Does Liqui Moly MOS2 Work? Let's find out!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Does Liqui Moly MOS2 Work? Let's find out!
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Liqui Moly MOS2: amzn.to/3aMzX9q
Videography Equipment:
Sony DSC-RX10 III Cyber-shot Digital Still Camera: amzn.to/2YdXvPw
Canon 70D Camera: amzn.to/31b5Gy0
Azden Microphone: amzn.to/34d3DLE
Go Pro Bundle: amzn.to/31aince
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This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC
I love how thorough he is in his testing. I feel like he spends hours going over his methodology looking for flaws. Such diligence, much respect.
Thanks!
This is one of the only channels on youtube that actually makes me feel like i might use this information one day
“Thorough” is assumed here
I agree and you can change "through," incorrect, to "thorough," which is correct, by pressing on the three dots on the upper right of your comment and selecting "edit."
How about bardahl b1 engine treatment?
I've been using Moly additive with every oil change in Cummins diesel engine for over 20 yrs.
Not sure if it's " cost effective " and can't say if it has improved fuel mileage but am confident it has big improvements for cold weather starts.
The 5.9 engine is still running strong after 20 years.
Thanks for sharing.
It’s running strong after 20 years simply because it’s a Cummins
@@SyphADL87 I mean no, I’ve owned many Cummins trucks and worked in them a lot, from the looks of your name it would apear your a “subie” guy
@@Tony_Seed Yeah I'd disregard what the Subie guy says.😂
@@SyphADL87 im sure you definitely dont.
I would like you to test different types of radiator stop leak, maybe use an engine water pump and a clear container with a hole in it and see how good and how fast it works, also what effect it has on the pump, and afterwards you can pressurize the container and see how much pressure it will hold. :)
Thank you for this recommendation!
Let’s try the egg trick with it as well.
david tappe I've personally tried both the egg trick and black pepper and they both worked quite well for me as a temporary fix.
i'd like to see this too.
Egg and black pepper both work well, however you cannot pressurize the system, so eventually your water boils off. It will get you home in a pinch, but its not a permanent fix.
This video is 3 years old by now but in my experience the advantage when using liquid Moly is in the event an engine runs low on oil or no oil at all. Molybdenum used as an additive would allow the engine to run dry for an additional period of time without permanent damage
Thanks for the feedback!
Why would anyone who owns a rag let their engine run out of oil? Other than classic oil burning Hyundai/Kia owners of course.
@@chrismemphis8062 You forgot about dry startups,oil burners and leakers.
I had valve knocking upon starting my chevy 6.0 engine for ages. I tried everything, then I bought this liquid molly, and it actually worked. it removed all that knocking, and made the engine run much smoother. I wouldn't have believed it but it worked!
Impressive!
I put it in my duramax and my lx570
You were hearing piston slap. All LS style engines do that on cold start once the piston skirtcoating wears off. Doesnt hurt anything. Just sound bad on cold starts.
U should to clean your valves with BG-109.
Was the knocking from pre-ingition or poor circulation?
I have tried both MoS2 and Ceratec from Liqui Moly, I didn't measure fuel economies as I tested these in my weekend vehicle. But I have noticed a very clear difference in engine sound, especially when the engine is cold with MoS2. I tried MoS2 first with one oil change and I noticed the difference in engine sound immediately and during the next oil change I pour Ceratec and cold engine sound was louder. Then again next oil change I have added MoS2 again and cold engine sound was reduced immediately. My vehicle is Mitsubishi Pajero Gen2 with 4M40 Turbo Charged 2.8 L Diesel engine
Thanks for the feedback.
Hey man a bit late but I have the same engine in a 2002 triton. Do you notice the diesel “rattles” less with Mos2? Mine is 200k kms never rebuild it. Also want to put it in a 1KD Fortuner as well.
@@zushi88 Yes it reduced the rattling in my 4M40
Your willingness to test the products used by regular people help us to make informed choices at the checkout line. Thank you for all of your hard work
You are so welcome!
He does work hard too! The head tear down and cleaning alone is over the top. You gotta love his attention to detail.
You need to give some time/run to the additive to cover the internal surface and start working. It's not a fuel additive that will show you instant results with fuel burn. It will be interesting to see how the additive perform after certain running in.
Other products have.
I love these videos. You come up with some pretty thorough tests for these products. Also pretty fair and balanced. Thanks for making them and please keep doing it.
Thank you very much!
Dsdcain I agree. They are thorough
Many thanks to Todd and his great thorough tests. I like it that all his engines are electrically started.
@--cLAsic-- what random bs is this?
The origin of this product was in WW2, when Rommel's tanks in Africa had difficults to get oil supply and the germans sent molibden in powder and put it with WATER in the engines, and worked. Later, Fangio tested a car that was filled with regular oil + liqui moly, then drained all the oil and without any lubricant except the protective molibden film left , drove the car 160 km at high speed in the Buenos Aires Autodromo. After inspection, the engine had no damage at all. Since then I use it in every vehicle I've had. My fist was a Ducati bike, and when our bikers group inspected our engines, mine always was in the best conditions, no signs of wear.
The principle is that the molibden particles adeheres ONLY in the parts where more friction are, forming a physical shield in the (rare) event that oil fail to lubricate. Specially on engine cold starts.
So, is an extra protection with no cons and cheap.
BTW I have never need any kind of engine repair in my long life.
Thank you!
neither me,, my engine works as new...i never put the qautioties they say to put, use less, put i put in evryoil changes.
even oil brands used MOS2 in theyr products but stoped using cause poeple didn´t respect the correct use (not every oil change) so it forms residious on the metal. But sure it works and has passed thousands of tests made in decades. And sure it isn´t a miracle, it protects better than oil, nothing more or less.
Lobo Estepario can you provide sources for either of those anecdotes?
MOS2 would only help with boundary lubrication, which shouldn't really happen in a well designed engine. It is a good compound in some applications where boundary lubrication is expected, like in CV joints, but probably won't do anything in an engine where there should be very little or no boundary lubrication. I have a PhD in Tribology and Experimental Mechanics.
Engine wear is very high when starting from cold when all the oil is in the crankcase. Moly and teflon additives tend to stay in the bearings and provide lubrication during starting, reducing wear. Testing with radioactive trace elements has shown this. Normal running is little affected as these tests show.
Thank you!
citation please
How do you know that the regular oil doesn't stay in the berings?
It does!
@@montiacpontana41 in most engines they do. Small engines more than likely not. However in vehicles that have an oil filter screw on type, there is a diaphragm inside that is made of cellulose compound that has a spring behind it, set to the standard for that oil filter. When the engine shuts off as soon as the oil pressure drops below around 6psi for your standard Toyota or honda 4 cylinder, the diaphragm shuts holding all the oil in the valleys. This allows the oil to be immediately available to the engines bearings during cranking and startup. Pressure builds during cranking and while running, but flow is immediate (Excessive damage does not occur during cranking or running when first running because the clearances are higher due to being cold AND because the motor has no load on it besides the weight of the rotating assembly and flywheel/converter+Flexplate and compression of the pistons, there is not enough load to press the flowing oil entirely out of a journal bearing. There will be a small film of oil remaining and constantly being flushed with new material during startup.
The wear is low enough that starting up the engine isn't really going to lower engine life. But vehicles that do that auto start stop "feature" are prone to premature engine failure from lack of lubrication. That and they have been proven to consume a lot more fuel doing this. (not because of the technical functionality of that feature, but because it causes the driver to drive more aggressively from a stop. Consuming the fuel they would have saved if they would have started and stopped their cars on their own term, or just left the vehicle running.)
@@screener545 thank you for your answer. I know that.
You should consider writing a book.
I first stumbled on your synthetic motor oil test where Amsoil was clearly the best. As a Mechanic Designer & formerly ASE Mechanic, I found your test methods complete and unbiased. Been using their motor oil ever since. I recently had to change the Dual Clutch transmission fluid on my Mk6 GTI. I found that Ligui-Moly was about half the price of Amsoil and came highly recommended. So, instead of paying ~ $75 for LM, I spent ~125 with my Amsoil membership. Thanks for helping me feel confident while Auto-Crossing and Track use. Great job! Yes, it cost more money, but for longevity & performance. it's worth it. I'm not compensated for using Amsoil.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I think this additive need more time to work because the molybdenum disulfide needs time to be ground up .
In more expencive tools like HILTI the use a molybdenum disulfide grease and this needs to be ground up by the gears to be effective .
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Molybond use to recommend 5% to 10 % to oil and over 2 Oil changes to get the best results.
I agree it needs time to work...in motorcycles it kicks into action after around a 100kms.
Perfectly right, but Hilti do not use 1.5%, they use nearly 100% Molybdenum Disulfide. :-)
@@friedmule5403 .. No, you'll find the greases used contain only a few percent molybdenum disulfide. It's an additive, to what is otherwise merely lithium grease.
1. Could you run an engine on Kerosene?
2. Could you see how well graphite works as a crankcase lubricant?
3. Could you make some kind of poll system so your audience can vote on what additive/fuel/product you test next for future videos? I have seen other RUclipsrs have interactive polls within their RUclips videos where viewers can vote. Great video, Thanks!
These are all great recommendations. I'll look into setting up an interactive poll.
Project Farm Awesome! I love your dedication and hard work you put into your channel and videos. Thank you!
I think a poll would be great. That way we can vote on what we want to see next.
I don't think it would work. Engines, especially air cooled engines, need a liquid to remove the heat from internal components. Even if the engine was lubricated very well, it would still overheat very quickly and self destruct with no cooling.
Could you test gasoline with the normal 10% ethanol vs ethanol free gasoline to see any power/heat/efficiency different?
You should have put the moly in the oil when you tried it with the bearings
I agree. Oil additives should always be tested while mixed with oil.
@pedrodte nataniel Do you have a brain injury?
Agree
Agree! I noticed he is using mos2 without oil.
If the unmixed or straight up product shows no improvement what improvement do you hope to achieve by mixing it with the control product? Do you even understand the test?
It's named Lubri-plate because moly naturally adheres to worn metal to create a slippery surface. I've only used it when compounded in a n axle bearing grease (wheel bearings, u-joints, driveshaft splines) and as an additive for gear lubricants for manual transmissions to help the gears slide easier on the shaft splines.
Blowing smoke on it would work just the same.
Sounds like a great way to ruin syncronizers if the manual transmission is synchronized
I really love how thorough and scientific you are in your tests! One critique I have (as others may have pointed out) is that this additive acts as a sacrificial plating similar to zddp or lead, and it doesn't work as well as any decent motor oil as a liquid lubricant. Where it excels is with cam wear and in situations of oil loss. I noticed a significant drop in valve tappet noise (I've got an S60R that has solid tappets) after adding this molybdenum package to my oil. Finally enough, running an oil that is marked as European as seems to reduce that volume as well. Still loved the test and I'm always happy to see new videos in my feed!
Thanks!
I put this in my 2006 BMW 325i and it brought new life and power to my engine!
Thanks for commenting on this!
I think your tests were spot on, honest, and accurate. I was really hoping they would turn out with different results. A lot of modern engines, particularly Chrysler and GM seem to have issues with cams and lifters failing - arguably due to poor lubrication - and I'm always looking for products that will keep the tick away. I've had good luck (seemingly but I haven't done testing like you) with Lucas oil treatment and Fuel Ox Friction Eliminator
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
High zinc oil is good for cam wear.
30 years ago I was developing & testing solenoid valves. I would run a bank of valves simulatiously in an environmental chamber. We also tested various lubricants in the course of life tests (very loud!!!). Our ideal lube turned out to be a blend of Mobil One (5w-20), Marvel Mystery Oil and MolyKote ( Molybdenum DiSulfide ). The Moly would empack into the wear striations in the softer material; in our case it was the cylinder wall of the plastic bobbins. The magic blend would enable valves to exceed 200 million cycles versus 50 million for any other lube. Surprisingly, iwe put the moly blend in solenoids (previously with inferior lube) that died at ~50 Mm cycles and they would continue to run for an other 100-200 MM cycles.
I've been putting this blend in my SAABs & Volvos resulting in life spans of 230k - 265k miles.
From my experience the added Moly requires many more piston cycles to make an observable difference.
I added the blend directly into the cylinders and ran them for a while without the plugs ( make sure you pull out the fuel pump fuse first!). I will try this Liqui Moly oil additive as well in my two SAAB 9-3s (182k & 92k miles) ...I'll report back in another 100k miles!
Thanks for sharing.
any updates?
My 2008 SAAB 9-3 2.0T SportCombi @107k miles (purchased @90k miles) got its first treatment @92k so it’s due for a treatment using the chemistry mentioned above. I need to do another intake valve cleaning as well (effects of GDI engines). This vehicle has yet to have its defective valves replaced (see links below) so it needs an extended warmup before driving …I try not to push the engine revs above 4500 rpm so to prolong the inevitable $2k-$3k cost of valve replacement.
I don’t have a bore scope anymore so I’ll do an initial compression test (1); clean the intake …bypassing the Ox Sensor); perform Post cleaning test (2); add Moly Mix directly to each cylinder; run engine until warm; final compression test (3). My previous cold test results were 60,60,59,60 psi as a baseline.
More later.
I'd be interested in hearing the results as well
@@markettlinger6842 Based on your good results, I might start using a modified version of this treatment full time in my engine. My 130,000 mile Subaru Forester XT Turbo is starting to consume oil from suspected coked rings as per my independent Subaru specialist mechanic. It takes 5 quarts normally. At the last oil change, I decided to put in 5 quarts of LiquiMoly MoS2. I wonder if it would be safe to run a mixture ratio of 1 Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to 4 Quarts of the LiquiMoly MoS2 at my next oil change? I wonder if it'd be safe to run this hypothetical mixture for the full 3,750 miles oil change interval? Thanks for sharing your solenoid testing results, that was very interesting.
After watching several of your videos where you evaluate products with a lawnmower engine, I had a thought. (Miraculous, I know!) The products you test make claims of gains after one tank. The tank on your mower runs for how long? I'd guess 60-90 minutes. One tank of gas in an automobile runs for 6-8 hours. Perhaps you're not giving the products enough time to accomplish what they're intended to do. Great channel, though. It's really fun to watch your tests!
You should try mixing all the fuel additives you've used over time, like seafoam, mystery oil, and other ones you've tested before and run the engine on them, how good will all the cleaners clean.
Thank you for this recommendation!
I agree that would be cool
And all the fuels you've used exept gasoline
I think he should too. It would be cool
I've used this Additive for my 1962 Chevrolet Nova for years and the I'll changes are less often. So for my experience. It works. Thx for this video. Chao
Thank you for commenting!
The fact that you used a long time it doesn't mean it works... You can buy snakeoil forever.
john handcock The fact that I am a classic muscle car user and it takes me more time to fix mistakes I make with the car since it’s “classic” , yes I can say it works and I’ve used it for a few years.
not evidence
Literally one of the best channels ive found. So thorough and so simple and straightforward. Not trying to say or prove something, simply showing us the results and letting us all learn together. Please dont stop doing your thing man. Hats off to you
Thanks for the feedback.
This Mos2 shooter actually works...... i startred using it since past 1 year trust me...... it does makes a significant difference in overall experience from the engine.....
Thank you for the feedback!
I’d really enjoy a showdown between same-brand piston aviation oils. Phillips Victory 100 (straight 50wt) and Phillips X/C 20W-50 (multi grade). Basically, I’m very curious as to what the bearing test would reveal as far as wear/scoring. A few guys even run the aviation oils in air-cooled motorcycle like Harley-Davidsons and Moto Guzzis. Thanks and always appreciate your practical engineering mindset.
Thanks for the video idea.
Valvoline is great oil. I have been using it in all my rigs since 1974. I have had several rigs run for 250,000 miles + before I sold them still running perfectly.
It takes 500 miles of driving for Moly to start working. I also treated the Transmission oil in my Z3 with 5speed manual with moly. Smoother shifting.
Thanks for commenting.
Project farm: MoS2 does in fact make a slight difference in fuel economy, but at the decimal point level. In my personal experience, this product is for extending engine life under severe use, while under automotive-level film pressure, not under passive sling lubrication in a small engine. It works by smoothing out cylinder walls by filling irregularities in at the microscopic level, and it generally takes 1000 miles of driving to bed-in. But the drawback to this is when you run it in an older engine with wear, your oil will be too slick for your valve seals, and tends to slip past and foul spark plugs. So if your older car starts misfiring after adding this, that might be the reason. Your video was still entertaining.
This is great information. Thanks for commenting!
Interesting, super helpful, putting in in my wifes van 180k miles, will keep an eye out.
If you are experiencing decimal point difference in fuel economy that could very well be just from driving up and down a few more hills or hitting more red lights. I wouldnt feel comfortable saying a product is responsible for such a tiny improvement/discrepancy. I got better gas mileage this week driving to work compared to last week.Only difference was i filled up at a cheap gas place and not my usual Shell. But i'm not going to say the cheap gas place had better gas.
And how does it smooths out the cylynder walls? It grows the metal? Or grows some sort of goo that is covering everything inside engine not only micro iregularities? :D
To the best of my understanding it is classified as a transitional metal. It It a very fine form in the micron size. I think it is supposed to attach itself and build up as a film both in the high wear areas and irregularities. Now If it actually does that I have no idea. All I know is Molybdenum disulfide itself it some really good stuff and this seemed like a good way to get some in an engine. I put 1 can in my wifes van and it seems like its running a little better and quieted noise a little. I'm gonna give it 2 treatments total, one with the next oil change and see if it improves mileage, by showing improvement in MPG. We use a phone app to log fuel every fill up for over a year now so we have a good baseline.
This one is pretty hard, i use it in race applications where loads and temperatures are completely different to what a briggs and strat or cold lubricity tester can replicate. We also use it in situations to help where oil starvation is possible, using it here where the engine is never starved doesn't make a lot of sense.
Personally to test this i'd 2 engines side by side brand new, run one with just oil, one with oil and mos2, drain the majority of the oil (except for a tiny amount at the bottom) and see which one lasts before it dies. You might see more of the benefits of MOS2 then.
Thank you
Hi Todd, Great job on the VDO! I am familiar with the following aviation applications of molybdenum disulfide: It is used for high heat areas as an anti-seize, e.g., jet engine hot section borescope plugs (750 C / 1,382 F) and axle nuts on wheel assemblies using steel brake discs, (450 C/842 F). In the military, I saw it in spray can, (solid film lubricant), used to lubricate ejection seat rails. You can appreciate a solid film not collecting debris and dust where a wet lube, e.g., oil and grease attract debris and dust.
Subsequently, I think you were right to be suspect of its claims and think it is "Snake Oil". Why? Because it's a single additive. Today's synthetic oil additives make up anywhere from 10-30 percent. They include chemicals that act as detergents, friction modifiers, antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors and viscosity index improvers, just to name a few. So, I think you have proven their claims at MOS2 are false.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Don’t ever doubt yourself... you ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS do an awesome job testing these things. I think I speak on behalf of everyone who follows your channel, we trust your tests more than any of them “scientists” in labs filling their pockets with cash for bogus product claims. Keep doing what you’re doing. Still the best channel on RUclips!
Thank you very much!
But he´s testing a 4 Stroke treatment for older engines on a 2 Stroke that it wasn´t designed for!
That is not awesome , that is damaging to the Company!
LA TEEZI their* pockets you're* doing
@@stfuplsok there’s always that one guy… ok thanks Mr RUclips Grammer Check…
@@LA-TEEZI *Grammar
Good motor oil already contains a certain amount of molybdenum as part of its additive pack. Liquid Moly is meant to be an oil additive to raise the level of Molybdenum in your oil, not supposed to be used alone as a standalone oil replacement.
If the oil used already contains a lot of Moly in it, you might not see any difference whatsoever, however, with cheaper (lower grade) oils, the addition of Liquid Moly might actually improve its performance. Pure Molybdenum is actually quite expensive in relation to other additives, which is why some lower grade cheap oils might contain either none or very little compared to say an Amsoil Signature Synthetic.
Moly is actually a solid, if you can zoom in enough it looks like horizontal plates, that slide on each other, which is what gives it a lot of lubricity. It can take a lot of horizontal (frictional force). It can’t take a lot of compressive force, the plates will just slide out of the way and allow metal on metal contact, that’s why it needs to be suspended in oil with other additives to maintain compressive strength.
Oil and additives is a complicated subject, that requires a balancing act depending on application. I think this one is a good candidate for retesting: say a low grade motor oil, then test the same oil with Liquid Moly added. Also, maybe try the bearing test with various weight applied (a few with low grade oil, then a few with Liquid Moly). Just a suggestion.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm This is not fair test. First you did not use quantity of additive recommended it is usually the whole can for engines up to 2000cc or could have used at least half or quarter for small engine. Liquid molybdenum was used by Germans during the ww2 in their airplane engines and that was as protection in case engine gets punctured(...) and stays without oil, so that it can make it back to the airfield without stalling. Plus it has exceptional anti friction properties and is able to form ultra thin layer (atomic) of metal on both Surfaces filing up small scratches on Surfaces.
When put to the test, which silicone caulking will stay water proof the longest? Also, a neat video idea would be which woodglues work the best/which wood glues are the strongest? I can't wait to watch this video! :)
Thank you for this recommendation!
Southern Pride
most if not all wood glues are stronger than the wood itself. My dad swears by elmers wood glue. I prefer the Titebond 3 since it is more waterproof.
MOS2 kept me from having to replace/rebuild the transmission in my 1999 BMW M3. The car went from grinding into second gear when cold, every single time, to never grinding.
Thanks for sharing.
You put a lot of thought and effort into the testing and I appreciate that.
Love this channel. You’re definitely saving me money and ease of mind dispelling myths and rumors.
I have tried Liqui Moly Mos2 when I had a newer Honda. I did notice the car started much faster with moly than without. Engine drove smoother as well. I used moly residue in the can and dumped it in the lawnmower, it ran smoother as well.
Thanks for the feedback.
Subjective
@@Abercrombemonkey there is moly already in motor oil and bearing grease/assembly lubes. If it didn't work they would've added it in.
Im curious why you tried the wear test with product only and not mixing it with oil at the sugested rate?
Another great test. It would be interesting to see if a 'wear in' test produced different results. I used to use Slick 50 in a 225 slant six engine. After an accident that split the radiator, I drove it roughly 10km to home with no cooling and the engine didn't seize. I changed the oil (and added more Slick 50 and never had an issue with the engine. I'm not saying Slick 50 is good, but I would have expected a motor to seize under those conditions.
Thank you! Great point regarding Slick 50 sustaining an engine without any cooling.
That didn't have anything to do with slick 50. Slant six engines are just bulletproof.
Jerry Classing Love your work, and I agree. Rumour has it that Chrysler Valiant replaced the slants with the 245s and 265s because they weren't making money on parts for the slants.
That is so True, IMO the slant 6 was the best motor ever built...
i also ran a slant motor without coolant after a hose let go and it kept running although it got damn hot . nothing but regular crap oil in that motor ,
I used MOS2 with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 and the noise and vibration was significantly reduced in my Honda Jazz 1.5 I DTEC diesel.
Even though your test did not show results, but my car has become butter smooth.
I'd be curious to see how much of this additive is taken up by an oil filter, so basically what stays in the oil vs what winds up in the filter. I'd wager that most of this stuff winds up in the filter pretty quickly as it's very thick and has solids.
Thanks for the feedback.
That's a good thought , do oil filters, catch things that are 1 to 5 microns? That's what they claim the size of moly is
This is a great test and I love how throurough you are. However I still believe in this stuff. Even after a couple oil changes you can still see it in the engine as it bonds to the metal. I dont know about it taking x amount of time to wear in. I think this was built for more complex engines than a lawn mower is all. So it would be great at lubricating overhead cam shafts and all that
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Liquid moly stocks just plummeted
I hope not. I think it's probably a good product, but I couldn't achieve the promised results. Thanks for commenting!
hahaha
ALL THE GERMAN BRANDS WORK WELL. Buy it and you will see. I run the fuel injector cleaner in my 2001 Volvo and runs smoother and more responsive.
Jason B that's fine and dandy but I am sure you know that fuel system cleaning and crankcase lubrication are totally different bags of cats
did i hear cats? thats patent pending marca registrada amigo!
5yr old Video & I still see you replying to the comments!
I am a new content creator, You and your work has shaped how I try to interact with my community. Thank you!
You are welcome and best to you in your content creator.
I have a 2012 Ford fusion w/ the 3.0 liter v-6. After adding Moly to a fresh oil change, I instantly saw a gas mileage increase of 3 miles per gallon.
No you didn’t
Have you tried Chevron Techron? If not, I would like to see this chemical concoction put to the test!
Not yet. Thank you for this recommendation!
I used to buy chevron techtron But now I only use Seafoam. Best injector cleaner out there in my opinion. Please test the chevron techtron. I'm interested in what the difference will be
I once heard Techron was the only injector cleaner that truly worked. Cannot remember the source. Maybe Chevron ?
em no I have tried both. But for some reason I've always liked Seafoam better. Would be funny if they were almost identical in the chemical department. I know Seafoam tends to be more pricey
Techron is the only thing I've ever seen make a difference in any of the other fuel system cleaners
Removing the governor was pretty much a similar method that I used on my 79 VW GTI with fuel injection when I tested whether the same claims made by Duralube were true. Engine idle had to be backed down by nearly 450 RPM after adding the Duralube engine oil treatment. The fuel economy also went from 460kms per tank to 545kms per tank over a 6 month period that I had also been keeping records for three years before I added the Duralube one day. Unless the Duralube formula has changed since 1993, I would trust it. FYI, I also use a lot of LubroMoly products so I am not biased in anyway.
Thanks for sharing.
I think you could really benefit from a USB microscope! I think you could get a real good view of the bearing races, and the scoring that occurs.
Thank you! Great recommendation.
👍 for all your work.
I would like you to test the following:-
1). Cracked windscreen repair kits
2). Scratch removal from glass products
3). Which oil is best for VW aircooled engines
4). Engine flush products
5). Do neodymium magnets on an oil filter help
Thank you
You are welcome! Thanks for the the video ideas.
Good video. I appreciate that you pointed out that there may be better ways to test this product and that different running environments might produce different results. That's the scientific way..."under the circumstances applied"... Love your videos!
Thank you!
Another informative piece of work! I bought Motorkote based on a previous video that you did on that product. While I was looking at the comments section on Amazon ( where I purchased my motorkote) I noticed a lot of people were commenting on that they were also buying based on your video. BTW...motorkote is giving me about 1.7 more MPG on my hemi 5.7.
Thank you! Thanks for the feedback.
There's a slight hitch here. You tested the MoS2 in it's carrier fluid as a lubricant alone.
Depending on which version you have it may be intended as a carrier medium and to be added to your equipments correct oil. The correct test would thus be to test it in different concentrations against normal 10W-30. Technically though the piston action of the engine is maybe not where MoS2 will be best. A transmission/gear type assy seems more likely due to the low-friction particulate nature of MoS2. Still an awesome test!
Any chance of replacing the engine oil with diesel fuel?
Thank you for this recommendation!
i would like to see this one too
oh, that's a good one, especially comparing older style high sulfur to new ultra low sulfur diesel since the sulfur made for a great lubricant
This guy deserves a trophy. Wish you get very rich doing this. You deserve.
The moly additives are for long term use as in a oil change period its needs to be circulated in the engine for a mix an adherence to the engine pistons cly.
I had been waiting for videos like this for years. Bust those snake oil man i appreciate what you are doing. Your giving us a big favor keep it up
Thank you!
Great videos I know companies start sweating when you start testing Great unbiased content looking forward to all your videos
Great point! Thank you
On my bottle is written: Works after 1000km. MoS2 gold in ballbearings and its most effective on extreme pressures and can lubricate very good although the grease is gone. In your engine it should mostly reduce wear. Extremely high pressures should occur in the transmission.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm Thanks, lubricants are a science of their own. I think MoS2 is effective on pressures which are too high for normal grease or oil or where the oil or grease is gone. I dont know if there are places in the engine where this is the case. This is very interesting: "Ultimate Chain wax - make it yourself"
Curious if used in a Vehicle with an Oil Filter How Much Molly would Be In The Oil Filter Versus the Engine I’d like to See an Oil Filter Cut Away After 100 Miles To See 😎👍🏼 Interesting Test On This Snake Oil
Thank you for this recommendation!
I've used it in my 14 jetta and the filter was full of it when I changed my oil. As a professional mechanic I think the oils from them are great but would steer clear of the additives with the exception of the diesel stuff.
If this put molly into the filter there would be feinds buying this crap left and right... lol
Chandler Woody 😆😆😆
I contacted liquid moly, it was a little long, here's the short version "particle size of between 0,3 µm and 0,5 µm, far too small to get stuck in common oil filters". Not snake oil, molybdenum disulfide is really good stuff.
Years ago they sold engine oil with graphite but they found the solids would settle out and tended to plug oil galleries. If I can't see a tangible improvement with additives they fall into my snake oil category. Thanks for your diligence and work mate.
You are welcome!
This stuff is hard on seals, I used it in some CAT pressure pumps at work in the right % as described by the manufacture. I was talking to a R&D oil engineer at subsidiary of Kluber Oil and he ask me if I have seal issues and said yes. He said this form of moly is hard on seals.
Great feedback. Thank you
Why would you need that on CAT pumps?
@@gearloose703 In our application we go through pumps every 2 years even with Summit (Kluber) Industrial Products high end full synthetic oil with high anti-wear additives. The pump in question is ran at very low rpms at times and we over fill to compensate for no flinging as per CAT. I thought adding Moly would help , but talking with the R&D chemist at Summit the first thing out of his mouth was "are you having seal issues?" I said by God yes, how did you know?. I stop using it and I have yet to have a seal issue other then on the "water side" of the pump that has water as it's lubricant. Nothing can be done there.
Thanks for the reply. I don't know much about pressure pumps like that but had to dive into them recently. They appear seriously over built and easy to service, but also sometimes operate 24/7. Lovely designs really, and seem easy to deal with and maintain and in case of more serious mechanical failures, it would most likely be possible to repair them in the shop if that ever was necessary, like when "finding" a slightly broken pump in the dumpster for personal use. When it comes to pressure washer dick measuring contest, that would literally blow the neighbors away :D
I trust your test results. You are the only person I can come and watch knowing what I'm seeing is factual information. Not altered information because of some kind of sponsorship deal. There's not many people on YT that I trust with their product testing. You sir, are one of the select few I enjoy watching because I know I'm seeing the truth and not something modified to fit someone else's agenda. Keep up the great work with this channel. I think I'm gonna subscribe to your channel just to see more of your no nonsense videos👍
Thanks! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Love the videos. If you haven't done it yet, I'd like to see how your top rated fuel additives impact catalytic converters and how your top rated oil additives impact variable timing valves. D-man
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
I use the Molybdenum Sulfide component as a graphite (drylube) replacement in camera repairs. It reduces friction on badly finished and polished parts. You might see more difference on cheaper, less well built engines. The Molybdenum is supposed to attach to the metal surface and reduce friction. If the part is very well polished and hardened, the oil film is propably enough and you might not notice any effect of the Moly.
Thank you for this information.
We've been adding this product to our industrial gearboxes, which run 220 and 320 ISO grades. The bearings are lasting a lot longer and there is less metallic residue inside. It's not what it is designed for but it has saved us downtime.
Thanks for sharing.
Another outstanding video! Thanks!
Thank you!
In the early seventies I used a moly based oil called Oillmo. It was supposed to increase gas mileage and reduce friction. My father warned me against moly in oil, as it had come out when he was in his early twenties, around 1938. According to him it collected in oil galleys and partially plugged them, causing oil starvation. I didn't believe that a "modern" product would do the same thing as something that was marketed almost 40 years ago. I should have listened, as it did exactly the same thing and caused me to rebuild the engine. If it settles in the can, it will settle in the engine.
I have a Ford fusion 2.3L (2007) I was convinced was about to blow up because it sounded bad for 10-20 minutes after startup. I decided to toss the mos2 in as a hail Mary. It took about 200 miles before I began to notice a difference in the sound of the engine. After 1000 miles the engine sounded like new and the grayness of the oil had disappeared. I feel that this additive saved the engine to die another day. I am about to change the oil after 6,000 miles and I will be adding half a bottle of this stuff for maintenance. I am a believer in it. I actually watched this video before deciding to try it, but I had heard that it takes time to work prior.
Awesome video! Just a quick suggestion for another video. Could ya compare different rust removal products like por15 and it's competitors?
Thank you for this recommendation! I definitely plan to test rust removal products in a future video episode.
Project Farm awesome! Definitely would be helpful for us up here in the rust belt!!
I used a por15 product on my floorboards once.....had to grind off the drips....good stuff...
Hey Project Farm can you test what dry lubricant 1. Lasts Longest 2. Works Best?
Thank you for this recommendation! Are there specific ones you'd like tested? Could you please create a new comment so I can easily find your recommendation? Thank you!
1. Lasts Longest 2. Works Best And has the least wear on bearings? Specifically 1. CRC Dry Moly 2. Liquid Wrench Dry Lube 3. WD-40's Own Dry Lube 4. PB Blaster's Dry Lube Thank You!
I agree that this would be a great test.
See my other comment
I've never used the product, I just really appreciate the work you do.
Thanks so much!
Awesome video. I love how thorough you are with this stuff. You take out all of the variables. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Every time I fill up gas on my 170k Honda Odyssey I write down current miles, date, gas station location, and gallons put in
I use that information to automatically calculate mph in a spreadsheet in my phone. I am going to start adding the moly and adding that information to the gas log and maintenance log in that spreadsheet for a year and see if the average mph goes up. I also keep track in the log when I add and remove things like roof rack and trailer towing.
Thanks for sharing.
Did not do anything. However when it comes to moly grease in your ball joints u-joints slip yokes tie rods etc that will see water/mud and regular extended service intervals you will not get better. My opinion/experience. This from 90 diesel pick up [bush work truck all its life] 700K+ and original ball joints still it
All great points! I like moly the applications you mention as well.
Hey I love your stuff. By far the best reviewer out there. Is there anyway you could measure the thickness of the bearing after your lubricity test just to see which bearing has more wear? It might help in some of those tests that are too close to see the difference. Don’t do it for me you just mentioned you read every comment and I thought maybe it could provide more insight to the amount of damage done to the bearing after the test. By all means keep up the great work I’m hooked on Project Farm. Every time I buy a tool I look for your review first. I’ve recently had to drill some holes in some stainless steel at work. The review you did on holesaw’s was fantastic and I appreciate your help with my decision for the proper holesaw! Love me some PF!
Thanks for much! Thanks for the suggestion.
back in 1965 there was an additive called slip g. it had the mos2 in it. the instructions were NOT to put it in an engine or power steering or automatic transmission. I put it in the steering gear, manual transmission and differential on my 55 chevy. yes, it did make a noticeable difference especially on the ease of the steering. as for engines?
Great feedback. Thank you
I have tried many oil additives over the years on different machines and for the best value, I like Bestline , Prolong, Arch-oil, BG- MOA, in that order. I did try Liquid-moly and had the same results as you. Patron was the best, but the cost was too high for the value. Thank you for your test. Please consider testing the above additives in a new video. I am not sponsored. I would like to see how the tests compare. Also I discovered that adding a few ounces of quality 2-stroke oil to the fuel in tractors and pre-emission vehicles (non DEF) really helps the engine.
You are welcome! Thanks for the video idea.
No snake oil about moly. Very widely used to cut down on friction in extream conditions. Ever seen a piston with black on the front and rear skirt? most likely it's moly. Some of the best assembly lubes made have moly in them. I have been using it for about 37 years now. My last Honda got 356,000 before it burned a valve and my Blazer has 280,??? on it. Do not use it in a wet clutch engine(most motorcycles) or your clutch will slip. But ever use it just by itself it is made to mix with oil.
Thanks for commenting.
I think you did a great job at standardizing the test. Is the motors you used just not sensitive enough? I mean tight tolerances like higher tech automobile motors?
This is a great point. Maybe the engines aren't sensitive enough.
There are so many oil/fuel additives out there. I have stuck with one brand on my 2 cars that have 190k and 136k miles. I don't know if it works but if it extends the engine life with oil additives then that's great. I have always run synthetic oils along with the 3 to 5k change intervals. Some of my cars are high performance motors which along with that comes high tech controls. Anyway, could you do a test on tier 1 fuels compared to those that do not achieve this rating? Both of my German cars require tier 1 and I challenged that once. After fuel fault codes I switched back to tier 1 and all the faults went away within 1 full tank. What are your thoughts?
Just some new knowledge, new automotive engines are actually looser because there is less drag therefore better fuel economy. However this causes them to burn about a quart of synthetic oil every 1000 miles. I learned this by looking up why my new car burns oil.
or maybe engines are in a very contition ordr, so if they are great, of course they are not "sensitive" they are woirking perfectly, oil pressure is antifrictionizing,, what fukin results do you wanna see? a fukin miracle??
you people dont understand shhit, and you dont know how to maike scintific tests..!1
Excellent test as usual BUT….. one thing that is left out…..Molybdenum additives take some time to adhere to the surface. It is a dry anti friction agent very much like graphite. In engines and transmissions it takes about 3-400 miles before you begin to feel the effects and have any measurable results. Moly isn’t a lubricant, it is an anti friction agent adhering to the metallic surfaces. Moto Guzzi uses this additive even in the modern transmissions and bevel drives even though synthetic oil is required. Anybody who owns an old Moto Guzzi or BMW motorcycle with mechanical knowledge would confirm this.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
My mechanic says that you are going to see a difference after a few time not an hour ,you should run it for one hour a seat for a week to see a difference
Great point and thanks for commenting on this!
Project Farm thanks for making these videos!
Does your mechanic also change your blinker fluid?
Johnathan Balducci very funny ,idiot
Κώστας Λεούσης Well... The product does NOT say that... So a technician should know better than the manufacturer right?
Liqui moly freed my lifters up in my 370,000 mile pick up. I wish your friction test would have been done with liquid Molly and oil
Look how clean the engine can be after using Liquy Moly oil and engine flush
ruclips.net/video/x4u64lKBbhQ/видео.html
I used a moly product for motorcycle fork oil and supposedly it smoothed out any stiction but had no way to A-B test it.
Here are some random test ideas: Ear protection, what brand protects the best? Air compressor fittings like Milton vs Chinese which seal the best and which are leaky, ease of use? Air tool testing; cutoff, air ratches, air chisels. Cut off wheel media both large and small, which cuts the best and last the longest? Air regulators, accuracy. HVLP spray guns, how evenly can they spray a metallic paint? Air brushes for touching up small scratches or chips in paint. Hand cleaners vs dish soap. Best work gloves, latex or disposable gloves? Best garage floor cleaners, best engine cleaners, best oil spill cleaner. Thanks again for all the interesting videos.
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestions.
Never heard of Liqui Moly MOS2, but I've been a sucker for moly based lubricants for certain applications for many years - so far out! - this should be good.
Thanks for commenting!
Seems like an awfully expensive way to keep dumping into an engine for the "just in case" you happen to lose all your oil (ie major drivetrain failure). I've had my Civic run dry, no MOS2, still runs fine once oil was added again. Anecdotal evidence doesn't amount to much, not to mention major failure like losing all oil suddenly is not a common occurance, adding this to a car every single oil change seems like an expensive way for it to have no benefit other than such a rare and random occurance, you'd be better off just keeping a quart of oil on hand in case oil pressure is lost, then you could drive somewhere and buy MOS2 (or just fix the failure).
sounds like this dude is just salty that he has lived a lie for over 40 years.
I have used this additive for years and it does make a difference. First off mix it in with the oil then poor that mix in. Secondly it does take time for this to work it's way into the pores of the metal. It will normally last 2 oil changes and then it will be washed out of the oil. I am a mechanic for 10+ yrs. At first I thought it was a waste as well but my engine actually ran smoother and smoother. It took about a week for me to notice it in my vehicle.
Thanks for sharing.
E85 vs gasoline in a non E85 engine
Thank you for this recommendation!
yes please, this would be a really good one.
Sean Bluhm it will work, but will be hard to start cold and timing and fuel delivery may need to be adjusted.
You do have to give it time to coat the inside of the motor . I have 4.6 Ford truck the the lifters were starting to get a little noisy . I added Moly Kote and they quieted down a lot to the point I can't even hear them ! I run 5-20 syn-tech oil and change it and the filter at or around 4000 miles . And add a bottle of Moly Kote also . Just give the stuff a little time to give everything a good coating ! It does work ! Use to use the old slick 50 years ago also, until it changed !
Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah he tested it incorrectly
Please test liqui moly ceratec😉
Thank you for this recommendation!
Yes, I support this suggestion as I started to use Ceratec some time ago in my car and I am pretty convinced it does a great job
Great idea! I have used the swiss ceracoat nano additive; and am also conviced it works...
I would love to see Ceratec tested too. I think it will work better than MOS2 in a modern engine since it's a much more modern formula.
I wish to see ceratech
I really enjoy watching your videos I've learned a lot..
Thank you
i would really appreciate it if you could try some Nulon products manufacterd here in Australia they are highly regarded as some of the best. not so sure if there available there in the USA but possibly online. ive been loving your channel, thanks for your efforts
Thank you for this recommendation!
Good Job Project Farm 👍 I used it 50 years ago under the name Marly in a Citroen 2 HP and with good results (after a few months) with the current engines I don't think there is much to gain.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I would love a more thorough re-test on this... mix it with oil on the lubricity test, I saw a huge difference with liqui moly, my drain plug has a very strong magnet and the amount of material on it each oil change has almost reduced entirely after using it
Thanks for the video idea.
My previous car was a Toyota Land Cruiser Diesel, it did just over 500000Km's without overhaul, and the bottom was in great condition when they did a minor overhaul on the top end with new valve stem seals, cleaning and refinish the valves and ultrasonic clean of injectors.
Engine has never had any additives since new and I used the same Mobile Delvac XHP Synthetic 10W-40 oil, changed oil and filter every 20000km's.
That car now have just over 650000km's with the current owner, living in harsh winter climate in northern Sweden.
Thanks for sharing.
I used this in my Corrado VR6 engine and chain and lifter noise went away. Friend used it in his and its really quiet. seems to work fine on noisy lifters, dont think they designed it to work in lawnmower engine and generator
Impressive! Thanks for commenting on this.
Great test, keep it up.
Thank you!
I have a vehicle with the Pentastar 3.6L engine. It was starting to get the Pentastar tic at about 200,000 miles. I put a can of Liqui Moly in my next scheduled oil change and within a few seconds the tic was silent. It has stayed that way, even though, I have not added any more to a subsequent oil change. I now have 239,573 miles on that same engine and it is still running quietly.
Thanks for sharing.
My dad introduced me to moly additives and I’ve been using them for over 30 years. I’ve used Liquimoly MoS2 additive for the last 15 or so years and it’s made my engines smoother, quieter, and slightly better mileage.
Thanks for sharing.
Extralube ZX1, it's even has a NATO part number, it comes also in a synthetic grease too.
Thank you for this recommendation!
ZX1 is a fantastic product
Used it for years 👌
I don’t think there’s a problem with your testing. I now think there’s a problem with the product. Thanks I was considering it for my motorcycle but have now discarded that idea. Really appreciate your work. Thank you.
Thanks and you are welcome!