I agree and you can change "through," incorrect, to "thorough," which is correct, by pressing on the three dots on the upper right of your comment and selecting "edit."
I have a 1985 Mercedes 190D, diesel with 800k miles. The engine and injection pump are original and have never been opened. I recently noticed a lifter tic from the hydraulic lifters. It was becoming constant. Not going away after warm up but continued long after. Power was noticeably down on this little 2.2 liter, non turbocharged engine. After watching this video, I applied Liquimoly. The tic disappeared and stayed away. Engine power came up and is noticeable. Thank you for your efforts in producing these videos.
Wow! Brings back memories for me!! Back in the 1970's my father and his best friend bought into, and were selling a motor oil called "Moly Black Gold " motor oil. They even had a dirt modified stock car with the logo on it. My father had a 1970 Ford pinto that he used to show how well the oil preformed. He would meet up with a prospective buyer, usually at a diner, and drain the oil from the car. He would leave the oil in a container there,, and hand the oil plug to the person; they would drive 25 miles, turn around and then 25 miles back. Dad did this for a few years!!! Unfortunately, one day, one of the "oil giants " purchased the rights to the oil, and on the shelf, away from the public it went. The oil looked like used drain oil, lol. It had Molybdenum Disulphide in it. It also bolstered it would last 20,000 miles between oil changes (and that was in the '70's)! We had so much of it around, I used it in my 1972 SS454 Elcamino and at 403k miles had to stop driving it because of body rot. It still ran!! Thanks for another great video!!
I use the stuff for long-term wear reduction... the MoS2 protects engine parts when they are dry during startup. A better test of wear would be to coat the test bearings and then remove the lube supply. Or run two motors to failure without oil, after running one for a while with MoS2.
30 years ago I was developing & testing solenoid valves. I would run a bank of valves simulatiously in an environmental chamber. We also tested various lubricants in the course of life tests (very loud!!!). Our ideal lube turned out to be a blend of Mobil One (5w-20), Marvel Mystery Oil and MolyKote ( Molybdenum DiSulfide ). The Moly would empack into the wear striations in the softer material; in our case it was the cylinder wall of the plastic bobbins. The magic blend would enable valves to exceed 200 million cycles versus 50 million for any other lube. Surprisingly, iwe put the moly blend in solenoids (previously with inferior lube) that died at ~50 Mm cycles and they would continue to run for an other 100-200 MM cycles. I've been putting this blend in my SAABs & Volvos resulting in life spans of 230k - 265k miles. From my experience the added Moly requires many more piston cycles to make an observable difference. I added the blend directly into the cylinders and ran them for a while without the plugs ( make sure you pull out the fuel pump fuse first!). I will try this Liqui Moly oil additive as well in my two SAAB 9-3s (182k & 92k miles) ...I'll report back in another 100k miles!
My 2008 SAAB 9-3 2.0T SportCombi @107k miles (purchased @90k miles) got its first treatment @92k so it’s due for a treatment using the chemistry mentioned above. I need to do another intake valve cleaning as well (effects of GDI engines). This vehicle has yet to have its defective valves replaced (see links below) so it needs an extended warmup before driving …I try not to push the engine revs above 4500 rpm so to prolong the inevitable $2k-$3k cost of valve replacement. I don’t have a bore scope anymore so I’ll do an initial compression test (1); clean the intake …bypassing the Ox Sensor); perform Post cleaning test (2); add Moly Mix directly to each cylinder; run engine until warm; final compression test (3). My previous cold test results were 60,60,59,60 psi as a baseline. More later.
@@markettlinger6842 Based on your good results, I might start using a modified version of this treatment full time in my engine. My 130,000 mile Subaru Forester XT Turbo is starting to consume oil from suspected coked rings as per my independent Subaru specialist mechanic. It takes 5 quarts normally. At the last oil change, I decided to put in 5 quarts of LiquiMoly MoS2. I wonder if it would be safe to run a mixture ratio of 1 Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to 4 Quarts of the LiquiMoly MoS2 at my next oil change? I wonder if it'd be safe to run this hypothetical mixture for the full 3,750 miles oil change interval? Thanks for sharing your solenoid testing results, that was very interesting.
I've been using Moly additive with every oil change in Cummins diesel engine for over 20 yrs. Not sure if it's " cost effective " and can't say if it has improved fuel mileage but am confident it has big improvements for cold weather starts. The 5.9 engine is still running strong after 20 years.
It's worth bearing in mind Molybdenum diSulphide is actually solid and it's suspended in various fluids in all these additives. The particle size is 1 - 5 micron and whilst it has an incredibly low friction co-efficient the two main problems with the material are the wear it can cause too softer materials (such as steel) and finding a medium which ensures it stays on the surface of what actually needs lubricating. I worked in a factory that made it many years ago and we had great fun throwing a handful of it on the ground and seeing the various skids and doughnuts a forklift truck could do.
Been using moly oil additives since the 1980s when my first car was given to me free. It was a straight-6 Datsun 810 which only fired on 4 of 6 cylinders. Prior owner never changed oil and after 120K the rings were shot. Got AutoMoly from JC Whitney mailorder. I was using 20W-50 Valvolene and had to change the oil every 200 miles as it would over fill with gas and very low viscosity. Changed oil and filter, started car and added an 8oz bottle of AutoMoly while the engine was running. Before the bottle was empty the 5th and 6th cylinders kicked in. It took about 1,000 miles before the moly effects were fully in. After that the engine would start right up. The 20-W 50 oil would last 5000 miles and it ran like there was never problem. Ran fine for years until it got totaled. I don't consider the lubricity test valid as Moly requires heat and pressure to bond to metal and that was a simple low temperature friction test. The engine tests require longer runs. Try the test with a low-pressure, scored cylinder and see how it works.
Your willingness to test the products used by regular people help us to make informed choices at the checkout line. Thank you for all of your hard work
I have tried both MoS2 and Ceratec from Liqui Moly, I didn't measure fuel economies as I tested these in my weekend vehicle. But I have noticed a very clear difference in engine sound, especially when the engine is cold with MoS2. I tried MoS2 first with one oil change and I noticed the difference in engine sound immediately and during the next oil change I pour Ceratec and cold engine sound was louder. Then again next oil change I have added MoS2 again and cold engine sound was reduced immediately. My vehicle is Mitsubishi Pajero Gen2 with 4M40 Turbo Charged 2.8 L Diesel engine
Hey man a bit late but I have the same engine in a 2002 triton. Do you notice the diesel “rattles” less with Mos2? Mine is 200k kms never rebuild it. Also want to put it in a 1KD Fortuner as well.
I would like you to test different types of radiator stop leak, maybe use an engine water pump and a clear container with a hole in it and see how good and how fast it works, also what effect it has on the pump, and afterwards you can pressurize the container and see how much pressure it will hold. :)
Egg and black pepper both work well, however you cannot pressurize the system, so eventually your water boils off. It will get you home in a pinch, but its not a permanent fix.
Only one thing I would say is in the video I didn’t see him do like a brand new oil change with the lawnmower or the generator and the liquid. Molly requires a fresh oil change to be added so it’s supposed to be added to fresh oil not already used oil And that might be the reason why he didn’t see a change now I’m not dissing him in any way shape form, I watch his videos. I love his videos. He gives really really good advice, and the proxy tests are really really good especially most of these tests. That’s my only group with this videos that I didn’t see him do a fresh oil change when he added the additive into the oil now that may or may not make a difference, but also in my own personal aspect of things when I use oil additives, especially stuff like this, I would always add it with fresh oil if not, I would take the oil, just the regular regular oil without any additives or anything like that add to my filter pre-oil the filter and then add a little bit of the additive into the filter with the regular oil slap it on there and then I fill up my engine I do the additive in there first and then I do the normal oil without the additive so add already in there with the filter and the oil and additive and then the oil and I have seen a huge change cause I use this in my in my truck and it’s a 318 magnum block and a 99 ram 1500 And I’ve saw and I’ve seen and I felt a lot of improvement right now I am doing a motor treatment with the liquid Molly and the surcoat stuff. I’m doing the surcoat for two oil changes back to back and do the oil MOS2 again here soon next oil change I have 700+ miles about 760 miles left before my next oil change but overall I have seen a great improvement now. I have use the Lucas oil treatment as well but when I found out that liquid, Molly makes it for the heavy duty trucks which I know is not a heavy duty truck, but I did buy it and purchase it and put it in my truck and I have noticed a huge difference as well but I just been sticking with the MOS too And it has it has improved with the throttle response performance and everything else. Also with the looking Molly oil treatment. I’m also using the liquid Molly fuel treatment as well to keep that stuff clean. I’m using the professional pro line fuel treatment in. For best results
I love these videos. You come up with some pretty thorough tests for these products. Also pretty fair and balanced. Thanks for making them and please keep doing it.
Most of the engines wear happens when you start the enigne, especially when its cold. No oil pressure and nearly metal-metal friction. This is where MOS ensures that the metal-metal friction is low. That's where MOS reduces significantly the friction. If the car manufactures would add a small tiny electric oil-pump which would ensure that during the start phase the oil pressure is up, there would be no need for MOS. But then engines would last longer - a horror for the manufacturers, thus no extra pump. Another advantage : if you run out of oil it may keep the engine longer alife as MOS still reduces friction a bit longer.
Mr Herman, they DO actually make such a device for automotive engines, it's called a Pre-oiler system, allows you to pump the oil inside the engine by flicking a switch, before you start it. The system costs around $200.
This video is 3 years old by now but in my experience the advantage when using liquid Moly is in the event an engine runs low on oil or no oil at all. Molybdenum used as an additive would allow the engine to run dry for an additional period of time without permanent damage
Your thought process and thoroughness in all your reviews are beyond reproach! There is no one else on the internet that does deeper and fair, honest examinations on products than you. I watch your reviews even if I don’t need the product because they’re fascinating to watch. Thanks again for all your efforts!
I had valve knocking upon starting my chevy 6.0 engine for ages. I tried everything, then I bought this liquid molly, and it actually worked. it removed all that knocking, and made the engine run much smoother. I wouldn't have believed it but it worked!
You were hearing piston slap. All LS style engines do that on cold start once the piston skirtcoating wears off. Doesnt hurt anything. Just sound bad on cold starts.
Moly has to "plate" to be effective. In other words, you have to let it run on the friction machine a minute or two before adding pressure. I worked as a sales rep for Schaeffer oil company.
I first stumbled on your synthetic motor oil test where Amsoil was clearly the best. As a Mechanic Designer & formerly ASE Mechanic, I found your test methods complete and unbiased. Been using their motor oil ever since. I recently had to change the Dual Clutch transmission fluid on my Mk6 GTI. I found that Ligui-Moly was about half the price of Amsoil and came highly recommended. So, instead of paying ~ $75 for LM, I spent ~125 with my Amsoil membership. Thanks for helping me feel confident while Auto-Crossing and Track use. Great job! Yes, it cost more money, but for longevity & performance. it's worth it. I'm not compensated for using Amsoil.
MoS2 is great for reducing engine vibrations, tbh. Lower friction means lower heat & lower metal to metal contact. Always love Todd's content but i think that the additive should've been mixed with oil for the lubricity test! 👍
hello. I dont know if you will respond after two years but I agree about comparing oil and just the mos2. I mean the additive should not seen as just an oil replacement. I'm using Liqui Moly 10w 40 in my car with MOS2 directly added to the oil and actually have seen no difference in fuel comsumption and neither in vibration or engine temperature. But I prefer this oil with mos2 additive in order to stop or reduce oil loss as my car has began to suffer worn out valve seals and head cover gasket which causes oil to enter the combustion chamber and burn. I could see oil burn smoke out of the exhaust especially when stalled the engine for short breaks with standard oils but now with mos2 added oil, cant see a smoke any more. And the loss is reduced I guess as it takes longer range for the computer to warn for oil level. It warns when the level goes down about 200-250 ml and I add and continue. I used to have this warn earlier in standard oils. I guess this additive works for a bit longer durance than less friction.
Project farms has tested many oil additives. He always does the just oil additive test and for example. Bestline left barley any mark while it stood alone and vastly reduced the water on the bearing mixed with Pennzoil platinum compared to P.P alone.
The origin of this product was in WW2, when Rommel's tanks in Africa had difficults to get oil supply and the germans sent molibden in powder and put it with WATER in the engines, and worked. Later, Fangio tested a car that was filled with regular oil + liqui moly, then drained all the oil and without any lubricant except the protective molibden film left , drove the car 160 km at high speed in the Buenos Aires Autodromo. After inspection, the engine had no damage at all. Since then I use it in every vehicle I've had. My fist was a Ducati bike, and when our bikers group inspected our engines, mine always was in the best conditions, no signs of wear. The principle is that the molibden particles adeheres ONLY in the parts where more friction are, forming a physical shield in the (rare) event that oil fail to lubricate. Specially on engine cold starts. So, is an extra protection with no cons and cheap. BTW I have never need any kind of engine repair in my long life.
even oil brands used MOS2 in theyr products but stoped using cause poeple didn´t respect the correct use (not every oil change) so it forms residious on the metal. But sure it works and has passed thousands of tests made in decades. And sure it isn´t a miracle, it protects better than oil, nothing more or less.
MOS2 would only help with boundary lubrication, which shouldn't really happen in a well designed engine. It is a good compound in some applications where boundary lubrication is expected, like in CV joints, but probably won't do anything in an engine where there should be very little or no boundary lubrication. I have a PhD in Tribology and Experimental Mechanics.
I have used LiquiMoly Mos2 in all of my cars (old and new) for years and I notice a lot smoother and quieter engine action. Over time, the Mos2 will work itself into the surfaces which are exposed to friction. It was used by WWII bomber technicians to create emergency running capabilities in the engines when oil was lost due to hits taken. Some people treat the actions and rifling of their weapons with Molybdenum in order to reduce friction. The main property of Mos2 is its increasing viscosity under pressure. So where the pressure/friction is most vigorous, the lubrication effect of Mos2 is the highest in a mechanical system. I would always recommend using it long term if you want to treat your engine right. :-)
Is this ok to use Liqui Moli oil additive MOS2 in new R18 Honda engine which already in smooth and perfect condition....and without any need and recommendation...just for more better performance ???? And is this ok to use with any other moto oil or only with liquimoli engine oil... Please guide
@@AliKhan-ml8lh You should do exactly what the manufacturer recommends in the owners manual. This is how your engine was developed and proven reliable.
I have a Ford fusion 2.3L (2007) I was convinced was about to blow up because it sounded bad for 10-20 minutes after startup. I decided to toss the mos2 in as a hail Mary. It took about 200 miles before I began to notice a difference in the sound of the engine. After 1000 miles the engine sounded like new and the grayness of the oil had disappeared. I feel that this additive saved the engine to die another day. I am about to change the oil after 6,000 miles and I will be adding half a bottle of this stuff for maintenance. I am a believer in it. I actually watched this video before deciding to try it, but I had heard that it takes time to work prior.
I really love how thorough and scientific you are in your tests! One critique I have (as others may have pointed out) is that this additive acts as a sacrificial plating similar to zddp or lead, and it doesn't work as well as any decent motor oil as a liquid lubricant. Where it excels is with cam wear and in situations of oil loss. I noticed a significant drop in valve tappet noise (I've got an S60R that has solid tappets) after adding this molybdenum package to my oil. Finally enough, running an oil that is marked as European as seems to reduce that volume as well. Still loved the test and I'm always happy to see new videos in my feed!
Engine wear is very high when starting from cold when all the oil is in the crankcase. Moly and teflon additives tend to stay in the bearings and provide lubrication during starting, reducing wear. Testing with radioactive trace elements has shown this. Normal running is little affected as these tests show.
@@montiacpontana41 in most engines they do. Small engines more than likely not. However in vehicles that have an oil filter screw on type, there is a diaphragm inside that is made of cellulose compound that has a spring behind it, set to the standard for that oil filter. When the engine shuts off as soon as the oil pressure drops below around 6psi for your standard Toyota or honda 4 cylinder, the diaphragm shuts holding all the oil in the valleys. This allows the oil to be immediately available to the engines bearings during cranking and startup. Pressure builds during cranking and while running, but flow is immediate (Excessive damage does not occur during cranking or running when first running because the clearances are higher due to being cold AND because the motor has no load on it besides the weight of the rotating assembly and flywheel/converter+Flexplate and compression of the pistons, there is not enough load to press the flowing oil entirely out of a journal bearing. There will be a small film of oil remaining and constantly being flushed with new material during startup. The wear is low enough that starting up the engine isn't really going to lower engine life. But vehicles that do that auto start stop "feature" are prone to premature engine failure from lack of lubrication. That and they have been proven to consume a lot more fuel doing this. (not because of the technical functionality of that feature, but because it causes the driver to drive more aggressively from a stop. Consuming the fuel they would have saved if they would have started and stopped their cars on their own term, or just left the vehicle running.)
This Mos2 shooter actually works...... i startred using it since past 1 year trust me...... it does makes a significant difference in overall experience from the engine.....
Literally one of the best channels ive found. So thorough and so simple and straightforward. Not trying to say or prove something, simply showing us the results and letting us all learn together. Please dont stop doing your thing man. Hats off to you
I have a concern with using additives by themselves on the lubricity tester. As I see you do that sometimes. It's possible an additive is designed to interact with and enhance the oil, but not have any impact on its own. I don't know that for certain and it's not a criticism, just a thought I've had for a while. Just to ensure it isn't impacting any results
I know your comment is years old I agree, a proper test would of been using it as a additive in the oil as liqui moly intended. That would of been cool to see. I own a newer mustang and 💯 it quiets the ticking down. I love it been using it for years.
@@CozyKG Well, thermodynamically, it must be. Energy in equals energy out. Less friction means less energy transformed from rotational to friction, which leaves more energy in the system (fuel), unless that additive somehow created more vibration or more heat instead, but these are both usually a product of friction as well... So unlikely.
You need to give some time/run to the additive to cover the internal surface and start working. It's not a fuel additive that will show you instant results with fuel burn. It will be interesting to see how the additive perform after certain running in.
I bought my 1979 British Leyland Sherpa in 1986. It had play in the steering of about 75mm/3 inches measured at the rim of the steering wheel. I bought a Haynes workshop manual that explained among other things how to adjust the steering box. I was able to adjust it to zero play without increasing friction. I also added Molyslip additive to the oil in the steering box. After well over 100,000 miles the steering still has no play and is a delight to use. It feels much better than modern vehicles that have power steering.
It's named Lubri-plate because moly naturally adheres to worn metal to create a slippery surface. I've only used it when compounded in a n axle bearing grease (wheel bearings, u-joints, driveshaft splines) and as an additive for gear lubricants for manual transmissions to help the gears slide easier on the shaft splines.
I've used this Additive for my 1962 Chevrolet Nova for years and the I'll changes are less often. So for my experience. It works. Thx for this video. Chao
john handcock The fact that I am a classic muscle car user and it takes me more time to fix mistakes I make with the car since it’s “classic” , yes I can say it works and I’ve used it for a few years.
I use it on back spot facing tool holders instead of grease. It reduces wear on the bar better than grease, without the mess of grease. I also use it on the drawer slides of one of my Kennedy boxes that has all of the heavy items in it. It will get to where it won't slide at all, I'll spray it with moly, and it will open and close like it's empty. Lasts quite a while. Also, it's the best for the cam pin in turning and boring insert holders if you can't run coolant. Never seize collects scale and burns into a rusty mess. The moly will last quite a few heat cycles, even if the insert is glowing red.
My previous car was a Toyota Land Cruiser Diesel, it did just over 500000Km's without overhaul, and the bottom was in great condition when they did a minor overhaul on the top end with new valve stem seals, cleaning and refinish the valves and ultrasonic clean of injectors. Engine has never had any additives since new and I used the same Mobile Delvac XHP Synthetic 10W-40 oil, changed oil and filter every 20000km's. That car now have just over 650000km's with the current owner, living in harsh winter climate in northern Sweden.
Made rocket engine components and moly powder was used extensively on tight heat shrink fits. Disassembly yielded little to no galling or burring leaving the parts almost brand new and maybe a quick stoning to bring them back to perfection. I’ve been a big fan of moly since. Thanks for the testing my dude!
I think your tests were spot on, honest, and accurate. I was really hoping they would turn out with different results. A lot of modern engines, particularly Chrysler and GM seem to have issues with cams and lifters failing - arguably due to poor lubrication - and I'm always looking for products that will keep the tick away. I've had good luck (seemingly but I haven't done testing like you) with Lucas oil treatment and Fuel Ox Friction Eliminator
Added it to my truck engine today, became quieter and smoother. This happened almost instantly, had kinda forgotten about LiquiMoly, used in back in the 80's in Germany.
@@ProjectFarm Of course I have no data as too long term benefits, it did make the engine quieter. Not that it was loud to begin with it is a healthy engine. If I remember I'll update in a few tankfuls.
Ok.Update: fuel consumption has improved from average 15mpg to 16.5 to a best of 17. Noise doesn't seem to have changed but then again I have hearing loss. Is it worth the money I don't know, I guess if you drive enough.
I used the Canadian counterpart to liqui moly called moly slip on my 1970 vw bug. It did increase rpm so much I had to reduce the idle speed. It did need 500 miles of driving before this happened though, and the change in rpm was significant. I used moly slip from then on. Great stuff. Demonstrations.by the vendor showed engines lasting a long time, even when running with no oil in the crankcase.
Yes James, I used Molydyne in all my Volvos and my mother's Volvo. After a period of say the same 500 miles, my mother began noticing her Volvo was "smoother" and would ask for it when I did her oil changes. Fast forward to today and I've noticed this Motul additive has my Harley Davidson feeling smoother, a bit quieter and maybe it's a placebo effect but more responsive
You do the best work as far as thoroughness, methodology, explanations, and editing of any other review guy on RUclips hands down. You must be protected at ALL times. I speak on behalf of everyone here when I say we need you reviews lol. I look at your reviews before I buy anything I expect good results from. Keep it up sir
Love the slo mo shot of the carburetor showing the venturi effect of the fuel. Great visual to show people how carbs work. Also I think its safe to say every engine additive / automotive products sa they will give you more MPG and HP, its like a generic blanket statement they put on everything. Id bet theres a windshield wiper manufacturer out there someone that claims it adds MPG and more HP haha
I have used this additive for years and it does make a difference. First off mix it in with the oil then poor that mix in. Secondly it does take time for this to work it's way into the pores of the metal. It will normally last 2 oil changes and then it will be washed out of the oil. I am a mechanic for 10+ yrs. At first I thought it was a waste as well but my engine actually ran smoother and smoother. It took about a week for me to notice it in my vehicle.
I think this additive need more time to work because the molybdenum disulfide needs time to be ground up . In more expencive tools like HILTI the use a molybdenum disulfide grease and this needs to be ground up by the gears to be effective .
@@friedmule5403 .. No, you'll find the greases used contain only a few percent molybdenum disulfide. It's an additive, to what is otherwise merely lithium grease.
1. Could you run an engine on Kerosene? 2. Could you see how well graphite works as a crankcase lubricant? 3. Could you make some kind of poll system so your audience can vote on what additive/fuel/product you test next for future videos? I have seen other RUclipsrs have interactive polls within their RUclips videos where viewers can vote. Great video, Thanks!
I don't think it would work. Engines, especially air cooled engines, need a liquid to remove the heat from internal components. Even if the engine was lubricated very well, it would still overheat very quickly and self destruct with no cooling.
5yr old Video & I still see you replying to the comments! I am a new content creator, You and your work has shaped how I try to interact with my community. Thank you!
With my personal use on my 2007 Corolla 1.5L, this additive helps to run my engine a bit quieter & soomther with lesser vibration. Also had used their injection cleaner I must say their products works as they advertised!
I have tried Liqui Moly Mos2 when I had a newer Honda. I did notice the car started much faster with moly than without. Engine drove smoother as well. I used moly residue in the can and dumped it in the lawnmower, it ran smoother as well.
My dad was in the raf during WW2 he said raf would put molybdenum disulfide in spitfire engines he said it would protect the engine if the plane lost its oil in a dogfight long enough to get the pilot home. He put it in all off his cars he swore by it.
..then again, lawnmower vs. car engine: it's like taking a 200grit sanded bat, and polishing it with 5000 grit paper, then claiming the bat will hit the ball farther. The bat doesn't require anything higher than 200grit to sand it to shape in baseball. However, polishing a table finish with 3000 or higher grit paper will give even a satin finished table, a mirror finish you can clearly see your face in on wood. Talking what MoS2 will do in a lawn mower engine (nothin) vs. what it does in a modern 2017 - later car engine is the SAME analogy.
@@porpo-donutI agree. His tests are scientific in repeatability, but the lawnmower engine is also running at no load as well so without a load creating added friction is a bit inconclusive. And the same could apply to a generator small engine. My uncle owns a lubricant testing facility near Detroit and there are more scientific ways to measure bearing wear and lubricant fiction, but the cost of the laboratory testing and measurement equipment is not something a RUclipsr would purchase. I myself own an Accredited Metrology Laboratory, and I am a fan and subscriber of the channel...
Excellent video! This makes sense because Molybdenum is known for being a very long lasting lubricant, like for sealed gearboxes that won't ever be serviced, so using it in an engine that has regular oil changes is not an application which take advantage of the virtues of molybdenum
As an owner of one of said sealed-transmission cars.. I think you are giving it far too much credit. My '99 mercedes e320 is the car. Consumers now know the geqrbox vlows up about every 100k if you do, in fact, keep it sealed like they say. Proper 3rd party maintenance now includes additives every 50k, original oil though. Not even OEM knows best all of the time.
Navraj Gill I didn't necessarily mean automotive transmissions. Molybdenum is most commonly used in sealed gearboxes for industrial machinery and even power tools (like the gears that transmit power in an angle grinder or a drill) but to address your comment, maybe the thing that makes a Mercedes a Mercedes is expensive maintenance
Manguy dude Yes sir, as someone who works in the reman/rebuild/maintenance of over the road trucks and agricultural equipment (HDA Heavy Duty America) I can attest to the molybdenum lubricants usage in sealed gearboxes. But man the residue of that stuff when you crack one open that has been in heavy long term outdoor use. It leaves an almost metal stained dense even film.
Comparing older videos (like this one) and the newest ones in conversational style - I concede you may be giving your audience exactly what they want through your present day rapid-fire narration of today, but as an aside I found this video very "conversational" and relaxing to view. (And of course very valuable - there things haven't changed.) Just an observation. Keep up the good work!
Why was the lubricity test done using straight liquid moly and not a mixture of engine oil and liquid moly? You don't run straight liquid moly in the engine. It may be designed to rely on engine oil lubrication.
I was just about to ask the same thing... :) Not that I'm trying to defend this particular additive, mind you. IMO, they're all pretty much snake-oil, since engine-oils are rather sophisticated out of the box/bottle these days.
This stuff was designed to work over time not immediately it has to work with the oil to get worked into the micro grooves and crevices of the metal. I used a similar product and it worked but only after driving it two hundred miles.
Hi Todd, Great job on the VDO! I am familiar with the following aviation applications of molybdenum disulfide: It is used for high heat areas as an anti-seize, e.g., jet engine hot section borescope plugs (750 C / 1,382 F) and axle nuts on wheel assemblies using steel brake discs, (450 C/842 F). In the military, I saw it in spray can, (solid film lubricant), used to lubricate ejection seat rails. You can appreciate a solid film not collecting debris and dust where a wet lube, e.g., oil and grease attract debris and dust. Subsequently, I think you were right to be suspect of its claims and think it is "Snake Oil". Why? Because it's a single additive. Today's synthetic oil additives make up anywhere from 10-30 percent. They include chemicals that act as detergents, friction modifiers, antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors and viscosity index improvers, just to name a few. So, I think you have proven their claims at MOS2 are false.
I used MOS2 with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 and the noise and vibration was significantly reduced in my Honda Jazz 1.5 I DTEC diesel. Even though your test did not show results, but my car has become butter smooth.
We use it in Bobcat. We got some better consumption, but the greatest achievement is the non stop operation in summer time, which is insane from Bobcat if You drive them in hot, dusty, dirty construction fields. An another great usage is in the gearbox of pulley lifters. Reduces the heat around the bearings with 10-20% But here is the trick, how it’s working: add the double amount, what they telling You :)
Good video. Just my opinion but since it's an oil additive, shouldn't the liquid moly be added to a 10w30 mixture for the bearing test? That way you are testing 10w30 against the product as for what it's was designed?
After watching several of your videos where you evaluate products with a lawnmower engine, I had a thought. (Miraculous, I know!) The products you test make claims of gains after one tank. The tank on your mower runs for how long? I'd guess 60-90 minutes. One tank of gas in an automobile runs for 6-8 hours. Perhaps you're not giving the products enough time to accomplish what they're intended to do. Great channel, though. It's really fun to watch your tests!
MOS2 kept me from having to replace/rebuild the transmission in my 1999 BMW M3. The car went from grinding into second gear when cold, every single time, to never grinding.
Fun , but a true test would be engine wear over extended periods of time. We used proma and after years of driving decided it was time for an engine rebuild but after disassembling the 318v8 we just put it all back together it had unusually little wear for a 7 year old high km motor, it sure seemed to work.
If the unmixed or straight up product shows no improvement what improvement do you hope to achieve by mixing it with the control product? Do you even understand the test?
I always use MOS2 when i do oil change. So far i saw some improvements (less noise from engine, hydraulic tappers cleaning, in some cases less oil consumption). Never tried Ceratec (double as price, half of oil price), but next time it's in the list.
On my bottle is written: Works after 1000km. MoS2 gold in ballbearings and its most effective on extreme pressures and can lubricate very good although the grease is gone. In your engine it should mostly reduce wear. Extremely high pressures should occur in the transmission.
@@ProjectFarm Thanks, lubricants are a science of their own. I think MoS2 is effective on pressures which are too high for normal grease or oil or where the oil or grease is gone. I dont know if there are places in the engine where this is the case. This is very interesting: "Ultimate Chain wax - make it yourself"
I think the test was thorough, isolated the tested variables well. But there is a chance that it may take a much larger engine with many more friction surfaces to notice a difference.
This is a great point! I think this is a good product based upon all the reviews, but I just didn't see the improvements and what you've mentioned makes sense.
I have seen differences in my old truck 350 5.7 engine I try it after the truck was sitting for five years and I use these product and it help the engine to get back to life
11:22 I love your videos! I've been a German car technician for 18 years & I have met a few liqui moly engineers & asked them about this stuff. They said it was designed for total oil loss in an aircraft engine and help fill in tiny imperfections in bearing surfaces. If liqui moly was used along with the oil, you could lose all oil pressure but still be able to run the engine long enough to hopefully find somewhere safe to land.
I’d really enjoy a showdown between same-brand piston aviation oils. Phillips Victory 100 (straight 50wt) and Phillips X/C 20W-50 (multi grade). Basically, I’m very curious as to what the bearing test would reveal as far as wear/scoring. A few guys even run the aviation oils in air-cooled motorcycle like Harley-Davidsons and Moto Guzzis. Thanks and always appreciate your practical engineering mindset.
I been using Dow Corning moly since 1970. I used it in my 73 k10 Chevy 4 x4 new truck. In the front diff, tranny, transfer case, eng. I drive it 152 k miles, the engine never burned a drop of oil, the tranny, transfer case we’re still quiet like new, the front diff too. I couldn’t put moly in the rear because of the posi clutches. I built many engines using moly paste during assembly
Good motor oil already contains a certain amount of molybdenum as part of its additive pack. Liquid Moly is meant to be an oil additive to raise the level of Molybdenum in your oil, not supposed to be used alone as a standalone oil replacement. If the oil used already contains a lot of Moly in it, you might not see any difference whatsoever, however, with cheaper (lower grade) oils, the addition of Liquid Moly might actually improve its performance. Pure Molybdenum is actually quite expensive in relation to other additives, which is why some lower grade cheap oils might contain either none or very little compared to say an Amsoil Signature Synthetic. Moly is actually a solid, if you can zoom in enough it looks like horizontal plates, that slide on each other, which is what gives it a lot of lubricity. It can take a lot of horizontal (frictional force). It can’t take a lot of compressive force, the plates will just slide out of the way and allow metal on metal contact, that’s why it needs to be suspended in oil with other additives to maintain compressive strength. Oil and additives is a complicated subject, that requires a balancing act depending on application. I think this one is a good candidate for retesting: say a low grade motor oil, then test the same oil with Liquid Moly added. Also, maybe try the bearing test with various weight applied (a few with low grade oil, then a few with Liquid Moly). Just a suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm This is not fair test. First you did not use quantity of additive recommended it is usually the whole can for engines up to 2000cc or could have used at least half or quarter for small engine. Liquid molybdenum was used by Germans during the ww2 in their airplane engines and that was as protection in case engine gets punctured(...) and stays without oil, so that it can make it back to the airfield without stalling. Plus it has exceptional anti friction properties and is able to form ultra thin layer (atomic) of metal on both Surfaces filing up small scratches on Surfaces.
I think you did a very good joob testing. The only problem is see is that you only add a small amount of that stuff and most of it sticked on the walls of that funnel instead of flowing down into the engine. Maybe premix with oil and then do a full oil change.
This one is pretty hard, i use it in race applications where loads and temperatures are completely different to what a briggs and strat or cold lubricity tester can replicate. We also use it in situations to help where oil starvation is possible, using it here where the engine is never starved doesn't make a lot of sense. Personally to test this i'd 2 engines side by side brand new, run one with just oil, one with oil and mos2, drain the majority of the oil (except for a tiny amount at the bottom) and see which one lasts before it dies. You might see more of the benefits of MOS2 then.
Project farm: MoS2 does in fact make a slight difference in fuel economy, but at the decimal point level. In my personal experience, this product is for extending engine life under severe use, while under automotive-level film pressure, not under passive sling lubrication in a small engine. It works by smoothing out cylinder walls by filling irregularities in at the microscopic level, and it generally takes 1000 miles of driving to bed-in. But the drawback to this is when you run it in an older engine with wear, your oil will be too slick for your valve seals, and tends to slip past and foul spark plugs. So if your older car starts misfiring after adding this, that might be the reason. Your video was still entertaining.
If you are experiencing decimal point difference in fuel economy that could very well be just from driving up and down a few more hills or hitting more red lights. I wouldnt feel comfortable saying a product is responsible for such a tiny improvement/discrepancy. I got better gas mileage this week driving to work compared to last week.Only difference was i filled up at a cheap gas place and not my usual Shell. But i'm not going to say the cheap gas place had better gas.
And how does it smooths out the cylynder walls? It grows the metal? Or grows some sort of goo that is covering everything inside engine not only micro iregularities? :D
To the best of my understanding it is classified as a transitional metal. It It a very fine form in the micron size. I think it is supposed to attach itself and build up as a film both in the high wear areas and irregularities. Now If it actually does that I have no idea. All I know is Molybdenum disulfide itself it some really good stuff and this seemed like a good way to get some in an engine. I put 1 can in my wifes van and it seems like its running a little better and quieted noise a little. I'm gonna give it 2 treatments total, one with the next oil change and see if it improves mileage, by showing improvement in MPG. We use a phone app to log fuel every fill up for over a year now so we have a good baseline.
Years ago when Tecumseh engines were common every time I changed the oil in one, the oil was very metallic. In other words the 30w oil wasn't really working that well. I started adding 1/4 cup of STP. It definately reduced the metallic wear visible in the oil. Not sure an rpm increase is to be expected. Makes sense that it would though.
My dad introduced me to moly additives and I’ve been using them for over 30 years. I’ve used Liquimoly MoS2 additive for the last 15 or so years and it’s made my engines smoother, quieter, and slightly better mileage.
You should try mixing all the fuel additives you've used over time, like seafoam, mystery oil, and other ones you've tested before and run the engine on them, how good will all the cleaners clean.
Don’t ever doubt yourself... you ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS do an awesome job testing these things. I think I speak on behalf of everyone who follows your channel, we trust your tests more than any of them “scientists” in labs filling their pockets with cash for bogus product claims. Keep doing what you’re doing. Still the best channel on RUclips!
But he´s testing a 4 Stroke treatment for older engines on a 2 Stroke that it wasn´t designed for! That is not awesome , that is damaging to the Company!
Your testing always are very thorough and well done. The molybdenum additves take time to wear in and adhere to the surfaces where the high stress and temp loads are. The head and cylinder/piston shots, original cleaned then after both runs, would have been nice to see comparison of those, that would have involved clean, run, pic, clean, run, pic. I've seen tests where it did quiet noisy lifters after oil and filter change and a run in of aprox. 500 miles. It seems to not be an instant fix but one that does work.
Exactly, I also solved a problem of noisy hydraulic lifters, in 500 miles of use the noise disappeared and the engine was silent with the Liqui Moly Oil Additive with MOS2.
Removing the governor was pretty much a similar method that I used on my 79 VW GTI with fuel injection when I tested whether the same claims made by Duralube were true. Engine idle had to be backed down by nearly 450 RPM after adding the Duralube engine oil treatment. The fuel economy also went from 460kms per tank to 545kms per tank over a 6 month period that I had also been keeping records for three years before I added the Duralube one day. Unless the Duralube formula has changed since 1993, I would trust it. FYI, I also use a lot of LubroMoly products so I am not biased in anyway.
As I know the company and products for a long time, I'm sure they are testing their products as well. The data sheets are based on their own results. The reputation of Liqui Moly is very good. I think that maybe not enough Mo2 got into the oil, as it is quite sticky and a lot of it remained on the funnel. Moreover it shall show effects over long term use. Nevertheless I like your efforts and tests. Thanks for your work! Do you an "IMPRESSIVE" job.
Another informative piece of work! I bought Motorkote based on a previous video that you did on that product. While I was looking at the comments section on Amazon ( where I purchased my motorkote) I noticed a lot of people were commenting on that they were also buying based on your video. BTW...motorkote is giving me about 1.7 more MPG on my hemi 5.7.
I've been using Liqui Moly products for years now. Mos2 and Ceratek have given me a 1 to 2 mpg average increase. I've used their Motor Oil Saver addative to stop a rear main leak I had on an old Benz. I've used their power steering leak addative that stopped a leak on a steering rack on a bmw I had for a while. Great company and great products
This is a great test and I love how throurough you are. However I still believe in this stuff. Even after a couple oil changes you can still see it in the engine as it bonds to the metal. I dont know about it taking x amount of time to wear in. I think this was built for more complex engines than a lawn mower is all. So it would be great at lubricating overhead cam shafts and all that
Testing oil additives on the bearing test without being mixed in oil is not a good test for additives. They are not designed to be used alone, but mixed with oil. When doing this test, you should test oil alone, then oil mixed with the additive, not the additive by itself. :-)
Yes, I agree. However, additives added to base oil can have an effect, potentially a negative effect, on oil "additives" you put in (anything added to the oil, whether treating the oil or metal, is still an oil "additive"). The compatibility of the OEM oil additives with what we add to it is unknown. For instance, it is believed that some over-the-counter additives can make oil too acidic. Or perhaps some other negative reaction (foaming, gelling, crystallizing, thinning, thickening, etc.) Now with that said, you wouldn't run an engine on just MotorKote or any other additive. So how it protects the engine (or bearing) is better known by using as directed. The stuff might look spectacular by itself, but might not do a thing once mixed. :-)
the problem we are having with the new engines is they run hotter and they are carbon packing killing the piston rings if you can add anything that treats the metal that is an improvement but I understand your concerns I don't want to mess with anything that will cause damage over time, Motorkote is the only product that I have seen that works and lives up to it's claims, I have tested a lot of other products that change the Viscosity of the oil - which you think would be good BUT it could prevent the oil from getting where it is needed most. Motorkote is using the oil as a vehicle to treat the metal reducing the friction, the way I use Motorkote is I get an PM oil change after everything is done I add 1/3 of a gallon on top the oil - I only add Motorkote every other oil change.
Lots of snake oil sales out there. This may be a long term engine life improver but as you stated, it doesn't say that. I really enjoy you videos and appreciate the hands on testing that cuts to the basics!
Yea I’ve ran Mos2 in all my cars, and it does reduce engine noise , which I think relates to friction. I generally run Castrol 5-30, MoS2 and I run a full tank of shell premium and engine runs smooth as butter
Good video. I appreciate that you pointed out that there may be better ways to test this product and that different running environments might produce different results. That's the scientific way..."under the circumstances applied"... Love your videos!
I think these things are a scam. Anything that says "Increases fuel economy" and is a product major car manufacturer's are NOT already using, especially when it comes in a $5.00 can is total BS. Car companies are going all out to squeeze every MPG they can to put that into their sales pitch. If this stuff worked, it would be OEM.
yep , magnets of fuel lines, spiral things that went inside carbs, and then moly on oil, slick 50 went out of business as they were proved they were false claims, but others still persist. they already put the good stuff in the oil, thats the job of the oil company, they know their job
I agree it's likely a cost effective thing. For example, ruclips.net/video/0x1546Jetjs/видео.html in his dura lube video it did seem to make a small positive difference from that single test.
MoS2 is the last thing amongst all the additives that I would have considered as snake oil. Personally, I had great results with MoS2, but with a different product. I used Molykote MoS2 20W50 motor oil from 40 years ago, that stuff is no longer produced. Worked great in my vintage air cooled engines. They ran sgnificantly quieter and smoother with that oil, had increased compression, and worn, scared surfaces got smoothed out visibly. Those are the only factors I care about, I didn´t test fuel efficiency or power.
👍 for all your work. I would like you to test the following:- 1). Cracked windscreen repair kits 2). Scratch removal from glass products 3). Which oil is best for VW aircooled engines 4). Engine flush products 5). Do neodymium magnets on an oil filter help Thank you
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I love how thorough he is in his testing. I feel like he spends hours going over his methodology looking for flaws. Such diligence, much respect.
Thanks!
This is one of the only channels on youtube that actually makes me feel like i might use this information one day
“Thorough” is assumed here
I agree and you can change "through," incorrect, to "thorough," which is correct, by pressing on the three dots on the upper right of your comment and selecting "edit."
How about bardahl b1 engine treatment?
I have a 1985 Mercedes 190D, diesel with 800k miles. The engine and injection pump are original and have never been opened. I recently noticed a lifter tic from the hydraulic lifters. It was becoming constant. Not going away after warm up but continued long after. Power was noticeably down on this little 2.2 liter, non turbocharged engine. After watching this video, I applied Liquimoly. The tic disappeared and stayed away. Engine power came up and is noticeable.
Thank you for your efforts in producing these videos.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Yes similarly on my 300D.worked very well
Wow! Brings back memories for me!! Back in the 1970's my father and his best friend bought into, and were selling a motor oil called "Moly Black Gold " motor oil. They even had a dirt modified stock car with the logo on it. My father had a 1970 Ford pinto that he used to show how well the oil preformed. He would meet up with a prospective buyer, usually at a diner, and drain the oil from the car. He would leave the oil in a container there,, and hand the oil plug to the person; they would drive 25 miles, turn around and then 25 miles back. Dad did this for a few years!!! Unfortunately, one day, one of the "oil giants " purchased the rights to the oil, and on the shelf, away from the public it went. The oil looked like used drain oil, lol. It had Molybdenum Disulphide in it. It also bolstered it would last 20,000 miles between oil changes (and that was in the '70's)! We had so much of it around, I used it in my 1972 SS454 Elcamino and at 403k miles had to stop driving it because of body rot. It still ran!!
Thanks for another great video!!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I use the stuff for long-term wear reduction... the MoS2 protects engine parts when they are dry during startup. A better test of wear would be to coat the test bearings and then remove the lube supply. Or run two motors to failure without oil, after running one for a while with MoS2.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm Dry? Really?
Great review, thanks
30 years ago I was developing & testing solenoid valves. I would run a bank of valves simulatiously in an environmental chamber. We also tested various lubricants in the course of life tests (very loud!!!). Our ideal lube turned out to be a blend of Mobil One (5w-20), Marvel Mystery Oil and MolyKote ( Molybdenum DiSulfide ). The Moly would empack into the wear striations in the softer material; in our case it was the cylinder wall of the plastic bobbins. The magic blend would enable valves to exceed 200 million cycles versus 50 million for any other lube. Surprisingly, iwe put the moly blend in solenoids (previously with inferior lube) that died at ~50 Mm cycles and they would continue to run for an other 100-200 MM cycles.
I've been putting this blend in my SAABs & Volvos resulting in life spans of 230k - 265k miles.
From my experience the added Moly requires many more piston cycles to make an observable difference.
I added the blend directly into the cylinders and ran them for a while without the plugs ( make sure you pull out the fuel pump fuse first!). I will try this Liqui Moly oil additive as well in my two SAAB 9-3s (182k & 92k miles) ...I'll report back in another 100k miles!
Thanks for sharing.
any updates?
My 2008 SAAB 9-3 2.0T SportCombi @107k miles (purchased @90k miles) got its first treatment @92k so it’s due for a treatment using the chemistry mentioned above. I need to do another intake valve cleaning as well (effects of GDI engines). This vehicle has yet to have its defective valves replaced (see links below) so it needs an extended warmup before driving …I try not to push the engine revs above 4500 rpm so to prolong the inevitable $2k-$3k cost of valve replacement.
I don’t have a bore scope anymore so I’ll do an initial compression test (1); clean the intake …bypassing the Ox Sensor); perform Post cleaning test (2); add Moly Mix directly to each cylinder; run engine until warm; final compression test (3). My previous cold test results were 60,60,59,60 psi as a baseline.
More later.
I'd be interested in hearing the results as well
@@markettlinger6842 Based on your good results, I might start using a modified version of this treatment full time in my engine. My 130,000 mile Subaru Forester XT Turbo is starting to consume oil from suspected coked rings as per my independent Subaru specialist mechanic. It takes 5 quarts normally. At the last oil change, I decided to put in 5 quarts of LiquiMoly MoS2. I wonder if it would be safe to run a mixture ratio of 1 Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to 4 Quarts of the LiquiMoly MoS2 at my next oil change? I wonder if it'd be safe to run this hypothetical mixture for the full 3,750 miles oil change interval? Thanks for sharing your solenoid testing results, that was very interesting.
I've been using Moly additive with every oil change in Cummins diesel engine for over 20 yrs.
Not sure if it's " cost effective " and can't say if it has improved fuel mileage but am confident it has big improvements for cold weather starts.
The 5.9 engine is still running strong after 20 years.
Thanks for sharing.
It’s running strong after 20 years simply because it’s a Cummins
@@SyphADL87 I mean no, I’ve owned many Cummins trucks and worked in them a lot, from the looks of your name it would apear your a “subie” guy
@@Tony_Seed Yeah I'd disregard what the Subie guy says.😂
@@SyphADL87 im sure you definitely dont.
It's worth bearing in mind Molybdenum diSulphide is actually solid and it's suspended in various fluids in all these additives. The particle size is 1 - 5 micron and whilst it has an incredibly low friction co-efficient the two main problems with the material are the wear it can cause too softer materials (such as steel) and finding a medium which ensures it stays on the surface of what actually needs lubricating.
I worked in a factory that made it many years ago and we had great fun throwing a handful of it on the ground and seeing the various skids and doughnuts a forklift truck could do.
@@Lorin-GabrielLeaua-fm1lwwhat brand of ceramic did u use?
@@Lorin-GabrielLeaua-fm1lw hex boron is ceramic isn't it?
Been using moly oil additives since the 1980s when my first car was given to me free. It was a straight-6 Datsun 810 which only fired on 4 of 6 cylinders. Prior owner never changed oil and after 120K the rings were shot. Got AutoMoly from JC Whitney mailorder. I was using 20W-50 Valvolene and had to change the oil every 200 miles as it would over fill with gas and very low viscosity. Changed oil and filter, started car and added an 8oz bottle of AutoMoly while the engine was running. Before the bottle was empty the 5th and 6th cylinders kicked in. It took about 1,000 miles before the moly effects were fully in. After that the engine would start right up. The 20-W 50 oil would last 5000 miles and it ran like there was never problem. Ran fine for years until it got totaled.
I don't consider the lubricity test valid as Moly requires heat and pressure to bond to metal and that was a simple low temperature friction test. The engine tests require longer runs. Try the test with a low-pressure, scored cylinder and see how it works.
Thanks for the video idea.
JC Whitney, oh my I had forgotten all about that with the age of online shopping. That was a real flashback 👍
Thanks
Hmmmmmmm
where can i get the AutoMoly that u mentioned? thanks in advance.
Your willingness to test the products used by regular people help us to make informed choices at the checkout line. Thank you for all of your hard work
You are so welcome!
He does work hard too! The head tear down and cleaning alone is over the top. You gotta love his attention to detail.
I have tried both MoS2 and Ceratec from Liqui Moly, I didn't measure fuel economies as I tested these in my weekend vehicle. But I have noticed a very clear difference in engine sound, especially when the engine is cold with MoS2. I tried MoS2 first with one oil change and I noticed the difference in engine sound immediately and during the next oil change I pour Ceratec and cold engine sound was louder. Then again next oil change I have added MoS2 again and cold engine sound was reduced immediately. My vehicle is Mitsubishi Pajero Gen2 with 4M40 Turbo Charged 2.8 L Diesel engine
Thanks for the feedback.
Hey man a bit late but I have the same engine in a 2002 triton. Do you notice the diesel “rattles” less with Mos2? Mine is 200k kms never rebuild it. Also want to put it in a 1KD Fortuner as well.
@@zushi88 Yes it reduced the rattling in my 4M40
I would like you to test different types of radiator stop leak, maybe use an engine water pump and a clear container with a hole in it and see how good and how fast it works, also what effect it has on the pump, and afterwards you can pressurize the container and see how much pressure it will hold. :)
Thank you for this recommendation!
Let’s try the egg trick with it as well.
david tappe I've personally tried both the egg trick and black pepper and they both worked quite well for me as a temporary fix.
i'd like to see this too.
Egg and black pepper both work well, however you cannot pressurize the system, so eventually your water boils off. It will get you home in a pinch, but its not a permanent fix.
Only one thing I would say is in the video I didn’t see him do like a brand new oil change with the lawnmower or the generator and the liquid. Molly requires a fresh oil change to be added so it’s supposed to be added to fresh oil not already used oil And that might be the reason why he didn’t see a change now I’m not dissing him in any way shape form, I watch his videos. I love his videos. He gives really really good advice, and the proxy tests are really really good especially most of these tests. That’s my only group with this videos that I didn’t see him do a fresh oil change when he added the additive into the oil now that may or may not make a difference, but also in my own personal aspect of things when I use oil additives, especially stuff like this, I would always add it with fresh oil if not, I would take the oil, just the regular regular oil without any additives or anything like that add to my filter pre-oil the filter and then add a little bit of the additive into the filter with the regular oil slap it on there and then I fill up my engine I do the additive in there first and then I do the normal oil without the additive so add already in there with the filter and the oil and additive and then the oil and I have seen a huge change cause I use this in my in my truck and it’s a 318 magnum block and a 99 ram 1500 And I’ve saw and I’ve seen and I felt a lot of improvement right now I am doing a motor treatment with the liquid Molly and the surcoat stuff. I’m doing the surcoat for two oil changes back to back and do the oil MOS2 again here soon next oil change I have 700+ miles about 760 miles left before my next oil change but overall I have seen a great improvement now. I have use the Lucas oil treatment as well but when I found out that liquid, Molly makes it for the heavy duty trucks which I know is not a heavy duty truck, but I did buy it and purchase it and put it in my truck and I have noticed a huge difference as well but I just been sticking with the MOS too And it has it has improved with the throttle response performance and everything else. Also with the looking Molly oil treatment. I’m also using the liquid Molly fuel treatment as well to keep that stuff clean. I’m using the professional pro line fuel treatment in. For best results
I love these videos. You come up with some pretty thorough tests for these products. Also pretty fair and balanced. Thanks for making them and please keep doing it.
Thank you very much!
Dsdcain I agree. They are thorough
Many thanks to Todd and his great thorough tests. I like it that all his engines are electrically started.
@--cLAsic-- what random bs is this?
Most of the engines wear happens when you start the enigne, especially when its cold. No oil pressure and nearly metal-metal friction. This is where MOS ensures that the metal-metal friction is low. That's where MOS reduces significantly the friction. If the car manufactures would add a small tiny electric oil-pump which would ensure that during the start phase the oil pressure is up, there would be no need for MOS. But then engines would last longer - a horror for the manufacturers, thus no extra pump. Another advantage : if you run out of oil it may keep the engine longer alife as MOS still reduces friction a bit longer.
Thanks for the feedback.
So is this a plug for Moly or... Is it a plug for any material LIKE Liquid Moly that puts a "plate" coating over the metal?
how can MoS make it less friction when it's not even flowing at cold? :D compared to normal 10w40 its like glue.
@@ALINUED it coats the metal
Mr Herman, they DO actually make such a device for automotive engines, it's called a Pre-oiler system, allows you to pump the oil inside the engine by flicking a switch, before you start it. The system costs around $200.
This video is 3 years old by now but in my experience the advantage when using liquid Moly is in the event an engine runs low on oil or no oil at all. Molybdenum used as an additive would allow the engine to run dry for an additional period of time without permanent damage
Thanks for the feedback!
Why would anyone who owns a rag let their engine run out of oil? Other than classic oil burning Hyundai/Kia owners of course.
@@chrismemphis8062 You forgot about dry startups,oil burners and leakers.
Your thought process and thoroughness in all your reviews are beyond reproach! There is no one else on the internet that does deeper and fair, honest examinations on products than you. I watch your reviews even if I don’t need the product because they’re fascinating to watch. Thanks again for all your efforts!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I had valve knocking upon starting my chevy 6.0 engine for ages. I tried everything, then I bought this liquid molly, and it actually worked. it removed all that knocking, and made the engine run much smoother. I wouldn't have believed it but it worked!
Impressive!
I put it in my duramax and my lx570
You were hearing piston slap. All LS style engines do that on cold start once the piston skirtcoating wears off. Doesnt hurt anything. Just sound bad on cold starts.
U should to clean your valves with BG-109.
Was the knocking from pre-ingition or poor circulation?
I put this in my 2006 BMW 325i and it brought new life and power to my engine!
Thanks for commenting on this!
Moly has to "plate" to be effective. In other words, you have to let it run on the friction machine a minute or two before adding pressure. I worked as a sales rep for Schaeffer oil company.
Thanks for the feedback.
THAT OIL COMPANY HAS A VERY GOOD OIL...
@@ProjectFarm Your video is very unfair on this company! It is not made for 2 Stroke Engines!
@@gaptaxi neither one of those engines were 2 strokes
A friend of mine is a Schaeffer salesman and he turned me on to the 9000 motor oil. I like it and think it a very good oil.
I first stumbled on your synthetic motor oil test where Amsoil was clearly the best. As a Mechanic Designer & formerly ASE Mechanic, I found your test methods complete and unbiased. Been using their motor oil ever since. I recently had to change the Dual Clutch transmission fluid on my Mk6 GTI. I found that Ligui-Moly was about half the price of Amsoil and came highly recommended. So, instead of paying ~ $75 for LM, I spent ~125 with my Amsoil membership. Thanks for helping me feel confident while Auto-Crossing and Track use. Great job! Yes, it cost more money, but for longevity & performance. it's worth it. I'm not compensated for using Amsoil.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
MoS2 is great for reducing engine vibrations, tbh.
Lower friction means lower heat & lower metal to metal contact.
Always love Todd's content but i think that the additive should've been mixed with oil for the lubricity test! 👍
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
hello. I dont know if you will respond after two years but I agree about comparing oil and just the mos2. I mean the additive should not seen as just an oil replacement.
I'm using Liqui Moly 10w 40 in my car with MOS2 directly added to the oil and actually have seen no difference in fuel comsumption and neither in vibration or engine temperature. But I prefer this oil with mos2 additive in order to stop or reduce oil loss as my car has began to suffer worn out valve seals and head cover gasket which causes oil to enter the combustion chamber and burn. I could see oil burn smoke out of the exhaust especially when stalled the engine for short breaks with standard oils but now with mos2 added oil, cant see a smoke any more. And the loss is reduced I guess as it takes longer range for the computer to warn for oil level. It warns when the level goes down about 200-250 ml and I add and continue. I used to have this warn earlier in standard oils. I guess this additive works for a bit longer durance than less friction.
Project farms has tested many oil additives. He always does the just oil additive test and for example. Bestline left barley any mark while it stood alone and vastly reduced the water on the bearing mixed with Pennzoil platinum compared to P.P alone.
@@kevinc4325All that miracle friction reducing stuff has chlorinated paraffin in it. You don't want it. Trust me. It turns acidic.
The origin of this product was in WW2, when Rommel's tanks in Africa had difficults to get oil supply and the germans sent molibden in powder and put it with WATER in the engines, and worked. Later, Fangio tested a car that was filled with regular oil + liqui moly, then drained all the oil and without any lubricant except the protective molibden film left , drove the car 160 km at high speed in the Buenos Aires Autodromo. After inspection, the engine had no damage at all. Since then I use it in every vehicle I've had. My fist was a Ducati bike, and when our bikers group inspected our engines, mine always was in the best conditions, no signs of wear.
The principle is that the molibden particles adeheres ONLY in the parts where more friction are, forming a physical shield in the (rare) event that oil fail to lubricate. Specially on engine cold starts.
So, is an extra protection with no cons and cheap.
BTW I have never need any kind of engine repair in my long life.
Thank you!
neither me,, my engine works as new...i never put the qautioties they say to put, use less, put i put in evryoil changes.
even oil brands used MOS2 in theyr products but stoped using cause poeple didn´t respect the correct use (not every oil change) so it forms residious on the metal. But sure it works and has passed thousands of tests made in decades. And sure it isn´t a miracle, it protects better than oil, nothing more or less.
Lobo Estepario can you provide sources for either of those anecdotes?
MOS2 would only help with boundary lubrication, which shouldn't really happen in a well designed engine. It is a good compound in some applications where boundary lubrication is expected, like in CV joints, but probably won't do anything in an engine where there should be very little or no boundary lubrication. I have a PhD in Tribology and Experimental Mechanics.
I have used LiquiMoly Mos2 in all of my cars (old and new) for years and I notice a lot smoother and quieter engine action.
Over time, the Mos2 will work itself into the surfaces which are exposed to friction.
It was used by WWII bomber technicians to create emergency running capabilities in the engines when oil was lost due to hits taken.
Some people treat the actions and rifling of their weapons with Molybdenum in order to reduce friction.
The main property of Mos2 is its increasing viscosity under pressure. So where the pressure/friction is most vigorous, the lubrication effect of Mos2 is the highest in a mechanical system.
I would always recommend using it long term if you want to treat your engine right. :-)
Thanks for the constructive feedback
@@ProjectFarm Thanks for all of your great videos, I enjoy watching them very much. G-d bless
That’s good info
Is this ok to use Liqui Moli oil additive MOS2 in new R18 Honda engine which already in smooth and perfect condition....and without any need and recommendation...just for more better performance ????
And is this ok to use with any other moto oil or only with liquimoli engine oil...
Please guide
@@AliKhan-ml8lh You should do exactly what the manufacturer recommends in the owners manual. This is how your engine was developed and proven reliable.
I have a Ford fusion 2.3L (2007) I was convinced was about to blow up because it sounded bad for 10-20 minutes after startup. I decided to toss the mos2 in as a hail Mary. It took about 200 miles before I began to notice a difference in the sound of the engine. After 1000 miles the engine sounded like new and the grayness of the oil had disappeared. I feel that this additive saved the engine to die another day. I am about to change the oil after 6,000 miles and I will be adding half a bottle of this stuff for maintenance. I am a believer in it. I actually watched this video before deciding to try it, but I had heard that it takes time to work prior.
I really love how thorough and scientific you are in your tests! One critique I have (as others may have pointed out) is that this additive acts as a sacrificial plating similar to zddp or lead, and it doesn't work as well as any decent motor oil as a liquid lubricant. Where it excels is with cam wear and in situations of oil loss. I noticed a significant drop in valve tappet noise (I've got an S60R that has solid tappets) after adding this molybdenum package to my oil. Finally enough, running an oil that is marked as European as seems to reduce that volume as well. Still loved the test and I'm always happy to see new videos in my feed!
Thanks!
Engine wear is very high when starting from cold when all the oil is in the crankcase. Moly and teflon additives tend to stay in the bearings and provide lubrication during starting, reducing wear. Testing with radioactive trace elements has shown this. Normal running is little affected as these tests show.
Thank you!
citation please
How do you know that the regular oil doesn't stay in the berings?
It does!
@@montiacpontana41 in most engines they do. Small engines more than likely not. However in vehicles that have an oil filter screw on type, there is a diaphragm inside that is made of cellulose compound that has a spring behind it, set to the standard for that oil filter. When the engine shuts off as soon as the oil pressure drops below around 6psi for your standard Toyota or honda 4 cylinder, the diaphragm shuts holding all the oil in the valleys. This allows the oil to be immediately available to the engines bearings during cranking and startup. Pressure builds during cranking and while running, but flow is immediate (Excessive damage does not occur during cranking or running when first running because the clearances are higher due to being cold AND because the motor has no load on it besides the weight of the rotating assembly and flywheel/converter+Flexplate and compression of the pistons, there is not enough load to press the flowing oil entirely out of a journal bearing. There will be a small film of oil remaining and constantly being flushed with new material during startup.
The wear is low enough that starting up the engine isn't really going to lower engine life. But vehicles that do that auto start stop "feature" are prone to premature engine failure from lack of lubrication. That and they have been proven to consume a lot more fuel doing this. (not because of the technical functionality of that feature, but because it causes the driver to drive more aggressively from a stop. Consuming the fuel they would have saved if they would have started and stopped their cars on their own term, or just left the vehicle running.)
@@screener545 thank you for your answer. I know that.
You should consider writing a book.
This Mos2 shooter actually works...... i startred using it since past 1 year trust me...... it does makes a significant difference in overall experience from the engine.....
Thank you for the feedback!
Literally one of the best channels ive found. So thorough and so simple and straightforward. Not trying to say or prove something, simply showing us the results and letting us all learn together. Please dont stop doing your thing man. Hats off to you
Thanks for the feedback.
I have a concern with using additives by themselves on the lubricity tester. As I see you do that sometimes.
It's possible an additive is designed to interact with and enhance the oil, but not have any impact on its own.
I don't know that for certain and it's not a criticism, just a thought I've had for a while. Just to ensure it isn't impacting any results
I know your comment is years old I agree, a proper test would of been using it as a additive in the oil as liqui moly intended. That would of been cool to see. I own a newer mustang and 💯 it quiets the ticking down. I love it been using it for years.
Any measurable reduction in friction would have also caused a reduction in fuel consumption... And it clearly didn't.
ye , he does that a lot,,,kinda confuse me
@@shane250 that's not necessarily how things work
@@CozyKG
Well, thermodynamically, it must be. Energy in equals energy out. Less friction means less energy transformed from rotational to friction, which leaves more energy in the system (fuel), unless that additive somehow created more vibration or more heat instead, but these are both usually a product of friction as well... So unlikely.
You need to give some time/run to the additive to cover the internal surface and start working. It's not a fuel additive that will show you instant results with fuel burn. It will be interesting to see how the additive perform after certain running in.
Other products have.
It takes 500 miles of driving for Moly to start working. I also treated the Transmission oil in my Z3 with 5speed manual with moly. Smoother shifting.
Thanks for commenting.
I bought my 1979 British Leyland Sherpa in 1986. It had play in the steering of about 75mm/3 inches measured at the rim of the steering wheel. I bought a Haynes workshop manual that explained among other things how to adjust the steering box. I was able to adjust it to zero play without increasing friction. I also added Molyslip additive to the oil in the steering box. After well over 100,000 miles the steering still has no play and is a delight to use. It feels much better than modern vehicles that have power steering.
Thanks for sharing.
It's named Lubri-plate because moly naturally adheres to worn metal to create a slippery surface. I've only used it when compounded in a n axle bearing grease (wheel bearings, u-joints, driveshaft splines) and as an additive for gear lubricants for manual transmissions to help the gears slide easier on the shaft splines.
Blowing smoke on it would work just the same.
Sounds like a great way to ruin syncronizers if the manual transmission is synchronized
I've used this Additive for my 1962 Chevrolet Nova for years and the I'll changes are less often. So for my experience. It works. Thx for this video. Chao
Thank you for commenting!
The fact that you used a long time it doesn't mean it works... You can buy snakeoil forever.
john handcock The fact that I am a classic muscle car user and it takes me more time to fix mistakes I make with the car since it’s “classic” , yes I can say it works and I’ve used it for a few years.
not evidence
I use it on back spot facing tool holders instead of grease. It reduces wear on the bar better than grease, without the mess of grease.
I also use it on the drawer slides of one of my Kennedy boxes that has all of the heavy items in it. It will get to where it won't slide at all, I'll spray it with moly, and it will open and close like it's empty. Lasts quite a while.
Also, it's the best for the cam pin in turning and boring insert holders if you can't run coolant. Never seize collects scale and burns into a rusty mess. The moly will last quite a few heat cycles, even if the insert is glowing red.
Thanks for sharing.
My previous car was a Toyota Land Cruiser Diesel, it did just over 500000Km's without overhaul, and the bottom was in great condition when they did a minor overhaul on the top end with new valve stem seals, cleaning and refinish the valves and ultrasonic clean of injectors.
Engine has never had any additives since new and I used the same Mobile Delvac XHP Synthetic 10W-40 oil, changed oil and filter every 20000km's.
That car now have just over 650000km's with the current owner, living in harsh winter climate in northern Sweden.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
My pleasure! Thanks for supporting the channel!
Made rocket engine components and moly powder was used extensively on tight heat shrink fits. Disassembly yielded little to no galling or burring leaving the parts almost brand new and maybe a quick stoning to bring them back to perfection. I’ve been a big fan of moly since. Thanks for the testing my dude!
You are welcome!
I think your tests were spot on, honest, and accurate. I was really hoping they would turn out with different results. A lot of modern engines, particularly Chrysler and GM seem to have issues with cams and lifters failing - arguably due to poor lubrication - and I'm always looking for products that will keep the tick away. I've had good luck (seemingly but I haven't done testing like you) with Lucas oil treatment and Fuel Ox Friction Eliminator
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
High zinc oil is good for cam wear.
Added it to my truck engine today, became quieter and smoother. This happened almost instantly, had kinda forgotten about LiquiMoly, used in back in the 80's in Germany.
nice!
@@ProjectFarm Of course I have no data as too long term benefits, it did make the engine quieter. Not that it was loud to begin with it is a healthy engine. If I remember I'll update in a few tankfuls.
Ok.Update: fuel consumption has improved from average 15mpg to 16.5 to a best of 17. Noise doesn't seem to have changed but then again I have hearing loss. Is it worth the money I don't know, I guess if you drive enough.
I used the Canadian counterpart to liqui moly called moly slip on my 1970 vw bug. It did increase rpm so much I had to reduce the idle speed. It did need 500 miles of driving before this happened though, and the change in rpm was significant. I used moly slip from then on. Great stuff. Demonstrations.by the vendor showed engines lasting a long time, even when running with no oil in the crankcase.
Yes James, I used Molydyne in all my Volvos and my mother's Volvo. After a period of say the same 500 miles, my mother began noticing her Volvo was "smoother" and would ask for it when I did her oil changes. Fast forward to today and I've noticed this Motul additive has my Harley Davidson feeling smoother, a bit quieter and maybe it's a placebo effect but more responsive
You do the best work as far as thoroughness, methodology, explanations, and editing of any other review guy on RUclips hands down. You must be protected at ALL times. I speak on behalf of everyone here when I say we need you reviews lol. I look at your reviews before I buy anything I expect good results from. Keep it up sir
Wow, thanks!
Love the slo mo shot of the carburetor showing the venturi effect of the fuel. Great visual to show people how carbs work. Also I think its safe to say every engine additive / automotive products sa they will give you more MPG and HP, its like a generic blanket statement they put on everything. Id bet theres a windshield wiper manufacturer out there someone that claims it adds MPG and more HP haha
Thanks!
I have used this additive for years and it does make a difference. First off mix it in with the oil then poor that mix in. Secondly it does take time for this to work it's way into the pores of the metal. It will normally last 2 oil changes and then it will be washed out of the oil. I am a mechanic for 10+ yrs. At first I thought it was a waste as well but my engine actually ran smoother and smoother. It took about a week for me to notice it in my vehicle.
Thanks for sharing.
I think this additive need more time to work because the molybdenum disulfide needs time to be ground up .
In more expencive tools like HILTI the use a molybdenum disulfide grease and this needs to be ground up by the gears to be effective .
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Molybond use to recommend 5% to 10 % to oil and over 2 Oil changes to get the best results.
I agree it needs time to work...in motorcycles it kicks into action after around a 100kms.
Perfectly right, but Hilti do not use 1.5%, they use nearly 100% Molybdenum Disulfide. :-)
@@friedmule5403 .. No, you'll find the greases used contain only a few percent molybdenum disulfide. It's an additive, to what is otherwise merely lithium grease.
Love this channel. You’re definitely saving me money and ease of mind dispelling myths and rumors.
1. Could you run an engine on Kerosene?
2. Could you see how well graphite works as a crankcase lubricant?
3. Could you make some kind of poll system so your audience can vote on what additive/fuel/product you test next for future videos? I have seen other RUclipsrs have interactive polls within their RUclips videos where viewers can vote. Great video, Thanks!
These are all great recommendations. I'll look into setting up an interactive poll.
Project Farm Awesome! I love your dedication and hard work you put into your channel and videos. Thank you!
I think a poll would be great. That way we can vote on what we want to see next.
I don't think it would work. Engines, especially air cooled engines, need a liquid to remove the heat from internal components. Even if the engine was lubricated very well, it would still overheat very quickly and self destruct with no cooling.
Could you test gasoline with the normal 10% ethanol vs ethanol free gasoline to see any power/heat/efficiency different?
5yr old Video & I still see you replying to the comments!
I am a new content creator, You and your work has shaped how I try to interact with my community. Thank you!
You are welcome and best to you in your content creator.
You put a lot of thought and effort into the testing and I appreciate that.
Once again, you come up with what I think is a very reliable test! Awesome!
Thank you!
With my personal use on my 2007 Corolla 1.5L, this additive helps to run my engine a bit quieter & soomther with lesser vibration.
Also had used their injection cleaner I must say their products works as they advertised!
Thanks for the feedback.
I have tried Liqui Moly Mos2 when I had a newer Honda. I did notice the car started much faster with moly than without. Engine drove smoother as well. I used moly residue in the can and dumped it in the lawnmower, it ran smoother as well.
Thanks for the feedback.
Subjective
@@Abercrombemonkey there is moly already in motor oil and bearing grease/assembly lubes. If it didn't work they would've added it in.
My dad was in the raf during WW2 he said raf would put molybdenum disulfide in spitfire engines he said it would protect the engine if the plane lost its oil in a dogfight long enough to get the pilot home. He put it in all off his cars he swore by it.
My Dad was in the RAF as well, super cool.
✌️&❤ from🇺🇲👍
2nd story I've heard that it could do something like this
Your DAD 🤣🤣
So you're over 70 years old? No one your age types the way you do. Stop lying, kid.
I'll call bs
I like how nice you are about saying products don’t do anything 🤣
True ;-)
..then again, lawnmower vs. car engine: it's like taking a 200grit sanded bat, and polishing it with 5000 grit paper, then claiming the bat will hit the ball farther. The bat doesn't require anything higher than 200grit to sand it to shape in baseball. However, polishing a table finish with 3000 or higher grit paper will give even a satin finished table, a mirror finish you can clearly see your face in on wood. Talking what MoS2 will do in a lawn mower engine (nothin) vs. what it does in a modern 2017 - later car engine is the SAME analogy.
@@porpo-donutI agree. His tests are scientific in repeatability, but the lawnmower engine is also running at no load as well so without a load creating added friction is a bit inconclusive. And the same could apply to a generator small engine. My uncle owns a lubricant testing facility near Detroit and there are more scientific ways to measure bearing wear and lubricant fiction, but the cost of the laboratory testing and measurement equipment is not something a RUclipsr would purchase. I myself own an Accredited Metrology Laboratory, and I am a fan and subscriber of the channel...
@@victorjbarker project farm makes a massive I INCOMES FROM MULTIPLE INCOMES HERE! HE CAN AFFORD IT💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💳💳💳💳💳💳💳💳💲💲💲💲💲💲💲💲💲💲💲
moly will protect you engine and gearboxe for sure
thye sue it on th wind mills to produce energy,, wind mills geraboxes last much more.
Excellent video! This makes sense because Molybdenum is known for being a very long lasting lubricant, like for sealed gearboxes that won't ever be serviced, so using it in an engine that has regular oil changes is not an application which take advantage of the virtues of molybdenum
Great point! Thanks for commenting on this!
As an owner of one of said sealed-transmission cars.. I think you are giving it far too much credit.
My '99 mercedes e320 is the car. Consumers now know the geqrbox vlows up about every 100k if you do, in fact, keep it sealed like they say. Proper 3rd party maintenance now includes additives every 50k, original oil though. Not even OEM knows best all of the time.
Navraj Gill I didn't necessarily mean automotive transmissions. Molybdenum is most commonly used in sealed gearboxes for industrial machinery and even power tools (like the gears that transmit power in an angle grinder or a drill) but to address your comment, maybe the thing that makes a Mercedes a Mercedes is expensive maintenance
Manguy dude
Yes sir, as someone who works in the reman/rebuild/maintenance of over the road trucks and agricultural equipment (HDA Heavy Duty America) I can attest to the molybdenum lubricants usage in sealed gearboxes. But man the residue of that stuff when you crack one open that has been in heavy long term outdoor use. It leaves an almost metal stained dense even film.
Kevin Ball that is pretty neat, I have never had the opportunity to see old moly after that kind of use so I appreciate you chiming in!
Comparing older videos (like this one) and the newest ones in conversational style - I concede you may be giving your audience exactly what they want through your present day rapid-fire narration of today, but as an aside I found this video very "conversational" and relaxing to view. (And of course very valuable - there things haven't changed.) Just an observation. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Why was the lubricity test done using straight liquid moly and not a mixture of engine oil and liquid moly? You don't run straight liquid moly in the engine. It may be designed to rely on engine oil lubrication.
I was just about to ask the same thing... :)
Not that I'm trying to defend this particular additive, mind you. IMO, they're all pretty much snake-oil, since engine-oils are rather sophisticated out of the box/bottle these days.
This. Project Farm should do a short video update for this
This stuff was designed to work over time not immediately it has to work with the oil to get worked into the micro grooves and crevices of the metal. I used a similar product and it worked but only after driving it two hundred miles.
@@jerryjamify That's interesting... what improvements did you notice?
Not really
Great job! It was a fair test and it is nice to see products that DOES NOT do what it claims to be called out as a waste of hard earned money.
Thank you!
Wut so liqui moly mos2 is waste of money?
Hi Todd, Great job on the VDO! I am familiar with the following aviation applications of molybdenum disulfide: It is used for high heat areas as an anti-seize, e.g., jet engine hot section borescope plugs (750 C / 1,382 F) and axle nuts on wheel assemblies using steel brake discs, (450 C/842 F). In the military, I saw it in spray can, (solid film lubricant), used to lubricate ejection seat rails. You can appreciate a solid film not collecting debris and dust where a wet lube, e.g., oil and grease attract debris and dust.
Subsequently, I think you were right to be suspect of its claims and think it is "Snake Oil". Why? Because it's a single additive. Today's synthetic oil additives make up anywhere from 10-30 percent. They include chemicals that act as detergents, friction modifiers, antioxidants, corrosion inhibitors and viscosity index improvers, just to name a few. So, I think you have proven their claims at MOS2 are false.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
I used MOS2 with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 and the noise and vibration was significantly reduced in my Honda Jazz 1.5 I DTEC diesel.
Even though your test did not show results, but my car has become butter smooth.
We use it in Bobcat.
We got some better consumption, but the greatest achievement is the non stop operation in summer time, which is insane from Bobcat if You drive them in hot, dusty, dirty construction fields.
An another great usage is in the gearbox of pulley lifters. Reduces the heat around the bearings with 10-20%
But here is the trick, how it’s working: add the double amount, what they telling You :)
Impressive results! Thanks for commenting on this.
I remember reading something about time and heat to get a layer stick to the walls and metals
It works even better if you just leave the can trunk. Also how about a magic rabbit's foot?
Good video. Just my opinion but since it's an oil additive, shouldn't the liquid moly be added to a 10w30 mixture for the bearing test? That way you are testing 10w30 against the product as for what it's was designed?
This is a great point. I should have mixed them for the lubricity test.
you should use chainsaw chain oil in an engine.
Well done. The stuff has no value proposition.
It'll work. It's got STP-like stuff in it!
The Molly is a standalone solid lube there can't be too much offered be the liquid carrier or much chance for reaction with standard oil.
After watching several of your videos where you evaluate products with a lawnmower engine, I had a thought. (Miraculous, I know!) The products you test make claims of gains after one tank. The tank on your mower runs for how long? I'd guess 60-90 minutes. One tank of gas in an automobile runs for 6-8 hours. Perhaps you're not giving the products enough time to accomplish what they're intended to do. Great channel, though. It's really fun to watch your tests!
MOS2 kept me from having to replace/rebuild the transmission in my 1999 BMW M3. The car went from grinding into second gear when cold, every single time, to never grinding.
Thanks for sharing.
Fun , but a true test would be engine wear over extended periods of time.
We used proma and after years of driving decided it was time for an engine rebuild but after disassembling the 318v8 we just put it all back together it had unusually little wear for a 7 year old high km motor, it sure seemed to work.
Thank you for this recommendation!
You should have put the moly in the oil when you tried it with the bearings
I agree. Oil additives should always be tested while mixed with oil.
@pedrodte nataniel Do you have a brain injury?
Agree
Agree! I noticed he is using mos2 without oil.
If the unmixed or straight up product shows no improvement what improvement do you hope to achieve by mixing it with the control product? Do you even understand the test?
I always use MOS2 when i do oil change. So far i saw some improvements (less noise from engine, hydraulic tappers cleaning, in some cases less oil consumption). Never tried Ceratec (double as price, half of oil price), but next time it's in the list.
Thanks for sharing.
You use ceratec once every 20-30k miles depending on the type of driving
On my bottle is written: Works after 1000km. MoS2 gold in ballbearings and its most effective on extreme pressures and can lubricate very good although the grease is gone. In your engine it should mostly reduce wear. Extremely high pressures should occur in the transmission.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm Thanks, lubricants are a science of their own. I think MoS2 is effective on pressures which are too high for normal grease or oil or where the oil or grease is gone. I dont know if there are places in the engine where this is the case. This is very interesting: "Ultimate Chain wax - make it yourself"
I think the test was thorough, isolated the tested variables well. But there is a chance that it may take a much larger engine with many more friction surfaces to notice a difference.
This is a great point! I think this is a good product based upon all the reviews, but I just didn't see the improvements and what you've mentioned makes sense.
Project Farm great test though, I think you can probably extrapolate the results quite a bit since you saw no improvement at all. Love the channel!
I have seen differences in my old truck 350 5.7 engine I try it after the truck was sitting for five years and I use these product and it help the engine to get back to life
11:22
I love your videos! I've been a German car technician for 18 years & I have met a few liqui moly engineers & asked them about this stuff. They said it was designed for total oil loss in an aircraft engine and help fill in tiny imperfections in bearing surfaces. If liqui moly was used along with the oil, you could lose all oil pressure but still be able to run the engine long enough to hopefully find somewhere safe to land.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Wasn't that mobil 1? Heard that story alot
I’d really enjoy a showdown between same-brand piston aviation oils. Phillips Victory 100 (straight 50wt) and Phillips X/C 20W-50 (multi grade). Basically, I’m very curious as to what the bearing test would reveal as far as wear/scoring. A few guys even run the aviation oils in air-cooled motorcycle like Harley-Davidsons and Moto Guzzis. Thanks and always appreciate your practical engineering mindset.
Thanks for the video idea.
I been using Dow Corning moly since 1970. I used it in my 73 k10 Chevy 4 x4 new truck. In the front diff, tranny, transfer case, eng. I drive it 152 k miles, the engine never burned a drop of oil, the tranny, transfer case we’re still quiet like new, the front diff too. I couldn’t put moly in the rear because of the posi clutches. I built many engines using moly paste during assembly
Thanks for sharing.
Good motor oil already contains a certain amount of molybdenum as part of its additive pack. Liquid Moly is meant to be an oil additive to raise the level of Molybdenum in your oil, not supposed to be used alone as a standalone oil replacement.
If the oil used already contains a lot of Moly in it, you might not see any difference whatsoever, however, with cheaper (lower grade) oils, the addition of Liquid Moly might actually improve its performance. Pure Molybdenum is actually quite expensive in relation to other additives, which is why some lower grade cheap oils might contain either none or very little compared to say an Amsoil Signature Synthetic.
Moly is actually a solid, if you can zoom in enough it looks like horizontal plates, that slide on each other, which is what gives it a lot of lubricity. It can take a lot of horizontal (frictional force). It can’t take a lot of compressive force, the plates will just slide out of the way and allow metal on metal contact, that’s why it needs to be suspended in oil with other additives to maintain compressive strength.
Oil and additives is a complicated subject, that requires a balancing act depending on application. I think this one is a good candidate for retesting: say a low grade motor oil, then test the same oil with Liquid Moly added. Also, maybe try the bearing test with various weight applied (a few with low grade oil, then a few with Liquid Moly). Just a suggestion.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm This is not fair test. First you did not use quantity of additive recommended it is usually the whole can for engines up to 2000cc or could have used at least half or quarter for small engine. Liquid molybdenum was used by Germans during the ww2 in their airplane engines and that was as protection in case engine gets punctured(...) and stays without oil, so that it can make it back to the airfield without stalling. Plus it has exceptional anti friction properties and is able to form ultra thin layer (atomic) of metal on both Surfaces filing up small scratches on Surfaces.
I think you did a very good joob testing. The only problem is see is that you only add a small amount of that stuff and most of it sticked on the walls of that funnel instead of flowing down into the engine. Maybe premix with oil and then do a full oil change.
Great point! Thank you for this recommendation!
it doesnt stick anywhere unless there is pressure and heat there.
so if your worried about the funneljust wash it with a little of clean oil.
The MoS2 is meant to reduce friction on the walls, when the oil film is lost, TDC and BDC, thats why they coat the pistons' sides.
Thanks for commenting on this.
The MoS2 is meant to reduce friction on the walls, when the oil film is lost, TDC and BDC, thats why they coat the pistons' sides......WITH MOLY
Because of your authentic and unbiased testing I added Resort to my oil changes. Thank you Project Farm.
You are welcome!
This one is pretty hard, i use it in race applications where loads and temperatures are completely different to what a briggs and strat or cold lubricity tester can replicate. We also use it in situations to help where oil starvation is possible, using it here where the engine is never starved doesn't make a lot of sense.
Personally to test this i'd 2 engines side by side brand new, run one with just oil, one with oil and mos2, drain the majority of the oil (except for a tiny amount at the bottom) and see which one lasts before it dies. You might see more of the benefits of MOS2 then.
Thank you
Project farm: MoS2 does in fact make a slight difference in fuel economy, but at the decimal point level. In my personal experience, this product is for extending engine life under severe use, while under automotive-level film pressure, not under passive sling lubrication in a small engine. It works by smoothing out cylinder walls by filling irregularities in at the microscopic level, and it generally takes 1000 miles of driving to bed-in. But the drawback to this is when you run it in an older engine with wear, your oil will be too slick for your valve seals, and tends to slip past and foul spark plugs. So if your older car starts misfiring after adding this, that might be the reason. Your video was still entertaining.
This is great information. Thanks for commenting!
Interesting, super helpful, putting in in my wifes van 180k miles, will keep an eye out.
If you are experiencing decimal point difference in fuel economy that could very well be just from driving up and down a few more hills or hitting more red lights. I wouldnt feel comfortable saying a product is responsible for such a tiny improvement/discrepancy. I got better gas mileage this week driving to work compared to last week.Only difference was i filled up at a cheap gas place and not my usual Shell. But i'm not going to say the cheap gas place had better gas.
And how does it smooths out the cylynder walls? It grows the metal? Or grows some sort of goo that is covering everything inside engine not only micro iregularities? :D
To the best of my understanding it is classified as a transitional metal. It It a very fine form in the micron size. I think it is supposed to attach itself and build up as a film both in the high wear areas and irregularities. Now If it actually does that I have no idea. All I know is Molybdenum disulfide itself it some really good stuff and this seemed like a good way to get some in an engine. I put 1 can in my wifes van and it seems like its running a little better and quieted noise a little. I'm gonna give it 2 treatments total, one with the next oil change and see if it improves mileage, by showing improvement in MPG. We use a phone app to log fuel every fill up for over a year now so we have a good baseline.
I have a 2012 Ford fusion w/ the 3.0 liter v-6. After adding Moly to a fresh oil change, I instantly saw a gas mileage increase of 3 miles per gallon.
No you didn’t
I've never used the product, I just really appreciate the work you do.
Thanks so much!
Years ago when Tecumseh engines were common every time I changed the oil in one, the oil was very metallic. In other words the 30w oil wasn't really working that well.
I started adding 1/4 cup of STP. It definately reduced the metallic wear visible in the oil.
Not sure an rpm increase is to be expected. Makes sense that it would though.
Thanks for the feedback.
Carb slo-mo!!! LOVE IT
Thank you!
Seriously man you are the best! , keep up the great videos
Thank you!
My dad introduced me to moly additives and I’ve been using them for over 30 years. I’ve used Liquimoly MoS2 additive for the last 15 or so years and it’s made my engines smoother, quieter, and slightly better mileage.
Thanks for sharing.
You should try mixing all the fuel additives you've used over time, like seafoam, mystery oil, and other ones you've tested before and run the engine on them, how good will all the cleaners clean.
Thank you for this recommendation!
I agree that would be cool
And all the fuels you've used exept gasoline
I think he should too. It would be cool
Don’t ever doubt yourself... you ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS do an awesome job testing these things. I think I speak on behalf of everyone who follows your channel, we trust your tests more than any of them “scientists” in labs filling their pockets with cash for bogus product claims. Keep doing what you’re doing. Still the best channel on RUclips!
Thank you very much!
But he´s testing a 4 Stroke treatment for older engines on a 2 Stroke that it wasn´t designed for!
That is not awesome , that is damaging to the Company!
LA TEEZI their* pockets you're* doing
@@stfuplsok there’s always that one guy… ok thanks Mr RUclips Grammer Check…
@@LA-TEEZI *Grammar
Your testing always are very thorough and well done. The molybdenum additves take time to wear in and adhere to the surfaces where the high stress and temp loads are. The head and cylinder/piston shots, original cleaned then after both runs, would have been nice to see comparison of those, that would have involved clean, run, pic, clean, run, pic. I've seen tests where it did quiet noisy lifters after oil and filter change and a run in of aprox. 500 miles. It seems to not be an instant fix but one that does work.
Thanks!
Exactly, I also solved a problem of noisy hydraulic lifters, in 500 miles of use the noise disappeared and the engine was silent with the Liqui Moly Oil Additive with MOS2.
Removing the governor was pretty much a similar method that I used on my 79 VW GTI with fuel injection when I tested whether the same claims made by Duralube were true. Engine idle had to be backed down by nearly 450 RPM after adding the Duralube engine oil treatment. The fuel economy also went from 460kms per tank to 545kms per tank over a 6 month period that I had also been keeping records for three years before I added the Duralube one day. Unless the Duralube formula has changed since 1993, I would trust it. FYI, I also use a lot of LubroMoly products so I am not biased in anyway.
Thanks for sharing.
As I know the company and products for a long time, I'm sure they are testing their products as well. The data sheets are based on their own results. The reputation of Liqui Moly is very good. I think that maybe not enough Mo2 got into the oil, as it is quite sticky and a lot of it remained on the funnel. Moreover it shall show effects over long term use. Nevertheless I like your efforts and tests. Thanks for your work! Do you an "IMPRESSIVE" job.
Thanks!
I have been adding Liquid Moly to my coffee every morning and have noticed it definitely smooths things out!
Thank you for the feedback
Oatmeal or prunes do the same thing!
Another informative piece of work! I bought Motorkote based on a previous video that you did on that product. While I was looking at the comments section on Amazon ( where I purchased my motorkote) I noticed a lot of people were commenting on that they were also buying based on your video. BTW...motorkote is giving me about 1.7 more MPG on my hemi 5.7.
Thank you! Thanks for the feedback.
I've been using Liqui Moly products for years now. Mos2 and Ceratek have given me a 1 to 2 mpg average increase. I've used their Motor Oil Saver addative to stop a rear main leak I had on an old Benz. I've used their power steering leak addative that stopped a leak on a steering rack on a bmw I had for a while. Great company and great products
Thanks for the feedback.
This is a great test and I love how throurough you are. However I still believe in this stuff. Even after a couple oil changes you can still see it in the engine as it bonds to the metal. I dont know about it taking x amount of time to wear in. I think this was built for more complex engines than a lawn mower is all. So it would be great at lubricating overhead cam shafts and all that
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Testing oil additives on the bearing test without being mixed in oil is not a good test for additives. They are not designed to be used alone, but mixed with oil. When doing this test, you should test oil alone, then oil mixed with the additive, not the additive by itself. :-)
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
MotorKote treats the metal not the oil motorkote.com/
Yes, I agree. However, additives added to base oil can have an effect, potentially a negative effect, on oil "additives" you put in (anything added to the oil, whether treating the oil or metal, is still an oil "additive"). The compatibility of the OEM oil additives with what we add to it is unknown. For instance, it is believed that some over-the-counter additives can make oil too acidic. Or perhaps some other negative reaction (foaming, gelling, crystallizing, thinning, thickening, etc.)
Now with that said, you wouldn't run an engine on just MotorKote or any other additive. So how it protects the engine (or bearing) is better known by using as directed. The stuff might look spectacular by itself, but might not do a thing once mixed. :-)
the problem we are having with the new engines is they run hotter and they are carbon packing killing the piston rings if you can add anything that treats the metal that is an improvement but I understand your concerns I don't want to mess with anything that will cause damage over time, Motorkote is the only product that I have seen that works and lives up to it's claims, I have tested a lot of other products that change the Viscosity of the oil - which you think would be good BUT it could prevent the oil from getting where it is needed most. Motorkote is using the oil as a vehicle to treat the metal reducing the friction, the way I use Motorkote is I get an PM oil change after everything is done I add 1/3 of a gallon on top the oil - I only add Motorkote every other oil change.
Lots of snake oil sales out there. This may be a long term engine life improver but as you stated, it doesn't say that. I really enjoy you videos and appreciate the hands on testing that cuts to the basics!
You are welcome!
Yea I’ve ran Mos2 in all my cars, and it does reduce engine noise , which I think relates to friction.
I generally run Castrol 5-30, MoS2 and I run a full tank of shell premium and engine runs smooth as butter
Thanks for sharing.
Good video. I appreciate that you pointed out that there may be better ways to test this product and that different running environments might produce different results. That's the scientific way..."under the circumstances applied"... Love your videos!
Thank you!
I think these things are a scam. Anything that says "Increases fuel economy" and is a product major car manufacturer's are NOT already using, especially when it comes in a $5.00 can is total BS. Car companies are going all out to squeeze every MPG they can to put that into their sales pitch. If this stuff worked, it would be OEM.
Thanks for commenting.
You are absolutely correct 100%. Those companies have so much competition that even a 1% increase anywhere and they would all be doing it.
yep , magnets of fuel lines, spiral things that went inside carbs, and then moly on oil, slick 50 went out of business as they were proved they were false claims, but others still persist. they already put the good stuff in the oil, thats the job of the oil company, they know their job
Open Roader but there's a chance that it does but its not cost effective
I agree it's likely a cost effective thing. For example, ruclips.net/video/0x1546Jetjs/видео.html in his dura lube video it did seem to make a small positive difference from that single test.
MoS2 is the last thing amongst all the additives that I would have considered as snake oil.
Personally, I had great results with MoS2, but with a different product. I used Molykote MoS2 20W50 motor oil from 40 years ago, that stuff is no longer produced. Worked great in my vintage air cooled engines. They ran sgnificantly quieter and smoother with that oil, had increased compression, and worn, scared surfaces got smoothed out visibly. Those are the only factors I care about, I didn´t test fuel efficiency or power.
Thanks for the feedback.
👍 for all your work.
I would like you to test the following:-
1). Cracked windscreen repair kits
2). Scratch removal from glass products
3). Which oil is best for VW aircooled engines
4). Engine flush products
5). Do neodymium magnets on an oil filter help
Thank you
You are welcome! Thanks for the the video ideas.