oil every 2k unless it was mistreated not serviced properly especially a BMW that's just BMW covering themselves.
I have 2007 Skoda Octavia have 185,000 miles on the clock Id say it burns less than a cupful of oil every 5 to 7000 miles... But I look after it...
I bet you if you do this again, but don't add engine flush, you will get the very same result. Your "cheap" oil mixes with whatever oil is left in the engine, and gets dark immediately.
That’s an interesting observation. You’re probably right. I just finished a valve adjustment and the valve cover showed evidence of very dirty oil before my ownership. I’m definitely bringing this car back to one with a strong maintenance history. Thanks for watching!
I recently used Liqui moly engine flush on my 2018 mk7.5 golf gtd (2.0 Tdi) and even after 500 miles my oil is still golden colour. Usually after an oil change the oil turned black after 10-15 miles. This is on a 29k miles engine. I would highly recommend it👍
It does clean it, but to a reasonable degree, if you want a perfectly clean engine, youd have to take everything apart and clean with brake cleaner and reassemble some parts with new…
@@xvxzarehunter3599 I agree! Thanks for watching.
@@chippie4384 awesome!! Thanks for watching.
You sure this car doesn't need an oil which has the BMW LL-04 spec ?
Hey! Thanks for watching. I am as many e46 M3 owners have switched to Liqui Moly, Redline, etc. Good question. I can tell you this, all oil consumption disappeared when switching to Liqui Moly. I will say though that my oil temperatures are a bit higher. Let’s see if anyone chimes in. There are so many debates out there 😳 Also, LMK if you have any questions.
I don't know engineer but I am very mechanically inclined and please forgive me I don't mean to be rude whatsoever but I'm just curious why would you ever put at 10w 60 in play I think there's a lot of an engine like this
Hey! Sorry for the super late reply and I’m sure others can chime in. I run this oil because that’s what BMW says to use. I’m too scared to run anything else on an expensive engine. I don’t mind driving with lower revs until the oil has warmed up. There are lots of debates and conversations around why BMW says to use 10w60. I agree with you, why? The answer is, I’m honestly sure because I too am not an engineer. Thanks for chiming in!! I appreciate it.
Did the ceratech works great
You forgot to shake the anti friction all the aditives are on the ground of the bottle :/
Hey, thanks for watching! You're right. It's been some time and I can't remember if I shook the bottle. I do shake the bottles because of what you mentioned. Thanks again for watching. I appreciate it.
Do I have to change the oil again right after using the oil flush or do I just replace the oil and drive?
Hey! I'm sorry for the late reply. Yes, please change your oil after running in the engine flush. Thanks for watching!! - Tom
Why eginition on for 20mins
Drive around for 20mins
You can drive for 20 minutes or let it idle for 20 minutes. Liqui Moly says to let it idle and it’s tricky as a RUclipsr to go against the directions. Thanks for watching. I truly appreciate your comments!! -Tom
Can we use this flush to our old model car with millgae of almost 2 lack KM ?
I’m not sure. Have you consulted any forums for your car?
Very stupid to use snake oil flushing. You destroy the crankshaft bearings when the oil becomes too thin. Change the oil two or three times with 200 km between each and the engine will be like new inside.
This is interesting to know. I regularly change the oil every 3,000 miles.
Bro i think i think that's just on oil additive and not a engine flush
After how many miles of driving a car do you think is a good idea to use this product?
I have a 40K mile Corolla that i drive mainly in the city.
Is it a good idea to do this flush with Liqui moly?
Good question. I’m not a mechanic, but I’d say that city driving is hardest on an engine. If you’ve never done a flush then it could be a good idea especially with the lower mileage.
yes, because in the city the engine is heavily used, a cleaning with this additive is welcome. Look in the technical book of the car and see at what interval the manufacturer says that it is necessary to change the oil. If the car is mainly used in urban areas, it is preferable to change the oil even earlier than specified. All in all, it is more important to have a clean oil than to use a cleaning additive. So the order is:
1. change oil at specified intervals (or earlier)
2. use a cleaning additive with each change
3. use a maintenance additive (according to the manufacturer's instructions but not more than is specified)
You should of at least leave one Jack supporting the weight of the car in case one of those 4 things malfunction.
Hey, Andy! Thanks for watching. I appreciate your feedback. You’re definitely right. Thanks again!! -Tom
I want to try this on my 2008 Acura TL type s so for the anti friction I know there’s a price difference but Is the ceretec nester to use than the other anti friction one you showed? Thanks for the input
Thanks for watching! There is a large price difference between that he ceratec and MoS2. I think I prefer the MoS2. Thanks for watching.
So it works
I'd like to think so. While my engine was low mileage, at least for a 20-year-old car, it was evident that oil change intervals were not closely followed. My BMW tech friend could tell by the smell of the oil and the coating leftover within the valve cover. As a whole, I believe the product worked. Like many have indicated, and if I could go back in time, I would have made this more scientific. I think I will revisit this idea soon. Thanks for watching! -Tom
Great video ❤
Thank you!!!
Does that additive works on both hot and cold weather?
That’s a great question. I don’t think it matters because the engine must be warm regardless of the ambient temp. Let’s see what others think. Thanks for watching!
A set of ramps from Wal-Mart you wouldn't have to jack it up
You are so right! Lifting my e30 is super easy. Lifting the M3, not so easy. This is good confirmation that I need to invest in some ramps to make life easier. Thanks for commenting!! I appreciate it. - Tom
Does it dry the seals out?
Hello! Thanks for watching. Great question. To my knowledge, it should not dry out the seals. This flush is not a flush with lots of heavy chemicals. Here is LiquiMoly's website and it indicates that it does not dry out seals. www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/pro-line-engine-flush-p000065.html#2037
Hope this helps. Thanks again! - Tom
Did the exhaust smell oily before? How did the exhaust smell after?
I am just about to test this product this week. My engine is in a bad way. It uses around 1 litre of oil per 250km. So if it improves my engines performance, it will help most.
Hey! Thanks for watching. No oily smells. Sounds like your rings might me the culprit and oil is passing by. I’d say a liter per 250km is worrisome. It sounds like you might need a rebuild. I hope not, and hope it’s something simple, fingers crossed.
@@thedriversapex well we will see. It might explain why I got a Mercedes for free...
@@greghayes9118 if that old Benz has one of the M104 family inline-6, those are known to leak oil via the head gasket (usually at the back of the block). might be worth a quick look.
@@motorwolfe The Liqui Moly didn't do anything for the 3.2Ltr Alloy V6. The new mechanic I have found even said he would not take on the job of putting new valve guide seals in it, as he recently did the same job on E240 - small V6, and said it didn't fix the problem.
He said it is possible the problem could be a, or several loose valve guides with oil passing through.
The upside is I may have actually found an honest mechanic. Or was it that I told him that I have mechanical training from the army?
@@greghayes9118 wow, bad valve seals on an M112? that motor must have lived a hard life. is it burning any visible oil in the exhaust, and have you pulled the plugs and/or looked in the cylinders with a boroscope for signs of oil consumption? maybe a compression test? M112/M113s will always weep oil at the rear main seal (including mine), but that's not enough to account for the rate of consumption you specified.
FYI, valve seals can be changed without removing the heads. not a fun job but not too awful if you have the tools.
I got 350k km in my car should i use it???
Good question. I’m curious what others would say. Is the engine burning oil? It’s tricky, I’d say if the car is running well then maybe not. I worry that the flush could dislodge something, which is sealing the engine. I’ve heard stories of people using a flush on a high mileage engine and then they started experiencing oil consumption. I’d ask around first. LMK what you end up doing. Thanks for watching!!
@@thedriversapex i decided not to do the flush because of what u mentioned... i cant risk it but im taking care of her and changing oil every 7k km or 4k miles ... and shes running good except a little sluggish and some black smoke
All that stuff in a can is snake oil they do nothing it's just a way for a company to make a quick buck
Hey, thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Obviously, you did is job is clean the inside grind in your engine! 😂
why you hand shake? sir
The bottle, if I remember correctly, indicates to shake. Many of the key ingredients settle to the bottom of the bottle, so hand shaking is ideal. Thanks for watching.
did u notice a difference in driving
I didn’t, but the peace of mind was helpful. The car ran well before, which is why I probably didn’t feel a difference.
@@thedriversapex good to know
You're a BMW enthusiast I'm sure you know why all the M V10 cars failed and had bearing issues and lubrication issues excetera it's because that oil is extremely too thick it's way too thick for these type of engines. Regardless of brand new or not. The motor needs lubrication that oil is so thick fails to reach the area's it needs 25w forty at most is what the car should be running whether it's summer or winter. That oil is way too thick! Even if you lived in Florida or Arizona where it's always hot it's still too thick
Thanks for watching! I’m really learning that oil temps are everything. As you mentioned, the oil is so thick. I tell everyone, 210, is one’s friend. I don’t rev past 2,500 until I’m in the 180F range. The car makes plenty of power to keep up with traffic at that low rpm. I send the oil to speediagnostix every 3k miles to collect data on the bearings, etc. I think that’s the second most important thing for these engines, frequent oil changes. Thanks for your comments!! I really appreciate it!! -Tom
damn 10-60 oil?
Lol
Il lavaggio sempre lo stesso olio bisogna usare
Hey! Thanks for watching and for your comment. I really appreciate it. I have a BMW master tech who is mentoring me and he advised at the time of filming that it does not matter. The viscosity is not an issue for this short of time. Though, the LiquiMoly oil isn't that expensive so after I drain the oil I will at times run a quart through until it comes out the oil pan. Thanks again!!!
Gonna try this on a Kia! Have you ever used sea foam as a flush???
Awesome! I have used sea foam and it worked well, too. I have also used through the intake system via the vacuum hose off the intake on my e30. It's a smoky show afterwards, but I believe it helps to clear up deposits. I might actually try it again soon. Thanks for watching! - Tom
I bet if you´d skip the flush liquid the flush oil would have been equally as dirty....
But if you´d drive around for a week with the flush liquid inside together with the flush oil you´d be suprised, i promise!
I bet, good point! Thanks for watching.
But according to liqui moly flush are you only supposed to use it on idle speed for 10 to 15 mins and NOT to drive the car, the additive dilutes the oil....
@@ned1621 You know,, they don´t want to be sued.
Two ads to start off. Good bye. Not watching it.
Thanks for watching.
Can u try ravenol
I have no idea. TBH, I did not know what Ravenol was until I just looked it up. Looks like really good oil. I will have to research this because now I am curious. Thanks for watching and thanks for the recommendation! - Tom
@@thedriversapex most of the bmw enthusiasts here in Europa has switched to Ravenol. Especially the Ravenol RUP its highly praised
so jealous of people who have a nice garage to play with their cars.
i have to do mine on the road :(
Thank you!!! What are you driving? Thanks for watching and dropping a comment. I really appreciate it.
@@thedriversapex I'm currently driving a 1.9 Audi A4 Avant 😆. It's a workhorse rally but nice and comfy. Out of all my cars Ive had I miss the volvo engine BMW driving and Audi's comfort. Have a good day from the UK
Can you use ceratec with moly stop leak or moly engine oil reseal? I want to use both to prevent metal wear and rejuvenate my all the rubber seal.
No. That is too many different chems, seals don't need rejuvenating if it's leaking just fix the leaks, and then run a proper synthetic
@@zachdailyfost4433 my question is more of preventative measures or prolonging the life span of seals. Some seals are pain go replace such as valve stem seals or rear main seals. Pain in terms of cost and to it at home, you need the tools and alot of time to do it.
Fair enough. But ya just run a good quality synthetic and call it a day, if your that overly worried about it have a spare long block and seals ready
You can use both. Half and half. People doing this even on the n63 engine. The “stop leak “ doesn’t have to be used each time though.
Hey! Thanks for your help with the questions. I agree!!!! - Tom
Ceratec is good
Agreed!!! Thanks for watching!!!!
Save 20 minutes. He DOESN’T know if it works