WATCH THE NEXT VIDEO IN THE SERIES TO SEE THE VALVE COVER OFF... I've gotten 5 million comments about this and have responded to all of them, but they keep coming. The engine was flawless inside, just like it has been every time I run Dynamic.
BG brought back my '04 Silverado's 5.3 from almost 300k miles with cracked heads. Boiled off dexcool formed a sludge in the oil, engine was a mess. Zero oil pressure. We changed heads and ran high quality oil 800 miles for 3 changes in a row. Would still knock loose larger sludge and clog pick up tube. Decided to give it one more shot with BG. At the final flush it came out clean. Engine is sparkly clean and truck has since run 20k miles trouble free with perfect oil pressure. I'm a believer, BG is solid.
I'm not criticizing anyone. The gentleman knows his business, but having spun my share of oil plugs.... The electric ratchet had me on the edge of my seat. hehe
Whats the point of going through all that and not pulling off the valve cover in the end to see the end result...?! Should’ve left the old valve cover gasket then changed it after the test.. 😖
He should have pulled it off to see and show it and just put it back on. If it was leaking again, order another one. Maybe he would have got lucky and it would have been fine when put back on with the same (new ) gasket
FYI: regular Wix filters are better than their XPs. The regular ones filter down to a finer micron level. The XP ones sacrifice some efficiency for the ability to do long drain intervals. Unless you’re doing extended OCIs, the regular Wix filter is better.
@@g_unit6773 it's true. They leave the passages in the extended filters bigger so they don't clog up over the long OCI and prevent proper oil flow through the filter.
I use the regular for the same reason, plus I do oil changes at 3000 or less miles. I have seen a lot of forum's talking about the xp filters and how they aren't as good.
If it was me, I'd pull the oil pan and clean it, and especially clean the oil pickup screen. Not all that solidified sludge will have dissolved to be filtered out, and if enough of it ends up in the pickup screen, its goodbye engine!
FYI, scantools can do more than just check/clear codes, they can also command RPM using special functions so you don't have to jam a 2x4 into your nice seat
Sad to see a newer car treated like this. I think the BG products are excellent. Reminds me of when I bought a used 1979 Celica GT in 1987 to drive back and forth to work. The original owner had done 3 or 4 oil changes in 8 years. Surprisingly the car ran pretty good. The 20R engine was bullet proof. A trusted old mechanic told me what to do to clear some of the sludge. I drained the oil, changed the oil filter, added 2 quarts cheap oil and 3 quarts of transmission fluid. I drove it around for a couple of hours, not revving the engine. Drained the oil and was amazed at the chunks of sludge that came out. I did this once more in a month. I ran cheap oil in the car for the next 3 years. I was told that ATF had high levels of detergents. In 1990 I traded it in for a new Isuzu pickup. Keep the content coming!
@@Thekidsinafrica14 Yep. Leaves the engine squeaky-clean inside... it's a great solvent, especially if you let it sit in there for a few hours after turning the engine over a few times. Flush it twice, and it looks brand new.
Since you don't want to remove the valve cover again for obvious reasons, why not remove the oil pan since it needs to be resealed anyways? You could show the current sludge or possibly do it at the next oil change? Good content!
@@Z7691-g1c I was wondering that same thing. I have a 2013 Dart, and I would be er let it set running at 3000 rpms for 45 minutes. Sounds like trouble to me.
Order a valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket. When it comes back from rental, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Then we get to see the results on a delayed basis.
I had an old Nova that I never changed the oil on. Just added oil when needed. Eventually, the oil return passages clogged up and I had to do something. We pulled the rocker arm cover and manually removed as much sludge as possible. I then added a quart of diesel fuel to the oil. The car smoked like a banshee for an hour. Then I changed the oil and filter. The car ran for another few years with no problem.
My dad had a Dodge Omni that got to that point. Added a quart of the thinnest oil he could get once every 2 months. When the car finally crapped out on him after 7 or 8 years (clutch failure), we pulled the engine out and it was surprisingly clean inside. A couple of oil changes while it was on a stand and it went into his buddy’s dune buggy with a Getrag 5 speed and a 2 barrel Weber carb.
I remember being told to slowly pour ATF into the running carb on my ‘71 Torino. It smoked so badly you couldn’t see the car while it was running for like twenty minutes. A little embarrassing in the neighborhood when you’re 16. And stupid. It did free up a couple of collapsed lifters. Did nothing for the valve stem seals.
@@andrewhigdon8346 My dad was a mechanic and used to Spray ATF mixed with water into carburators to burn out carbon buildup. Sprayed it until motor would big down and then wait until rpm went back up. Said the added water would make it burn hot enough to remove the carbon. Had to know when it would actually help. With diesels you add ATF to gas to stop black smoke from exhaust when climbing hill's. Same idea. Removes carbon buildup on valves.
I empty half the oil then refill with diesel fuel, then go for a 5 mile drive. The old oil comes out much quicker and maybe drains more out. Must try ATF next time, even though I don't have an automatic, and will have to buy it in, just for the flush.
I wonder what oil the previous owner used and how long they went in between oil changes. I just did the valve cover gasket on our 14 year old Nissan Sentra with 145k on it and the top of the motor was squeaky clean at the corners, cam lobes and lifters. I'd buy the cheapest 5W30 conventional oil on sale (usually Castrol GTX or Supertech) and change it regularly. They must have really gone a long way between changes because cheap oil, once changed regularly, works great.
To be fair, those two drains he did were very dark. I wouldn't do this on a car with an engine in half decent condition though! Seems pretty severe, to run for over 1 hour at 3k RPM in neutral. Everything will get super hot under the hood without outside air flowing by.
The bg dynamic kit actually works incredibly well. It is very expensive though. We had to put an engine in one of our shop vehicles and the new to us engine was pretty sludged up. Used this kit and every little nook and crany looked brand new. I was very skeptical at first but after seeing that I'm a believer.
Excellent product... Something I do to minimize sludge buildup is to run Seafoam @ 500 km before my oil change. It seems to carry any sludge residue away and the engine looks awesome inside. I don't think Seafoam would accomplish what your product does when the engine is severely impacted with sludge.
Wow, you and I have the same recipe. I Have been doing this for years... one ounce of sea foam per quart of oil in the crank case, and one ounce of sea foam for every gallon of fuel in my tank. The Silverado 5.3 V8 is a 6 quart system, and my tank is 25 gallons, so 2 cans of sea foam at 16 ounces is perfect ( the additional ounce goes in the fuel). I have 260k miles on the truck and had the oil pan off recently to reseal it... it is nearly spotless inside. I am a true believer in Sea Foam! It's a great fuel stabilizer for motorcycles and lawn mowers too.
You should be able to change the units on your Autel to SAE in the settings menu. I have a similar scanner and was able to do it while it was connected to my computer for a printout.
This was really cool. I bought a 2015 Dart GT in 2016, I've owned it since it had 62 miles on the odometer. It's been very reliable, though I will have to address some coolant leaks soon. I'm really not looking forward to that. I'm not sure if there is a lot of differences between the 2.0 and 2.4 when it comes to the cooling system, but my car has hoses all over as if it were an early 90's car with vacuum hoses. I's crazy complex.
We have a yard-truck at work that routinely goes 10k over on mileage for an oil change and spends most of the night sitting idling. Hate to think how bad that is inside. I will give it to Ford, that thing has been neglected but still going with 243k on the clock.
I try it the epr in my 2015 Camry which I used for lyft before i stop doing it. I have the 2.5 but 2018 I didn’t move my car all year I was using public transportation since I was working in San Francisco but when I run my car on the weekends it burn oil. I used the liquimoly flush which worked amazing to clean the burned oil and in November I try the epr and my oil came close to when he did the second flush and smelled horrible too but my engine runs like new and is quiet. Before it had little ticking noise
Bought a 96 1mzfe Camry collector edition. Had so much sludge you couldn't even pour oil in the filler cap. I removed a glob of sludge from the fill hole. I didn't even need to know what the valve train looked like. I changed the oil to syn blend. Used tranny fluid 1 qt gradually. Marvel mystery oil second oil change. No clogged pick up tube but smoke on start up after sitting. Figuring I had not so much to loose I used diesel oil 15w40, we live in Florida. Went back to conventional oil. Big difference. Gradually cleaned the valve train. Still burns oil and smokes, but that black sludge color would go away. The Toyota V6 even 1996 ones are known sludgers. Short stop and go trips promote sludge as oil does not get hot enough to evaporate the moisture produced by the combustion process.lack of oil changes and a engine that runs too warm.
After watching your Camaro video with BG, I used their EPR on my 1958 IH tractor. After the EPR and a fresh change with Rotella it runs like a sewing machine!
@@justinsane7128 my local O'Reilly's price matches if you show them the Walmart price on your phone. I've been using straight SAE30 in this old girl (T1)
I have used some Marvel Mystery Oil in the past to good success. Like with Sticky lifters. Put a half quart or so in a few hundred miles before you change your oil Just make sure you don't overfill the sump. Of course, I never had a Sludge situation, as I change oil at regular intervals.
I used the small cleaner can from BG on my 03 Camry with 285K. It didn't have sludge at all but wanted to have cleaner oil what a difference. I am sold
Before I change the oil on any engine, I always let them run 15 minutes with 1 L Diesel in the engine oil. It cost 1$ and the engine is clean! My experience and what I learnt from my grandfather 40 years ago.
This is great to see. Just ordered the BG EPR 109 as managed to clean a lot of crap from my 2ZZ GE (previous owner neglected it) with a few previous flushes (Forte/Liquid Moly). But going to use the BG EPR before going this route and hopefully I won't have to. But 3000/5000/1 year mile oil changes I believe are the way to go, despite what manufacturers claim is the correct oil change miles, to minimize sludge and prolong the life of the engine.
I like ATS/Chemical 505 CRO oil system treatment, it removes tough sludge and it takes less time than your treatment, plus they have a fuel treatment .
I use my proprietary solution called Turbofield Nano Treatment which cleans up the sludge and seals the micro pores and does not allow new deposits . Engine clean like polished mirror for ever . Additionally minimal friction ,heat,vibration heat wear and tear and minimal emissions. Get hyper compression sealing as well
As a kid of the 70s and 80s, that level of sludge is for amateurs. Good old malaise era engines seemed to have that much sludge installed at the factory.
@@stuartbear922 that's why cars from then will still run after sitting in a field for 10 years if you did that with any new electronically controlled car you wouldn't get 2 years of sitting time before things fail on them
Yeah, now it's beautiful inside, but I doubt it runs any different. The problem [as he stated] with cleaning this garbage out of an engine is that you run the risk of a blob of gunk coming loose and blocking an oil passage, resulting in a destroyed bearing. In many cases, it is probably better to leave well enough alone.
this is also my personal opinion as well. I would ask "why" the engine is this bad? was it from bad service intervals? is it a bad PCV system not venting the vapors fast enough to allow them to condense on the cooler parts of the engine? I am half tempted to take the rocker covers off my cargo van's engine. it has 468000 on it, and has run amsoil OE 5w-30 since I bought it at 110000. the first few changes, the oil came out just muddy black, but after that, it mostly came out clean and dark, not dirty. It was changed every 10k. I am curious what it looks like inside, because it still makes 30 pounds of oil pressure hot, and over 60psi cold.
Interesting product. I have also heard that a quart of ATF also dissolves the sludge. But, it might change the viscosity of the oil which could cause problems with seals and such. So this product must have the same viscosity and yet have powerful dissolving agents.
Modern ATF doesn't do squat as a flush, it's essentially 0W-8 or 0W-16 motor oil made with severely hydroprocesed mineral bases that are effectively "dry" base oils with less additives than motor oil, ATF was once useable as a flush because it contained sperm whale oil which is an ester oil and naphthenic oil which has a good deal of solvency, modern transmission oil is using either grp 2+ or grp. 3 mineral oil bases, or some expensive botique oils or HD truck fluids like Allison TES-295 may contain PAOs but these are all really dry base oils and don't have much solvency, ATF really doesn't need to have any detergency because it doesn't deal with combustion contaminants.
After the BG service, I’d do an oil change with cheap synthetic and run it for 5 miles and change again. I’d keep doing it until the oil is clean when drained. Then add Amsoil.
So this is the result of not changing the oil every 5K? Is that a $200 treatment? I'm taking off oil pan and cleaning the whole inside and pickup screen too. Old timers used to run a bottle of Marvel mystery oil for upper cylinder lubrication.
Were you using quaker state motor oil in your car when it was full of sludge ? I only ask because I have heard about that brand of oil causing major sludge problems before.
Why do we never see exhaust ventilation tubes in working garages anymore? As long as that car was running indoors I would think the carbon monoxide buildup would be significant. Didn’t garages used to have suction tubes to hook over the exhaust pipes to vent it outside the building?
I want to be that guy. Hopefully by now you learn the correct way to do an oil change. When you drain the oil, make sure you take off the oil fill cap because of the vacuum. Also always apply new oil on the filter o-ring and you always fill up the new filter so you don't get dry start.
I would change it in 2000 and another tip to push the dirt out of the bottom of your pan is to make sure it's perfectly level and keep a cheap quart around regardless of what anyone else says heavy or metallic particles are going to go to the bottom and not stay suspended
I watched the wizard flush Tyler’s Maserati. There was no before and after. Just the fact he said it would work when a lot of people say don’t. What I’ve noticed is both these programs flushed relatively late model cars, so no worries with old seals. So hell yeah, if you bought what seems to be a decent late model used car, I would have no fear of flushing the engine either , and the BG was quick 👍
Wow, i have that same tool for holding down the gas/brake pedal when needed, work's like a charm. I bet 100% jake has this same tool on a budget, from all the comments that he makes about building up his tool collection. Liqui moly work's well to, m539 restoration used it on one of his bmw's, and it cleaned it really well. I use the bg 44k on my kia soul because the dgi engine's need the cleaning solution to keep them from using oil from all the deposits. I bought a case of 12 kia filters to be able to use the bg product's, and the moa. My car only has 7200 miles since i bought it new in april of 2019, could have gotten the 2020 for the same price, but i hated the body style change which now looks like any other mid size suv. Hope this car gives you many more rental trips.
Liquimoly and BG are amazing totally worth it. Liquimoly help to solve my oil consumption of my 2015 Camry 2.5 EPR worked amazing in my dad Escalade 6.2 notorious for oil burning save the oil pressure sensor life lol
@julio, I am glad someone else knows how well this stuff work's. The dgi engine's get dirty and carbon up the valve's, which then causes oil consumption, but these product's clean well, restore oil pressure, and stop oil consumption as you said. On my new kia soul, i used this right away, because i don't want a nasty sludged up oil using mess in the engine lol. God bless.
All Chrysler vehicles jeep and dodge have oil pressure on dash board display no need for scanner 👌and you can change metric setting to standard on display too
I've seen worse in Pennsylvania. I was told Pensoil uses a paraffin base which causes the build-up of sludge. We drained the oil, then overfilled the engine with kerosene, and ran it for 15 minutes. We drained it, and did it again. Then we ran the engine on type-f ATF. After draining that we filled it with regular engine oil. Nowadays we just use diesel fuel because it's cheaper.
This is a good test since its going to be rented. I want to see how many miles can be put on a car like this. I also believe any car rented on a third party app like Turo should be a branded title car with only one rental.
Change oil on regular basis. But if need to clean add some Kerosene to the oil and idle for 10 minutes. Drain oil- replace and replace filter. Change oil and filter twice. Do every 15k miles. Super clean.
I have Nissan Altima 2016 and got it in 2019 used and haven’t got oil changed since then so it built up sledge , dealer ship told me it’s a complete lost and should be looking for a another car or saving up for a used Engine . I really want to try this as a last resort do you can completely trust this Product
Next time you want to show this process......how about running the BG engine cleaning with the ORIGINAL valve cover gaskets and then you can inspect the end results when you remove the valve covers to replace the gasket and button it up. These end-to-end service/repair videos are great. Good job.
I was happy to see you run that product thru the engine. It was nice they sent you some free product. Were you not worried about all the exhaust in the shop? Or did you vace a solution for that we could not see?
He does this all the time though usually not for this long. I think he operate on the "there's enough air in this massive warehouse" principle, but I wonder too.
Just do your oil changes on time. If it’s 5000 every oil change do it 4000 miles. I’ve seen a lot of videos only in America why don’t people believe in oil changes it’s crazy
What gloves are you buying? Since the harbor freight 7mil have gone from $7 to $29 I’m in the market for something new. Like those orange for visibility when working.
Indeed. Seems unnecessarily dangerous. On many cars you can just bump the shifter from Neutral to Drive, too. Sometimes it happens while adjusting a random 2x4 in the footwell. Probably not fun at 3000 RPM.
Awwwww you are making so many of us happy. A great debate ensued that you couldn't clean it out and I'm said you could because you did it before with the Camaro and the other car, the Sky,I think. I guess they were newer subscribers. I know what I'm talking about, I've been a loooooooong time subscriber. I've seen the miracles.
If you want to kick it up a notch for a new video is to try "Gumout Tuneup" which has a higher concentration of PEA which is proven to clean internal combustion engines in lab tests. It is a improved version of Seafoam and other products.
WATCH THE NEXT VIDEO IN THE SERIES TO SEE THE VALVE COVER OFF... I've gotten 5 million comments about this and have responded to all of them, but they keep coming. The engine was flawless inside, just like it has been every time I run Dynamic.
Show us the bottom end with the oil pan off. Just take this video down. It’s terrible. Waste of time and life
Is this the after? ruclips.net/video/8sMzOiYezfk/видео.html
Minor correction, your Dart is a 2013, not a 2011. 😉 I hope you enjoy your Rallye.
The lack of before and after images of *this particular engine* is a disappointment.
That would make too much sense
The magic of opening and closing the hood. Bam
Agreed
I was about to make this comment.
It is not a disappointment it says a lot about asking chemicals to fix an engine
BG brought back my '04 Silverado's 5.3 from almost 300k miles with cracked heads. Boiled off dexcool formed a sludge in the oil, engine was a mess. Zero oil pressure. We changed heads and ran high quality oil 800 miles for 3 changes in a row. Would still knock loose larger sludge and clog pick up tube. Decided to give it one more shot with BG. At the final flush it came out clean. Engine is sparkly clean and truck has since run 20k miles trouble free with perfect oil pressure. I'm a believer, BG is solid.
Bullshit
320k miles on the original engine?
If the oil drain bolt is dripping, you don't fix this by tightening the bolt tighter. You install a new crush washer to stop the leaking.
I'm not criticizing anyone. The gentleman knows his business, but having spun my share of oil plugs....
The electric ratchet had me on the edge of my seat. hehe
The drain plug doesn't have a crush washer. New MOPAR drain plugs have a rubber insert which is not replaceable.
@@thunderods7228 Not just Mopar. Most USA companies have switched to that. Ford, GM, Dodge, etc.
@@thunderods7228 then just get a new drain plug? $5 maybe $10?
@@thunderods7228 🤣
Whats the point of going through all that and not pulling off the valve cover in the end to see the end result...?! Should’ve left the old valve cover gasket then changed it after the test.. 😖
I don't think the sludge problem was known until they took the cover off in the first place.
He should have pulled it off to see and show it and just put it back on. If it was leaking again, order another one. Maybe he would have got lucky and it would have been fine when put back on with the same (new ) gasket
He didn't know about the sludge problem until he went to do the valve cover gasket.
No kidding! 🙄
WHO gave those likes???😮 10 k?
I'm sure BG would sponsor that gasket if you showed the endproduct....
FYI: regular Wix filters are better than their XPs. The regular ones filter down to a finer micron level. The XP ones sacrifice some efficiency for the ability to do long drain intervals. Unless you’re doing extended OCIs, the regular Wix filter is better.
Are you certain about this? What are numbers/microns? I do know that regular vs XP uses different filter material so this does seem plausible
@@g_unit6773 it's true. They leave the passages in the extended filters bigger so they don't clog up over the long OCI and prevent proper oil flow through the filter.
I use the regular for the same reason, plus I do oil changes at 3000 or less miles. I have seen a lot of forum's talking about the xp filters and how they aren't as good.
I believe its 20 micron for the normal and 30 for the XP
@Truth Teller post a video!
If it was me, I'd pull the oil pan and clean it, and especially clean the oil pickup screen. Not all that solidified sludge will have dissolved to be filtered out, and if enough of it ends up in the pickup screen, its goodbye engine!
Blow this up! Exactly what i was thinking!!!
Not with that engine flush
Can’t do that, oil pan gasket is $50.
@@leinad20002 He said _valve_ gasket was $50 and RTV'd in. Don't know what the price is for oil pan gasket
@@leinad20002 Like he didn't make that from the income from the content? BS!
FYI, scantools can do more than just check/clear codes, they can also command RPM using special functions so you don't have to jam a 2x4 into your nice seat
Sad to see a newer car treated like this. I think the BG products are excellent. Reminds me of when I bought a used 1979 Celica GT in 1987 to drive back and forth to work. The original owner had done 3 or 4 oil changes in 8 years. Surprisingly the car ran pretty good. The 20R engine was bullet proof. A trusted old mechanic told me what to do to clear some of the sludge. I drained the oil, changed the oil filter, added 2 quarts cheap oil and 3 quarts of transmission fluid. I drove it around for a couple of hours, not revving the engine. Drained the oil and was amazed at the chunks of sludge that came out. I did this once more in a month. I ran cheap oil in the car for the next 3 years. I was told that ATF had high levels of detergents. In 1990 I traded it in for a new Isuzu pickup. Keep the content coming!
On that Autel scanner, you can pull down that tab on top of the screen to go to the setting menu and change the units from metric to imperial.
The best way to clean sludge out of your engine is to change the oil often enough so you don't get sludge to build up.
A better faster way is to run diesel in it. It’ll keep everything lubricated and still break down all the sludge
@@Thekidsinafrica14 Yep. Leaves the engine squeaky-clean inside... it's a great solvent, especially if you let it sit in there for a few hours after turning the engine over a few times. Flush it twice, and it looks brand new.
You'll be saying goodbye to your rubber stem seals if you do that
@@Vyker Who the heck uses rubber anymore, especially inside an engine? All neoprene these days, as far as I know.
The topic is after the fact Mr. Obvious
Since you don't want to remove the valve cover again for obvious reasons, why not remove the oil pan since it needs to be resealed anyways? You could show the current sludge or possibly do it at the next oil change? Good content!
Snake Oil. There is nothing worse than a RUclips channel selling chemicals you can put in your car promising miracles.
@@Z7691-g1c I was wondering that same thing. I have a 2013 Dart, and I would be er let it set running at 3000 rpms for 45 minutes. Sounds like trouble to me.
@@Z7691-g1c It's not snake oil and it actually works. I've used it personally.
Seems like letting a car run at 3000rpm for 45 mins with no airflow isnt the brughtest choice, i agree. @charlesbosse9669
Order a valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket. When it comes back from rental, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Then we get to see the results on a delayed basis.
I had an old Nova that I never changed the oil on. Just added oil when needed. Eventually, the oil return passages clogged up and I had to do something. We pulled the rocker arm cover and manually removed as much sludge as possible. I then added a quart of diesel fuel to the oil. The car smoked like a banshee for an hour. Then I changed the oil and filter. The car ran for another few years with no problem.
My neighbor's grandpa smoked until he was 94, so there is that too.
My dad had a Dodge Omni that got to that point. Added a quart of the thinnest oil he could get once every 2 months.
When the car finally crapped out on him after 7 or 8 years (clutch failure), we pulled the engine out and it was surprisingly clean inside. A couple of oil changes while it was on a stand and it went into his buddy’s dune buggy with a Getrag 5 speed and a 2 barrel Weber carb.
I remember being told to slowly pour ATF into the running carb on my ‘71 Torino. It smoked so badly you couldn’t see the car while it was running for like twenty minutes. A little embarrassing in the neighborhood when you’re 16. And stupid. It did free up a couple of collapsed lifters. Did nothing for the valve stem seals.
That was older diesel formula, new stuff is not as slippery.
@@andrewhigdon8346 My dad was a mechanic and used to Spray ATF mixed with water into carburators to burn out carbon buildup. Sprayed it until motor would big down and then wait until rpm went back up. Said the added water would make it burn hot enough to remove the carbon. Had to know when it would actually help. With diesels you add ATF to gas to stop black smoke from exhaust when climbing hill's. Same idea. Removes carbon buildup on valves.
I just add a quart of kerosene when I changed the old, sludgy oil. Run it for 30 minutes, drain. Change oil and filter. Worked like a charm.
Yep or a qt of ATF...
old school way but works great, My pop taught me that in the 1990,s....
I empty half the oil then refill with diesel fuel, then go for a 5 mile drive. The old oil comes out much quicker and maybe drains more out. Must try ATF next time, even though I don't have an automatic, and will have to buy it in, just for the flush.
I wonder what oil the previous owner used and how long they went in between oil changes. I just did the valve cover gasket on our 14 year old Nissan Sentra with 145k on it and the top of the motor was squeaky clean at the corners, cam lobes and lifters. I'd buy the cheapest 5W30 conventional oil on sale (usually Castrol GTX or Supertech) and change it regularly. They must have really gone a long way between changes because cheap oil, once changed regularly, works great.
Kind of curious, what that old filter looks like cut open. With all that sludge moving around.
I’m sure me and others would like to see the rocker cover back off….to see if the sludge has gone 🤔
I’m sure the results aren’t nearly as good as BG wants you to believe. The small amount of sludge that was removed is now in the oil pan.
I know right?
To be fair, those two drains he did were very dark. I wouldn't do this on a car with an engine in half decent condition though! Seems pretty severe, to run for over 1 hour at 3k RPM in neutral. Everything will get super hot under the hood without outside air flowing by.
No after pics don't like
The bg dynamic kit actually works incredibly well. It is very expensive though. We had to put an engine in one of our shop vehicles and the new to us engine was pretty sludged up. Used this kit and every little nook and crany looked brand new. I was very skeptical at first but after seeing that I'm a believer.
I’m deeply disappointed that you didn’t take the valve cover off to show us the result. 😢
Go watch the Camaro video!
@@frostyflake1128. I did- when it came out. I wanted to see this particular engine.
@@sheputthelimeinthecoconut629 that's fair
He did state that a new seal was very expensive. Makes sense to me.
Scam!
You need an exhaust extraction system for your shop.
Any other ... "recommendations" ?? Ehhh?
Are fumes just going into the garage with no hose ?
Keep the DART going, it is the bread and butter of the fleet. Wow, wearing his own merch, should have been sponsored by BG
definitely running well for FCA product
awww come on, was looking forward to seeing that valve cover off...
Excellent product... Something I do to minimize sludge buildup is to run Seafoam @ 500 km before my oil change. It seems to carry any sludge residue away and the engine looks awesome inside. I don't think Seafoam would accomplish what your product does when the engine is severely impacted with sludge.
Wow, you and I have the same recipe. I Have been doing this for years... one ounce of sea foam per quart of oil in the crank case, and one ounce of sea foam for every gallon of fuel in my tank. The Silverado 5.3 V8 is a 6 quart system, and my tank is 25 gallons, so 2 cans of sea foam at 16 ounces is perfect ( the additional ounce goes in the fuel). I have 260k miles on the truck and had the oil pan off recently to reseal it... it is nearly spotless inside. I am a true believer in Sea Foam! It's a great fuel stabilizer for motorcycles and lawn mowers too.
*2011 lmao, twice JR, you made the same mistake twice. Thank you for the laughs. Love you man.
You should be able to change the units on your Autel to SAE in the settings menu. I have a similar scanner and was able to do it while it was connected to my computer for a printout.
Or he can learn the metric units.
1 bar = 100kPa
10 psi = 0.7 bar
It's not very difficult.
@@taunuslunatic404 Fuck metric units, we use freedom units around here
@@lunisce 😆
@@lunisce Unless you’re in the military, then you use metric. Does that mean metric keeps you free?
Use the borescope through the oil filler to see inside the valve covers
I don't know why but I love watching the BG engine clean videos.
Wondering if there was any change in oil pressure after the clean, also film the next service!
This was really cool. I bought a 2015 Dart GT in 2016, I've owned it since it had 62 miles on the odometer. It's been very reliable, though I will have to address some coolant leaks soon. I'm really not looking forward to that. I'm not sure if there is a lot of differences between the 2.0 and 2.4 when it comes to the cooling system, but my car has hoses all over as if it were an early 90's car with vacuum hoses. I's crazy complex.
Whoa whoa whoa. I waited all the way till the end just to see that valve cover come off. 😂 come on taking that cover off is RUclips content.
I love that you almost always work on cars without getting filthy :) that's true talent!
-talent-
*fake*
Fixed that for ya
@@camojoe83 😂
We have a yard-truck at work that routinely goes 10k over on mileage for an oil change and spends most of the night sitting idling. Hate to think how bad that is inside. I will give it to Ford, that thing has been neglected but still going with 243k on the clock.
Would like to see this tested on a 2002-2006 Toyota Camry 2.4L with gummed up piston rings and see if it stops smoke and oil usage!
Why? So they last another 300,000 miles? Lol
I try it the epr in my 2015 Camry which I used for lyft before i stop doing it.
I have the 2.5 but 2018 I didn’t move my car all year I was using public transportation since I was working in San Francisco but when I run my car on the weekends it burn oil. I used the liquimoly flush which worked amazing to clean the burned oil and in November I try the epr and my oil came close to when he did the second flush and smelled horrible too but my engine runs like new and is quiet. Before it had little ticking noise
Just FYI you don't have to put a automatic transmission in neutral through the engine up. Park works just fine.
BG know their stuff. They must hire the MIT top 2% of the class.
Lol bg is acid
Bought a 96 1mzfe Camry collector edition. Had so much sludge you couldn't even pour oil in the filler cap. I removed a glob of sludge from the fill hole. I didn't even need to know what the valve train looked like. I changed the oil to syn blend. Used tranny fluid 1 qt gradually. Marvel mystery oil second oil change. No clogged pick up tube but smoke on start up after sitting. Figuring I had not so much to loose I used diesel oil 15w40, we live in Florida. Went back to conventional oil. Big difference. Gradually cleaned the valve train. Still burns oil and smokes, but that black sludge color would go away. The Toyota V6 even 1996 ones are known sludgers. Short stop and go trips promote sludge as oil does not get hot enough to evaporate the moisture produced by the combustion process.lack of oil changes and a engine that runs too warm.
How does it get like that in the first place? Lack of oil changes?
After watching your Camaro video with BG, I used their EPR on my 1958 IH tractor. After the EPR and a fresh change with Rotella it runs like a sewing machine!
I've been to four Walmarts in the last few weeks and there is no t6 rotella anywhere in Colorado
@@justinsane7128 my local O'Reilly's price matches if you show them the Walmart price on your phone. I've been using straight SAE30 in this old girl (T1)
from your videos on the BG product, i am currently running the same in my sante fe
I have used some Marvel Mystery Oil in the past to good success. Like with Sticky lifters. Put a half quart or so in a few hundred miles before you change your oil Just make sure you don't overfill the sump. Of course, I never had a Sludge situation, as I change oil at regular intervals.
I used the small cleaner can from BG on my 03 Camry with 285K. It didn't have sludge at all but wanted to have cleaner oil what a difference. I am sold
Before I change the oil on any engine, I always let them run 15 minutes with 1 L Diesel in the engine oil. It cost 1$ and the engine is clean! My experience and what I learnt from my grandfather 40 years ago.
Do u add to the oil already in there, do u take some oil out first? Or do u empty it and then add deisel to an empty engine?
@@finishhim1019I add it. No problem, for 15 minutes.
Next oil change in 3000 miles change the oil pan plug crush washer. Make this a habit and you'll save yourself a headache.
Cool video but why go from park to neutral each time? I don't understand
This is great to see. Just ordered the BG EPR 109 as managed to clean a lot of crap from my 2ZZ GE (previous owner neglected it) with a few previous flushes (Forte/Liquid Moly). But going to use the BG EPR before going this route and hopefully I won't have to. But 3000/5000/1 year mile oil changes I believe are the way to go, despite what manufacturers claim is the correct oil change miles, to minimize sludge and prolong the life of the engine.
I like ATS/Chemical 505 CRO oil system treatment, it removes tough sludge and it takes less time than your treatment, plus they have a fuel treatment .
I use my proprietary solution called Turbofield Nano Treatment which cleans up the sludge and seals the micro pores and does not allow new deposits .
Engine clean like polished mirror for ever .
Additionally minimal friction ,heat,vibration heat wear and tear and minimal emissions. Get hyper compression sealing as well
As a kid of the 70s and 80s, that level of sludge is for amateurs. Good old malaise era engines seemed to have that much sludge installed at the factory.
In the 70s & 80s we traded cars at 50k miles. They were that bad. Getting 100k miles out of one was unheard of.
@@stuartbear922 that's why cars from then will still run after sitting in a field for 10 years if you did that with any new electronically controlled car you wouldn't get 2 years of sitting time before things fail on them
@@stuartbear922
78 Cutlass Supreme, little V8, 120k reliable miles for me
Yeah, now it's beautiful inside, but I doubt it runs any different.
The problem [as he stated] with cleaning this garbage out of an engine is that you run the risk of a blob of gunk coming loose and blocking an oil passage, resulting in a destroyed bearing. In many cases, it is probably better to leave well enough alone.
this is also my personal opinion as well. I would ask "why" the engine is this bad? was it from bad service intervals? is it a bad PCV system not venting the vapors fast enough to allow them to condense on the cooler parts of the engine? I am half tempted to take the rocker covers off my cargo van's engine. it has 468000 on it, and has run amsoil OE 5w-30 since I bought it at 110000. the first few changes, the oil came out just muddy black, but after that, it mostly came out clean and dark, not dirty. It was changed every 10k. I am curious what it looks like inside, because it still makes 30 pounds of oil pressure hot, and over 60psi cold.
I feel like this treatment should be run at least twice. Might be a lot of money, but still cheaper than blowing the engine.
Interesting product. I have also heard that a quart of ATF also dissolves the sludge. But, it might change the viscosity of the oil which could cause problems with seals and such. So this product must have the same viscosity and yet have powerful dissolving agents.
Modern ATF doesn't do squat as a flush, it's essentially 0W-8 or 0W-16 motor oil made with severely hydroprocesed mineral bases that are effectively "dry" base oils with less additives than motor oil, ATF was once useable as a flush because it contained sperm whale oil which is an ester oil and naphthenic oil which has a good deal of solvency, modern transmission oil is using either grp 2+ or grp. 3 mineral oil bases, or some expensive botique oils or HD truck fluids like Allison TES-295 may contain PAOs but these are all really dry base oils and don't have much solvency, ATF really doesn't need to have any detergency because it doesn't deal with combustion contaminants.
You really need to get some lisle no splatter pads for your oil drains. Game changer. Cheap and worth 10x the money
I see those, really do need them
Diy Dave used this on his 2002 Corolla and it did nothing! He did actual testing and showed with a bore scope!
LOVED “Que pasa vato” that means that guy remembers you and cares about you
I've always used diesel 50/50 mix with cheapskate oil as a flush, never had a problem in 45 years.
Even on new engines?
@@connorb9097 Nah, only once they're around 6 years plus.
After the BG service, I’d do an oil change with cheap synthetic and run it for 5 miles and change again. I’d keep doing it until the oil is clean when drained. Then add Amsoil.
Would it just by changing with amsoil and draining it earlier then recommended and again fill with amsoil
Looks like a real success. My Jeep has a 5.7 hemi that I will try the BG MOA to keep the MDS system clean since I did an oil flush already.
Does your shop have a ventilation system? I would have done this outside.
It's too cold to even walk outside, it was like 9* that day 🍻
@@WatchJRGo Well it'll keep the beers ice cold at least :)
If you dislike funnels, the pour spout on a DEF jug fits a ton of different oil, af, cleaners, atf, and other fluids.
So this is the result of not changing the oil every 5K? Is that a $200 treatment? I'm taking off oil pan and cleaning the whole inside and pickup screen too. Old timers used to run a bottle of Marvel mystery oil for upper cylinder lubrication.
Were you using quaker state motor oil in your car when it was full of sludge ? I only ask because I have heard about that brand of oil causing major sludge problems before.
I bought it like 4 days before this
Why do we never see exhaust ventilation tubes in working garages anymore? As long as that car was running indoors I would think the carbon monoxide buildup would be significant. Didn’t garages used to have suction tubes to hook over the exhaust pipes to vent it outside the building?
Good question! I reckon cars burn so cleanly it's not an issue. There's enough cubic feet of open space and ventilation.
they’re still a thing i use them at work all the time but i’m guessing it was overlooked or skipped due to cost when they set their building up
@@stuartbear922 "burning clean" won’t help anything, you’re still producing carbon monoxide
The shop is like standing in a draft, the giant fans don't seal at all 😬
@@WatchJRGo do you have CO detectors in the shop? Be careful!
Love these BG videos
Didn't know this was around. Thanks for this, it will help me out.
I want to be that guy. Hopefully by now you learn the correct way to do an oil change. When you drain the oil, make sure you take off the oil fill cap because of the vacuum. Also always apply new oil on the filter o-ring and you always fill up the new filter so you don't get dry start.
I would change it in 2000 and another tip to push the dirt out of the bottom of your pan is to make sure it's perfectly level and keep a cheap quart around regardless of what anyone else says heavy or metallic particles are going to go to the bottom and not stay suspended
info ,,,,, what kind of oil was used ,, miles ,,, oil changes .? till you got it ,,
Run the borescope thru the oil pan drain plug hole. So simple, appears you may fear what it would reveal.
When the valve cover is off do you take the opportunity the remove as much sludge as possible with tools and rags?
Just fyi you have sludge the damage is already done to late bearings,crankshaft,camshaft journals etc
I watched the wizard flush Tyler’s Maserati. There was no before and after. Just the fact he said it would work when a lot of people say don’t. What I’ve noticed is both these programs flushed relatively late model cars, so no worries with old seals. So hell yeah, if you bought what seems to be a decent late model used car, I would have no fear of flushing the engine either , and the BG was quick 👍
Wow, i have that same tool for holding down the gas/brake pedal when needed, work's like a charm. I bet 100% jake has this same tool on a budget, from all the comments that he makes about building up his tool collection. Liqui moly work's well to, m539 restoration used it on one of his bmw's, and it cleaned it really well. I use the bg 44k on my kia soul because the dgi engine's need the cleaning solution to keep them from using oil from all the deposits. I bought a case of 12 kia filters to be able to use the bg product's, and the moa. My car only has 7200 miles since i bought it new in april of 2019, could have gotten the 2020 for the same price, but i hated the body style change which now looks like any other mid size suv. Hope this car gives you many more rental trips.
Liquimoly and BG are amazing totally worth it.
Liquimoly help to solve my oil consumption of my 2015 Camry 2.5
EPR worked amazing in my dad Escalade 6.2 notorious for oil burning save the oil pressure sensor life lol
@julio, I am glad someone else knows how well this stuff work's. The dgi engine's get dirty and carbon up the valve's, which then causes oil consumption, but these product's clean well, restore oil pressure, and stop oil consumption as you said. On my new kia soul, i used this right away, because i don't want a nasty sludged up oil using mess in the engine lol. God bless.
All Chrysler vehicles jeep and dodge have oil pressure on dash board display no need for scanner 👌and you can change metric setting to standard on display too
When you saw the sludge, you should've just bolted the valve cover back on and saved the new gasket for this video!
Why is the dart sludging so much? Is due to no proper oil changes on time? Or is it because of the design if the engine itself?
I've seen worse in Pennsylvania. I was told Pensoil uses a paraffin base which causes the build-up of sludge. We drained the oil, then overfilled the engine with kerosene, and ran it for 15 minutes. We drained it, and did it again. Then we ran the engine on type-f ATF. After draining that we filled it with regular engine oil. Nowadays we just use diesel fuel because it's cheaper.
This is a good test since its going to be rented. I want to see how many miles can be put on a car like this. I also believe any car rented on a third party app like Turo should be a branded title car with only one rental.
What do you do if you’re doing a car that uses more than 5qts of oil? Do you mix oil with the cleaner and rinse?
Change oil on regular basis. But if need to clean add some Kerosene to the oil and idle for 10 minutes. Drain oil- replace and replace filter. Change oil and filter twice. Do every 15k miles. Super clean.
I have Nissan Altima 2016 and got it in 2019 used and haven’t got oil changed since then so it built up sledge , dealer ship told me it’s a complete lost and should be looking for a another car or saving up for a used Engine . I really want to try this as a last resort do you can completely trust this Product
Should have just did an oil change at least once a year...
So what type of oil were you running in this motor to cause such sludge?
Wondering why this would not work w trans in park
Many cars will limits rpms in park.
I have been a fan of BG products for years. It's cool that JR is within walking distance of their facility.
You could do with exhaust extraction system save filling shop with fumes
Especially with running the fucking thing that long at those RPMs. Damn!
I have a buick park avenue with 254000 miles on it think I can use all of these treatments without hurting my engine?
You know if you change your oil like you’re supposed to, you can avoid a sludge problem.
not possible when buying a used car
If the vehicle takes let's say 8 quarts and you fill it with the dynamic do you top off what's remaining with engine oil?
What are your thoughts on amsoil?
The pickup screen in the sump is the concern ... what is down there?
Next time you want to show this process......how about running the BG engine cleaning with the ORIGINAL valve cover gaskets and then you can inspect the end results when you remove the valve covers to replace the gasket and button it up. These end-to-end service/repair videos are great. Good job.
I was happy to see you run that product thru the engine. It was nice they sent you some free product. Were you not worried about all the exhaust in the shop? Or did you vace a solution for that we could not see?
He does this all the time though usually not for this long. I think he operate on the "there's enough air in this massive warehouse" principle, but I wonder too.
@@rpavlik1 he replied to another comment saying exactly this, lol
Just do your oil changes on time. If it’s 5000 every oil change do it 4000 miles.
I’ve seen a lot of videos only in America why don’t people believe in oil changes it’s crazy
What gloves are you buying? Since the harbor freight 7mil have gone from $7 to $29 I’m in the market for something new. Like those orange for visibility when working.
I'm curious why BG requires the car to be in neutral instead of park. Perhaps the car wouldn't throw that trans code if it was in park...?
Indeed. Seems unnecessarily dangerous. On many cars you can just bump the shifter from Neutral to Drive, too. Sometimes it happens while adjusting a random 2x4 in the footwell. Probably not fun at 3000 RPM.
Don’t Rev a car in park. Stresses it
What does it do too the gaskets and or reals. Also what about all the crap that gets stuck on the screen ?????
Awwwww you are making so many of us happy. A great debate ensued that you couldn't clean it out and I'm said you could because you did it before with the Camaro and the other car, the Sky,I think. I guess they were newer subscribers. I know what I'm talking about, I've been a loooooooong time subscriber. I've seen the miracles.
If you want to kick it up a notch for a new video is to try "Gumout Tuneup" which has a higher concentration of PEA which is proven to clean internal combustion engines in lab tests. It is a improved version of Seafoam and other products.
It’s good to have a shop, if I ran my engine at 3500 rpm on my driveway for 45 mins my neighbors would totally complain 😂
Someone would steal my car unless I sat in it for the whole time.
I may have missed it, but what causes all that sludge to begin with? Lack of maintainance, poor oil, low oil??? Thanks